Spot on. The heritage guys have been saying this for years. What is also important with using lime is it's highly sustainable. Lime isn't expensive if you get the correct product.
in germany we got lime cement render, but its gotten really expensive sadly. 3 years ago it was like 8 bucks for 40kg and now it jumped up to nearly 16 its called hagalith ff. i really love to use it on the inside in combination with silicate paint which allows the whole wall to diffuse moisture, makes for a fantastic air quality in the room
I'm doing more and more lime systems here in SW UK. External Lime Render, internal from Haired lime , right upto putty, top top coat. Then silicate paint/Clay Paint. Lime compatible. Earthborn. Depends where you shop, depends on the name. Or even a bit of Marmorino to finish off.The material that's been around for 1000's of yrs. Best gear I've ever used. Spreading 30+ . ✌️
Great breakdown video.👍 I'm looking at using OCDC to go over house pebble dash. I fancied trying the thin silicone colour render over the top instead of krend. Witch would you recommend/ suggest? I never liked applying krend to the scratch it off and make a mess. Your silicone thin coat looked easy and very good. Thanks. Dan
Hi Blaine. Regarding OCR render, can you add waterproofer to the mix, such as Sika-1? I am going to be rendering internal walls that have been subject to damp. Thanks for the videos and really helpful content 👍🏻👍🏻
@@PlasteringForBeginners nice mate I’ve got one but never use it , I’ve only ever used it for catching stones when I’m pebble dashing lol I brought mine from selcos 👍🏻
Noticed on the gable using ocr you'd split it with a stop bead for first coat but seemed to render over the stop bead on the 2nd coat. Is this as you were working alone and to manage the areas. Once completed are the stop beads fully hidden or seen slightly. 👍 for another great video and content blaine
I do the same and often on larger flank walls that need an expansion joint. You will see the bead , but if you have fitted it correctly it should be plumb to the rest of the beads and barely visible. They can also be painted so not an issue. If you are lining up more than two beads use stringline and make sure everything is straight and level.
Ok mate great video thanks again. Ocr if I was to put scratch on 1 day & didnt want to 2nd coat that day & come back next day would I need to sbr the scratch coat or add waterproofer for the top coat to go on the next day thanks
Hold up! You can put silicone thin coat on block work, I thought it was only for timber frame, so do you put a scratch cost on first to build up the level then put the thin coat on?
Have you seen the silicone render cracking I used it and a few places I am using it I am seeing crack appear, is there anything you would recommend. I also inserted the mesh after the first layer.
Hi Iwas a plasterer for 50 years always used sand and cement render, it dosen't matter how breathable the other mixes are once it is painted with 2 coats of paint it is 99% of the time no longer breathable.
I contacted Weber technical support and they suggested it can’t be used as a final finish and is best used as a base coat with their finish coat…..I can’t see why it can’t be used as a finish coat but it’s got me bothered as I want to render some chimneys with OCR and paint later….oh they also said they don’t guarantee OCR can be painted over?? Weird.. Can you clarify if it’s fine as a finish coat and can be painted with a normal water based exterior paint? Cheers fella!
I’ve used it for the past year and I’ve never had any issues. They probably just want you to buy the top coat. You don’t get a guarantee when you mix your own sand cement anyway so the conditions and risk is the same. It’s floats and sponges well and sets solid. I’m happy with that 👍
Having worked with all these mixes, I agree with everything in this video. However, rendering that perfect brick wall is a crime. Bricks will last forever.May need repointing every 50 or so years .Why cover it with render? Also,for timber frame. Don't just render over it. Put external insulation first.Then render with ocr ,then silicone primer and render.
Anyone here know if you can pebble dash silicone render? Doing a rimber framed extension to a classic 1930's pebbledashed/roughcast house and wondered if i could achieve the same finish with a silicone system? I know they offer a textured finish but it dkesnt seem as pronounced.
Great video Blain Ive recently had an extension built that has been sand and cement rendered & it has multiple hairline cracks. Im looking at doing the original block built 50s ex council house myself. Ive removed most of the old scat finish and its a pretty smooth type of concrete block.a lot of which has pretty flakey mortar joints. My plan was to use the mesh ive seen you use and hit in small sections to get it scratched up and apply the top coat at a later date.would this be ok with OCR? Ive never rendered anything before so didn’t want to do it under to much presure. I can skim to a pretty high standard but never had a go rendering. Would you recommend anything in particular to apply to the block work or just wet down? Thanks Andy
It's not so much breathability. Towels are breathable but they hold moisture. It's the capillarity necessary for older buildings. It's the minute bridging network which is intrinsic to lime mortar. The limier the better. It's why I always used quicklime. It's unbelievably workable and stick like shit. I'm guessing what you were using is NHL. A lot of us hate that because it doesn't stick well and doesn't hav a lot of life in it.
thank you so much for explaining all the pros and cons for each type - i found it quite confusing until watching your video!
Many thanks. I was considering sand/cement on brickwork for a small project. Now you've educated me on OCR.
I use lime render and baumit and used to natural building technology now in Eastbourne you are doing a good job
Spot on. The heritage guys have been saying this for years. What is also important with using lime is it's highly sustainable. Lime isn't expensive if you get the correct product.
in germany we got lime cement render, but its gotten really expensive sadly. 3 years ago it was like 8 bucks for 40kg and now it jumped up to nearly 16 its called hagalith ff.
i really love to use it on the inside in combination with silicate paint which allows the whole wall to diffuse moisture, makes for a fantastic air quality in the room
I'm doing more and more lime systems here in SW UK. External Lime Render, internal from Haired lime , right upto putty, top top coat. Then silicate paint/Clay Paint. Lime compatible. Earthborn. Depends where you shop, depends on the name. Or even a bit of Marmorino to finish off.The material that's been around for 1000's of yrs. Best gear I've ever used. Spreading 30+ . ✌️
Very true my friend!
Regardless of the system the main problem is cowboy builders!
Great video. Very informative. Nice to see a pro that knows the value of lime render.
Thank you matey!!
OG Render Professor! 💯 Thanks for the good Knowledge bruda!☝️
Ha cheers pal!
As usual very educational video would love to spend a few days with you learning this stuff thanks again
Brilliant! Always so helpful.
You make my working life so much easier in this area.
Really appreciate you knowledge and yiu expertise.
That’s great to hear my friend - thank you for watching. It means a lot!
Great breakdown video.👍
I'm looking at using OCDC to go over house pebble dash. I fancied trying the thin silicone colour render over the top instead of krend. Witch would you recommend/ suggest?
I never liked applying krend to the scratch it off and make a mess. Your silicone thin coat looked easy and very good.
Thanks.
Dan
Hi Blaine. Regarding OCR render, can you add waterproofer to the mix, such as Sika-1?
I am going to be rendering internal walls that have been subject to damp. Thanks for the videos and really helpful content 👍🏻👍🏻
what do you think of weber lime mix??
Did a garden wall and waited yonks for it to go off.... Scratched and will have to hit it tomorrow.
What additive would tou add to there sand cement render? Waterproofer and feb?
Can you use a bag render for a fireplace? James
Great video mate.
how many bags does that plasters bath take ?
About 9/10 bags pal - it’s a beast!
@@PlasteringForBeginners nice mate I’ve got one but never use it , I’ve only ever used it for catching stones when I’m pebble dashing lol I brought mine from selcos 👍🏻
Can’t beat silicone render👍awesome stuff.!
It’s great stuff!
Love the vid mate I'm a webber lover after watching this
Ha good man. It’s good great 👍
Was waiting for this one top content 👍🏻
Cheers mate
Very nice...thanks!
Great video
Noticed on the gable using ocr you'd split it with a stop bead for first coat but seemed to render over the stop bead on the 2nd coat. Is this as you were working alone and to manage the areas. Once completed are the stop beads fully hidden or seen slightly. 👍 for another great video and content blaine
I do the same and often on larger flank walls that need an expansion joint. You will see the bead , but if you have fitted it correctly it should be plumb to the rest of the beads and barely visible. They can also be painted so not an issue.
If you are lining up more than two beads use stringline and make sure everything is straight and level.
He didn’t want the other side Rendering. It stopped there and the rest of the building was face brickwork 👍
Ok mate great video thanks again. Ocr if I was to put scratch on 1 day & didnt want to 2nd coat that day & come back next day would I need to sbr the scratch coat or add waterproofer for the top coat to go on the next day thanks
Great video thank you
Hold up! You can put silicone thin coat on block work, I thought it was only for timber frame, so do you put a scratch cost on first to build up the level then put the thin coat on?
Another great video mate 👍
Cheers pal
Brilliant video mate. As usual 👍🏻
Thank you mate!!
How many coats of render do you need for internal walls buddy
Have you seen the silicone render cracking I used it and a few places I am using it I am seeing crack appear, is there anything you would recommend. I also inserted the mesh after the first layer.
I haven’t mate. Which systems did you use and on what background??
Hey Blaine, another quality vid, Can u use ocr over a sand cement scratch coat?
You can but I wouldn’t personally. I think it’s too risky
Blaine, are there applications for the OCR or silicone render for internal applications like showers, or in tanking basements?
Typically externally mate
Have you worked out the cost difference between sand & cement and OCR
Tony 👍
Hi Iwas a plasterer for 50 years always used sand and cement render, it dosen't matter how breathable the other mixes are once it is painted with 2 coats of paint it is 99% of the time no longer breathable.
I contacted Weber technical support and they suggested it can’t be used as a final finish and is best used as a base coat with their finish coat…..I can’t see why it can’t be used as a finish coat but it’s got me bothered as I want to render some chimneys with OCR and paint later….oh they also said they don’t guarantee OCR can be painted over?? Weird..
Can you clarify if it’s fine as a finish coat and can be painted with a normal water based exterior paint? Cheers fella!
I’ve used it for the past year and I’ve never had any issues. They probably just want you to buy the top coat. You don’t get a guarantee when you mix your own sand cement anyway so the conditions and risk is the same.
It’s floats and sponges well and sets solid. I’m happy with that 👍
Having worked with all these mixes, I agree with everything in this video.
However, rendering that perfect brick wall is a crime. Bricks will last forever.May need repointing every 50 or so years .Why cover it with render?
Also,for timber frame. Don't just render over it. Put external insulation first.Then render with ocr ,then silicone primer and render.
Why is it called one coat render .when you give it two ?
Top man
👍👍
Excellent thanks 😊
Thank you!
Anyone here know if you can pebble dash silicone render? Doing a rimber framed extension to a classic 1930's pebbledashed/roughcast house and wondered if i could achieve the same finish with a silicone system? I know they offer a textured finish but it dkesnt seem as pronounced.
They do a dash reciver
Great video Blain
Ive recently had an extension built that has been sand and cement rendered & it has multiple hairline cracks.
Im looking at doing the original block built 50s ex council house myself.
Ive removed most of the old scat finish and its a pretty smooth type of concrete block.a lot of which has pretty flakey mortar joints.
My plan was to use the mesh ive seen you use and hit in small sections to get it scratched up and apply the top coat at a later date.would this be ok with OCR?
Ive never rendered anything before so didn’t want to do it under to much presure.
I can skim to a pretty high standard but never had a go rendering.
Would you recommend anything in particular to apply to the block work or just wet down?
Thanks Andy
Дякую за майстер клас!
👍👍👍
Like render has similar rules to owning a gremlin 😀
Can we cement on the existing brick wall to cover up minor cracks?
👍👍
👍👍
Sand cement render is a pain in the ass. It cracks, even if you’ve done it all correct. I hate rendering because of it.
Excellent video ❤
thanks
👍👍
It's not so much breathability. Towels are breathable but they hold moisture. It's the capillarity necessary for older buildings. It's the minute bridging network which is intrinsic to lime mortar. The limier the better. It's why I always used quicklime. It's unbelievably workable and stick like shit. I'm guessing what you were using is NHL. A lot of us hate that because it doesn't stick well and doesn't hav a lot of life in it.
Rendering over nice brickwork should be made a crime punishable by death.
Haha I love this. Seems a tad harsh but i like it 😂
k rend is far better .for all rendering aspects
You've always got to consider capillarity on older buildings. Far as I know, K rend doesn't have the necessary porosity.
@@michaeljamesdesign no very true..not much flex at all
Ocr is best 💩 ever
👍👍👍