That is a very nice saw! I bought an Echo TimberWolf CS590 20" bar as my first chain saw and it's great for my needs. Sort of a one-size-fits-all for me. I handled a 620 at the store, and got that "I need to buy this" feeling haha so my next or additional chainsaw will probably be it or an equivalent by Echo. Grandpa said years ago Echo's are great saws, so that's how I roll.
Honestly, unless you need two 60cc saws you'd be better off to just port the exhaust and mod the muffler on your 590 and then take the savings and buy a 361P so that you have a nice light powerful saw for the times that you don't need something so big as the 590. I think the 361P will most likely be my next saw purchase to use on stuff that's 10 inches or smaller. That 620 gets really heavy after a couple hours.
@@theinternets7516 That's a good point! Yes the 620 at the store seemed noticeably heavier. The 590 seems like a god one size fits all for me so I'll stick with that! Maybe I'll buy another.
Mod the muffler, pull the carb limiters and adjust it then change the spur sprocket to a rim/drum (CALL Oregon bar and chain for the kit, Echo makes one for the 600/620 that fits the 590 but it expensive, Oregon will tell you which one you need). You will be happy with it. Did this to my sons 590 I gave him and the saw pulls extremely well. I also put a Lite weight bar on it but to be honest it doesn't need it. The Echo 590 is 13.2 lbs dry, the Stihl 361 comes in at 12.6 dry that half of a pound isn't worth the extra money and BHP ratings given by manufacturers are over rated in my opinion. I have a Stihl 036 and the Echo can pull along side my Stihl all day long. Learn to keep the chain sharp, air filter clean, do bar maintenance, run 89 octane ethanol free gas and a GOOD air cooled 2 cycle oil and that saw will last the average wood cutter a life time. Also the 590 we got was setup from the factory running almost 1500rpm below max, leaned it out during the tune process to 12.5K (500 below max) and that saw came to life. The saw will give it's best torque in the cut around 9/9.5K rpm. He states that he doesn't care for the choke position and each person is different, the choke doesn't bother me where it is located HOWEVER I don't care for the on/off toggle switch and prefer the Husky slide switch even over my stihl switch, but like I said each person is different and everyone would prefer something setup a little differently. To the internets, thanks for posting this video and showing the Echo.
I bought a new 620P just over a year ago new with a 24" setup for $450 US. My dealer had removed the carb caps, tuned it properly, replaced the caps, and says he will stand behind the 5 year warranty (says " I don't understand, they must have set it up that way at ECHO."). I have run about 40 gallons of fuel through it, and it runs great. Always starts on 4-5 pulls, starts on the first pull the rest of the day. Keep the chain sharp, the filters clean, and use ethanol free fuel, and this saw will keep on going. I would buy this saw again, and would recommend it to anyone wanting a quality, dependable saw. Looking back on the purchase I just can't justify the $330 difference between the 620P and the 362cm for my use.
That's a hell of a dealer. Mine set it up, put gas and oil in it and hit the bar with some grease (which I was very happy about) but that's incredible, and still honoring the warranty to boot. That guy would have a customer for life it was me. I've been really happy with mine so far as well. Like you said, super easy to start and definitely not worth the extra money for the 362 for what I'm doing with it. Honestly, even if I was running it daily I don't know that it would be worth the extra money for a 362. I think if I were going to be making a living with my saw I'd probably go for a Stihl 462 CM to cut a little weight and add A LOT of power but when you're not using it day in and day out that's just not necessary and that kind of money just can't be justified. I have been wanting to mod the muffler but it does so well already that it's not worth losing the warranty. Once it hits 5 years old though I'm definitely going to be doing some work on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 Never modify the muffler. Research how 2 stroke engines use the restrictive pressure in the muffler to reflect sound waves back into the combustion chamber, causing a turbo boost effect. The restrictive muffler on a 2 stroke is functioning as a turbocharger. If you make the hole too large on the muffler, it removes all the back pressure, removing the boost effect. This is why they have TINY exhaust pipes coming out of the back of 500cc motocross bikes (only 1" around" at the tail pipe). Less back pressure does not mean more power on a 2 stroke! Ever. Measuring the RPM's with a tachometer and free revving a saw is not a valid way of measuring horsepower. A super lean mixture will get you 14,500 rpms, which is not equal to more power. If you do modify the muffler, don't change the size of the outlet. It's ok to remove the guts inside the muffler, but it's not ok to simply make the exit hole on the mufffler larger, because then you ruin the "tuned pipe" effect of the muffler. All 2 strokes work best with a small restriction hole on the muffler canister, to reflect the sound waves, and cause reversion in the cylinder. On a 2 cycle, the reversion of air fuel, is actually beneficial, and can double the horsepower versus a standard open muffler with no restrictor. Most homeade 2 stroke mufflers have way too large of exhaust opening on the muffler, which means there is no tuned pipe effect. Now, I am saying this without any direct knowledge of the muffler mods on your model of CS-620. Just be very clear that you research how a tuned pipe works on 2 strokes, before you wreck your beautiful stock muffler. You have a beautiful chainsaw. It's super bad ass in stock form!
@@Ritalie, Thanks for the detailed explanation. I had never really thought about the 2-stroke dirt bikes until you brought it up. That's an excellent point. I'll definitely do some reading on it.
The Internets I agree there is no need to modify the muffler. Making it louder doesn’t necessarily create substantially more power, it’s more of a psychological effect. IMO it’s the equivalent of the kid with a Honda Civic and a fart muffler. Has anyone actually proved that it makes more power or cuts any faster with the muffler gutted. I have yet to see any substantial evidence. Is it worth the added annoying loudness? The muffler is there for a reason, to quiet it down. The saw cuts just fine stock, does it not?
@@williamkillingsworth2619 , I have only seen timed cuts but that's not exactly scientific. If I were to do it it would be later once the warranty is gone and mainly just to mess around and see if it helps any not because I feel like I really need the additional power. If it doesn't help and/or it's way too loud it's not that hard to put a new muffler back on it.
That'll be my next saw. Recently got a 590 with a 24" bar but haven't cut anything over 16" with it, got an outer dog for a 620 coming next week, suppose to bolt right up on the 590. It sounds like my neighbor is having a bunch of her hardwood trees professionally felled, said I could have it all...if it turns out to be as much as I think that's where a 620 would be necessary. Nice chaps btw, they're very nice for the price, very secure feeling and comfortable...takes a few minutes to get them all buckled up and adjusted but it's well worth it.
Definitely right about the chaps. I don't cut without them. They've even saved me a little nick on top of my thigh this past summer. The 620 is great. I've had zero issues with it over the last three years. As long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything. I can't recommend it highly enough. You'll love it. I'm picking up a 355T in a couple weeks and I'm really excited to have a small saw for limbing to go along with the 620.
@@theinternets7516 Nice, those top handles look real comfortable to run even on the ground...I'm afraid I'd be too tempted to run one with one hand tho which could result in my right bicep getting filleted, lol...I'll have to stick with my 400 for limbing and small stuff. Take care and stay safe man.
The Internets damn right. That ms462 is pretty awesome. I mean, considering it’s only 72cc and makes more hp than this echo and managed to be even lighter than the cs800. More of everything except weight. Also got a STIHL 064. Never get bored w that either
Vox Populi me and my buddies just started a part time tree service and my buddy bought a brand new MS461 and I bought this CS620PW. He was talking all kinds of shit till we were cutting side by side on the same 18” log and his brand new MS461 at 76.5cc was no faster than my 60cc Echo. The Echo CS670 was a piece of shit saw and would get smoked by the 620 so that would sour anyone on Echo. The new Echo X series are nothing like the old Echos when it comes to performance. They are however like them for reliability.
Great saws I love mine. It will pick up a little power as it breaks in (about 10 tanks of fuel) They seem to be very durable and keep up with other 60cc saws pretty well.
So far so good. I'm on my 6th or 7th tank. It runs really strong. I've thought about doing a muffler mod and carb tune once it's fully broken in. It's amazing how much of a time saver it has been over the ms 180. I know that's not even a close or fair comparison but it's what I was used to working with and this thing is just not even in the same league. It's like peewee vs NFL. My only complaint aside from the choke location and the stop start toggle switch location is that if you run it totally out of gas it's like it has to warm back up or something after you refule it. When I try to give it gas it wants to act like it's going to flood unless I let it idle for a minute or so. I've started just not letting it run out of gas completely so I don't have to deal with it. Once I've got some good run time on it I'm going to do a really thorough review of it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The Internets if you take out the inner (backward) deflector portion and retune it wakes them up pretty good. Without a primer almost all saws will be starving for fuel once you refuel if it runs out completely. I haven't had problems with mine but some people have had oilers come apart on the 600p and 590 but warranty covers it. You can put an oring around the orange plastic part going into the air filter to keep out fine dust. I'll tune in for the review good luck.
Thanks for the advice! I already made a gasket for the air filter after doing some reading on arboristsite.com and seeing how much really fine stuff was getting sucked into the carburetor after only the first tank of cutting. I'm no small engine mechanic so I'll be doing my homework in the mean time.
That would be awesome. I'd love to see a video of how to do it. I've looked mine over a time or two to get an idea of how I want to do it but it always helps to see somebody do it before you just jump straight into something you've never done before.
Can you address these questions please. 1.) How are the vibes on the hands? 2.) How heavy does it feel? 3.) How easy it is to start cold? 4.) What do you like and what do you not like? 5.) How does it compare to other saws you have used or seen? 6.) Please provide thoughts and comments about the saw based on your experience. Thanks!
Great questions. I'll do my best. 1. The AV system is great. Very little vibration. I've never had issues with it bothering my hands. 2. With the weight of the bar and it fully gassed and oiled up it's probably 18 - 20 pounds. The 24 inch bar balances well but after a couple hours you definitely notice that it's not a small saw. 3. It starts easily. Sometimes I go a month or so without running it and even then it's usually 2 pulls with the choke and 1 or 2 without the choke and it fires right up. Once it's warm it's a one pull start. If I'm working with it day in and day out it will usually start with 1 pull with the choke and then 1 more pull. The decompression valve also makes it very easy to pull but isn't a must. 4. The only things I would change would be that the choke be set up on the same side as the on/off switch and that it would be a lever that slides up and down instead of pulling out. I thought the on/off switch might be an issue as I had heard a decent number of complaints from people who say they regularly accidentally turn off their saw mid cut but that has never happened to me. I did accidentally turn it off once but I wasn't cutting and it was within a month or so of buying it so I'd say it could be blamed on just getting used to the saw. Overall, I'm very happy with it. 5. My saw experience is limited. Other than my 620PW I have used a MS180 and a MS 291. The MS 180 is a great saw it's just too small for a lot of what I need to do but I am looking to get a second saw in the 35CC range at some point for limbing and falling smaller trees. The MS 290 is about the same weight as the 620PW but is not as powerful and is a .325 pitch so it doesn't remove the wood as fast as the 620PW. Having said that, it's still a great saw I just think Echo really knocked it out of the park with the 620P and 620PW; especially for the price. I have never used any of Stihl or Husky's pro grade saws but I can tell you that the 620PW is definitely a big step up from the Stihl farm and ranch saws. 6. As long as it has a sharp chain it won't disappoint. I have no regrets about this purchase. If I had to go back and pay full price rather than the 20% off that I got I would still buy it. At the 20% off price it's an incredible value. It was $300 less than the MS 362 which it's specs compares to quite well other than the Stihl being notably lighter but for the extra $300 it wasn't worth it for me since I'm never running it for more than a day or two at a time and usually only for a few hours at a time. For that reason alone I can see why a profession would want the Stihl but otherwise I think the Echo is on par. That assessment is of course made only by looking at the specs since I've never run the MS362. Thanks for the great questions!
I have an Echo CS490 and I've been looking for a 60cc saw to complement my smaller saws. After looking at offerings from Stihl and Husqvarna, the Echo shares many of the same features at a lesser pricepoint. While the Stihl M-Tronic and Husqvarna Autotune may be nice, they are more complicated systems to install and maintain. The Echo saws are just your standard carb/ 2 cycle engine. No fancy microprocessor controlled carbs or strato charged engines. On a chainsaw, I prefer to keep things simple.
@@kvnmhl, the Dolmar 6100 was on my short list but there aren't any dealers in my area so service would be an issue if I needed it. By all accounts, they seem to be really solid saws.
*You'll vastly enjoy a Stihl, e.g., an MS391. **_Assuming you can ever get it started_** which is a rarity. And, expect to "procure" a fancy-pants precious Stihl from one of their "Stihl Salons" (Golly, we don't ever sell our delicate saws at Big Box Stores!) and at said salon **_they will literally_** hand you your brand new precious delicate Stihle saw, sans a spec of paperwork/box/tools, thru a McDonald's/BK type drive thru window. LITERALLY. Thru a fast food window. And, when it takes 2, 3, 4 thousand pulls to starts their fabulous saw, given to you thru a fast food Stihl Salon window, Stihl will not stand behind the customer or saw.* *Avoid Stihl. Like the plague, except more. They are the most disreputable chainsaw maker by far...they should stick to chicken nuggets.*
Thats a great saw! I just bought one to replace the old Stihl. (Couldn't afford its modern equivalent.) I've felled and bucked 3 big oaks and 1 maple so far and I'm actually VERY impressed! I'd love to hear how yours is holding up.
It's been five years and who's knows how many cords of firewood and I've had zero issues. I keep the chain sharp and break it down every 10-15 hours for a good cleaning and it's still running perfect. I love it. I was impressed enough with it that six months ago when I decided I needed a second smaller saw I went with echo again and got a 361P. I'm just as happy with it as I have been with the 620. This saw really sold me on echo equipment. Since buying it I've also bought an echo backpack blower and string trimmer and they're both fantastic. In my opinion, "Made in Japan" is the way to go.
@@theinternets7516 that's awesome to hear! I've run only German or US made saws my whole life but after the first 10 mins with this thing in the cut my whole outlook changed. This thing PULLS! Can't get anywhere NEAR a 24" bar and 3/8 chain with the big brands for what I spent. Thanks for the reply!
Way less than I want. I only own 1.8 acres. This was filmed on the property of a place that I was renting a room at last year. I'm in medical school and my school's campus is about 2 hours from my house so I lived there for two years and just came home as much as I could (back home now for clinical rotations). This property is about 500 acres and it's beautiful. My landlord was awesome. She let me cut about 4 cords of firewood and bring it home because her property has been hit hard by emerald ash borer. My property is also within the quarantine zone as was the route to get it home so transporting it wasn't really as big of a deal as it sounds like. The ash trees in my area have been decimated as well.
The Internets yeah same here in northwest Pennsylvania. Not many ash trees on my property which sucks for easy firewood but good for the health of the forest I suppose. We just bought 44 acres back in December so we’re new to being landowners.
@@HometownAcres, there is 44 acres right behind us that I'd really like to buy at some point. Honestly, unless you want to farm it, I think the more woods the better. They basically take care of themselves and with enough acreage can sustainably provide free firewood. Either way, land = work but I think it's totally worth it. Glad I found you guys so far it looks like your channel is off to a good start content wise. Keep it up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you put out.
The Internets Thanks. Yeah we have about 15 acres of field that we are going to lease out to a farmer and then the back 29 acres is all woods. Looking forward to seeing how your hunt for land goes!
@@HometownAcres, it will be very slow. I'm going to have to get out from under ~$400K in student loans first, or at least get a good chunk paid down before I can think about buying land. Hopefully in 10 years or so though I'll be in a position to start seriously looking. For now it's just dreaming.
i bought a adapter to use a 36 inch sthil oregon bar on mine to take down a 33 inch dead oak it worked out well to drop it and buck up the bigger stuff.
I bought a stihl 271 farmboss with a 20in bar. Love it. Looked around at husky and echo and for the money stihl was the best buy for me. Saw was 389 and came with an extra chain. Stihls saws have a clean housing I.e choke on left side flush with case vs husky echo have choke and shut off protruding from the case.
I do prefer the Stihl case setup to my echo but to get a pro grade 60cc saw for $485 with a standard handle or $518 (that's including 9.5% sales tax) with a wrap handle was just too good to pass up. I have yet to regret it. My dad has an older ms290 farmboss and it's a great saw but this 620 is in a whole other league. My biggest complaint is that after a couple hours of work it starts to get pretty heavy but that's the same case with the ms290 as well. I think my 620 only outweighs it by a half pound. Stihl makes a great saw for sure though, but for the price I couldn't justify paying the extra $300 for a MS362. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have around 40 saws most decent brands including Stihl and I run a portable sawmill and cut a lot of white oak plus most other spices. I have personally run a Echo CS620 and a Stihl MS271 and the MS271 is gutless compared to the CS620 but keep in mind the MS271 is 50 cc and the Echo CS620 is 59cc. But A Echo CS501p 50cc will also cut faster than a MS271 as the Echo is pro saw
@@oliverm5sc I looked at the specs on the 501p and it doesn't sound like a bad saw. My 271 was cheaper and came with an extra chain. I did my research on what deals were available at the time I purchased mine. I didn't buy a pro grade saw for the weight and the price. I have lower back problems and a lot of the pro saws I looked at weighted more than my 271. I've watched plenty of comparison videos and I'm aware the echo's cut faster but like I stated originally I don't all the switches and choke lever setup on the echo and husky brand saws.
I have the Shindaiwa 600sx same saw. I got mine w 24 in too but put 20 in 72 tsumura. Super nice saw! Yes 3.3kw=4.5hp. Carb adj specs are real easy to find and check. Mine was dead on. Don't know why all the tree guys say echos come lean. Check before you give unneeded advice.
I love mine. I did adjust the H on the carb. It was only running at about 10,500 RPM at full throttle. I took it up to about 12,500 RPM. I think the max is listed as 13,000 RPM. It cuts even better now but does go through noticeable more fuel. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@g.d.7629, I think my biggest complaint with Echo saws after seeing so many comments about how the carb is tuned from the factory (some say rich, some say lean, others say perfect) would just be that they need to be consistent on something like that. These saws really shine when properly tuned and they are doing a huge disservice to their brand by not doing a better job consistently sending them out properly tuned.
Just FYI, engine sound under load at speed (so-called 4-stroking) says it's too rich. Smoke would indicate that too. Break-in best would involve short WOT bursts (like, one bucking cut) with short cool-down @ idle, maybe 10-15 sec, before next cut. For first tank or two, instead of 50:1, go 32:1. Then, as it's said, run it like you stole it. I've made a few cuts with one of these saws- very smooth, good power. If I didn't have a 61 cc Dolmar, maybe ...
I had a few viewers of this video mention that it sounded like it was running rich. I finally took the time to tune the high end and lean it out a little bit and it made a big difference. I was really happy with how it was running initially and it made it even better. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 As I mentioned in comment to your follow-up there's a simple, logical approach to carb adjustment. Absent Auto-Tune (love it!) expect to make minor seasonal (H) adjustments, often simply by ear, @WOT under load in the cut. Running a bit rich is much less of an existential threat than going too lean. Again, that's easily checked for, by ear, @WOT in the cut. (Of course chainsaws are run either @idle or @WOT.) IMHO you might want to work on keeping it under load. Easy to tell by ear when it's just 4-stroking wildly. Often that indicates that it's getting dull- happens really suddenly with full-chisel, NOT with semi-. BTDT
Man dude you must hang out at the dealer. im in illinois and they never mention dealer days here. I bot the shindaiwa 600sx same saw just red/black no wrap handle available. But you can add for about $118 SOB Yes I shud have got the echo
When I was researching what saw to get I saw it mentioned on several threads on arboristsite.com and looked up when a local place was having their one day sale and then set an appointment in my phone so I wouldn't forget. At the time the PW models were in back order and it took 2 months for it to finally come in. It was totally worth it though. It's a great saw. I just got a 32" bar for it and it pulls well. I tested it out in a 32"x40" red oak stump. That video is up on my channel if you want to see it.
I've got the CS-590, which is almost the same saw. Check out my channel for milling video. I've milled a lot... Walnut, Maple, Cedar, Hickory, Elm, Ash. Oregon bar and ripping chain. I've also used Archer ripping chains. It's either 27 or 28". I think 27.
@@oldmtnwoodworking thanks for that info I currently own 2 cs 590s and man what a fucking saw . these things are monsters. I also just orderd a granburgh mill and was considering upgrading to the 620 or even the 680 for that 27 inch bar lengths. I will go check out your page now
Bought the same saw today and I can't get it started. The dealer started it left fuel in it. Guess I'll have to take it back. Switch is up on the run position. Pulled the choke. Pushed down the decompression valve. It won't even turn over and act like it wants to run.
This motor floods very easily. I hope that's the issue for you. To fix it: try starting it with the choke in and gripping the handle for full throttle while pulling the cord repeatedly. It's tricky, but it will clear a flooding issue pretty quickly. I ran into this when I first got my CS-590 (same motor). Good luck!
If you can't start an echo within 8 pulls max...you did something wrong lol. 1 make sure your on switch is up 2 pull out your choke 3 pull till it sounds like it revs once 4 push choke in and pull to turn on 5 press throttle to idle 6 lastly like i said if you can't get it started within these 5 steps guess what? Your on switch is off 😆
@@jdp8944 What if the switch is on and it won't start then genius? You must of missed the part where he said the switch was on and it doesn't sound like it wants to run. It's under warranty and if it's not something easily remedied (if he's mechanically inclined at all) then he should take it back to keep the warranty intact. I've had brand new pieces of equipment come into the shop with defective parts and I've even started a brand new 8' trowel to load on a customers truck for them to bring it back in less than two hours because of a bad connection inside the windings of the starter. I've had a saw come back because the spark plug wire wasn't fully seated in the boot and it lost connection even though it ran fine in the shop but the customer didn't know enough to check the basics. Any equipment I send out is started and fully tested in house before it goes anywhere but things still happen. Granted that most problems on new equipment are operator induced it isn't always the case and I'm sure you've had more than your fair share of dumbass moments. If every other manufacturer in the world can have problems with brand new equipment then I'm sure Echo can too.
It depends on what you want to use it for. If you plan on using it as a farm and ranch saw and a 20" bar is plenty big enough then I think the 501P will be an excellent choice. It's also considerably lighter than the 620PW. Things to consider are that the 501P is a .325 pitch and doesn't have a wrap handle but if you aren't doing a lot of falling then not having a wrap handle doesn't really matter anyway. If you do plan on doing a lot of falling then the wrap handle will come in handy. I also like the faster cut of a 3/8 pitch chain on a more powerful saw but that comes at a price. The 620PW is probably pushing 20 pounds with a 24'' bar and filled full of oil and gas. I'm guessing the 501P is probably a good 5-6 pounds lighter especially if you are running an 18" bar on it. I've considered getting a 16" bar for the 620 just to save on weight when I'm doing a lot of cutting on trees that are 14" in diameter and under. I really love my saw but it does get heavy after a while. My opinion on the perfect solution to your dilemma would be to get a 620PW AND a 361P but that's an expensive proposition. I intend on buying a 361P in the future for small trees and limbing so I'm not having to wield such a large saw all the time. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Also, if you can get by without buying the saw for a while wait and buy it on a dealer days promotion and it'll save you 20%.
I would personally go with a a CS-501P-18 or CS-620P-20. The 501P is 50cc 3.5 hp and super light at 10 pounds. The 620P is 60cc 4.5hp and average weight at 13 pounds for a 60cc on a metal chassis. So if you are leaning towards power to weight ratio, get he 501P, if you are strong enough to accommodate the additional 3 pounds and need the extra power go 620. Both are XP models from echo meaning the engines, power and features are true pro grade.
The 501p is about like husq 545 but in videos 545 outcuts it. But they were supposedly new out of box. Echo takes few tanks to come alive. I have 490. Thinking of 501p??
Depends on how much the repair cost will be. If you can get it repaired for less $300 and you think that'll have running well for a long time to come I'd say repair the Stihl. If not, get a 620.
Nice saw, lean it out on the H some, its running to rich and giving up power. It 4 strokes in the cut alot. Should only 4 stroke when you lift up and take the load off.
@@theinternets7516 Awesome to hear, its amazing how much a little turn on the H screw either way can do, to rich and it gives up power and to lean its dangerous for the saw and even though turns more RPM wide open out of the cut as soon as it hits wood it will fall flat because it doesn't have enough fuel.
It's a great saw. I finally settled on a 3510 for a smaller saw. I was going back and forth between the 361P and the 501P but the 361P was expensive for the power and the 501P was heavier than I wanted for a small saw and I happened to see that the 3510 is lighter than the 361P and has the same HP and is $200 less so that's going to be my next saw. I'll be putting up some videos and reviews once it's broken in.
@@johnnyowens5276, This saw has so much more than the 590 for an extra $200 ($170 if you don't get a wrap handle). Magnesium clutch cover, rim sprocket, aluminum handle, extra .75 HP (4.5HP total), and higher quality motor components. Don't get me wrong, the 590 is a good saw and a great deal but this saw is a lot more than a 590 with a fancy handle. As for the the 565XP, I don't know where you're finding one in the $670 range. The cheapest I've seen them is around $770. It's also a 70cc, 5.0HP saw. It's a great saw but where I'm at I'd be looking at getting it out the door for close to $850 after tax so that's not even close to $518 I got the echo out the door for (granted that was with a 20% discount). The MS261 is a 50cc, 4.0 HP saw and it's only got a .325 pitch chain. It would cost me about $540 out the door. Once again, it's a good saw but it's also not really comparable to the 620 and not really worth buying considering the 620P can be had out the door for ~$485 or the 620PW out the door for ~$520 on a one day sale.. The big advantage the MS261 has is that it's 3 pounds lighter. I have no regrets about buying this saw and I totally stand by saying it's the best saw for the money. I've had it for two years now and still love it. If you would like to watch my two year review of it that I just posted a few days ago, here is a link to it. ua-cam.com/video/KwhaNj8aQ20/v-deo.html
This saw has me interested but I already have a Makita DCS6421 which is pretty comparable. This saw is what 4.5hp and 60cc? The Makita is 64cc and 4.7hp so really not enough difference for me to really justify buying one unless I find a like new used one cheap like I got my Makita for $250.
Yeah. If you have the Makita I don't see much reason to get this one as well. The Makita/Dolmar was on my short list of saws when I bought this one but there is no Dolmar dealer support in my area so it was easier to go with the echo. It's been great so far. I have no regrets at this point.
@@theinternets7516 I don't know of any Echo or Dolmar dealers around here. Its mostly all Stihl. There is probably 4 Stihl to every 1 Husqvarna dealer. You can order any of them online though. One of the reasons I prefer Stihl though is that they have dealers everywhere and I kinda like they don't sell at big box stores. However the Makita I have you can get at Home Depot. Mine was actually originally a rental tool from Home Depot. I think they are $700 at Home Depot but they sell the rental tools ever couple years. I bought mine from a guy who bought it as a retire d rental and I gave him $250 for it.
@@JesseLJohnson, I had considered doing that same thing but the Home Depot stores in my area didn't have any available. I also wanted to be able to take it to a dealer if a service issue came up, especially since echo has a five year warranty.
@@theinternets7516 Only 2 times I ever took anything in for warranty they wouldn't honor them and one was an Echo it was less then a year old. The other was a Redmax (Husqvarna) and it was brand new. The screw for the oiler was broke off in the box. I ended up just buying the part both times. I have heard a lot of people having trouble getting Echo to honor their warranty. Not as bad as Efco though who gives 7 years but what good is the warranty if they refuse to honor it.
I prefer Stihl.. But Echo make good saws for the money. Especialy the TimberWolf and up. Plus if you buy then from Home Depot they will literally let you return it in any condition.
I've been very happy with mine. It's been two and half years now and it's still running great. I've been running a 32" bar with a full skip chain lately and as long as the chain is sharp it still rips through everything. For the money, I don't think it can be beat. My neighbor has a 362 but aside from weighing 13% less I haven't found the 362 to be a better saw and certainly not worth the extra $300 since. For someone who uses their saw to make a living I can see where the reduced weight would be worth the premium price. The 362 is a great saw I just don't think it's $300 better if you're not using it on a daily basis. If I were going to spend that kind of money I'd be ordering a CS7310. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Awesome. I'll check that out. I hate to ruin the warranty so I'm going to leave mine stock until the warranty runs out and then I plan to do a muffler mod as well.
@@theinternets7516 I don't waste my time porting saw. If I need more power I buy a bigger saw, which rewards you with more power and reliability than a ported smaller unit...
It is an Oregon 72LPX81CQ. That's what it comes with from echo. This chain is hard to find though so I have since bought several Oregon 72LGX81G chains. Both are full comp and neither is low kickback. They perform roughly the same.
The only real difference is the 620pw has the full wrap handle and a magnesium sprocket cover instead of plastic. Same hp, same cc, same fuel capacity. Cs-590 handles a 27" bar and chain all day long. #echo did a great job marketing the same saw as 3 different models, cs-590, cs-620, and cs-620pw.
It's also got a rim sprocket instead of spur and factory ported exhaust that adds another 0.6 hp putting it up to 4.5hp. The extra $100 buys you a lot but the 590 is definitely a solid saw.
Land Home & Lawn Services the coil, carb, cylinder, crankcase, sprocket, sprocket cover, and aluminum handles are all different between the cs590 and cs620. The 600 has been discontinued but it was just a loaded cs590 anyway
@@copenhagensnuff5991, Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. I'd like to do a full on review now that I've been using for a little more than a year. It's a great saw. Zero problems and as long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything.
I love it. I had another viewer comment the same thing about that and I finally did it a couple months ago. It runs even better now. I definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a strong and reliable 60cc saw.
Definitely was a cold run! These fire first pull with no choke when warmed up even hot starts!! First time there with a bigger saw budd? You definitely don't do a first tank at idle!!
Everything I read at the time had suggested that I should let it idle through a tank, but yes, it was my first time with a bigger saw. It doesn't seem to have done it any harm. I've run it a lot over the last two years and it's still doing awesome. It was a cold start. It's incredible easy to start when it's warm.
NEVER EVER RUN/USE YOUR SAW UNTILL ITS WARM TAKES ABOUT 2 MINUTES IF YOU DONT DO THIS THE EXHAUST SIDE OF THE PISTON WILL GET DAMAGED THIS RUN TIME IN THIS VID IS NOT LONG EHOUGH TRUST ME IT IS NOT !!!!!!
I let it warm up but I edited that part out. You can notice a little blip in the footage before I start cutting and that's after I let it warm up. I did learn this from Steve's Small Engine Saloon about 6 months ago though and was guilty before that of not always giving it enough time to warm up. I always do now though and it's still running great. Thanks for taking the time to share that information though. It's definitely important for people to know that.
You're not the first to mention this. I did a carb tune after this was pointed out to me and it runs even better now. It's been almost 4 years since I got this saw and it's been incredible. I've even run it with a 30" bar on one occasion. There is a video of that if you'd like to see it. It's definitely maxed out but it still does it and shows what a strong and versatile saw this is.
I just paid almost $800 for mine with an additional bar and chain. Stopped at my normal dealer and the man didn't have a single saw to sell - poor man. I had to stop at 3 other shops looking for a CS 590 and when I heard the price I just about pooped my pants but this was all that had that suited my needed and I needed the saw right away.
Echo makes Good reliable saws, but the people saying "pro grade" bla bla bla......have absolutely NO CLUE what they're talking about, end of story.....you might want to "research" what goes into a REAL Professional Grade saw first.....
I'll put it this way, whether you feel like its truly "pro grade" or not, its definitely a step up from the stihl and husky farm and ranch saws and since I'm not making my living with this saw it is more than enough saw for me. I will say that I stand by it being the best saw for the money whether or not its the best saw period may be a different story but it was also $300 less than a ms362. If you've never used one I would highly recommend giving one a try. I've been very happy with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You got that right i own a stihl farmbossand several others a 261c an 038mag but my echo 620p totally spanks the stihl farm ranch series starts better too first echo i ever ran i still have its at least 8 years old a cs400 with muff mod ancarb limiters removed for tune that little cs400 is one of my favorite saws to this day i use it all the time i run stihl chains on all my saws regardless of saw brand
Mike Fu you keep saying it’s not a pro saw. I’ve been told it is by a local saw dealer that it is a pro saw. Since you seem to know more than anyone else please enlighten us on why it isn’t a pro saw
The 620 is a pro saw. It has a full wrap handle, different bar and most importantly, different cylinder components. Look it up. ECHO makes great saws and I own other brands too.
What makes them disposable if they rip so well? If it's not a good saw why do you have two? I intend on buying a 361P at some point because so far the performance and reliability has been fantastic on my 620PW. I run 90 octane ethanol free gas and don't let gas just sit around in the tank. It starts easily every time and as long as the chain is sharp eats through everything without any trouble. As I've mentioned in response to others, I am only using mine as a farm and ranch/firewood saw so that may make a difference but so far I've got no major complaints. I would definitely buy it again. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Clearly he owns the non pro saws....the 620 p is a pro saw wheather people like it or not!!it says it right in the Manuel.."pro saw"I am a pro and I use mine everyday too so there ya go!
@@stevenblake8642 that's what's up. I'd buy a used stihl any day, but to each his own. Echo saws aren't easy enough to repair/rebuild for me. Stihl owns hundreds of patents and parts are easy to come by
Cute toy now next year buy a Stihl 462 c or 500i I did and have no regrets first I got 251 cm the I got a 261 cm and 170 fir limbs and teaching my daughter and wife then my dad and c wife got my the 500i fir Xmas I am a logger and a firewood producer though you may not need to spend 1700 on a saw or be able to all I’m saying is they are better then the echo you get what you pay for
Comparing this saw with 70-80 cc saws is a ridiculous endeavor. As for 60 cc saws I stand by my assessment that it is the best saw for the money. I've used it for nearly 5 years with up to a 30" bar and it's done everything I've ever needed it to and spent zero time in the shop for repairs. If you don't like Echo that's okay. Enjoy your Stihl and try to be less of dick.
Ned flanders with a saw
That is a very nice saw! I bought an Echo TimberWolf CS590 20" bar as my first chain saw and it's great for my needs. Sort of a one-size-fits-all for me. I handled a 620 at the store, and got that "I need to buy this" feeling haha so my next or additional chainsaw will probably be it or an equivalent by Echo. Grandpa said years ago Echo's are great saws, so that's how I roll.
Honestly, unless you need two 60cc saws you'd be better off to just port the exhaust and mod the muffler on your 590 and then take the savings and buy a 361P so that you have a nice light powerful saw for the times that you don't need something so big as the 590. I think the 361P will most likely be my next saw purchase to use on stuff that's 10 inches or smaller. That 620 gets really heavy after a couple hours.
@@theinternets7516 That's a good point! Yes the 620 at the store seemed noticeably heavier. The 590 seems like a god one size fits all for me so I'll stick with that! Maybe I'll buy another.
Mod the muffler, pull the carb limiters and adjust it then change the spur sprocket to a rim/drum (CALL Oregon bar and chain for the kit, Echo makes one for the 600/620 that fits the 590 but it expensive, Oregon will tell you which one you need). You will be happy with it. Did this to my sons 590 I gave him and the saw pulls extremely well. I also put a Lite weight bar on it but to be honest it doesn't need it.
The Echo 590 is 13.2 lbs dry, the Stihl 361 comes in at 12.6 dry that half of a pound isn't worth the extra money and BHP ratings given by manufacturers are over rated in my opinion. I have a Stihl 036 and the Echo can pull along side my Stihl all day long. Learn to keep the chain sharp, air filter clean, do bar maintenance, run 89 octane ethanol free gas and a GOOD air cooled 2 cycle oil and that saw will last the average wood cutter a life time. Also the 590 we got was setup from the factory running almost 1500rpm below max, leaned it out during the tune process to 12.5K (500 below max) and that saw came to life. The saw will give it's best torque in the cut around 9/9.5K rpm.
He states that he doesn't care for the choke position and each person is different, the choke doesn't bother me where it is located HOWEVER I don't care for the on/off toggle switch and prefer the Husky slide switch even over my stihl switch, but like I said each person is different and everyone would prefer something setup a little differently.
To the internets, thanks for posting this video and showing the Echo.
I bought a new 620P just over a year ago new with a 24" setup for $450 US. My dealer had removed the carb caps, tuned it properly, replaced the caps, and says he will stand behind the 5 year warranty (says " I don't understand, they must have set it up that way at ECHO."). I have run about 40 gallons of fuel through it, and it runs great. Always starts on 4-5 pulls, starts on the first pull the rest of the day. Keep the chain sharp, the filters clean, and use ethanol free fuel, and this saw will keep on going. I would buy this saw again, and would recommend it to anyone wanting a quality, dependable saw. Looking back on the purchase I just can't justify the $330 difference between the 620P and the 362cm for my use.
That's a hell of a dealer. Mine set it up, put gas and oil in it and hit the bar with some grease (which I was very happy about) but that's incredible, and still honoring the warranty to boot. That guy would have a customer for life it was me. I've been really happy with mine so far as well. Like you said, super easy to start and definitely not worth the extra money for the 362 for what I'm doing with it. Honestly, even if I was running it daily I don't know that it would be worth the extra money for a 362. I think if I were going to be making a living with my saw I'd probably go for a Stihl 462 CM to cut a little weight and add A LOT of power but when you're not using it day in and day out that's just not necessary and that kind of money just can't be justified. I have been wanting to mod the muffler but it does so well already that it's not worth losing the warranty. Once it hits 5 years old though I'm definitely going to be doing some work on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 Never modify the muffler. Research how 2 stroke engines use the restrictive pressure in the muffler to reflect sound waves back into the combustion chamber, causing a turbo boost effect. The restrictive muffler on a 2 stroke is functioning as a turbocharger. If you make the hole too large on the muffler, it removes all the back pressure, removing the boost effect.
This is why they have TINY exhaust pipes coming out of the back of 500cc motocross bikes (only 1" around" at the tail pipe). Less back pressure does not mean more power on a 2 stroke! Ever. Measuring the RPM's with a tachometer and free revving a saw is not a valid way of measuring horsepower. A super lean mixture will get you 14,500 rpms, which is not equal to more power. If you do modify the muffler, don't change the size of the outlet. It's ok to remove the guts inside the muffler, but it's not ok to simply make the exit hole on the mufffler larger, because then you ruin the "tuned pipe" effect of the muffler.
All 2 strokes work best with a small restriction hole on the muffler canister, to reflect the sound waves, and cause reversion in the cylinder. On a 2 cycle, the reversion of air fuel, is actually beneficial, and can double the horsepower versus a standard open muffler with no restrictor. Most homeade 2 stroke mufflers have way too large of exhaust opening on the muffler, which means there is no tuned pipe effect.
Now, I am saying this without any direct knowledge of the muffler mods on your model of CS-620. Just be very clear that you research how a tuned pipe works on 2 strokes, before you wreck your beautiful stock muffler. You have a beautiful chainsaw. It's super bad ass in stock form!
@@Ritalie, Thanks for the detailed explanation. I had never really thought about the 2-stroke dirt bikes until you brought it up. That's an excellent point. I'll definitely do some reading on it.
The Internets I agree there is no need to modify the muffler. Making it louder doesn’t necessarily create substantially more power, it’s more of a psychological effect. IMO it’s the equivalent of the kid with a Honda Civic and a fart muffler.
Has anyone actually proved that it makes more power or cuts any faster with the muffler gutted. I have yet to see any substantial evidence.
Is it worth the added annoying loudness? The muffler is there for a reason, to quiet it down.
The saw cuts just fine stock, does it not?
@@williamkillingsworth2619 , I have only seen timed cuts but that's not exactly scientific. If I were to do it it would be later once the warranty is gone and mainly just to mess around and see if it helps any not because I feel like I really need the additional power. If it doesn't help and/or it's way too loud it's not that hard to put a new muffler back on it.
That'll be my next saw.
Recently got a 590 with a 24" bar but haven't cut anything over 16" with it, got an outer dog for a 620 coming next week, suppose to bolt right up on the 590.
It sounds like my neighbor is having a bunch of her hardwood trees professionally felled, said I could have it all...if it turns out to be as much as I think that's where a 620 would be necessary.
Nice chaps btw, they're very nice for the price, very secure feeling and comfortable...takes a few minutes to get them all buckled up and adjusted but it's well worth it.
Definitely right about the chaps. I don't cut without them. They've even saved me a little nick on top of my thigh this past summer. The 620 is great. I've had zero issues with it over the last three years. As long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything. I can't recommend it highly enough. You'll love it. I'm picking up a 355T in a couple weeks and I'm really excited to have a small saw for limbing to go along with the 620.
@@theinternets7516
Nice, those top handles look real comfortable to run even on the ground...I'm afraid I'd be too tempted to run one with one hand tho which could result in my right bicep getting filleted, lol...I'll have to stick with my 400 for limbing and small stuff.
Take care and stay safe man.
great vid good to see it cut dense green wood. im gettng one. nice spot to
You're going to love it.
Badass saw bud ! I have and echo cs 590 timberwolf and love it , echo makes a great saw !
It's been awesome. I've had it for three years now and absolutely love it. Zero problems and a real workhorse.
@@theinternets7516 Awesome ,😎
Good looking saw
It's been great. 10/10 would recommend.
Just a thought. Ebay guy in texas has new 620pw 20in $525 delivered.Its $499 and he will ship $25. Has good feedback.
I have the same saw, use it all the time. I love it, I'll never go back.
I had a cs670.... it was alright. But I like the MS462 a lot more.
That's a whole other ball game. Awesome saw, but not even close to a fair comparison.
The Internets damn right. That ms462 is pretty awesome. I mean, considering it’s only 72cc and makes more hp than this echo and managed to be even lighter than the cs800. More of everything except weight. Also got a STIHL 064. Never get bored w that either
Vox Populi me and my buddies just started a part time tree service and my buddy bought a brand new MS461 and I bought this CS620PW. He was talking all kinds of shit till we were cutting side by side on the same 18” log and his brand new MS461 at 76.5cc was no faster than my 60cc Echo. The Echo CS670 was a piece of shit saw and would get smoked by the 620 so that would sour anyone on Echo. The new Echo X series are nothing like the old Echos when it comes to performance. They are however like them for reliability.
ILoveSpeed716 Wait until it’s broken in properly, unless he hasn’t already ruined that, but I doubt it. Right now it’s tight, like any new machine
Great saws I love mine. It will pick up a little power as it breaks in (about 10 tanks of fuel) They seem to be very durable and keep up with other 60cc saws pretty well.
So far so good. I'm on my 6th or 7th tank. It runs really strong. I've thought about doing a muffler mod and carb tune once it's fully broken in. It's amazing how much of a time saver it has been over the ms 180. I know that's not even a close or fair comparison but it's what I was used to working with and this thing is just not even in the same league. It's like peewee vs NFL. My only complaint aside from the choke location and the stop start toggle switch location is that if you run it totally out of gas it's like it has to warm back up or something after you refule it. When I try to give it gas it wants to act like it's going to flood unless I let it idle for a minute or so. I've started just not letting it run out of gas completely so I don't have to deal with it. Once I've got some good run time on it I'm going to do a really thorough review of it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The Internets if you take out the inner (backward) deflector portion and retune it wakes them up pretty good. Without a primer almost all saws will be starving for fuel once you refuel if it runs out completely. I haven't had problems with mine but some people have had oilers come apart on the 600p and 590 but warranty covers it. You can put an oring around the orange plastic part going into the air filter to keep out fine dust. I'll tune in for the review good luck.
Thanks for the advice! I already made a gasket for the air filter after doing some reading on arboristsite.com and seeing how much really fine stuff was getting sucked into the carburetor after only the first tank of cutting. I'm no small engine mechanic so I'll be doing my homework in the mean time.
That would be awesome. I'd love to see a video of how to do it. I've looked mine over a time or two to get an idea of how I want to do it but it always helps to see somebody do it before you just jump straight into something you've never done before.
@James Miller please make vid and post. I'd love to learn
I love my 620p
So far mine's been really great.
Can you address these questions please.
1.) How are the vibes on the hands?
2.) How heavy does it feel?
3.) How easy it is to start cold?
4.) What do you like and what do you not like?
5.) How does it compare to other saws you have used or seen?
6.) Please provide thoughts and comments about the saw based on your experience.
Thanks!
Great questions. I'll do my best.
1. The AV system is great. Very little vibration. I've never had issues with it bothering my hands.
2. With the weight of the bar and it fully gassed and oiled up it's probably 18 - 20 pounds. The 24 inch bar balances well but after a couple hours you definitely notice that it's not a small saw.
3. It starts easily. Sometimes I go a month or so without running it and even then it's usually 2 pulls with the choke and 1 or 2 without the choke and it fires right up. Once it's warm it's a one pull start. If I'm working with it day in and day out it will usually start with 1 pull with the choke and then 1 more pull. The decompression valve also makes it very easy to pull but isn't a must.
4. The only things I would change would be that the choke be set up on the same side as the on/off switch and that it would be a lever that slides up and down instead of pulling out. I thought the on/off switch might be an issue as I had heard a decent number of complaints from people who say they regularly accidentally turn off their saw mid cut but that has never happened to me. I did accidentally turn it off once but I wasn't cutting and it was within a month or so of buying it so I'd say it could be blamed on just getting used to the saw. Overall, I'm very happy with it.
5. My saw experience is limited. Other than my 620PW I have used a MS180 and a MS 291. The MS 180 is a great saw it's just too small for a lot of what I need to do but I am looking to get a second saw in the 35CC range at some point for limbing and falling smaller trees. The MS 290 is about the same weight as the 620PW but is not as powerful and is a .325 pitch so it doesn't remove the wood as fast as the 620PW. Having said that, it's still a great saw I just think Echo really knocked it out of the park with the 620P and 620PW; especially for the price. I have never used any of Stihl or Husky's pro grade saws but I can tell you that the 620PW is definitely a big step up from the Stihl farm and ranch saws.
6. As long as it has a sharp chain it won't disappoint. I have no regrets about this purchase. If I had to go back and pay full price rather than the 20% off that I got I would still buy it. At the 20% off price it's an incredible value. It was $300 less than the MS 362 which it's specs compares to quite well other than the Stihl being notably lighter but for the extra $300 it wasn't worth it for me since I'm never running it for more than a day or two at a time and usually only for a few hours at a time. For that reason alone I can see why a profession would want the Stihl but otherwise I think the Echo is on par. That assessment is of course made only by looking at the specs since I've never run the MS362. Thanks for the great questions!
Respect it....don’t fear it
I have an Echo CS490 and I've been looking for a 60cc saw to complement my smaller saws. After looking at offerings from Stihl and Husqvarna, the Echo shares many of the same features at a lesser pricepoint. While the Stihl M-Tronic and Husqvarna Autotune may be nice, they are more complicated systems to install and maintain. The Echo saws are just your standard carb/ 2 cycle engine. No fancy microprocessor controlled carbs or strato charged engines. On a chainsaw, I prefer to keep things simple.
You won't be disappointed with the 620. It's a fantastic saw.
I'm just asking. Have u considered a Dolmar/Makita?
@@kvnmhl, the Dolmar 6100 was on my short list but there aren't any dealers in my area so service would be an issue if I needed it. By all accounts, they seem to be really solid saws.
@@kvnmhl +1 on the Dolmar!!!
*You'll vastly enjoy a Stihl, e.g., an MS391. **_Assuming you can ever get it started_** which is a rarity. And, expect to "procure" a fancy-pants precious Stihl from one of their "Stihl Salons" (Golly, we don't ever sell our delicate saws at Big Box Stores!) and at said salon **_they will literally_** hand you your brand new precious delicate Stihle saw, sans a spec of paperwork/box/tools, thru a McDonald's/BK type drive thru window. LITERALLY. Thru a fast food window. And, when it takes 2, 3, 4 thousand pulls to starts their fabulous saw, given to you thru a fast food Stihl Salon window, Stihl will not stand behind the customer or saw.*
*Avoid Stihl. Like the plague, except more. They are the most disreputable chainsaw maker by far...they should stick to chicken nuggets.*
I cud have got a deal on echo 620p with wrap handle. But bought Shindaiwa 600sx. Same exact saw 3.3 kw=4.5hp
I've heard they're just a rebadge. Everyone that's mentioned them says they're great.
Thats a great saw! I just bought one to replace the old Stihl. (Couldn't afford its modern equivalent.) I've felled and bucked 3 big oaks and 1 maple so far and I'm actually VERY impressed! I'd love to hear how yours is holding up.
It's been five years and who's knows how many cords of firewood and I've had zero issues. I keep the chain sharp and break it down every 10-15 hours for a good cleaning and it's still running perfect. I love it. I was impressed enough with it that six months ago when I decided I needed a second smaller saw I went with echo again and got a 361P. I'm just as happy with it as I have been with the 620. This saw really sold me on echo equipment. Since buying it I've also bought an echo backpack blower and string trimmer and they're both fantastic. In my opinion, "Made in Japan" is the way to go.
@@theinternets7516 that's awesome to hear! I've run only German or US made saws my whole life but after the first 10 mins with this thing in the cut my whole outlook changed. This thing PULLS! Can't get anywhere NEAR a 24" bar and 3/8 chain with the big brands for what I spent. Thanks for the reply!
How much acreage do you own? That is a beautiful creek in the background.
Way less than I want. I only own 1.8 acres. This was filmed on the property of a place that I was renting a room at last year. I'm in medical school and my school's campus is about 2 hours from my house so I lived there for two years and just came home as much as I could (back home now for clinical rotations). This property is about 500 acres and it's beautiful. My landlord was awesome. She let me cut about 4 cords of firewood and bring it home because her property has been hit hard by emerald ash borer. My property is also within the quarantine zone as was the route to get it home so transporting it wasn't really as big of a deal as it sounds like. The ash trees in my area have been decimated as well.
The Internets yeah same here in northwest Pennsylvania. Not many ash trees on my property which sucks for easy firewood but good for the health of the forest I suppose. We just bought 44 acres back in December so we’re new to being landowners.
@@HometownAcres, there is 44 acres right behind us that I'd really like to buy at some point. Honestly, unless you want to farm it, I think the more woods the better. They basically take care of themselves and with enough acreage can sustainably provide free firewood. Either way, land = work but I think it's totally worth it. Glad I found you guys so far it looks like your channel is off to a good start content wise. Keep it up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you put out.
The Internets Thanks. Yeah we have about 15 acres of field that we are going to lease out to a farmer and then the back 29 acres is all woods. Looking forward to seeing how your hunt for land goes!
@@HometownAcres, it will be very slow. I'm going to have to get out from under ~$400K in student loans first, or at least get a good chunk paid down before I can think about buying land. Hopefully in 10 years or so though I'll be in a position to start seriously looking. For now it's just dreaming.
Found one on Marketplace for $250 used one season. Great saw
That's a great price! It'll last you forever.
i bought a adapter to use a 36 inch sthil oregon bar on mine to take down a 33 inch dead oak it worked out well to drop it and buck up the bigger stuff.
I have a 30 inch echo bar that gets occasional use for big stuff but in general I the 24 inch bar is perfect for this saw.
@@theinternets7516 ya i only use it for a few cuts 24 is plenty for most and alot more balanced
I bought a stihl 271 farmboss with a 20in bar. Love it. Looked around at husky and echo and for the money stihl was the best buy for me. Saw was 389 and came with an extra chain. Stihls saws have a clean housing I.e choke on left side flush with case vs husky echo have choke and shut off protruding from the case.
I do prefer the Stihl case setup to my echo but to get a pro grade 60cc saw for $485 with a standard handle or $518 (that's including 9.5% sales tax) with a wrap handle was just too good to pass up. I have yet to regret it. My dad has an older ms290 farmboss and it's a great saw but this 620 is in a whole other league. My biggest complaint is that after a couple hours of work it starts to get pretty heavy but that's the same case with the ms290 as well. I think my 620 only outweighs it by a half pound. Stihl makes a great saw for sure though, but for the price I couldn't justify paying the extra $300 for a MS362. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your MS271 is gutless compared to this saw
@@oliverm5sc how so? Because I merely gave my opinion on what I like and what work's for me. What are you running? What kind of wood are you cutting ?
I have around 40 saws most decent brands including Stihl and I run a portable sawmill and cut a lot of white oak plus most other spices. I have personally run a Echo CS620 and a Stihl MS271 and the MS271 is gutless compared to the CS620 but keep in mind the MS271 is 50 cc and the Echo CS620 is 59cc. But A Echo CS501p 50cc will also cut faster than a MS271 as the Echo is pro saw
@@oliverm5sc I looked at the specs on the 501p and it doesn't sound like a bad saw. My 271 was cheaper and came with an extra chain. I did my research on what deals were available at the time I purchased mine. I didn't buy a pro grade saw for the weight and the price. I have lower back problems and a lot of the pro saws I looked at weighted more than my 271. I've watched plenty of comparison videos and I'm aware the echo's cut faster but like I stated originally I don't all the switches and choke lever setup on the echo and husky brand saws.
I have the Shindaiwa 600sx same saw. I got mine w 24 in too but put 20 in 72 tsumura. Super nice saw! Yes 3.3kw=4.5hp. Carb adj specs are real easy to find and check. Mine was dead on. Don't know why all the tree guys say echos come lean. Check before you give unneeded advice.
I love mine. I did adjust the H on the carb. It was only running at about 10,500 RPM at full throttle. I took it up to about 12,500 RPM. I think the max is listed as 13,000 RPM. It cuts even better now but does go through noticeable more fuel. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Carb specs are a little strange on the echo 620/shindaiwa 600sx low 1&5/8ccw from seat high 5/8ccw from seat. Seems assbackwards.
Also you know everybody says echos come so lean. My settings were dead on.
@@g.d.7629, I think my biggest complaint with Echo saws after seeing so many comments about how the carb is tuned from the factory (some say rich, some say lean, others say perfect) would just be that they need to be consistent on something like that. These saws really shine when properly tuned and they are doing a huge disservice to their brand by not doing a better job consistently sending them out properly tuned.
@@theinternets7516 They are good saws for sure.
Just FYI, engine sound under load at speed (so-called 4-stroking) says it's too rich. Smoke would indicate that too. Break-in best would involve short WOT bursts (like, one bucking cut) with short cool-down @ idle, maybe 10-15 sec, before next cut. For first tank or two, instead of 50:1, go 32:1. Then, as it's said, run it like you stole it. I've made a few cuts with one of these saws- very smooth, good power. If I didn't have a 61 cc Dolmar, maybe ...
I had a few viewers of this video mention that it sounded like it was running rich. I finally took the time to tune the high end and lean it out a little bit and it made a big difference. I was really happy with how it was running initially and it made it even better. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 As I mentioned in comment to your follow-up there's a simple, logical approach to carb adjustment. Absent Auto-Tune (love it!) expect to make minor seasonal (H) adjustments, often simply by ear, @WOT under load in the cut. Running a bit rich is much less of an existential threat than going too lean. Again, that's easily checked for, by ear, @WOT in the cut. (Of course chainsaws are run either @idle or @WOT.) IMHO you might want to work on keeping it under load. Easy to tell by ear when it's just 4-stroking wildly. Often that indicates that it's getting dull- happens really suddenly with full-chisel, NOT with semi-. BTDT
They are really a pro saw, Dont let a new engine idle! Just dont rev it without a load on it, it needs to make cylinder pressure to break in.
Man dude you must hang out at the dealer. im in illinois and they never mention dealer days here. I bot the shindaiwa 600sx same saw just red/black no wrap handle available. But you can add for about $118 SOB Yes I shud have got the echo
When I was researching what saw to get I saw it mentioned on several threads on arboristsite.com and looked up when a local place was having their one day sale and then set an appointment in my phone so I wouldn't forget. At the time the PW models were in back order and it took 2 months for it to finally come in. It was totally worth it though. It's a great saw. I just got a 32" bar for it and it pulls well. I tested it out in a 32"x40" red oak stump. That video is up on my channel if you want to see it.
If anyone has done any milling with a 620 please let me know what size bar you used and how it went.
I've got the CS-590, which is almost the same saw. Check out my channel for milling video. I've milled a lot... Walnut, Maple, Cedar, Hickory, Elm, Ash. Oregon bar and ripping chain. I've also used Archer ripping chains. It's either 27 or 28". I think 27.
Awesome. I'll definitely check out those videos. Thanks!
@@oldmtnwoodworking thanks for that info
I currently own 2 cs 590s and man what a fucking saw . these things are monsters. I also just orderd a granburgh mill and was considering upgrading to the 620 or even the 680 for that 27 inch bar lengths. I will go check out your page now
@@oldmtnwoodworking the 620 is more powerful and has a bigger carb and unlimited coil.
Bought the same saw today and I can't get it started. The dealer started it left fuel in it. Guess I'll have to take it back. Switch is up on the run position. Pulled the choke. Pushed down the decompression valve. It won't even turn over and act like it wants to run.
Did the dealer run bad gas through it? The dealer had mine assembled, greased and fueled it so it started right up. How many pulls have you given it?
This motor floods very easily. I hope that's the issue for you. To fix it: try starting it with the choke in and gripping the handle for full throttle while pulling the cord repeatedly. It's tricky, but it will clear a flooding issue pretty quickly. I ran into this when I first got my CS-590 (same motor). Good luck!
Mine likes to flood about every time I have to run it with the half choke on to warm it up then it's fine
If you can't start an echo within 8 pulls max...you did something wrong lol.
1 make sure your on switch is up
2 pull out your choke
3 pull till it sounds like it revs once
4 push choke in and pull to turn on
5 press throttle to idle
6 lastly like i said if you can't get it started within these 5 steps guess what? Your on switch is off 😆
@@jdp8944 What if the switch is on and it won't start then genius? You must of missed the part where he said the switch was on and it doesn't sound like it wants to run. It's under warranty and if it's not something easily remedied (if he's mechanically inclined at all) then he should take it back to keep the warranty intact. I've had brand new pieces of equipment come into the shop with defective parts and I've even started a brand new 8' trowel to load on a customers truck for them to bring it back in less than two hours because of a bad connection inside the windings of the starter. I've had a saw come back because the spark plug wire wasn't fully seated in the boot and it lost connection even though it ran fine in the shop but the customer didn't know enough to check the basics. Any equipment I send out is started and fully tested in house before it goes anywhere but things still happen. Granted that most problems on new equipment are operator induced it isn't always the case and I'm sure you've had more than your fair share of dumbass moments. If every other manufacturer in the world can have problems with brand new equipment then I'm sure Echo can too.
I'm having a hard time choosing between the 501p and 620pw. If you had to choose one of those saw which would it be and why?
It depends on what you want to use it for. If you plan on using it as a farm and ranch saw and a 20" bar is plenty big enough then I think the 501P will be an excellent choice. It's also considerably lighter than the 620PW. Things to consider are that the 501P is a .325 pitch and doesn't have a wrap handle but if you aren't doing a lot of falling then not having a wrap handle doesn't really matter anyway. If you do plan on doing a lot of falling then the wrap handle will come in handy. I also like the faster cut of a 3/8 pitch chain on a more powerful saw but that comes at a price. The 620PW is probably pushing 20 pounds with a 24'' bar and filled full of oil and gas. I'm guessing the 501P is probably a good 5-6 pounds lighter especially if you are running an 18" bar on it. I've considered getting a 16" bar for the 620 just to save on weight when I'm doing a lot of cutting on trees that are 14" in diameter and under. I really love my saw but it does get heavy after a while. My opinion on the perfect solution to your dilemma would be to get a 620PW AND a 361P but that's an expensive proposition. I intend on buying a 361P in the future for small trees and limbing so I'm not having to wield such a large saw all the time. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Also, if you can get by without buying the saw for a while wait and buy it on a dealer days promotion and it'll save you 20%.
I would personally go with a a CS-501P-18 or CS-620P-20. The 501P is 50cc 3.5 hp and super light at 10 pounds. The 620P is 60cc 4.5hp and average weight at 13 pounds for a 60cc on a metal chassis. So if you are leaning towards power to weight ratio, get he 501P, if you are strong enough to accommodate the additional 3 pounds and need the extra power go 620. Both are XP models from echo meaning the engines, power and features are true pro grade.
The 501p is about like husq 545 but in videos 545 outcuts it. But they were supposedly new out of box. Echo takes few tanks to come alive. I have 490. Thinking of 501p??
I have the shindaiwa 600sx it really does run good. 13.7 reg handle 14.1 wrap handle PHO so keep that in mind.
620p/600sx same specs
Came w 24in shind bar.
What do you think now? This one or just repair my stihl mtronic 362 c
Depends on how much the repair cost will be. If you can get it repaired for less $300 and you think that'll have running well for a long time to come I'd say repair the Stihl. If not, get a 620.
Nice saw, lean it out on the H some, its running to rich and giving up power. It 4 strokes in the cut alot. Should only 4 stroke when you lift up and take the load off.
I finally got around to adjusting the carb. It made a big difference and it's running even better now than it had been. Thanks for the tip!
@@theinternets7516 Awesome to hear, its amazing how much a little turn on the H screw either way can do, to rich and it gives up power and to lean its dangerous for the saw and even though turns more RPM wide open out of the cut as soon as it hits wood it will fall flat because it doesn't have enough fuel.
Echo forever.
It's a great saw. I finally settled on a 3510 for a smaller saw. I was going back and forth between the 361P and the 501P but the 361P was expensive for the power and the 501P was heavier than I wanted for a small saw and I happened to see that the 3510 is lighter than the 361P and has the same HP and is $200 less so that's going to be my next saw. I'll be putting up some videos and reviews once it's broken in.
Problem is, for 520ish you can spend another 40 bucks and get a ms262 or spend another 150 and be afleast close to a 565xp and be really amazing.
Feels like the 590 is where the real value is , but that is a nice saw.
@@johnnyowens5276, This saw has so much more than the 590 for an extra $200 ($170 if you don't get a wrap handle). Magnesium clutch cover, rim sprocket, aluminum handle, extra .75 HP (4.5HP total), and higher quality motor components. Don't get me wrong, the 590 is a good saw and a great deal but this saw is a lot more than a 590 with a fancy handle. As for the the 565XP, I don't know where you're finding one in the $670 range. The cheapest I've seen them is around $770. It's also a 70cc, 5.0HP saw. It's a great saw but where I'm at I'd be looking at getting it out the door for close to $850 after tax so that's not even close to $518 I got the echo out the door for (granted that was with a 20% discount). The MS261 is a 50cc, 4.0 HP saw and it's only got a .325 pitch chain. It would cost me about $540 out the door. Once again, it's a good saw but it's also not really comparable to the 620 and not really worth buying considering the 620P can be had out the door for ~$485 or the 620PW out the door for ~$520 on a one day sale.. The big advantage the MS261 has is that it's 3 pounds lighter. I have no regrets about buying this saw and I totally stand by saying it's the best saw for the money. I've had it for two years now and still love it. If you would like to watch my two year review of it that I just posted a few days ago, here is a link to it. ua-cam.com/video/KwhaNj8aQ20/v-deo.html
I stand corrected he dropped price to 489. Message him for ship. Hes ready to sell
This saw has me interested but I already have a Makita DCS6421 which is pretty comparable. This saw is what 4.5hp and 60cc? The Makita is 64cc and 4.7hp so really not enough difference for me to really justify buying one unless I find a like new used one cheap like I got my Makita for $250.
Yeah. If you have the Makita I don't see much reason to get this one as well. The Makita/Dolmar was on my short list of saws when I bought this one but there is no Dolmar dealer support in my area so it was easier to go with the echo. It's been great so far. I have no regrets at this point.
@@theinternets7516 I don't know of any Echo or Dolmar dealers around here. Its mostly all Stihl. There is probably 4 Stihl to every 1 Husqvarna dealer. You can order any of them online though. One of the reasons I prefer Stihl though is that they have dealers everywhere and I kinda like they don't sell at big box stores. However the Makita I have you can get at Home Depot. Mine was actually originally a rental tool from Home Depot. I think they are $700 at Home Depot but they sell the rental tools ever couple years. I bought mine from a guy who bought it as a retire
d rental and I gave him $250 for it.
@@JesseLJohnson, I had considered doing that same thing but the Home Depot stores in my area didn't have any available. I also wanted to be able to take it to a dealer if a service issue came up, especially since echo has a five year warranty.
@@theinternets7516 Only 2 times I ever took anything in for warranty they wouldn't honor them and one was an Echo it was less then a year old. The other was a Redmax (Husqvarna) and it was brand new. The screw for the oiler was broke off in the box. I ended up just buying the part both times. I have heard a lot of people having trouble getting Echo to honor their warranty. Not as bad as Efco though who gives 7 years but what good is the warranty if they refuse to honor it.
In my opinion I'd prefer starting it with the foot on the throttle
I think either is an acceptable way to do it. It's easier on my back to be standing up straight though.
foot is the easy way. But starting with the Handle tucked IN your knees at standing position is ABSOLUTELY OSHA certified way to start it.
@@94SexyStang ... *unless of course, one is left-handed*
Where did you buy it from?
A Farmers Co-op about an hour away is an Echo dealer and were doing a 1-day sale.
Pbowman on eBay d oh does deals
ECHO....GREAT CHAINSAW...
I prefer Stihl.. But Echo make good saws for the money. Especialy the TimberWolf and up. Plus if you buy then from Home Depot they will literally let you return it in any condition.
I've been very happy with mine. It's been two and half years now and it's still running great. I've been running a 32" bar with a full skip chain lately and as long as the chain is sharp it still rips through everything. For the money, I don't think it can be beat. My neighbor has a 362 but aside from weighing 13% less I haven't found the 362 to be a better saw and certainly not worth the extra $300 since. For someone who uses their saw to make a living I can see where the reduced weight would be worth the premium price. The 362 is a great saw I just don't think it's $300 better if you're not using it on a daily basis. If I were going to spend that kind of money I'd be ordering a CS7310. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put a 20in tsumura chrome bar. Yes it's nice.
I really want to get a Tsumura bar. They look awesome.
Still like it?
It's great. Zero problems. Still rips through everything.
Its pro grade. Dont worry about that. I fall with mine.
That's good to hear. It's been great so far. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 i have a muffler modded one on my page. It wakes em up nice.
Awesome. I'll check that out. I hate to ruin the warranty so I'm going to leave mine stock until the warranty runs out and then I plan to do a muffler mod as well.
It's NOT pro grade.....it's a good saw, but sorry you have NO clue what you're talking about......
@@theinternets7516 I don't waste my time porting saw. If I need more power I buy a bigger saw, which rewards you with more power and reliability than a ported smaller unit...
What type of chain is it?
It is an Oregon 72LPX81CQ. That's what it comes with from echo. This chain is hard to find though so I have since bought several Oregon 72LGX81G chains. Both are full comp and neither is low kickback. They perform roughly the same.
Its basically a CS-590 with a full wrap bar. CS-590 is $400. Is that full wrap bar worth $100? Maybe. It looks very cool, though.
The only real difference is the 620pw has the full wrap handle and a magnesium sprocket cover instead of plastic. Same hp, same cc, same fuel capacity. Cs-590 handles a 27" bar and chain all day long. #echo did a great job marketing the same saw as 3 different models, cs-590, cs-620, and cs-620pw.
It's also got a rim sprocket instead of spur and factory ported exhaust that adds another 0.6 hp putting it up to 4.5hp. The extra $100 buys you a lot but the 590 is definitely a solid saw.
Land Home & Lawn Services the coil, carb, cylinder, crankcase, sprocket, sprocket cover, and aluminum handles are all different between the cs590 and cs620. The 600 has been discontinued but it was just a loaded cs590 anyway
Diff piston, cylinder, coil and exhaust as well.
@@whiskeytangofoxtrot9403 Also has a 2 ring piston instead of the 1 ring on the 590.
Мужик хорошо пилит, не давит на неё только держит, она сама пилит.
Condemn Putin
Echo made in?
Japan
@@theinternets7516 thank you
@@prashanthkunjilana2091, You're welcome.
@@theinternets7516 just about anything made in Japan is good,if I can find myself an echo dealer here in Missouri I'll by one,great video.
@@copenhagensnuff5991, Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. I'd like to do a full on review now that I've been using for a little more than a year. It's a great saw. Zero problems and as long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything.
Strong saw,top could be opened up a hair.
I love it. I had another viewer comment the same thing about that and I finally did it a couple months ago. It runs even better now. I definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a strong and reliable 60cc saw.
@@theinternets7516 yeah dewd, you want the top too slobber a bit under load when she's breaking in but after a few tanks let her rip lol!!
Definitely was a cold run! These fire first pull with no choke when warmed up even hot starts!! First time there with a bigger saw budd? You definitely don't do a first tank at idle!!
Everything I read at the time had suggested that I should let it idle through a tank, but yes, it was my first time with a bigger saw. It doesn't seem to have done it any harm. I've run it a lot over the last two years and it's still doing awesome. It was a cold start. It's incredible easy to start when it's warm.
NEVER EVER RUN/USE YOUR SAW UNTILL ITS WARM TAKES ABOUT 2 MINUTES IF YOU DONT DO THIS THE EXHAUST SIDE OF THE PISTON WILL GET DAMAGED
THIS RUN TIME IN THIS VID IS NOT LONG EHOUGH TRUST ME IT IS NOT !!!!!!
I let it warm up but I edited that part out. You can notice a little blip in the footage before I start cutting and that's after I let it warm up. I did learn this from Steve's Small Engine Saloon about 6 months ago though and was guilty before that of not always giving it enough time to warm up. I always do now though and it's still running great. Thanks for taking the time to share that information though. It's definitely important for people to know that.
4-stroking half the time. Just a bit fat on the high jet?.
You're not the first to mention this. I did a carb tune after this was pointed out to me and it runs even better now. It's been almost 4 years since I got this saw and it's been incredible. I've even run it with a 30" bar on one occasion. There is a video of that if you'd like to see it. It's definitely maxed out but it still does it and shows what a strong and versatile saw this is.
At 57, I have found you get what you pay for.
I feel like for most small engine machines it's almost always worth paying extra for the pro model. I love this saw.
Yes, I run stihl and use the pro saws for my heavy work. I have some smaller lighter saws for doing timber stand improvements.
пила отличная + япония
Over $1000 here we always get ripped off
Wow! Where are you?
@@theinternets7516 Edmonton Alberta
I just paid almost $800 for mine with an additional bar and chain. Stopped at my normal dealer and the man didn't have a single saw to sell - poor man. I had to stop at 3 other shops looking for a CS 590 and when I heard the price I just about pooped my pants but this was all that had that suited my needed and I needed the saw right away.
Idling a saw is not how you break it in
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That saw looks red not orange.
It's the lighting. It was near sunset when I filmed this.
Ur echo is more red
That's just the lighting. It was later in the evening when I filmed this. It's orange in normal lighting.
@@theinternets7516 Tbh I kind of wish it was red, it looks super dope in the video when it looks red
Echo makes Good reliable saws, but the people saying "pro grade" bla bla bla......have absolutely NO CLUE what they're talking about, end of story.....you might want to "research" what goes into a REAL Professional Grade saw first.....
I'll put it this way, whether you feel like its truly "pro grade" or not, its definitely a step up from the stihl and husky farm and ranch saws and since I'm not making my living with this saw it is more than enough saw for me. I will say that I stand by it being the best saw for the money whether or not its the best saw period may be a different story but it was also $300 less than a ms362. If you've never used one I would highly recommend giving one a try. I've been very happy with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You got that right i own a stihl farmbossand several others a 261c an 038mag but my echo 620p totally spanks the stihl farm ranch series starts better too first echo i ever ran i still have its at least 8 years old a cs400 with muff mod ancarb limiters removed for tune that little cs400 is one of my favorite saws to this day i use it all the time i run stihl chains on all my saws regardless of saw brand
Mike Fu you keep saying it’s not a pro saw. I’ve been told it is by a local saw dealer that it is a pro saw. Since you seem to know more than anyone else please enlighten us on why it isn’t a pro saw
The 620 is a pro saw. It has a full wrap handle, different bar and most importantly, different cylinder components. Look it up. ECHO makes great saws and I own other brands too.
Mike Fu will not have a answer for that question
Echos rip I have a couple. They're useful for piddling around at hone,but they're certainly not professional quality. They're more or less disposable
What makes them disposable if they rip so well? If it's not a good saw why do you have two? I intend on buying a 361P at some point because so far the performance and reliability has been fantastic on my 620PW. I run 90 octane ethanol free gas and don't let gas just sit around in the tank. It starts easily every time and as long as the chain is sharp eats through everything without any trouble. As I've mentioned in response to others, I am only using mine as a farm and ranch/firewood saw so that may make a difference but so far I've got no major complaints. I would definitely buy it again. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Clearly he owns the non pro saws....the 620 p is a pro saw wheather people like it or not!!it says it right in the Manuel.."pro saw"I am a pro and I use mine everyday too so there ya go!
@@stevenblake8642 that's what's up. I'd buy a used stihl any day, but to each his own. Echo saws aren't easy enough to repair/rebuild for me. Stihl owns hundreds of patents and parts are easy to come by
Stihl saws are over rated. Bring it on my echo cs590 will embarrass your stihl so put that in your pipe and smoke it
@@jesuschil3491 The Echo CS 590 600 and 620 are the easiest to work on saws bar none
Cute toy now next year buy a Stihl 462 c or 500i I did and have no regrets first I got 251 cm the I got a 261 cm and 170 fir limbs and teaching my daughter and wife then my dad and c wife got my the 500i fir Xmas I am a logger and a firewood producer though you may not need to spend 1700 on a saw or be able to all I’m saying is they are better then the echo you get what you pay for
Comparing this saw with 70-80 cc saws is a ridiculous endeavor. As for 60 cc saws I stand by my assessment that it is the best saw for the money. I've used it for nearly 5 years with up to a 30" bar and it's done everything I've ever needed it to and spent zero time in the shop for repairs. If you don't like Echo that's okay. Enjoy your Stihl and try to be less of dick.
@@theinternets7516 Some of these Stihl guys are worse than the red army.