Another senior beginner here. Thank you for your perspective on using MDF. I've seen a lot of talk about how bad MDF is. I was glad to see the perspective from someone actually successfully using it. I just bought MDF for my workbench today. I'm building a 2' x 4' bench and want a surface that is flat so I can build torsion boxes and assemble my work. The two biggest concerns seems to be that the edges chip off easily and the moister in the air, or spilled on the material, distort it and cause it to disintegrate. I've seen a number of people using it, and it was suggested that I build a border around the top. I have some red oak if I need to do that. Here we have three types of MDF I think I identified. The first is the melamine that is sandwiched between two veneer panels. The second is a lighter color that is considerably more dense than the melamine. The third is a dark color and is heavier and more dense than the lighter stuff. You appear to be using the cheaper, lighter stuff. I bought the more expensive version. The panel saw was out of order or I would have bought the 3/4 inch 4x8 sheet and had it cut. However, I can't carry it so I chose to get two 1/2 inch 2'x4' sheets and I'll double them up. I plan to mount T tracks inside the outer edges all the way around the top, and to have at least two tracks going across and/or down the length of the surface of the top. I'm glad to find you and subscribed. I'll see you again soon
Hi Buck, Thanks for the comment and Im pleased that you enjoyed the video. Ill be honest, we have never really had an issue with the edges getting damaged BUT if they do become damaged then it can be a bit of an uphill struggle to keep them from getting worse. I think the oak is a great idea, just make sure to only use screws or nails and no glue so you can remove it when/if you need to replace the top. 1" should be plenty thick enough for the top. As long as you laminate them with plenty of glue and fixings you should be golden. I like what you are doing with the tracks. Have you ever thought about using a MFT type system? They use bench dogs and they can be really great if used correctly, especially for clamping etc. Thanks for the kind words, I look forward to seeing you again on the channel!! Have a great day!
Exactly the information and advice I was looking for. You see all the videos for a $100 or $200 workbench then you see them use $20,000 worth of equipment and tools to make the darn thing. This is great advice to make a practical home shop workbench. I plan to make a sturdy frame and then take your advice and put an MDF top on it. Use and abuse it and when necessary replace the top. Thanks you so much. God bless.
Hey, that's awesome to hear and Im really glad it has helped you in your decision making. I know what you mean regarding the equipment. I try to make sure there is a cheap way to do things, especially if I use high priced kit in some of my videos otherwise it doesn't really help anyone. Let us know how you get on! Bless you too and have a great day!
I love the UK perspective. I never considered you guys on an island had less wood options but it obviously makes sense. Lucky for us across the pond can get birch plywood for when appears to be less of a increase than you have there. But I'm finding out that MDF is really a worthwhile option than most give it credit for. Your video sheds light to that and I appreciate that. Great video! I'm now subbed. Look forward to seeing what you have in your library and what is yet to come. Thanks!
Hey, thanks MJ. Yeah the wood availability can create some serious issues sometimes. Timber can be unbelievably expensive but it is what it is, its one of the reasons I like to work with sheet goods lol. MDF is a great option for a lot of work and it has its place, thats for sure. There are different options out there so we always go for Premier Medite or MR MDF as these seem to be more solid and its a lot easier to make furniture/jigs/benches with. Make sure to check out the video I made on MDF finishes, well worth a look if you are thinking of using it in the future. Thanks for the sub and comment by the way, always good to get feedback. Have an awesome day buddy 👍
Nice. I'm going to be building a nice new workbench very soon, so I think MDF is the best option for the top. If it gets badly damaged, just rip it off and put on a new one. Just checked the price and they are about NZ$64 for a 2440x1220x18mm sheet, or $34 for a 2400x600x18 (just buy 2 and glue them together, no cutting necessary). Basically about 35 pounds for the latter option.
Thanks David. Yeah that will work great and that's what we did for the workbench behind me. Just cut the sheet down the centre, glued and screwed it together. The thing is solid and weighs a ton. Just make sure to wax/varnish it and ensure its sealed well. £35 for a solid workbench top is a great price!
Thanks, really good to hear a UK perspective on this. After watching all the UA-cam channels out there I have been dying to use good quality ply but found it SO expensive. I have come to the conclusion to just use MDF for my shop fit out as it is the most cost effective. I wanted to use birch ply for house projects but now even thinking to use MDF and paint instead. As an individual i find purchasing timber in the UK a minefield and still haven’t found a decent source for timber. Prices can vary wildly between merchants and being new to woodworking I just don’t know what I’m going to get buying online. Most local merchants (in Scotland anyway) are focussed on the building trades so don’t even carry anything out of the ordinary building materials.
Hey, thanks for the comment. That was part of the original aim of the channel to be honest, to get more of a UK perspective so that's great to hear! MDF really is a great choice for cabinets and workbenches. If the environment is going to be a worry (wet/humid) then you can always go the MR MDF route and/or treat accordingly. A good option is to go for a shuttering ply base and then MDF for the top, not too much of a worry if a garage or shop but maybe a better way forward for a shed. I did a video on this if you haven't watched it. As for the house projects, I know a huge amount of the industry uses MDF and paints it. Most of the high end wardrobe fitouts will be MR MDF if they are painted. Don't get me wrong, I love working with Birch but it can be overkill for a lot of work. I hear you with a the suppliers. It can be a difficult job to find a good supplier and we have struggled in the past. Try to look for more of a timber merchant than a builders merchant and don't be afraid to ring around asking if they can source certain timber for you. You never know until you ask and don't be put off by the muppets you might encounter!
Thanks for this perspective. Ive just been gifted a large amount of MDF from an old wardrobe, slightly damaged in the extraction, but good enough to rip up to make a stable workbench to replace my Ketter thingy.
Hey no problem and thanks for the comment! Its a great material, it just needs to be used in the right setting. The Danish oil finish will help to harden it up aswell, well worth doing 👍🏼
I feel your pain with the price of wood. In New Zealand, where we can grow quality pine faster than anyone else, pine is ridiculously expensive and usually crappy quality. All our good stuff seems to get exported to China or Japan, then they process it and send it back to us, and we pay through the nose for it.
Ah that sucks but sounds about right lol. We don't really have any timber in the UK so its very expensive at the best of times as the vast majority comes from Canada, the US and EU. We have really struggled to get some of the bigger sizes (75x100) since the initial lockdown in March. Alot of the mills shut and every man and his dog is after good quality timber at the moment. Fingers crossed it calms down somewhat over the coming months!
Great video. I bought an Laminated MDF table top and I was worried about potential water exposure to the cut out gromit holes but your wax tip took away my fear. I'm going to use that method and it should be great. I'm glad I went with MDF after you explained your experience with it.
Thank you! If you have some time, check this video out below. I did a whole bunch of testing on MDF with different sealers and Danish oil came out the best 👍🏼 ua-cam.com/video/s492kNkReCA/v-deo.html
Thank you Yohann, it genuinely means a lot! Apologies for the late reply, I've taken a few weeks off. If you ever have any ideas for videos just drop them in the comments as Im always on the look out. Have a great day!
I’m in the states and I only use MDF for my bench tops. Currently building a 4’x8’ assembly bench. Will also use it for cutting down sheet goods. MDF is the absolute best top out there.
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I’d pretty much decided to build my new outfeed table from MDF but wasn’t sure about the workbench, however having watched your vid I’m going to give it a try.
Enjoyed the video. As an alternative to Birch Ply have a look at the Tulipwood/Poplar Ply. Thats not quite as hard as Birch but very stable, lighter in weight and takes all finishes really well and it's cheaper than Birch and like Birch ply there's no voids in it like the Far Eastern Ply etc. If memory serves me James Lathams sell it but probably others too. Regards Adie
@@TheNaturalWorkshop No worries, Hope life is good and looking forward to Spring arriving. Moved into a new workshop last November after being in the last one for 18yrs. Spent upwards of £45k on new machinery and kitting it out. Enjoy your channel and hope to see more video's coming soon. Regards Adie.
Building a new below house shop. Flooded in Hurricane Harvey, so house is being elevated. Houston is very humid. Want to reclaim the shipping crates the kitchen cabinets arrived in as work benches/shop furniture. Was thinking of MDF tops. Any humidity concerns. How do I make sure the top is flat if I laminate two layers? Is the moisture version better than a good waxing? Was also debating a linoleum over the MDF, any thoughts? Also, and sorry, extra question, for MDF can you have an overhang? Perhaps 8-10" inches all the way around the central base? Thanks.
Sorry to hear that you were hit bad with the Hurricane. Hope it gets sorted ASAP! MDF Tops - Awesome idea! We have a wet climate and I havnt had any issues. The only problem is if water is left on them. Flatness - I use something flat like a concrete floor. If you have a bench frame made and you know its Square/flat, then use that. Moisture - Moisture is awesome but costs most. Ive used both for benchtops. The Moisture is usually harder, denser and weighs more. If you can afford them I would go with Moisture resistant. Linoleum - This might work. I think you would need to seal the MDF before you glue as it might just tear the MDF apart if you ever need to remove it. Over hang - I do 4 inches. 8-10" would be too much. Any other questions just ask! Have a great day 😀
I used MDF for the top of my workbench too mate. The mistake I made was I never glued 2 sheets together. I used one sheet of OSB with the MDF on top of that.. 18mm each sheet .. So my bench top is 36mm thick but I do now wish I used 2 sheets of MDF. I was going to use some Danish Oil on the MDF top but I changed my mind. I think I'm going to changed to 3 sheets of MDF and go all out for the weight on my next Bench. I will hopefully be making one by early next year. I get 18mm Hardwood Plywood for 60 euros per sheet in IRELAND. The voids can be a bastd at times but tbf I've been lucky most of the time. I know Baltic Birch Ply is best for cabinets and furniture but I WILL NEVER PAY 260 EUROS for one sheet which isn't even 8'x4' or so I hear. Is that true that BB only comes in 5x5' sheets?? That's far too expensive if it is mate.
This looks like a good channel. My only complaint would be that the dialogue is hard to follow. I think just a slight tweak of the enunciation would catapult this channel into the big time! Thanks for listening and the best of luck to you. I've subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words Imran and the recommendation is something I am working on, a big thing is my mic which I hope will fix a lot of the issues. Thanks again, and have a great day!
Love it when I find UK videos so the context is relevant! I'm in London and trying to plan a workbench... very happy to see someone singing the praises of an MDF workbench top, as this is just what I'm considering at the moment. For those that want to build something beautiful as well as practical, this still seems like a good option for a beginner if you want to put in a bit of extra effort, because it's possible to do things like box in the sides with some nice looking edging and even laminate the top apparently... So says my newly aquired DK book on woodworking... (where they recommend building an MDF topped bench) Thanks for the video, I'll be watching more!
Thanks for the comment! Man, I love a DK book, I used to ask for the science and history ones for Christmas as a kid, they had some amazing diagrams inside. Ive not read the wood working one, Ill have to give that one a try. I think between this and the other comment I might have to build another bench 😁
4x8x3/4 ACX plywood $70 at Menard's today. That's what I buy and replace whenever it gets too torn up. The old stuff? It winds up as shelves, backers, boxes, that's also where plywood beats MDF. Structural.
Yeah MDF isnt great compared to Plywood but works great for shelving if you lip it. I guess it all depends on what you're after. MDF is expensive at the moment but I used to get a 3/4" sheet for £20 which was perfect!
I built a workbench from locally sourced beech so not too expensive, a lot of work but then I'd just retired. Doing it again, I'd opt for MDF. Made an assembly table / tablesaw outfeed topped with MDF. Quick and solid, turn over when worn. The MDF came from Brazil, really heavy stuff and turned out a chocolate brown when treated with Boiled Linseed Oil ! The former head of Parnham College in his recent book states he used MDF for his worktops, so I figured it'd be good enough for me !
Thanks for the comment Norman! I would love a hardwood top but its just going to get beat up and wrecked so for me personally, I know its a waste of time and money. Like you said, when the MDF gets trashed, just flip it over and start again, nice and easy and you get two for the price of one! I uploaded a video this week where I look at finishes for MDF, its worth a watch if you have the time. There were some interesting results, I would tell you...but then you might not watch the video lol.
I used Ash BB countertop on a Moravian bench I built. I cut it right down the middle and stacked it. I use and abuse it but I wanted it to outlast my grandkids. I put a 3 inch Maple Vise screw and nut in it, which I doubt I'll break!
haven't seen anyone do a 3/4inch MDF board laminated to a 1/4inch piece of good Plywood as a top means you don't have to worry about drips and spills and its a good inch thick top you can put dogs in without blowout and mount on any type of bench and still get the flat and rigid properties of the MDF..... Actually I think that's my next bench 2 sheets of 1/4inch ply with a 3/4inch sheet of MDF in the middle to make it reversible and stable although it will take a ton of glue.
Apologies as Ive been ridiculously busy at work and UA-cam had to take a back seat. That bench would be a beast, Ive had good results with double 3/4" MDF laminated together. Not sure where you are but I use a construction adhesibe called 502. You can find it for around £20-£30 for 5l if you shop around and it works really well for laminations like this 👍🏼 Let me know how you get on!
I'm starting out in woodworking as a hobby (I'm an illustrator in my day job), and this video was super helpful for deciding what material to use as a top. a big thank you! from Chile!
Do you think that an MDF bench will support bench dogs and hold fasts? I have been using them but I am going to build a new workbench. So that is a consideration for me.
Sure do, if you have a google for the Festool MFT table you will see how they use a similar system to create clamping force for different projects. If you want to use the bench for bench dogs etc I would try and go with Medite Premier or MR MDF just because its a little more solid than the cheaper stuff.
Hello there. I am thinking about making a MDF wood bench but I’m seeing it slow leaks toxic fumes? I know it’s nasty when cut down but it isn’t an issue for a basement shop?
Apologies man, I didnt see the reply. Good quality MDF in the UK has the whole "Allowed to be used in California" thing on it so I would bet that you could find the same "Low emission" MDF in the US 👍🏼
Really timely vlog - having just finished off a shed workbench using OSB lol. Looks fine now it's sanded, and an interesting pattern of course, but I'm now wondering if that was a good idea? May well splinter over time.
Haha what can you do hey! Have you treated it with anything yet? I would get a couple coats of oil based yacht varnish on there and then keep an eye on it. I've seen people use OSB for a kitchen worktop and it works fine for them so it should be ok, just make sure you treat it accordingly. The varnish will help hold all of it together so I cant see it being an issue. Worst case, rip it off in 6 months and re-board it with some MDF when its falling apart.
Rob Cosman's bench design uses a MDF top that totals three inches thick. He finishes it with Tung oil. No worries. Check out his UA-cam channel. Greetings from Albuquerque in the States.
Apologies dude for the late reply, Ive been hung up sick with COVID the last few weeks. Ill check out his channel, thanks for the recommendation. Have a great day 👍🏼
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Great up til now. They are old office desks about 25 mm thick and I have 2 glued and screwed together, so about 50 mm total with hardboard sacrificial surface sctewed on top. Weigh a ton.
I used MDF in my old shed, it took in moisture, started sagging in the middle and actually went mouldy. I hadn't treated it with anything though, and I only used one piece per top. It's cheap enough that maybe I'll try your way with my new shed. Double it up and treat it with wax, aye? Hmm. 🤔
Wow, that must have got pretty wet! Did you have a leak? My workshop isn't heated but is also not insulated so we don't get too much moisture in the air, that being said we do air it out every day. For the sagging, make sure to support it correctly, I would support at least every 600mm. Another good option would be to upgrade to Moisture Resistant MDF. It's not too much more expensive, worth look 👍🏼
Hi Craig, for the vice I have a small carpenters vice. This is attached to a piece of Plywood which is then screwed and glued to the underside of the MDF top. I used the plywood only to get it up to the same level as the top as the MDF is usually strong enough unless you are going to be putting a lot of force into it. As for the bench dogs, a 3/4" or 18mm top will be fine to take the force. As an example, I have a steel bar bender, I use this to bend 1/4" or 6mm bar stock. It has a steel plate on the base to attach to a bench with a 6 10mm holes in it. I can slot 2 large 10mm bolts through two of the holes and into the desk without bolting it down there is enough strength in the top for me to bend the bar with the bender. In fact, I have to have that bench held or braced against something as the force will move it along. All the times I've done this, I've never had an issue with the top bowing or bending. Hope that answers any questions you may have.
I’m planning on making a table saw out feed bench, topped with mdf that would be sealed with shellac. If I was to route slots in it for a sled, would you route it before or after you shellac?
I don't think it would matter too much to be honest. I would probably get it all finished and then finish it with Shellac. You may get some grain raising in the slots so just keep some sandpaper on hand to make sure you get the best fit possible 👍🏼
10 years ago I made a large and beautiful workbench and with the hurry of having it at once I decided to use MDF for the top instead of solid wood with the idea of replacing it some day and that never happened; I’m very happy with it.
Hi Alfred, its a great material when its used in the right setting and it gets a terrible rep. I hope you enjoyed the video. Apologies for the late reply, as I took a few weeks off for the summer. If you ever have any ideas for videos just drop them in the comments as Im always on the look out. Have a great day!
Hi, my current project is making my own desk. i was thinking of using MDF and sticking two 16mm panels for a total of 32mm. My concern is the possible flex as it’ll be 1500mm long so in your opinion would 32mm MDF flex much in the middle? or would it be ok? great video by the way
Thanks for the watch and comment. I would look to add some sort of lip or frame below, is that possible? Something like in my workbench or office desk videos, have you watched those? They might give you some sort of idea. I think any sheet goods would benifit from some sort of support every 600mm or so 👍🏼
Wax on MDF ! What a great and cheap idea ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience about all those workbench top materials. Do you think gluing a 6 millimeters sheet of HDF would really worth it to get a harder surface than MDF ?
You should watch the next video I made on finishes for MDF. There are a couple of super cheap options out there! Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/e3xEeZVgWGI/v-deo.html 👍🏼 As for the HDF, you could give it a go, alot depends on the work you are going to do on the bench. I would personally keep it with MDF as it works better for us. The slightly softer surface makes life easier when sanding. We had a bench where I used Hardboard and it worked well for painting on etc as we could just wipe it off.
You could do it for sure. I watched a homesteading couple use varnish OSB for their cabin countertop and it looked awesome! I cant see why you would have any issues other than it wouldn't be as dense as MDF so you would have to double it up, if not triple ideally.
What sort of price are you paying compared to the Plywood? It runs about the same price here, its about £45 a sheet for 18mm as it is for the cheap plywood. I still rate it over Ply for a top to be honest but OSB with a hardboard or thin mdf top.
Best finish for mdf, I've found, is coupla coats Danish oil. Improves appearance and strength, is non-dusting. Health: good ventilation needed for the oil application. also, of course, best possible dust extraction when working non-oiled mdf as the dust really is nasty, Finally, may I politely point out that if you had a more structured plan for what you want to say you'd be able to say it more concisely with no need for repetition. Easy for me, watching from the sidelines, of course. Power to you elbow!
John, thank you for the feedback and you are entirely right. I am finding my feet with the whole UA-cam thing at the moment, just doing a quick vlog (rambling mostly lol) is a lot easier than trying to plan videos like this but its definitely something I need to get hold of so thank you! Thats interesting to hear about the Danish Oil, Ill have to give it a go this week on some scraps. Now I think of it, I might try it on some Tung oil and BLO as well, see how they turn out. Thank again for the idea and the comment.
MDF might be good in most areas but is unsuitable for High Humidity areas that never dry out. No sealer will protect it from airborne moisture if it never cycles to a dry season.
Thanks for the feedback. If the product is correctly sealed then I would have to disagree. The average RH in the UK varies between 70 and 100% depending on the time of year. The workshop is only heated with a wood stove, the eves are unsealed and we have had issues with water ingress in the past so its not as though the MDF is in a nice controlled environment. We regularly go in to work and its 80% humidity, its a killer to maintain the timber in the environment. Obviously, if you are in the swamps of Louisiana then its different but if thats the case then you are going to struggle, even if using something like cedar.
Hello, Interesting video! Is it possible to put Plywood on top of MDF? I'm building a diy CNC table. I use a thick 1" 1/4 none moisture resistant MDF to make the top heavy .Plywood surface is more acting like a protection against stain from cuting wood or aluminium with some lubricants. If so, Is glue the best solution to stick plywood to MDF? Thanks
Hey, thanks for the view! Yeah for sure. Have you thought about maybe screwing it to the plywood so that you can change it out if it gets too messed up? I have a couple of benches where we screw the tops down, when they get bad we flip them over and then we change them out when that side is trashed. Are you going to make a torsion box frame for the top to ensure everything is flat and square? What size CNC are you building?
@@TheNaturalWorkshop ok thanks. Actually, I have already finished the table which is made of two by four with half lap joint made with the circulare saw. I've received the cnc its a queenbee cnc from bulkman 3d. A chinese compagny that kind of copy the cnc3d design. The top rails along with the feet top had to be flaten with my hand planner and sand down but not very proud of my work.Tested the flatness with a long ruler. That's it. Counting for stiffness of mdf and plywood to square evrything. Its only my second workbench build. So I think I will follow your recommendation and screw the plywood on the MDF which I had screwed at the bottom with pocket screws from the two by four rails...but I don't know how flat the top should be.
Looks to be a good machine. I've built a couple CNCs, you want the top to be as flat and level as you can possibly get it. This will make it a lot easier to get the machine square and performing correctly, good luck, you have some fun hours ahead of you! 👍
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Ok Thanks! I'll unscrew the MDF top and resand again everything! Table 1200mm X 900mm. That'ill be a lot of fun for sure. Then after I'll have to build an enclosure to reduce the noise so plenty of work ahead... Just saw your videos on your Cncs Great job! subscribed :)
I have mixed feelings. I am NOT a wood worker. I work with metal. You think wood is expensive? Try pricing a piece of 1/4" (6.35mm) steel for a large workbench top. So since I have a table to weld, on, I don't really have to have a metal table for everything else. but it does need to be sturdy. My first thought was 2 x 4 lumber which is pretty cheap in America. However, the last 2 x 4 I saw in a local hardware store that was straight was. . . well, I've never seen one that was straight. Since I don't work with wood, I don't have the tools, skills or patience to plane it down to make it flat. So MDF seems like a good choice. However, it looks to me like the workbench behind you in the video is a bit wavy. The MDF flexes a bit. I think I would be prone to using something more structural underneath and then putting the sacrificial MDF on top of it.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I work with metal sometimes and I know what you mean. I had hoped to build a welding table last year and the cost of the top was extortionate. It didn't help that I wanted a 10mm top lol, I think Im going to go for a 1x1 or 2x2 box section frame and a thinner top if I can get away with it. The MDF top in the background there (I guess you are talking about the one attached to the wall?) is 6 years old and was only ever supported at 2' centres and this was only half a sheet wide if that makes sense. There were two 45 deg brackets which were 2' long connected to the wall. If you are after something a little more structural, I built a workbench from a sheet and a bit of 3/4" plywood. Double laminating the plywood made it alot stronger and this turned out really well. I've had well over 300kg on the table and lifted it up on pallet truck, it didn't even bow. Ill drop you the link below, it might be an idea for you. Happy to answer any questions if you have any mate 👍🏼 ua-cam.com/video/DBQVEZBgrVA/v-deo.html
Terribly hard to understand with music and mic placement. Gave up trying. Only use music when you are not narrating. Ever go to a classroom where the professor is playing music while teaching?
The majority of this video is a summary of what you DON’T use instead of spending the time telling us WHY you use MDF. It’s the second video of yours that I’ve watched and you did the same in both.
Thanks for watching 👍🏼 Which one was the other one? This was more in reply to questions I had been asked as to why I didn't use other materials compared to the MDF
Yeah but you’re not a UA-cam carpenter until you’ve made a ridiculously expensive bench with fancy joints and all ! And you must have loads of clamps and old planes in shot to be a real UA-cam carpenter 😂😂😂……please stay honest it’s refreshing .
Sorry mate, I posted a reply but it never got added! I know right, I think Ill stay relegated to the leagues of being a wannabee lol. I love some of the work and effort that people but into their benches but ours get covered in stain, varnish and paint...I dont allow myself nice things lol. That's without even beginning to mention the holes that get accidentally drilled into them or saw marks lol 🤣 I like cheap, easy and utilitarian! Thanks for the kind words and comment regarding it being refreshing. I cant stand BS in real life so I am to not have too much of it on the channel 😁 Hoping to get some more videos up soon so keep those eyes peeled! Have a great day Jimmy and thanks again!
That's what she said...😂🤦♂️ All joking aside Dan its only a 13 minute video, I'm all ears on how to shorten it down a little but I want to make sure that it gets the info over otherwise there isn't much point in putting it out 👍🏼
Us over here in the USA use feet and inches. Standard size for a sheet here is 4'x8' (61x325 cm?) do you have a video of how to glue a ripped sheet of MDF together? I'm thinking drop a (literal ton) of rocks on it in my heated shop on the cement floor. I have had close to 30 linear feet of MDF for 15 years. I am in the southwest part of the States. If I use wood glue I can just use weight. Park a tractor or car on it overnight.
Hey! It's 1220 x 2440cm over here and I did do a video on laminating MDF. I tend to use lots of glue and use screws from the underside and then just remove once the glue has set. Doubled up MDF is an awesome material for a workbench, I've been using it for nearly 10 years now and a bench top lasts a good few years, even with daily use!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I will have to try to find it. Just wood glue? 1/2 inch MDF is definitely bouncy when you have to hit something. The top I'm looking at replacing has my drill press, miter saw and bench grinder on it. It gets used
I use 3/4" doubled up and once glued it's as solid as a rock! If it still has bounce I would just add a nother layer lol. Here's the video... ua-cam.com/video/DmUI1GLLk_E/v-deo.html
Thank you Lord. Thats a fair comment 🤣 Ive seen it for over £65 just recently and thats if I can get hold of it at all! A lot of guys recommend Birch ply, thats getting on for £145 a sheet! It sucks at the moment but it should start to settle down...at some point...we hope lol
Either screw down from the top and fill the hole or add in some sort of bracket underneath and screw up from underneath. The MDF Edges are fine, a coat of Danish oil or MDF sealer will help toughen it up or you could face frame it with some material if you wanted to but Ive never really had an issue to be honest.
If you check this short out you can see the state my workbench is in. Its been up a couple of years and it gets hammered but its still fine and I can use the edges to reference off of if I need to. Hope that helps 👍🏼 ua-cam.com/users/shortsuBGfN0_Whs4?feature=share
Great to see a UK perspective, I am planning on building an MDF topped workbench in the future and wondered if my go to finish for workshop projects of Danish oil would be a good finish for an MDF top. What are your thoughts?
I think it should work just fine, as long as its sealing the MDF that all that matters as that's going to be the issue. A comment from John Lofts on this video said that Danish Oil what he uses so you should be good to go with it. Ill have to do some tests on the Danish and see how it holds up.
I think Danish oil is oil with a small amount of polyurethane. You need lots of coats. Polyurethane varnish is cheaper and seals better with fewer coats and is waterproof. I don’t like water based varnishes. They give poor sealing and keep raising the grain. I use car twin pack acrylic lacquer. It can be diluted with thinners. It’s perfectly clear, hard and water and heat resistant. It’s much easier to get mdf flat, rather than real wood. It is also very stable.
I would be really interested to hear how the shellac turns out and how it lasts. I bet that would give you a nice finish and depending on how well it stands up, it might be fairly easy to refinish it should you need to. Keep us updated!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I will for sure. Worst case scenario if the shellac doesn't hold up I can just take the MDF off and replace it. I'm wanting a top on my workbench that I don't mind if it actually gets beaten up.
Hi Jerry, yeah MDF swells up very quickly, even from something like a ring off of the base of a coffee cup so it needs to be treated for sure. Wax and/or polyeurthevane varnish are great options. I use wax on my builds and it works great.
I like the idea of MDF because it's flat, for some reason though in central Europe -> MDF is super rare. I need to find a supplier. Right now I'm using OSB for various surfaces, but as you can imagine while it's cheap it's not super straight or level. Another benefit of MDF over plywood is that you don't get any distracting grain patterns when you're checking for flatness or squareness, the work surface and the piece are more distinct.
I know there is a bit of a shortage at the moment so maybe thats the issue with the supply? 100% agree with you and the benefits of MDF. Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
I think it is a great idea. Wax it and good to go. Especially with the price of timber in the uk. Goes up in price just about every time I go to get some new stuff. Thank you.
Thanks, hope the video helped! I've started to use Danish oil or Treatex for the bench finish now after some more testing. Danish oil is the best Budget option and Treatex the better one but costs more! Tell me about it with the timber costs, I just put an order in and its costs me an extra £120 from what it would have done last week 🤦♂️ Trying to run a woodworking business at the moment is extremely hard work.
I tried to get the weight for some sheets once as I had to make sure I could get 25+ sheets home.... 35kg, both 11 and 18mm were 35kg too. Helpful, might as well be blank.
Yeah it can be a right killer when trying to find out specific information like that. We try to ask the main supplier as we need to know that info when pricing up for work. Shipping can get expensive really quickly when things start to get heavy. It adds another little tick box to get right lol
In the cabinet shop I worked in we topped our work benches wilt 1/4” (6mm) melamine. Very easy to keep clean, especially glue which pops right off with a putty knife. When the melamine got torn up it was easy to change out.
Was that 6mm thick melamine? I've not seen that before. I will have to have a look. I've always been against melamine as all I could find was less than 1mm in the UK, once its chipped it ruins the surface but 6mm would be perfect! Thanks man!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop The 1/4” we used was an MDF core with a thin layer of melamine so probably not what you were hoping for. If we need more durability we would use high pressure laminate. Not a big fan of melamine but it did work well for a replaceable work surface.
Hi, yeah that would work fine! By all means, put a finish on there if you are worried but we have even used normal MDF in an unheated shop and it hasn't been an issue. You should always make sure the shop is well ventilated if you don't have a heat source as you will get condensation build up which will damage any wood you have in the area but yeah, the MDF will work perfectly.
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Another senior beginner here. Thank you for your perspective on using MDF. I've seen a lot of talk about how bad MDF is. I was glad to see the perspective from someone actually successfully using it. I just bought MDF for my workbench today. I'm building a 2' x 4' bench and want a surface that is flat so I can build torsion boxes and assemble my work.
The two biggest concerns seems to be that the edges chip off easily and the moister in the air, or spilled on the material, distort it and cause it to disintegrate. I've seen a number of people using it, and it was suggested that I build a border around the top. I have some red oak if I need to do that.
Here we have three types of MDF I think I identified. The first is the melamine that is sandwiched between two veneer panels. The second is a lighter color that is considerably more dense than the melamine. The third is a dark color and is heavier and more dense than the lighter stuff. You appear to be using the cheaper, lighter stuff. I bought the more expensive version. The panel saw was out of order or I would have bought the 3/4 inch 4x8 sheet and had it cut. However, I can't carry it so I chose to get two 1/2 inch 2'x4' sheets and I'll double them up. I plan to mount T tracks inside the outer edges all the way around the top, and to have at least two tracks going across and/or down the length of the surface of the top.
I'm glad to find you and subscribed. I'll see you again soon
Hi Buck, Thanks for the comment and Im pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Ill be honest, we have never really had an issue with the edges getting damaged BUT if they do become damaged then it can be a bit of an uphill struggle to keep them from getting worse. I think the oak is a great idea, just make sure to only use screws or nails and no glue so you can remove it when/if you need to replace the top.
1" should be plenty thick enough for the top. As long as you laminate them with plenty of glue and fixings you should be golden. I like what you are doing with the tracks. Have you ever thought about using a MFT type system? They use bench dogs and they can be really great if used correctly, especially for clamping etc.
Thanks for the kind words, I look forward to seeing you again on the channel!!
Have a great day!
Exactly the information and advice I was looking for. You see all the videos for a $100 or $200 workbench then you see them use $20,000 worth of equipment and tools to make the darn thing. This is great advice to make a practical home shop workbench. I plan to make a sturdy frame and then take your advice and put an MDF top on it. Use and abuse it and when necessary replace the top. Thanks you so much. God bless.
Hey, that's awesome to hear and Im really glad it has helped you in your decision making. I know what you mean regarding the equipment. I try to make sure there is a cheap way to do things, especially if I use high priced kit in some of my videos otherwise it doesn't really help anyone. Let us know how you get on! Bless you too and have a great day!
You really don’t need background music. Not only is it distracting it also makes it hard to understand your speaking. Otherwise great content.
Thanks for the comment, I've chilled out on the music for most part now 😁
I love the UK perspective. I never considered you guys on an island had less wood options but it obviously makes sense. Lucky for us across the pond can get birch plywood for when appears to be less of a increase than you have there. But I'm finding out that MDF is really a worthwhile option than most give it credit for. Your video sheds light to that and I appreciate that. Great video! I'm now subbed. Look forward to seeing what you have in your library and what is yet to come. Thanks!
Hey, thanks MJ. Yeah the wood availability can create some serious issues sometimes. Timber can be unbelievably expensive but it is what it is, its one of the reasons I like to work with sheet goods lol.
MDF is a great option for a lot of work and it has its place, thats for sure. There are different options out there so we always go for Premier Medite or MR MDF as these seem to be more solid and its a lot easier to make furniture/jigs/benches with. Make sure to check out the video I made on MDF finishes, well worth a look if you are thinking of using it in the future.
Thanks for the sub and comment by the way, always good to get feedback. Have an awesome day buddy 👍
Nice. I'm going to be building a nice new workbench very soon, so I think MDF is the best option for the top. If it gets badly damaged, just rip it off and put on a new one. Just checked the price and they are about NZ$64 for a 2440x1220x18mm sheet, or $34 for a 2400x600x18 (just buy 2 and glue them together, no cutting necessary). Basically about 35 pounds for the latter option.
Thanks David. Yeah that will work great and that's what we did for the workbench behind me. Just cut the sheet down the centre, glued and screwed it together. The thing is solid and weighs a ton. Just make sure to wax/varnish it and ensure its sealed well. £35 for a solid workbench top is a great price!
Thanks, really good to hear a UK perspective on this. After watching all the UA-cam channels out there I have been dying to use good quality ply but found it SO expensive. I have come to the conclusion to just use MDF for my shop fit out as it is the most cost effective. I wanted to use birch ply for house projects but now even thinking to use MDF and paint instead. As an individual i find purchasing timber in the UK a minefield and still haven’t found a decent source for timber. Prices can vary wildly between merchants and being new to woodworking I just don’t know what I’m going to get buying online. Most local merchants (in Scotland anyway) are focussed on the building trades so don’t even carry anything out of the ordinary building materials.
Hey, thanks for the comment. That was part of the original aim of the channel to be honest, to get more of a UK perspective so that's great to hear!
MDF really is a great choice for cabinets and workbenches. If the environment is going to be a worry (wet/humid) then you can always go the MR MDF route and/or treat accordingly. A good option is to go for a shuttering ply base and then MDF for the top, not too much of a worry if a garage or shop but maybe a better way forward for a shed. I did a video on this if you haven't watched it. As for the house projects, I know a huge amount of the industry uses MDF and paints it. Most of the high end wardrobe fitouts will be MR MDF if they are painted. Don't get me wrong, I love working with Birch but it can be overkill for a lot of work.
I hear you with a the suppliers. It can be a difficult job to find a good supplier and we have struggled in the past. Try to look for more of a timber merchant than a builders merchant and don't be afraid to ring around asking if they can source certain timber for you. You never know until you ask and don't be put off by the muppets you might encounter!
Thanks for this perspective. Ive just been gifted a large amount of MDF from an old wardrobe, slightly damaged in the extraction, but good enough to rip up to make a stable workbench to replace my Ketter thingy.
Hey no problem and thanks for the comment! Its a great material, it just needs to be used in the right setting. The Danish oil finish will help to harden it up aswell, well worth doing 👍🏼
I feel your pain with the price of wood. In New Zealand, where we can grow quality pine faster than anyone else, pine is ridiculously expensive and usually crappy quality. All our good stuff seems to get exported to China or Japan, then they process it and send it back to us, and we pay through the nose for it.
Ah that sucks but sounds about right lol. We don't really have any timber in the UK so its very expensive at the best of times as the vast majority comes from Canada, the US and EU. We have really struggled to get some of the bigger sizes (75x100) since the initial lockdown in March. Alot of the mills shut and every man and his dog is after good quality timber at the moment. Fingers crossed it calms down somewhat over the coming months!
Great video. I bought an Laminated MDF table top and I was worried about potential water exposure to the cut out gromit holes but your wax tip took away my fear. I'm going to use that method and it should be great. I'm glad I went with MDF after you explained your experience with it.
Thank you! If you have some time, check this video out below. I did a whole bunch of testing on MDF with different sealers and Danish oil came out the best 👍🏼
ua-cam.com/video/s492kNkReCA/v-deo.html
Man I honestly havent heard such a genuine voice in few months!
Thank you Yohann, it genuinely means a lot! Apologies for the late reply, I've taken a few weeks off. If you ever have any ideas for videos just drop them in the comments as Im always on the look out. Have a great day!
I’m in the states and I only use MDF for my bench tops. Currently building a 4’x8’ assembly bench. Will also use it for cutting down sheet goods. MDF is the absolute best top out there.
Great to hear that its working out for you man, I think its a very undervalued material and its the best for a bench top, by far!!
I’m just about to build a new workbench and was wondering how MDF would perform. You’ve answered my questions, thanks.
Did you end up going with the MDF? Ive been using it for years and never had an issue
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I’d pretty much decided to build my new outfeed table from MDF but wasn’t sure about the workbench, however having watched your vid I’m going to give it a try.
Ah go for it mate! All of ours use MDF and like I said, never had an issue yet!
Brother I’m and American who uses MDF for my benches all the time . Cheers!
Good to hear man, how do you get on with them?
Enjoyed the video. As an alternative to Birch Ply have a look at the Tulipwood/Poplar Ply. Thats not quite as hard as Birch but very stable, lighter in weight and takes all finishes really well and it's cheaper than Birch and like Birch ply there's no voids in it like the Far Eastern Ply etc. If memory serves me James Lathams sell it but probably others too. Regards Adie
Apologies as I replied an age ago but it never came up. Thanks for the tip, we use it now and its a great option! 👍🏼
@@TheNaturalWorkshop No worries, Hope life is good and looking forward to Spring arriving. Moved into a new workshop last November after being in the last one for 18yrs. Spent upwards of £45k on new machinery and kitting it out. Enjoy your channel and hope to see more video's coming soon. Regards Adie.
Building a new below house shop. Flooded in Hurricane Harvey, so house is being elevated. Houston is very humid. Want to reclaim the shipping crates the kitchen cabinets arrived in as work benches/shop furniture. Was thinking of MDF tops. Any humidity concerns. How do I make sure the top is flat if I laminate two layers? Is the moisture version better than a good waxing? Was also debating a linoleum over the MDF, any thoughts? Also, and sorry, extra question, for MDF can you have an overhang? Perhaps 8-10" inches all the way around the central base? Thanks.
Sorry to hear that you were hit bad with the Hurricane. Hope it gets sorted ASAP!
MDF Tops - Awesome idea! We have a wet climate and I havnt had any issues. The only problem is if water is left on them.
Flatness - I use something flat like a concrete floor. If you have a bench frame made and you know its Square/flat, then use that.
Moisture - Moisture is awesome but costs most. Ive used both for benchtops. The Moisture is usually harder, denser and weighs more. If you can afford them I would go with Moisture resistant.
Linoleum - This might work. I think you would need to seal the MDF before you glue as it might just tear the MDF apart if you ever need to remove it.
Over hang - I do 4 inches. 8-10" would be too much.
Any other questions just ask! Have a great day 😀
I used MDF for the top of my workbench too mate. The mistake I made was I never glued 2 sheets together. I used one sheet of OSB with the MDF on top of that.. 18mm each sheet .. So my bench top is 36mm thick but I do now wish I used 2 sheets of MDF.
I was going to use some Danish Oil on the MDF top but I changed my mind. I think I'm going to changed to 3 sheets of MDF and go all out for the weight on my next Bench. I will hopefully be making one by early next year.
I get 18mm Hardwood Plywood for 60 euros per sheet in IRELAND. The voids can be a bastd at times but tbf I've been lucky most of the time.
I know Baltic Birch Ply is best for cabinets and furniture but I WILL NEVER PAY 260 EUROS for one sheet which isn't even 8'x4' or so I hear. Is that true that BB only comes in 5x5' sheets?? That's far too expensive if it is mate.
Hey, apologies. I didn't see your comment for some reason 🤷♂️ How is your bench holding up at the moment?
This looks like a good channel. My only complaint would be that the dialogue is hard to follow. I think just a slight tweak of the enunciation would catapult this channel into the big time!
Thanks for listening and the best of luck to you. I've subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words Imran and the recommendation is something I am working on, a big thing is my mic which I hope will fix a lot of the issues. Thanks again, and have a great day!
Love it when I find UK videos so the context is relevant! I'm in London and trying to plan a workbench... very happy to see someone singing the praises of an MDF workbench top, as this is just what I'm considering at the moment. For those that want to build something beautiful as well as practical, this still seems like a good option for a beginner if you want to put in a bit of extra effort, because it's possible to do things like box in the sides with some nice looking edging and even laminate the top apparently... So says my newly aquired DK book on woodworking... (where they recommend building an MDF topped bench) Thanks for the video, I'll be watching more!
Thanks for the comment! Man, I love a DK book, I used to ask for the science and history ones for Christmas as a kid, they had some amazing diagrams inside. Ive not read the wood working one, Ill have to give that one a try. I think between this and the other comment I might have to build another bench 😁
4x8x3/4 ACX plywood $70 at Menard's today. That's what I buy and replace whenever it gets too torn up. The old stuff? It winds up as shelves, backers, boxes, that's also where plywood beats MDF. Structural.
Yeah MDF isnt great compared to Plywood but works great for shelving if you lip it. I guess it all depends on what you're after. MDF is expensive at the moment but I used to get a 3/4" sheet for £20 which was perfect!
I built a workbench from locally sourced beech so not too expensive, a lot of work but then I'd just retired. Doing it again, I'd opt for MDF. Made an assembly table / tablesaw outfeed topped with MDF. Quick and solid, turn over when worn. The MDF came from Brazil, really heavy stuff and turned out a chocolate brown when treated with Boiled Linseed Oil ! The former head of Parnham College in his recent book states he used MDF for his worktops, so I figured it'd be good enough for me !
Thanks for the comment Norman! I would love a hardwood top but its just going to get beat up and wrecked so for me personally, I know its a waste of time and money. Like you said, when the MDF gets trashed, just flip it over and start again, nice and easy and you get two for the price of one!
I uploaded a video this week where I look at finishes for MDF, its worth a watch if you have the time. There were some interesting results, I would tell you...but then you might not watch the video lol.
I used Ash BB countertop on a Moravian bench I built. I cut it right down the middle and stacked it. I use and abuse it but I wanted it to outlast my grandkids. I put a 3 inch Maple Vise screw and nut in it, which I doubt I'll break!
Very nice. How do you find the Moravian bench? Does it make it easier to work?
Great discussion of the options. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
haven't seen anyone do a 3/4inch MDF board laminated to a 1/4inch piece of good Plywood as a top means you don't have to worry about drips and spills and its a good inch thick top you can put dogs in without blowout and mount on any type of bench and still get the flat and rigid properties of the MDF.....
Actually I think that's my next bench 2 sheets of 1/4inch ply with a 3/4inch sheet of MDF in the middle to make it reversible and stable although it will take a ton of glue.
Apologies as Ive been ridiculously busy at work and UA-cam had to take a back seat. That bench would be a beast, Ive had good results with double 3/4" MDF laminated together. Not sure where you are but I use a construction adhesibe called 502. You can find it for around £20-£30 for 5l if you shop around and it works really well for laminations like this 👍🏼 Let me know how you get on!
I'm starting out in woodworking as a hobby (I'm an illustrator in my day job), and this video was super helpful for deciding what material to use as a top. a big thank you! from Chile!
Hey! Sorry for the late reply, work has been super busy! Good luck with the new hobby, its great fun 😁
Do you think that an MDF bench will support bench dogs and hold fasts? I have been using them but I am going to build a new workbench. So that is a consideration for me.
Sure do, if you have a google for the Festool MFT table you will see how they use a similar system to create clamping force for different projects. If you want to use the bench for bench dogs etc I would try and go with Medite Premier or MR MDF just because its a little more solid than the cheaper stuff.
Hello there. I am thinking about making a MDF wood bench but I’m seeing it slow leaks toxic fumes? I know it’s nasty when cut down but it isn’t an issue for a basement shop?
Hi, where are you writing from? Most MDF is low emissions and should be absolutely fine.
@@TheNaturalWorkshop from the US
Apologies man, I didnt see the reply. Good quality MDF in the UK has the whole "Allowed to be used in California" thing on it so I would bet that you could find the same "Low emission" MDF in the US 👍🏼
Really timely vlog - having just finished off a shed workbench using OSB lol. Looks fine now it's sanded, and an interesting pattern of course, but I'm now wondering if that was a good idea? May well splinter over time.
Haha what can you do hey! Have you treated it with anything yet? I would get a couple coats of oil based yacht varnish on there and then keep an eye on it. I've seen people use OSB for a kitchen worktop and it works fine for them so it should be ok, just make sure you treat it accordingly. The varnish will help hold all of it together so I cant see it being an issue. Worst case, rip it off in 6 months and re-board it with some MDF when its falling apart.
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Thanks, I'll try that, or perhaps some your favourite Treetex?
haha just saw this! I do love Treatex but might go with a varnish on this occasion....but shhh...dont tell Treatex! 😂
Rob Cosman's bench design uses a MDF top that totals three inches thick. He finishes it with Tung oil. No worries. Check out his UA-cam channel. Greetings from Albuquerque in the States.
Apologies dude for the late reply, Ive been hung up sick with COVID the last few weeks. Ill check out his channel, thanks for the recommendation. Have a great day 👍🏼
Thanks, very informative. Utilising old work tops at present but definitely info for the future.
Glad I could help! How are the old worktops working out for you?
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Great up til now. They are old office desks about 25 mm thick and I have 2 glued and screwed together, so about 50 mm total with hardboard sacrificial surface sctewed on top. Weigh a ton.
@@malcolmcoward7480 Apologies as I didnt see this comment. I bet that does weigh a ton lol, that thing must be a beast!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Got them all on castors so easy to move. Wouldn't want to move around without them. Thanks again for all.
I used MDF in my old shed, it took in moisture, started sagging in the middle and actually went mouldy. I hadn't treated it with anything though, and I only used one piece per top.
It's cheap enough that maybe I'll try your way with my new shed. Double it up and treat it with wax, aye? Hmm. 🤔
Wow, that must have got pretty wet! Did you have a leak? My workshop isn't heated but is also not insulated so we don't get too much moisture in the air, that being said we do air it out every day.
For the sagging, make sure to support it correctly, I would support at least every 600mm. Another good option would be to upgrade to Moisture Resistant MDF. It's not too much more expensive, worth look 👍🏼
How do you attach a vice and bench dog holes in mdf? I assume you make a skirt or frame?
Hi Craig, for the vice I have a small carpenters vice. This is attached to a piece of Plywood which is then screwed and glued to the underside of the MDF top. I used the plywood only to get it up to the same level as the top as the MDF is usually strong enough unless you are going to be putting a lot of force into it.
As for the bench dogs, a 3/4" or 18mm top will be fine to take the force. As an example, I have a steel bar bender, I use this to bend 1/4" or 6mm bar stock. It has a steel plate on the base to attach to a bench with a 6 10mm holes in it. I can slot 2 large 10mm bolts through two of the holes and into the desk without bolting it down there is enough strength in the top for me to bend the bar with the bender. In fact, I have to have that bench held or braced against something as the force will move it along. All the times I've done this, I've never had an issue with the top bowing or bending.
Hope that answers any questions you may have.
@@TheNaturalWorkshop thanks for the reply 👍
No worries, thanks for the question. Have a great day!
I’m planning on making a table saw out feed bench, topped with mdf that would be sealed with shellac. If I was to route slots in it for a sled, would you route it before or after you shellac?
I don't think it would matter too much to be honest. I would probably get it all finished and then finish it with Shellac. You may get some grain raising in the slots so just keep some sandpaper on hand to make sure you get the best fit possible 👍🏼
10 years ago I made a large and beautiful workbench and with the hurry of having it at once I decided to use MDF for the top instead of solid wood with the idea of replacing it some day and that never happened; I’m very happy with it.
Hi Alfred, its a great material when its used in the right setting and it gets a terrible rep. I hope you enjoyed the video. Apologies for the late reply, as I took a few weeks off for the summer. If you ever have any ideas for videos just drop them in the comments as Im always on the look out. Have a great day!
Hi, my current project is making my own desk. i was thinking of using MDF and sticking two 16mm panels for a total of 32mm. My concern is the possible flex as it’ll be 1500mm long so in your opinion would 32mm MDF flex much in the middle? or would it be ok? great video by the way
I’d recommend lots of support under it.
Thanks for the watch and comment. I would look to add some sort of lip or frame below, is that possible? Something like in my workbench or office desk videos, have you watched those? They might give you some sort of idea. I think any sheet goods would benifit from some sort of support every 600mm or so 👍🏼
Good advice 👍🏼
Nudged your way by Peter Millard. This is great down to earth real world advice thanks.
Ill make sure to say thanks to him! Thanks for the comment, I try to be as honest as I can be 😀
Wax on MDF ! What a great and cheap idea ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience about all those workbench top materials. Do you think gluing a 6 millimeters sheet of HDF would really worth it to get a harder surface than MDF ?
You should watch the next video I made on finishes for MDF. There are a couple of super cheap options out there! Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/e3xEeZVgWGI/v-deo.html 👍🏼
As for the HDF, you could give it a go, alot depends on the work you are going to do on the bench. I would personally keep it with MDF as it works better for us. The slightly softer surface makes life easier when sanding. We had a bench where I used Hardboard and it worked well for painting on etc as we could just wipe it off.
what abouts osb top ?
You could do it for sure. I watched a homesteading couple use varnish OSB for their cabin countertop and it looked awesome! I cant see why you would have any issues other than it wouldn't be as dense as MDF so you would have to double it up, if not triple ideally.
Mdf in the states isn't inexpensive...it's close to same price as plywood lately. I was thinking of using osb with hardboard top.
What sort of price are you paying compared to the Plywood? It runs about the same price here, its about £45 a sheet for 18mm as it is for the cheap plywood. I still rate it over Ply for a top to be honest but OSB with a hardboard or thin mdf top.
@@TheNaturalWorkshop osb $32 usd
Mdf $59
Pine plywood$ 55
Birch $81
Maple $79
Wow! I would go the OSB and MDF/Hardboard route 👍🏼
Best finish for mdf, I've found, is coupla coats Danish oil. Improves appearance and strength, is non-dusting. Health: good ventilation needed for the oil application. also, of course, best possible dust extraction when working non-oiled mdf as the dust really is nasty, Finally, may I politely point out that if you had a more structured plan for what you want to say you'd be able to say it more concisely with no need for repetition. Easy for me, watching from the sidelines, of course. Power to you elbow!
John, thank you for the feedback and you are entirely right. I am finding my feet with the whole UA-cam thing at the moment, just doing a quick vlog (rambling mostly lol) is a lot easier than trying to plan videos like this but its definitely something I need to get hold of so thank you! Thats interesting to hear about the Danish Oil, Ill have to give it a go this week on some scraps. Now I think of it, I might try it on some Tung oil and BLO as well, see how they turn out. Thank again for the idea and the comment.
MDF might be good in most areas but is unsuitable for High Humidity areas that never dry out. No sealer will protect it from airborne moisture if it never cycles to a dry season.
Thanks for the feedback. If the product is correctly sealed then I would have to disagree. The average RH in the UK varies between 70 and 100% depending on the time of year. The workshop is only heated with a wood stove, the eves are unsealed and we have had issues with water ingress in the past so its not as though the MDF is in a nice controlled environment. We regularly go in to work and its 80% humidity, its a killer to maintain the timber in the environment. Obviously, if you are in the swamps of Louisiana then its different but if thats the case then you are going to struggle, even if using something like cedar.
Great video topic well covered.
Thanks Bob, hope its been some use to you 👍🏼
Hello, Interesting video!
Is it possible to put Plywood on top of MDF? I'm building a diy CNC table. I use a thick 1" 1/4 none moisture resistant MDF to make the top heavy .Plywood surface is more acting like a protection against stain from cuting wood or aluminium with some lubricants. If so, Is glue the best solution to stick plywood to MDF? Thanks
Hey, thanks for the view!
Yeah for sure. Have you thought about maybe screwing it to the plywood so that you can change it out if it gets too messed up? I have a couple of benches where we screw the tops down, when they get bad we flip them over and then we change them out when that side is trashed. Are you going to make a torsion box frame for the top to ensure everything is flat and square? What size CNC are you building?
@@TheNaturalWorkshop ok thanks. Actually, I have already finished the table which is made of two by four with half lap joint made with the circulare saw. I've received the cnc its a queenbee cnc from bulkman 3d. A chinese compagny that kind of copy the cnc3d design.
The top rails along with the feet top had to be flaten with my hand planner and sand down but not very proud of my work.Tested the flatness with a long ruler. That's it. Counting for stiffness of mdf and plywood to square evrything. Its only my second workbench build. So I think I will follow your recommendation and screw the plywood on the MDF which I had screwed at the bottom with pocket screws from the two by four rails...but I don't know how flat the top should be.
Looks to be a good machine. I've built a couple CNCs, you want the top to be as flat and level as you can possibly get it. This will make it a lot easier to get the machine square and performing correctly, good luck, you have some fun hours ahead of you! 👍
@@TheNaturalWorkshop Ok Thanks! I'll unscrew the MDF top and resand again everything! Table 1200mm X 900mm.
That'ill be a lot of fun for sure. Then after I'll have to build an enclosure to reduce the noise so plenty of work ahead... Just saw your videos on your Cncs Great job!
subscribed :)
Apologies for the late reply! Sounds like you have a good hold on what you need to do, have you managed to get cracking on it yet?
What is MDF?
Medium Density Fibreboard, its great stuff when used in the right setting.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard
I have mixed feelings. I am NOT a wood worker. I work with metal. You think wood is expensive? Try pricing a piece of 1/4" (6.35mm) steel for a large workbench top. So since I have a table to weld, on, I don't really have to have a metal table for everything else. but it does need to be sturdy. My first thought was 2 x 4 lumber which is pretty cheap in America. However, the last 2 x 4 I saw in a local hardware store that was straight was. . . well, I've never seen one that was straight. Since I don't work with wood, I don't have the tools, skills or patience to plane it down to make it flat. So MDF seems like a good choice.
However, it looks to me like the workbench behind you in the video is a bit wavy. The MDF flexes a bit. I think I would be prone to using something more structural underneath and then putting the sacrificial MDF on top of it.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I work with metal sometimes and I know what you mean. I had hoped to build a welding table last year and the cost of the top was extortionate. It didn't help that I wanted a 10mm top lol, I think Im going to go for a 1x1 or 2x2 box section frame and a thinner top if I can get away with it.
The MDF top in the background there (I guess you are talking about the one attached to the wall?) is 6 years old and was only ever supported at 2' centres and this was only half a sheet wide if that makes sense. There were two 45 deg brackets which were 2' long connected to the wall.
If you are after something a little more structural, I built a workbench from a sheet and a bit of 3/4" plywood. Double laminating the plywood made it alot stronger and this turned out really well. I've had well over 300kg on the table and lifted it up on pallet truck, it didn't even bow. Ill drop you the link below, it might be an idea for you. Happy to answer any questions if you have any mate 👍🏼
ua-cam.com/video/DBQVEZBgrVA/v-deo.html
100% agree with all of that but then I am which means we obviously know way more than the Americans🤣🤣
Careful...Im half American...but I know what you mean 🤣 😁
Terribly hard to understand with music and mic placement. Gave up trying. Only use music when you are not narrating. Ever go to a classroom where the professor is playing music while teaching?
Thanks for the feedback!
The majority of this video is a summary of what you DON’T use instead of spending the time telling us WHY you use MDF. It’s the second video of yours that I’ve watched and you did the same in both.
Thanks for watching 👍🏼 Which one was the other one? This was more in reply to questions I had been asked as to why I didn't use other materials compared to the MDF
Yeah but you’re not a UA-cam carpenter until you’ve made a ridiculously expensive bench with fancy joints and all ! And you must have loads of clamps and old planes in shot to be a real UA-cam carpenter 😂😂😂……please stay honest it’s refreshing .
Sorry mate, I posted a reply but it never got added!
I know right, I think Ill stay relegated to the leagues of being a wannabee lol. I love some of the work and effort that people but into their benches but ours get covered in stain, varnish and paint...I dont allow myself nice things lol. That's without even beginning to mention the holes that get accidentally drilled into them or saw marks lol 🤣 I like cheap, easy and utilitarian!
Thanks for the kind words and comment regarding it being refreshing. I cant stand BS in real life so I am to not have too much of it on the channel 😁 Hoping to get some more videos up soon so keep those eyes peeled! Have a great day Jimmy and thanks again!
You could do a better job of editing your video. You said the same things over and over.
This was one of my first videos up there so Ive learnt a lot since then! Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
too long
That's what she said...😂🤦♂️ All joking aside Dan its only a 13 minute video, I'm all ears on how to shorten it down a little but I want to make sure that it gets the info over otherwise there isn't much point in putting it out 👍🏼
Us over here in the USA use feet and inches. Standard size for a sheet here is 4'x8' (61x325 cm?) do you have a video of how to glue a ripped sheet of MDF together? I'm thinking drop a (literal ton) of rocks on it in my heated shop on the cement floor. I have had close to 30 linear feet of MDF for 15 years. I am in the southwest part of the States. If I use wood glue I can just use weight. Park a tractor or car on it overnight.
Hey! It's 1220 x 2440cm over here and I did do a video on laminating MDF. I tend to use lots of glue and use screws from the underside and then just remove once the glue has set. Doubled up MDF is an awesome material for a workbench, I've been using it for nearly 10 years now and a bench top lasts a good few years, even with daily use!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I will have to try to find it. Just wood glue? 1/2 inch MDF is definitely bouncy when you have to hit something. The top I'm looking at replacing has my drill press, miter saw and bench grinder on it. It gets used
I use 3/4" doubled up and once glued it's as solid as a rock! If it still has bounce I would just add a nother layer lol.
Here's the video...
ua-cam.com/video/DmUI1GLLk_E/v-deo.html
Great video, but I'd love to know where I can get 18mm MDF for £20/sheet in 2021! x-D £40 more like, anywhere that's got it in stock.
Thank you Lord. Thats a fair comment 🤣 Ive seen it for over £65 just recently and thats if I can get hold of it at all! A lot of guys recommend Birch ply, thats getting on for £145 a sheet! It sucks at the moment but it should start to settle down...at some point...we hope lol
How do you attach it to the base? Does the soft sides of the MDF not need a facing?
Either screw down from the top and fill the hole or add in some sort of bracket underneath and screw up from underneath. The MDF Edges are fine, a coat of Danish oil or MDF sealer will help toughen it up or you could face frame it with some material if you wanted to but Ive never really had an issue to be honest.
If you check this short out you can see the state my workbench is in. Its been up a couple of years and it gets hammered but its still fine and I can use the edges to reference off of if I need to. Hope that helps 👍🏼
ua-cam.com/users/shortsuBGfN0_Whs4?feature=share
@@TheNaturalWorkshop very helpful thank you 🫡
Great to see a UK perspective, I am planning on building an MDF topped workbench in the future and wondered if my go to finish for workshop projects of Danish oil would be a good finish for an MDF top. What are your thoughts?
I think it should work just fine, as long as its sealing the MDF that all that matters as that's going to be the issue. A comment from John Lofts on this video said that Danish Oil what he uses so you should be good to go with it. Ill have to do some tests on the Danish and see how it holds up.
I think Danish oil is oil with a small amount of polyurethane. You need lots of coats. Polyurethane varnish is cheaper and seals better with fewer coats and is waterproof. I don’t like water based varnishes. They give poor sealing and keep raising the grain. I use car twin pack acrylic lacquer. It can be diluted with thinners. It’s perfectly clear, hard and water and heat resistant.
It’s much easier to get mdf flat, rather than real wood. It is also very stable.
I’m planning on using mdf on my next workbench hopefully in the next month. I’m planning on using shellac on mine.
I would be really interested to hear how the shellac turns out and how it lasts. I bet that would give you a nice finish and depending on how well it stands up, it might be fairly easy to refinish it should you need to. Keep us updated!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop I will for sure. Worst case scenario if the shellac doesn't hold up I can just take the MDF off and replace it. I'm wanting a top on my workbench that I don't mind if it actually gets beaten up.
@@GraffWoodshop Apologies as I didnt see the reply! Thats what its all about for me. Low cost and easy to replace if it doesnt work out!
What about liquid spills? I’ve seen MDF soak and swell when it gets wet. Do you treat it with anything?
I use wipe on poly, and paste wax
Hi Jerry, yeah MDF swells up very quickly, even from something like a ring off of the base of a coffee cup so it needs to be treated for sure. Wax and/or polyeurthevane varnish are great options. I use wax on my builds and it works great.
Great advice, we use wax on ours and haven't had an issue yet.
I like the idea of MDF because it's flat, for some reason though in central Europe -> MDF is super rare. I need to find a supplier. Right now I'm using OSB for various surfaces, but as you can imagine while it's cheap it's not super straight or level.
Another benefit of MDF over plywood is that you don't get any distracting grain patterns when you're checking for flatness or squareness, the work surface and the piece are more distinct.
I know there is a bit of a shortage at the moment so maybe thats the issue with the supply?
100% agree with you and the benefits of MDF. Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
I think it is a great idea. Wax it and good to go. Especially with the price of timber in the uk. Goes up in price just about every time I go to get some new stuff. Thank you.
Thanks, hope the video helped! I've started to use Danish oil or Treatex for the bench finish now after some more testing. Danish oil is the best Budget option and Treatex the better one but costs more! Tell me about it with the timber costs, I just put an order in and its costs me an extra £120 from what it would have done last week 🤦♂️ Trying to run a woodworking business at the moment is extremely hard work.
I tried to get the weight for some sheets once as I had to make sure I could get 25+ sheets home.... 35kg, both 11 and 18mm were 35kg too. Helpful, might as well be blank.
Yeah it can be a right killer when trying to find out specific information like that. We try to ask the main supplier as we need to know that info when pricing up for work. Shipping can get expensive really quickly when things start to get heavy. It adds another little tick box to get right lol
In the cabinet shop I worked in we topped our work benches wilt 1/4” (6mm) melamine. Very easy to keep clean, especially glue which pops right off with a putty knife. When the melamine got torn up it was easy to change out.
Was that 6mm thick melamine? I've not seen that before. I will have to have a look. I've always been against melamine as all I could find was less than 1mm in the UK, once its chipped it ruins the surface but 6mm would be perfect! Thanks man!
@@TheNaturalWorkshop The 1/4” we used was an MDF core with a thin layer of melamine so probably not what you were hoping for. If we need more durability we would use high pressure laminate. Not a big fan of melamine but it did work well for a replaceable work surface.
The best workbench top I have found is 1/4inch tempered Masonite. But I am living in Mexico now and can't find it.
Im convinced. Thank you.
You're welcome. Have a great day and thanks for watching 👍
Thank you for common sense ideas.
Thanks for the feedback Mark, very much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Non-heated brick garage (UK) would you recommend moisture resistant mdf.?
Hi, yeah that would work fine! By all means, put a finish on there if you are worried but we have even used normal MDF in an unheated shop and it hasn't been an issue. You should always make sure the shop is well ventilated if you don't have a heat source as you will get condensation build up which will damage any wood you have in the area but yeah, the MDF will work perfectly.