Which Budget Blade Steel Cuts the Longest?
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- Опубліковано 1 вер 2020
- cedric-ada-store.creator-spri...
Good gravy its bricky on things
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I'm glad to see that our Feldspar made the cut! We're really happy with the heat treat that we've been able to get on our D2, especially in the CJRB line!
Yes, your D2, and steelwill's D2 are rather some of the finer examples of D2.
Artisan Cutlery i own a few of your cjrb knives, my favorite so far being the centros with carbon fiber scales. What is it that is setting this D2 steel apart? is it coming out with a higher Rockwell hardness or treated for toughness?
The blade on the centros worried me at first as i am used to thicker stock but it has proven itself a working knife. In fact the thinner blade stock makes it even more handy than a lot of the old drop point blades I used to carry.
@@josephdecker0 civivi's d2 is awesome too
Zack Schumann There are a couple i would like to own, i just wish civivi made frame locks on knives like the elementum and bullmastiff. big knives with a liner lock seems.....wrong. especially when i can feel the liner lock pushing out during heavier use.
I love y’alls knives,just ordered the burlap micarta tomahawk from SMKW...I feel like I could chop down a tree with my brass Osprey..lol..I have bought any of the CJRB knives yet but definitely plan on doing so...wish I could afford to buy one of those titanium/timascus knives with the Damascus blades but they are out of my price range
If you are already familiar with Pete's testing methods, results start at 7:55.
Thank you!
I've been EDCing 14c28n for six months or so and I love it. It instantly became my new favorite value steel
It’s my favorite budget steel too. 14c28n is tougher than LC200N and even has the same edge retention. And people perceive LC200N as a “premium steel” and companies like spiderco certainly charge a premium price for it. I recently got a Civivi with 14c and I’m really impressed with it.
"budget steels" shows how spoiled we are these days.
100 years ago people would kill for those steels
People will laugh at the steels we have today a 100 years from now.
Imagine the bronze age
@@X8X8X6X4X Ceramic
@Kaysen Rowen shut up
@@bradleynathanael1454 2nd fake account
Just finally got my pocket knife shaving sharp using 80 grit sandpaper, random mistery grit pocket stone, a brick, and leather strop. I was normal before I watched this channel I think.
Pete thanks for the work you put in.
One of my most favorite knives ever was the Spyderco Military in CPM D2.
I had that edge scary thin, cut like a monster. The CPM process tames the beast and makes it a crazy good slicer.
Bohler does it now with K110.. it’s just D2 done better.
I always enjoy the knife lab thanks Pete. Side by side side budget steels great topic, Everything doesn't need to be a Super Steel., a budget beater with a good action is fun to have around as well.
14c28n is definitely my favorite budget steel, ive always gotten pretty solid performance from it.
I like it also. It is similar to vg10. I personally don’t like D2 steel.
@@DamionJR4923 why not?
Money Mark It rusts pretty easily. I would rather have a straight carbon steel (1095, O1, Mora’s carbon steel, A2 or similar). It can be a pain to sharpen. It doesn’t keep a razor edge very well. It keeps a tooth edge for a while. Overall I would rather have a stainless steel pocket knife and a tougher less chippy steel for a fixed blade. I have a pretty limited use of it but didn’t like it enough to want more of it. There are so many options now. So I generally choose not to get D2.
@@DamionJR4923 14c28n shouldnt be rusting very readily, ive noticed surface rust on plenty of steels but thats not one ive ever had an issue with.
Matt Tripp no D2 steel. I like 14c28n sharpens real easy. Pretty rust resistant fairly tough.
I think the 14C28N got a bit of a disadvantage because of the blade of the metamorph. It doesn't have the height of the other blades so not as much taper down. CJRB does a good heat treat on their D2. Cold steel does Aus8 and Aus10 very well.
Enjoyed the cut off. I still like 14C28N over D2 mainly for rust resistance plus it cuts close enough to D2 and is easier to get a svreaming edge on.
This channel is such a gem. Keep up the good work Pete 👍
Thanks very much for the work you put in to bring us these type of videos.
I love your testing and your sense of humor. I enjoy all your videos regardless of content. Keep up the good work sir. Also thank you for your stance on sprint runs, I agree.
Great to see you revisiting the basics. Thanks!
You bet!
Without even being aware of it, I had been waiting for you to do this video! Thank you.
I came to this channel for Pete and the knives, I stayed for Bricky 👌🏻
Great work sir. I always learn from you and your labor. Never stop producing good quality testing and good comedy sir!
Confirmed how I felt about those steels from my experiences. Love me some D2. North Texas. No humidity. Never had D2 rust on me at all
I love D2. My local walmart's sell the camillus horizon a really nicely well made decent size ball bearing frame lock deep carry clip D2 knife for only $19.97 at least here in Texas. It used to cost $17.97 but inflation jacked it up by $2.
But still it's a D2 knife that is shockingly well made for under $20 and it's not small. Can easily full hand it. Bit heavy but it's a frame lock. Blade holds such a good edge but it does take me longer to sharpen it. I love how D2 can be had for under $20.
I bet they could make a cheaper $10 with a much thinner and lower height blade and a cheaper liner lock and plastic handle construction with nylon or bronze bushings.
"All will be brick." Bricky seems to be a real prophet. When the world wide nuclear apocalypse finally comes to fruition, most everything will be brick & glass albeit somewhat melted & heat treated.
I was watching & listening to your video while wearing cordless headphones & was busy with something for a moment & glanced away from the screen when an add came on. It was for a tracking device & the robotic voice on the add sounded so much like Bricky that I thought he had interrupted your narration to inform you of his plans to monitor your movements in the future. It took me a while to realise it was an add.
On a more video related note: I for one, much appreciate the time & effort you put into this video comparing the more common steels seen as budget options these days. Although I as many others, your self included no doubt, appreciate the newer "super' steels that are favoured on most quality folders for their durability, have never been hung up on them exclusively & instead care more about design/geometry, practicality in use & maintenance & sharpening, heat treat, etc. It was a worthwhile endeavour on your part & time well spent for anyone watching. Cheers.
Great vid as always. Nice to see some budget steels being compared for once and look forward to seeing bd1 vs bd1n! The latter is one of my favorite non powdered steels along with vg10. Some aus 10 would be interesting also. Cheers!
Great test ,real results keep it up ..I'm a D2 guy living in the midwest no rust problem. My favorite budget steel
I'm a big fan of 14c28n, in terms of its combination of toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance it's very difficult to beat, not only in the budget steel range but even compared to powdered steels
It is that tiny nitrogen content as nitrogen steels seem to have good abrasion resistance without being brittle.
see my comment above re: TwoSun and 520 cuts??
Sorry guys sorry if the cost 420 Buck is dog shit will never get sharp no matter what you do so any other characteristic is pointless
Knaf lab cut tests is why we came to this channel, the humor and presentation is why we stay.
I never get tired of the cut tests. I'd be happy to send you a pile of Manix 2's if you ever wanted to revisit a "same platform, different steels"' test like you did with the Mules. I have them in every steel variety they've been made in, less the early 154 variety. Spy27 is on the way when ever it actually gets released...
One metric that I think should be included in these tests is the length of time it took to sharpen by hand. I find that 440C is the easiest to sharpen while holding a decent edge for an acceptable amount of time. I have had super steel knives that held a good edge twice as long, but took ten times as long to sharpen. They just aren't as worth it on the work scale unless you have mechanised sharpening.
Pete, thanks so much for all the hard work you do for us! It really means a lot...
New to the channel. Drawn in by the knife content but subbed for the AMAZING game music and beautiful doggos. Nice work dude!
thankyou muchly and warm welcomes!
Alright , somebody testing budget steels! OK not just "somebody" but the guy with the knife lab & his masonary sidekick ! Steels everyone can afford to choose from.
Nice! Just bought an Esee Avispa D2 steel so thank u for making me happy 😃 👍🏼
I for one welcome our new brick overlords. All will be brick!
As a trusted TV personality?
Bd1 testing would be great!! I've fallen back in love with my plain jane manix 2
Excellent comparison, thx! Yeah, even the 'cheaper' knife steels like AUS 8 and the 440 stainless steels are actually pretty decent with proper heat treating, and they're essentially the same steel that your grand daddy probably used in his Gillette razor, back when stainless was first invented in the 1920's.
Lol as soon as you said "garage" I thought of that scene from the Simpsons. Excellent as always Pete
nice one uncle pete, great video that'd be very useful to people looking for their first good knife.
I loved this video! I went with Buck knives 420HC because what makes D2 is harder also makes it more brittle and prone to breaking (like at the tip). D2 also rusted if it wasn't properly maintained. The price was also significantly much more than 420HC! After I bought the Buck knives, I gotta say, I love it even more because I found out it's a Made In USA company that stands behind its products!
Not sure what you mean about the D2 being more expensive. The Buck 110 in 420HC he uses in the video is about $65, where the CJRB Feldspar in D2 he uses is more like $35...
@@l1v1dsow26 I was looking at Knives of Alaska D2 Steel. It must be the brand...
Also, I'm very, very happy with Buck! It's a great company I will stand behind 200%!
@@BonaFideWildLife I won't argue with you there. I don't own a buck yet but I'm sure I will soon enough lol
Knives of Alaska uses a friction-forged D2 which is pretty amazing.
Interesting, amusing and useful. A great Bro video, Randy would be proud.
Wow that crjb performed really well. I forgot the channel, but that particular knife underperformed. I think 14c28n is a razor blade steel. It performs good as well. Thanks Pete
Nice to see the 14c28n do so well, I was honestly kinda surprised actually. My main edc I've been carrying for the last few years is in that steel and I've always thought it doesn't hold a great edge for very long, but then again I do use it pretty hard. On the plus side though, it never chips and it never rusts no matter what I get on it and it's very eazy to sharpen.
I love Bricky! I had a couple of Buck 420HC knives for years, without complaint. Only in the last few years did I even know there was anything better. I’m 54 years old and have been collecting knives for 46 years.
Your channel is a lot of fun. I find your geek out content relaxing. I like 12C27 and it keeps a very sharp edge with touch ups. I also really like the Civivvi in 9CR18MOV under appreciated. Close to D2 and more stainless. I like my Bucks.
One more thing, I’ve heard that Kershaw also has a great heat treat on it’s 420 similar to Buck’s Paul Bos heat treat. Has that been your experience just out of curiosity? Thanks!
sandvik 12c27, cold steel aus 8 and cold steel aus 10. I feel cold steel dials in their heat treat. Great steel test video.
Yes. And Cold Steel’s steels perform superbly in all the cut tests I have seen.
I agree Brandon, i would use a Cold Steel in Aus 8 cuz they really know how to get the most out of that steel. Their heat treat is exceptional.
Wow, 420HC outperforming 440C, now that's the difference an average versus great heat treatment makes, never mind a bad heat treatment which can make any steel into play dough.
Great vid as always Pete. Appreciate your feedback and effort.😊👍
Great test and video!
Have you considered creating testing methods to test rust resistance and toughness. It woul be pretty useful and interesting if you could test those aspects of blade steels and combine it with your edge testing. I can't imagine it being fun to do (or even how you would do it without ruining your knives). I just selfishly like to see you do all the hard work and get the info I need from a honest source (i.e your videos). Many other channels just reference your tests, so I think you have really created a niche for yourself. And whats greater than doing something you like, knowing other people enjoy it and benifit from it? So end of long comment: thanks for the hard work! It is of value.
Nice video. I have a QSP Parrot. Their 440C seems on par with Ganzo's. Watching 420HC with a good heat treatment outperform 440C with an iffy heat treatment is a good teaching moment. I know your arm is tired but I'd love to have Kizer's Acuto 440 and 9Cr18Mov from Civivi or Real Steel on the budget table.
Why not the d2
@@otpays8552 For what?
That was a lot of work! Thanks for the video : )
Great video man I always love the music!
Nice job mate. Thanks for the review
For a guy that talks to rocks, you sure do keep me glued to your videos!!!!! 😄👍
An another great review, thanks mate.
That brick part def earned my follow!
UA-cam has led me back to the first video I watched of yours apparently lol. Still great as always
I have a D2 STRIDER karambit, nightmare to sharpen so I gave up trying to carry it since its not as sharp as I want. I carry a Spyderco Endura 4 Emerson and CRKT M16 Big Dog
Thanks for the excellent comparison test you made with limited resources but with a very practical approach. It puts the different blade materials into perspective.
Yet I have one suggestion for you: Maybe you would like to make an additional video of a regular cutter knife with replaceable snap-off blades performing the exact same test. Although without sharpening obviously.
Those snap-off blades are usually made of SK5 carbon steel. And since most people have already used them, it would add another point of reference to your comparison, to which most people could relate to from their personal experience.
Just a suggestion. But would love to see the result.
Cheers
Excellent! Thanks, Pete!
Hey I am a hobby knife maker and I have that Real Steel Metamorph in 14n28, and it has a terrible heat treat, super soft, it's holds an edge but if it would be a little harder and tempered in lower temps the edge retention would be even better. Just my 2ct. Great video man.
great job ,always interesting and entertaining
Bricky's attitude reminds me of Skippy from the Expeditionary Force book series.
Trust the Awesomeness!
@@brettclark8020 Grand Exalted Field Marshall El Supremo
Always good to see some tests.
Edge retention is such a complex topic. Heat treatment is quite important and how you plan to use the knife too.
D2 is rich in carbides so it probably has the best abrasion resistance from the lot but also has the lowest impact resistance.
8Cr13 MoV is usually has bad heat treatment, way too soft. Spyderco is the only brand I know that optimizes it at 60-61HRC.
14C28N most of the times is not optimized. It can have a target hardness of 62-63HRC but usually we get 60HRC or below.
420HC, 8Cr13 and 14C28N have few carbides so they may not perform well on high abrasion tests like rope cutting but they have high impact resistance and edge stability that may allow sharper angle or thinner blade.
Which steel is the best will depend on how you plan to use the knife.
For Kitchen use we don't have to deal with high abrasive materials so clean steel with high apex stability like AEB-L on 63-64HRC sounds like a beast.
EDC knives that will be used with impact I would also go for clean steel.
High abrasion tasks and no impact D2 and powder metallurgy wins for sure.
Would would carving be abrasion
@@otpays8552 I don't carve wood but I have and idea of how the edge will wear out.
Wood has some silica but not too much, also wood is hard material that will induce mechanical fatigue. Certainly both abrasion and fatique will impact durability, the question is how much each will contribute.
I read a study on edge durability for kitchen use comparing wooden board or a plastic one, there was no significant difference. Plastic has no abrasive in it so considering the study was well made, the major factor for edge loss is roling or chipping on both cutting boards.
Another example, Gabe from the Home Slice did 1000 chops on a wood block with a clean steel machete and it was still shaving hair after it. Not a controled test but certainly an impressive durability for a clean steel on wood.
For carving I would prioritize clean steels with high hardness and decent toughness. My bet on great choices would be 13C26 on 63-64HRC, 80CrV2 on 63 HRC or Magnacut on 63HRC. These are just some examples but most steels above 60 HRC that are not brittle should do fine.
Wood carving also has some specific sharpening tips. Aggressive toothy edge is not helpfull since you are push cuting. Polished edge will cut better and last longer. Also make sure you dont have foil burr so finish edge leading on an a fine stone and do only a couple passes on loaded pasted strops.
Nice test Pete! Curious how N690 fits in to the mix. Seeing a bunch of budget knives with it. Thanks for sharing!
Weird but objective knife testing! Subscribed! 420HC should be the benchmark. Not the greatest but gets the job done which is the point. Scrape paint, cut carpet, sharpen, take deer hunting, make peanut butter sandwiches camping…the Buck 110 has done it all!
I second this Buck 110 420hc. Paul Bose treatment. cuts everything not the wallet
Vg10, 154cm, ats-34, and n690 are all the same family of steel with name changes to differentiate where they come from. This line of steel was designed to be a direct upgrade to 440c in almost every way.
D2 or 14C28N is obviously going to win this, my money is on one of those.
Edit: that D2 is pretty well done, it beat 14C28N by more than I thought it would. Nice.
what is it about 14c28n, it looks rather plain on paper but this good result truly seems to be a shared, repeated experience from a lot of users.
@@CedricAda I love 14C28N it always surprizes me when my E775 Griffin is still sharp after doing a bunch of heavy cutting with it. that tiny bit of nitrogen really seems to give it a kick up the arse.
Quality video, humor, quirk, experience and science 👍🙏 edit ✍️ I think ya best I’ve watched 10/10
Love your test
Thanks for working so hard in your car hole to bring us answers!
I can remember when D2 was top of the line and I paid what I thought was a pretty penny for a Benchmade 806 AFCK in the early 2000s iirc. D2, G10, axis lock and great ergos. I gave just over $100, probably $300 knife in today's money. Amazing to think you can get all of these features today from multiple manufacturers for a paltry $50 or $60, maybe less.
I think the old Benchmade 710 was the first popular knife with D2. Years ago, it was one of its big selling points
Please include also in future test a Mora knive. I'm really keen how a sandvik still is gonna hold the edge. Nice music - almost like Amiga or other 8-bit computers 😀👍
"No, SAK, this is not about you!"
SAK: :*(
I like the shirt.
Do not tell Bricky to shut up. He is wiser than anyone!
14c28n, doesn't rust, great toughness, easy to sharpen, edge retention almost as good as d2, I prefer 14c over most lower end powdered stainless that chips or breaks if you look at it wrong, it's perfect if you actually use your knife vrs staring at it🤠
That last shot with one arm looking way bigger than the other made me laugh.
Well, I put my money on D2 and 14C28N. Great vids, as always.
I love D2. Not that hard to sharpen but holds its own.
Wonder how CPM D2 fares better.
No benefits to it being in powder form
@PESTIL3NCE yeah powdered steel is a lot better compared to normal
You know the funny thing nothing is hard to sharpen nowadays because diamond stones an plates have made sharpening easy. In the old days 420 was a pain to sharpen my favorite steel is cts-xhp then m390 but budget aus 10 is getting it done. Really aus 8 was fine an 8cr is very easy to get shave sharpen
14c28n isn't a budget steel. It's the highest performing stainless steel there is before you get into powder metallurgy and the supersteel realm. The cost is very good due to it being a conventional steel, but its better described as an affordable premium steel.
so… you’re saying it’s a budget steel, just a really good budget steel. budget refers to price point.
👌@@acid6urns
D2 still had better edge retention over 14C28N overall. And that's my sticking point. I need it to cut for longer. I'm not worried about corrosion as I don't work around water.
@@OEFvet0311 I’m with ya. Non-stainless is better in every way except for corrosion resistance. And there are a million ways to prevent corrosion including polishing, coating, oil and wax, paint, cleaning, etc. even carnuba car wax works wonders.
What most people want to know is what steel is the easiest to sharpen in the field and hold its edge the longest WITHOUT specialist sharpening equipment or spending 3 days sharpening the blade. If I get stuck in the wilderness for any reason I want to be able to hone my knife on a rock, and not have to carry a $300 sharpening kit with me and spend the next month in blizzard conditions sharpening my knife.
Correct. I have to take down 40ft containers filled with boxes. Cutting straps and cardboard all day including popping staples. I've used an 8cr Kershaw One Ton for years doing this. Insane abuse. Why? because I can strop it on the container if I needed. It's been now replaced with a Voyager.
No steel snob is doing that with their fancy $150+ pocket jewelry. In my mind so called "budget" steels are doing more cutting than the fancy shit
G'day, eh. Pete, I enjoy all of your videos for their entertainment value and the steel knowledge they impart. Steels are my passion and I would like to have knives in every steel type, but that won't happen. I did pick up a Spyderco Para 3 in SPY27 recently and would love to see your cut test on that steel. I am most curious as to where in your list it will fit.
I like your knife test procedure, though I haven't done it myself but because I feel it is something that anybody could duplicate is they chose to do so. Cutting rope is a very common task and an easy one to relate to. Thanks for your efforts over the years.
thanks man! ive got a manix on the preorder in spy27 myself!
154CM is one of my favorite blade steels. Sharpens pretty easily, and holds the edge really well for the cost. I’m not sure it falls in the budget steel category though.
Did you know 154 CM has three names? Originally it was the Japanese ATS 34 and there is the RWL 34 and 154 CM CPM
Oui c'est un acier excellent mais il reste cher.
tops knocks it out of the park with 154cm
I'm starting to go back to 154CM and 440C. I've recently put all my "super duper" steel knives in a box and there they sit. I've been grabbing as many 3 dot 1980-81 Buck 110's as I can which was the last year they used the better 440C heat treated by Paul Bos. Another reason I like the 3 dot Buck 110 is no pocket clip (pocket clips destroy my pants so I'm done with them), thicker heavier squared off bolsters and no internal parts! No springs, screws, bushings that could fail. Just a strong lock bar and spring bar and one piece metal bolsters. All boxes checked in my opinion. Plus, just to add for fun, it has killed Grizzlies before.
@@MountainFisherCPM is different. It’s the powder version. Pretty different really.
New to the channel, loved the bit about Bootes void.
8:43 that had me laughing pretty hard. Keep up the great videos!
I for one welcome our new brick overlords.
Gotta wonder if that 440c heat treatment was done by the same folks who do the two sun S90v.
14c28n is criminally underrated/underused. Cuts almost as long as D2, very tough for a stainless and it's very corrosion resistant. Not h1/lc200n/vanax level rust proof, but in the next tier.
Agreed
how is this the perfect youtube channel? Just.... how
Thanks for doing this video- its a ton of work!
I always considered 14c to be higher tier than the rest, with 12c being more entry level budget (mora, victorinox, and opinel) but maybe those steels are BELOW budget. (I still love them haha)
13c is aeb-l which i also feel like is in a higher tier- people Lloovvee their aebl-
But how you tier steels is subjective (and i enjoyed your tier list) based on what you want in a steel, and i was actually impressed with 14c's performance here!
Hey, in your experience, are the dozier kabar knives in D2 superior to all other d2 knives like boss 420?
Great job you two.
It's all about heat treatment fellas. I have lots of d2 and it's definitely a good steel if it's treated right. I couldn't believe it was d2 when I bought my sencut because it felt like a premium steel on the stone and made a nice crisp burr, not at all difficult to remove. Some companies just do an amazing job with it, others have no clue, or just don't care about it, and slap the d2 label on, and heat it up till it gets hard enough to pass, and out the door.
I like that you use a sharpie on the blades - a reminder that these are just tools and not some holy object that must not be sullied.
Well in my country the D2 and 14c28n knives are 2 to 2.5 times more expensive than the other listed steels , so I think they performed just about right . Although i am a bit surprised 440c underperformed like that .
perfect video. thanks for feeding my knife brain some fresh knowledge. lol
Thanks for all you do, your tests are still a benchmark for me. Have you tried cold steels aus10? Harry
yeah! theres a video on it too: ua-cam.com/video/2CoQnIyv-eE/v-deo.html
hope it helps! its good stuf
Perception.. and marketing is powerful. Today a performing steel gets labeled budget due to the creation of and massively elevated price of a new steel.
Yes sir......AUS 8 has served me well for probably over 15 years.
D2 has been a godsend here in America land. I can scoop these up for $20-50. The jury is still out how these will hold up, but I find these very sharp but difficult to sharpen correctly.
Strop is key 1-13 micron diamond paste and finish on green compound hard leather 😉almost too sharp diamond is key with D2
Eafengrow..........
Always nice to see some classic knife lab content. But where's the intro?
I love my Boker Kalishnikov Sub D2 auto. It's a great cheap auto with an awesome opening snap that rivals my Protech Runt Auto. You can also buy parts for the Sub at BladeOps. D2 steel is what they cut other steels with. It's as hard as petrified poop and holds an edge forever. The Sub was like $45. and has become my EDC for almost a year now. BTW, I had a Boker AUS-8 Kalishnikov Mini Tanto that SUCKED so bad, I gave it to my nephew for his first auto. Felt like one of those toy comb switchblades. The Sub is rock solid.
I'll take 14c28n sandvik any day😎👍
440c or the 14c28n for me in a hunting knife.
@@craigcook1571 😎👍💯💯... I don't know what it is about 14c28n but it just hits that sweet spot at a price level that just perfect... the only other steel that I like I believe is called H1 but I only use that on my fishing equipment when I'm going down doing saltwater fishing and whatnot... Anyways, have a great day 😎✌️
@@TwitchRadio440c holds an edge good, is reasonably easy to sharpen and is decently tough for a good hunting knife.
I also use a knife made with 14c28n and it also is suitable.
I’m not a fan of 420hc and can’t get it to hold an edge even through one deer. The only thing it’s good for to me is a beater knife as in using it for task I wouldn’t put a good knife through so I don’t own many knives with that steel.
Fantastic video!!!!!
9cr18mov seems to be a great budget option as well
There's more to steel than carbon content which he seems to mention repeatedly but glad he puts it to the test. I'd take a "low end" with an exceptional heat treat over "high end" steel with a bad heat treatment. I'm partial to 14C28 or D2 depending on the application.
Oh man...FF5 into music! My second time watching a video of yours, and FF starting both videos! Instant win.
I’m a big 8CR13MOV fan myself for it’s amazing sharpen ability.
I'm really impressed with the quality of the 8CR13MOV Cold Steel uses for their blades.
I have a Luzon Large (not very practical for EDC 😉) and it stays sharp for very long and needs very little touching up to be paper slicing, hair popping sharp.
My daily EDC for at least the last year is the SR1 Lite cause I need a heavy duty, reliable work knife and can't always carry of use one of my fixed blades.
It's taken a ton of use and abuse and hasn't had any edge chipping and almost no roll. It hold the edge very well and putting a super sharp edge on it is extremely easy.