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How to Change Yamaha FZ6 Clutch
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- In this video I will show you how to fix clutch slip and how to replace the clutch discs in a 2007 Yamaha FZ6. This job turned out to be not what I expected. I thought I would find roasted friction discs but instead I think my clutch lever wasn't set right which lead to my slipping clutch.
Torque specs:
Clutch cover plate bolts = 8.7 ft-lbs
Pressure plate spring bolts = 5.8 ft-lbs
Clutch spring length specs, limit = 52.3mm, minimum = 54.0, free length = 55.0
Remember to always soak new clutch plates for a couple hours in clean motorcycle engine oil before installing new clutch plates. Let me know in the comments down below what kind of content you guys would like to see on the FZ6 or if there is anything you think I missed in this video! Thanks for watching!
Follow me on instagram @freeheadgasket
Good quality and walkthrough couldn't ask for a better video,keep on cranking out fz6 videos ,it helps a ton!
👍🏽👍🏽You're video's are very helpful,gives me confidence to try and learn
Great videos man, I hope you keep making them! Well spoken and informative, showing everything you do. I got the same bike about year ago now, wanting to do everything I can myself to keep it affordable.
Thank you! The FZ6 is a very accessible bike to work on. I hope you feel comfortable taking on the service jobs after watching some of the videos 👍
@@Calvinm I certainly would not feel comfortable without your videos. With them, it definitely feels doable. Thanks again!
Hi Calvin, it's me again, i haven't seen this video so i haven't told you about this. But the most common problem with the clutch, it's not the clutch disks wear, they can be used A LONG TIME, i have more than 100.000 Kms with my bike still on my stock OEM clutch disks, but... i have faced this problem.
What i found is the problem is two fold,:
1 With time, the clutch springs being heated again and again, starts to lose elastic properties, they start to give less and less pressure with temperature, so they start to fail in having enough pressure to move the bike.
2 The steel separator disks they get grinded by the clutch disks by regular use, it's normal, so they start to be more and more slippery, so they would need more pressure from the springs to work! and the springs are already failing so, you have another problem. Steels slippery (glazed) and low power clutch springs.
The solution for this is to change only the springs and with paper sand deglaze the separators, you can still use them and use your clutch disks.
I have done this to my bike in about 50.000km and again about the 100.000 mark... and still running strong.
That is why this issue is a mystery, because the spring problem is only noticeable when the springs are HOT and you measure the pressure (K - Hooke's Law constant). You will find them, very soft.
I even change the springs in a Kawasaki Z1000 from a friend, without even deglazing, and that works like a charm.
Thanks for all the detailed insights! I’ve heard about people deglazing the steel discs and having good success with that, seems like logical solution. The fatigued springs added into the mix certainly doesn’t help
So what grit sandpaper should be used to deglaze? and should I get oem springs or barnett?
@@djlancer88The OEM springs works ok, i ASSUME that barnett will surpass OEM specs but... that is something that can;t be knows, so i would go with the OEM. Regarding sand paper, you need a rough one for the steels ad they beneffit from the exdt ra groving for grip.
Super helpful and great presentation!
Luca Herman thank you! 👍
Very helpful! Thanks for your video's!
You’re welcome! Glad it helped you.
My clutch plates stuck together after sitting for too long so I decided to take it apart and put it back together with all the plates in the correct order and the springs torqued to spec. For some reason, when I put the cover back on to test the pull lever, the pressure plate and the lever do not budge at all, as if the clutch is super tight or something is blocking it. I've removed the pressure plate and reinstalled it twice and I can't figure it out.
Great Video my friend...!! everything in your channel is really helpfull. You can make also a video to explain that there is also an adjudgment about clutch in the middle of our bike...you should put out the air filter first to fix this.
Thank you, glad you enjoy the videos! I can look into that clutch cable adjustment.
hey brother, hate to bother but could you do a video on adjusting idle rpm? cuz my 2007 fz6 rides and starts fine but if i rev like my boys do with their bikes when the rpms drop back down it dies
Hey Cesar! Ya I can look into that and make a video for you :)
Great video as always 💯 ever seen a modified cover that's clear for these bikes like others that are around?
I haven’t seen a clear cover. That would be cool though!
Hi Calvin, I checked my FZ6 clutch today. After reinstalling everything like it was before. My lever is extreme loose and the clutch is not working. The triangle and dot of the housing are aligned. I triple checked the cable but I think maybe I got something wrong with the housing. I am not sure how to install the housing so the clutch will work again :(
I fixed it! The trick is that the arrow and the dot are in line when pushing the lower black clutch cable holder forward. There should be no space to move forward and the arrow and dot are in line. It can be easily done when removing the silver spring which push the cable holder back. So what I did wrong first was that when the cable holder is pushed back the arrow and dot are in line. This is wrong and I did not find this information easily.
@@jpameli so the dot is only supposed to be lined up when pressing the clutch or when sitting with no pressure
Hi Calvin, i habe bought a FZ6 2008 but this had just 5 gears. How is that possible? Thank you for your Videos
Loving the fz6 vids, keep it up brother! Any common issues people should be on the lookout for/inspect on a used fz6? Seems like these bikes are pretty hardy overall.
Thanks Ryan! I wouldn't say the FZ6 has any glaring flaws. There is one maintenance service done around 40,000 km's that is pricy because it involves adjusting the valve lash but if that has been serviced already or you do it yourself there isn't anything super specific to the FZ6 to look out for. I have just over 60,000 km's on mine and it's been reliable.
@@Calvinm about 400$ here in Southern Ontario at 40,000kms. The only real issue I've ever had was the automatic cam chain tensioner went for a dump. They are prone to failure. Swapped it out for a manual one for about 40$. Been fine ever since.
Hey Calvin
Great vids - please keep them coming
Wondering if you ever dealt with and fixed the shoulders in the mirror problem. I was hoping to add extensions to the mirrors or longer stems to push the mirrors out a little for better visibility. Found some poly extensions but it appears they are no-longer available. Any ideas?
Cheers
Peter
Is that knob regulation thing On The leaver aftermarket or original one ? It is way better than on my s1
Enjoying your videos. Subjects well explained and very helpful for a hobbyist. Great job. Have already referred your channel to others.
Couple of questions if you don't mind.
Installed a new clutch (springs, metal plates and friction plates) and a new clutch cable. on my 2006 FZ6. All OEM Yamaha. Followed the manual's instructions that stated that once the push rod is installed correctly, the triangle and dot on the push lever axle and assembly will roughly line up. Sure enough (after a lengthy struggle with the push rod) I finally got it to work.
My questions are:
(1) Can I assume that if I have the allignment (axle rotated clockwise approximately 90 degrees as I closed the clutch cover), that the push rod is installed correctly?
(2) Is it possible to install the clutch cover with the push rod not installed in the clutch cover cavity? i.e. would there be space for that?
(3) When I push the spring-loaded push lever assembly clockwise to activate the push rod, it can be easily rotated by hand. It appears as if the only resistance comes from the spring holding the assembly. Does that make sense?
(4) With the present configuration, I adjusted the clutch cable in the middle expecting it to take up a lot of slack but it still requires a considerable amount of adjustment at the clutch lever. Does this make sense? The part number has been verified.
(5) Finally, I noticed in your video that you actually removed the axle arm. Is that a better way to take up any slack? i.e. gives you the ability to rotate the axle counter clockwise a little so that the allignment marks don't allign and then adjust the cable to bring the triangle and dot marks into allignment? Hopefully that made sense.
Thanks a million for your insight
Peter
Hi Peter, glad you're enjoying the videos. I'll do my best to answer your questions.
1) yes that sounds correct.
2) I think it is possible to do but I don't know why you would want to. You would need the axel in the clutch cover to have a working clutch...
3)Yes that makes sense, I think the external spring is other there to relieve the clutch of any pressure from a lingering finger on the clutch lever.
4)I haven't messed around with adjusting the clutch cable housing length. I would try centring the adjustment at the lever then adjusting the cable housing length to it's sweet spot so that you have a usable range of adjustment at the clutch lever.
5) I found removing the axel arm the best way to nail the adjustment. For a while in the video I couldn't decide which spline the arm should be aligned on so I went back and forth trying to find the happy spot that balance adjustment range at the clutch lever and alignment of the arrow and dot. Ultimately as seen in the video, when the clutch is completely out 6:04 the dot is a hair to the right of the triangle.
Hope this helps, there is lots of room for adjustment with the clutch setup, it might just take some time trying different alignments of the axel arm, cable housing length and lever adjustment. Best of luck!
Can you put a hydronic clutch on a 2007 FZ6? Thanks!
i lowkey felt like we were detectives figuring put a mystery
😂😂😂
lol
How come my Fazer 600 has 74 HP instead of regular 9#? Is this something I can change with that gas plate that people change?
After some reading about this it looks like there is a throttle limiter that can be ground down or removed. Have a look at this video, although it's not in english...
ua-cam.com/video/XQe7HaG26-0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ashkinist
Also check out this thread:
www.600riders.com/threads/fz6-s-fazer-78-hp-to-98-hp-re-set.46722/
Best of luck!
@@Calvinm Yeah thanks, this is apparently what I found as well. It's weird seeing a plate being pulled can alter the power so much, I guess it doesn't fully open the throttle or something.
I love your clips, FZ6 is my first bike and I want to customize it and your videos help a ton with maintenance.
Awesome, I hope you enjoy the bike and get to experience it's full potential. Glad the videos help 👍
Awesome!!!
So i changed my clutch today, put new springs in and when i press my clutch in on the leaver it is so so hard to do, im not sure why, is it somthing to do with the springs? Ive done the bolts up hand tight as i dont have a torque wrench? Are the bolts on the springs meant to be done up until they stop, then put a torque wrench on them? Help please
Ya if you've upgraded to aftermarket springs that are stiffer than stock the lever pull will require more effort. The springs are supposed to be tightened until they stop. Once they snug up you can torque them to the spec if you had a torque wrench. The bolts don't need much torque but you don't want them coming loose inside the engine!
@@Calvinm right so when theyre snug it takes 2 hands to pull the clutch leaver in which i thought is wrong, So ive unwound them 2 turns from snug and the clutch is back to where it was before, i have used thread lock so they dont come lose? I havent started it yet tho i have a 2004 yamaha fz6?
@@tom84835 Ya the lever will be easier to pull when the bolts are loosen because they are applying less pressure onto the pressure plate... which you don't want. I would source some stock springs and tighten them to spec. You don't really need stronger springs unless the bike is making lots more power for some reason. It's the same theory as a car's manual transmission, more clamping force on the pressure plate is for transferring greater torque.
Did you use any thread lock on the case cover screws?
I did not. Just torqued.
Great video, may i ask for your advice ? I own the same model as you and my clutch doesn't slip at all. The "clutch point" where the gear starts to push the bike is very very short. I've already changed the clutch cable and it didn't change that behavior. Do you think that changing the discs may improve that ? Like with new springs it may makes the "clutch point" longer? Thanks
I don't think changing the discs would change your engagement point. It woudn't hurt to make sure your clutch discs are within thickness spec and your springs haven't compressed. If the discs and springs check out ok then I would fiddle with the adjustment at the handle bar and the cable housing length adjustment in the middle of the cable. Best of luck!
Some people use an actuator arm off an MT -07 to give a longer friction zone
It can be your clutch cable with too much tension
Try to see that
Why would low first gear be so jumpy on my fz6? Once I get into and out of second they're all smooth, but first is very jerky.
I’m having the same issue, any luck?
@@superimpala4791 I believe its just a yamaha fz6 thing, or a 600 inline four thing
@@Bigburt- broke my clutch cable last night. Found the issue doing 45
@@superimpala4791 oh fuck hope youre good, a new clutch cable is such a drastic improvement you'll be happy it broke
@@Bigburt- yea, I’m okay, kick stand snapped, cable snapped, had to call a tow truck and lightly low sided it but other than that my wallet hurts
✌️😉
OIL!
Always remember!!... once these sports machine begin to give trouble...they MUST be replaced not repaired.
spanish please!!!
Who tf are you?