Cleverly hidden in the manual for your multimeter.. 4-13.Auto power off 1. When the meter stops work about 15 minutes, the built-in buzzer will be sound 5 times and turn into sleeping mode, 1 minute later, the buzzer sound a long voice 1 time, the meter will be power off. Press any key to restart the power. 2.Press “DC/AC” key and then turn on, the auto power off function will be cancelled
@@Adamant_IT You can get 100 AA or AAA batteries from battery hookup for $10. They are usually Amazon Basics alkaline and they are pulls from returned items and they are still slam full, some are still plastic even. It's the cheapest thing I know of. If you have an EDC flashlight in your pocket you know how hungry it is for batteries. These are good ones.
@@AndyM... Every meter I've ever owned has this feature and the manuals are usually pretty small and the make and model of the unit was right there so I took 20 seconds out of my day to help him and bust his balls at the same time. I know when I hear those beeps they are so annoying. They do let you know when you've spent way too much time chasing one little problem but I'd rather just feed the darn thing batteries too than hear those beeps. The long beeps just grate on you. It's amazing how a 3 second beep can be so annoying.
You're not supposed to hand-solder MLCCs - the thermal stress from heating them unevenly promotes the exact type of cracks that caused this fault to begin with. First you get cracks, then silver migration through them when voltage is applied (thank you, lead-free solder), and eventually, kaboom.
That's what I like about your videos. You don't grab a thermal camera every time. This is why your content is not boring. Well explained and humorous at times. Thanks for the vid.
I was working in a non-IT role some years back when a PC failed to boot after being moved. Volunteered to have a look at it and found a spare metal spacer lodged under the mobo along with a TO-220-style MOSFET from the memory power supply that had got hot enough to melt its solder and drop off the underside of the board. Soldered it back and much to my surprise all was OK. The PC's network name was changed to Phoenix...
Probably fine in this case, as the DC in mosfets are expected to be 'always on'. Buck regulator mosfets on VRMs are switching at high frequencies, so they're never passing full current, they wouldn't appreciate the always-on of a stuck gate. It's also unknown how much heat was actually there... the human finger will get burned at 60c, but mosfets are fine up to about 90-100c. So the heat may have been well within the acceptable range.
A perfectionist may replace both mosfets (but then you may not have them and that would delay the repair and cost the customer more). Theoretically 2Amps went through them before the PSU hopefully shut down and although they can handle that (up to 15Amps nominal, 42Amps max, according to the datasheet, hard to believe) anything hot enough to affect a DC jack warrants further remedial work, in my opinion.
Shorted capacitor on main power rail sometimes leads to (partially) shorted DC-in MOSFETs, so it's worth checking. But if it measures fine, it's most likely fine and unlikely to fail soon after.
Hey man, would you be willing to disclose where you get your schematics from, I am trying to chase one down for a laptop yet all the sites seem really dodgy
Im new to this stuff and to me all those capacitors, inductors, fuses and resistors look the same (those little cube looking things). How do you distinguish them from one another? Is there some color code or anything that would tell you right away what it is?
Yea there's some colour coding, but also just shape and size. For small parts, brown for capacitors and black for resistors. Large parts, capacitors typically have a plastic case and inductors are the big square bois. You can get small SMD inductors that are also black, but they tend to be larger than resistors, which is how you tell them apart. A lot of it is just context as well, knowing what parts do helps you identify them, eg "that must be a SMD inductor because it doesn't make sense for it to be a resistor"
Middle pads are extensions of the right, for smaller components. I did notice this afterwards, hence why the caption appears in the video at that point, but it doesn't make a difference to the functionality.
Of course I don't know what is inside you DMM, but you can sometimes change timeout values / disable the feature, but reprogramming the flash chip in it.
Hard Drives, even in 2024 have their uses, maybe not for most users on desktop or laptops, but for systems that requires constant writes and rewrites like servers. I have to have one in my Linux server as a SSD would last a month. Anyway Good Vid a per always.
Pro tip: To avoid tiny smd parts flying into interstellar space at warp factor 9 when trying to measure it, resolder it back onto the board but with only one side connected with the other side not touching anything, then you can get a good connection with meter and measure it.
Middle pads are extensions of the right, for smaller components. I did notice this afterwards, hence why the caption appears in the video at that point, but it doesn't make a difference to the functionality.
holy crap!you must be really cheap bro lol.Your tools are for laughs and you are to stingy to use at least some bloody flux.Your hot air station is struggling to remove a capasitor from a small board! I guess you skipped the part of using thermal paste on cpu because it was really embarrassing.INVEST ON TOOLS if you want to call your self a repair shop.Politeness is not my thing(i know),but if you follow my words,you will be better tomorrow.
The part where you said the short usually hits components that have path to ground. Really educates me. I am a beginner repair man. Thanks
Cleverly hidden in the manual for your multimeter..
4-13.Auto power off
1. When the meter stops work about 15 minutes, the built-in buzzer will be sound 5 times and
turn into sleeping mode, 1 minute later, the buzzer sound a long voice 1 time, the meter will
be power off. Press any key to restart the power.
2.Press “DC/AC” key and then turn on, the auto power off function will be cancelled
Why would they hide it in the manual? 😩 😉
Outstanding. That worked a treat - many thanks!
@@Adamant_IT You can get 100 AA or AAA batteries from battery hookup for $10. They are usually Amazon Basics alkaline and they are pulls from returned items and they are still slam full, some are still plastic even. It's the cheapest thing I know of. If you have an EDC flashlight in your pocket you know how hungry it is for batteries. These are good ones.
Good onya for passing this info on, this is what it's all about...helping each other !!! 🤠😎
@@AndyM... Every meter I've ever owned has this feature and the manuals are usually pretty small and the make and model of the unit was right there so I took 20 seconds out of my day to help him and bust his balls at the same time. I know when I hear those beeps they are so annoying. They do let you know when you've spent way too much time chasing one little problem but I'd rather just feed the darn thing batteries too than hear those beeps. The long beeps just grate on you. It's amazing how a 3 second beep can be so annoying.
We used to have the theory that heatsink compound didn't obey the laws of physics - one molecule on your finger can expand to cover the universe!
You're not supposed to hand-solder MLCCs - the thermal stress from heating them unevenly promotes the exact type of cracks that caused this fault to begin with. First you get cracks, then silver migration through them when voltage is applied (thank you, lead-free solder), and eventually, kaboom.
That's what I like about your videos. You don't grab a thermal camera every time. This is why your content is not boring. Well explained and humorous at times. Thanks for the vid.
I was working in a non-IT role some years back when a PC failed to boot after being moved.
Volunteered to have a look at it and found a spare metal spacer lodged under the mobo along with a TO-220-style MOSFET from the memory power supply that had got hot enough to melt its solder and drop off the underside of the board.
Soldered it back and much to my surprise all was OK.
The PC's network name was changed to Phoenix...
CPU is Ice Lake so it has FIVR (Tiger Lake as well). And FIVR often measure higher in resistance to ground, similarly to Haswell/Broadwell.
I find when handling SMD parts sticking them to a piece of tape prevents them from getting lost until they are safely soldered to a pcb.
It's always the capacitors... unless it isn't!
And it's never the CPU, unless it is. Ha ha.
"The battle is fought, and the war is won" Great quote lol
I love the translation into my native language for when you put up a test terminal of the
multimeter: to stab😊 lol
Can you use solder paste for soldering these small components?
Good explanation thank you very much I'm learning everyday 🎉
Nice one! I've not had one of these minis on the bench yet.
When a MOSFET has been stressed, such as in this example, how does that affect its reliability in the average use case scenario?
Probably fine in this case, as the DC in mosfets are expected to be 'always on'. Buck regulator mosfets on VRMs are switching at high frequencies, so they're never passing full current, they wouldn't appreciate the always-on of a stuck gate. It's also unknown how much heat was actually there... the human finger will get burned at 60c, but mosfets are fine up to about 90-100c. So the heat may have been well within the acceptable range.
@@Adamant_IT It's amazing how small they are, thanks for your reply.
A perfectionist may replace both mosfets (but then you may not have them and that would delay the repair and cost the customer more). Theoretically 2Amps went through them before the PSU hopefully shut down and although they can handle that (up to 15Amps nominal, 42Amps max, according to the datasheet, hard to believe) anything hot enough to affect a DC jack warrants further remedial work, in my opinion.
@@ralphj4012 yeah toasting the jack shows it was super hot
Shorted capacitor on main power rail sometimes leads to (partially) shorted DC-in MOSFETs, so it's worth checking. But if it measures fine, it's most likely fine and unlikely to fail soon after.
As the great golfer Gary Player said,… The more I practice, the luckier I get. Great fix Mr A.
Hey man, would you be willing to disclose where you get your schematics from, I am trying to chase one down for a laptop yet all the sites seem really dodgy
14:15 do you mean 0805 ceramic caps? Never heard of 0804...
Argh, yea that's the one, I always think the second number is half of the first.
Great video. The more you do the more proficient you become and the the more you do the greater the chance of a mistake.
Great work... Thank you.
Looked like someone replaced the input mosfets since the dc jack took some heat. Also the pads of the mosfets looked non-factory.
Hard to tell. Bloody neat job if they did. I think maybe someone was in there with a soldering iron or hot air, but bottled out.
Back when my mate and I used to fix TV's, we used to call that stuff BWS (b_____d white stuff)! Nice Work! Graham.
Im new to this stuff and to me all those capacitors, inductors, fuses and resistors look the same (those little cube looking things). How do you distinguish them from one another? Is there some color code or anything that would tell you right away what it is?
Yea there's some colour coding, but also just shape and size. For small parts, brown for capacitors and black for resistors. Large parts, capacitors typically have a plastic case and inductors are the big square bois.
You can get small SMD inductors that are also black, but they tend to be larger than resistors, which is how you tell them apart. A lot of it is just context as well, knowing what parts do helps you identify them, eg "that must be a SMD inductor because it doesn't make sense for it to be a resistor"
Thank God, somebody else that uses his brain and not immediately starts injecting voltages in the hope they see something getting warm…😂😂😂
"... and the battle is won..." nice end!
the caps were connected on the left and to the middle not on the right hand side
Middle pads are extensions of the right, for smaller components. I did notice this afterwards, hence why the caption appears in the video at that point, but it doesn't make a difference to the functionality.
Very good. I suspect 0604 and 0804 (14:11) was a Freudian slip, you can get 0804 but they tend to be poor tolerance and expensive.
Of course I don't know what is inside you DMM, but you can sometimes change timeout values / disable the feature, but reprogramming the flash chip in it.
Jessa Jones from iPad Rehab and has a UA-cam channel by the same name, calls that the caveman mentality, "See hot, remove hot."
Yup yup - same place as the "It's never the coil!" lesson 👌
Press “DC/AC” key and then turn on, the auto power off function will be cancelled
Graham, you missed a trick. Video #404 surely should have been problem not found!
nice job well done :)
Like what you said, it’s never the cpu except when it is and it was capacitors not the power chips
What's that thing called at the start of a video ....urmmm....urmmmm. MEMORY CHIP FAIL...INTRO....😂😋
👌nice work
great thanks
Check your audio. it is very low.
Nice repair Graham.
MLCCs are always low when DC biased. Proper datasheets even provide a plot of capacity vs. bias voltage.
Hard Drives, even in 2024 have their uses, maybe not for most users on desktop or laptops, but for systems that requires constant writes and rewrites like servers. I have to have one in my Linux server as a SSD would last a month. Anyway Good Vid a per always.
2020 mini forum.
Pro tip: To avoid tiny smd parts flying into interstellar space at warp factor 9 when trying to measure it, resolder it back onto the board but with only one side connected with the other side not touching anything, then you can get a good connection with meter and measure it.
I like the checklist
MOAR POWAH!
Visual check? Graham? Has he found what? Since when did this boy acquire that ability? He must be an imposter and/or (unless he has a twin brother).
Flukes havea trick to disable auto-off. Found one in the garbage bin and repaired it so i know they are overpriced
nice job
that mean use your brain cells haha .
I wanna work with you :C but I living in Mexico
Yes the checklist coming in clutch.
But you literally soldered the capacitors in the wrong place, go back to the video and watch.
Middle pads are extensions of the right, for smaller components. I did notice this afterwards, hence why the caption appears in the video at that point, but it doesn't make a difference to the functionality.
Can you please cut your beard? I'm unable to focus the video.
Naah. You got lucky this time
But I had to try in order to get lucky. If I hadn't looked, it would not have been possible to be lucky... 👌
@@Adamant_IT I agree but I like to play with you 🤣
I like your investigation way, but don’t like your beard 😂
holy crap!you must be really cheap bro lol.Your tools are for laughs and you are to stingy to use at least some bloody flux.Your hot air station is struggling to remove a capasitor from a small board! I guess you skipped the part of using thermal paste on cpu because it was really embarrassing.INVEST ON TOOLS if you want to call your self a repair shop.Politeness is not my thing(i know),but if you follow my words,you will be better tomorrow.