Great video, Thank You. Water adjustments were the biggest game changer for me.Difference is night and day. Start with RO water and its easy to do the additions. CLEAN and SANITIZE after each brew day. Stay true to STYLE ( resist the urge to get fancy). Everyone can brew great beer at home
I used to have a consistent but quite unpleasant off flavor in my bottled beers (I alway use tap water) which completely went away once I started using half a Campden tablet in my brewing water so I can confirm this tip.
Great video. From something else I use water for, some other methods: put tap water in a food safe barrel, and run a bubbler from a fish tank store. Chlorine will evaporate out in 12 hours(24 hours with no bubbler). Then run thru filter. It helps extend filter life considerably. Automotive stores have distilled water for filling lead Batteries, and is usually priced well. If you are real serious, buy an EC/ppm meter. Its insurance. Sometimes your tap water is 0.3 EC which is pretty much salt mouthwash.
That's why it's all about... I preach water additions probably more than most people, But it's one thing that will bring your beers from good to great! 🍻
I appreciate the water walkthrough for people unfamiliar with water chemistry in general, it's massively helpful for creating great beer from mediocre beer, next only to fermentation control. I do have one small gripe, that as I continued to watch kept bothering me more and more. Cl stands for Chlorine, not Chloride. Chloride is simply a chemistry moniker to refer to a substance or molecule that includes a Chlorine Ion as one of it's bonded constituents. You're simply adding Chlorine to your water, Chloride isn't something different or special. Seems strange that we'd go through so much trouble to remove Chlorine from a solution, using fancy filters, to only add it all back in using Calcium Chloride. This of course being under the assumption that your normal water profile doesn't have something like 200ppm Chlorine, but as far as I'm aware national regulations prevent anything over 10ppm of Chlorine.
I understand what you mean since chloride is made from chlorine, however, they're very different. Chlorine is a gas, and Chloride is made when it is bonded to another element, giving it an extra electron or negative charge. chlorine (Cl2) is the elemental form of the element, while chloride (Cl-) is the anion form that results from the gain of an electron by chlorine. Although related, think of them like brothers, similar DNA but completely different people. When chlorine is added to water at a municipal treatment plant, it is added as a gas or in a solid form called hypochlorite. It is not the same as adding a Chloride, such as calcium chloride or sodium chloride. This does not add chlorine to your water, but rather a different compounded element. Chlorine left in the mash process creates chorlophenols, which gives off plastic or Band-Aid flavors. This is why we try to remove it, but are not worried about forms of bonded chlorides, since they do not produce these off flavors. Hope that helps. 🍻
Great video. Water chemistry is something I’ve been ignoring for a while but recently bought a chlorine sediment reducer and found it helped. Now I’m keen to get my head around actually dialling in proper profiles for different styles. Thanks for this info, it’s a huge help.
When I started out brewing I used to use dry yeast. Switching to a good quality liquid yeast made the world of difference, and took away the "homebrew" tast! I've made some really great beers using plain old Detroit city water from the tap.
Agree! I mainly brew plain lagers and I just can't get good results using dry yeast. Especially not with that horrible Saflager W-34/70. Since switching to liquid yeast, my favourite being WLP833, I can brew my own lagers that I can finally enjoy!
whoa! Informative video. I’m looking to understand water profile, and you explained it very well. I’ll have to re-watch this few more times as much went over my head
It depends on where you are living. In my place (north of Slovakia, Europe) we have absolutely fantastic water that doesn't require any changes. Our water threatment also don't use any chloramine so I'm usually good to go if I leave water to evaporate chlorine during night. Heck, I can go to woods few kms away and grab a perfectly clean mountain water. And I know it's without any bacteria etc as my mom used to work in lab and she inspected that water. People living in big cities and in dry areas have it harder and I fully understand that. Look, Pilsner was made because of it's soft water and I'm not aware they use any chemistry at all to these days.
Yep, that is right, but we change our water to match the water profiles of those areas to make our beer to the style. So for a pilsner, matching the water profile of Pilsen Czech Republic, kolsh in Cologne Germany, etc. So you can get away without using water additions if you have good water to brew with, but even then you may want to tweak your water profile for a specific style to match that water source.
None of it is artificial. These are natural minerals found in your drinking water, even in spring water. They just vary in amounts depending on the region you live in. Unless you use distilled or reverse osmosis water, all water has minerals in it. If you do use distilled or reverse osmosis water, you need to add minerals or you will get off flavors.
Great video! Anymore I just build all my profiles from scratch with RO water. That and fermentation temperature control are the two things that brought my beer from “homebrewy” to something I’m willing to serve to others lol
Hey Dennis, PH measurement process question for you. I have the same meter that is feature in this (or maybe it was a different) video that you showed. The manual says it tops out at 140 degrees F as far as the substance that's measured. What temp are you measuring your mash PH at? Takes time to cool it down and I can hear the clock ticking. Or is the actual PH of your mash usually pretty close to the calculated Ph the Brewers friend tool gives you after you add whatever amendments are needed to the water, such that you usually don't have to make much of an adjustment to your mash?
My pH meter is a Dr. Meter brand and has auto temp correction up to 70 degrees Celsius or 158° F. That covers most mash temperatures. With that said, I don't have to check it very often because I found that the app is actually pretty accurate. I almost always have to add lactic acid, based on my water profile, to drop the pH to the 5.2 - 5.3 range. Here is the one I use: amzn.to/3TnQR6q
I usually warm my mash and sparge water in the same vessel, if I added all the salts I needed for both at the same time will that throw my numbers off?
Nope, not at all. Just make sure that your mash pH is still at the recommended level. A lot of the online calculators, like brewer's friend that I use, ask whether you separate the water. 🍻
Awesome video dude! I have been playing with distilled water and changing salt and acid additions for a few brews now but my confidence in my ph meter is pretty low. I spent like $120 on a Milwaukee meter and I compare those readings to a couple other cheap ph meters I've bought and none of them match up. I had this problem with thermometers when I started brewing 3 years ago and now its ph meters! It just sucks when you don't know what's a true reading and what isn't. Confidence in any of your thermometers, or other scaled meters is a must. I use brewers friend also but on my cell phone since I don't have a computer and its a little wonky but your explanation makes me think maybe it's me that messed up some of the inputs on the app. Anyway I'm always learning and adjusting and you help alot with your information!
Thanks! That's why I made this one. Talked to a guy that had a great recipe and temp controlled fermentation but his beer had off flavors and I asked about his water, turns out he wasn't adjusting and his pH was nearly 6 when mashing. These little adjustments, a $30 pH meter, and couple of bucks in salts changed his whole outlook on brewing. His next beer turned out great! 🍻
Thank you for this. It has been very informative. I am curious at this point but think I am going to try my hand a brewing a gallon or so. I do have a question for you and that is. on the water. I live in Az and the water is very hard and high in chlorine. I use a Brita water filter. Is that acceptable enough for brewing. It definitely doesn't taste like I'm drinking a swimming pool. lol
Brita filters are charcoal filters... So they should take out most chlorine. I also use a filter, but I still use half a Campden tablet as well just to ensure that the chlorine is gone. One tablet treats up to 10 gallons, so if you're doing a small batch you could literally use 1/4. They are very cheap so one bag would last you a long time. Here's the ones I use. amzn.to/35EytA6
Hey there. Great video!! I think monitoring pH is the next step in my home brew journey. Question. The pH meter you listed comes with calibration powders that are different in pH than the calibration solutions you link to. Will the bottled solutions (pH 7 & 4) work the same as the powders that come with the meter (pH 4, 6.86, 9.18)? Thank you!!!!
I would do one of the three-step calibration solutions that comes with the meter in order to calibrate it the first time. After that I use the 4.0 pH calibration solution just to make sure it hasn't changed.
I found this a little confusing. I sorta just need a water recipe that I can replicate for different styles of beers using RO water and salts - thinking about going that direction...
You can still use the websites for their target water profiles and select that you are using RO water. Works the same way. However, unless you have bad water for brewing, you can save money not buying an RO system and just getting a water report and plugging in the numbers at the top. The calculations are the same after that and you generally will use less salts. Virtually no breweries use RO systems, because it would be way too expensive, they just adjust the water the same way. But either way is completely fine. and works.
Thanks for the tip on the water sampling. I have good well water but it is hard and some iron and calcium. Been wondering what it was. I also used sofftened water and it helped. Still not there.
You're welcome. You can always use distilled water and add salts to get correct water profile too if it is difficult to adjust your well water. Cheers 🍻
FYI i got a kit from ward labs back in march. Sent the sample back and Nothing. I have attempted to contact 3 times for the results or any feedback, and no luck. They get a thumbs down from me for service and responsiveness.
I agree. I think a lot of people know about using Irish moss / whirlfloc tablets and cold crashing, but starter kits definitely don't talk about addressing water or pH, so many brewers don't even know that could be effecting flavor.
Great video, Thank You.
Water adjustments were the biggest game changer for me.Difference is night and day. Start with RO water and its easy to do the additions. CLEAN and SANITIZE after each brew day. Stay true to STYLE ( resist the urge to get fancy). Everyone can brew great beer at home
🍻💯
thank you for making a clear and concise video
🤘💯🍻
I used to have a consistent but quite unpleasant off flavor in my bottled beers (I alway use tap water) which completely went away once I started using half a Campden tablet in my brewing water so I can confirm this tip.
Thanks! 💯🍻
Great video. From something else I use water for, some other methods: put tap water in a food safe barrel, and run a bubbler from a fish tank store. Chlorine will evaporate out in 12 hours(24 hours with no bubbler).
Then run thru filter. It helps extend filter life considerably.
Automotive stores have distilled water for filling lead Batteries, and is usually priced well.
If you are real serious, buy an EC/ppm meter. Its insurance. Sometimes your tap water is 0.3 EC which is pretty much salt mouthwash.
Great video, I’ve always found water intimidating and your video breaks it down step by step for me!
Thanks again.
That's why it's all about... I preach water additions probably more than most people, But it's one thing that will bring your beers from good to great! 🍻
Great demo
I appreciate the water walkthrough for people unfamiliar with water chemistry in general, it's massively helpful for creating great beer from mediocre beer, next only to fermentation control.
I do have one small gripe, that as I continued to watch kept bothering me more and more. Cl stands for Chlorine, not Chloride. Chloride is simply a chemistry moniker to refer to a substance or molecule that includes a Chlorine Ion as one of it's bonded constituents. You're simply adding Chlorine to your water, Chloride isn't something different or special.
Seems strange that we'd go through so much trouble to remove Chlorine from a solution, using fancy filters, to only add it all back in using Calcium Chloride. This of course being under the assumption that your normal water profile doesn't have something like 200ppm Chlorine, but as far as I'm aware national regulations prevent anything over 10ppm of Chlorine.
I understand what you mean since chloride is made from chlorine, however, they're very different. Chlorine is a gas, and Chloride is made when it is bonded to another element, giving it an extra electron or negative charge. chlorine (Cl2) is the elemental form of the element, while chloride (Cl-) is the anion form that results from the gain of an electron by chlorine. Although related, think of them like brothers, similar DNA but completely different people. When chlorine is added to water at a municipal treatment plant, it is added as a gas or in a solid form called hypochlorite. It is not the same as adding a Chloride, such as calcium chloride or sodium chloride. This does not add chlorine to your water, but rather a different compounded element. Chlorine left in the mash process creates chorlophenols, which gives off plastic or Band-Aid flavors. This is why we try to remove it, but are not worried about forms of bonded chlorides, since they do not produce these off flavors. Hope that helps. 🍻
Great video. Water chemistry is something I’ve been ignoring for a while but recently bought a chlorine sediment reducer and found it helped. Now I’m keen to get my head around actually dialling in proper profiles for different styles. Thanks for this info, it’s a huge help.
You're welcome! Glad to help! 🍻
hi Derick thanks for a great and really informative video, liked and subcribed
When I started out brewing I used to use dry yeast. Switching to a good quality liquid yeast made the world of difference, and took away the "homebrew" tast!
I've made some really great beers using plain old Detroit city water from the tap.
Agree! I mainly brew plain lagers and I just can't get good results using dry yeast. Especially not with that horrible Saflager W-34/70. Since switching to liquid yeast, my favourite being WLP833, I can brew my own lagers that I can finally enjoy!
Thanks a lot for all informations. Cheers from Brazil 🍺
Glad to help! 🍻👍
Fantastic informative vid. I've been reluctant to go back to brewing as that "tang" wastes my time. 5 stars!!!
Thanks! Glad it helps! 🍻
whoa! Informative video. I’m looking to understand water profile, and you explained it very well. I’ll have to re-watch this few more times as much went over my head
That's ok. Ask any questions you have, that is what this channel is all about. No such thing as a dumb question. 🍻
RO water system does a good job...basically starting from a blank slate.
Distilled Water is the most neutral PH Water.... coming in at 7 in PH scale...neutral. true clean slate.
It depends on where you are living. In my place (north of Slovakia, Europe) we have absolutely fantastic water that doesn't require any changes. Our water threatment also don't use any chloramine so I'm usually good to go if I leave water to evaporate chlorine during night.
Heck, I can go to woods few kms away and grab a perfectly clean mountain water. And I know it's without any bacteria etc as my mom used to work in lab and she inspected that water.
People living in big cities and in dry areas have it harder and I fully understand that.
Look, Pilsner was made because of it's soft water and I'm not aware they use any chemistry at all to these days.
Yep, that is right, but we change our water to match the water profiles of those areas to make our beer to the style. So for a pilsner, matching the water profile of Pilsen Czech Republic, kolsh in Cologne Germany, etc. So you can get away without using water additions if you have good water to brew with, but even then you may want to tweak your water profile for a specific style to match that water source.
@@CityscapeBrewing I understand that and that's reasonable. I rather avoid adding anything artificial
None of it is artificial. These are natural minerals found in your drinking water, even in spring water. They just vary in amounts depending on the region you live in. Unless you use distilled or reverse osmosis water, all water has minerals in it. If you do use distilled or reverse osmosis water, you need to add minerals or you will get off flavors.
Great video! Anymore I just build all my profiles from scratch with RO water. That and fermentation temperature control are the two things that brought my beer from “homebrewy” to something I’m willing to serve to others lol
Exactly! Temperature control is definitely number one... Water is one that some take for granted and is kind of intimidating at first.
Hey Dennis, PH measurement process question for you. I have the same meter that is feature in this (or maybe it was a different) video that you showed. The manual says it tops out at 140 degrees F as far as the substance that's measured. What temp are you measuring your mash PH at? Takes time to cool it down and I can hear the clock ticking. Or is the actual PH of your mash usually pretty close to the calculated Ph the Brewers friend tool gives you after you add whatever amendments are needed to the water, such that you usually don't have to make much of an adjustment to your mash?
My pH meter is a Dr. Meter brand and has auto temp correction up to 70 degrees Celsius or 158° F. That covers most mash temperatures. With that said, I don't have to check it very often because I found that the app is actually pretty accurate. I almost always have to add lactic acid, based on my water profile, to drop the pH to the 5.2 - 5.3 range. Here is the one I use: amzn.to/3TnQR6q
I usually warm my mash and sparge water in the same vessel, if I added all the salts I needed for both at the same time will that throw my numbers off?
Nope, not at all. Just make sure that your mash pH is still at the recommended level. A lot of the online calculators, like brewer's friend that I use, ask whether you separate the water. 🍻
Awesome video dude! I have been playing with distilled water and changing salt and acid additions for a few brews now but my confidence in my ph meter is pretty low. I spent like $120 on a Milwaukee meter and I compare those readings to a couple other cheap ph meters I've bought and none of them match up. I had this problem with thermometers when I started brewing 3 years ago and now its ph meters! It just sucks when you don't know what's a true reading and what isn't. Confidence in any of your thermometers, or other scaled meters is a must. I use brewers friend also but on my cell phone since I don't have a computer and its a little wonky but your explanation makes me think maybe it's me that messed up some of the inputs on the app. Anyway I'm always learning and adjusting and you help alot with your information!
Thanks! That's why I made this one. Talked to a guy that had a great recipe and temp controlled fermentation but his beer had off flavors and I asked about his water, turns out he wasn't adjusting and his pH was nearly 6 when mashing. These little adjustments, a $30 pH meter, and couple of bucks in salts changed his whole outlook on brewing. His next beer turned out great! 🍻
Buy some calibration solution for your ph meters, its simple and cheap.
Dunk in the ph meters and see which are accurate!
Thank you for this. It has been very informative. I am curious at this point but think I am going to try my hand a brewing a gallon or so. I do have a question for you and that is. on the water. I live in Az and the water is very hard and high in chlorine. I use a Brita water filter. Is that acceptable enough for brewing. It definitely doesn't taste like I'm drinking a swimming pool. lol
Brita filters are charcoal filters... So they should take out most chlorine. I also use a filter, but I still use half a Campden tablet as well just to ensure that the chlorine is gone. One tablet treats up to 10 gallons, so if you're doing a small batch you could literally use 1/4. They are very cheap so one bag would last you a long time. Here's the ones I use. amzn.to/35EytA6
Hey there. Great video!! I think monitoring pH is the next step in my home brew journey. Question. The pH meter you listed comes with calibration powders that are different in pH than the calibration solutions you link to. Will the bottled solutions (pH 7 & 4) work the same as the powders that come with the meter (pH 4, 6.86, 9.18)? Thank you!!!!
I would do one of the three-step calibration solutions that comes with the meter in order to calibrate it the first time. After that I use the 4.0 pH calibration solution just to make sure it hasn't changed.
I found this a little confusing. I sorta just need a water recipe that I can replicate for different styles of beers using RO water and salts - thinking about going that direction...
You can still use the websites for their target water profiles and select that you are using RO water. Works the same way. However, unless you have bad water for brewing, you can save money not buying an RO system and just getting a water report and plugging in the numbers at the top. The calculations are the same after that and you generally will use less salts. Virtually no breweries use RO systems, because it would be way too expensive, they just adjust the water the same way. But either way is completely fine. and works.
Thanks for the tip on the water sampling. I have good well water but it is hard and some iron and calcium. Been wondering what it was. I also used sofftened water and it helped. Still not there.
You're welcome. You can always use distilled water and add salts to get correct water profile too if it is difficult to adjust your well water. Cheers 🍻
FYI i got a kit from ward labs back in march. Sent the sample back and Nothing. I have attempted to contact 3 times for the results or any feedback, and no luck. They get a thumbs down from me for service and responsiveness.
Glad you got that figured out! Good to hear
For me i feel like filtration / clarity of beer is an underlooked aspect
I agree. I think a lot of people know about using Irish moss / whirlfloc tablets and cold crashing, but starter kits definitely don't talk about addressing water or pH, so many brewers don't even know that could be effecting flavor.
Just use RO water