@Ross Lukeman hi im gonna be running a 12v off the grid system using the same battery , with one 540w panel .. how do u determine what size fuse to run between the positive battery to bus bar ?? Is that a breaker your running as well ?
Thanks Ross for doing a great job of both explaining and teaching, yes that is why we are here on you tub. At the same time your also teaching and explaining different Victron Energy products and what they do each and what they do in a complete Victron System you are slowly teaching the end user the benefits of Victron products, Thank You. Plus we as viewers are learning the fact is Victron products cost a little more but there Worth It!
Very clear and excellent demonstration. I have been vacillating between the Easy Solar (as it's easy) and the Multi Plus but after this and seeing all items clearly laid out I'm going to go for the split slept up (MPPT, Gx, Multi Plus and breaker panel).
we're just starting our electrics in our van conversion and been trying to get my head around this part of the build and this was so well explained, thank you!!
Very helpful video, and cheat-sheet. One question: how wold you integrate alternator charging with an inverter/charger such as this? Directly to the battery?
Very good demonstration, thanks! I'm sure you simply wanted to keep things easy, but the delay when switching from inverter to charger ist not because it takes time to detect shore voltage. It is because the Multiplus needs to gradually synchronize the inverters frequency and timing to the shore supply before switching. The more of a difference, the longer this will take.
If my mum was still here, she be thankful that this unit won't stop her using the vacuum cleaner everyday 👍 I'm always seriously impressed with Victron Energy its my favourite & build quality is top, retired Aerospace Defence Hardware Test Qualification Verification Consultant so you know how very fussy we are as electronics engineers 👍
Hi Ross! The videos are super helpful. Thanks! I’m going to go with solar power and the Victron multipluse for shore power to my trailer conversion. I would like to add the ability to charge my trolling motor battery off shore or solar. Was thinking of a quick connect system. Like a long cable with an SAE PORT. Where would I add that to these systems?
Well done, thanks for the good explanation. I only wish you would have shown the toaster running with the AC input dial back to a fairly low amperage setting and demonstrated the hybrid mode where the unit was pulling the additional needed power from your batteries to supplement the limited AC input power. Pretty sure the unit can do that, would’ve been cool to see it.
Hey Todd, thanks for the suggestion. It does have that feature, called PowerAssist. I'll definitely keep that in mind for the next video on this topic! Thanks for tuning in.
this is my first time see you, and it WILL NOT BE MY LAST !, its was so nice to see these units on a wall, other then inside some cramped cabinet and the time you took to explained everything, not to degrade anyone, but in lain mans ways, I watch Will on youtube and his very good put he talks more so over my head most of the time and to fast or to technical for me
Your video is very helpful and I like the 2000W MultiPlus but my question is: the Victron manual suggests a 350-400Ah battery and I own a 200Ah battery. Have you used less of a battery and what to expect. Thanks
The temperature sensor is critical for LiFePO4 batteries as they'll be permanently damaged by charging at 32F/0C or lower (99+% will anyways, there are a very few brands with exotic electrolytes that that can charge below freezing but they're as expensive per Wh as other lithium chemistries and so not very popular)
Hey Ross. thanks for all you do! Installed two of these units in parallel but finding differing opinions on how to bring shore power in. Run to master then to slave or run to a common and have equal size length and gauge wires to both? Diagram shows AC in daisy chained but a few ppl have said otherwise. Thoughts? Love your vids man.
Hi Thomas, thanks for checking out the videos! I have thus far not put these units in parallel, and see that Victron puts this in the "advanced" category so my advice will be limited. I can tell you that you do not want to daisy chain it, per Victron's advice: www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.bus:manual_parallel_and_three_phase_systems (read the DC and AC wiring section). They also have an installation course on this here: professional.victronenergy.com/online-training/ It's course 9.2 Three-phase & Parallel installation. I hope that helps, good luck with it!
Hey Ross! Super helpful video. One thing I'm wondering (apologies if I missed this) is that if you're connected to shore power and simply using the inverter as pass through for your electricity, are you still limited to the 2000 watts? We plan to mostly be connected to shore power in our tiny house, and we'd love to be able to run our mini-split and dishwasher at the same time for example. We were looking at the 3000VA Multiplus but aren't sure if it would be powerful enough.
Hi Micah, great question. The MultiPluses of various sizes have a 50-amp transfer switch, and you can connect grid power to them from a 50-amp breaker. They are built to handle this pass-thru amperage, so on paper without inefficiencies, that would translate to about 6000 watts (120V x 50A). The AC-In terminals are built to take up to 6 AWG cable, so if you send in that much power you would need to ensure your cable from the breaker is built to take 50 amps. That would be 8 AWG minimum, 6 AWG ideal, to handle 50 amps. I will typically do 10 AWG and only run 30 amps for vans. So the rated wattage of these units is only referring to their internal inverters, when on grid power it's a different wattage, depending on what you wire in from the grid. Also Victron sells these using the "VA" rating (apparent power, or power on paper), but you will want to look at the continuous wattage rating, which is always lower, and is in their data sheet for each unit. Hope that helps!
Thanks,, first time - I see some neat uses etc. but my van/motorhome already has a power supply and progressive dynamics charger .. but I don't have an inverter yet. have solar and alt power victron but not hooked up yet (too rainy).
Very cool David! The Progressive Dynamics charger should work well. When you get an inverter, maybe throw in a transfer switch. GoPower has a good one for $80. That way your circuits can be fed from the inverter, and it will automatically switch over to shore power when you plug in. Hope things come together when the rain stops, thanks for stopping by!
@@rosslukeman Hmm.... I have a rig in the shop today that has a transfer switch problem. Haven't looked at it yet... but it is switching between generator and shore. Are you saying something about the inverter and using one with shore?
Thanks! Yes you can do various split phase setups with 2 or 3 of these units. I spoke with Peter Kennedy of PKYS (Victron dealer) and he sent me this article about it: www.victronenergy.com/blog/2021/02/02/victronconnect-parallel-three-split-phase-setup-and-more/ There's a neat video at the top showing how you can set up various multi-unit configurations using their phone app. Hope that helps!
Great video 🎉one question if anyone can help please I see a rcd breaker fitted for the ac in But would I need another rcd or mcb for ac out the the vans loads ? in the video he hasn’t got one he powers the toaster from the cable out of the multi I want to do the same but run a cable from the multi to power x2 plug sockets that will use a toaster or kettle only max hair straighteners that is all the inverter will use It’s 12/1600/70 is it best to fit 16amp rcd ac in and 16amp mcb for ac out ? Thank you would really help to understand this
Does the inverter turn off shore power automatically when the battery is fully charged? to prevent over charging the battery. I didn't see that in the monitor.
Thank you so very helpful, do you have a part number for this unit. This is exactly what we are looking for we are building a moto van with a non 12v A/C and will run of generator / or shore pwr.
Hey there, thanks for checking out my videos, great to hear you're getting something out of them. The solar charger is similar to the charger shown in this video, and all chargers connect to the bus bars. Nothing should really connect directly to the batteries, as it negates your ability to add breakers/fuses to prevent fires. Each charger should have breakers/fuses and connect to the bus bars or a similar type of distribution point in the system. Hope that helps, thanks for watching-
Hi John, thanks for checking out my video! I have more extensive documentation of these systems in my van power course. You can find out more here: rosslukeman.com/vanpower
This 2000VA can still be plugged into 50A shore power as well, correct? It would only power my RV basically as a 30A source when it's on inverter. Is that correct? I know the 3000 would power both sides of my panel; however, I only plan on using 2 - 100ah lifepo4 batteries and from what I've researched, you need more battery power for the 3000. We feel the 2000 should be plenty for our occasional overnights without shore power.
Here is a Victron blurb about the MultiPlus and Lithium batteries: Temperature compensation: Charge voltages are not increased or decreased within normal temperature ranges (5°C - 40°C) for lithium batteries. Enabling Lithium mode will disable the normal built in temperature compensation features that are used for lead acid batteries. The MultiPlus temperature compensation lowers voltage when lead-acid batteries heat up. It does not turn off charge current when lithium gets cold, etc. The shutdown for low temperatures will happen via the batteries' BMS.
@@rosslukeman Hi Ross. Thanks for your reply. It's not a matter of temperature compensation, it's a matter of charging lithium batteries must be disabled at low temperatures. BMS shutdown is for emergencies when the primary systems fail to operate properly, normal operation should not trigger BMS cutoff. The system should not even attempt to charge them at low temperatures. The BMS is a backup protection in case the system fails to disable charging.
@@rosslukeman OK Ross, some experts have said this feature is there, that Lithium mode does provide low temperature charging protection. I have not verified this myself, but I just searched for and found this feature being used and mentioned by Justin Cook of Bay Marine Supply. It may be new and not well known. I'm planning to try it but haven't set it up yet. Hard to keep up with Victron. Thanks for your help and have a good day. :)
Hi Ross, loved the video and all the features of this unit. Would this unit power an induction cook top which is rated about 1800 watts? Which is right on the limit of 1600 continuous watts output.
Hi Robert, it's sort of like an engine that you're taking to the redline to do a task. It will do it but the engine may be a little small for that. The caveat is that if you end up using the stove on a medium setting most of the time, consumption may drop below the 1600 watt rating. If you're really pulling 1800w (or you have other items turned on at the same time, such as a water heater), I would upsize the inverter-charger. Hope that helps!
Ross, That was such a great discussion and demo!!! Very helpful! I have a modest solar 1@165W panel that I will upgrade to a 2nd (maybe 3) this winter. One question: It relates to having only MODEST Shore Power, like only a 15-20amp 120v, (NOT the 30amp needed for AC) from a a campsite Outlet or a small boondocking Generator... *** Can we configure (or buy an option) to make this Inverter-Charger draw power from BOTH the "modest shore power" / "small generator" AND the battery system to make up power needs for my normal 30amp services like the Air Conditioning? 🤔 Some of the larger Victron units have the Victron "POWER ASSIST" feature. That would make this unit perfect. 😎 I really don't want to carry a large gas generator, though I do have a SMALL suitcase Inverter Generator (1600w with NEMA L5-30R, 13.3A @ 120V). Cheers, Eric
Hey Eric, thanks for tuning in, I'm glad you got value from the video. It is my understand that this smaller inverter-charger has the PowerAssist feature as well. As far as I know, they all do. I think that would solve it, and boost the limited grid/generator power for those larger loads. Hope that helps!
@rosslukeman Say Ross, which "Charge Controller" and spec do you recommend for me if I want 600w to maybe one day 800w on the roof? My current 1@165w Furrion Panel has that "Voc" spec at 20.4V each. I'm not sure I can mix and match different brand panels & specs? So, my 3 panel winter project would be 165w × 3 panels = 495W. My future 5 panels would give me 825W, and if I understand correctly..., I must add up the Voc's so 20.4 Voc × 5 = 102 Voc as some part of the spec needs??? Is being over the 100W a danger? Should I just pass on 5 panels and limit them to panels to stay below the 100W? I ask because... when I looked at one of the Victron Charge Controllers, it said, "SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt" ... I'm guessing the 102W means it's NOT Safe to use the 100|30 Victron?? Also... if I get this right, the 100|30 means it could charge my battery at 30 amp? BUT I thought the Victron MultiPlus did the charging? So I'm confused. If I get the MultiPlus, do I still need the Charge Controller? If I do, I'm back on the same question ... which one. Just Go Big, or go home, lol? 😳 Victron makes so many. Ha-ha, I currently have a 12V 230Ah battery & eventually will get another one. Cheers, Eric
Hi, great demo, everything working as per your video but not getting any power from inverter when switched from shore power, can you advise Regards Noel (N. Ireland)
Hello Noel, thanks for checking out my video. You may have put it in the "charger only" setting, which is meant to be for charging batteries on shore power. You would instead need to have it in the "on" setting. That's a first guess, otherwise I would look at the troubleshooting guide for your inverter-charger model and see if any of those topics seem relevant. Sorry, no sure-fire solution comes to mind on this. Thanks for stopping by my channel. Ross
Great video! Thanks for the fantastic info! I have an older Multiplus Compact 12 2000 80-50 120V for my sailboat. Will that be compatible with the Cerbo GX?
Hi Chris, thanks for checking out the video. I was perusing the Cerbo manual and remembered your comment. Here is what it says: The earliest version of the VE.Bus devices which can be connected to the Cerbo GX is 19xx111 or 20xx111, which were released in 2007. VE.Bus firmware 26xxxxx and 27xxxxx are also supported ...but 18xxxx is not. That's from page 3 of this: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Cerbo_GX/CCGX__Venus_GX__Cerbo_GX__Cerbo-S_GX_Manual-en.pdf Hope that helps!
Hi Chris, you can find the serial number (shown as 19xx111 or 20xx111 above) inside the front cover on the circuit board. Or on a sticker on the side. Just look for something that starts with 19 or 20. But frankly your unit is probably newer than 2007, which was the cutoff they gave.
Hey Ross, could that AC in power come from a gasoline generator as opposed to an 15 amp outlet? Also could I have the AC out powering a breaker box so that I could have multiple circuits? I also want to set my solar system up to act like a shore power connection to connect my RV's 50 amp cord from a 50 amp circuit in a breaker box to the 50 amp service port of the RV because I am getting a 48v system and I don't want to convert my RV's 12v system. The RV is just used stationary so I don't need panels on the roof or a solar system that is portable. Is that possible?
Hey Ross thanks for the video I do have a question, charged my batteries with shore power thinking I might have overcharged then gave me a low battery signal then proceeded to have overload flashing as well when I didn’t have anything plugged in or on in the van. Turned the inverter off in fear of messing up the batteries. Is this a case of the solar panels needing to get more sunlight? Should I plug back into shore power and put it on the charge only setting? Any help would be great!
Hi Joseph, it's hard to tell. I would see what your voltages are doing and if any solar is coming in. The MultiPlus will also flash combinations of its indicator lights for other issues. The manual has a listing of the different light combinations and what they mean. Also I've had a short circuit before trigger the overload light, so if there's any load that's shorting out, it could set off the overload light and drain your batteries. Frankly if the charger is working correctly then I don't think you would need to worry about what solar's doing in this instance. You need to figure out your voltages, turn off breakers to your loads one by one, try to find the culprit. Not sure if I helped here but those are a few thoughts...
I have a “50 amp” rv. If i have a 15amp shorepower only while ataying at say a friends house - will this unit draw from both battery and shorepower to allow me to occasionally draw a larger than 15 amp load.
Hey Patrick, thanks for tuning in. Yes this machine has a PowerAssist feature, so if you tell it to only pull 15 amps from your friend's house, it can supplement that with battery/inverter power. If your system is truly a 50-amp configuration, it should be noted that that's a 4-wire setup, and the machine in this video is single-phase 120V, or a 3-wire setup, so something to look out for. Thanks for tuning in-
A great video! But then it leads to more questions for those who decide to get a MultiPlus: What about a 3000VA versus 2000VA on a 12V system? Some say go 24V if you want a 3000VA, but then you give up alternator charging. Isn't it better to operate well below your device limits? Even if you only go over the 2000VA limit 5% of the time isn't it worth it to have that extra there? What about a kill switch for when you don't need the inverter? I'm sure there's other questions too.
Thank you Tony. Yes in general I use the 3000VA for the reasons you mentioned. Some people "get by" with the 2000VA but to me you are limited and will be using your device at its max capacity oftentimes, depending on what you're running. It depends on what appliances you'll be using I suppose. Switching to 24V is not preferred in my book, although you could get a 12-24V charger to still have alternator charging. People get excited about using smaller wires with the 24V systems, but it introduces other inefficiencies in my opinion in vehicles. On the kill switch, yes I agree you should get the remote so you can turn it off from a convenient location. Great questions, thanks for stopping by-
Hi Stephen, I'm sure they're great units but the inverter rating I find to be a little small at 1300 watts (at 70 degrees F) if we're talking about a van or RV application. Making breakfast is the use-case I would go by personally. Can I run an electric stove, coffee maker, hot water heater (for the dishes) simultaneously? Maybe a microwave? If you run anything at the same time you have to add the wattages together and the inverter must handle that. I also don't like running inverters at their max capacity on a regular basis. So for me, I would not put the 1600VA model in a van or RV, as I would be at or beyond its continuous output rating on a daily basis. Thanks for the question!
Ross. Couple questions for you. Can you split phase the 2000 24v? If so, does it have to be the same exact model? Can I split phase with say a 3000 24v multi?
Hi Brad, yes you can split phase any of them when you do the programming. I would not use different models as the load will be unbalanced as far as I know. Better to use identical units.
You could do it but the wiring is going to be messy. You would go from 120 to 150 amps of charging. I don't know if it's really worth it. You could always upsize the inverter-charger and get one with a bigger charger than 120 amps. Like the Quattro, but it's a lot more money.
When we turned on the shore power, the charge controller started screaming, and the feed in was 1.5kW, but the battery was full, and still the charge controller was screaming. We pulled the plug and haven't been brave enough to try again. Any ideas?
Hi Geoff, it sounds like it might have been a high-voltage alarm on the charge controller? Assuming it has one. You will want to match the charge voltages if you can, between the shore power charger and the solar charge controller. That is the only thing I can think of. If the battery is full then all chargers should shut down independently, they don't make each other scream typically. Good luck with it.
the toaster just plugged in and its at 4 Watts, boy that just shows the phantom power that electronic steal power just plugged in and could shorted ones battery life when needed power on boom docking
Thanks for checking out the video Greg, great point there! In general it's good to shut down this equipment when not in use to avoid any phantom loads as you've observed, and to eliminate any power consumption from the equipment itself. Thanks for the comment!
Hey there, no they don't have Bluetooth by default. You have to add the VE Smart dongle to give them Bluetooth, so you should be go. Thanks for tuning in!
Hello I have the Multiplus 24V/2000VA/50-32 230V Inverter/Charger - Victron Energy Can I automatically trigger the start of my generator to recharge if the battery drops? thank you
I am not completely sure on that. The MultiPlus is able to be set up as a battery monitor if it's the only charger connected to the batteries. It does have a relay that could potentially be programmed to turn on the generator at a certain battery state of charge. I would look at the manual. If the MultiPlus can't do it, or you have multiple charge sources, then you could get a battery monitor that has its own relay (such as BMV-712) and that could trigger the generator.
I just did a search and couldn't find them either! I ran across mine at PKYS, where I get most of my Victron items. Here is the product page: shop.pkys.com/pmp122200100
Only things I don't like is the VA rating to the real Watt. and only 1 outlet. The 2000 isn't 2000 but 1600 for example ... I just ordered one of these as a budget restriction is in play.
Yes the VA thing kind of throws people off. The 1600 watts true power vs 2000VA (apparent power) would be a .80 power factor. However it appears the power factor goes down as the unit heats up. I suppose they are reluctant to label it with a specific wattage as it changes based on conditions. The Victron people are sticklers for details.
As far as I know they just redesigned the case and dropped the price $75. They also quit calling it MultiPlus Compact and just call it MultiPlus 1200VA now, which was the output rating of the old model.
Hi Joe, yes what Jamie said, they have the 3000VA model that comes in a 24V edition. It puts out 2400w continuous, 6000w peak. Beyond that they have the 24V 5000VA Quattro, which does 4000w continuous, 10000w peak. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment!
@@rosslukeman Thanks Ross; can I purchase Victron components through you and can you supply a custom "complete" design schematic for my Ford transit Van with factory auxiliary 250 A alternator charge system and 400 amp solar? Thanks! Great videos; keep them coming!
@@joenovak9366 thanks for inquiring, at this time I do not sell the components, but I do have a course on these systems, that includes parts lists. You can find out more at rosslukeman.com/vanpower. The course is not van brand specific but I have worked on Transits and can answer specific questions on that model. Thanks for checking out my videos, more on the way!
Hi Bob, yes your 12-loads should run autonomously directly off of the batteries and don't need the inverter-charger, although the full story is that the charger also feeds the 12-volt loads as it's trying to charge the batteries. But yes they will run with this component turned off with no problem. Great question, thanks for tuning in!
Hi Bob, I don't really but here is the Oregon listing from the Vanlife Outfitters Directory: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/search-result/?directory_type=general&q=&in_cat=256&custom_field%5Bstate%5D=OR Hope that helps!
Maybe you can help me I'm looking for someone that can help me install my small solar power system that I have on my box van I need someone in Washington that's familiar with a viltron energy solar charge controller and distributors going into a 48 volt inverter it has 5 solar panels on the roof each are 370 watt for as total of 1850 watts all together. So do you know anyone in Washington state that can accurately hookup this system???
Hey David, thanks for reaching out. I would check out AM Solar, or the directory of installers on VanlifeOutfitters.com. A lot of great options on there. Hope that helps, good luck with it!
so the grey box on the left, could that be a power control center like this “Mighty Mini” The Compact All-In-One System…AC/DC Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter with built-in Charge Wizard®, to get on the road with my 7x14 trailer, till I can get the Batteries, and I guess if I was not going to charge any batteries I wouldn't have to get the one with a batter charging unit , THANK WILL BE WATCHING FOR THE NEXT VIDEO AND SHARING
Hi Greg, the grey box is just a breaker for the incoming 30 amp shore power. If you were to use the MultiPlus inverter-charger shown in this video, it has the battery charger in it, so you would not need the converter with Charge Wizard from Progressive Dynamics. The converter is just a 120V to 12V charger, which the MultiPlus has. You would just get the PD5000 from Progressive Dynamics, it's got the AC/DC distribution (for 12V fuses and 120V breakers), without the battery charger. Hope that helps!
Get the Ultimate Van Power Cheat Sheet: www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower
@Ross Lukeman hi im gonna be running a 12v off the grid system using the same battery , with one 540w panel .. how do u determine what size fuse to run between the positive battery to bus bar ?? Is that a breaker your running as well ?
I have watched many videos on electrical systems. Ross, you have the BEST presentation of anyone I have seen. Thanks SO MUCH!
John, I really appreciate that! Thanks for the positive feedback and for tuning in! More to come...
You always do such a great job explaining things so that it's understandable! Thanks so much for all the great info.
Thanks Lauren, I'm glad you found that helpful! I appreciate you tuning in.
Thanks Ross for doing a great job of both explaining and teaching, yes that is why we are here on you tub. At the same time your also teaching and explaining different Victron Energy products and what they do each and what they do in a complete Victron System you are slowly teaching the end user the benefits of Victron products, Thank You.
Plus we as viewers are learning the fact is Victron products cost a little more but there Worth It!
Very clear and excellent demonstration. I have been vacillating between the Easy Solar (as it's easy) and the Multi Plus but after this and seeing all items clearly laid out I'm going to go for the split slept up (MPPT, Gx, Multi Plus and breaker panel).
Thanks Israel, good to hear that helped you make a big decision on your system! Sounds like it's going to be a clean setup.
Thank you, Ross. Very clear and easy to understand. I will be revamping my van's electrical system after seeing your videos. Have a nice day.
Awesome! I'm glad the videos will be helping you revamp things! Thanks for tuning in.
we're just starting our electrics in our van conversion and been trying to get my head around this part of the build and this was so well explained, thank you!!
Hey, awesome to hear this demonstration helped clarify your van conversion electrics. Thanks for tuning in!
Really great explanation and perfect demonstration ! Perfect job, thank you.
Thank you Adam!
Brilliant, clear concise explanation. Well-done.
Thank you!
Good video, well explained, gives me information on the unit they are putting into our motorhome next month, thank you from Australia :)
Hi Raf, great to hear this gave you some info on your new motorhome setup. Thanks for tuning in!
Very helpful video, and cheat-sheet. One question: how wold you integrate alternator charging with an inverter/charger such as this? Directly to the battery?
I love your system very need and simple camera angle is perfect ..too
Thanks Thabiso!
Very good demonstration, thanks! I'm sure you simply wanted to keep things easy, but the delay when switching from inverter to charger ist not because it takes time to detect shore voltage. It is because the Multiplus needs to gradually synchronize the inverters frequency and timing to the shore supply before switching. The more of a difference, the longer this will take.
Great very informative video. Thank you so much.
If my mum was still here, she be thankful that this unit won't stop her using the vacuum cleaner everyday 👍
I'm always seriously impressed with Victron Energy its my favourite & build quality is top, retired Aerospace Defence Hardware Test Qualification Verification Consultant so you know how very fussy we are as electronics engineers 👍
Hi Ross! The videos are super helpful. Thanks!
I’m going to go with solar power and the Victron multipluse for shore power to my trailer conversion.
I would like to add the ability to charge my trolling motor battery off shore or solar. Was thinking of a quick connect system. Like a long cable with an SAE PORT. Where would I add that to these systems?
Oh maaaan, this is exactly what I was looking for. I need such an Inverter charger so I can use it for a backup system for my work from home office.
Good to hear that was helpful! The MultiPlus would be great for a backup system.
Great description!
Thanks Derek!
Thanks very much from London UK
Thanks for tuning in Gerrard!
Well done, thanks for the good explanation. I only wish you would have shown the toaster running with the AC input dial back to a fairly low amperage setting and demonstrated the hybrid mode where the unit was pulling the additional needed power from your batteries to supplement the limited AC input power. Pretty sure the unit can do that, would’ve been cool to see it.
Hey Todd, thanks for the suggestion. It does have that feature, called PowerAssist. I'll definitely keep that in mind for the next video on this topic! Thanks for tuning in.
this is my first time see you, and it WILL NOT BE MY LAST !, its was so nice to see these units on a wall, other then inside some cramped cabinet and the time you took to explained everything, not to degrade anyone, but in lain mans ways, I watch Will on youtube and his very good put he talks more so over my head most of the time and to fast or to technical for me
Thanks Greg! Good to hear you're enjoying my presentation style! It can be hard to present this stuff and have it come across clearly.
Your video is very helpful and I like the 2000W MultiPlus but my question is: the Victron manual suggests a 350-400Ah battery and I own a 200Ah battery. Have you used less of a battery and what to expect. Thanks
Your video is very informative 👌.Can you please show on how the connections goes.
Thanks for watching Mfundo! I will keep that in mind for the next video. I appreciate the feedback!
Great info!
Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Excellent video 😊
Thank you Sam!
The temperature sensor is critical for LiFePO4 batteries as they'll be permanently damaged by charging at 32F/0C or lower (99+% will anyways, there are a very few brands with exotic electrolytes that that can charge below freezing but they're as expensive per Wh as other lithium chemistries and so not very popular)
Very informative, thanks
Thanks Steve!
thanks dude...i know the video is a year old but the content is so helpfull! thanks
Great to hear that was helpful, thanks for tuning in!
I was hoping it would monitor the incoming shore power for brown outs or surges.
Fantastic. Thank you.
Thanks!
Hey Ross. thanks for all you do! Installed two of these units in parallel but finding differing opinions on how to bring shore power in. Run to master then to slave or run to a common and have equal size length and gauge wires to both? Diagram shows AC in daisy chained but a few ppl have said otherwise. Thoughts? Love your vids man.
Hi Thomas, thanks for checking out the videos! I have thus far not put these units in parallel, and see that Victron puts this in the "advanced" category so my advice will be limited. I can tell you that you do not want to daisy chain it, per Victron's advice: www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.bus:manual_parallel_and_three_phase_systems (read the DC and AC wiring section). They also have an installation course on this here: professional.victronenergy.com/online-training/ It's course 9.2 Three-phase & Parallel installation. I hope that helps, good luck with it!
What are the recommended fuses amps for wiring different circuits like microwave, tv, electric stove, etc?
This seems perfect, except I want the AC and Microwave to only work on shore power (not on the inverter). Is there a way to do that?
Hey Ross! Super helpful video. One thing I'm wondering (apologies if I missed this) is that if you're connected to shore power and simply using the inverter as pass through for your electricity, are you still limited to the 2000 watts? We plan to mostly be connected to shore power in our tiny house, and we'd love to be able to run our mini-split and dishwasher at the same time for example. We were looking at the 3000VA Multiplus but aren't sure if it would be powerful enough.
Hi Micah, great question. The MultiPluses of various sizes have a 50-amp transfer switch, and you can connect grid power to them from a 50-amp breaker. They are built to handle this pass-thru amperage, so on paper without inefficiencies, that would translate to about 6000 watts (120V x 50A). The AC-In terminals are built to take up to 6 AWG cable, so if you send in that much power you would need to ensure your cable from the breaker is built to take 50 amps. That would be 8 AWG minimum, 6 AWG ideal, to handle 50 amps. I will typically do 10 AWG and only run 30 amps for vans. So the rated wattage of these units is only referring to their internal inverters, when on grid power it's a different wattage, depending on what you wire in from the grid. Also Victron sells these using the "VA" rating (apparent power, or power on paper), but you will want to look at the continuous wattage rating, which is always lower, and is in their data sheet for each unit. Hope that helps!
Thanks,, first time - I see some neat uses etc. but my van/motorhome already has a power supply and progressive dynamics charger .. but I don't have an inverter yet. have solar and alt power victron but not hooked up yet (too rainy).
Very cool David! The Progressive Dynamics charger should work well. When you get an inverter, maybe throw in a transfer switch. GoPower has a good one for $80. That way your circuits can be fed from the inverter, and it will automatically switch over to shore power when you plug in. Hope things come together when the rain stops, thanks for stopping by!
@@rosslukeman Hmm.... I have a rig in the shop today that has a transfer switch problem. Haven't looked at it yet... but it is switching between generator and shore. Are you saying something about the inverter and using one with shore?
Thanks, so helpfull for me :)
Thanks for stopping by Marek, glad that was helpful!
Brilliant thank you
Thanks Sam!
great info
Thanks!
Very nice and clean presentation!
Can you install 2 of them to get 240v ?
Thanks! Yes you can do various split phase setups with 2 or 3 of these units. I spoke with Peter Kennedy of PKYS (Victron dealer) and he sent me this article about it: www.victronenergy.com/blog/2021/02/02/victronconnect-parallel-three-split-phase-setup-and-more/
There's a neat video at the top showing how you can set up various multi-unit configurations using their phone app. Hope that helps!
So as long as your connected to 110v you could connect to 30 or 15 amp shore power?
Great video 🎉one question if anyone can help please
I see a rcd breaker fitted for the ac in
But would I need another rcd or mcb for ac out the the vans loads ? in the video he hasn’t got one he powers the toaster from the cable out of the multi
I want to do the same but run a cable from the multi to power x2 plug sockets that will use a toaster or kettle only max hair straighteners that is all the inverter will use
It’s 12/1600/70 is it best to fit 16amp rcd ac in and 16amp mcb for ac out ? Thank you would really help to understand this
Does the inverter turn off shore power automatically when the battery is fully charged? to prevent over charging the battery. I didn't see that in the monitor.
Thank you so very helpful, do you have a part number for this unit. This is exactly what we are looking for we are building a moto van with a non 12v A/C and will run of generator / or shore pwr.
Hi Scot, yes here it is at Invertersrus (affiliate link): invertersrus.com/product/victron-multiplus-2000-12v/?ref=7414
@@rosslukeman Thank you
It was about 91% when the toaster was going but then dropped less than 87%. I would have thought the opposite with more loads.
I love your videos! My question is, to add the solar charger, with this multiplus. Does the solar charger just go directly to the battery?
Hey there, thanks for checking out my videos, great to hear you're getting something out of them. The solar charger is similar to the charger shown in this video, and all chargers connect to the bus bars. Nothing should really connect directly to the batteries, as it negates your ability to add breakers/fuses to prevent fires. Each charger should have breakers/fuses and connect to the bus bars or a similar type of distribution point in the system. Hope that helps, thanks for watching-
You have a diagram for that setup right there? And possibly links to where to get what you have on the board there? Great video Thank you subscribed
Hi John, thanks for checking out my video! I have more extensive documentation of these systems in my van power course. You can find out more here: rosslukeman.com/vanpower
This 2000VA can still be plugged into 50A shore power as well, correct? It would only power my RV basically as a 30A source when it's on inverter. Is that correct? I know the 3000 would power both sides of my panel; however, I only plan on using 2 - 100ah lifepo4 batteries and from what I've researched, you need more battery power for the 3000. We feel the 2000 should be plenty for our occasional overnights without shore power.
The temperature sensor can be important with Lithium batteries as well - to disable charging at low temperatures which can damage Lithium batteries.
Here is a Victron blurb about the MultiPlus and Lithium batteries:
Temperature compensation: Charge voltages are not increased or decreased within normal temperature ranges (5°C - 40°C) for lithium batteries. Enabling Lithium mode will disable the normal built in temperature compensation features that are used for lead acid batteries.
The MultiPlus temperature compensation lowers voltage when lead-acid batteries heat up. It does not turn off charge current when lithium gets cold, etc. The shutdown for low temperatures will happen via the batteries' BMS.
@@rosslukeman Hi Ross. Thanks for your reply. It's not a matter of temperature compensation, it's a matter of charging lithium batteries must be disabled at low temperatures. BMS shutdown is for emergencies when the primary systems fail to operate properly, normal operation should not trigger BMS cutoff. The system should not even attempt to charge them at low temperatures. The BMS is a backup protection in case the system fails to disable charging.
@@alanb76 What I'm saying is the MultiPlus does not shut itself down at low temperatures.
@@rosslukeman OK Ross, some experts have said this feature is there, that Lithium mode does provide low temperature charging protection. I have not verified this myself, but I just searched for and found this feature being used and mentioned by Justin Cook of Bay Marine Supply. It may be new and not well known. I'm planning to try it but haven't set it up yet. Hard to keep up with Victron. Thanks for your help and have a good day. :)
Hi Ross, loved the video and all the features of this unit. Would this unit power an induction cook top which is rated about 1800 watts? Which is right on the limit of 1600 continuous watts output.
Hi Robert, it's sort of like an engine that you're taking to the redline to do a task. It will do it but the engine may be a little small for that. The caveat is that if you end up using the stove on a medium setting most of the time, consumption may drop below the 1600 watt rating. If you're really pulling 1800w (or you have other items turned on at the same time, such as a water heater), I would upsize the inverter-charger. Hope that helps!
@@rosslukeman thanks for the quick response Ross. I will look into the larger unit now.. Thanks for the input.
What breaker are you using there? What do you recommend?
Ross,
That was such a great discussion and demo!!! Very helpful!
I have a modest solar 1@165W panel that I will upgrade to a 2nd (maybe 3) this winter.
One question: It relates to having only MODEST Shore Power, like only a 15-20amp 120v, (NOT the 30amp needed for AC) from a a campsite Outlet or a small boondocking Generator...
*** Can we configure (or buy an option) to make this Inverter-Charger draw power from BOTH the "modest shore power" / "small generator" AND the battery system to make up power needs for my normal 30amp services like the Air Conditioning? 🤔
Some of the larger Victron units have the Victron "POWER ASSIST" feature. That would make this unit perfect. 😎
I really don't want to carry a large gas generator, though I do have a SMALL suitcase Inverter Generator (1600w with NEMA L5-30R, 13.3A @ 120V).
Cheers, Eric
Hey Eric, thanks for tuning in, I'm glad you got value from the video. It is my understand that this smaller inverter-charger has the PowerAssist feature as well. As far as I know, they all do. I think that would solve it, and boost the limited grid/generator power for those larger loads. Hope that helps!
@@rosslukeman thank you! This seems like a great option.
Cheers, Eric
@rosslukeman Say Ross, which "Charge Controller" and spec do you recommend for me if I want 600w to maybe one day 800w on the roof?
My current 1@165w Furrion Panel has that "Voc" spec at 20.4V each. I'm not sure I can mix and match different brand panels & specs?
So, my 3 panel winter project would be 165w × 3 panels = 495W. My future 5 panels would give me 825W, and if I understand correctly..., I must add up the Voc's so 20.4 Voc × 5 = 102 Voc as some part of the spec needs???
Is being over the 100W a danger?
Should I just pass on 5 panels and limit them to panels to stay below the 100W?
I ask because... when I looked at one of the Victron Charge Controllers, it said, "SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt" ... I'm guessing the 102W means it's NOT Safe to use the 100|30 Victron??
Also... if I get this right, the 100|30 means it could charge my battery at 30 amp? BUT I thought the Victron MultiPlus did the charging? So I'm confused.
If I get the MultiPlus, do I still need the Charge Controller? If I do, I'm back on the same question ... which one. Just Go Big, or go home, lol? 😳 Victron makes so many.
Ha-ha, I currently have a 12V 230Ah battery & eventually will get another one.
Cheers, Eric
@@erickessler6094 I would be glad to consult with you on this here: www.rosslukeman.com/offerings
Does this have to hang on the wall or can it be laid down ?
Hi, great demo, everything working as per your video but not getting any power from inverter when switched from shore power, can you advise Regards Noel (N. Ireland)
Hello Noel, thanks for checking out my video. You may have put it in the "charger only" setting, which is meant to be for charging batteries on shore power. You would instead need to have it in the "on" setting. That's a first guess, otherwise I would look at the troubleshooting guide for your inverter-charger model and see if any of those topics seem relevant. Sorry, no sure-fire solution comes to mind on this. Thanks for stopping by my channel.
Ross
Can you hook generator power up with this?
Thanks
Thanks for checking out the video Chris!
Great video! Thanks for the fantastic info! I have an older Multiplus Compact 12 2000 80-50 120V for my sailboat. Will that be compatible with the Cerbo GX?
Hi Chris, thanks for checking out the video. I was perusing the Cerbo manual and remembered your comment. Here is what it says: The earliest version of the VE.Bus devices which can be connected to the Cerbo GX is 19xx111 or 20xx111, which were released in 2007. VE.Bus firmware 26xxxxx and 27xxxxx are also supported ...but 18xxxx is not.
That's from page 3 of this: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Cerbo_GX/CCGX__Venus_GX__Cerbo_GX__Cerbo-S_GX_Manual-en.pdf
Hope that helps!
@@rosslukeman thanks for the reply! Are you referring to the unit model itself or the firmware? How will I know what one I have?
Hi Chris, you can find the serial number (shown as 19xx111 or 20xx111 above) inside the front cover on the circuit board. Or on a sticker on the side. Just look for something that starts with 19 or 20. But frankly your unit is probably newer than 2007, which was the cutoff they gave.
Hey Ross, could that AC in power come from a gasoline generator as opposed to an 15 amp outlet? Also could I have the AC out powering a breaker box so that I could have multiple circuits? I also want to set my solar system up to act like a shore power connection to connect my RV's 50 amp cord from a 50 amp circuit in a breaker box to the 50 amp service port of the RV because I am getting a 48v system and I don't want to convert my RV's 12v system. The RV is just used stationary so I don't need panels on the roof or a solar system that is portable. Is that possible?
Hi Keoni, thanks for tuning in. To answer your questions, yes everything you mentioned is possible!
Hey Ross thanks for the video I do have a question, charged my batteries with shore power thinking I might have overcharged then gave me a low battery signal then proceeded to have overload flashing as well when I didn’t have anything plugged in or on in the van. Turned the inverter off in fear of messing up the batteries. Is this a case of the solar panels needing to get more sunlight? Should I plug back into shore power and put it on the charge only setting? Any help would be great!
Hi Joseph, it's hard to tell. I would see what your voltages are doing and if any solar is coming in. The MultiPlus will also flash combinations of its indicator lights for other issues. The manual has a listing of the different light combinations and what they mean. Also I've had a short circuit before trigger the overload light, so if there's any load that's shorting out, it could set off the overload light and drain your batteries. Frankly if the charger is working correctly then I don't think you would need to worry about what solar's doing in this instance. You need to figure out your voltages, turn off breakers to your loads one by one, try to find the culprit. Not sure if I helped here but those are a few thoughts...
I have a “50 amp” rv. If i have a 15amp shorepower only while ataying at say a friends house - will this unit draw from both battery and shorepower to allow me to occasionally draw a larger than 15 amp load.
Hey Patrick, thanks for tuning in. Yes this machine has a PowerAssist feature, so if you tell it to only pull 15 amps from your friend's house, it can supplement that with battery/inverter power. If your system is truly a 50-amp configuration, it should be noted that that's a 4-wire setup, and the machine in this video is single-phase 120V, or a 3-wire setup, so something to look out for. Thanks for tuning in-
A great video! But then it leads to more questions for those who decide to get a MultiPlus: What about a 3000VA versus 2000VA on a 12V system? Some say go 24V if you want a 3000VA, but then you give up alternator charging. Isn't it better to operate well below your device limits? Even if you only go over the 2000VA limit 5% of the time isn't it worth it to have that extra there? What about a kill switch for when you don't need the inverter? I'm sure there's other questions too.
Thank you Tony. Yes in general I use the 3000VA for the reasons you mentioned. Some people "get by" with the 2000VA but to me you are limited and will be using your device at its max capacity oftentimes, depending on what you're running. It depends on what appliances you'll be using I suppose. Switching to 24V is not preferred in my book, although you could get a 12-24V charger to still have alternator charging. People get excited about using smaller wires with the 24V systems, but it introduces other inefficiencies in my opinion in vehicles. On the kill switch, yes I agree you should get the remote so you can turn it off from a convenient location. Great questions, thanks for stopping by-
@@rosslukeman What a great response. Thanks!
do you have 48volt 220v for indonesia regulation
Hi Ross, there is now a 1600VA version of the MultiPlus. How do you rate them?
Hi Stephen, I'm sure they're great units but the inverter rating I find to be a little small at 1300 watts (at 70 degrees F) if we're talking about a van or RV application. Making breakfast is the use-case I would go by personally. Can I run an electric stove, coffee maker, hot water heater (for the dishes) simultaneously? Maybe a microwave? If you run anything at the same time you have to add the wattages together and the inverter must handle that. I also don't like running inverters at their max capacity on a regular basis. So for me, I would not put the 1600VA model in a van or RV, as I would be at or beyond its continuous output rating on a daily basis. Thanks for the question!
Ross. Couple questions for you. Can you split phase the 2000 24v? If so, does it have to be the same exact model? Can I split phase with say a 3000 24v multi?
Hi Brad, yes you can split phase any of them when you do the programming. I would not use different models as the load will be unbalanced as far as I know. Better to use identical units.
Excellent demo! Just wish Victron was more competitive with their pricing!
Thanks! They are some of the top products in the world, but you are right definitely not the cheapest.
I purchased The VC Framework - PDF Guide for $7 yesterday but do not know how to access that document.
I'm sorry. I was able to access and download it.
Hi Les, thanks for purchasing the VC Framework, and great to hear you were able to access it. Let me know if you need anything else!
Thanks,
Ross
Can I connect an Ip22 30 amp charger and the 12volts 3000 inverter together or it's over kill?
You could do it but the wiring is going to be messy. You would go from 120 to 150 amps of charging. I don't know if it's really worth it. You could always upsize the inverter-charger and get one with a bigger charger than 120 amps. Like the Quattro, but it's a lot more money.
When we turned on the shore power, the charge controller started screaming, and the feed in was 1.5kW, but the battery was full, and still the charge controller was screaming. We pulled the plug and haven't been brave enough to try again. Any ideas?
Hi Geoff, it sounds like it might have been a high-voltage alarm on the charge controller? Assuming it has one. You will want to match the charge voltages if you can, between the shore power charger and the solar charge controller. That is the only thing I can think of. If the battery is full then all chargers should shut down independently, they don't make each other scream typically. Good luck with it.
the toaster just plugged in and its at 4 Watts, boy that just shows the phantom power that electronic steal power just plugged in and could shorted ones battery life when needed power on boom docking
Thanks for checking out the video Greg, great point there! In general it's good to shut down this equipment when not in use to avoid any phantom loads as you've observed, and to eliminate any power consumption from the equipment itself. Thanks for the comment!
Does the Victon Inverter chargers have Chargers have Bluetooth? I want one WITHOUT bluetooth. Thanks!
Hey there, no they don't have Bluetooth by default. You have to add the VE Smart dongle to give them Bluetooth, so you should be go. Thanks for tuning in!
@@rosslukeman Thank you!!
@@AltLiving Glad to help
Hello I have the Multiplus 24V/2000VA/50-32 230V Inverter/Charger - Victron Energy
Can I automatically trigger the start of my generator to recharge if the battery drops?
thank you
I am not completely sure on that. The MultiPlus is able to be set up as a battery monitor if it's the only charger connected to the batteries. It does have a relay that could potentially be programmed to turn on the generator at a certain battery state of charge. I would look at the manual. If the MultiPlus can't do it, or you have multiple charge sources, then you could get a battery monitor that has its own relay (such as BMV-712) and that could trigger the generator.
So where can this be purchased, can’t find it anywhere
I just did a search and couldn't find them either! I ran across mine at PKYS, where I get most of my Victron items. Here is the product page: shop.pkys.com/pmp122200100
Only things I don't like is the VA rating to the real Watt. and only 1 outlet. The 2000 isn't 2000 but 1600 for example ... I just ordered one of these as a budget restriction is in play.
Yes the VA thing kind of throws people off. The 1600 watts true power vs 2000VA (apparent power) would be a .80 power factor. However it appears the power factor goes down as the unit heats up. I suppose they are reluctant to label it with a specific wattage as it changes based on conditions. The Victron people are sticklers for details.
What is the difference between the old and the new one? And wich is better?
As far as I know they just redesigned the case and dropped the price $75. They also quit calling it MultiPlus Compact and just call it MultiPlus 1200VA now, which was the output rating of the old model.
@@rosslukeman new casing its nice and flat il go for 24 5000w one
Can we charge and discharge the battery at a same time
Yes
is this the same with a 12 3000 120t victron running 120 V and 12 V power?
Yes that unit will wire up pretty much the same.
What about the power faster of this inverter
Please see the data sheets at victronenergy.com for full stats on this equipment.
Can this be used for 24 V systems? Is there a 3000W model?
Hi Joe, yes what Jamie said, they have the 3000VA model that comes in a 24V edition. It puts out 2400w continuous, 6000w peak. Beyond that they have the 24V 5000VA Quattro, which does 4000w continuous, 10000w peak. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment!
@@rosslukeman Thanks Ross; can I purchase Victron components through you and can you supply a custom "complete" design schematic for my Ford transit Van with factory auxiliary 250 A alternator charge system and 400 amp solar? Thanks! Great videos; keep them coming!
@@joenovak9366 thanks for inquiring, at this time I do not sell the components, but I do have a course on these systems, that includes parts lists. You can find out more at rosslukeman.com/vanpower. The course is not van brand specific but I have worked on Transits and can answer specific questions on that model. Thanks for checking out my videos, more on the way!
Can you turn off the inverter charger and just run off 12 volts?
Hi Bob, yes your 12-loads should run autonomously directly off of the batteries and don't need the inverter-charger, although the full story is that the charger also feeds the 12-volt loads as it's trying to charge the batteries. But yes they will run with this component turned off with no problem. Great question, thanks for tuning in!
@@rosslukeman Thanks. Do you know any authorized installers in the Portland ore area?
Hi Bob, I don't really but here is the Oregon listing from the Vanlife Outfitters Directory: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/search-result/?directory_type=general&q=&in_cat=256&custom_field%5Bstate%5D=OR
Hope that helps!
Maybe you can help me I'm looking for someone that can help me install my small solar power system that I have on my box van I need someone in Washington that's familiar with a viltron energy solar charge controller and distributors going into a 48 volt inverter it has 5 solar panels on the roof each are 370 watt for as total of 1850 watts all together. So do you know anyone in Washington state that can accurately hookup this system???
Hey David, thanks for reaching out. I would check out AM Solar, or the directory of installers on VanlifeOutfitters.com. A lot of great options on there. Hope that helps, good luck with it!
fuse on the wrong side of iso switch?
The fuse is close to the battery, or the source of the power.
Does that model not have power assist?
It does have the PowerAssist feature. Thanks for checking out the video!
so the grey box on the left, could that be a power control center like this “Mighty Mini” The Compact All-In-One System…AC/DC Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter with built-in Charge Wizard®, to get on the road with my 7x14 trailer, till I can get the Batteries, and I guess if I was not going to charge any batteries I wouldn't have to get the one with a batter charging unit , THANK WILL BE WATCHING FOR THE NEXT VIDEO AND SHARING
Hi Greg, the grey box is just a breaker for the incoming 30 amp shore power. If you were to use the MultiPlus inverter-charger shown in this video, it has the battery charger in it, so you would not need the converter with Charge Wizard from Progressive Dynamics. The converter is just a 120V to 12V charger, which the MultiPlus has. You would just get the PD5000 from Progressive Dynamics, it's got the AC/DC distribution (for 12V fuses and 120V breakers), without the battery charger. Hope that helps!