Awesome videos and excellent work, Gary. I am definitely subscribing. I am trying to learn about automatic transmissions and I have already learned a lot by watching your videos. I’m intrigued because I recently replaced the transmission in my wife’s 2003 V8 AWD Explorer with a reman unit from Advance Auto, which I believe is provided by ETE. Ever since Install we have had an issue with a bang/clunk shift if you were to raise your foot off the accelerator a second before it goes to 1-2 shift. The biggest issue with it though is highway passing acceleration. If you press down on the accelerator to call for a downshift both transmission and engine do nothing for about 2-3 seconds. I’ve tried resetting keep alive memory to relearn shift points about 3 times now and have had no luck. We did not have these issues with the original transmission. Under normal and even heavy use it shifts perfect. I am very upset over it. I don’t know if it could have been something I did or didn’t do during the installation. What do you think could cause these issues? Thanks!
Thank you for the help you have given me I cannot say enough. I'm still working on my 05 mountaineer awd 5r55s. It had no 2md or od. Cracked it open and the od planetary was bad. Replaced all the bad parts, flushed her out and prepped it for reinstall. Just got it in amd filled up. Ran and drove great for about a week and after some mileage pulled it in and wanted to do a quick filter change just in case anything circulated around and washed into the pan. Simply dropped the pan, changed the filter making sure grommets on both ends of the filter are secure and put 4 quarts from the bottom plug with a pump to start and warm her up. For some reason it wont move or engage in any gear. Pulled the 2 cooler lines up front and dropped them in a bucket to see if anything is pumping and nothing comes out. I checked filter again for seat and cracks and tried again and nothing. I am utterly stumped amd sick to my stomach.. I feel like I'm missing something really obvious here but I'm out of ideas.. Ty in advance..
Great video Gary.Can you please do a video on a tear down of a 4L60E with common problems of these transmissions if you get one in the shop in the future.I have a 4L60E that a need to go thru in the future.
I have one of these transmissions in a Lincoln LS. It will not go in reverse when hot and also loses some forward gears. I pulled the pan, and it was very clean, no metal or clutch material at all. Should I just plan on a complete overhaul, or is there a way to test the clutch and bands with air?
Hey Gary, I appreciate all your videos. How much metal in a transmission pan is acceptable? My 5r55s has some on it but was wondering for future reference what is considered acceptable and what is excessive?
Thanks john, will do. Actually i normally do that, shop is so busy working 7 days, had to throw the video together, i try to upload every sunday. Thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro I'm just thinking that lots of folks have Ford Explorers with trans problems and look them up on UA-cam, but most have no idea what a 5R55S is. Same with other brands. Thanks again for your awesome videos.
Hey Gary. I fixed a reverse / broken band on a Explorer 20,000 miles ago. 5r55e. Ran perfect for 20,000 miles. Started having soft shifts. Now I believe I have a broken input sprag. Would get a flare from 3rd to 4th gear. Would a one-way clutch fail slowly causing soft shifts and flares?Or do you think I had a solenoid problem or intermediate band problem/Servo that broke the one way clutch?
Thank you so much for this! Long shot but hoping I could have your educated guess on our issue? 2006 Mustang V6 (5R55S) w/190K miles - P0765 - P0768 - P1717 - Shifting is sometimes slow or harsh from 2-3(?), but not always I’ve ordered a solenoid pack that we plan to put in tomorrow, but as you can imagine I’m not very optimistic it’ll work. Does anything jump out at you as the likely issue? Obviously I’d love to be able to limp this car along without pulling the transmission out, but I’d also like to not waste a bunch of time and money throwing parts at it if they aren’t going to resolve the problem. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have for me!
@@GaryFerraro Wow thank you for the response! No we haven't done that, but will do so first. If I don't find anything obvious in the harness connector, do you suggest going ahead with the solenoid pack?
@@GaryFerraro Haven’t tested this specifically. They may come back as “pending” right away but the check engine light will usually stay off until the first drive cycle. Oddly, one time the CEL turned off on its own but then came back on a week later. It’s my son’s car and he said he didn’t notice any difference in performance or shifting while it was off. But he’s 16 and may not have enough experience to know what to pay attention to. Of course I’ve driven it myself and I’ve noticed sometimes it seems “abrupt” and sometimes there’s a bit of “flare” between gears but whatever it is feels inconsistent and intermittent to me. Often it works just fine. That being said I’ve not driven any other mustangs so I’m not 100% sure what “fine” is haha. It sure SEEMS like it could be an intermittent electrical issue but automatic transmissions are the one part of a car I don’t feel confident diagnosing.
...unfortunately my son (and his car) are with his mom right now so I can't test this immediately. But as soon as he gets here we'll clear the codes and see if they come back. If so (or if not), does it change our approach? I guess if they immediately come back it further suggests some electrical problem?
I had an 03 ranger that when i stopped it keep trying to go. with heavy brake pressure i could lock the front tires but the rear would spin and hop until i put it in neutral or shut it off, it didn't do it often but it was scary that first time
What state are located? 2 weeks i had a 04 ranger 4.0 4wd transmission rebuilded and when i got it back it was still doing the same thing, so i had to drop it down again and sent it back to the shop and they said drum was bad, so they sent it back to me and got it back in truck and is doing same thing, p0733 so now im looking at this video and i am gettin a better info from you than getting a good transmission from this guys Would be good to have one done by you !
@@GeneralMechanicGA ok, P0733 Gear error in 3rd, if this trans is a 5R55S 3rd gear is the rear band. Front band is 2nd and 5th and the rear band is 3rd.
Gary, i'm not sure what the hell is wrong with my transmission in my explorer, i have a strong feeling it's the torque converter since the noise is coming from the transmission area, even when it's in neutral and park.. It gets signifcantly worst whenever i shift it and put a load. Sometimes if i accelerate too quickly it will develop a thumping almost like i have a flat tire. It sounds like god damn tractor is the best way i can describe it, like grinding metal. I've had people say it sounds like a diesel because of it lol. It's a grinding almost marble bouncing in a fish bowl kind of clanking. It doesn't happen when it's cold, only after 1-2 minutes after startup and right away if i start it and drive immediately.
@@GaryFerraro No never, it just gets louder or quieter. It will do it from a start while it's warm, but not cold it's weird. It also can either be a steady grinding noise or kinda pulse almost like it's the sound of diesel lifters clacking. My thinking is possibly the flex plate bolt or plate just being cracked in general. Or just a failing torque converter. idk i've thrown the parts cannon at it.
@@GaryFerraro I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but i assume you're asking does the noise stop when it's hot. Not really, also after hearing it again it's more like a raddling metallic noise that turns into and almost grinding noise when accelerating. I've never heard it stop after it's warmed up, it slows down if i'm in neutral or park.
I think I have a defective tcm but the dealer doesn’t wanna warranty it because they didn’t do the installation They want me to put it back on the truck and have them do the diagnostic
That is the only way they will warranty the body for you, so no more converter code? I read somewhere else similar problem and the tcm was defective. Do you have a scan tool that shows live data, you can watch the sensor to see when it faults
Hi Gary, great videos, if don't mind would you tell me which brand rebuilt kit recommend for my 5r55n trans..., So many brand are up there 😵, to be close to original Ford, thanks again Gary.
And would you tell me what you think about high energy carbon bands, thanks again. www.ptptrans.com/5r55w-5r55s-5r55n-transmissions-3-band-set-high-energy-carbon-bands-fits-ford/
Be nice, if you have a store or something like that, give me a address, I got the low mileage unit, and trying to rebuild it right, Nothing wrong with it now, but we know how problematic that unit is 😵, and I decided to perfect rebuild, so far I porches superior shift kit new o/d, I/m, and L/r, bonded servos, plus sunnax servo pin bore sleeve kit, need to take to machine shop, plus (new) solenoid block. End I found the transtec rubber & gasket set, Like you said,www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071J52822/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3B850ZGIPDG3A&psc=1 And I'm doing research about the carbon high energy bands, that is the plan, it is my mother car, Lincoln ls, tell me if that bands worth something, it's better than original Ford bor not, thanks again Gary 🏎️
My 05 mustang with this same transmission shifts completely fine in all forward gears but reverse takes exactly 15 seconds to engage…no more no less and it only does this when the engines warmed up. When reverse does engage it’s very smooth it doesn’t slam into gear…Also it will go into reverse immediately with no delay when cold starting. I’ve already changed the filter and replaced the fluid twice. No flashing O/D light, no check engine light and no slipping/delayed gear engagement in drive. Just this weird problem with reverse. It’s been this way for almost a year since I bought the car and it hasn’t gotten any worse. What in the world could be causing this???
@@GaryFerraro can the valve body and solenoid pack be replaced by just removing the transmission pan? I remember you can see them when you drop the pan but can they be removed from the outside as well without removing the entire trans?
I have a 2008 mustang v6. For some reason, I don’t have a reverse or drive. But I can drive my car In the 1st 2nd or 3rd and my car only works in drive if I’m going at least 40mph, and I shift it into drive from 3rd. I changed the fluid thinking it was probably just bad. There wasn’t any metal shavings. There’s no codes. Some people saying it’s the overdrive sprag or some type. I’m clueless on what the issue is. Just don’t wanna spend thousands on a new transmission.
And also, when I do put it into 1st gear, it takes like 3 seconds for it to engage and my car kinda jerks foward. If you can shine some light, it would help a lot
@@GaryFerraro when I took the pan off, there really wasn’t any metal in it. It looked fine. But one video, the guy said his overdrive sprag was bad with the same problems I’m having
I have a problem with my 2007 ford explorer. the check engine light is off. Sometimes I use my car then I turn it off, then when I come back like in 20 minutes to turn my car on, and put it on drive my car feels like if it is brake, and I accelerate it really hard. After of 1 minute of hard acceleration the car is normal again. Sometimes it smells like burn trans fluid too. Idk what it can be.
02 explorer 4.0 4x4. No leaks tranny fluid and transfer case fluid both look good. Don’t smell burnt . But my transmission out of no where lost all gears like it’s weak while driving . Your thoughts?
@@GaryFerraro even reverse is out. And no noises . At first I thought I could hear the torque converter possibly spinning lose but I think I’m mistaken. I’m pretty sure there isn’t any noises
Thanks Gary, my 06 5R55S Mustang GT is not downshifting or dropping a gear at 3/4 throttle? I have to floor it to drop a gear or two while driving around town. I installed a TCI aftermarket ratchet shifter so it would drop a gear manually if I bump it. I have replaced with Motorcraft fluid, servo and New ford filter on the transmission. Does it need rebuilding? Other than that everything else works fine?
I have 2007 mustang V6 Automatic started having trouble accelerating out of nowhere anything above 3000rpm or 4mph has hard time and it wouldn’t go in reverse, I changed the ATF fluid and filter it kinda worked but still having trouble any input? 194xxx miles I have the check engine light on and the O/D light has been flashing since I bought it last year. P0420 code only
Say a vehicle comes in with only a p0740. Otherwise drives and shifts great but won't lock up. Has around 200 rpm slip at 100% commanded on. All the powers and grounds are there and everything ohms out okay. Also, say it's a full retail job that requires the customer paying full parts and labor for everything. 1) Would you ever try just throwing a converter at it? 2) Is it reasonable to assume that a hydraulic issue/leakage would cause only a partial slip of the TCC and not a full slip in most cases? 3) Or if the lockup clutch is completely roasted and unable to hold at all is that usually just caused by a different problem? And only replacing the converter will usually result in the new one burning up as well? 4) Or does it all depend on the particular trans? Sometimes I hate dealing with lockup issues. There are so many sources for problems in the lockup circuit. If you go after the root cause right away you can save the customer a lot of money. But if you don't get it right and they're paying full re&re labor then you can quickly end up costing them more money than if you just did the rebuild right away...
When ever i get on in with that code i sell them a trans, too many issues can cause this code so i address everything. That is a very high slip for 100%. How many miles?
@@GaryFerraro I was just pulling numbers out of the air. More of a general question to feel out your experiences and not about a specific vehicle. It's good to hear that you try to opt for the whole trans. I've been leaning towards that route myself. Just wasn't sure if I was jumping the gun by making that call. I remember one particular nightmare 545RFE that was having issues releasing the lockup. It belonged to a good friend of the shop owner so time/labor wasn't an issue. Ended up being caused by a faulty solenoid pack we installed a few months prior. The pack wasn't even aftermarket. Got it straight from the dealer. But ya, that truck kicked my butt...
I got a question ok I got a 2001 4.0 the transmission is going out ok I have a 1010 Ford Sport Trac with a 4.0 what I wanted to know is will the 2010 transmission work in the 2001 Sport Trac ?
Please help. Had the transmission rebuilt on my 06 explorer 6.0 4x4. Shifts well in all gears. After warmed up and shift in reverse, it's very harsh. Only in reverse.
@@GaryFerraro Brand New not sure about OE I had a friend do the work and it's giving him a hard time. The only thing we can think of is replace the entire unit
Hi Gary I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier 4.0l I rebuilt the transmission due to coolant contamination and I replaced the valve body with one from the dealer , but the one they send me is a hitachi valve body and the one that the truck has was a bosh unit they are telling me that some of these trucks they updated the valve body and they said that that’s the correct valve body so I installed it on the truck and the truck never had fifth gear and I was getting a code P0717 for the input speed sensor. I dropped the transmission one more time to inspect everything and the input clutches were burn maybe because I drove it for like about three miles and I don’t know if the valve body is the one that was causing the problem Ok I believe so I clean and replace solenoids in the original valve body but I keep getting a code P0744 I forgot got to mention I replace the tcc solenoid with an after market and no change the code reset after a few miles of driving Any advice on how to solve this problem I try two torque converters and the truck seems to be shifting fine and not really familiar with the scan data I really need some help if you can help me Thanks in advance
@@aviator1683 Fix the forward clutch first, either that is making the code show or the TCM is defective. With the new valvebody/tcm your still getting converter code?
Hi Gary my 05 explorer xlt thumps into reverse but only sometimes. forward gears are all great. the shop said it was the transfer case not the transmission does that sound accurate? 4th gear is fine I think. Seems pretty minor but i don't want to cause more damage how long can I drive on it safely? Shop said it was ok for a while
Hello Gary my name is Aaron and I bought a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 liter V-6 with the 5R55S automatic transmission the seller thought that the transmission needed replaced so I questioned how this came to be he said I drove it to work the transmission shifted smooth without any signs of failure so I did a little research and found out about doing the ford transmission reset and after giving the seller #600 he was expecting me to have my ride tow me out of his drive way but I did the reset and it worked I drove away well the seller was quite confused as to me how anyway I ended up having to do this rest on 3 more accessions and this last time I went to do it and nothing still no movement when I shift it into any gear and there is no engine check light I hooked up a code reader and no codes show up any suggestions would be very highly appreciated as to what is going on with my explorers transmission (
Also interested. 05 Mustang GT 05/17/05 5r55s . No movement in any range. P1000. Turbine speed is good with eng rpm. Live data shows pressure to all pc solenoids, have yet to plug into the block for true pressure. Dropped pan to inspect, clean fluid clean filter. Don’t know who touched it last while this customer had this vehicle down, hasn’t been registered for a year. My guestimate is a clean break of the O/D sprag, or I’m just looking at clean fluid. Waiting on auth for tear down.
Correct after I did this transmission reset where you turn the key to on position then apply the break and shift the shift lever into neutral and turn the key to the off position wait 30 seconds then put the shifter back into park and turn the key back to the on position wait another 30 seconds then turn the key to the off and right back to run and start the vehicle and after doing that reset it work for 4 times each time the vehicle started up and the transmission shifted smooth as butter no transmission noise no check indicator light on the dash and no engine codes bought a transmission fluid line / port test gauge and started it up but the gauge showed no pressure in any gear that I shifted the shift lever into the only thing that has changed since the 3 reset when I last drove it for about 2 weeks is when I was jacking my explorer up with the floor jack under the front cross member I didn't notice that the rubber pad that's on the jack had came off the jack while sliding it under the front of my SUV which ended up causing the jack to slip off the cross member and right up under the radiator cracking the side seems so I went to the wrecking yard and bought another used radiator to replace the one on the explorer I had to burn off the old original factory transmission cooler line fittings because I don't know if you have had the privilege of using the various tools that they sell to release the quick fittings but I couldn't get the fluid line to release so I had no other choice but to unscrew the cooler line fitting from the radiator not realizing that if you make the mistake as I did unscrewing both fittings out of the bottom of the radiator that the metal cooler falls down inside the radiator and if the task of getting ahold of the piece inside the radiator isn't hard enough I spent the next two hours trying to screw the fittings and trans fluid cooling lines into the used replacement radiator and come to find out the factory used a fitting that is pressed into place and the thread pattern is different than the only company that sells the fittings for any where from $30 to $40 for one brass fitting that has a one way clip inside of it but I ended up loosing a couple quarts of transmission fluid out of the lines doing the radiator change and hooking up the cooler lines back into the replacement radiator with no fluid in the lines nor in the bottom of the radiator would that much air in the transmission cooler lines be enough to cause the transmission to quit pumping to explain a lose or no pressure in the transmission therefore causing the no engagement into any of the gears including reverse ?
Hi' Gary 'have a problem with my 07 ford explorer transmission was going good and then a day after parked started up ready to go and it didn't move from that no codes on dashboard can you point me in the right direction to what to check?
Mine is skipping 3rd. New servo bushing new servo piston. Fire and ground where it needs to be in the harness. Computer checks good. Has no codes. Fluid isn't burnt or anything. Oh and we've tried 3 solenoid packs. Do you have any idea what the problem may be? This is insane i know its something so silly im missing. Please if anyone has any clue I'd appreciate it. Its been rebuilt twice. Everything is new that should be.
@@GaryFerraro I pressure checked it with the valve body off to see how the engagement looked and it appeared to hold pressure. Its hard to get down in that vein its in with the normal tip so i took it off and wrapped tape around to get as good a seal I could and it seemed to hold. Just won't hold in between 2nd and 4th for some reason lol
@@GaryFerraro I ohm tested solenoid b wire from the pcm connector to the solenoid pack connector terminal for sol b and it read .5, and for whatever reason.. when I try it in another hole I get a random reading from other terminals in the connector while up at the top of the vehicle im attempting a simple ohm test on the sol b wire using test leads. It's like there's an open circuit in the harness. But its crazy bc it literally does not set any codes. But it communicates data fine for all solenoids and everything. Im not a professional but I know there's something I'm missing here. Thanks for the reply man
@@GaryFerraro It won't set any codes, yet it reads data perfectly on my dads snap on solus edge. And will run every on off test and everything. It just specifically skips 3rd gear. Like tries to go in flares and puts you right into 4th. Skips on the way back down too
I have codes P0798 and P0968 with O/D flashing My 3-4 and my reverse bang into gear I replaced the solenoid pack and wasn’t it Can you please give an idea on what it could be ?
@@GaryFerraro 2008 Ford Mustang gt 4.6L V8. Yes if I try to clear them it comes back Right away. The P0798 is pressure control solenoid C electrical and the P0968 is pressure control solenoid C control circuit/open
@@chrisbenavides8475 ok, so straight up electrical problem, Solenoid pack did not work, may be the control wire for solenoid C, Right front of engine compartment is a fuse box check fuse #39 15 amp fuse. Do you know the location of the PCM, I can get you the wire color for the Solenoid C control
@@GaryFerraro How come you don’t think that’s ok? I’ve tried with 3 different shops and they said there’s no point in fixing the trans and better be off buying a reman trans
@@johntorres2362 Just don't know what your getting, you will have to pay to have it installed, if there is a problem with it would you have to pay again to install a replacement unit?
@@GaryFerraro it’s from a website remantransmission they offer 5 year warranty. Mines acting up @ 85k miles. I have no codes that show up. Could it just be my servo bore wearing out?
@@charleshanlin318 do you mean it shifts hard on the 1-2 shift or a harsh engagement into drive from park? are there any codes present for the transmission? check engine light on?
I need your expert opinion. I’m looking to replace my 5R55S in my 2005 Lincoln LS Sport but wanting to buy a rebuilt transmission that addresses Ford’s shortcomings. Which direction would you point me in? Your opinion means ALOT in my decision btw.
Hi Shawn, what problem are you having, reason i'm asking is because these computers go bad a lot on these cars and cause transmission problems. Do you have harsh engagements and hard shifts?
@@GaryFerraro And how would I even go about getting another transmission computer? I LOVE my car and want to get it back on the road but don’t want to spend triple the value of the car to get it back on the road
Great video Gary! This video on is even more jam packed with info than the previous video you made on this particular trans! Always a pleasure!
Thanks Cuba, Always nice to hear from you. Thanks for watching
Awesome videos and excellent work, Gary. I am definitely subscribing. I am trying to learn about automatic transmissions and I have already learned a lot by watching your videos. I’m intrigued because I recently replaced the transmission in my wife’s 2003 V8 AWD Explorer with a reman unit from Advance Auto, which I believe is provided by ETE. Ever since Install we have had an issue with a bang/clunk shift if you were to raise your foot off the accelerator a second before it goes to 1-2 shift. The biggest issue with it though is highway passing acceleration. If you press down on the accelerator to call for a downshift both transmission and engine do nothing for about 2-3 seconds. I’ve tried resetting keep alive memory to relearn shift points about 3 times now and have had no luck. We did not have these issues with the original transmission. Under normal and even heavy use it shifts perfect. I am very upset over it. I don’t know if it could have been something I did or didn’t do during the installation. What do you think could cause these issues? Thanks!
maybe they didn't re-bore the casing where the servos go in? aj1e has a kit for that
Thank you for the help you have given me I cannot say enough. I'm still working on my 05 mountaineer awd 5r55s. It had no 2md or od. Cracked it open and the od planetary was bad. Replaced all the bad parts, flushed her out and prepped it for reinstall. Just got it in amd filled up. Ran and drove great for about a week and after some mileage pulled it in and wanted to do a quick filter change just in case anything circulated around and washed into the pan. Simply dropped the pan, changed the filter making sure grommets on both ends of the filter are secure and put 4 quarts from the bottom plug with a pump to start and warm her up. For some reason it wont move or engage in any gear. Pulled the 2 cooler lines up front and dropped them in a bucket to see if anything is pumping and nothing comes out. I checked filter again for seat and cracks and tried again and nothing. I am utterly stumped amd sick to my stomach.. I feel like I'm missing something really obvious here but I'm out of ideas.. Ty in advance..
Did you ever figure out the issue
the connector on the selenoid pack or the connector on the pcm and i thinks it is the frist one on the pcm to the top to the bottom.
Great video Gary. I like your content.
Thanks Jose
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching
Bonjour Gary
Désolé pour cette absence, mais c'est toujours un plaisir de regarder tes vidéos
Thank you
Que dice??
Great video Gary.Can you please do a video on a tear down of a 4L60E with common problems of these transmissions if you get one in the shop in the future.I have a 4L60E that a need to go thru in the future.
ok, may have a teardown already but i will do common problems in the future when one comes in
Thanks so much for video greetings from tulua Colombia
Thanks for watching, Greetings from New York
I have one of these transmissions in a Lincoln LS. It will not go in reverse when hot and also loses some forward gears. I pulled the pan, and it was very clean, no metal or clutch material at all. Should I just plan on a complete overhaul, or is there a way to test the clutch and bands with air?
Thanks as always sir got a 2005 Rav 4 with a po750 code
may have a bad computer, i would not drive this car, the bad computer can take the trans out. how long this code is there?
Hey Gary, I appreciate all your videos. How much metal in a transmission pan is acceptable? My 5r55s has some on it but was wondering for future reference what is considered acceptable and what is excessive?
ell, you will always have some, i guess some shavings on the magnet but the pan itself should be fairly clean
Nice video. Thank you. I think you might get more views if you add a vehicle description along with the trans ID on the title of the video.
Thanks john, will do. Actually i normally do that, shop is so busy working 7 days, had to throw the video together, i try to upload every sunday. Thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro I'm just thinking that lots of folks have Ford Explorers with trans problems and look them up on UA-cam, but most have no idea what a 5R55S is. Same with other brands. Thanks again for your awesome videos.
@@johnz8210 you are correct John and thank you for watching
Hey Gary. I fixed a reverse / broken band on a Explorer 20,000 miles ago. 5r55e. Ran perfect for 20,000 miles. Started having soft shifts. Now I believe I have a broken input sprag. Would get a flare from 3rd to 4th gear. Would a one-way clutch fail slowly causing soft shifts and flares?Or do you think I had a solenoid problem or intermediate band problem/Servo that broke the one way clutch?
Thank you so much for this!
Long shot but hoping I could have your educated guess on our issue?
2006 Mustang V6 (5R55S) w/190K miles
- P0765
- P0768
- P1717
- Shifting is sometimes slow or harsh from 2-3(?), but not always
I’ve ordered a solenoid pack that we plan to put in tomorrow, but as you can imagine I’m not very optimistic it’ll work. Does anything jump out at you as the likely issue? Obviously I’d love to be able to limp this car along without pulling the transmission out, but I’d also like to not waste a bunch of time and money throwing parts at it if they aren’t going to resolve the problem.
Thanks in advance for any advice you might have for me!
These are all electrical codes, have you unplugged the solenoid wiring harness to check that for corrosion? I would start with that
@@GaryFerraro Wow thank you for the response! No we haven't done that, but will do so first. If I don't find anything obvious in the harness connector, do you suggest going ahead with the solenoid pack?
Question. If you clear the codes do they come right back?
@@GaryFerraro Haven’t tested this specifically. They may come back as “pending” right away but the check engine light will usually stay off until the first drive cycle. Oddly, one time the CEL turned off on its own but then came back on a week later. It’s my son’s car and he said he didn’t notice any difference in performance or shifting while it was off. But he’s 16 and may not have enough experience to know what to pay attention to.
Of course I’ve driven it myself and I’ve noticed sometimes it seems “abrupt” and sometimes there’s a bit of “flare” between gears but whatever it is feels inconsistent and intermittent to me. Often it works just fine. That being said I’ve not driven any other mustangs so I’m not 100% sure what “fine” is haha.
It sure SEEMS like it could be an intermittent electrical issue but automatic transmissions are the one part of a car I don’t feel confident diagnosing.
...unfortunately my son (and his car) are with his mom right now so I can't test this immediately. But as soon as he gets here we'll clear the codes and see if they come back. If so (or if not), does it change our approach? I guess if they immediately come back it further suggests some electrical problem?
I had an 03 ranger that when i stopped it keep trying to go. with heavy brake pressure i could lock the front tires but the rear would spin and hop until i put it in neutral or shut it off, it didn't do it often but it was scary that first time
What state are located?
2 weeks i had a 04 ranger 4.0 4wd transmission rebuilded and when i got it back it was still doing the same thing, so i had to drop it down again and sent it back to the shop and they said drum was bad, so they sent it back to me and got it back in truck and is doing same thing, p0733 so now im looking at this video and i am gettin a better info from you than getting a good transmission from this guys
Would be good to have one done by you !
Im in New York? are you in or near the New York Area?
Gary Ferraro
No really near but imma tell you if I ever decide to do my 4R100 on my 01 F250 i will not hesitate in sending it to you!
Im in GA
@@GeneralMechanicGA ok, P0733 Gear error in 3rd, if this trans is a 5R55S 3rd gear is the rear band. Front band is 2nd and 5th and the rear band is 3rd.
What can be, not engaged 4 and hit into reverse, works great from 1 to 3.
direct clutch pack may be bad, this clutch pack is on in 4th and reverse, how does the oil look?
Can you replace a Ford Sport Trac 5R55S AL2P 7000 CA, with one from an Explorer 5R55S 9L2P 7000 CA? Are they compatible?
That i wouldn't know, you may have to call the dealer with the vin numbers to find out. Are the years the same? engine sizes the same?
Hey Gary, Where did you learn to build transmissions and how many years did it take for you to train?
I started back in the 80's where it was much simpler, i would say about 2 years
Gary, i'm not sure what the hell is wrong with my transmission in my explorer, i have a strong feeling it's the torque converter since the noise is coming from the transmission area, even when it's in neutral and park.. It gets signifcantly worst whenever i shift it and put a load. Sometimes if i accelerate too quickly it will develop a thumping almost like i have a flat tire. It sounds like god damn tractor is the best way i can describe it, like grinding metal. I've had people say it sounds like a diesel because of it lol. It's a grinding almost marble bouncing in a fish bowl kind of clanking. It doesn't happen when it's cold, only after 1-2 minutes after startup and right away if i start it and drive immediately.
does it ever stop moving hot
@@GaryFerraro No never, it just gets louder or quieter. It will do it from a start while it's warm, but not cold it's weird. It also can either be a steady grinding noise or kinda pulse almost like it's the sound of diesel lifters clacking. My thinking is possibly the flex plate bolt or plate just being cracked in general. Or just a failing torque converter. idk i've thrown the parts cannon at it.
@@Smashachu Does the noise change with engine pitch? would you say it is a high pitch wine
@@GaryFerraro I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but i assume you're asking does the noise stop when it's hot. Not really, also after hearing it again it's more like a raddling metallic noise that turns into and almost grinding noise when accelerating. I've never heard it stop after it's warmed up, it slows down if i'm in neutral or park.
@@Smashachu ok so no noise cold, is the noise maybe like a high pitch whine that changes as the engine rpm changes?
I did fix the forward clutches and with the original tcm I works good just the code comes back and it doesn’t burn the clutches anymore
I think I have a defective tcm but the dealer doesn’t wanna warranty it because they didn’t do the installation
They want me to put it back on the truck and have them do the diagnostic
That is the only way they will warranty the body for you, so no more converter code? I read somewhere else similar problem and the tcm was defective. Do you have a scan tool that shows live data, you can watch the sensor to see when it faults
Hi Gary, great videos, if don't mind would you tell me which brand rebuilt kit recommend for my 5r55n trans..., So many brand are up there 😵, to be close to original Ford, thanks again Gary.
Go with TransTec, I only use these overhaul kits. Where are you located?
Charlotte NC, thanks.
And would you tell me what you think about high energy carbon bands, thanks again.
www.ptptrans.com/5r55w-5r55s-5r55n-transmissions-3-band-set-high-energy-carbon-bands-fits-ford/
Shalva Kipshidze If you need parts, I could hook you up with my
Be nice, if you have a store or something like that, give me a address, I got the low mileage unit, and trying to rebuild it right, Nothing wrong with it now, but we know how problematic that unit is 😵, and I decided to perfect rebuild, so far I porches superior shift kit new o/d, I/m, and L/r, bonded servos, plus sunnax servo pin bore sleeve kit, need to take to machine shop, plus (new) solenoid block.
End I found the transtec rubber & gasket set, Like you said,www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071J52822/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3B850ZGIPDG3A&psc=1
And I'm doing research about the carbon high energy bands, that is the plan, it is my mother car, Lincoln ls, tell me if that bands worth something, it's better than original Ford bor not, thanks again Gary 🏎️
My 05 mustang with this same transmission shifts completely fine in all forward gears but reverse takes exactly 15 seconds to engage…no more no less and it only does this when the engines warmed up. When reverse does engage it’s very smooth it doesn’t slam into gear…Also it will go into reverse immediately with no delay when cold starting. I’ve already changed the filter and replaced the fluid twice. No flashing O/D light, no check engine light and no slipping/delayed gear engagement in drive. Just this weird problem with reverse. It’s been this way for almost a year since I bought the car and it hasn’t gotten any worse. What in the world could be causing this???
Possible valvebody or solenoid pack problem
@@GaryFerraro can the valve body and solenoid pack be replaced by just removing the transmission pan? I remember you can see them when you drop the pan but can they be removed from the outside as well without removing the entire trans?
@@MustangGuy1996 yes it can
Hello I have a problem with my transmission 5r55s can u help me?
I have a 2008 mustang v6. For some reason, I don’t have a reverse or drive. But I can drive my car In the 1st 2nd or 3rd and my car only works in drive if I’m going at least 40mph, and I shift it into drive from 3rd. I changed the fluid thinking it was probably just bad. There wasn’t any metal shavings. There’s no codes. Some people saying it’s the overdrive sprag or some type. I’m clueless on what the issue is. Just don’t wanna spend thousands on a new transmission.
And also, when I do put it into 1st gear, it takes like 3 seconds for it to engage and my car kinda jerks foward. If you can shine some light, it would help a lot
@@5.0chris Have you had the car scanned for codes?
@@GaryFerraro I tried scanning, nothing popped up. There’s no check engine light.
@@5.0chris Very Possible the O/D sprag is no good, was the pan dropped to see if any debris is in the pan?
@@GaryFerraro when I took the pan off, there really wasn’t any metal in it. It looked fine. But one video, the guy said his overdrive sprag was bad with the same problems I’m having
I have a problem with my 2007 ford explorer. the check engine light is off. Sometimes I use my car then I turn it off, then when I come back like in 20 minutes to turn my car on, and put it on drive my car feels like if it is brake, and I accelerate it really hard. After of 1 minute of hard acceleration the car is normal again. Sometimes it smells like burn trans fluid too. Idk what it can be.
How is reverse?
Thank you sir
02 explorer 4.0 4x4. No leaks tranny fluid and transfer case fluid both look good. Don’t smell burnt . But my transmission out of no where lost all gears like it’s weak while driving . Your thoughts?
Sounds like possible Overdrive Sprag is blown, Any Noises coming from trans?
@@GaryFerraro even reverse is out. And no noises . At first I thought I could hear the torque converter possibly spinning lose but I think I’m mistaken. I’m pretty sure there isn’t any noises
@@GaryFerrarowhat are the chances I lost every gear including reverse that the solenoid pack went out ?
solenoids is not problem, have you checked fluid level?@@4nitedeeonyt532
@@GaryFerraro I got probably about 3-4 qts out of the pan when I drained it.
Thanks Gary, my 06 5R55S Mustang GT is not downshifting or dropping a gear at 3/4 throttle? I have to floor it to drop a gear or two while driving around town. I installed a TCI aftermarket ratchet shifter so it would drop a gear manually if I bump it. I have replaced with Motorcraft fluid, servo and New ford filter on the transmission. Does it need rebuilding? Other than that everything else works fine?
May not down shift at 3/4 throttle, this is all electronically controlled. Do you have any codes present
What was the problem
I have 2007 mustang V6 Automatic started having trouble accelerating out of nowhere anything above 3000rpm or 4mph has hard time and it wouldn’t go in reverse, I changed the ATF fluid and filter it kinda worked but still having trouble any input?
194xxx miles I have the check engine light on and the O/D light has been flashing since I bought it last year. P0420 code only
My mustang is having different problems
How much to rebuild your one?
depending on whats wrong around 3000 to 3300, thats with getting the car and doing entire job
Say a vehicle comes in with only a p0740. Otherwise drives and shifts great but won't lock up. Has around 200 rpm slip at 100% commanded on. All the powers and grounds are there and everything ohms out okay. Also, say it's a full retail job that requires the customer paying full parts and labor for everything.
1) Would you ever try just throwing a converter at it?
2) Is it reasonable to assume that a hydraulic issue/leakage would cause only a partial slip of the TCC and not a full slip in most cases?
3) Or if the lockup clutch is completely roasted and unable to hold at all is that usually just caused by a different problem? And only replacing the converter will usually result in the new one burning up as well?
4) Or does it all depend on the particular trans?
Sometimes I hate dealing with lockup issues. There are so many sources for problems in the lockup circuit. If you go after the root cause right away you can save the customer a lot of money. But if you don't get it right and they're paying full re&re labor then you can quickly end up costing them more money than if you just did the rebuild right away...
When ever i get on in with that code i sell them a trans, too many issues can cause this code so i address everything. That is a very high slip for 100%. How many miles?
@@GaryFerraro I was just pulling numbers out of the air. More of a general question to feel out your experiences and not about a specific vehicle.
It's good to hear that you try to opt for the whole trans. I've been leaning towards that route myself. Just wasn't sure if I was jumping the gun by making that call. I remember one particular nightmare 545RFE that was having issues releasing the lockup. It belonged to a good friend of the shop owner so time/labor wasn't an issue. Ended up being caused by a faulty solenoid pack we installed a few months prior. The pack wasn't even aftermarket. Got it straight from the dealer. But ya, that truck kicked my butt...
That,s the way to go, would hate to pull the trans back out again to try to fix the issue
I got a question ok I got a 2001 4.0 the transmission is going out ok I have a 1010 Ford Sport Trac with a 4.0 what I wanted to know is will the 2010 transmission work in the 2001 Sport Trac ?
will not, one trans is a 5R55E and the other is a 5R55S, the units are not the same
Does the 2004 explorer v8 have the same trans. as the v6.
It should but the bellhousing and converters are not the same
Please help. Had the transmission rebuilt on my 06 explorer 6.0 4x4. Shifts well in all gears. After warmed up and shift in reverse, it's very harsh. Only in reverse.
Do you know if they changed the solenoid pack? Are you sure this is a 6.0,? i'm not showing that engine size
@@GaryFerraro I'm sorry 4.0. Yes that was replaced with a complete rebuild.
@@ruben85374 Brand New? OE?
@@GaryFerraro Brand New not sure about OE I had a friend do the work and it's giving him a hard time. The only thing we can think of is replace the entire unit
Hi Gary
I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier 4.0l
I rebuilt the transmission due to coolant contamination and I replaced the valve body with one from the dealer , but the one they send me is a hitachi valve body and the one that the truck has was a bosh unit they are telling me that some of these trucks they updated the valve body and they said that that’s the correct valve body so I installed it on the truck and the truck never had fifth gear and I was getting a code P0717 for the input speed sensor. I dropped the transmission one more time to inspect everything and the input clutches were burn maybe because I drove it for like about three miles and I don’t know if the valve body is the one that was causing the problem
Ok I believe so I clean and replace solenoids in the original valve body but I keep getting a code P0744 I forgot got to mention I replace the tcc solenoid with an after market and no change the code reset after a few miles of driving
Any advice on how to solve this problem I try two torque converters and the truck seems to be shifting fine and not really familiar with the scan data
I really need some help if you can help me
Thanks in advance
Did you order the valvebody through the vin number of the car?
Yes I did
And they said that the valve body is the correct one for this truck
But the new one is different
@@aviator1683 Fix the forward clutch first, either that is making the code show or the TCM is defective. With the new valvebody/tcm your still getting converter code?
Hi Gary my 05 explorer xlt thumps into reverse but only sometimes. forward gears are all great. the shop said it was the transfer case not the transmission does that sound accurate? 4th gear is fine I think. Seems pretty minor but i don't want to cause more damage how long can I drive on it safely? Shop said it was ok for a while
do you have any controls for 4x4 or is this just AWD
@@GaryFerraro 4x4 auto and high are fine 4x4 low doesn't engage
@@GaryFerraro I think it's AWD with controls technically
@@jackhartzell6074 Do you just have a high and low option?
@@GaryFerraro also 4x4 auto
Hello Gary my name is Aaron and I bought a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 liter V-6 with the 5R55S automatic transmission the seller thought that the transmission needed replaced so I questioned how this came to be he said I drove it to work the transmission shifted smooth without any signs of failure so I did a little research and found out about doing the ford transmission reset and after giving the seller #600 he was expecting me to have my ride tow me out of his drive way but I did the reset and it worked I drove away well the seller was quite confused as to me how anyway I ended up having to do this rest on 3 more accessions and this last time I went to do it and nothing still no movement when I shift it into any gear and there is no engine check light I hooked up a code reader and no codes show up any suggestions would be very highly appreciated as to what is going on with my explorers transmission (
ok, so you drove this home and now no move? no reverse?
Also interested. 05 Mustang GT 05/17/05 5r55s . No movement in any range. P1000. Turbine speed is good with eng rpm. Live data shows pressure to all pc solenoids, have yet to plug into the block for true pressure. Dropped pan to inspect, clean fluid clean filter. Don’t know who touched it last while this customer had this vehicle down, hasn’t been registered for a year. My guestimate is a clean break of the O/D sprag, or I’m just looking at clean fluid. Waiting on auth for tear down.
@@Daddimirr Very possible the break of o/d sprag, let me know if you tear it down
Correct after I did this transmission reset where you turn the key to on position then apply the break and shift the shift lever into neutral and turn the key to the off position wait 30 seconds then put the shifter back into park and turn the key back to the on position wait another 30 seconds then turn the key to the off and right back to run and start the vehicle and after doing that reset it work for 4 times each time the vehicle started up and the transmission shifted smooth as butter no transmission noise no check indicator light on the dash and no engine codes bought a transmission fluid line / port test gauge and started it up but the gauge showed no pressure in any gear that I shifted the shift lever into the only thing that has changed since the 3 reset when I last drove it for about 2 weeks is when I was jacking my explorer up with the floor jack under the front cross member I didn't notice that the rubber pad that's on the jack had came off the jack while sliding it under the front of my SUV which ended up causing the jack to slip off the cross member and right up under the radiator cracking the side seems so I went to the wrecking yard and bought another used radiator to replace the one on the explorer I had to burn off the old original factory transmission cooler line fittings because I don't know if you have had the privilege of using the various tools that they sell to release the quick fittings but I couldn't get the fluid line to release so I had no other choice but to unscrew the cooler line fitting from the radiator not realizing that if you make the mistake as I did unscrewing both fittings out of the bottom of the radiator that the metal cooler falls down inside the radiator and if the task of getting ahold of the piece inside the radiator isn't hard enough I spent the next two hours trying to screw the fittings and trans fluid cooling lines into the used replacement radiator and come to find out the factory used a fitting that is pressed into place and the thread pattern is different than the only company that sells the fittings for any where from $30 to $40 for one brass fitting that has a one way clip inside of it but I ended up loosing a couple quarts of transmission fluid out of the lines doing the radiator change and hooking up the cooler lines back into the replacement radiator with no fluid in the lines nor in the bottom of the radiator would that much air in the transmission cooler lines be enough to cause the transmission to quit pumping to explain a lose or no pressure in the transmission therefore causing the no engagement into any of the gears including reverse ?
Hi' Gary 'have a problem with my 07 ford explorer transmission was going good and then a day after parked started up ready to go and it didn't move from that no codes on dashboard can you point me in the right direction to what to check?
First thing to check is fluid level, need a lift for this, no dipstick on this trans
@@GaryFerraro i did, and change filter magnet in the case was clean nothing showing that some thing went wrong
@@carlwhittle669 ok, quick question, magnet is in correct spot? and not where the filter intake is
@@GaryFerraro well when I took the cover down it was at one side should be in the right place i don't think the cover ever came down before
@@carlwhittle669 ok, very possible your overdrive sprag may have failed, any noises when the car is running
Mine is skipping 3rd. New servo bushing new servo piston. Fire and ground where it needs to be in the harness. Computer checks good. Has no codes. Fluid isn't burnt or anything. Oh and we've tried 3 solenoid packs. Do you have any idea what the problem may be? This is insane i know its something so silly im missing. Please if anyone has any clue I'd appreciate it. Its been rebuilt twice. Everything is new that should be.
you should drop the valvebody and air check the servo piston, the piston moves in the bushing ok?
@@GaryFerraro I pressure checked it with the valve body off to see how the engagement looked and it appeared to hold pressure. Its hard to get down in that vein its in with the normal tip so i took it off and wrapped tape around to get as good a seal I could and it seemed to hold. Just won't hold in between 2nd and 4th for some reason lol
@@GaryFerraro I ohm tested solenoid b wire from the pcm connector to the solenoid pack connector terminal for sol b and it read .5, and for whatever reason.. when I try it in another hole I get a random reading from other terminals in the connector while up at the top of the vehicle im attempting a simple ohm test on the sol b wire using test leads. It's like there's an open circuit in the harness. But its crazy bc it literally does not set any codes. But it communicates data fine for all solenoids and everything. Im not a professional but I know there's something I'm missing here. Thanks for the reply man
@@thefogisgone3662 Does this set a P0733 code
@@GaryFerraro It won't set any codes, yet it reads data perfectly on my dads snap on solus edge. And will run every on off test and everything. It just specifically skips 3rd gear. Like tries to go in flares and puts you right into 4th. Skips on the way back down too
I have codes P0798 and P0968 with O/D flashing
My 3-4 and my reverse bang into gear
I replaced the solenoid pack and wasn’t it
Can you please give an idea on what it could be ?
What is year, make, model and engine size? If you clear the codes they come right back? What is the definition of the codes?
@@GaryFerraro 2008 Ford Mustang gt 4.6L V8. Yes if I try to clear them it comes back Right away. The P0798 is pressure control solenoid C electrical and the P0968 is pressure control solenoid C control circuit/open
@@chrisbenavides8475 ok, so straight up electrical problem, Solenoid pack did not work, may be the control wire for solenoid C, Right front of engine compartment is a fuse box check fuse #39 15 amp fuse. Do you know the location of the PCM, I can get you the wire color for the Solenoid C control
@@GaryFerraro just check the fuse and looks to be good. Yeah I know where the pcm is
@@chrisbenavides8475 ok, need vin number to pull a wiring diagram, you could post it here or e-mail me gsferraro@yahoo.com
Loss of reverse and drive in the 08 mustang gt.. someone said it was the solenoid but I also get a bunch of other things. No codes thrown
Did this happen suddenly
@@GaryFerraro yes
@@GaryFerraro no sounds I replaced the fluid and filter.. some metal fluid smelled fine
@@tbagination7863 Ok, question, when you refilled the trans did it take the same amount that came out? or did it take less?
@@GaryFerraro just a little more than what I took out
I’m having problems with mine . Should I buy a remanufactured one online
I never liked to do that, no shops in your area?
@@GaryFerraro How come you don’t think that’s ok? I’ve tried with 3 different shops and they said there’s no point in fixing the trans and better be off buying a reman trans
@@johntorres2362 Just don't know what your getting, you will have to pay to have it installed, if there is a problem with it would you have to pay again to install a replacement unit?
@@GaryFerraro it’s from a website remantransmission they offer 5 year warranty. Mines acting up @ 85k miles. I have no codes that show up. Could it just be my servo bore wearing out?
@@johntorres2362 What is the car doing Slipping?
How much would it cost for you to rebuild mine
Are you in the New York Area?
Gary Ferraro I’m in Chicago but I would ship it if the price was right
@@brandonhernandez9027 Can you e-mail me your vin number and the problem that your having, also any codes?
gsferraro@yahoo.com
I do I actually recorded some videos on my phone
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com send them if you like.
IS THE 5R55E a sealed transmission
Yes, do you have a leak?
@@GaryFerraro no but sometimes it shifts hard going into first gear from a dead stop
@@charleshanlin318 do you mean it shifts hard on the 1-2 shift or a harsh engagement into drive from park? are there any codes present for the transmission? check engine light on?
@@GaryFerraro its in drive and then shifts hard like from a stop light and I haven't been able to find out if it is throwing a code yet
May have elevated line pressure, you should get it scanned for codes, check engine light on ?
Can you help me i have 03 explorer code p1700
What is the definition of that code?
Thumb down??
What?
Why?
LOL, Thanks for watching
😀😀😀
I have p0745
What type of scanner are you using, that code is usually along with a P0733. Anything happening on the 2-3 shift?
Gary Ferraro just got it check at a local transmission shop and yup they told me they see p0733 also , time for a rebuild 🤦🏾♂️
Gary Ferraro slipping only on 2-3 shift
@@wordsmatter3343 Correct my friend, you have a broken band
@@wordsmatter3343 Yes, that is the intermediate band. Front band is 2nd and 5th gear, the one right behind that is 3rd
I need your expert opinion. I’m looking to replace my 5R55S in my 2005 Lincoln LS Sport but wanting to buy a rebuilt transmission that addresses Ford’s shortcomings. Which direction would you point me in? Your opinion means ALOT in my decision btw.
Hi Shawn, what problem are you having, reason i'm asking is because these computers go bad a lot on these cars and cause transmission problems. Do you have harsh engagements and hard shifts?
@@GaryFerraro Yes it was harsh shifting in all gears and in reverse and drive.
@@GaryFerraro I was shifting with the shift tronic feature until it grenaded itself.
@@GaryFerraro And how would I even go about getting another transmission computer? I LOVE my car and want to get it back on the road but don’t want to spend triple the value of the car to get it back on the road
Did you have hard shift and hard engagements?@@shaunhuckabee5904