Thank you for this video. I have been waiting for a sale on this model from Woodcraft or another vendor. One popped up locally for $300 in essentially new condition. I jumped on it immediately. Looking forward to getting it set up and in use!
Great video. I been scratching my head for weeks trying to decide what bandsaw to buy. I finally decided to buy this model from the local woodcrafters today. I'll have it together tomorrow, but I'm gonna take the 1/2 blade I bought back for a 3/8. Not looking for resaw, more bandsaw box and carving projects that need more power than my scroll saw. favorited and subbed
Thank you. I hope you enjoy it, and I definitely think you made the right choice to swap the 1/2" for the 3/8". You will really notice the difference between it and a scroll saw. Best of luck!
I bought one of these a coupe years ago, and while I agree that it’s far and above any other bench top bandsaw out there, I have run into several issues with mine. The big one is an annoying screeching/screaming sound that I’ve been unable to cure! As I’ve worked my way through the machine trying to find the source, I’ve uncovered things like loose fasteners and even a set screw in the motor pulley that was never even snugged up! The result was the pulley freely sliding from one end to the other of the exposed motor impeller, with the set screw drifting along the machined flat on the shaft. Btw, that didn’t fix the problem! I should have returned it, but situations prevented it! Three Rikon machines call my shop home, and while ok, they each have issues. Not sure I’d spring for another blue & white machine though!
I watched your first video and found it very disappointing. It did not really help me set my new saw up . I previously owned the 10-305 and happy with it. I just wanted to upgrade. All that being said you did a great job on this new video. You eliminated all the confusion that I still had after watching 1st video. Great job!
I just bough my new saw from Woodcraft Black Friday sale until Dec 2 for $439.99 and it is still in the box. You adjusted the fence angle by adjusting the mounting plate and I don't think that is correct. I was playing with the fence at Woodcraft for deflection and wanted to look at the locking mechanism and I noticed that there are two metal set screws with UHMW faces on the inside and two plastic screws on the outside are for unlatched racking adjustment. The inner screws are the contact points when the latch is engaged. If I were to back out one of these screws the fence will move in the direction of that side. The other screw will have to be moved equidistant in the opposite direct to maintain tension. Doing the adjustment this way the fence will always be correct when the rail is removed and reinstalled after a blade change without the need to readjust every time so long as the rail is pushed fully in each time. Like I said my saw is still in the box. I will correct this if I am wrong after taking a better look. Just because someone owns the same equipment and has been using it for a while does not guarantee they are correct.
I think you are correct. Just went back and looked at the manual (mine is from a few years back), and now I see why I missed it. There is no reference to this in mine. After a bit of googling it appears like someone contacted Rikon around 2020 and it was a manual mistake. Thanks for the update!
85% of the time I have a 1/4" Olsen All-Pro GPT 6TPI on. I don't like blades that aren't .25 thick, and the All-Pro GPT line is. 3/8" is going to be better for thicker straight cuts, and 3/16" for tight curves, but I live in the middle with just the 1/4" All-Pro GPT blade from them. It is by far my favorite blade line, and I have never been impressed with anything else. I can't claim to have tried every brand, but I have no reason to change to anything else. The price is right, imo, but you usually can only get the All-Pro line from their own website. They aren't on Amazon much these days.
Timestamps:
- Intro/Why the new video? - 0:00-0:48
- What I like - 0:49-6:14
- SETUP TOTAL - 6:15-35:45
- Adjusting Table - 6:39-9:27
- Blade Change TOTAL - 9:28-12:51
- Removing Blade - 9:39-11:49
- Putting Blade On - 11:50-12:51
- Tensioning - 12:52-18:05
- Flutter/Pressure Test - 14:06-18:05
- Tracking - 18:06-23:14
- What to know about blades - 23:15-25:44
- Bearings TOTAL - 25:45-32:52
- Bottom Bearings - 26:18-29:25
- Top Bearings - 29:26-32:52
- Setting Fence - 32:53-35:41
- Maintenance - 35:40-39:48
- A few more notes - 39:49-40:45
- Final overview of Pros/Cons - 40:46-END
Thank you for this video. I have been waiting for a sale on this model from Woodcraft or another vendor. One popped up locally for $300 in essentially new condition. I jumped on it immediately. Looking forward to getting it set up and in use!
Excellent overview. Thank you.
Great review. Saw one locally in my area for $400. Thinking about buying it.
Great review and tunning.
Great video. I been scratching my head for weeks trying to decide what bandsaw to buy. I finally decided to buy this model from the local woodcrafters today. I'll have it together tomorrow, but I'm gonna take the 1/2 blade I bought back for a 3/8. Not looking for resaw, more bandsaw box and carving projects that need more power than my scroll saw. favorited and subbed
Thank you. I hope you enjoy it, and I definitely think you made the right choice to swap the 1/2" for the 3/8". You will really notice the difference between it and a scroll saw. Best of luck!
I bought one of these a coupe years ago, and while I agree that it’s far and above any other bench top bandsaw out there, I have run into several issues with mine. The big one is an annoying screeching/screaming sound that I’ve been unable to cure! As I’ve worked my way through the machine trying to find the source, I’ve uncovered things like loose fasteners and even a set screw in the motor pulley that was never even snugged up! The result was the pulley freely sliding from one end to the other of the exposed motor impeller, with the set screw drifting along the machined flat on the shaft. Btw, that didn’t fix the problem! I should have returned it, but situations prevented it! Three Rikon machines call my shop home, and while ok, they each have issues. Not sure I’d spring for another blue & white machine though!
Nice job, man. This info will be very helpful as I have this saw arriving to me tomorrow, 7/22. Can’t wait to get it going.
I hope you enjoy it!
I watched your first video and found it very disappointing. It did not really help me set my new saw up . I previously owned the 10-305 and happy with it. I just wanted to upgrade. All that being said you did a great job on this new video. You eliminated all the confusion that I still had after watching 1st video. Great job!
I just bough my new saw from Woodcraft Black Friday sale until Dec 2 for $439.99 and it is still in the box. You adjusted the fence angle by adjusting the mounting plate and I don't think that is correct. I was playing with the fence at Woodcraft for deflection and wanted to look at the locking mechanism and I noticed that there are two metal set screws with UHMW faces on the inside and two plastic screws on the outside are for unlatched racking adjustment. The inner screws are the contact points when the latch is engaged. If I were to back out one of these screws the fence will move in the direction of that side. The other screw will have to be moved equidistant in the opposite direct to maintain tension. Doing the adjustment this way the fence will always be correct when the rail is removed and reinstalled after a blade change without the need to readjust every time so long as the rail is pushed fully in each time. Like I said my saw is still in the box. I will correct this if I am wrong after taking a better look.
Just because someone owns the same equipment and has been using it for a while does not guarantee they are correct.
I think you are correct. Just went back and looked at the manual (mine is from a few years back), and now I see why I missed it. There is no reference to this in mine. After a bit of googling it appears like someone contacted Rikon around 2020 and it was a manual mistake. Thanks for the update!
just bought this saw and wanted to ask what is a good blade to use when doing curves and straight cuts not really doing any rip sawing
85% of the time I have a 1/4" Olsen All-Pro GPT 6TPI on. I don't like blades that aren't .25 thick, and the All-Pro GPT line is. 3/8" is going to be better for thicker straight cuts, and 3/16" for tight curves, but I live in the middle with just the 1/4" All-Pro GPT blade from them.
It is by far my favorite blade line, and I have never been impressed with anything else. I can't claim to have tried every brand, but I have no reason to change to anything else. The price is right, imo, but you usually can only get the All-Pro line from their own website. They aren't on Amazon much these days.