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I’m a mechanical turbo diesel kinda guy. But Your animations and presentation are fire Brother man. Keep it up. Do a video on variable turbos!!! They are incredible!!!
The "just the tip" guy just wanting some pops and bangs and mostly getting an aftermarket exhaust and also being portayed as driving a Golf Gti is priceless
This man does absolutely one of the best jobs of explaining these topics. If I would've seen this video back in 2008 and knowing my intentions for my 86 Grand National I had just bought, I would've definitely forked over the cash for a stand alone ECU. Probably the only benefit now, is the technology has gotten even better, in microprocessor performance, and there is a plug and play stand alone ECU for the Grand National. This stand alone will allow you to add some nice features, like COP and get rid of the coil pack, and say better control of the wastegate solenoid should you elect to keep an internal wastegate and want more precise control of it. I am at a point where I have rebuilt my little 231 v6 and it's a fragile little fellow and the power has to be extracted safely. Any presence of knock at the boost level I am planning on running, will put the crankshaft in the oil pan. I also have another Buick Regal, but it's from 2000 and it appears the best way to go about getting power from this guy is perhaps reflashing. With the ABS and other modules and this car being a daily driver, I don't want to necessarily lose the ABS feature, especially when traction control can be disabled. The VE tuning, well that does sound a lot better than providing an injector PW for a given RPM and load point. Also nice that I am getting some exposure to working on a dyno at work. Normally I wouldn't be involved with such work, but as an embedded C programmer, I am between projects at work and there is a shortage of engineers for running/managing the dynos. Although, the technicians running the dynos seem to know far more than the majority of the engineers, for some reason my company wants someone with the title engineer in their job description in front of the customer. As always I tend to post too much and have much more to say above beyond the topic at hand that a person told me I needed to take up another hobby. However, I was posting about boxing at the time. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK D4A. Got to go back and watch your video about the Mazda with EGR Cooler that is allowing Mazda to run much leaner AFR when running forced induction and improving fuel mileage.
I think stand-alones are also great for improving reliability of old platforms with limited parts availability such as the Porsche 944, regardless if you want more power or not.
Dude you are amazing ! Tons of useful information in an interesting and fun way. " Vehicle modification is the biggest financial mistake you can make " This sentence is sooooo freaken true on so many levels ! 😅😅 Keep on doing what you do 🤘
In the early 90’s, I had a Buick grand National with a reprogrammed eprom “chips” that you simply plugged into the ecu When I ran 23 lb boost and 104 octane Sunoco unleaded fuel…I plugged in the 105 octane chip. Very very fast
Salute, that grand national was a serious car back then. Nevee knew about that car till I got smoked by one when I had my 99 civic si on 15lb of boost.
@@Altezza447 Haha no replacement for displacement and AWD I guess eh? I'm currently building an 04' Civic with a D17a1 in it. Gonna build the shit out of the motor and see how she rips. Might even fuck around and AWD swap it someday haha. Cheers bud 🤟
@@lj3912 lol. i had full race turbo kit i had the block built piston and rods. I could hold more boost but capped it at 15lb of boost. I valued my life more than the speed
Well I bought my GN in 2008, it is an 86. It was and still is a nice example, but the first thing I did when I bought it was upgrade the stock turbo and add alky injection. Since I didn't do the initial upgrade to my GN, I didn't know about needing the PROM or EPROM burned. Recently I rebuilt my engine and it cost a more than I thought it would, I did order a new chip to match the turbo, bigger IC, injectors, etc., but I have yet to really jump on it. The tune appears to be ok, but with running 25 psi of boost, along with 93 octane and alky I am afraid to go WOT. I figure if I spent as much as I did rebuilding the engine and transmission, I should probably go to an aftermarket ECU. Although, when I first bought the car and upgrading it to a TE44 turbo it seemed to be tuned pretty good as I was able to run an 11.88 at 115 with a 1.79 sixty foot time. The person who did my initial modifications, also replaced the fuel pump. There just so happened to be an issue with the fuel pump and on my 5th and final run of the night, the fuel pump died mid run and the cylinder leaned out so badly that all that was being injected was the alky and it burned so hot that the head gasket melted at a water jacket. When I took it to the person who originally modified it, he even said that the jacket where it blew he'd never seen before. Well that's because I lost the fuel pump mid run and alky can burn really hot. Hot enough to burn through the stock head gasket. Initially though, the guy working on my car said I let the alky run too low but then he called me and said the fuel pump had died. It wasn't until years later that I figured out that it was dead fuel pump that caused the head gasket to blow and I also later found out that at the same time my fuel pump was replaced, there was an issue with the 255LPH Walboro pumps. Luckily I told the guy not to replace it with the same type of pump, in case there was a generic flaw, but it didn't really matter because my engine never really ran right after that. Even with the head gasket replaced and new ported heads put on the car. There was never any point of putting ported heads on it at that point, because it still had the stock cam and really none of that air flow available with the ported heads would be utilized because of it using a stock cam. Also, the ported heads were using the stock rockers with the stock rocker shaft. Boy was that a disaster waiting to happen. It didn't take but a couple of thousand of miles for that damn stock rocker shaft to break and I lost all oil pressure immediately and it wiped out the cam lopes. Then I let the guy replace the stock cam with another flat tappet cam and the car ran well for a time and then the knock sensor started triggering even during normal driving. So I threw in the towel and had the engine rebuilt. Instead of using the original block, I went ahead and bought another one and had it machined and rebuilt. I pulled out the original engine and transmission. I sent the transmission off for a billet rebuild and I took the engine to my engine builder. He took it into the shop, took it apart and cleaned it. Well, the block, crank and some of the rods were no longer reusable. The bulkhead at main cap 3 was cracked and the cap had been walking, that in turn chewed up the crank and still don't know how the rods got bent. Surprisingly the cam shaft was still usable as my engine builder bought it off of me and used it to rebuild his 87 T engine to stock. Hopefully this spring and summer I'll finally have my GN tuned with an aftermarket ECU and I can see how fast she is with the setup I currently have.
HUGE FAN bro! From Philippines with love. You have made me more knowledgeable with cars than I ever could have. Other channels don't expound enough on the nuances of the machines, but you are one hecl of a tutor. Keep it up
For the SW20 and ZZW30 world, Marc at Frankenstein motorworks does lots of reflashes for 2ar and 2gr swapped cars. Possible to get 300 hp out of the 2gr on one of his reflashes, N/A. Pretty cool what you can do with just a reflash.
I do really like and actually laughed at the jokes in this video 😂🤣! Keep up the good work and thank you for all the information and knowledge you give to us. 🙏
My Buick 96 Roadmaster sedan has a PCM-Powertrain Control Module that controls the engine and transmission. I had it reflashed to delete all emissions and anti-theft, change shift pressures and optimize the timing and fuel curves for more power. For around $150 it's a pretty good investment
Went with TunerPro RT (free), reprogrammed my PCM (and snagged a spare from Pick-a-part), bought a $200 laptop from the local university, and hired a remote tuner that works on older vehicles (even tipped him for his awesome service and education). Great intro experience for a newbie. 93 half ton GMC pickup that has a little more pep than factory. TunerPro is awesome for helping me keep this thing running.
I am pretty sure that I will be going with a standalone unit because I want to do coil near plug on my 68 Barracuda, 360LA small block. Crank trigger, distributorless ignition and coil packs mounted over the valve covers. And a pair of Edelbrock AVS2 carburetors on top of a tunnel ram.
Standalone ECUs also are able to bring modern engine management features to good old mechanics. For example, upgrading an engine from benzin batch injection + rotary ignotion to full sequential e85 injection and ignition with flexfuel sensor and knock sensors, enhancing car performances, fuel economy, car emissions and giving direct access to sensors states to quickly identify the issue when something starts going wrong. Obviously standalones can also manage big mods like turbo setup on originally N/A engine, etc. The only con to standalones is specific communications to other car modules like those often found on modern vehicles, that can be tricky to impossible to make working.
Huge Bulgarian fan, but living in Spain. Your videos helped me be more savvy and made me enjoy more my Megane RS 225. Thank you, Sir. Hats down to you. Keep like this 💪💪
I was really into tuning when I was in my twenties. I went through 3 Miatas, all had some ammount of suspension & brake upgrades (mostly mild), two got turbos, and one had a Megasquirt standalone ECU. Boy that was fun playing with those things and I learned so much in my quest to do as much as possible on a budget. Im 40 now, but I hope to have the opportunity to own another miata one day ..
God how i love the fact that i can go onto your channel a month after the last visit and have a whole holiday worth of intresting content. Have a good day sir!
You have got to be one of my favorite UA-camrs I’ve been listening to you talk about different parts of cars it for about a year now i usually play video games and listen to your videos and I find it very very informative keep up the good work man
My CL9 accord has a stock ecu with a reflash, but if you run different camshafts and vtc timing gear you need to modify more parameters, which means you need the Acura TSX ecu or a hondata one. Also the yaris GR has an aftermarket ecu and wire harness with all the cables that fit plug and play, but you can't modify parameters regarding the safety systems, so when you swap the ECU you lose all the lane assist, adaptive cruise, pedestrian safety braking, parking sensors and so on...
The key thing for myself, and probably a lot of others, is emission testing. If your area just uses a sniffer, you can run whatever as long as you can hit the numbers. But my area hooks up to the port and reads codes. So I either use the OEM ECU to get the right OBD codes or I find a shop that will fake the test. No standalone unit handles OBD as far as I'm aware.
@@Meatball546 I am. It does include a sniffer. But it also reads a bunch of info off OBD to check readiness. If I have a bad O2 sensor I will fail regardless how clean the exhaust is.
I've used a couple standalones. Granted I went low cost, 1973 triumph spitfire with a toyota 4age running ITBs, and full sequential with coil on plug using a megasquirt 2 v3. That one was a DIY kit that required assembling the ecu. My 78 yamaha is running a microsquirt. With tunerstudio it's very easy to tune and adjust things. Flashing a factory ecu works for some changes, but it's much more limited most of the time.
Sure wish it was more feasible to either replace or reflash the ECU for the Toyota 3F-E engine (1988 - 1992 Land Cruisers). To this day I'm convinced there's a lot of efficiency to be recovered with a better turned ECU. Especially if you can tune it to take advantage of desmogging, any performance work (exhaust, larger throttle body, larger valves after a cylinder head job, etc.), and just finding the ideal ignition curve for the engine's configuration and application (performance versus economy).
Even though I live in Germany and the question "can I do XYZ to my car" is met with "HAHAHAHAHAAAA!!! NEIN!", your videos are very interesting and informative.
I'm new to this car things. I just stumbled upon this video. Basically the tuning is as PC Overclocking. Better cooling, better OC settings, benchmark tests (driving) etc. As highly experienced overclocker, i think stage 1 tune is the best for most people to not fk up everything. If you want more hrsprs, get a bigger engine, most probably, another better car.
Good coverage! Btw, I do reverse engineering for Honda ECUs and I can do speed density conversion + turbo with new map sensor without requiring any extra tools but myself. I can create and extend tables to accept boost to my liking. I can rescale the MAP sensor for higher boost. And there are many things that can be done! The Honda reflash game has just changed, at least for me and for people around me. Turbo on automatic ecus can be done fine! I'm partnering up with people around the world to show the world that the time has come for Honda. We shall show the world that the reflashable stock Honda ECUs are powerful! And it saves a lot of money for car lovers who want to have fun with their street cars! Cheers!
What I would like to see is a reasonably priced stand alone ECU that controls the transmission and gauges, eliminates unnecessary bs like going into limp mode because of a loose gas cap, or an unnecessary sensor losing its ground, and comes with a manual with installation instructions and programming parameters for popular engines and vehicles.
Reflashing vs standalone, the old computer has old capacitors. They have a finite life. After 10 years in a hot engine bay it's amazing they lasted that long.
Thank you once again 🙂 Your talks provide the best technical explanations I have found anywhere to date. (I have found a Maf sensor will adjust to exhaust and intake mods without the need for a re-flash as long as the timing table isn't the limiting factor).
Absolutely Top video I’m in my late 40s and I’m loving this new way of tuning Very very interesting. Cars are very clever today and this highlights the importants of engine management ❤
My car doesn't even have a turbski.... But I do need a standalone ECU. Turns out you can fit ITBs to a BMW i6 and just throw away the MAF, ICV and TPS and it will still run. But like a bag of bolts that will bog out.
Edit: I thought I posted this comment on the previous video (the Ford Hidden Boost Tank) 😂. Damn! so good memories watching those WRC footage... Besides all that you say the most important piece for the performance of a the brand is the pilot
In the mid 80's I drag raced a mid 60's big block Chevrolet. Wondering if any kind of ECU would have made a significant improvement with this 12.5:1 compression ratio, headers, Holley 850 DP carb, solid lifter cam, HEI distributor ,other stuff and posi rear axel with maybe 3:73 rear ratio with turbo 400 trans with shift kit. Got to now wonder if there was any more power to be put to the drag slicks...
Друже, правиш одличне клипове из којих се може пуно тога научити. Видим да си се базирао искључиво на америчку публику, разлог је очигледан, много више прегледа, а самим тим и новаца. АЛИ било би јако добро када би макар направио титл на матерњем језику да би и ми који не разумемо тако добро енглески разумели о чему тачно говориш, јер има јако пуно стручних речи и израза које се не појављују у свакодневном енглеском говору, а ни англосаксонске мерне јединице нам нису баш блиске. Велики поздрав!
There is one more option. My 1954 FJ Holden has a 5.0 liter V8 with engine and ECU from a 1994 Holden Commodore. ECU from 2004 5.7 liter (LS) Holden Commodore, spliced into 5.0 the liter loom.
***Input please*** Great video and just like many videos on this channel it gets thinking about my future as an automotive tech. I'm in my 30s so I have about 30 years of work ahead of me. I've been working as a dealership master tech for the better part of my life. As many brands are moving to EV, dealership service departments are going to slow down with the "gravy work" fluid flushes, tune ups, belts, filters and even brake jobs will be few and far between with regenerative braking. This gets me to thinking that a niche service will benefit. I'm interested in getting more in to performance and tuning, especially if working on ICE vehicles becomes more of a specialty like current guys that work on carburetors and setting points. I know all the fundamentals but not the fine details that will make me a master (I know experience will play a huge role in mastering performance and tuning.) So with this being said, are course like HP Academy or other online programs worth the money?
They had hard time cracking it, took almost a year before they managed to do that. Example golf 8 first tune was 2 days after the first sales in Germany 😂
I love your videos bro, and I think this is your best yet. I have an Evo X running around 400AWKW on the stock (reflashed) ECU. Having watched this, I'm now considering investing in a stand-alone, especially as I have almost reached the end of the stock trans' life and need that rebuilt to go with my rebuilt engine. Keep up the good work my friend, regards from Australia.
😂🤣😂 Great job on this video I feel like a relic from auto history. Back in the late 70s very early 80s when I was building cars and bikes as an apprentice mechanic we were still running carburettors, coils, ignition points in some cases and using tools like timing lights, dwell meters and even carburettor synchronising tools. Never really got into modern tuning but yeah as well as doing a lot of carbie and jetting work I was one of those fellas tuning cars and bikes largely by ear. Thanks to industrial deafness these days tuning by ear is little more than a beautiful memory.
Stand alone is the best option.. If i would've seen this video back in 2017 i would have saved alot of cash .. I used a pigyback (unichip Q+) on my old Japanese car and tuned it alittle for more power .. 3 months later the car died!! Wouldn't starting at.. more like a power storage.. once in the wrok shop i came to light that the stock ECU was done with .. had to get a new one and it was not an easy task.. Bottom line i discovered that the factory ecu attend to fight this pigybacks as they don't get along and in the end the ecu will burn it self out .. So stand alone was the best option for my case.. back then.. if i only knew.. Thank you for your awesom content Am a subscribe since day one, as i drive 4 answers 💪🤣 Keep it up champ 👑
"Vehicle modification is the biggest financial mistake you can make" as someone who works on modified cars and owns/runs/ and modifies cars... if there is one KEY takeaway from this this video, besides all the other fantastic information, its this!
@@GuidelinesViolator You mean like how when someone's hormone balance matches their preferred gender, their reaction times become faster and they become more cognitively capable? That kind of biology education?
@@RubyRoks You cannot have a "preferred" gender,it's given to you by birth and taken from you by death,try to born a child being born a man and prove me wrong
@@RubyRoks You cannot have a "preferred" gеndеr,it's given to you by birth and taken from you by dеаth,try to born a chіІd being bоrn a mаn and prove me wrong
So, if the map is sitting there, looking at input values, and the smart ECU has to output stuff, one solution to modifying the map values, for a certain engine operating point, is to simulate an operating point that produces the desired map values, by inserting a 'black box' that reads the 'real' engine/drivetrain inputs, and outputs values, in real time, that let the ECU output the desired control signals...
Appreciate the video and thanks for the plug ins for the tuners. I need to seek out some help and those will be a good start. I got an old chevy s10 pick with a 4.3L v6. It was equipped with an old poppet "spider injector" style fuel delivery system which I updated with a the newer individual injector system design that makes it more closer to a true multi-port but it is still designed like the primitive orginal unit. For awhile the fuel injector worked fine until recently it's starting to act up causing misfires and I feel that it's also an unreliable unit. Therefore I end up buying a marine intake unit which is a true multi-port system that is made out of a heavy cast iron intake, equipped with it's own fuel rail, pressure regulator, and fuel injectors which are externally mounted. Now the issue I have been having is trying to find some who can reprogram the orginal ecm so it can run the new intake correctly. I don't want to install this intake until i know for sure that i can find someone or a company that can do this. So far after contacting a couple of these tuners, they don't want to touch it. Technically this intake and fuel delivery unit is ment for marine applications so I am not aware of the ecm parameters that those have verses the auto ones.
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Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u
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I’m a mechanical turbo diesel kinda guy.
But
Your animations and presentation are fire
Brother man.
Keep it up.
Do a video on variable turbos!!!
They are incredible!!!
i prefer no ecu
You're hilarious 😂
Tons of great info - and even a bonus shout out to the _greatest president in modern times,_ Donald J. Trump!!
The "just the tip" guy just wanting some pops and bangs and mostly getting an aftermarket exhaust and also being portayed as driving a Golf Gti is priceless
I'm slowly turning into the "just the tip" guy, and I drive a Hyundai Sonata 😂. At least it has a turbo!
Don't forget the IG posts
This man does absolutely one of the best jobs of explaining these topics. If I would've seen this video back in 2008 and knowing my intentions for my 86 Grand National I had just bought, I would've definitely forked over the cash for a stand alone ECU. Probably the only benefit now, is the technology has gotten even better, in microprocessor performance, and there is a plug and play stand alone ECU for the Grand National. This stand alone will allow you to add some nice features, like COP and get rid of the coil pack, and say better control of the wastegate solenoid should you elect to keep an internal wastegate and want more precise control of it. I am at a point where I have rebuilt my little 231 v6 and it's a fragile little fellow and the power has to be extracted safely. Any presence of knock at the boost level I am planning on running, will put the crankshaft in the oil pan. I also have another Buick Regal, but it's from 2000 and it appears the best way to go about getting power from this guy is perhaps reflashing. With the ABS and other modules and this car being a daily driver, I don't want to necessarily lose the ABS feature, especially when traction control can be disabled. The VE tuning, well that does sound a lot better than providing an injector PW for a given RPM and load point. Also nice that I am getting some exposure to working on a dyno at work. Normally I wouldn't be involved with such work, but as an embedded C programmer, I am between projects at work and there is a shortage of engineers for running/managing the dynos. Although, the technicians running the dynos seem to know far more than the majority of the engineers, for some reason my company wants someone with the title engineer in their job description in front of the customer. As always I tend to post too much and have much more to say above beyond the topic at hand that a person told me I needed to take up another hobby. However, I was posting about boxing at the time. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK D4A. Got to go back and watch your video about the Mazda with EGR Cooler that is allowing Mazda to run much leaner AFR when running forced induction and improving fuel mileage.
I know right! I hope he has similar video’s about superchargers.
I think stand-alones are also great for improving reliability of old platforms with limited parts availability such as the Porsche 944, regardless if you want more power or not.
The Toyota 1UZs are also longer lasting than their ECUs
Dude you are amazing !
Tons of useful information in an interesting and fun way.
" Vehicle modification is the biggest financial mistake you can make " This sentence is sooooo freaken true on so many levels ! 😅😅
Keep on doing what you do 🤘
In the early 90’s, I had a Buick grand National with a reprogrammed eprom “chips” that you simply plugged into the ecu
When I ran 23 lb boost and 104 octane Sunoco unleaded fuel…I plugged in the 105 octane chip.
Very very fast
Sounds rowdy 👌
Salute, that grand national was a serious car back then. Nevee knew about that car till I got smoked by one when I had my 99 civic si on 15lb of boost.
@@Altezza447 Haha no replacement for displacement and AWD I guess eh? I'm currently building an 04' Civic with a D17a1 in it. Gonna build the shit out of the motor and see how she rips. Might even fuck around and AWD swap it someday haha. Cheers bud 🤟
@@lj3912 lol. i had full race turbo kit i had the block built piston and rods. I could hold more boost but capped it at 15lb of boost. I valued my life more than the speed
Well I bought my GN in 2008, it is an 86. It was and still is a nice example, but the first thing I did when I bought it was upgrade the stock turbo and add alky injection. Since I didn't do the initial upgrade to my GN, I didn't know about needing the PROM or EPROM burned. Recently I rebuilt my engine and it cost a more than I thought it would, I did order a new chip to match the turbo, bigger IC, injectors, etc., but I have yet to really jump on it. The tune appears to be ok, but with running 25 psi of boost, along with 93 octane and alky I am afraid to go WOT. I figure if I spent as much as I did rebuilding the engine and transmission, I should probably go to an aftermarket ECU. Although, when I first bought the car and upgrading it to a TE44 turbo it seemed to be tuned pretty good as I was able to run an 11.88 at 115 with a 1.79 sixty foot time. The person who did my initial modifications, also replaced the fuel pump. There just so happened to be an issue with the fuel pump and on my 5th and final run of the night, the fuel pump died mid run and the cylinder leaned out so badly that all that was being injected was the alky and it burned so hot that the head gasket melted at a water jacket. When I took it to the person who originally modified it, he even said that the jacket where it blew he'd never seen before. Well that's because I lost the fuel pump mid run and alky can burn really hot. Hot enough to burn through the stock head gasket. Initially though, the guy working on my car said I let the alky run too low but then he called me and said the fuel pump had died. It wasn't until years later that I figured out that it was dead fuel pump that caused the head gasket to blow and I also later found out that at the same time my fuel pump was replaced, there was an issue with the 255LPH Walboro pumps. Luckily I told the guy not to replace it with the same type of pump, in case there was a generic flaw, but it didn't really matter because my engine never really ran right after that. Even with the head gasket replaced and new ported heads put on the car. There was never any point of putting ported heads on it at that point, because it still had the stock cam and really none of that air flow available with the ported heads would be utilized because of it using a stock cam. Also, the ported heads were using the stock rockers with the stock rocker shaft. Boy was that a disaster waiting to happen. It didn't take but a couple of thousand of miles for that damn stock rocker shaft to break and I lost all oil pressure immediately and it wiped out the cam lopes. Then I let the guy replace the stock cam with another flat tappet cam and the car ran well for a time and then the knock sensor started triggering even during normal driving. So I threw in the towel and had the engine rebuilt. Instead of using the original block, I went ahead and bought another one and had it machined and rebuilt. I pulled out the original engine and transmission. I sent the transmission off for a billet rebuild and I took the engine to my engine builder. He took it into the shop, took it apart and cleaned it. Well, the block, crank and some of the rods were no longer reusable. The bulkhead at main cap 3 was cracked and the cap had been walking, that in turn chewed up the crank and still don't know how the rods got bent. Surprisingly the cam shaft was still usable as my engine builder bought it off of me and used it to rebuild his 87 T engine to stock. Hopefully this spring and summer I'll finally have my GN tuned with an aftermarket ECU and I can see how fast she is with the setup I currently have.
This man always speaks to my heart, he is like some sort of oracle that solves the mysteries of my life.
HUGE FAN bro! From Philippines with love. You have made me more knowledgeable with cars than I ever could have. Other channels don't expound enough on the nuances of the machines, but you are one hecl of a tutor. Keep it up
where in ph are you from?
Ang ingay mo kuya!..
@@daveanthonysalalima1128 KUYA!
Im moving to Cebu! I have a swapped integra haha
This channel just keeps on crushing. Love the content, always excited for a new video
For the SW20 and ZZW30 world, Marc at Frankenstein motorworks does lots of reflashes for 2ar and 2gr swapped cars. Possible to get 300 hp out of the 2gr on one of his reflashes, N/A. Pretty cool what you can do with just a reflash.
What about 3SGE?
@@sneez9461 3sge is as old as the 4age. Stock ECUs for that car are too old to be reflashed. Only option in those cases is to use a standalone.
@@inaNis_ Oh okay, i was thinking about one, do i need completely new harness, or could i use old?
@@sneez9461 I think the D4A channel has some videos on that, look for videos on the harness or the ECU that he uses.
@@sneez9461 all you need is a plug and play harness adapter
I don't even have a car, but now want a standalone ECU
I do really like and actually laughed at the jokes in this video 😂🤣!
Keep up the good work and thank you for all the information and knowledge you give to us. 🙏
My Buick 96 Roadmaster sedan has a PCM-Powertrain Control Module that controls the engine and transmission. I had it reflashed to delete all emissions and anti-theft, change shift pressures and optimize the timing and fuel curves for more power. For around $150 it's a pretty good investment
Who did it?
THANK YOU for breaking topics down to teach when and why we should take things to which level.
Fantastic episode. Been thinking about buying a stand alone for my 2zz swapped Corolla.
I'm an average Aussie who loves a beer with a 2017 Camry. I love your channel. Thanks.
just love how you have detailed whatever topic you're on
Went with TunerPro RT (free), reprogrammed my PCM (and snagged a spare from Pick-a-part), bought a $200 laptop from the local university, and hired a remote tuner that works on older vehicles (even tipped him for his awesome service and education).
Great intro experience for a newbie. 93 half ton GMC pickup that has a little more pep than factory.
TunerPro is awesome for helping me keep this thing running.
I am pretty sure that I will be going with a standalone unit because I want to do coil near plug on my 68 Barracuda, 360LA small block. Crank trigger, distributorless ignition and coil packs mounted over the valve covers. And a pair of Edelbrock AVS2 carburetors on top of a tunnel ram.
Standalone ECUs also are able to bring modern engine management features to good old mechanics. For example, upgrading an engine from benzin batch injection + rotary ignotion to full sequential e85 injection and ignition with flexfuel sensor and knock sensors, enhancing car performances, fuel economy, car emissions and giving direct access to sensors states to quickly identify the issue when something starts going wrong.
Obviously standalones can also manage big mods like turbo setup on originally N/A engine, etc.
The only con to standalones is specific communications to other car modules like those often found on modern vehicles, that can be tricky to impossible to make working.
Keep Up The Good Work 🤝🏾🇯🇲
Huge Bulgarian fan, but living in Spain. Your videos helped me be more savvy and made me enjoy more my Megane RS 225. Thank you, Sir. Hats down to you. Keep like this 💪💪
Very useful information colleague
The stand alone aftermarket ecu would be perfect practice on kei vans and kei truck awesome information right here, thanks bud.
I love your vids. They should be made mandatory to watch for all of the gearheads in the world.
Thanks for making it easy for a bone stock home mechanic to understand the more technical aspects of ECUs and aftermarket ECU options..
The humour and animations are as awesome as the info.
Bravo Sir! 👏
This is my online class now. Every time you upload, thats the time for my class
I was really into tuning when I was in my twenties. I went through 3 Miatas, all had some ammount of suspension & brake upgrades (mostly mild), two got turbos, and one had a Megasquirt standalone ECU. Boy that was fun playing with those things and I learned so much in my quest to do as much as possible on a budget. Im 40 now, but I hope to have the opportunity to own another miata one day ..
This guy takes his job seriously! And I appreciate it
God how i love the fact that i can go onto your channel a month after the last visit and have a whole holiday worth of intresting content. Have a good day sir!
Awesome video! It's great to recognize (and laugh at) the practical futility of the hobby.
No doubt. The most informative and logical guy out there.
You have got to be one of my favorite UA-camrs I’ve been listening to you talk about different parts of cars it for about a year now i usually play video games and listen to your videos and I find it very very informative keep up the good work man
Oh thank God you have a video on this. I'm beginning to look into aftermarket ECUs and its so complicated.
Listen to you gives me a feeling of getting smart!
Excellent video. I learned more in 20 minutes than researching for days.
My CL9 accord has a stock ecu with a reflash, but if you run different camshafts and vtc timing gear you need to modify more parameters, which means you need the Acura TSX ecu or a hondata one.
Also the yaris GR has an aftermarket ecu and wire harness with all the cables that fit plug and play, but you can't modify parameters regarding the safety systems, so when you swap the ECU you lose all the lane assist, adaptive cruise, pedestrian safety braking, parking sensors and so on...
What year is your cl9 (preface or facelift)?
I didnt know hondata supports dbw?
These videos are usually very informative but this is also the funniest yet. Thank you
The key thing for myself, and probably a lot of others, is emission testing. If your area just uses a sniffer, you can run whatever as long as you can hit the numbers. But my area hooks up to the port and reads codes. So I either use the OEM ECU to get the right OBD codes or I find a shop that will fake the test. No standalone unit handles OBD as far as I'm aware.
Are you in USA? Can an OBDII emissions test include sniffer results?
@@Meatball546 I am. It does include a sniffer. But it also reads a bunch of info off OBD to check readiness. If I have a bad O2 sensor I will fail regardless how clean the exhaust is.
This video was really informative but way funnier than the previous ones, I loved it !
I love my 2002 RSX-S! Great ECU, great engine, and still looks pretty good!
I've used a couple standalones. Granted I went low cost, 1973 triumph spitfire with a toyota 4age running ITBs, and full sequential with coil on plug using a megasquirt 2 v3. That one was a DIY kit that required assembling the ecu. My 78 yamaha is running a microsquirt. With tunerstudio it's very easy to tune and adjust things. Flashing a factory ecu works for some changes, but it's much more limited most of the time.
Sure wish it was more feasible to either replace or reflash the ECU for the Toyota 3F-E engine (1988 - 1992 Land Cruisers). To this day I'm convinced there's a lot of efficiency to be recovered with a better turned ECU. Especially if you can tune it to take advantage of desmogging, any performance work (exhaust, larger throttle body, larger valves after a cylinder head job, etc.), and just finding the ideal ignition curve for the engine's configuration and application (performance versus economy).
Even though I live in Germany and the question "can I do XYZ to my car" is met with "HAHAHAHAHAAAA!!! NEIN!", your videos are very interesting and informative.
I'm new to this car things. I just stumbled upon this video. Basically the tuning is as PC Overclocking. Better cooling, better OC settings, benchmark tests (driving) etc.
As highly experienced overclocker, i think stage 1 tune is the best for most people to not fk up everything. If you want more hrsprs, get a bigger engine, most probably, another better car.
Good coverage!
Btw, I do reverse engineering for Honda ECUs and I can do speed density conversion + turbo with new map sensor without requiring any extra tools but myself. I can create and extend tables to accept boost to my liking. I can rescale the MAP sensor for higher boost. And there are many things that can be done! The Honda reflash game has just changed, at least for me and for people around me. Turbo on automatic ecus can be done fine! I'm partnering up with people around the world to show the world that the time has come for Honda. We shall show the world that the reflashable stock Honda ECUs are powerful! And it saves a lot of money for car lovers who want to have fun with their street cars!
Cheers!
can you pass emissions with your own stand alone ECU like Halteck?
What I would like to see is a reasonably priced stand alone ECU that controls the transmission and gauges, eliminates unnecessary bs like going into limp mode because of a loose gas cap, or an unnecessary sensor losing its ground, and comes with a manual with installation instructions and programming parameters for popular engines and vehicles.
Dude the knowledge you possess is incredible!
A great intro into the ECU world.Thanks
As a Speeduino user, great video! (‘90 NA)
Been a fan for a while. This might be best vid yet. Keep up the great content 🙏🏽
Too informative plz continue creating vedio for ecu , continue to place it on playlist
Reflashing vs standalone, the old computer has old capacitors. They have a finite life. After 10 years in a hot engine bay it's amazing they lasted that long.
Great advert for AEM. Well done!
Exelent explaned stand alene is the way to go. Allways good content on this channel. Thanks and have a Nice sunday.
Your drive and information are beyond awesome!!! Keep up the progress!!!
Thank you once again 🙂 Your talks provide the best technical explanations I have found anywhere to date.
(I have found a Maf sensor will adjust to exhaust and intake mods without the need for a re-flash as long as the timing table isn't the limiting factor).
Very interesting again, keep up the good work!
10:52 pretty accurate for bought vs built
Absolutely Top video
I’m in my late 40s and I’m loving this new way of tuning
Very very interesting.
Cars are very clever today and this highlights the importants of engine management
❤
Love it
Once agin U hit the nail with great humor as well.
Keep Up the good work !
My car doesn't even have a turbski....
But I do need a standalone ECU.
Turns out you can fit ITBs to a BMW i6 and just throw away the MAF, ICV and TPS and it will still run.
But like a bag of bolts that will bog out.
Thanks man i was looking for a video to compare the two for the longest
Great video fam. Huge insights and a sublime sense of humor. You just earned a new fan. Keep up the good work, it's really appreciated.
That was so much fun! laughing all the way through.
thank you bro your video convinced me to go with a stand alone for my s13/kaT
love from LA
This episode was amazing, bro. Love the humor and the info.
i love that it's golfs in the video, i own a really nice mk4,my third mk4 in a row and i love it :)
If you ask me the mk4 is the highest quality modern golf!
Nice job on this one too. Funny and really good sharing knowledge, good work!
Edit: I thought I posted this comment on the previous video (the Ford Hidden Boost Tank) 😂.
Damn! so good memories watching those WRC footage... Besides all that you say the most important piece for the performance of a the brand is the pilot
The cameos by Dominic Fauxretto had me dying.
😂😂
I was looking at this, because I have an old land cruiser, and finding ECU for them isn't an easy thing to do.
Dude, you really know how to explain stuff! great video!
In the mid 80's I drag raced a mid 60's big block Chevrolet. Wondering if any kind of ECU would have made a significant improvement with this 12.5:1 compression ratio, headers, Holley 850 DP carb, solid lifter cam, HEI distributor ,other stuff and posi rear axel with maybe 3:73 rear ratio with turbo 400 trans with shift kit. Got to now wonder if there was any more power to be put to the drag slicks...
Excellent video! A scratch build or kit, would also be a candidate for a stand alone ECU.
Bro, I really FW the videos man. I really wanna see this channel grow!
Друже, правиш одличне клипове из којих се може пуно тога научити.
Видим да си се базирао искључиво на америчку публику, разлог је очигледан, много више прегледа, а самим тим и новаца.
АЛИ било би јако добро када би макар направио титл на матерњем језику да би и ми који не разумемо тако добро енглески разумели о чему тачно говориш, јер има јако пуно стручних речи и израза које се не појављују у свакодневном енглеском говору, а ни англосаксонске мерне јединице нам нису баш блиске. Велики поздрав!
There is one more option. My 1954 FJ Holden has a 5.0 liter V8 with engine and ECU from a 1994 Holden Commodore. ECU from 2004 5.7 liter (LS) Holden Commodore, spliced into 5.0 the liter loom.
***Input please***
Great video and just like many videos on this channel it gets thinking about my future as an automotive tech. I'm in my 30s so I have about 30 years of work ahead of me. I've been working as a dealership master tech for the better part of my life.
As many brands are moving to EV, dealership service departments are going to slow down with the "gravy work" fluid flushes, tune ups, belts, filters and even brake jobs will be few and far between with regenerative braking.
This gets me to thinking that a niche service will benefit. I'm interested in getting more in to performance and tuning, especially if working on ICE vehicles becomes more of a specialty like current guys that work on carburetors and setting points. I know all the fundamentals but not the fine details that will make me a master (I know experience will play a huge role in mastering performance and tuning.)
So with this being said, are course like HP Academy or other online programs worth the money?
Like that one time where Nissan said that the GTR ECU can't be hacked
Everything gets cracked eventually, , but it seems it's becoming more and more difficult
They had hard time cracking it, took almost a year before they managed to do that. Example golf 8 first tune was 2 days after the first sales in Germany 😂
I love your videos bro, and I think this is your best yet. I have an Evo X running around 400AWKW on the stock (reflashed) ECU. Having watched this, I'm now considering investing in a stand-alone, especially as I have almost reached the end of the stock trans' life and need that rebuilt to go with my rebuilt engine. Keep up the good work my friend, regards from Australia.
Haltech is the name of the game, and its Australian-born. Absolutely killer ECUs, man.
I simply LOVE his sense of humor!!!
😅
Great timing once again. Now that I'm doing some heavier mods on my engine this is exactly the video I needed
Amusing, yet informative commercial 👌
😂🤣😂 Great job on this video I feel like a relic from auto history. Back in the late 70s very early 80s when I was building cars and bikes as an apprentice mechanic we were still running carburettors, coils, ignition points in some cases and using tools like timing lights, dwell meters and even carburettor synchronising tools. Never really got into modern tuning but yeah as well as doing a lot of carbie and jetting work I was one of those fellas tuning cars and bikes largely by ear. Thanks to industrial deafness these days tuning by ear is little more than a beautiful memory.
I'm a big carb fan and tried my hand at them just for the sake of experiencing carburettors.
ua-cam.com/play/PLbsU-PVaYMW0Wtosuo68Hxb5shideDMOu.html
Stand alone is the best option..
If i would've seen this video back in 2017 i would have saved alot of cash ..
I used a pigyback (unichip Q+) on my old Japanese car and tuned it alittle for more power .. 3 months later the car died!! Wouldn't starting at.. more like a power storage.. once in the wrok shop i came to light that the stock ECU was done with .. had to get a new one and it was not an easy task..
Bottom line i discovered that the factory ecu attend to fight this pigybacks as they don't get along and in the end the ecu will burn it self out ..
So stand alone was the best option for my case.. back then.. if i only knew..
Thank you for your awesom content
Am a subscribe since day one, as i drive 4 answers 💪🤣
Keep it up champ 👑
So SIMPLE!
If you can have ALL the inputs and outputs of the factory ECU, in an after market ECU, then you can do anything you want!!
Is fueltech also based on VE target maps like AEM & Haltech?
Great content... keep it coming 👍
"Vehicle modification is the biggest financial mistake you can make" as someone who works on modified cars and owns/runs/ and modifies cars... if there is one KEY takeaway from this this video, besides all the other fantastic information, its this!
Currently facing an ecu related hesitation past 3k rpm on my Volvo 940, so against my best wishes, i might have to put a standalone in it.
I loVEd it, great, great’ great. Off to buy an ÉCU thing, see you soon. ❤
thank you so much for this, i needed this explanation for years now. time to car shop now )3
The most educational AEM ads on youtube
You need biology education,not this one
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Amazing explination as usual thank you for your efforts
This video is TREMENDOUS.
So, if the map is sitting there, looking at input values, and the smart ECU has to output stuff, one solution to modifying the map values, for a certain engine operating point, is to simulate an operating point that produces the desired map values, by inserting a 'black box' that reads the 'real' engine/drivetrain inputs, and outputs values, in real time, that let the ECU output the desired control signals...
Appreciate the video and thanks for the plug ins for the tuners. I need to seek out some help and those will be a good start.
I got an old chevy s10 pick with a 4.3L v6. It was equipped with an old poppet "spider injector" style fuel delivery system which I updated with a the newer individual injector system design that makes it more closer to a true multi-port but it is still designed like the primitive orginal unit. For awhile the fuel injector worked fine until recently it's starting to act up causing misfires and I feel that it's also an unreliable unit. Therefore I end up buying a marine intake unit which is a true multi-port system that is made out of a heavy cast iron intake, equipped with it's own fuel rail, pressure regulator, and fuel injectors which are externally mounted. Now the issue I have been having is trying to find some who can reprogram the orginal ecm so it can run the new intake correctly. I don't want to install this intake until i know for sure that i can find someone or a company that can do this. So far after contacting a couple of these tuners, they don't want to touch it. Technically this intake and fuel delivery unit is ment for marine applications so I am not aware of the ecm parameters that those have verses the auto ones.
Excellent video, thanks. It's very precise information and interesting.