I ordered the replacement servos with o-rings for my 2004 Explorer which had trouble shifting into 2nd (had to let off the throttle to get it to shift) and the overdrive light would flash. Installed the replacement o-ringed servos and now it shifts perfect! Took a couple hours to install. This fix is worth every dollar!
Just ordered my servos right now, did the valve body with a few modifications (bypass thermo cooler valve/fulltime cooling, bigger booster valve/progressive spring), and the updated solenoid pack. Still had 3-4 flare up, although my 1-2 and 2-3 were better than ever after the valve body and solenoids. Going to use a friends shop to install so the trans jack will be handy. Pan drop showed no metal on magnet and nothing in pan, fluid clear and not smelling burnt. My hopes are high. going to do band adjustment at same time as servo fix. If you adjust bands make sure to read ford tsb on how many turns, my late model mustang 2007 is 1 1/2, older explorers are 2. Wish I researched the cars problems before I bought mine in 2008, live and learn I guess. It's been a great "learning" experience so far. Went from novice to master mechanic in ten years.
To be safe we recommend 1-1/2 turns to all installs. It just shifts firmer which is probably why they changed it on later models? Thanks for the comments.
Thanks Andrew I think this is a great fix. The original failure is do to the design flaw on the servos not being champhored. The square edges cut into the housing. The o rings are a great solution. My question is are you champhoring the new servos? If not why? I would not pay for inserts on a rebuild if there just putting in the same stock servos. Are you modifying these servos or just cutting in the o ring groves? Why or why not? Anyways after I finish my inspection I will be buying these either way. Well unless the band is broken. Ug. Then I'll be looking at resleving and a modified servo with the bevels or champhoring. I hope I can be a future customer.
Allen, for sure the sharp edges cause a lot of the wearing but even without sharp edges the hard shaft rubbing on the aluminum still wears it just not nearly as fast. The short answer to your question is our servos are machined with radiuses on all the edges. The edges for the o-rings and the edges on the reduced diameter for the fluid path. That severely reduces the rate of wear along with the o-rings fixing the wear issue that already took place. -- Andy
I had the symptoms of under normal driving it shifted fine. But under wot it’ll bounce off rpms and only shift if I let off the throttle. Now reverse and drive don’t work. Only 1,2,3 manually on my 05 Auto GT. Would this be a fix to it?
What I don’t get is that am I supposed to adjust or loosen the servo band adjustment screws in any way before I take out the servos pins out ? Or just leave it and then do the servo band adjustments?. I’ve heard of the servo band anchors falling out and then needing to dissemble the trans if that happens in order to put the anchors back in place. Thank you
We always recommend doing a band adjustment before you do anything to make sure the bands are not broken or breaking. During that process, you should only use up a thread or less of the adjuster. Any more than that the band is breaking or broken. Also, after that is done or if you choose not to do that, we want you to loosen the bands 2 turns before you take the old servo out. That helps keep the strut aligned during installation. Then you would do another band adjustment after installation. The only time we have heard of bands falling off is for broken bands but it is a small risk either way.
What does “use up” a thread or less mean? That if you have to turn the torque wrench too far the band is messed up? Also, you mention 2 turns after torquing, but the manual for the 2010 explorer says 1.5 turns back. Is that right? Thanks
Hi, I replaced the servo with your kit and had to remove it because I forgot the spring. When I pulled it out the plastic sleeve was pushed down to the base of the servo. Is it suppose to be like that or do it need to cover the hole on the pin?
When you pull the servos out you will wreck the front oring and you will need to replace it. The sleeve is just for oring resizing and to act as a ring compressor so the orings come out from under the sleeve and into the bore without damage. The sleeve does not go into the bore. You should remove the orings, replace them if damaged, and then push the sleeve back over the orings. The reinstall the servos.
Thinking about ordering both servos, had a intermediate band break, trans has 256000 on it. Never had shifting problems the hole time but since I’m rebuilding it was thinking about installing them as a precaution, any advice would be appreciated.
If it has been bushed and sleeved already I would just rebuild it and put it back. Our kit would slow down wearing in both cases but you may not have any worn bore issues for quite some time. You can always put our kit in after.
Have you ever seen a snap ring start to come out of the groove? My explorer developed an ATF leak and I notice the snap ring was almost half way out of the groove on the large bore. I need to get a better look, but it looks like the groove is intact. I am not sure if I can just push the cap back in and reseat/replace the snap ring or if it is a sign of a much bigger problem. My servo bores were repaired about 200.000 miles ago. The transmission was working fine until the fluid leaked out.
Most of the time that happens it is because of too much return pressure. When they pop out a lot of times it is because the pressure relief valve in the pump housing is stuck closed when it is supposed to open which will cause too much pressure. It is a known issue with the valve design. If your fluid is really dirty the only chance you have to fix it is to replace as much of the fluid with new and hopefully the detergency of the new fluid will help unstick the valve. Other potential issues are with the solenoid pack.
@@andrewwanie7094 I suppose I don't have much to lose by changing the fluid. Isthere an additive or a particular fluid that has a better chance of working? What are the conditions that cause the pressure...shifting? acceleration? I am wondering if I should drive it a certain way to try to free it up.
Hi there. I did the fix and the transmission shifted beautifully! For a week. Last night I lost reverse, it drives forward when in neutral, got an overheating warning in dash, etc. Any thoughts on what the possible issue could be would be most helpful
@@andrewwanie7094 I followed the directions exactly. I have the pipe socket from you and everything. Like I said I did the adjustment, should I try it again? I'm not 100% on the adjustment, to be honest. But likening said it was shifting perfectly and then all.of the sudden bang issues way worse than before. It is going forward when I shift in neutral
@@andrewwanie7094 I could definitely use any insight you may have. I am at a loss. Maybe the filter totally clogged up? I am going to pull it tomorrow and see... it was is making a whining noise that wasn't present before and I've read that's indicative of a clogged filter
@@jameskellerstedt2259 Did you fix the going forward when in neutral? Did you look at the shift cable when the bracket was removed to do the band adjustment is it back on in the proper place? Doing out kit would not cause an issue like that but if the cable came off or broke or??? It would do something like that.
@@andrewwanie7094 I haven't tried anything yet. I did take the bracket off when I did the band adjustment but when I put it back it worked fine. How could it just break while driving? This occured initially while driving, transmission said it was overheating..... and when I parked had no reverse and moving in neutral. I will check the linkage, but I dont see how it could move while engaged and driving. I was thinking clogged filter, it hasn't been changed yet since putting in the new servo
Excellent Video clip . Where can I buy the servo born to replace my current that I think it is no good . My car is Ford Explorer -4.0 / year 2010 ( Intercept for Sheriff car ) 110 .000 Miles . Thank for your help . Sincerely Your
I have a customers 2007 Sport Trac that is stuck in 3rd (Limp mode) and has lots of pressure and solenoid codes. I did this fix in my explorer and it fixed it. My explorer always had a trans studder and one day O/D light started flashing and was stuck in 3rd. This one doesn’t feel like it’s shifting out of 3rd at all. This is a 2007. Mine was a 2003 so maybe it’s just new technology making it different from mine. Could this potentially fix it with my symptoms?
@@matthewgig108 In that case I do not think it is the servos. Did the customer have any issues they mentioned before this happened or did this happen all at once? It is probably time to drop the pan and see what you can see.
@@andrewwanie7094 this is what he told me “It was January & very cold - around zero. The truck had not been driven in about a month. I drove to Reasors nearby & it was ok. As I drove back, it seemed stuck in 1st gear. I manually shifted & drove very slow coming back. I'm not really sure what gear it was in, but probably 3rd”
Just getting it to come out evenly, possibly lots of penetrating oil, small screwdrivers on each side, and last resort start the vehicle for a few seconds, and possibly putting in d2 or d3 for a second then shut it off. Will make a little mess with some loss of fluid.
It will slow down the wearing but not stop it. Eventually, you will still need to remove our kit and put new orings on it. The only difference is that will happen a lot longer down the road vs doing nothing and waiting for the problem to happen.
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer, I have this same exact problem but with bad slippage and high rev ing when changing to the next gear, if it changes, would this still fix it?
Probably but to make sure you should do a band adjustment to make sure the band is not broken. Directions for that are at the end of our installation directions on our site. If the band is good you will only use up a thread or so of the adjuster during the process. www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com
I have a 4r44e and I have a 2-3 shift flare when my car is at operating temperature only, I am thinking my IM servo bore is bad, do you agree? Would this kit help me? Is there a way to buy only one servo? Thanks!
Depending on mileage and other factors the flare could be caused by worn bores. However, another common problem with that series is blow out valve body baskets especially if the symptoms are migrating from one thing to more. If you have over 150,000 miles then our kit would be a good place to start however we do not sell them individually just in sets.
My vehicle has only 130,000 miles. I have done more research, and agree that it is more likely that my valve body gasket is bad. I will be installing new gaskets, as well as a TransGo shift kit and new EPC solenoid. If this does not solve my problem then I will also buy these modified servos as well and see if that works. Thank you for your help. I will update after the gasket change if it is fixed.
That is not a big deal. It would be a little harder to put the servos in and by not loosening the strut may not stay aligned. You can loosen it now and you will be fine.
I got your kit a year ago for my 04 Explorer with the 5r55w. Having the issue where it flares to shift from first to 2nd and it wont shift into 5th (OD)... Haven't installed your kit cause I'm having issues understanding the band adjustment..Which servo should I replace also?
If you are having issues with the same gears, the OD or front servo is the one to replace right away. If you go onto our website www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com, You can download the directions which explains in detail how to do the band adjustment. The procedure is pretty easy. Also, you should read the directions fully in order to have the best chance at success of the full install.
If you are referring to the one you are seeing in the video that is specific to a certain year vehicle. If the part you got from us looks just like the one you took out it is correct. If the part is different, then your transmission may have been swapped out at one point and we will need to get you the correct part.
I have a 2006 XLS with 123,000 miles. The transmission shifts erratic at times. Like shifting 2-3 revs and then shifts if you get off the gas or shifts into third and then flares. Its not always consistent but had been getting worse. Was worse after being out of town on a trip for a few hours and then shifting weird after coming back into town. On the highway it will shift out of overdrive and then not go back into overdrive unless you hit the gas and back off. Doesnt throw any check engine or any other lights though. I have NO idea where to start here. Thoughts? Please. Thank you!
Usually symptoms start with overdrive then go into the 1-2 shift. Starting with a 2-3 shift is more rare unless there is a lot of city driving on the vehicle. I would 1st do a band adjustment on both servos. During the adjustment you should only use up a thread or less of the adjuster. If you use more than that you have a breaking band, less than one they are good and I would recommend out kit as a 1st step.
@@andrewwanie7094 I'll have to make sure its the 2-3 but it def is 90% in town driving, short trips at that(mainly my Wife driving maybe a mile to work, and then back home). Also, the Reverse to Drive engagement seems like its taking longer than it used to. I was reading other questions here, what about valve body gasket? Shift kit? EPC Solenoid? Thank you VERY VERY much for your time and info, it really is invaluable because I am so lost on where to start! EDIT: I'll have someone check the band adjustment. Thank you for giving me direction!
@@MrHeem94 Given your city driving it for sure can be worn bores. All the other things are possibly but far less likely. I would for sure start with our kit after the band adjustment checks out.
I have 02 Ford Explorer 4.0.. My tranny totally skips 2nd gear from 1st gear and skips to 3rd gear. I have to gas the vehicle to 3000rmp for that change to occur on quick acceleration.. otherwise on slow accel, it will skip to 3rd gear at about 2000-2500 rpm.. Would that also require that kit?
That is one of the symptoms for worn bores which our kit will fix. 1st recommendation would be to do a band adjustment to make sure your bands are not broke or breaking. If you still can go into D2 your band is not broke. Also if you can still get some over drive that is a good sign also.
I have an 05 explorer shifts good 123 goes in drive for a while then it free wheels can put in neutral pull back in drive may work good for a while will servos fix this
Does not sound anything like worn bores. Hate to say it may be a OD sprag which is a 1 way bearing that the cage may be broke and it is slipping. The key to saying that is it is if it happens in more than one gear where it free wheels/at different speeds.
There are two different OD servo possibilities for the 2002-2010 Explorer Family. One will have steel caps and one aluminum. If you have a 2002 we check by VIN which one it is. All other years they are the same unless you get into older models.
hello this servo issue can cause jerky from 2 nd to 3rd gear and slow to engage after coming to a stop or coasting down to a lower gear, feel like lag n get confused to drop gear
It can cause a shift problem you described but the slow to engage or costing is another problem possibly two. You may have a sticking pressure relief valve or a bad coast clutch. Best thing to do is drain and drop the pan and take a look.
@@andrewwanie7094 hi thanks for quick answering, I've got my kit today, but the servos don't have orings under the white sleeve, should I install them?
@@complex_variation if you removed the sleeves and they are not there we have never had that happen but if that is the case you will need to put on the spares.
Just installed the kit yesterday and did the band adjustment as directed. Have driven about 30-40 miles with absolutely no change . still do not have 2nd or OD. Any suggestions or help would be super appreciated. Thanks
If the adjustment used up more than a thread of the adjuster or so you most likely have a breaking band. If you can compare the amount of threads on the front OD servo to the ones on the rear intermediate one and get back to me.
Hey there I'm currently removing the the old servos but I can't get one of the caps off to remove it from the transmission and the other one the cap is off but I just can't pull the servo out if tried with the smooth side of a drill bit but It just won't budge and yea the snap rings are out please help
If you have exhausted all possibilities in getting the cap off you can start the vehicle and put it in D2 for the front servo or D3 for the rear with your foot on the brake for a second then turn it off. It should pop the cap out and make a bit of a mess. Then as to getting the servo out the best way is to pound a nail set which has a tapered end on it into the hole in the servo. It will wedge in there hard enough to give you more to pull on in an outward direction.
@@andrewwanie7094 i finished it yesterday and went for a test drive its a little better but I know it takes a little bit to break in but I'm still getting a check transmission light what could cause this
Got 5r55w when shifting into 3rd has to be at 30 mph and I got to let off the gas let the rpms go down and then give it gas and it shifts if I punch the throttle it will come out of gear what could this be I have a code for pressure control A I’m being told that it’s my servo bore
If you are sure it is 3rd and not 2nd that is the servo that almost always never goes bad before the 2nd/OD servo. In that case I would highly recommend doing a band adjustment. Directions for that are at the end of our installation directions on our site (www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com). If you can adjust the bands with only 1 to 1-1/2 less threads showing from where they currently are then the band is probably good and I would put our kit in. If you cannot hit the 120 in.lbs. then the band is broke if you have more than 1-1/2 threads less the band is breaking. Each of these cases would require rebuild. If you confirm and change it to being a problem with 2nd then I would go with our kit. -- Andy
Andrew Wanie I’m most positive it’s 3rd I’m still driving it I count from take off shifts into 2nd and I have to get the truck to 30mph before it wants to shift to 3rd I’m a little lost if the band is broke would it go into 3rd and up
If it is broke you would never get 3rd but it could be breaking and you still could which is why we recommend attempting the adjustment and seeing the difference in thread count.
Andrew Wanie quick question, I'm only doing the OD, does the Y pipe need to be touched to do this? I haven't had a look under the truck, so I figured I'd just ask here really quick first
I have a 98 ford ranger and when it starts up the car runs smooth but after a while the od off light starts flashing on the dashboard and when it goes from 1st to 2nd gear it shifts pretty hard. The light goes off every time i start the car. Could this help it? $200 is quite a bit of money.
One of three things . Torn servo seal, Worn Servo Bore, Or torn valve body gasket. If this happened all at once and never progressed from odd shifts to really bad ones over a longer period of time it might be torn servo seal or blown valve body gasket. If it progressed it still might be torn seal or worn bores.
1st sorry you had issues but if the transmission had worn bores, you installed them correctly including a band adjustment it works 100% of the time. If the transmission was misdiagnosed, that is something we cannot control. We are always here to help and are sorry you did not get with us with any of your issues.
@@cesara.cebada435 The orings will only cut if you try to remove them. When you push them in quickly the orings will not get cut but when you pull them out they come out too slow and they extrude into the hole in the bore and shear off. The procedure is to push them in quick and leave them in. If you need more orings email us and we will send out some more.
I ordered the replacement servos with o-rings for my 2004 Explorer which had trouble shifting into 2nd (had to let off the throttle to get it to shift) and the overdrive light would flash.
Installed the replacement o-ringed servos and now it shifts perfect! Took a couple hours to install. This fix is worth every dollar!
Awesome to get another Happy Customer! Happy Shifting!
Just ordered my servos right now, did the valve body with a few modifications (bypass thermo cooler valve/fulltime cooling, bigger booster valve/progressive spring), and the updated solenoid pack.
Still had 3-4 flare up, although my 1-2 and 2-3 were better than ever after the valve body and solenoids. Going to use a friends shop to install so the trans jack will be handy. Pan drop showed no metal on magnet and nothing in pan, fluid clear and not smelling burnt. My hopes are high. going to do band adjustment at same time as servo fix. If you adjust bands make sure to read ford tsb on how many turns, my late model mustang 2007 is 1 1/2, older explorers are 2.
Wish I researched the cars problems before I bought mine in 2008, live and learn I guess. It's been a great "learning" experience so far. Went from novice to master mechanic in ten years.
To be safe we recommend 1-1/2 turns to all installs. It just shifts firmer which is probably why they changed it on later models? Thanks for the comments.
Is this DIY install possible on a 06 Mustang with 5R55S? Or is it a shop only kinda deal?
It is DYI if you consider removing the drive shaft cross member and dropping the tail end of the tranny down
Can you do this in a Mustang chassis, I know the SUV has a little more room to work, I am suspecting I will have to remove the transmission?
It requires a partial tranny removal to get enough access.
Thanks Andrew I think this is a great fix. The original failure is do to the design flaw on the servos not being champhored. The square edges cut into the housing. The o rings are a great solution.
My question is are you champhoring the new servos? If not why? I would not pay for inserts on a rebuild if there just putting in the same stock servos. Are you modifying these servos or just cutting in the o ring groves? Why or why not?
Anyways after I finish my inspection I will be buying these either way.
Well unless the band is broken. Ug.
Then I'll be looking at resleving and a modified servo with the bevels or champhoring.
I hope I can be a future customer.
Allen, for sure the sharp edges cause a lot of the wearing but even without sharp edges the hard shaft rubbing on the aluminum still wears it just not nearly as fast. The short answer to your question is our servos are machined with radiuses on all the edges. The edges for the o-rings and the edges on the reduced diameter for the fluid path. That severely reduces the rate of wear along with the o-rings fixing the wear issue that already took place. -- Andy
@@andrewwanie7094 That's good to know. Thank you. I hope to be placing an order at the end of the week.
will this work on a low mileage transmission before the issue starts?
It will work and slow down the wearing but if it is really low and there are not a lot of miles per year I would just let it go.
Right on thinking about buying this but I dont know if it will fix my vehicle :/
I had the symptoms of under normal driving it shifted fine. But under wot it’ll bounce off rpms and only shift if I let off the throttle. Now reverse and drive don’t work. Only 1,2,3 manually on my 05 Auto GT. Would this be a fix to it?
Andrew, why don’t you remove the O2 sensor? Any concerns not doing it? Thanks!
No concerns about doing it just it can be a real pain to remove them and the wire is the only thing that is in the way. Your call.
What I don’t get is that am I supposed to adjust or loosen the servo band adjustment screws in any way before I take out the servos pins out ? Or just leave it and then do the servo band adjustments?. I’ve heard of the servo band anchors falling out and then needing to dissemble the trans if that happens in order to put the anchors back in place. Thank you
We always recommend doing a band adjustment before you do anything to make sure the bands are not broken or breaking. During that process, you should only use up a thread or less of the adjuster. Any more than that the band is breaking or broken. Also, after that is done or if you choose not to do that, we want you to loosen the bands 2 turns before you take the old servo out. That helps keep the strut aligned during installation. Then you would do another band adjustment after installation. The only time we have heard of bands falling off is for broken bands but it is a small risk either way.
What does “use up” a thread or less mean? That if you have to turn the torque wrench too far the band is messed up? Also, you mention 2 turns after torquing, but the manual for the 2010 explorer says 1.5 turns back. Is that right? Thanks
Hi, I replaced the servo with your kit and had to remove it because I forgot the spring. When I pulled it out the plastic sleeve was pushed down to the base of the servo. Is it suppose to be like that or do it need to cover the hole on the pin?
When you pull the servos out you will wreck the front oring and you will need to replace it. The sleeve is just for oring resizing and to act as a ring compressor so the orings come out from under the sleeve and into the bore without damage. The sleeve does not go into the bore. You should remove the orings, replace them if damaged, and then push the sleeve back over the orings. The reinstall the servos.
Thank you
Thinking about ordering both servos, had a intermediate band break, trans has 256000 on it. Never had shifting problems the hole time but since I’m rebuilding it was thinking about installing them as a precaution, any advice would be appreciated.
If it has been bushed and sleeved already I would just rebuild it and put it back. Our kit would slow down wearing in both cases but you may not have any worn bore issues for quite some time. You can always put our kit in after.
Have you ever seen a snap ring start to come out of the groove? My explorer developed an ATF leak and I notice the snap ring was almost half way out of the groove on the large bore. I need to get a better look, but it looks like the groove is intact. I am not sure if I can just push the cap back in and reseat/replace the snap ring or if it is a sign of a much bigger problem. My servo bores were repaired about 200.000 miles ago. The transmission was working fine until the fluid leaked out.
Most of the time that happens it is because of too much return pressure. When they pop out a lot of times it is because the pressure relief valve in the pump housing is stuck closed when it is supposed to open which will cause too much pressure. It is a known issue with the valve design. If your fluid is really dirty the only chance you have to fix it is to replace as much of the fluid with new and hopefully the detergency of the new fluid will help unstick the valve. Other potential issues are with the solenoid pack.
@@andrewwanie7094 I suppose I don't have much to lose by changing the fluid. Isthere an additive or a particular fluid that has a better chance of working? What are the conditions that cause the pressure...shifting? acceleration? I am wondering if I should drive it a certain way to try to free it up.
Hi there. I did the fix and the transmission shifted beautifully! For a week. Last night I lost reverse, it drives forward when in neutral, got an overheating warning in dash, etc. Any thoughts on what the possible issue could be would be most helpful
How did you do the band adjustment when you did it?
@@andrewwanie7094 I followed the directions exactly. I have the pipe socket from you and everything. Like I said I did the adjustment, should I try it again? I'm not 100% on the adjustment, to be honest. But likening said it was shifting perfectly and then all.of the sudden bang issues way worse than before. It is going forward when I shift in neutral
@@andrewwanie7094 I could definitely use any insight you may have. I am at a loss. Maybe the filter totally clogged up? I am going to pull it tomorrow and see... it was is making a whining noise that wasn't present before and I've read that's indicative of a clogged filter
@@jameskellerstedt2259 Did you fix the going forward when in neutral? Did you look at the shift cable when the bracket was removed to do the band adjustment is it back on in the proper place? Doing out kit would not cause an issue like that but if the cable came off or broke or??? It would do something like that.
@@andrewwanie7094 I haven't tried anything yet. I did take the bracket off when I did the band adjustment but when I put it back it worked fine. How could it just break while driving? This occured initially while driving, transmission said it was overheating..... and when I parked had no reverse and moving in neutral. I will check the linkage, but I dont see how it could move while engaged and driving. I was thinking clogged filter, it hasn't been changed yet since putting in the new servo
Excellent Video clip . Where can I buy the servo born to replace my current that I think it is no good . My car is Ford Explorer -4.0 / year 2010 ( Intercept for Sheriff car ) 110 .000 Miles .
Thank for your help .
Sincerely Your
www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com
Thanks for the video and the parts. Very well done.
I have a customers 2007 Sport Trac that is stuck in 3rd (Limp mode) and has lots of pressure and solenoid codes. I did this fix in my explorer and it fixed it. My explorer always had a trans studder and one day O/D light started flashing and was stuck in 3rd. This one doesn’t feel like it’s shifting out of 3rd at all. This is a 2007. Mine was a 2003 so maybe it’s just new technology making it different from mine. Could this potentially fix it with my symptoms?
1st is it a 5R55E or a 5R55S? A lot of later models are 5R55S
@@andrewwanie7094 I believe it’s a 5R55S.
@@matthewgig108 In that case I do not think it is the servos. Did the customer have any issues they mentioned before this happened or did this happen all at once? It is probably time to drop the pan and see what you can see.
@@andrewwanie7094 this is what he told me “It was January & very cold - around zero. The truck had not been driven in about a month. I drove to Reasors nearby & it was ok. As I drove back, it seemed stuck in 1st gear. I manually shifted & drove very slow coming back. I'm not really sure what gear it was in, but probably 3rd”
I would check the bands and if they are not broke or breaking I would put our kit in.
Can In do this on a 2010 Mustang without having to partially remove the transmission?
No it has to be partially removed there is not enough room without doing so.
Any advice on removing a stuck servo cap?
Just getting it to come out evenly, possibly lots of penetrating oil, small screwdrivers on each side, and last resort start the vehicle for a few seconds, and possibly putting in d2 or d3 for a second then shut it off. Will make a little mess with some loss of fluid.
@@andrewwanie7094 well definitely try it out thank you
Can I install these parts as a preventative measure? And if so, would I still need to adjust the bands even if they weren’t slipping?
It will slow down the wearing but not stop it. Eventually, you will still need to remove our kit and put new orings on it. The only difference is that will happen a lot longer down the road vs doing nothing and waiting for the problem to happen.
@@andrewwanie7094 How long can we expect the O rings to last please? So we know when to replace them. Thanks!
@@jrm163 Most get around 70K but depending on habits could be 40K or so.
Do you by chance have a listing of mechanics who are familiar with this process? I’m located in Los Angeles…
There is a list of potential installers on our website. www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/directionsinstall-guide.html
You rock… thanks 🙏🏼
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer, I have this same exact problem but with bad slippage and high rev ing when changing to the next gear, if it changes, would this still fix it?
Probably but to make sure you should do a band adjustment to make sure the band is not broken. Directions for that are at the end of our installation directions on our site. If the band is good you will only use up a thread or so of the adjuster during the process. www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com
I have a 4r44e and I have a 2-3 shift flare when my car is at operating temperature only, I am thinking my IM servo bore is bad, do you agree? Would this kit help me? Is there a way to buy only one servo? Thanks!
Depending on mileage and other factors the flare could be caused by worn bores. However, another common problem with that series is blow out valve body baskets especially if the symptoms are migrating from one thing to more. If you have over 150,000 miles then our kit would be a good place to start however we do not sell them individually just in sets.
My vehicle has only 130,000 miles. I have done more research, and agree that it is more likely that my valve body gasket is bad. I will be installing new gaskets, as well as a TransGo shift kit and new EPC solenoid. If this does not solve my problem then I will also buy these modified servos as well and see if that works. Thank you for your help. I will update after the gasket change if it is fixed.
Do you have to adjust the bands before removal of the servo?
It is a good idea to always do that to assure the bands are in good shape.
Can this be used before the servo bore is severely worn?
Yes it can as a preventative slow down to the problem.
I have a 2008 Explorer...do I need to remove the 02 sensor or just disconnect it??
Just disconnect it to give some room to move the shield around.
I forgot to loosen the bands before removing the covers, what would be the problem with that?
That is not a big deal. It would be a little harder to put the servos in and by not loosening the strut may not stay aligned. You can loosen it now and you will be fine.
Thank you for your reply, greetings and thank you for your video, I hope the truck works well again👍@@andrewwanie7094
Is the servo installed with the white sleeve or without?
With it, it acts like a ring compressor for the orings then slides up out of the way and does nothing after install.
I got your kit a year ago for my 04 Explorer with the 5r55w. Having the issue where it flares to shift from first to 2nd and it wont shift into 5th (OD)... Haven't installed your kit cause I'm having issues understanding the band adjustment..Which servo should I replace also?
If you are having issues with the same gears, the OD or front servo is the one to replace right away. If you go onto our website www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com, You can download the directions which explains in detail how to do the band adjustment. The procedure is pretty easy. Also, you should read the directions fully in order to have the best chance at success of the full install.
@@andrewwanie7094 thanks
What are the symptoms of a 2005 4.0 mustang with low fluid?
Bought your od kit but the servo does not seal into the cap it has no rubber on it. Did I buy the wrong one
If you are referring to the one you are seeing in the video that is specific to a certain year vehicle. If the part you got from us looks just like the one you took out it is correct. If the part is different, then your transmission may have been swapped out at one point and we will need to get you the correct part.
I have a 2006 XLS with 123,000 miles. The transmission shifts erratic at times. Like shifting 2-3 revs and then shifts if you get off the gas or shifts into third and then flares. Its not always consistent but had been getting worse. Was worse after being out of town on a trip for a few hours and then shifting weird after coming back into town. On the highway it will shift out of overdrive and then not go back into overdrive unless you hit the gas and back off. Doesnt throw any check engine or any other lights though. I have NO idea where to start here. Thoughts? Please. Thank you!
Usually symptoms start with overdrive then go into the 1-2 shift. Starting with a 2-3 shift is more rare unless there is a lot of city driving on the vehicle. I would 1st do a band adjustment on both servos. During the adjustment you should only use up a thread or less of the adjuster. If you use more than that you have a breaking band, less than one they are good and I would recommend out kit as a 1st step.
@@andrewwanie7094 I'll have to make sure its the 2-3 but it def is 90% in town driving, short trips at that(mainly my Wife driving maybe a mile to work, and then back home). Also, the Reverse to Drive engagement seems like its taking longer than it used to. I was reading other questions here, what about valve body gasket? Shift kit? EPC Solenoid? Thank you VERY VERY much for your time and info, it really is invaluable because I am so lost on where to start! EDIT: I'll have someone check the band adjustment. Thank you for giving me direction!
@@MrHeem94 Given your city driving it for sure can be worn bores. All the other things are possibly but far less likely. I would for sure start with our kit after the band adjustment checks out.
@@andrewwanie7094 Thank you, you've given me direction. It is MOST appreciated. It will be remembered ;)
I have 02 Ford Explorer 4.0.. My tranny totally skips 2nd gear from 1st gear and skips to 3rd gear. I have to gas the vehicle to 3000rmp for that change to occur on quick acceleration.. otherwise on slow accel, it will skip to 3rd gear at about 2000-2500 rpm.. Would that also require that kit?
That is one of the symptoms for worn bores which our kit will fix. 1st recommendation would be to do a band adjustment to make sure your bands are not broke or breaking. If you still can go into D2 your band is not broke. Also if you can still get some over drive that is a good sign also.
Thanks Andrew, I'm going to make that adjustment over the weekend and if anything, will post an update here as well. Cool!
Can u do one changing the tansmision fluid
Not sure what you mean?
@@andrewwanie7094 He means showing how to change the transmission fluid...these are a bitch to change the fluid in..
I have an 05 explorer shifts good 123 goes in drive for a while then it free wheels can put in neutral pull back in drive may work good for a while will servos fix this
How many miles are on it? Sounds like you may have a clutch issue which would require rebuild?
Andrew Wanie about 80000 this is a reman from Ford
Does not sound anything like worn bores. Hate to say it may be a OD sprag which is a 1 way bearing that the cage may be broke and it is slipping. The key to saying that is it is if it happens in more than one gear where it free wheels/at different speeds.
Andrew Wanie drive is the only gear it happens in although it sometimes slow going in reverse
Sounds like internal issues not related to servos. I would drain and drop the pan and see what is going on.
I've been told there are 2 different Overdrive Servo sizes, how can you tell the difference without removing the old one??
There are two different OD servo possibilities for the 2002-2010 Explorer Family. One will have steel caps and one aluminum. If you have a 2002 we check by VIN which one it is. All other years they are the same unless you get into older models.
@@andrewwanie7094 I have a 2003, I'm assuming it's the piston with the metal cap and not the rubber cap
@@jeffthejinjer That is correct
Would this fix the reverse?
It can help a small delay going into reverse but if you do not have reverse or have bad slipping in it then no.
Does this kit come with the white plastic piece that goes on the servo bore?
Only on the 5R55W/S/N series
How it works...? Pleae
hello this servo issue can cause jerky from 2 nd to 3rd gear and slow to engage after coming to a stop or coasting down to a lower gear, feel like lag n get confused to drop gear
It can cause a shift problem you described but the slow to engage or costing is another problem possibly two. You may have a sticking pressure relief valve or a bad coast clutch. Best thing to do is drain and drop the pan and take a look.
@@andrewwanie7094 is it dangerous to leave this servo issue? can cause solenoid damage and all transmission parts?
@@fandi-ke2nv It is not dangerous but if you have worn bores eventually you will burn up your bands and burn your fluid.
What are the spare orings for? I haven't seen on the videos where to install them.
They are spares some are already installed under the white sleeves that stay on during installation.
@@andrewwanie7094 hi thanks for quick answering, I've got my kit today, but the servos don't have orings under the white sleeve, should I install them?
@@andrewwanie7094 ohhhh no i see them now!!! They are beneath the sleeve
@@andrewwanie7094 thanks!!!
@@complex_variation if you removed the sleeves and they are not there we have never had that happen but if that is the case you will need to put on the spares.
Just installed the kit yesterday and did the band adjustment as directed. Have driven about 30-40 miles with absolutely no change . still do not have 2nd or OD. Any suggestions or help would be super appreciated. Thanks
If the adjustment used up more than a thread of the adjuster or so you most likely have a breaking band. If you can compare the amount of threads on the front OD servo to the ones on the rear intermediate one and get back to me.
@@andrewwanie7094 I will check on that and get back to you. Thank you for the reply
Hey there I'm currently removing the the old servos but I can't get one of the caps off to remove it from the transmission and the other one the cap is off but I just can't pull the servo out if tried with the smooth side of a drill bit but It just won't budge and yea the snap rings are out please help
Never mind got it all done just took a little bit
If you have exhausted all possibilities in getting the cap off you can start the vehicle and put it in D2 for the front servo or D3 for the rear with your foot on the brake for a second then turn it off. It should pop the cap out and make a bit of a mess. Then as to getting the servo out the best way is to pound a nail set which has a tapered end on it into the hole in the servo. It will wedge in there hard enough to give you more to pull on in an outward direction.
@@andrewwanie7094 i finished it yesterday and went for a test drive its a little better but I know it takes a little bit to break in but I'm still getting a check transmission light what could cause this
@@bushpig6383 Did you do a band adjustment after that is critical. Directions are on our site at the end of our installation directions.
@@andrewwanie7094 yes I did adjust the bands as directed in the installation guide from your website
Got 5r55w when shifting into 3rd has to be at 30 mph and I got to let off the gas let the rpms go down and then give it gas and it shifts if I punch the throttle it will come out of gear what could this be I have a code for pressure control A I’m being told that it’s my servo bore
If you are sure it is 3rd and not 2nd that is the servo that almost always never goes bad before the 2nd/OD servo. In that case I would highly recommend doing a band adjustment. Directions for that are at the end of our installation directions on our site (www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com). If you can adjust the bands with only 1 to 1-1/2 less threads showing from where they currently are then the band is probably good and I would put our kit in. If you cannot hit the 120 in.lbs. then the band is broke if you have more than 1-1/2 threads less the band is breaking. Each of these cases would require rebuild. If you confirm and change it to being a problem with 2nd then I would go with our kit. -- Andy
Andrew Wanie I’m most positive it’s 3rd I’m still driving it I count from take off shifts into 2nd and I have to get the truck to 30mph before it wants to shift to 3rd I’m a little lost if the band is broke would it go into 3rd and up
If it is broke you would never get 3rd but it could be breaking and you still could which is why we recommend attempting the adjustment and seeing the difference in thread count.
Andrew Wanie I’m going to give it a shot thank you for the help and information
Do you still sell the 5r55e kit?
Yes on our website www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com
How can I purchase your modified snap ring tool?
www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/store/p18/Long-Handle-Right-Angle-Modified-Needle-Nose_Pliers.html
just got my AJ1E OD replacement part... wish me luck! 😁
Good luck let us know how it goes!
Andrew Wanie quick question, I'm only doing the OD, does the Y pipe need to be touched to do this? I haven't had a look under the truck, so I figured I'd just ask here really quick first
No it does not take a look at the video and the instructions for the best detail.
Andrew Wanie yeah, sorry... it says it pretty clear in the printed instructions. sorry again lol
No worries!
I have a 98 ford ranger and when it starts up the car runs smooth but after a while the od off light starts flashing on the dashboard and when it goes from 1st to 2nd gear it shifts pretty hard. The light goes off every time i start the car. Could this help it? $200 is quite a bit of money.
One of three things . Torn servo seal, Worn Servo Bore, Or torn valve body gasket. If this happened all at once and never progressed from odd shifts to really bad ones over a longer period of time it might be torn servo seal or blown valve body gasket. If it progressed it still might be torn seal or worn bores.
2004 explorer with no reverse... every other gear works,no lights on dash.. where do i start looking for fix. Beatz are Bangn
Start with dropping the pan and then the reverse servo assembly. See if the band is broke and if not see if the reverso servo assembly is OK
Thanks
how do i test the reverse servo assembly? band looks ok. i put a used one in and im have same results
is there a band adjustment i can do?
Used reverse servo assembly you put in?
Liked the older music better.
Don’t work
1st sorry you had issues but if the transmission had worn bores, you installed them correctly including a band adjustment it works 100% of the time. If the transmission was misdiagnosed, that is something we cannot control. We are always here to help and are sorry you did not get with us with any of your issues.
The o rings is in body valve
@@andrewwanie7094 wait the o ring is cutting
@@cesara.cebada435 The orings will only cut if you try to remove them. When you push them in quickly the orings will not get cut but when you pull them out they come out too slow and they extrude into the hole in the bore and shear off. The procedure is to push them in quick and leave them in. If you need more orings email us and we will send out some more.
An you send me extra orings ?
Just send your vehicle to the junkyard where it belongs. FORD = Junk.. never again
You going to buy a new car for me so I can ? Yeahhhh...
"Sure just throw it away and shell out for a new one" - Some idiot