Re: Damascus steel, worth adding: old-school Damascus steel (like, in the Middle Ages) had an excellent reputation compared to other steels of that era. In particular, the steel that bladesmiths in Damascus, Syria used (Wootz steel) had vanadium impurities, and their processing method not only brought out nice patterns in the steel, but also developed vanadium carbides, which made the steel much stronger. This was before we even knew what vanadium was. Today, modern metallurgy makes that all obsolete. If we want vanadium carbides in our steel, now we just add vanadium - think 80CrV2 or S30V. We can also distribute the vanadium carbides much more evenly throughout the steel, so we don't get the patterns that classic Damascus steel has. Modern Damascus steel is NOT made using the Syrian technique, which is obsolete due to modern metallurgy. It's simply forge welded for the sake of making a pretty pattern. Usually, one of the steels used isn't great - like 15N20, or PMC27 in Damasteel. You'd get better performance using just the better of the two steels, rather than welding them together.
Well said👊 Still ... sometimes it can be quite attractive (I personally really like the pattern on the Civivi Asticus and also on the Praxis😍 whereas that on the McKenna I find ugly as $#it)🤷♂️
@@esoteric5277 The Copper McKenna with the black washed handle and blade is strangely compelling even though i'll probably get the brass one . Usually i'm not a fan of Civivi's "Damascus" and prefer the satin blades .
@@kerryrwac I would generally avoid a coated blade, but a blackwash does look very attractive somehow🥴 I also love the look of copper or bronze on hardware or scales, and it's antimicrobial to boot😷 But coated blades tend to not cut as smoothly. Also heavy metals like bronze and copper add useless weight😫 And then with the price also being higher ... I find the temptation thankfully easy to resist😑
Misconceptions: (1) Knives are scary and bad (2) You need to pay $500 for a good knife (3) A knife has to be huge to be a good knife (4) Knife steel does not matter (5) It's hard to sharpen a knife.
I got into this hobby earlier this year, and I absolutely agree that a newbie could be easily obsessed with high end steels and pays too much attention on steel types. I remember at the beginning I wanted a knife with 8cr steel, then I realized it had a version with D2 steel as well. Diving deeper, I started to see more and more fancy steels with much higher price tags. Naturally I talked to myself: “Wow, I want the baddest and most expensive knife steel I can afford!” Which now I know is quite a naive thought. As I learn more, I realized it’s not all about the steel types, and 8cr has its place in the knife world even though it holds an edge for shorter time; it sharpens easier than a super steel with crazy edge retention. That’s just one example I came up to remind myself not to be obsessed with anything just because it’s “better” and more expensive.
With the modest collection I've accumulated over the years, my hard use, work knife is still my Benchmade 750 Pinnacle, with it's "lowly" ATS-34 blade steel. It holds its edge just fine, it's fairly easy to sharpen and has a rock solid lockup from the titanium framelock. My edc is a small, plain Sebenza 21, it's all the knife I really need during an average day. For outdoors use (in the woods or fishing mostly), I carry my 750 along with one of my ESEE fixed blades with its 1095 steel. ESEE and Rowan are experts at heat treating 1095.
Since I have a decent knife collection, 8Cr13MoV or Aus 8 is a good steel for me. I can tune it up quickly on my Lansky Turnbox and I don't have to worry as much about chipping. I do have some other steels in the collection like 440c and D2, but softer is easier for me to quickly get extremely sharp.
That if Batman calls it a gem then you got to have it. That you need a lot of different style knifes, that you need really expensive knifes. For me I have found I have knives from 3 companies all have a hole or a flipper tab, and I prefer the cost between 100 - 150 dollars as that’s a comfortable spot to carry and use.
Nick's points about not relying on a singular reviewer remind me of reading books on philosophy: none have ticked absolutely all the boxes for me, but one can synthesize the good from multiple sources. Also, the process of finding those points of difference are an opportunity to examine what it is you're seeking.
You could also add: *local laws* to the list of things under "availability" as just because you might be able to buy it, using/carrying the knife might be a different thing altogether! Here in Germany a knife that has a one handed opening mechanism AND locks is not something you can carry around with you everywhere... I ended up getting a CRKT CEO in a british edition (Heinnie Haynes) because that one is a two handed opener but is otherwise identical to the regular one. I liked the style but wanted to carry it with me and actually use it instead of merely having it in a drawer at home so that was the only alternative available.
We have the opposite problem in America. For some reason, as lenient as our knife and gun laws are in most states, everybody seems to think that everything is illegal. It's baffling
Alex Gentry yeah that’s true. There was a cashier at the grocery store I used to work at who took a knife out of her purse to cut a coupon out for a customer, wasn’t even an auto or anything just a traditional slip joint large stockman, the largest blade was probably about three inches. Then the customer said “you’d better not let them find that if you get pulled over” and all I was thinking was 🤯 this woman does not need to be walking around alone. I live in Kentucky and we can carry any blade we want to here. There was one customer who was in that same store almost on a daily basis and he always had a 7” or so Buck fixed blade on his hip, he was a nice guy and there was no problems.
I must admit I found it hard at first to determine from reviews whether a knife was actually good for regular use, or mediocre with good looks and features. Especially the focus on stuff like 4-way clips, handle looks (not ergonomics), made in [blabla], screw choices and whatnot affects review judgement so much, while it really doesn't matter if you want to use the damn thing as a tool (t6/t8 choice notwithstanding). Not that I don't care about looks, convenience and uniqueness (on the contrary), but I feel like the distinction between a user perspective and a enthusiast perspective is lost in reviews more often than not.
For me the main misconception I see is the "best knife". I'll see in knife groups people often ask what's the best knife you can buy for under $500. There's never a x fits all case. It's part of the reason real knife owners become collectors, different knives for different occasions. A knife brand I haven't seen covered on this channel is qsp. I subscribe to going gears edc club box and this month was a qsp Damascus hawk folder. One of the smoothest and probably one of my new favorite sub $100 knives I own. Worth looking in to.
That's not quite true. The best knife is the one you're looking at purchasing, rather than the one you just purchased or the one you took out of the cart.
The biggest “misconception” I had coming into the knife world was underestimating its sheer magnitude. In my mind, it was “spyderco, opinel, buck and a few dozen others that nobody cares about”. NOPE, WRONG...like guitars (my main hobby/profession), it’s basically endless...
UA-cam randomly suggested this. Very good information and thank you for your knowledge. But when the guy showing the knives has a bandaid on his finger it made me chuckle a bit
Nick, Great Video! I purchased a good number of knives with "Poor Slicing Geometry" early on in my knife journey. A good design in D2 is really all I need. That said the appetite for ZDP189, LC200N, M4, and M390 is strong in this one... Your point of view is much appreciated. Thanks again. : )
I appreciate your info thank you. I have " collected " fairly basic or crappy knives for 30 years. Got to spyderco value line and started liking higher quality stuff. Bought a lionsteel / nutnfancy knife a year ago. Just bought a montery bay large carry today. Like the build design and like the clean look. The one knife i have wanted more than a year is the slyce bowie.. sorry about my spelling. It just seems like knife that would fit my style a lot. I am not worried about blade steel .. or custom makers.. just interested in some higher quality that makes me happy. 300 dollars is my most expensive knife so far. Dont need 20 of them. Just a few .
The assumption that the more expensive the knife, the better the quality. I love how my co-workers compare their Hinderer to my native 5 maxamet. Just leaves a grin on my face
This is a great video and very helpful for new collectors. That being said, the Damascus thing is a problem. Paying way more for something that is fancy and pretty, but functions worse, is exactly like buying a Mercedes for your commuter car. If you have one “EDC” knife and it is Damascus, then you may be missing the point.
When I first started collecting Knives I didn't care about the Steel on it, I just bought any knife that looked cool. When I started learning more about steals, I realized I bought a lot of knife with just "stainless steel" that was my noobi mistake lol. But I don't regret buying them. In my opinion, it's a good idea to buy a cheap knife now and then, so you can really understand the quality and the reason why you buy higher end knives. Great video by the way. ^w^
One of my most disappointing misunderstandings when a newbie was expecting knives to come in perfect. Most have small dings or scratches upon arrival. Some have more serious issues, such as blade play, for which you def should return the knife. But once I kinda lowered my expectations for production knives, I was a lot more content.
For me, design is the most important thing, together with function. I look for outstanding lines and masses, that work well together. What does that mean? Hard to explain, but when you have it, you tend to exclaim “nice!” If that impression holds up under analysis, it might be a masterpiece!
I tend to favor larger knives in the $40 to $60 range with at least D2 blade steel. After buying and selling/giving away most of my initial knife collection, I now know what works best for my bias and I'm able to make better knife purchases. Thanks for this "review"!
I've been into knives for over 20 years, and I really like 440a steel, provided it's well heat-treated. People laugh at 440a, but it's always served me well. You just have to touch it up for 30 seconds when it starts dragging.
I really appreciate how much time he puts into his videos, had this been around years ago when I first got into the knife world I would have saved myself so much money
Very valuable video, Nick. Class act on your part to take the time to help folks new(ish) to the hobby. I could have used it in 1990(+-) when I fell headlong into knife lust myself. Hope all is well with you & the missus. Y'all stay safe! & thanks for the high quality content!
All valid points but I tend to start with the handle. If it does not fit my hand for the intended purpose it’s useless to me. Everyday use has to be easy to sharpen. How hard you intend to use the knife determines folder or fixed blade. Convenience of carry shows me how practical a purchase this will be. Blade shape and grind lets me fine tune my decision. The type of blade steel and temper is left to how well you trust the maker cuz you don’t know until you use it and only then you may suspect you do not have what you paid for. Gems like Nick attempt to guide you in the right direction but you will never really know until it is in your hand and you are using it for its intended purpose. All that being said, Nick did guide me to the Rat 1 with D2 steel and it is still my favourite everyday folder although I do now realize that I prefer fixed blades for durability and handle comfort for long term use. A Mora Companion HD will take you a long way for $20-$30 CAD. A Terava Jaakarripukko will last you a lifetime for under $100 CAD. I did not get into watches cuz Nick, a wise man, said so.
I agree that some some people confuse "custom", or designed based on my choices and there's only one in the world, with "hand made", or I'm a new knife maker and can't afford any machines.
I'm surprised that you didn't mention that people tend to associate weight with quality. You know, like when someone used to Mtechs made out of mystery pot metal with weight of a neutron star handles Manix LW and says: 'Wow, this feels like a cheap piece of garbage.' while it's actually much more durable and higher quality.
@@bigsean2473 I haven't had any problems with them, it's comfortable and the action is smooth. It's not meant to be a heavy use knife, I use it when I need a sharp one and carry my kershaw as a beater.
I'm kinda to the point of wanting multiple high end production over customs, not only due to the larger following providing fun discussions but due to the reason that they are pretty much on par with fit and finish, while also being semi-regular production where you cab find the knife
Another nice Nick video. I like the HRC point. My knives are workers and my Rex 45 and Maxamet steels are certainly as hard or harder than my cruwear but are super unforgiving and time consuming to freehand sharpen. The cruwear is a breeze to sharpen and get super sharp, the edges last for a long time. We're done here.
A lot of non knife people think that if you carry a pocket knife you're looking to stab someone. I usually have to explain that a non-locking knife would more than likely close up on the wielder's fingers, and go on to demonstrate the effect.
So much I'd like to "add" but, yea... In the end You become your own expert. I totally respect all the great things Mr. Shabazz has to say about any knife. He was 70% repsonsible for moving me from the "ignorant / noob / tactikewl" world of knives into the adult world of quality knives. These days I know enough to be able to argue some fine points, but most importantly Own my preferences instead of living by other's. A great example is the ZT 095bw. Nick liked it but wasn't sold on it, where it is probably my most liked edc. First, I personally Love harpoon blades. Being able to get your thumb out there comfortably is major important to some of my tasks. Mr. Shabazz clearly doesn't need that functionality. And one of the things you learn as you mature is: That is Ok. We each use our knives differntly so expect different things. I've used that ZT 95 to make a ham sandwich. Cut the fresh bread, cut the ham off the bone, cut the tomatoes, cheese, lettuce, spread the mayo. You'd think the width would make it a bad cheese knife but the thinness makes it work (the blade is almost identical to the Essee Ezula). I use the ZT 95 to cut blackberries back in the parking lot. Don't want those scratching people's paint. Open boxes, pop blisters, shave pine and oak, and on and on. It has served me well. The ZT s35vn steel works for me. It gets beyond shaving sharp, and holds that edge long enough for me. Meanwhile, I know Spyderco is a great brand. My brother loved them when he was alive. 1) I don't like serrations. Not for me. and 2) I do not know why but that big circle cutout irritates me to no end. I will never buy a Spyderco. Still a very well respected knife maker. And you know what. That is Ok. It wont stop me from sharpening my edge by watching Mr. Shabazz. Rock on, Sir!
"Everyone is biased" Thanks for your honesty. BTW I have a North Arm Skaha 2 and a CJRB, Centros, which I know you like. But I prefer my Kizer Domin Mini - which you totally dismiss. Different strokes, I guess.
I like a knife that is not only incredibly useful but so sweet as to show that I am at "that really comfortable place in life" where I can have and use very nice and enviable stuff!
@@tonyochoa7097 I use my knives a surprising amount and I let people use them too (not for prying or cutting up against hard surfaces). I have always appreciated the feel of quality items and I like the look people give a really good knife when they first handle it and the occasional "nice knife" comment. But yeah, I don't just whip out my cool knife just to show people unless maybe it's my best friend and I'm excited about it 🤗
I see many of your knives are plain edged. Can you tell me why you prefer plain edged over combo blades? Thank you, in advance, for your answer, Sir. Be well and thank you for your awesome channel.
Great video as always. The other misconception today (especially about folders) is that they must without any shadow of a doubt be able to be whacked on their spine by a big lump of wood or bashed into something as u would an axe; and not collapse LOL! In fact there is (as you already know) a great lot of Social Media "definitions" building to support this myth.
My current edc is an Adler made German Army Knife. Hoping to get a Benchmade 940 when I can. Seems like a perfect knife for what I use a pocket knife for plus the warranty. Buy once, cry once.
I often don’t agree with some of the stuff you say, Nick. Especially about Benchmade, but I love watching your videos because you’re a straight shooter. In fact, you’re review of the PM2 was why I went out and bought one despite having the hands of a 12 year old lol.
I used to think that “the type of steel is the only thing that matters!” Then I got the paragon Phoenix in s30v. They completely did a terrible job with the heat treatment. I have a spyderco pm2 in s30v. And it was soooo much better. The Phoenix lost its edge after a week carrying. It wouldn’t even cut paper. That’s crazy for s30v.
john soble yes and no. Soyderco doesn’t have as good of quality control in terms of heat treatment. So, if you get a bad heat treated knife (in s30v) that’s why. But, I prefer spydercos designs and the signature “spydiehole”. The only design I like from benchmade is the barrage. But I haven’t had a chance to check one out bc they aren’t at any stores that I’ve been too. And I like to try a knife out before I buy it. Bc, as we all know... you get the honeymoon period and then realize how much this knife sucks and is overpriced haha.
Mate, I just bought a Böker Magnum blue dot in 440a for £12 because I liked the simple design AND it slices like you wouldn't believe AND that's what it will be mostly doing. If I want to use a knife as a trowel then I will get out my heavily (naturally) patinated £11 Mora Robust which constantly has dirt in the plastic sheath. Such is the subjective nature of the tools you have and what you want them to do for you.
personally, as long as it has the Nick Shabazz seal of approval, I'll enjoy it. I remember your old PM2 review as being Good (based on a scale of Good, Great, Bad, and Ugly) -- I have larger hands than most and that knife is perfect for me, I'm still carrying it
a note about hardness, the harder the steel the easier it is to snap and chip like glass. drill bits as an example are super hard, and that's why they tend to explode when they break, they are like glass, if they were softer they couldn't drill into harder metal and they would twist like a pasta screw if they got stuck on a burr.
Great video! Glad I watched, came looking for answers and leaving with even more questions:) HA! But many of my questions were answered. Thanks for sharing...
Determine what you are using a knife for. Use them. Don't break the bank" until you've experimented with blade steels, shapes, opening mechanisms, or handle materials until you realize your preference. Then upgrade. My wife has high end chef's knives whereas I have low budget beater experiment tools. We use knives differently. Take advantage of people that know more than you and adapt it to fit your preferences.
I came to the exact same conclusion as you did with diminishing returns, I always tell people that are interested in knives 150-200 is kind of the cut off point from what I've experienced. If you want a decent knife you pretty much get everything you need at 200,, the more you go past 200 you really don't see much improvements in materials, action, ergos, durability etc. You can lay down 150-200 on a knife and get everything top spec, the best steel type, super smooth action, solid lock up, great ergonomics. The more you go past 200 the less you gain in terms of bang for your buck. Then there's the ugly side of it, when you handle a knife that costs 300+ and you think it isn't as good quality as a knife you paid 150 for. Or you see a knife you love that costs 290, then you find out it's running on teflon washers, that really doesn't excite me.
One youtuber mentioned a knife for dining or a knife for weddings?? As if there is an EDC for formal occasions. I can’t see myself pulling a knife at a wedding unless at the reception a box needed to be opened.
I noticed you only have stainless steel and not non reflecting black blades. Is it just a preference or is there something to it? I'm new to the knife world and you opinions are welcome 🙏
I am not really in the knife world, I started using knives in a world very different to the one you inhabit. My mum was a cook, and knives were her trade, there was nothing special about the steel, they were carbon steel and sharpened until they wore out. That is the way my dad used knives too. I broke the tip off his old army knife using it to pry. I am a gardener and I use vintage carbon steel, made by long dead blacksmiths, none of this fetishism about unobtanium alloys. For everyday use Opinels are as good as anything, I have a Martinii Puuko I have had for years, so long there are nicks on the blade cos it has had a hard life. So far as folders are concerned, I do not think there is better quality than a Victorinox SAK, they are just so well made, yeah even compared to a Spyderco or fancy knife. I have owned enough bad knives to know what works for me. It is rare that anything happens in the knife world that really impresses me, but the new Victorinox Farmer X has, it has got everything I want for an everyday knife.
What a treat! Visually, information-wise and on the one-liner front. Thanks Nick! #dontfeedtheparasites Have you been leftie spiderflicking? Your index...
I'm new to your channel and not sure if you respond to comments, but I have a question. I just picked up an Endura Super Gold and a Calypso Jr Super Blue. I understand that these are special editions for the steel specifically, on the spectrum of general good/bad, where do these actually land? I have a small understanding of the difference, but I'd like to hear the opinion of some one with more expertise in metallurgy. Viewers are also welcome to answer these questions, would prefer no anecdotal responses. Thank you :)
Not a misunderstanding but might be usefull to share it to anyone considering a kme. Get a base! I got mine today about a year after I bought my KME and even though it can be used without it, the control the base gives is a major improvement.
It's a shame that they offer the base as an add-on, it really should come standard. But I agree, the base makes sharpening so much easier. I got a bentobox spyderco military in s90v, blue g10 yesterday, and the secondary bevel grind is not even on both sides. Wider on one side compared to the other, and it didn't come extremely sharp. I'm going to regrind it evenly with the kme. Having the base is going to make the job way easier than without.
@@abc456f yeah I never understood why it isn't standard. The retailer I bought the system from didn't even stock the base which may make some not even know that it's an option.
@@ribstein7714 I bought everything directly from their website, but after watching so many videos on the kme, I knew I was going to get the base. I've lost count on how much I've spent in total, started with their base model including the base, added the 50 and 100 grit stones, a couple of lapping films, kangaroo strop with emulsion, recurve rod, and jewel stick. My first sharpening system was the spyderco sharpmaker with fine and extra fine rods which does a decent job. Then I tried the Lansky which I didn't like right out of the box and returned it. The kme is expensive but worth it to me. Allows me to to be more precise and if I put in the time, I can get a beautiful mirror polish. Not that it's needed but it sure looks good!
@@abc456f it really is an excellent product. Regarding the 50 and 100 grit stones. Do you belive fhat they are worth it? Sharpening beat up kitchen knives and the like can be a pain.
@@ribstein7714 If you need to regrind the edge, I'd highly recommend the 50 and 100 grits. They can remove a lot of material in a much shorter time than the higher grits. Just don't use much pressure, let the stones do the work or you'll remove too much steel.
I am wondering about rust resistant knives. I get that the blades are resistant to rust or corrosion, but what about the other parts of the knives? I am a fisherman and have tossed many knives due to rust issues due to being forgotten in the tackle box. I need a fishing knife that if I forget about it for a year, it will not rust? I have been eyeing the Spyderco line but wonder about the other parts? Any recommendations?
Too many people jump right in and obsess over what's strongest fastest , stays sharp forever, and is the most tacticool. They do this not knowing a more modest thinner bladed knife that just cuts really well is a better place to start, start there then decide if for some reason you need a pocket knife that van handle misuse and abuse.
22:08 the reason I don't have a strider DB is because I won't pay 600$ for a 325$ knife. Its a sad time in the knife game, especially if your looking for the best tools and you're not a collector.
Re: Damascus steel, worth adding: old-school Damascus steel (like, in the Middle Ages) had an excellent reputation compared to other steels of that era. In particular, the steel that bladesmiths in Damascus, Syria used (Wootz steel) had vanadium impurities, and their processing method not only brought out nice patterns in the steel, but also developed vanadium carbides, which made the steel much stronger. This was before we even knew what vanadium was.
Today, modern metallurgy makes that all obsolete. If we want vanadium carbides in our steel, now we just add vanadium - think 80CrV2 or S30V. We can also distribute the vanadium carbides much more evenly throughout the steel, so we don't get the patterns that classic Damascus steel has.
Modern Damascus steel is NOT made using the Syrian technique, which is obsolete due to modern metallurgy. It's simply forge welded for the sake of making a pretty pattern. Usually, one of the steels used isn't great - like 15N20, or PMC27 in Damasteel. You'd get better performance using just the better of the two steels, rather than welding them together.
Well said👊 Still ... sometimes it can be quite attractive (I personally really like the pattern on the Civivi Asticus and also on the Praxis😍 whereas that on the McKenna I find ugly as $#it)🤷♂️
@@esoteric5277 The Copper McKenna with the black washed handle and blade is strangely compelling even though i'll probably get the brass one . Usually i'm not a fan of Civivi's "Damascus" and prefer the satin blades .
@@kerryrwac I would generally avoid a coated blade, but a blackwash does look very attractive somehow🥴 I also love the look of copper or bronze on hardware or scales, and it's antimicrobial to boot😷 But coated blades tend to not cut as smoothly. Also heavy metals like bronze and copper add useless weight😫 And then with the price also being higher ... I find the temptation thankfully easy to resist😑
Isnt real Damascus steel patented by an university in Spain?
I’m ready to buy a “Calm Your Pivots” t-shirt. Thanks Nick.
Get a few more thumbs up and we'll be able to fuel a few sprint runs of said t-shirt.
I am in for a sprint run
Honestly lol, I was laughing hard at that one for some reason.
Same
Lol, this should be the 2020 motto: CYP everyone!!
13:40 "Engravings give you no tactical advantage whatsoever" - Naked Snake, 1964
They can give you better grip/traction.
@@chefboiarby304 ua-cam.com/video/xGgWGNfAHiE/v-deo.html
Misconceptions: (1) Knives are scary and bad (2) You need to pay $500 for a good knife (3) A knife has to be huge to be a good knife (4) Knife steel does not matter (5) It's hard to sharpen a knife.
Seriously... #5. A $20 lansky turnbox will let even the biggest moron put a razor edge on a blade. It's pretty foolproof.
knife steel doesn't matter
@@andrewgreiner4681 Well, if you want a knife that keeps an edge, and won't rust easily, then knife steel does matter.
Dean Albertson keeping an edge matters much more on heat treat and edge geometry. The type of steel ranks last amongst these three.
Dean Albertson people that worry so much about rust and edge retention just don’t know how to sharpen or take care of their knives lol
I got into this hobby earlier this year, and I absolutely agree that a newbie could be easily obsessed with high end steels and pays too much attention on steel types. I remember at the beginning I wanted a knife with 8cr steel, then I realized it had a version with D2 steel as well. Diving deeper, I started to see more and more fancy steels with much higher price tags. Naturally I talked to myself: “Wow, I want the baddest and most expensive knife steel I can afford!” Which now I know is quite a naive thought. As I learn more, I realized it’s not all about the steel types, and 8cr has its place in the knife world even though it holds an edge for shorter time; it sharpens easier than a super steel with crazy edge retention. That’s just one example I came up to remind myself not to be obsessed with anything just because it’s “better” and more expensive.
Yup. I can't imagine doing some of the awful things I do with my AUS-8 knives at work with my s30v, s35vn etc knives.
With the modest collection I've accumulated over the years, my hard use, work knife is still my Benchmade 750 Pinnacle, with it's "lowly" ATS-34 blade steel. It holds its edge just fine, it's fairly easy to sharpen and has a rock solid lockup from the titanium framelock. My edc is a small, plain Sebenza 21, it's all the knife I really need during an average day. For outdoors use (in the woods or fishing mostly), I carry my 750 along with one of my ESEE fixed blades with its 1095 steel. ESEE and Rowan are experts at heat treating 1095.
look at victorinox, their knives use a quite soft steel, but it "cant" rust and its super easy to sharpen, its their trademark :D
Since I have a decent knife collection, 8Cr13MoV or Aus 8 is a good steel for me. I can tune it up quickly on my Lansky Turnbox and I don't have to worry as much about chipping. I do have some other steels in the collection like 440c and D2, but softer is easier for me to quickly get extremely sharp.
I remember when i thought 154cm was the blade lenght...😳
love those 5 foot pocket knives!
That if Batman calls it a gem then you got to have it. That you need a lot of different style knifes, that you need really expensive knifes. For me I have found I have knives from 3 companies all have a hole or a flipper tab, and I prefer the cost between 100 - 150 dollars as that’s a comfortable spot to carry and use.
Nick's points about not relying on a singular reviewer remind me of reading books on philosophy: none have ticked absolutely all the boxes for me, but one can synthesize the good from multiple sources. Also, the process of finding those points of difference are an opportunity to examine what it is you're seeking.
You could also add: *local laws* to the list of things under "availability" as just because you might be able to buy it, using/carrying the knife might be a different thing altogether!
Here in Germany a knife that has a one handed opening mechanism AND locks is not something you can carry around with you everywhere...
I ended up getting a CRKT CEO in a british edition (Heinnie Haynes) because that one is a two handed opener but is otherwise identical to the regular one.
I liked the style but wanted to carry it with me and actually use it instead of merely having it in a drawer at home so that was the only alternative available.
We have the opposite problem in America. For some reason, as lenient as our knife and gun laws are in most states, everybody seems to think that everything is illegal. It's baffling
Alex Gentry yeah that’s true. There was a cashier at the grocery store I used to work at who took a knife out of her purse to cut a coupon out for a customer, wasn’t even an auto or anything just a traditional slip joint large stockman, the largest blade was probably about three inches. Then the customer said “you’d better not let them find that if you get pulled over” and all I was thinking was 🤯 this woman does not need to be walking around alone. I live in Kentucky and we can carry any blade we want to here. There was one customer who was in that same store almost on a daily basis and he always had a 7” or so Buck fixed blade on his hip, he was a nice guy and there was no problems.
I must admit I found it hard at first to determine from reviews whether a knife was actually good for regular use, or mediocre with good looks and features. Especially the focus on stuff like 4-way clips, handle looks (not ergonomics), made in [blabla], screw choices and whatnot affects review judgement so much, while it really doesn't matter if you want to use the damn thing as a tool (t6/t8 choice notwithstanding). Not that I don't care about looks, convenience and uniqueness (on the contrary), but I feel like the distinction between a user perspective and a enthusiast perspective is lost in reviews more often than not.
I really like these longer listenable videos/discussions for when I'm driving or working on something.
For me the main misconception I see is the "best knife". I'll see in knife groups people often ask what's the best knife you can buy for under $500. There's never a x fits all case. It's part of the reason real knife owners become collectors, different knives for different occasions. A knife brand I haven't seen covered on this channel is qsp. I subscribe to going gears edc club box and this month was a qsp Damascus hawk folder. One of the smoothest and probably one of my new favorite sub $100 knives I own. Worth looking in to.
That's not quite true. The best knife is the one you're looking at purchasing, rather than the one you just purchased or the one you took out of the cart.
The biggest “misconception” I had coming into the knife world was underestimating its sheer magnitude. In my mind, it was “spyderco, opinel, buck and a few dozen others that nobody cares about”. NOPE, WRONG...like guitars (my main hobby/profession), it’s basically endless...
UA-cam randomly suggested this. Very good information and thank you for your knowledge. But when the guy showing the knives has a bandaid on his finger it made me chuckle a bit
Nick, Great Video! I purchased a good number of knives with "Poor Slicing Geometry" early on in my knife journey. A good design in D2 is really all I need. That said the appetite for ZDP189, LC200N, M4, and M390 is strong in this one... Your point of view is much appreciated. Thanks again. : )
I appreciate your info thank you. I have " collected " fairly basic or crappy knives for 30 years. Got to spyderco value line and started liking higher quality stuff. Bought a lionsteel / nutnfancy knife a year ago. Just bought a montery bay large carry today. Like the build design and like the clean look. The one knife i have wanted more than a year is the slyce bowie.. sorry about my spelling. It just seems like knife that would fit my style a lot. I am not worried about blade steel .. or custom makers.. just interested in some higher quality that makes me happy. 300 dollars is my most expensive knife so far. Dont need 20 of them. Just a few .
The assumption that the more expensive the knife, the better the quality. I love how my co-workers compare their Hinderer to my native 5 maxamet. Just leaves a grin on my face
your videos are always so well put together, I always lookout for your new ones and keep that notification on. always informative and honest
This is a great video and very helpful for new collectors. That being said, the Damascus thing is a problem. Paying way more for something that is fancy and pretty, but functions worse, is exactly like buying a Mercedes for your commuter car. If you have one “EDC” knife and it is Damascus, then you may be missing the point.
When I first started collecting Knives I didn't care about the Steel on it, I just bought any knife that looked cool. When I started learning more about steals, I realized I bought a lot of knife with just "stainless steel" that was my noobi mistake lol. But I don't regret buying them. In my opinion, it's a good idea to buy a cheap knife now and then, so you can really understand the quality and the reason why you buy higher end knives. Great video by the way. ^w^
That blue Protech Malibu with Damasteel is beyond beautiful 😍. Thank you Nick, great video.
One of my most disappointing misunderstandings when a newbie was expecting knives to come in perfect. Most have small dings or scratches upon arrival. Some have more serious issues, such as blade play, for which you def should return the knife. But once I kinda lowered my expectations for production knives, I was a lot more content.
"But I payed X* dollars for this. It should be PERFECT!"
*I be seen X be literally any number.
I feel like, Nick Shabazz is using every possibility to show off his collection.
Perhaps but valuable Info nonetheless plus maybe he's had to much coffee
But it is an impressive collection I don't mind seeing
Maybe a little flex. But I had to work with what I've got around :D
bigly
Yes.
Yes please.
This is a video that anyone going down the rabbit hole 🕳️ of knife collecting should watch
For me, design is the most important thing, together with function. I look for outstanding lines and masses, that work well together. What does that mean? Hard to explain, but when you have it, you tend to exclaim “nice!” If that impression holds up under analysis, it might be a masterpiece!
I tend to favor larger knives in the $40 to $60 range with at least D2 blade steel. After buying and selling/giving away most of my initial knife collection, I now know what works best for my bias and I'm able to make better knife purchases. Thanks for this "review"!
I've been into knives for over 20 years, and I really like 440a steel, provided it's well heat-treated. People laugh at 440a, but it's always served me well. You just have to touch it up for 30 seconds when it starts dragging.
@@1800moonSugar , right, but you can't get them razor sharp in just a few minutes.
@@1800moonSugar interesting...
@@1800moonSugar you've broken heart
@@1800moonSugar you are superior man
Why would you show me the front flipper trapper if you wanted me to cool my pivots???????
Exactly what I was thinking! Some day, I must have one.
@@Crusty_Otter there is a production virgin of it
Great video Nick. Great info and advice. Btw, I’m absolutely in LOVE with your Malibu and Specter. So nice.
I really appreciate how much time he puts into his videos, had this been around years ago when I first got into the knife world I would have saved myself so much money
“All the steel in the world ain’t gonna save ya.”
Words to live by, Nick.
Very valuable video, Nick. Class act on your part to take the time to help folks new(ish) to the hobby. I could have used it in 1990(+-) when I fell headlong into knife lust myself.
Hope all is well with you & the missus. Y'all stay safe! & thanks for the high quality content!
All valid points but I tend to start with the handle. If it does not fit my hand for the intended purpose it’s useless to me. Everyday use has to be easy to sharpen. How hard you intend to use the knife determines folder or fixed blade. Convenience of carry shows me how practical a purchase this will be. Blade shape and grind lets me fine tune my decision. The type of blade steel and temper is left to how well you trust the maker cuz you don’t know until you use it and only then you may suspect you do not have what you paid for. Gems like Nick attempt to guide you in the right direction but you will never really know until it is in your hand and you are using it for its intended purpose. All that being said, Nick did guide me to the Rat 1 with D2 steel and it is still my favourite everyday folder although I do now realize that I prefer fixed blades for durability and handle comfort for long term use. A Mora Companion HD will take you a long way for $20-$30 CAD. A Terava Jaakarripukko will last you a lifetime for under $100 CAD. I did not get into watches cuz Nick, a wise man, said so.
Great video. Should be very helpful for the new guys. I used to share many of the misconceptions you've mentioned.
I agree that some some people confuse "custom", or designed based on my choices and there's only one in the world, with "hand made", or I'm a new knife maker and can't afford any machines.
I'm surprised that you didn't mention that people tend to associate weight with quality. You know, like when someone used to Mtechs made out of mystery pot metal with weight of a neutron star handles Manix LW and says: 'Wow, this feels like a cheap piece of garbage.' while it's actually much more durable and higher quality.
I've had that with people holding my mini Bugout
@@samnottheotherone4363 in that case they were right imo. those scales are crap
@@bigsean2473 I haven't had any problems with them, it's comfortable and the action is smooth. It's not meant to be a heavy use knife, I use it when I need a sharp one and carry my kershaw as a beater.
For me manufacturing quality is the most important to my with design following. I think you got it right. Steel most people don't need premium steel.
I'm kinda to the point of wanting multiple high end production over customs, not only due to the larger following providing fun discussions but due to the reason that they are pretty much on par with fit and finish, while also being semi-regular production where you cab find the knife
Another nice Nick video. I like the HRC point. My knives are workers and my Rex 45 and Maxamet steels are certainly as hard or harder than my cruwear but are super unforgiving and time consuming to freehand sharpen. The cruwear is a breeze to sharpen and get super sharp, the edges last for a long time. We're done here.
Happy to see you again Nick!!!! and more awesome things for me to learn!!! hahahahha #KnifeNoob here
A lot of non knife people think that if you carry a pocket knife you're looking to stab someone. I usually have to explain that a non-locking knife would more than likely close up on the wielder's fingers, and go on to demonstrate the effect.
I love your Holt Spector custom.. Please do a video on this incredible blade.. Thanks
Love this video, what is that cool custom with the special mechanism?
Nice walk thru Nick! Have to agree with the new coined slogan "Calm your Pivots"!!
Hi Nick, your building one hell of a beautiful Collection!!! Thank you for your vids. Have a great day
So much I'd like to "add" but, yea...
In the end You become your own expert. I totally respect all the great things Mr. Shabazz has to say about any knife. He was 70% repsonsible for moving me from the "ignorant / noob / tactikewl" world of knives into the adult world of quality knives. These days I know enough to be able to argue some fine points, but most importantly Own my preferences instead of living by other's.
A great example is the ZT 095bw. Nick liked it but wasn't sold on it, where it is probably my most liked edc. First, I personally Love harpoon blades. Being able to get your thumb out there comfortably is major important to some of my tasks. Mr. Shabazz clearly doesn't need that functionality. And one of the things you learn as you mature is: That is Ok. We each use our knives differntly so expect different things.
I've used that ZT 95 to make a ham sandwich. Cut the fresh bread, cut the ham off the bone, cut the tomatoes, cheese, lettuce, spread the mayo. You'd think the width would make it a bad cheese knife but the thinness makes it work (the blade is almost identical to the Essee Ezula). I use the ZT 95 to cut blackberries back in the parking lot. Don't want those scratching people's paint. Open boxes, pop blisters, shave pine and oak, and on and on. It has served me well. The ZT s35vn steel works for me. It gets beyond shaving sharp, and holds that edge long enough for me.
Meanwhile, I know Spyderco is a great brand. My brother loved them when he was alive. 1) I don't like serrations. Not for me. and 2) I do not know why but that big circle cutout irritates me to no end. I will never buy a Spyderco. Still a very well respected knife maker.
And you know what. That is Ok.
It wont stop me from sharpening my edge by watching Mr. Shabazz.
Rock on, Sir!
"Everyone is biased" Thanks for your honesty. BTW I have a North Arm Skaha 2 and a CJRB, Centros, which I know you like. But I prefer my Kizer Domin Mini - which you totally dismiss. Different strokes, I guess.
I like a knife that is not only incredibly useful but so sweet as to show that I am at "that really comfortable place in life" where I can have and use very nice and enviable stuff!
I seldom show mine to anybody-few can appreciate a high end folder,or a high end watch,but I appreciate them!
@@tonyochoa7097 I use my knives a surprising amount and I let people use them too (not for prying or cutting up against hard surfaces). I have always appreciated the feel of quality items and I like the look people give a really good knife when they first handle it and the occasional "nice knife" comment. But yeah, I don't just whip out my cool knife just to show people unless maybe it's my best friend and I'm excited about it 🤗
Have you done a full review of the Quiet Carry Waypoint? I can't find one on your channel, and would love to get your perspective.
I see many of your knives are plain edged.
Can you tell me why you prefer plain edged over combo blades? Thank you, in advance, for your answer, Sir.
Be well and thank you for your awesome channel.
Great video as always. The other misconception today (especially about folders) is that they must without any shadow of a doubt be able to be whacked on their spine by a big lump of wood or bashed into something as u would an axe; and not collapse LOL! In fact there is (as you already know) a great lot of Social Media "definitions" building to support this myth.
My current edc is an Adler made German Army Knife. Hoping to get a Benchmade 940 when I can. Seems like a perfect knife for what I use a pocket knife for plus the warranty. Buy once, cry once.
Nick “the mad scientist knife pro”! Amazing information thank you for the detailed explanation! Learn something new every time I watch your videos!😎
I often don’t agree with some of the stuff you say, Nick. Especially about Benchmade, but I love watching your videos because you’re a straight shooter. In fact, you’re review of the PM2 was why I went out and bought one despite having the hands of a 12 year old lol.
Brand new to the knife hobby and glad I found this video. Thanks for dropping some knowledge for people to reference!
You made some great points on this one. Of all the knives you've shown, that Peña Trapper... oh BABY, I need one!
I used to think that “the type of steel is the only thing that matters!” Then I got the paragon Phoenix in s30v. They completely did a terrible job with the heat treatment. I have a spyderco pm2 in s30v. And it was soooo much better. The Phoenix lost its edge after a week carrying. It wouldn’t even cut paper. That’s crazy for s30v.
And have found benchmade does a great job with s30v
john soble yes and no. Soyderco doesn’t have as good of quality control in terms of heat treatment. So, if you get a bad heat treated knife (in s30v) that’s why. But, I prefer spydercos designs and the signature “spydiehole”. The only design I like from benchmade is the barrage. But I haven’t had a chance to check one out bc they aren’t at any stores that I’ve been too. And I like to try a knife out before I buy it. Bc, as we all know... you get the honeymoon period and then realize how much this knife sucks and is overpriced haha.
Mate, I just bought a Böker Magnum blue dot in 440a for £12 because I liked the simple design AND it slices like you wouldn't believe AND that's what it will be mostly doing. If I want to use a knife as a trowel then I will get out my heavily (naturally) patinated £11 Mora Robust which constantly has dirt in the plastic sheath. Such is the subjective nature of the tools you have and what you want them to do for you.
personally, as long as it has the Nick Shabazz seal of approval, I'll enjoy it.
I remember your old PM2 review as being Good (based on a scale of Good, Great, Bad, and Ugly) -- I have larger hands than most and that knife is perfect for me, I'm still carrying it
So much information. Appreciate it, still new and videos like this are so great for teaching me about this hobby.
a note about hardness, the harder the steel the easier it is to snap and chip like glass.
drill bits as an example are super hard, and that's why they tend to explode when they break, they are like glass, if they were softer they couldn't drill into harder metal and they would twist like a pasta screw if they got stuck on a burr.
Great video! Glad I watched, came looking for answers and leaving with even more questions:) HA! But many of my questions were answered. Thanks for sharing...
One misconception is that all butterfly knives are dangerous. They're only dangerous if they're dagger style or if you're an idiot.
Great points my friend. and love the "calm your pivots" line....LOL good job.
Flea market finds can be real gems or they don’t make them like they used to. Steel is steel if it’s done right.
Determine what you are using a knife for. Use them. Don't break the bank" until you've experimented with blade steels, shapes, opening mechanisms, or handle materials until you realize your preference. Then upgrade. My wife has high end chef's knives whereas I have low budget beater experiment tools. We use knives differently. Take advantage of people that know more than you and adapt it to fit your preferences.
I came to the exact same conclusion as you did with diminishing returns, I always tell people that are interested in knives 150-200 is kind of the cut off point from what I've experienced. If you want a decent knife you pretty much get everything you need at 200,, the more you go past 200 you really don't see much improvements in materials, action, ergos, durability etc. You can lay down 150-200 on a knife and get everything top spec, the best steel type, super smooth action, solid lock up, great ergonomics. The more you go past 200 the less you gain in terms of bang for your buck. Then there's the ugly side of it, when you handle a knife that costs 300+ and you think it isn't as good quality as a knife you paid 150 for. Or you see a knife you love that costs 290, then you find out it's running on teflon washers, that really doesn't excite me.
That Malibu is a beauty. I just purchased a spyderco urban in m690. It was about 64 dollars and it's perfect. Oh Legal too.
No Nick, bad advice.
You are the only source of info I need, cause im NOT getting into watches
Besides the Spyderco what were the last 3 in the won’t rust part?
Dear Nick, could you pls tell where tyou got he Clip for the Spydie Advocat from? thank you for your content from black forest germany.
You can find them on EBay. I'd sell you mine but the shipping cost probably wouldn't be worth it.
I'm trying to find what part of your video caters to a newbie.
One youtuber mentioned a knife for dining or a knife for weddings?? As if there is an EDC for formal occasions. I can’t see myself pulling a knife at a wedding unless at the reception a box needed to be opened.
I noticed you only have stainless steel and not non reflecting black blades. Is it just a preference or is there something to it? I'm new to the knife world and you opinions are welcome 🙏
Personal preference. Although some coatings do wear away over time.
I am not really in the knife world, I started using knives in a world very different to the one you inhabit. My mum was a cook, and knives were her trade, there was nothing special about the steel, they were carbon steel and sharpened until they wore out. That is the way my dad used knives too. I broke the tip off his old army knife using it to pry. I am a gardener and I use vintage carbon steel, made by long dead blacksmiths, none of this fetishism about unobtanium alloys. For everyday use Opinels are as good as anything, I have a Martinii Puuko I have had for years, so long there are nicks on the blade cos it has had a hard life. So far as folders are concerned, I do not think there is better quality than a Victorinox SAK, they are just so well made, yeah even compared to a Spyderco or fancy knife. I have owned enough bad knives to know what works for me. It is rare that anything happens in the knife world that really impresses me, but the new Victorinox Farmer X has, it has got everything I want for an everyday knife.
What makes some blade steels better than others? 3 Three components: 1# Heat Treatment + 2# Grind/Geometry + 3# Steel Chemistry
Bottom of my canoe ? You went deep today Nick. thanks.
The most kick ass blade I have is a Buck 110 custom in a drop point S30V with the Boss heat treatment. Honestly, just a crazy blade. 🤷🏻♂️
"Just kinda calm your PIVOTS!!!" the legend of Nick
Excellent video and subject. Thank you.
What a treat!
Visually, information-wise and on the one-liner front.
Thanks Nick!
#dontfeedtheparasites
Have you been leftie spiderflicking?
Your index...
I'm new to your channel and not sure if you respond to comments, but I have a question. I just picked up an Endura Super Gold and a Calypso Jr Super Blue. I understand that these are special editions for the steel specifically, on the spectrum of general good/bad, where do these actually land? I have a small understanding of the difference, but I'd like to hear the opinion of some one with more expertise in metallurgy. Viewers are also welcome to answer these questions, would prefer no anecdotal responses. Thank you :)
The Skaha II is just an awesome knife! Great action and nice Carbon fiber
Great video Nick, you talk a lot of sense. 🤗❤️👍✌️🤘👋😷
Hey NIck, which knife bit you? Saw the bandage.
Just a bit of eczema, alas!
Nick what is that yellow scaled knife?
Not a misunderstanding but might be usefull to share it to anyone considering a kme. Get a base! I got mine today about a year after I bought my KME and even though it can be used without it, the control the base gives is a major improvement.
It's a shame that they offer the base as an add-on, it really should come standard. But I agree, the base makes sharpening so much easier. I got a bentobox spyderco military in s90v, blue g10 yesterday, and the secondary bevel grind is not even on both sides. Wider on one side compared to the other, and it didn't come extremely sharp. I'm going to regrind it evenly with the kme. Having the base is going to make the job way easier than without.
@@abc456f yeah I never understood why it isn't standard. The retailer I bought the system from didn't even stock the base which may make some not even know that it's an option.
@@ribstein7714 I bought everything directly from their website, but after watching so many videos on the kme, I knew I was going to get the base. I've lost count on how much I've spent in total, started with their base model including the base, added the 50 and 100 grit stones, a couple of lapping films, kangaroo strop with emulsion, recurve rod, and jewel stick. My first sharpening system was the spyderco sharpmaker with fine and extra fine rods which does a decent job. Then I tried the Lansky which I didn't like right out of the box and returned it. The kme is expensive but worth it to me. Allows me to to be more precise and if I put in the time, I can get a beautiful mirror polish. Not that it's needed but it sure looks good!
@@abc456f it really is an excellent product. Regarding the 50 and 100 grit stones. Do you belive fhat they are worth it? Sharpening beat up kitchen knives and the like can be a pain.
@@ribstein7714 If you need to regrind the edge, I'd highly recommend the 50 and 100 grits. They can remove a lot of material in a much shorter time than the higher grits. Just don't use much pressure, let the stones do the work or you'll remove too much steel.
Oz Roosevelt for me, especially with the option of washers.
I am wondering about rust resistant knives. I get that the blades are resistant to rust or corrosion, but what about the other parts of the knives? I am a fisherman and have tossed many knives due to rust issues due to being forgotten in the tackle box. I need a fishing knife that if I forget about it for a year, it will not rust? I have been eyeing the Spyderco line but wonder about the other parts? Any recommendations?
Spyderco's Salt series and the QuietCarry pieces are very careful about making *everything* rustproof.
Great video Nick. Thank you
Don't feed the parasites!!! Next to, let's have a whale of a time, my all time favorite Nick Shabazz quote.
Great discussion! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Nick. Love your videos, be it a review or philosophy, Keep them coming
I own a Sharp by design void but yours with that inlay is beautiful sir! And no my Specter or Void is not for sale either 😂 seriously!
The better I get at sharpening and reprofiling the less I worry about the steel
That's a very good and important video!
Too many people jump right in and obsess over what's strongest fastest , stays sharp forever, and is the most tacticool.
They do this not knowing a more modest thinner bladed knife that just cuts really well is a better place to start, start there then decide if for some reason you need a pocket knife that van handle misuse and abuse.
22:08 the reason I don't have a strider DB is because I won't pay 600$ for a 325$ knife. Its a sad time in the knife game, especially if your looking for the best tools and you're not a collector.
Have you sharpened that Carbide blade? It looked like a KME edge.
Nope, that's factory.
The CJRB Feldspar in D-2 is the last knife you will ever need, and it's under 40 bucks.
Except that it's ugly.
So is your mom, yet here you are....
@@jacknemo8021 She's hot enough that your mom did her.
Great meaning of knife review, thanks 👍👍