Lenovo IdeaPad 320s Burning Smell When Plugged In -
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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I was shouting at you to check that capacitor first. It didn’t look ok from first sight! 😂 Great video Graham! 👍
same here lol
Yeah cracked cap.
I would have injected 1v and look what’s going hot before pulling schematics if I had missed the cap.
Congratulations on 400 videos.
Hehe, happens to us all from time to time. We were all shouting at the screen. Love how straight up you are showing mistakes. Great content as always.
Nice video. The coil concerned is to filter the ripple created by the buck regulator getting out rather than filtering noise coming in.
Oh interesting! Today I learned...
but the ripple is produced on the output inductor right?
@@winlose3073 The ripple is produced by the switching on the output inductor, but the currents comes from the input obviously. You don’t want that ripple to feed back into the input.
@@cmizapper I'm sorry but I don't quite fully uderstand your point here because EM waves do not carry current, they're just oscillating waves and they produce current when they encounter a conductive material so the case is still to me that they have nothing to do with the input current because that current is dc current!!!
@@winlose3073 I am not talking about EM fields…
In this case just check with an oscilloscope in and out of the inductor of the 3.3v working regulator .. just to see if there is some "stabilization of voltage involved"
Easy mistake ! Especially trying to work and film and work around the camera etc.....
Always. Check. Your. Assumptions.
Applies to me when debugging software and, apparently, also applies to electronics 😜 Good job!
you need a proper microscope (with depth info) . great work
Hi and nice video ! Other option was inyect 1 or 2 volts and look who burn.-
I was totally yelling at the monitor "That Cap is cracked" arrgh! But you got it! Yay!
it's allways false capacitor
earlier on you can see in the microscope that the cap have a crack on it.
Manufacturers use these inductors as cheap fuses. Replace them with 0.1mm (not just blob) wire and don't think too much about them.
Not enough cider?
what u mean welcome to Adamant? where did #LFC go
xD
I'm moving away from the LFC tags simply because not all videos are repair videos, and then like... do those get numbered? Do I still put them in the LFC numbers even if they're not an LFC? I'm switching to contiguous numbers to make thing simple!
Great work
Exelkent😊
L7500 Graham, I'm sure it said L4500
Yea there was a flub in there somewhere, in the recording I looked up the other one and it was a massive regulator output inductor and I was like 'uuuuh that's not what I'm looking for'. In the edit I trimmed to the correct one to cut time.
loving the haircut
Ha! I saw the cracks in the capacitor right away.... do I get a prize? 😁
Will the other 175K viewers also get a prize then? 😉
@@Rob_III No no...just me!!
hello good sir love the vids
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
It actually worked🤭
BTW your brain is just normal.
I was expecting those burns becomes carbon resistor.😁
Great explanation as always, im going to say, i think i see that iffy cap but im not 100%. Nice Vid, keeep them coming!
That music while you works always makes me think of some cheesy romance scene from an 80's teen flick! Hahaha!
I was wondering to be honest why did you not check that bad looking cap first !
i get things wrong at first and fill the thrashbin later. U made a mistake and got everything fixed in the end. Congrats! 🎉
Thanks for sharing your thought process it really helps us newbies.
Please please please don't start using "go ahead" over and over ----- 8 mins 37 seconds
Kersploaded- my new word of the day, love it
love the kersploded phrase Graham LOL
Maybe consider to buy a new multimeter instead of the slow reacting Vici . Thanks for the Nice video’s !
Where possible, I like to use cheap accessible tools to show that you don't have to have mega expensive equipment to do this. Using a cheap multimeter is a big part of this, as it's something anyone can easily get for $20 and do basic probing to figure out what they're dealing with, and also see how the meter is likely to respond - including when it's slow or seemingly a bit random.
Happy Haircut too by the way lol.
Are computers similar to automotive where one part fails causing other daisy chain parts over work leading to a future of failing?
Yes absolutely... You don't see much of it on my channel, I mostly showcase lower-level board repair, but there's failure modes where a regulator can fail and lead to a bunch of stuff on that power rail all getting zapped as well. LFC#364 was an autopsy of a dead PCH where all the secondary rails were shorted together.
Great video again thnx.
Been there, done that 😅
Hi! Where do you get the schematics for any board?
Google for "LA-E541P schematic"
👍👍😎✌️🤟
Tip for the tip - use fine diamond file (cheap - commonly sold for fingernails) to sharpen the probe tips, gives them the o-scope probe tip "bite".
In my experience most "gold" probe tips are plain brass all the way through, no need to care for an outer coating being damaged. (can't tell about expensive probes that might actually be gold plated)