Відео

Suggest using a quality double sided tape for holding the centre pin

In there manual, it says to set it up to right of blade for left tilt saw. I'm curious as to why you didn't do that. I'm sure you have an excellent reason.

Great video, very thorough. Your content is great for all woodworkers but a definite must for beginners.

Hey Miles, thanks so much for posting this video. You've got a new subscriber here. When I am restoring or finishing furniture for a client I always use a couple of coats of amber shellac dissolved into denatured alcohol followed by 4 to 6 coats of modified tung oil. Now that I'm trying to transition my business to some 18th and 19th century Furniture (if I can bring in 10% of my earnings for this year from furniture I will be over the moon!) I am looking to use a more accurate historical finishing method. When I use linseed oil on tool handles, furniture that I've built for my work, or for applying to unpainted exterior pine clapboards and trim I always mix boiled linseed oil with a decent percentage of turpentine and a tiny bit of gold linseed oil paint. I'm interested in trying your method for burnishing because I would like to use my linseed oil recipe on sellable furniture. In your experience do you find that the linseed oil raises up the little hairy wood bits when you apply it to a burnished surface? Have you ever tried reburnishing after your second coat of linseed oil has fully dried? Thanks so much!

"...treasure your Johnsons..." 😂

Very useful information!

I build guitars, so I wound up buying both a planer, and a jointer. Best thing I did was to convert the planer to helical head. So much nicer, and I can plane figured wood. You can also use a router table, with a straight bit, as a jointer, if needed, and you are willing to set it up. Nice detailed video.

I find it Difficult if I need to cut olif wood. That is hard to go true. Sometimes my saw pops of because it's hard. My saw is 1 cm so it is not a thin one.

Russell Platten has an excellent video on making a router table for the 4000 out of shop scrap. His is much more stable than Dremels version.

I found that with a Makita 1101 that you have to have the main lock not completely undone. There’s a spot where you have the locking knob just right and it opens it a few thousands and the router dropped right in. Kreg support helped me out. But it certainly wasn’t intuitive. Not for my dumbass, at least. LOL.

Does the housing pivot to 90 degrees for use as a small grinder (fine, detail work)?

Great video and review. I see that most people give this gauge high ratings. Unfortunately I haven't had the same result. Please keep in mind that I am NOT saying that the Incra is a bad miter gauge. I just didn't have a good experience with it. Here in Canada the price of this miter gauge is much higher than what it costs in the US. It's around $350 after tax. My problems started when it wasn't square right out of the box like it was in most of the reviews I've seen. I guess I'm just not lucky. I spent a lot of time trying to get it square. And even when I thought it was square I still wasn't getting "perfect" cuts. By that I mean there was still some light under the digital angle finder and the work piece when checking the cut. Not a huge gap but one just the same. I checked it with other squares and got the same results. For the price I paid for the gauge it shouldn't be doing that. The thin little marker on the angle setting - I cut my thumb when trying to move it. It is very sharp. As for the plastic knobs that need to be turned to adjust the fence - I had a hard time turning them because of the cut on my thumb. They are very rough. As for needing what I call the "screw driver" to make most adjustments, I think I'm like a lot of people who do not like this feature. Unlike you, there is no shelf to keep the screw drive on because my table saw is in the middle of my shop. In the end, after trying to use it and trying to get it right for almost two weeks, I returned it. It was just too much money to put out for something that really didn't perform up to my expectations. I ended up putting out another $50 and got something that was perfect - and I mean perfect - out of the box. Checking the same angles with the same angle finder there is no gap whatsoever. There are no plastic parts and I don't need the screw driver thingy needed to make any adjustments. You mentioned that after market "levers" and other things can be bought for around $30 - probably more in Canadian dollars. Well, I spent $50 more for the replacement gauge I bought and there's no need for me to put out any more money for any "upgrade" parts. Again, in no way am I saying that the Incra miter gauge is a bad or inferior product. It is obviously not. It just didn't work out for me.

Both at the same time.

Thanks, I've been using the Minwax, and I hate it. For some reason, it takes forever to buff it off of the cast iron. I just ordered a can of the bowling alley wax, per your recommendation. Hopefully, I'll have better luck with it.

Very helpful, thanks !

Thanks for making this video. I’m new to woodworking and my son recommended this router. Your detailed video really helped me in getting started.

Thank you. This was very informative video. Your sound level and clarity were perfect. nice job.

great!

I have a bunch of candle wax, I mixed some with mineral oil until I got a consistency I liked. Seems to work quite well.

Another great episode, thanks. I remember buying my planer and then spending much time with workarounds to square my lumber. When I finally caved and bought a jointer, it was a huge relief because it was suddenly so easy to get material ready for projects. I have a bench-top jointer like yours and built some inserts for the extensions to handle longer bowed boards. I think that anyone who continues woodworking for more than a year will appreciate having a jointer to supplement a planer.

If you are waxing your saw bench tops, can that contaminate the timber that you are cutting and spoil the finish that you may use on that timber?

Very interesting presentation. Thank you for sharing and especially for the bowling-alley wax tip. The metal bottom of my can of Johnson's Paste wax is showing and I was surprised to learn there is no obvious equivalent in the supermarket.

I'm too cheap for mahogany. And for walnut. My favorite is cherry - cuts like butter, beautiful beautiful wood.

Splinters - ugh. I sand the boards before assembly because it's easier than sanding after assembly, and early sanding minimizes the chance of picking up splinters during handling.

Good to know. My Johnson's is still 1/3 full but I saw the Minwax and so I wasn't worried about running out. So I'll forgo that and look at bowling alley wax when the time comes.

What about making a BLO and wax mixture?

Also, I have a can of the Minwax paste approximately the same age as yours, and mine doesn't look orange. Its half gone and is still white. Is yours dried or does it change color after awhile?

Excellent, concise discussion on paste wax. You answered small, lingering questions I've been suspicious of. Your mic sounds great!

Thank you for another deep dive. This is a topic I really needed to learn about.

Thank you so much for this video. I just unboxed mine and will put it together tomorrow. I saved your video in case I have to look back at it.

This is very nicely done, extremely informative for a rookie like me. Thank you!

Another good video, Miles. This is a great build for beginner wood workers. Keep up the good work!

I love Woodpecker’s tools-I’ll gladly pay the extra and buy American!

Well that’s what I needed to know . I done the same thing so il have to fix mine to . Thanks for the info .

I even simplified it more by cutting all 2x to 21inch and used 2x3s instead, thanks.

Screwing through a 2 by 4 directly into the end grain of another 2 by 4 is probably not going to dramatically reduce the useful life of the cart, but using that Kreg jig to drill at an angle through the end grain on one and screw at the same angle into the cross grain of the other is less likely to produce splits as the wood expands and contracts through the seasons. I have the same jig and the same HF clamps, including the hand screw clamps you have on the wall. Useful stuff isn't always expensive.

Formidable vidéo À bientôt

Dude, don't over talk it !!!!!

As a retired education administrator, who has done hundreds of teacher evaluations regarding best instructional practices, I can say with absolute confidence that you are excellent teacher. When it comes to instructional theory into practice ( look up Madeline Hunter ) you are the exemplar. Thank you so much for your effort to achieve excellence in the woodwork you do as well as your instructional excellence.

Love the channel. Hopefully Santa brought your a lapel mic

Thank you for the excellent video, with simple explanations and demonstrations. I am DIY, and I've just bought hand held router, and ordered set of 20 cheep routers. My idea is to get used to my new machine, and process of working with it, so I believe that a cheep set will do for purpose.

I recently bought a keyless chuck for my 12" old school drill press and I gotta say I prefer the keyed one and sent it back. I didn't like how large it was and wished they made a stubby model but all the ones I found seemed to be around the same length. This inherigly decreased the drilling height and magnified any runout so in my opinion keyless chucks are overrated for a drill press this size. I see them best fit for floor style bigger sized presses so I just ordered high quality Rohm keyed chuck and sent the very expensive keyless back and I'm much happier with that set up.

Get yourself a better Mic bro👍

Great video Miles. I recently started a channel and was curious if you are filming with an IPhone or if you have a dedicated camera?

Good video, looks like you have a great start on a growing youtube page. Maybe consider a lapel microphone. Another note about mahogany and many tropical hardwoods is allergy risk. I get contact dermatitis from mahogany wood dust escalating to full hives if I don't clean off quickly. Hope to see your page grow!

Great show. I have been using African Mahagony, which is not genuine. It is cheaper and a bit harder, but coloring is not as consistent. Thanks to this video, I am going to spend a bit more to try the genuine stuff.

Did you ever check the run-out? I have a similar drill press and every once in a while I put an indicator on the chuck (Jacob's on a #2 morris taper). It needs to be reset anytime the dp gets moved or every 6 mo or so. Doesn't take much and easy to achieve 1 thousand.

This is a great review. I have been using this for year or so and agree with a 9/10 rating.

i built a 6 inch support extension for my table to cut down on my pulling it back too far

I have this gauge and love it. I replaced the stock knobs with some lever ones that allow ratcheting to make it easier to move the fence. I have a Sawstop so I am paranoid about touching the blade with it. Thanks for the great review.