Self Cleaning Heater - Veg Oil Fuel - Fuel Additives - UPDATE Video.
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- Daves video - • Heater Tweaker: Dual F...
EXL Canada Lubricants - www.exlcanada.com/
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Actual Description: I have a few projects on the go, but don't have a video ready to publish, so I thought I would make an update video, talking about some of what I'm working on.
While I am really excited about the technical side of the new WMO burning heater ("self cleaning") I feel like this veg oil mix test could be a real game changer for a LOT of people. The ability to have approximately 50% fuel savings is pretty awesome.... with zero modifications. - Авто та транспорт
I'm looking forward to seeing how the duel fuel controller that Dave sent you works out. #o7 to Dave for sending it to you.
It should make life a LOT easier and safer... no more drip feed, meaning that my heaters safety systems can be used while testing.
There seems to be a common theme of diesel heaters and guys named "Dave" doing really cool things....
Ya, this is awesome!
I have been running a diesel/sunflower oil/gas mix without problems during Corona when diesel was much more expensive than sunflower oil which has a price cap in Hungary.
I've heard running bud light in it works... Cheap also.
Good to hear. Do you mix the same or a similar ratio ? I'm curious to know how little diesel can be used and still not have issues.
I have heard from a LOT of people who have had issues... so I'm curious as to what the differences are.
HAHA.... Yes... but people might see you purchasing it and assume you are drinking it... Not a risk I'm willing to take.
Ps... I've never had a beer, Bud or otherwise, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have run 50% sunflower, 40% diesel and 10% gas 98 octane. My chainsaw, mower and generator all use 98 octane, I used what I had at hand. Start and stop on 100% diesel.
Wow, that dual fuel controller setup sounds pretty freaking sweet. Much easier than constantly changing out what is in a fuel tank.
Ugh sorry some people suck. I have really been enjoying your videos! I appreciate that you aren't over the top with things too 🙂
Thanks for the comment. I have been busy with other things, but have been able to test out my new control system, and it is awesome. It is a prototype and has some bugs, but still a million times better than what I was doing before.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I am excited to learn more about it! I bet some bugs are better than the fan just shutting off though!
Great Joel, your videos keep getting better and better thanks
Thanks ! Much appreciated.
Thanks for doing veg oil testing.I’ve been waiting for a while. I mix one litre of WVO with four litres of diesel to offset the cost of heating . I haven’t had any troubles so far
I have been running filtered used veg oil in a 50-50 mix for the last 3 months without any problems my exhaust passes through a sand battery kepps my workshop a nice 18 deg. Great videos thanks
Awesome. Based on my testing, you can probably get away with a lot more veg oil, and a lot less diesel... I am pulling my heater apart this morning to have a look... We will see how it looks after 4 litres of veg oil.... that will tell us something.
Good to hear ! If it has worked that long, it doesn't really matter what happens next, but I would love to see what your chamber looks like. If you get a month of burning and have to replace the chamber, at a 50% fuel savings, it's totally worth it !
@@sidknowles3467 I have had succes running 70% spent veg oil mixed with 30% diesel. It ran well for about 1 1/2 seasons, but at a certain point it became more difficult to start up. I chose to take it apart, and there was some carbon build-up in the burn chamber and the ignition chamber (with the mesh). After cleaning it, it has been running great again. Another great benefit is that the viscosity of the veg oil is a lot higher, and this reduces the ticking noise of the fuel pump dramatically.
Veggie Oil does work decent , But unless you can get is Used for free or near free, the price is crazy on it currently least here in the states. Right around $10 per gallon. Did a Veggie, Petrol, mix & even did with a bit of diesel. More less that is just Dirty Diesel fuel, but instead of motor oil its Veggie oil. I'm still using that External fuel pump driver setup I was talking about before. So far that seems to make everything much better, Having that Fuel control separate from air makes a world of difference.
Yeah... The price here is about $3.50 a litre $14 a gallon.
A LOT of people can get it for free... even new stuff somehow... many who I have talked to, and many more collect used stuff... they either have an arrangement with a restaurant, they spend some time hunting it down.
I can't wait to have my own fuel control.
Brilliant stuff mate! I ran 70/30 kero - very clean WVO for weeks with the exhaust going into a cast iron radiator. Eventually it clogged up. Upon dismantling it was very carboned up but also the radiator had a lot of water in it. ...so it could have been the fuel or restricted exhaust or a combo of the two. I find petrol a great thinner for WVO although kero seems almost as good and I guess safer to mess around with. Anyway, I too very much look forward to seeing how you get on. I can see fame and fortune coming your way if, no sorry, when you succeed!
Thanks for the comment and details !
The carbon indicates that it may have been due to restriction. I have had issues with carbon with very little exhaust restriction, this is why one of the first things I check now, is the CO levels. They are a good indication of what is happening.
I wish I had access to more veg oil, as I am using new stuff for my testing, and it is not at all cost effective. I would love to do more testing and see how little diesel and gas I could use, and still get a reasonable burn.
Haha... fame and fortune 👍... I can't wait. My new design has potential, but we will see how it actually performs.
@@loweredexpectations4927 IF clean combustion in a CDH can be compared to a 1980s diesel engine then 20:4 WVO -petrol works a treat in Northern Britain with no problem low temp quick start-ups...
@@EelingStudios Yeah, unfortunately, they are not really comparable. Fuel in the heater is not injected under pressure, it is not atomized and it is not burnt under compression. The combustion process is also not nearly as energetic or disruptive. These diesel heaters are basically a candle that has fuel delivered to the wick with a pump, and have a little extra combustion air supplied by a fan.
Hi biddy. I worked in a kitchen last uear which gave me a good solid supply of waste veg oil. And i used it in my heater on my boat for s good few weeks. it ran reslly well for a few days and then clogged up my heater. But after making a good filter set up and adding about a 20/80 mix with petrol its burned really well for months now. And its definitely hotter thrn diesel. And i dont seem to use as much fuel now either. Maybe a 29 percent reduction in fuel.
Thanks for the comment. Were you running it pure at first, when it clogged up ? When you say 20/80 is that 20% petrol or 20% veg oil?
That's awesome that you are having good results. If it is burning hotter, then I suppose you can run at a lower setting and use less. Either way, if you get a few months before having to clean, or replace a chamber, it is totally worth the savings !
Very interesting 👌
Thanks.
5:23 damn this drill thing you build is super genius damn..
Let's wait until I test it to see if it works before we start using words like "genius" haha... but thank you !
The emergency room nurses don't call him a genius at all.
@@kirkwalsh1932 Haha... nope, we are on a first name basis. They just call me Joel.
@@loweredexpectations4927 but how you come up with these ideas to make some new designs and turn them into reality is impressive
More excellent and fun content. Looking very forward to your next few videos. They may help me with my standard ( turn on and heater) when I use it next month in Wyoming. Elevation, 6,200 ft 😳😳 hahaa keep up the fun work!
Oh boy.... at that elevation, you will likely need some sort of elevation compensation, of you run it for very long. If your heater has an Alpine mode, I would definitely suggest using it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Sadly and ignorantly I purchased one that doesn't have Alpine mode or any means of adjustment. At the time, I even consider the air to fuel mixture at high elevation. Next one I purchase will have the bells and whistles. So, I am of course hoping you have a breakthrough on a product that may help keep the soot down. Gonna need it at least 2 months, hopefully I can keep it running. Fingers crossed 😳🤔😆
@@alanweisner2421 Most heaters will either grant you access to an engineering menu, have an alpine mode, or have automatic compensation. Red digits and a black plug at the controller are indications that you may have an engineering menu.
unfortunately, there are so many different ones, it is hard to keep up.
when i use vegetable oil I use wasted or new heat it to 140 F /60 c and if you do 1 gallon mix 250 ml of heet fuel treatment the yellow bottle not red bottle to 7 grams of lye add to the heated vegetable oil and stir for about 15 min and wait till the oil separate's and remove the glycerin and let remaining sit just to make sure all glycerin is out and I run mine without washing you may try washing if you like , I do find some times some glycerin residue is left in the bottom of the tank but it will wash out just like soap but have run my heater up to 15 hours per tank
Cool... I do really want to try this.... I would probably not do it on any large scale, but I think it's very interesting.
Be careful doing this to not accidentally getting nitrates in like bat poop you'll end up with nitroglycerin
@@patrickday4206 As cool as that would be... that would not be cool, haha.
I have watched a few videos on making NG, and I don't think it happens that easily though.... right ?
It would be awesome if you could just clean up the inside, and then the burn chamber was built in such a way that all residue, concentrated falling towards the exhaust opening. So the only maintenance you had to do, was disconnect the exhaust and shake it, so every residue falls out.
Cleaning it without disassembly is part of this idea... I may start testing today.
Due to the way the chamber needs to be designed to burn clean, some loose ash is almost certainly going to build up inside of the burn area / burn chamber. This could be cleaned as easily as either connecting an air compressor to the inlet, or connecting a vacuum to the exhaust (or both) If the ash is in fairly small pieces, and dry, it is almost like dust, and will come out very easily.
Nice!
Thanks !!
Hi Joel,
There certainly is airflow restriction in that passageway as it squares and necks down to the inlet for the intake side of the combustion fan, so it will be interesting to see if, with the reduced restriction it effectively burns leaner.... I'm guessing that's the main purpose for this test?
However, I would think that eliminating the intake pipe and pathway also makes the unit use conditioned air for combustion, wasting heated air in the process, and creating a negative pressure envelope in the conditioned space both of which are likely negatives. I suppose there's a small risk of fire too should the thing ever backfire.
I'm thinking that maybe it would be possible to instead of eliminating the separated combustion air intake, that it gets replaced with a smooth turn 90 of some sort that could be threaded into the housing -- maybe using a small engine exhaust fitting for this purpose,, or attached via a flange and gasket setup as some exhaust systems use. Next time I am at a wrecking yard, I'll look to see if there is a small 4 cylinder exhaust or intake setup that could be adapted for use for this. You, as a small engine repair person would be in a better position to know if there's an appropriately sized small engine smooth turn exhaust 90 that might work.
Just some musings on this. I hope they are helpful.
Cheers from Oregon USA,
Philip
P.S. How old is your gorgeous cat?
The purpose of the porting is to try to get as much air flow as possible (with the stock fan) for burning waste oil. To test this I will be using an air flow meter as well as checking the CO to see if it has actually changed the AFR.
Heated air should not be wasted, as the fan housing is the first part that the air hits, before passing over the exchanger. The hope is that it actually takes advantage of some of the air from the exchanger fan.
It's almost always helpful to heat other people's input and see things from a different perspective. I often come up with new ideas and solutions when explaining things / responding to comments.
Quasar is about 6 years old. We "adopted" him when he was 1. He had a badly broken leg and needed surgery. Megan works at a vet clinic so we took him in and fixed him up... about a year later, he broke his same leg again, haha... poor guy. Not nearly as bad the second time. Injury free for a few years now.
Ahhh, I was looking to create a circuit to split the injector pulse. He beat me to it…. That will make life easier to blend, and even program clean outs. Curious to see it now.
A few people have been working on similar things. He uses a TTGO screen and a few other doo dadds and it seems to work great. I have been testing with it, and it works awesome... but I have unfortunately, been way to busy to film or edit.
8:52 ... I'm hanging around for the nitromethane mix !!
That is something that I want to do really badly. I almost pulled the trigger on it several times, but $$ ... Maybe I need to start a GoFundMe haha...
@@loweredexpectations4927 ... Why not. I don't know if there's a minimum for a GoFundMe or not but $100 should be a good start. If you get good results then maybe people will give more.
It's either that or tell the wife she needs to pick up a second job
I'm waiting for the next test where you use a veg oil fueled heater to heat veg oil and cook some fries to go with the hotdog you cooked last time.
Haha... that would be pretty awesome.
This is awsome, I've been running veg oil all winter... well lack of one here anyways 😅... like I had stated before, with kerosene. My mix I've been using is 100% kerosene to light, then switch over to 60/40 veg/kerosene once I go out to the shed. I'm only running it for 3-6 hours at a time and only really used it about 2 dozen times so far. I haven't taken it apart yet so I'm super stoked to see what you found 😅 I'm lazy when it's cold
Good stuff ! I'm glad I'm finally getting around to testing this.
I wish I had easy access to waste veg oil, so that I could carry on with some longer term testing, and also check to see how much veg oil we could get away with before having problems.
I am currently running new veg oil, and it is pretty expensive here. I am also pretty lazy in the cold ! haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I'll tell you that it's is a lot less smelly to collect the waste veg oil in the deep cold when it's solidified lol don't know if I'll grab another bucket until the temp drops again lol but I buy kerosene in bulk instead of dyed diesel to also save on money. It's sold as home heating oil in my area
@@jonathantheunacceptable4259 How do you collect it when it is solidified ? With a shovel and a pail ? I have heard that kerosene is cheaper in some places... not where I am, but that's cool if you can get for less than diesel.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes 😂 with a shovel and a couple 5 gallon pails. I use to manage a a&w restaurant so I got a few contacts to raid grease bins lol
@@jonathantheunacceptable4259 SWEET ! ... I need to get a part time job at some fast food spots so I can get a hook up, haha.
@Lowered Expectations .. Have you tried K1 Kerosene ? It burns not only hotter but cleaner than Diesel fuel does.
If you haven't tried Kerosene please try it in place of the Diesel fuel . You could also try some Colemans lantern fuel Its just High Octane gasoline, which also burns Hot and Clean . Its pretty close to aviaition fuel (not Jet fuel) jet fuel is just a purer form of Kerosene. Aviation fuel is like 100-110 octane gasoline .
Also Kerosene would be much safer to add to the used oil .
The reason im asking these questions is I personally know someone who uses used motor oil ATF and Hydrolic oil. In a slightly modified oil furnace in his garage , the person is a mechanic so getting used oil is easy to get. He thins/dilutes the used oils with Kerosene . He just uses a standard Fuel oil tank to store the oils in .
I have not. Apparently it is the same cost as diesel, or cheaper, in some parts of the world, but where I am, it is 5X the price of diesel.
I will probably try Kerosene mix as a test in the future. I would also like to try with just gasoline and veg oil. I have access to AVGas, but it is 104LL and I don't like the idea of burning deaded fuel, so camp fuel is a better idea for sure.
Yeah, burning waste oils in a furnace is generally much more successful than in these heaters. These heaters are very small and stop working if you get much build up of ash or carbon. Anything that interrupts the flow of combustion air. In a waste oil furnace or furnace, there is generally a huge area for crud to build up, without causing any issues.
👍to other David.
So many Davids
@@loweredexpectations4927 The David always referred to him as the other David. Have fun with the new controller.
@@colinhamer6506 I don't think it's that David either... This is yet another David... David Lowe.
I our older diesel truck we have had good luck with
80% WMO filtered
15% diesel or kerosene
5% RUGas
-this mix thins the wmo and the RUG helps it light off
Just a thought.
I have tried all sorts of WMO mixes, including 50/50 diesel and 50/50 with gasoline, and none of them worked terribly well... the issue is that the diesel or gas flashes off, burns rapidly, and leaves the oil behind, smouldering away, as it does not get hot enough.
This is why I have gone through such effort to make a heater that has a nozzle that injects oil with air and also a chamber that is easier to clean. ATF and other products seem to burn much much cleaner than engine oil.
Using the air pump and injecting air and oil is genius.
Even on a completely stock heater burning diesel, just add the air pump.
@@mp5778 The standard heater set up works very well on diesel... when you tune then correctly, they make almost no CO, less than 12ppm, and make no carbon / soot to speak of.... I'm not sure that injecting diesel with air would have any benefits.
what do we have here sounds like good information
I sure hope so.
I think another key component of running multiple fuels is sustaining complete fuel mixing. I use an agitator pump in my larger tank to regularly circulate the fuel bottom to top to prevent both settling out and incomplete mixing when adding fuel oils. It's better to be over mixed than under, like with two stroke. I was also given a quantity of Shellite (refined liquid hydrocarbons) that I add in when using my 30% waste oil mix, partly to get rid of it, but I suspect it also generates a hotter and faster burn. I add about 1% from memory, or half a liter to a 50 liter tank. I'll know for sure once I run out.. lol
I use a kitchen stick blende r
I think this is probably much more necessary when mixing larger quantities for two reasons... 1. is that more volume requires more mixing and 2. that large volume is going to have a long time to settle out.
I mix up my batches, currently, in 4L (about a gallon) and it is all consumed within 12 hours or so. It also depends partly on what you are mixing together. Based on my several pails of waste oil, I suspect that gasoline stays suspended in oil fairly well, but a lot of other things will settle out.
Do you also use it for smoothies ? haha.
Only for smooth running!
A 28ml pump brings that 5kw heater to life nicely.
Haha... I bet. I'm doing the opposite and running it in alpine mode.
Bout time we got more shots of the real star.
@@kirkwalsh1932 Haha... His fans were asking for him, so I had no choice.
I think you may have brought this up before, the nitro additive make me wonder how this would run with oil mixed with nitromethane (glow fuel?), which supplies much of its own oxidizer... Hyperfuels has it by the gallon, and they have seasonal specials. Not exactly budget DIY, but Who knows how little you need.
That would be a very cool test... You should get some and try it. I don't know that it would be cost effective, but it would be fun ! haha.
If it will mix well with oil, then I suspect it would have to help... like you say, it is an oxidizer... most of it is mixed with alcohol or something else. It would be a very cool test. Cheapest I've been able to find it here is $104 a gallon.
@@loweredexpectations4927 During a Christmas sale with a coupon it was down to around $75 US, IIRC, but I didn't pull the trigger. I'd try it, but I don't ever intend to run oil through my heater. The nitro content can go up to 65% from what I understand.
People have been giving you spurious information and claiming it as proven fact? I'm shocked anyone would stoop so low !
Anyway, I just need to go refuel my fictitious diesel heater on it's usual 50/50 mix of filter coffee and unicorn milk. It works great as a heat source on my smelting furnace, and puts out about 3200'C of heat........ And about 100kg of thrust !. 🤣🤣🤣
HAHA... yes, hard to believe that "the internet" would speak anything but the truth.
I should give up on my projects and just get one of the heaters you have !
I wonder what would happen if you used a 2kw burn chamber in a 5 kw exchanger, but "over clock " it so that it still produced the same amount of heat as a 5kw. The idea being that you would have to turn up the combustion fan speed to force in more air (and fuel with it) and would increase overall air flow through the combustion chamber and blow the ash out the exhaust before it could build up on the walls. if that makes sense.. would have to have a separate fan to blow air over the exchanger though, as otherwise it would over cool being run at higher combustion fan speeds.
sort of like turbocharging a 1.0 engine to produce the same power as a 2.0 N/A engine. same amount of air / fuel consumed just pushed through the smaller engine quicker lol.
That would be interesting. The flange isn't the same, so you would have to cut two chambers apart and make one. The length of the 2kw is also much shorter, so you would likely get a lot less efficiency, due to the gasses escaping out of the chamber, before giving up all their heat.... so lengthening the tube would be a good idea.
As long as the air restriction wasn't too great, this could create enough air speed so that the ash was blown out of the chamber.
How well, or not did the ultrasonic cleaner do on the gauze fixed in behind the bottom of the burner tube ? Thanks again for beating to death the CDH run topic 😂🇨🇦
I haven't actually tried it because I am fairly certain that it won't' work well, haha. I probably shouldn't just assume that, but there is very little that breaks up carbon... I have heard some people planning on using acetone, but then never heard the results... so maybe they are no longer with us... that is a dangerous way to clean.
There is stuff called "combustion chamber cleaner" but it is expensive, and I'm not sure that you would want to fill your US cleaner with it as it is very smelly and may also be dangerous.
I should probably purposely get one dirty and then try pinesol... that stuff was crazy.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have after 2 years of moderate use, I have decided to not go below #3 pulse setting, to help prevent shooting up. I think I pick up some extra burn chambers, and then I can see if I can clean them up . Keep making Great videos 🇨🇦
@@stevecarlisle3323 It is a very good idea to have a few extra chambers on hand. I'm not sure what the long term effects or differences are between running on high or low, but the temp of the burn area is actually higher at med than it is at high, due to the lower air speed / air cooling effect. Or at least it was on my heater when I tested it last winter... I had a probe on the outside of the chamber where the fuel enters and it was consistently cooler on high.
Used refined vegetable oil isn't too problematic to burn, if heated up enough - unrefinded works too, but always contain some percentage of plant gunk, which loves to clog filters - many people have burnt many liters of vegetable oil directly via their Diesel engines for decades now - just ended with the pandemic - too expensive now - and besides of surface metal damage inside the high pressure pumps due to a too high fatty acids content a Diesel engine can manage used vegetable oil without any ash builtup. The main problem with plant oils, fresh or used, is oxidation - and the stickiness of oxidized vegetable oil, since this sticky residue is almost impossible to dissolve.
My canisters all have sticky goo at the bottom, no way to get it out, exept burning the canister.
But these are specific plant oil problems and not the typical used engine oil ash problems.
There is up to 7% of (processed) vegetable oil in our Diesel too, for about two decades now here in Germany.
I sent you a message on Patreon about this, haha.
I was aware that people had burnt it in old diesel engines, but I was under the impression that they were a little less particular than a diesel heater. I can see it damaging the fuel pump...
Used veg oil is expensive ? I had also heard of a sticky residue, and had heard / read that this way caused by the glycerine.
Really ?! They put plant oil in diesel in Germany... Interesting.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I hope, this reply lasts - haven't had any luck for some times now.
Used vegetable oil isn't easy to get any more in Germany - so we usually bought fresh oil - as long as it was cheaper than Diesel.
It's also healtier for the pump, since the fatty acid content of used veg oil usually is way to high.
So - to use it on a car you want to keep for a while, used veg oil needs more than filtering, it needs acid buffering too.
Together with the gathering not that cost efficient any more.
So, that they aren't allowed to give it away any more isn't too much of a loss.
But the point is - no ash problems, usually.
@@werner.x If I could buy veg oil cheaper than diesel. I would be doing a lot of experiments with it, for sure ! ... Where I am, it is about $3.50 per litre, and diesel is as low as $1.29 if you search for a good price and $1.47 at most places.
It will be / would be interesting to see of the acids have any effect on burning it in a heater. I was looking forward to making biodiesel with methanol and lye, but this appears to be working too well to make that worth while.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I'm not aware of eaten away engine parts due to unbuffered used veg oil - just the inside surfaces of Diesel pumps looked strangely discolored, which indicated wear - but it may have been misinterpretation, since we never measured anything - so, looked worn or maybe etched?, like Diesel would never do, but unfortunatelly with the usual superficial shop habit under constant time pressure - no scientific data here.
@@werner.x That is totally understandable.
Love your channel. Just ordered a heater. Kind of random but I have access to a bunch of expired jet fuel Jet A. Just wondering if you ever tried this.
Awesome ! I haven't tried Jet A, but it is more refined than diesel, so assume that it will work really well. I have tried paint thinner and varsol, and both of those worked well.
Hey Joel, I believe I have figured out your problem for space. You need more windows in your garage!?
HAHA... I think you are onto something there.
I was just thinking about if you could put some sort of vanes on the dish if it could spin its self? similar thing to rotating Xmas decorations you put above a candle. obviously different heat, flame etc than the cdh but just a thought.
just remembered we had an old electric fire with log effect lighting, spinney vanes mounted above the top of buld
It would be nice if that would work, but unfortunately, it won't.
The amount of torque created by those devices is just enough to keep the fan spinning. Any resistance on it at all would stop it.
The force that spins those things is from convection current, and there isn't any convection inside of a heater chamber. There is flow form the fan air, but if you use energy from the fan air, you restrict air flow, and that would make the heater work poorly ... and not produce much torque, either.
I have considered trying to extend and use the shaft from the fan motor to spin the dish... and decided not to do that, as the fan motor would probably burn out or just not be able to spin, due to the torque requirements.
did you test the newest diesel heater 8.5 kw ?
I'm not sure what you are referring to? A new heater on the market, or the MaxPeedingRods heater I have ?
Just wondering if you extended a tube to the outside over the shaft of your cleaning rod, then on the end used a graphite packing might that help seal it? Extendeding should keep the heat lower at the seal.
That is a good idea. I have a few thoughts on how to seal this up if the general concept actually works. I was thinking, something similar to a piston ring installed into a groove inside of the "bushing" made from copper.
I was even thinking that it could have a mechanical seal similar to a ferrule that was loosened when the servo motor turned, and then the motor would reverse and tighten, two revolutions one way and then back.
Something like you say, on the outside would likely be easier and much more practical.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Some heavy duty engines used compression type rings for sealing on the exhaust system. I find they were bad for sticking and leaking but turbos run pretty hot but I've also been surprised by how much damage can occur inside these heaters during your testing.
@@kenj469 Yeah, some two cycle engines use rings on the exhaust manifolds. It is petty harsh inside there, that's for sure. I am considering using ceramic sleeves over the shaft, on the inside, if the system works at all.
Can you do an experiment on burning very old stale diesel from a junkyard. I only have use for diesel fuel in my heater and wonder if it will work if very old and stale. Thank you
I actually burnt very very old stake diesel in my heater, as it's very first tank of fuel, haha... It came out of an old diesel generator that had sat for almost 10 years, then I kept it in storage in a jerry can for another 4-5 years.
It was only about 5L of fuel, and I didn't take the heater apart afterwards, but it seemed to work fine, until I introduced the waste engine oil... If I can get some stale diesel, I will try it again.
@@loweredexpectations4927if you add the EXL +7 Diesel Nitro to the stale diesel that will increase the stale fuels flammibility
@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate the knowledge.
1:45 im curios now what happens if you run a heater on pure c-tane booster🤔 not sure if thats spelled right 😅
Haha... I am also curious.
Someone would have to donate a LOT of booster before I did that test, though... I think this bottle retails for around $40 CAD .... and it is about half a litre.... That's about $320 per gallon.
Cetane
@@loweredexpectations4927 damn that's incredible expensive
Is the veggie oil new or been used? I have had comments on my stuff too about the veggie oil but never tried it
It is new... but only because it saved me the hassle of filtering. Given the results that I have had, I will be looking into getting some used stuff.
From what I have heard, the challenge is burning the glycerin in veg oils... This doesn't seem to be a problem at my current mix ratio.
@loweredexpectations4927 makes sense to a dumby like my self 😂😂 think over all when you compare these heaters vs waste oil ones there's a huge difference over all but that's what makes it a good challenge
@@ChippyOutdoors It is a challenge, for sure ! Haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927
That must be an urban legend. Glycerin burns just fine. It may need preheating though - but the whole soup needs that.
There seems to be a point in interchanging the glycerin with alcolhol, though - as the gouvernment demands esterification of vegetable oils for Diesels.
But it seems, like only chemists will understand that - a simple mechanic can't.
Since the energy out of the taken out glycerin is higher than the amount of energy of the put in alcohol - so lower gas mileage is the result. Plus the used up energy to esterify the stuff beforehand.
Plus another hard to understand negative point - the resulting fuel demanded changes in fuel hoses materials - since this alcohol content dissolved the rubber used before.
The normal user just burns fresh refined vegetable oil with a preheated fuel filter and it does no harm to any Diesel engine.
But the mandatory vegetable oil content in our Diesel fuel is esterified.
So - if you can burn vegetable oil without the usual ash mess with these heaters - no surprise.
@@werner.x I tried burning veg oil in an open flame (not terribly scientific) and it took quite a bit of heat to ignite. Once it was burning, it seemed to be self sustaining for a few minutes, but then, the flame went out a little after half of the volume was consumed.
What was left was a much thicker, and required a lot more heat to ignite and to keep it burning. Once it was burnt up, there was a substantial amount of carbon. I tried this with Diesel, Coconut oil and Canola oil (veg oil) and used engine oil... all with 20 grams of fuel. The coconut and veg oils were by far the worst. Of course, forced air, and in a compression engine, this is going to be very different.
The test I am currently running, doesn't have any preheating,. Standard tank, lines, pump and heater. I suppose mixing it with diesel and gasoline could be considered preheating, as those fuels will flash off and burn readily, producing heat to sustain the oil burn... Perhaps that is what is happening.
I do not understand the "esterification". From my understanding of the alcohol and lye process, the alcohol and lye cause the glycerin to separate out. Most of the alcohol and lye stay with the glycerine, and in the industrial process, the alcohol is then removed (distilled out) from the repainint fuel and reused for the next batch.
Guys I am pulling my hair out, I wonder if anyone here can help me. I have a few month old CDH and when it starts it will run for a few mins and then the heat it pushes out lowers like the burn has stopped but the fan and pump stay same speed as normal and eventually E18 come on the display. Anyone have any idea what could be causing it ?
That is odd... Are you getting any smoke out the exhaust when the heat drops ? Did you mean error 8 (E08)
This sounds like the pump may not be pumping enough fuel (faulty pump). Is your fuel tank mounted above or below your heater? This could be caused by a restriction in the fuel line, not enough air getting into your fuel tank, a plugged filter, or a number of other things.
The next time this happens, pull your fuel line off and allow the pump to pump into a bottle cap or something. At full heat setting, you should get about 7ml or fuel (about half a tablespoon) in one minute.
If you are getting less fuel, then the pump may be faulty and not pumping enough when it gets warm.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks very much for the reply , it is definitely E18. The heater exhaust is plumbed into the Chimney in my Livingroom in my house so cant see if there is any smoke , the tank is a 25L hulk marine tank and the bottom of the pickup tube is same height as the bottom of the CDH and the outlet of the tank is the same height as the bottom of where the the internal tank used to be ( I removed the tank and put a 20 amp power supply in its place). Thanks for the hint about the pump they are very cheap over here in England so I will purchase a new one and try that. The intake is definitely clear but the exhaust could be clogged, I will check on that when I change the pump. I can only find 1 mention of E18 on the internet and that was a guy on a FB group saying he had the same error but there was no conclusion to it.
The link below should show the error ont he front of the heater.
gyazo.com/f743b72250383eeb7b27262d29f72687
@@backyardbasher I had never heard of anything above E10, so I went looking and found a Planar pdf with codes all the way up to 78 or something like that... Unfortunately, code 18 is missing... Code 08 and 78 are both related to flame out codes... so my guess is that 18 is just another flame out code.... and the symptom indicates this.
The ECU / computer is pretty stupid, even in the "fancy" ones, so the manuals and websites very often overstate what the code means. 08 for example, means the heater has detected an unreasonably low reading from the temp sensor, but many manuals will claim that the heater somehow knows more than this. The ECU can tell if sensors are connected, and it can monitor readings form a few things in operation... that's it.
The way your heater is acting, this would normally throw a E-08 code, due to the temperature dropping. A clogged exhaust could cause the heater to flame out and lose heat. If you have an air compressor, you can remove the exhaust an blow through it to see if a bunch of carbon comes out.
I have bypassed my heater in the past and used a IV drip feed to deliver fuel to my heater... I ran it this way for a few days and am currently running it this way for more testing... I don't recommend doing this, but it does rule out the pump, haha.
Great job, Andrew!
Can you fart in your hand and then sniff it? Maybe that will improve efficiency.
🤣 I have tried this... it only helps if you exhale in the direction of the heater.
PS. I feel the love and admire the dedication... "Joellikeschinaheaters" Kinda creepy that you did enough research to know that my grandfathers middle name was "Andrew"
$119 is a deal for this heater
I agree... That's a great price CAD... I payed $184 for my first heater just over a year ago.
You're gonna have Elon musk knocking at your door any time soon
🤣
First :)
Second! Haha...
Well done.