Very well explained... Small detail... Fz6 needs 2,5L without oil filter Change. When you Change the oil filter, it really needs 2,8L. Says so in the owner's manual.
Great vid. Pro tip: to the future users of FZ6 I recommend using Valvoline SynPower 10W40 oil or Motul, but 7100 (both are full-synthetic), 5100 is a semi-synthetic ester oil. If you want your clutch run smooth like butter go for a full synth oil, especially in FZ6, where clutch is very sensitive and can be pretty loud, soaked with semi-synthethic oil
Just did my oil change and the only pice of info I can add is this. Sometimes the filter is torqued too tight and removing the front sprocket plastic guard can make getting an oil filter cap wrench on to the filter a lot easier. And to get a filter with a bolt like the K&N filter so next time its a lot easier. The K&N takes a 19mm.
manual says to run the bike to operating temp then shut off for a couple mins for the oil to go down then check the oil while the bike is standing straight youre doing it wrong
Ya the manual does say that. The point of running the bike after draining it is to fill the new oil filter and oil passages. Filling the emptied passages does not take the several minutes that it would take to get the bike up to temperature. The reason I say to only run the bike for 20-30 seconds before rechecking the oil is that you do not want to run the engine for several minutes if you have inaccurately measured the amount of oil poured in. This way you prevent running your bike on a low oil level and are able to check it sooner. I've never had an issue with this method, and I believe it is a safer method. Also, always check your oil level the next day after a real ride to confirm the oil level is right. Thanks for the feedback.
![How-To: Oil Change; 2004-2009 Yamaha FZ6 [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tErbck3Z8Vk/mqdefault.jpg)
![How-To: Oil Change; 2004-2009 Yamaha FZ6 [DIY]](/img/tr.png)
Very well explained... Small detail... Fz6 needs 2,5L without oil filter Change.
When you Change the oil filter, it really needs 2,8L. Says so in the owner's manual.
Great vid. Pro tip: to the future users of FZ6 I recommend using Valvoline SynPower 10W40 oil or Motul, but 7100 (both are full-synthetic), 5100 is a semi-synthetic ester oil. If you want your clutch run smooth like butter go for a full synth oil, especially in FZ6, where clutch is very sensitive and can be pretty loud, soaked with semi-synthethic oil
Good tip! Thanks 👍
I use 300V ,some call it overkill but it's still a high revving motor and want the best for it
This video is so helpful, thank you!
You’re welcome!
Anyone know that size that drain bolt is? I've scoured the internet, but can't find it. I think it is a 14mm x 1.5mm....is that right? Thanks!
Coil and fuel pump seal video plz
I go with motul 5100 also as I Change oil each 5000km. Some fz6 owner's also recomend going with a 10w50 oil.
Just did my oil change and the only pice of info I can add is this. Sometimes the filter is torqued too tight and removing the front sprocket plastic guard can make getting an oil filter cap wrench on to the filter a lot easier. And to get a filter with a bolt like the K&N filter so next time its a lot easier. The K&N takes a 19mm.
Good added tip!
Use a k&n oil filter with the nut on the end so removal is a snap unlike the Yamaha filter..
Informative!! Love It
Good editing quality, top notch. Any reason to avoid getting oil on the exhaust in particular? Aside from the obvious sloppiness
No other reason really, just a mess to clean up.
What are you spraying on the bike randomly?
Some brake cleaner to clean up the oil
Thanks for the vid. I just picked up one. Have you tried the motul 300v oil?
Let me know how it goes
@ninorandazzo844 already got rid of it ran good but I did have mutiple tensioners fail but not completely lots of clatter.
Would this be relatively same process for an 08 fz6?
Yes should be the exact same for all FZ6 of the same generation. S1 and S2
Thx 👍👍
Awesome video 👍🏾💯🏍
Thank you!
Torque specs:
Filter, 17 Nm - 12 ft lb
Drain bolt, 43 Nm - 31 ft lb
I'm gonna use a piece of cardboard to keep oil off exhaust, 2 seconds later oil filter drips all over exhaust. Lol
manual says to run the bike to operating temp then shut off for a couple mins for the oil to go down then check the oil while the bike is standing straight youre doing it wrong
Ya the manual does say that. The point of running the bike after draining it is to fill the new oil filter and oil passages. Filling the emptied passages does not take the several minutes that it would take to get the bike up to temperature. The reason I say to only run the bike for 20-30 seconds before rechecking the oil is that you do not want to run the engine for several minutes if you have inaccurately measured the amount of oil poured in. This way you prevent running your bike on a low oil level and are able to check it sooner. I've never had an issue with this method, and I believe it is a safer method. Also, always check your oil level the next day after a real ride to confirm the oil level is right. Thanks for the feedback.
@@Calvinm also, I think that it would be better to drain the oil with the bike on the side stand instead of the center stand :)