Truly education comes from one another freely and in common. From this here work is coming a better way of raising a generation lost from lack of love for the truth. Doing the work for our master now that we know Him is the love of neighbour. All of the treasures are found in nature. To focus on one part of it is understand the whole. Much appreciation and love to all.
When you need to propagate good varieties that don’t respond well to other grafting techniques, using the T-Budding Grafting Technique in late summer or early fall with dormant buds can be the answer. Since the bud is protected inside the bark, it’s less prone to dehydration problems that can be an issue with other bud grafting techniques. Try it when propagating peaches, plums, citrus and many other fruit trees. if you liked the video or if you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Most peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, etc, which belong to the genus Prunus are compatible. Nevertheless, some cultivars might fail while others will work. You just have to try. Regarding apples, you can graft any number of Apple varieties into a granny smith (one different in every branch, if you want). The problem will be managing the vigor between the different grafted varieties. Check this video - ua-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/v-deo.html In the last grafting example, I have 7 different varieties of Pears grafted to the same Pear Tree.
These techniques are so useful even for ornamental shrubs and trees. I have a small yard so I used your grafting techniques to graft several different Ficus elastica cultivars onto a Ficus lyrata. As well as grafting different colors of Angel trumpet vines into one tree. Thank you for sharing your techniques for trees in dormancy and when there is free-flowing sap.
Another valuable video! Thank you. I did T-budding a few year back in fall. T-budding & whip and tongue in spring are what I love to do the most for grafting.
Hello, Mr. Sacadura. Thank you for your excellent videos. I live in San Jose, CA and am new to grafting. I have 4 small (one vigorous, one moderately so) potted MP-29 rootstocks. This is hard to get in CA, almost impossible outside of wholesale. It's very resistant to oak root fungus (Amarillia) which is a big problem in our yard. I also have a vigorously growing hard-to-get heirloom peach tree scion. It was grafted this April onto the only available rootstock at that time -- rootstock which is NOT oak root fungus resistant. My aim is to graft this growing peach tree onto this disease-resistant rootstock so I can plant it into a specially prepared spot in our yard. (We all assumed the MP-29 rootstock would be bigger when it arrived this winter --it was new to the local rare plant organization I got to order it-- so the peach cutting could be grafted to it directly. Instead, I had the dormant peach scion grafted onto the non-disease resistant rootstock in April just so the peach could grow this season in case I can't get a cutting next winter.) In short, my scion and rootstock are very limited. 2.5 weeks ago (early June), I did a simple bud graft to one of the less vigorous MP-29s. I think it's alive (thanks for your instructions). But since then, one of the other MP-29s has really grown out with multiple branches. Since I also have vigorous peach growth (~3-4 long branches) of about the same diameter (pencil width), I'm wondering if I can graft a branch to the MP-29 (trim off the ends and leaves) instead of just a bud to take advantage of this vigor and speed up the process? I've seen this done elsewhere but the rootstock was cut clear through pretty low and the graft was attached near the cut like you would a chip-bud graft only with additional wrapping support. It gives multiple buds a chance to grow. Would something like that be possible WITHOUT completely cutting off the top of my MP-29 plant in case it doesn't work? In other words, could I treat the rootstock like chip-bud grafting (keep some leaves above the graft to keep juices flowing until the graft takes off)? I figure if I can graft a branch instead of a bud, it would help the peach get established sooner. But I don't want to lose most of my healthiest MP-29 if it fails. I would greatly appreciate your input! Thank you.
@@JSacadura I am moving to a new home in a while and plan to have fruit trees and a whole produce garden, so your videos are a gold mine to me right now. :D
Thanks for make this video.I'm from Bangladesh. In my country I never get parafilm easily .So, I want to get a video to using another types of grafting tap without parafilm.
With this type of graft you can use plastic grafting tape to secure the grafts. You can even use transparent plastic bags cut into narrow strips. Just be sure to avoid covering the bud. If you do, be sure to cut the plastic in the bud area after a few weeks, just in case the bud starts growing. It won't be able to break free from the plastic as it does with the parafilm.
It’s winter here now in Australia, June July August, winter ends August then following Spring starts in September, October to November, summer is December to February-and Fall starts March a April May.
Amazing as always, sir I do have a question ❓ Is aluminium foil covering needed to all types of grafting or only few choosen one, as I see you used aluminium foil in some cases and not in others...
Thank you for the instructions. I have a question regarding to choosing rootstock. What is best location on the tree for the scion to be graft on? Do I graft the scion on the main branch or new branch? Do I do it top tree or bottom tree? If I'm grafting it in spring instead of summer or fall, would it be growing in the same year?
I know this is a year old, but in case you're wondering for next season- I'm not too sure since I just started horticulture myself, but I know you want to graft the scion on a newer branch, one that's tender, about 1-2 years old. Not Hardwood! (I think some can work with Hardwood though but honestly I don't remember.) Also I think the time does affect it, as I'm learning it, late summer is the best time to propagate fruit trees by budding, I'm not sure for non-fruit trees. I think the location of the graft doesn't matter on the tree, as long as the branch is new and sporting new growth and has no disease. (The branch the guy uses in the video is the best example I can give) Also if you're planning on starting your own rootstalk, my textbook said they are "usually started from seed in fall to the size of a pencil by July or August." By then the buds should be mature enough for use. After all, I haven't don't this myself yet, but I am planning to come Summer. (If anyone would like to correct me let me know, I'm still learning too so any help would be good.)
Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge! Could be possible for Master Sacadura to make a video about grape's grafting? I unsuccessfully tried several times in Spring & Summer! I will try again now in fall.
I'm in zone 9a. Its getting chilly at night (below 50º F - 10ºC). So most fruit trees are starting to drop their leaves and reducing sap flow, so graft healing is very slow and might fail.
?? Todos los vídeos del canal tienen subtítulos en español, incluso este. Es una cuestión de activar los subtítulos y elegir la lengua pretendida en las configuraciones del vídeo.
@@JSacadura hi ... Actually I did and I'm happy to tell you of great success in spring grafting.. I put nebbiolo buds on some established rooted vines. Some of them gave me several meters of growth in Niagara region Canada.
You are referring to peaches, I presume. In North America you might find some of the cultivars mentioned in this article - homeguides.sfgate.com/low-chill-peach-trees-75882.html In my orchard I have some low chill peaches and nectarines (like Lola or Victor ) but I believe they are only available in european dealers. These have very, very early bloom dates (has most low chill varieties do), so they are unsuitable in areas with late frosts. Artic Glo white nectarine, surprisingly, produced a decent crop this year. It requires 400--500 chill hours, and we probably had less than half of that, this past winter. Most peach trees with higher chill requirements didn't produce at all.
sir is there is any difference between budding or grafting in case of fruit quality,early fruiting etc.. so which is good for fruit tree grafting or budding?
The resulting plants will provide identical fruits. The grafting technique used (budding or grafting) has no influence in the fruit quality of the future tree.
Thank you very much for your information....very quiet, thoughtful, and helpful. A question.....can I graft an edible pear tree onto a weeping pear tree (Pyrus salicifolia)? Regards from New Zealand.
Tenho videiras de mesa para consumo próprio mas pouca disponibilidade para lhes dedicar a tenção que mereciam nesta área complicada (muita humidade ambiental) e, por isso, são raros os anos que tiro delas tudo o que poderiam produzir (tento evitar usar pesticidas ao máximo). De futuro, pode ser que surjam alguns videos sobre o tema.
I have an established espalier apple tree, with1 or 2 foot long bare spots on the cordons, that I'd like to bud graft onto, to fill the branch out. You said after the graft takes, to always cut off all the the growth ahead of the graft, but that would mean cutting off my cordon. Would it be ok to just let the graft take and grow into a fruiting spur and not cut off the growth ahead of the graft? I want to do 2 or 3 on each of the 6 variety branches.
Si, también funciona en higueras. El primero vídeo en mi canal - ua-cam.com/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/v-deo.html - ejemplifica esta técnica. De cualquier forma prefiero las técnicas utilizadas en este vídeo más reciente - ua-cam.com/video/NBV9OIfQlaY/v-deo.html
The best ever in answering all our unexpressed questions in grafting.Thanks immensely.
Probably it's the best channel about grafting explication on UA-cam! Thank you!
Glad you find it useful. Thanks for the comment.
Truly education comes from one another freely and in common. From this here work is coming a better way of raising a generation lost from lack of love for the truth. Doing the work for our master now that we know Him is the love of neighbour. All of the treasures are found in nature. To focus on one part of it is understand the whole. Much appreciation and love to all.
When you need to propagate good varieties that don’t respond well to other grafting techniques, using the T-Budding Grafting Technique in late summer or early fall with dormant buds can be the answer. Since the bud is protected inside the bark, it’s less prone to dehydration problems that can be an issue with other bud grafting techniques. Try it when propagating peaches, plums, citrus and many other fruit trees.
if you liked the video or if you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Thank u fro your information. From India (Asia continent )
Can I graft a plum bud onto a peach tree, or perhaps different varieties of apples on to a grannysmith apple tree? Thanks!
Most peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, etc, which belong to the genus Prunus are compatible. Nevertheless, some cultivars might fail while others will work. You just have to try. Regarding apples, you can graft any number of Apple varieties into a granny smith (one different in every branch, if you want). The problem will be managing the vigor between the different grafted varieties.
Check this video - ua-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/v-deo.html
In the last grafting example, I have 7 different varieties of Pears grafted to the same Pear Tree.
@@JSacadura awesome!! Thank you so much
These techniques are so useful even for ornamental shrubs and trees. I have a small yard so I used your grafting techniques to graft several different Ficus elastica cultivars onto a Ficus lyrata. As well as grafting different colors of Angel trumpet vines into one tree. Thank you for sharing your techniques for trees in dormancy and when there is free-flowing sap.
Another valuable video! Thank you. I did T-budding a few year back in fall. T-budding & whip and tongue in spring are what I love to do the most for grafting.
You are easily the best grafting instructor on UA-cam, which basically means "in the world."
Love the clear explanation and visuals! Perfect pacing too! Exactly what I needed. :-)
Hello, Mr. Sacadura. Thank you for your excellent videos. I live in San Jose, CA and am new to grafting. I have 4 small (one vigorous, one moderately so) potted MP-29 rootstocks. This is hard to get in CA, almost impossible outside of wholesale. It's very resistant to oak root fungus (Amarillia) which is a big problem in our yard. I also have a vigorously growing hard-to-get heirloom peach tree scion. It was grafted this April onto the only available rootstock at that time -- rootstock which is NOT oak root fungus resistant. My aim is to graft this growing peach tree onto this disease-resistant rootstock so I can plant it into a specially prepared spot in our yard. (We all assumed the MP-29 rootstock would be bigger when it arrived this winter --it was new to the local rare plant organization I got to order it-- so the peach cutting could be grafted to it directly. Instead, I had the dormant peach scion grafted onto the non-disease resistant rootstock in April just so the peach could grow this season in case I can't get a cutting next winter.) In short, my scion and rootstock are very limited.
2.5 weeks ago (early June), I did a simple bud graft to one of the less vigorous MP-29s. I think it's alive (thanks for your instructions). But since then, one of the other MP-29s has really grown out with multiple branches. Since I also have vigorous peach growth (~3-4 long branches) of about the same diameter (pencil width), I'm wondering if I can graft a branch to the MP-29 (trim off the ends and leaves) instead of just a bud to take advantage of this vigor and speed up the process? I've seen this done elsewhere but the rootstock was cut clear through pretty low and the graft was attached near the cut like you would a chip-bud graft only with additional wrapping support. It gives multiple buds a chance to grow.
Would something like that be possible WITHOUT completely cutting off the top of my MP-29 plant in case it doesn't work? In other words, could I treat the rootstock like chip-bud grafting (keep some leaves above the graft to keep juices flowing until the graft takes off)? I figure if I can graft a branch instead of a bud, it would help the peach get established sooner. But I don't want to lose most of my healthiest MP-29 if it fails. I would greatly appreciate your input! Thank you.
Great close up camera shots, I think I'll try it. TYVM.
Im a geography student and I had this in my book ,im surely not forgetting this technique now
From one Jaime to another, I always appreciate and love your videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for sharing this technique. With the help of your instructions, I am looking forward to trying this.
This is incredibly valuable information. This dude is clearly a master.
A Sea of Knowledge, thank you again.
Miss amal you from any city in libya
I from misrata and u
Your videos are exceptional , Planters like me have a lot to learn from you.
Nice informative video keep it more power to your chanel. Watching from Philippines 👍
Fantastic as always. Thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for the comment.
Unbelievable technic love your videos well done 👍🏽👌🏼🇦🇺
The best video on budding. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. GOD Bless you!
Wow !
Excellent ! Clear visuals, precise explanation ... BEST VIDEO IN MANY MANY YEARS !
👍👌🙏
Great job .simple to do it. Thanks for share your knowledge.
New follower love it thank you for the time 😍
incredably clear and understandable,thankyou
Thank you, very informative and excellently presented.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Great video thank you again for sharing
If school was like this I would have stayed awake a lot more. :D
You're too kind, Jeff. Glad you find the videos useful and entertaining. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura I am moving to a new home in a while and plan to have fruit trees and a whole produce garden, so your videos are a gold mine to me right now. :D
Brilliant Sir,Thanks
Bravo svaka čast , respect 👏👍🇷🇸
I have tried a few of your grafts and all have taken thank you for your video.
You are very welcome! I am glad the videos helped. Good luck with your plants.
So informative. Thank you!!!!
Sempre um prazer de receber um novo video,e aprender mais um pouco.obrigado.
Ainda bem que o video foi útil. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial.
Well done. Good camera work! Your English is impeccable! Thank you,
Thank you for very informative videos, I enjoy your work. God bless you my friend
Thanks for make this video.I'm from Bangladesh. In my country I never get parafilm easily .So, I want to get a video to using another types of grafting tap without parafilm.
With this type of graft you can use plastic grafting tape to secure the grafts. You can even use transparent plastic bags cut into narrow strips. Just be sure to avoid covering the bud. If you do, be sure to cut the plastic in the bud area after a few weeks, just in case the bud starts growing. It won't be able to break free from the plastic as it does with the parafilm.
@@JSacadura Thanks brother to reply me.
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته
ماشاء الله
بارك الله فيكم 🌹🌹
great video. thank-you😄
Subscribed. Probably the best horticultural channel that I've watched in a while
You're too kind! Thanks for the nice comment and the support.
very good information , please keep it up
VERy GOOD TO THE POINT VIDIO THANKS
Good presentation for beginner
from 0.
Very useful ! ❤
excellent
Excellent tutorial. Many thanks.
Thank you for another excellent video. I think I will try one tomorrow morning.
Have fun! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for sharing
Nice job sir
excellent tutorial ! many thanks !
MERCI POUR TOUS, C'EST PASSIONNANT!
1:58 right sir. When i learn this method I cut my finger mene time. now i am good brider 😁😁😁
Very well explained
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Nice job .
شكرا لك .
من الجزائر .
Love it!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
شكرا
It’s winter here now in Australia, June July August, winter ends August then following Spring starts in September, October to November, summer is December to February-and Fall starts March a April May.
You are right, Edna. I have to mention that I am in the Northern Hemisphere when mentioning dates in the videos.
Very good idea's
Good video
tx 4 sharing your experience!
My pleasure! Thanks for the comment.
Très bonnes explications lentes ,à la portée des francophones, continuer merci 🕸et bonne année 2021👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
C’est un plaisir. Merci pour le commentaire.
Thank you
Amei este prosseço de enxerto. Vou fazer . Tomara que dê certo .
Boa sorte, Marta. Obrigado pelo comentário.
A very good video. Thank you very much! 😊
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
Very good video!
Great work.
Its very useful for me
Amazing as always, sir I do have a question ❓ Is aluminium foil covering needed to all types of grafting or only few choosen one, as I see you used aluminium foil in some cases and not in others...
Great video with great result👍🤝
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
Great job
Thank you for the instructions. I have a question regarding to choosing rootstock. What is best location on the tree for the scion to be graft on? Do I graft the scion on the main branch or new branch? Do I do it top tree or bottom tree?
If I'm grafting it in spring instead of summer or fall, would it be growing in the same year?
I know this is a year old, but in case you're wondering for next season-
I'm not too sure since I just started horticulture myself, but I know you want to graft the scion on a newer branch, one that's tender, about 1-2 years old. Not Hardwood! (I think some can work with Hardwood though but honestly I don't remember.) Also I think the time does affect it, as I'm learning it, late summer is the best time to propagate fruit trees by budding, I'm not sure for non-fruit trees. I think the location of the graft doesn't matter on the tree, as long as the branch is new and sporting new growth and has no disease. (The branch the guy uses in the video is the best example I can give)
Also if you're planning on starting your own rootstalk, my textbook said they are "usually started from seed in fall to the size of a pencil by July or August." By then the buds should be mature enough for use. After all, I haven't don't this myself yet, but I am planning to come Summer.
(If anyone would like to correct me let me know, I'm still learning too so any help would be good.)
Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge!
Could be possible for Master Sacadura to make a video about grape's grafting?
I unsuccessfully tried several times in Spring & Summer!
I will try again now in fall.
Great suggestion! I will add it to my list of ideas for next season grafting videos (its getting too cold to graft in my area).
@@JSacadura At first, thanks for your reply.
How cold is now in your area?
I'll be waiting for all your next season' videos!
I'm in zone 9a. Its getting chilly at night (below 50º F - 10ºC). So most fruit trees are starting to drop their leaves and reducing sap flow, so graft healing is very slow and might fail.
@@JSacadura Wow! I'm in zone 9a too! Also my vines are starting to drop their leaves... ...then, I can not graft until the next Spring.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
There is only one place I come to for anything grafting..
Good job sir
Excelente video, pero como una sugerencia seria bueno subtitular en español para la comunidad espano hablante.
?? Todos los vídeos del canal tienen subtítulos en español, incluso este. Es una cuestión de activar los subtítulos y elegir la lengua pretendida en las configuraciones del vídeo.
¿Cuál es más efectivo, con madera o la llena limpia sin madera?.
Sir please make videos on mango Grafting
Excellent instruction, as always. Do you think this would work on grapes?
Yes, definitively. Check my video on grafting grapes (ua-cam.com/video/XHvcreBnQYI/v-deo.html) where budding is one of the techniques used.
@@JSacadura hi ... Actually I did and I'm happy to tell you of great success in spring grafting.. I put nebbiolo buds on some established rooted vines. Some of them gave me several meters of growth in Niagara region Canada.
Nice vedio
¿Sirve que la rama del patrón sea del mismo año, osea joven y verde?.
Nice
Wonderful as always. Off the top of your head, can you name some excellent varieties that won't need more than 300 chill hours please.
You are referring to peaches, I presume. In North America you might find some of the cultivars mentioned in this article - homeguides.sfgate.com/low-chill-peach-trees-75882.html
In my orchard I have some low chill peaches and nectarines (like Lola or Victor ) but I believe they are only available in european dealers. These have very, very early bloom dates (has most low chill varieties do), so they are unsuitable in areas with late frosts. Artic Glo white nectarine, surprisingly, produced a decent crop this year. It requires 400--500 chill hours, and we probably had less than half of that, this past winter. Most peach trees with higher chill requirements didn't produce at all.
sir is there is any difference between budding or grafting in case of fruit quality,early fruiting etc..
so which is good for fruit tree grafting or budding?
The resulting plants will provide identical fruits. The grafting technique used (budding or grafting) has no influence in the fruit quality of the future tree.
@@JSacadura felling great to recive your valuable reply🙏
Plz elaborate late summer mean month in which it work best June July August etc thx
if the graft is successful in 2 or 3 weeks, do you have to break the petiole off?
Thank you very much for your information....very quiet, thoughtful, and helpful.
A question.....can I graft an edible pear tree onto a weeping pear tree (Pyrus salicifolia)?
Regards from New Zealand.
Obrigado por mais uma aula extraordinária. Queria saber se você tem experiência em cultivo de videira.
Tenho videiras de mesa para consumo próprio mas pouca disponibilidade para lhes dedicar a tenção que mereciam nesta área complicada (muita humidade ambiental) e, por isso, são raros os anos que tiro delas tudo o que poderiam produzir (tento evitar usar pesticidas ao máximo). De futuro, pode ser que surjam alguns videos sobre o tema.
Thank you for your videos Sir. when would be the best season for T-Budding Peaches to Apricot?
I wonder will this work on my blueberry bushes..
Top demais obrigado.
Em pêssego eu faço por placage da muito certo
What variety of peach did you show at the end, the red one, at 10:30?
I have an established espalier apple tree, with1 or 2 foot long bare spots on the cordons, that I'd like to bud graft onto, to fill the branch out. You said after the graft takes, to always cut off all the the growth ahead of the graft, but that would mean cutting off my cordon. Would it be ok to just let the graft take and grow into a fruiting spur and not cut off the growth ahead of the graft? I want to do 2 or 3 on each of the 6 variety branches.
Would this technique work for apple and kiwi trees in late summer or autumn
Hola ! Se puede aplicar esta tecnica de injerto en higueras? Por su respuesta gracias.
Si, también funciona en higueras. El primero vídeo en mi canal - ua-cam.com/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/v-deo.html - ejemplifica esta técnica. De cualquier forma prefiero las técnicas utilizadas en este vídeo más reciente - ua-cam.com/video/NBV9OIfQlaY/v-deo.html
👌👌👌👍🙏
Impecável! 👌 Obrigado!
Sir what is the best method for grafting jackfruit plant?
This is so helpful. I do have a question. It's early Nov. in NC. Is that too late to graft a persimmon tree?