Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Thanks Nick. I had a couple knives and a few water and oil stones. I started watching you,Neves Knives, Canadian guy and some others during the pandemic. I liked my Case knives, Buck knives and some old Schrades in 1095, because that’s all I carried. So anyway during the pandemic, I had to stop working and started mountain biking. I spent a lot of time in the woods, sometimes days. I got into bushcraft and well, that got me into blades, saws, hatchets. Sharpening them became an issue. My first knife was a Benchmade bushcrafter in S30V and my stones were wearing, my hands were cramping. The stones weren’t cutting. So here it is a few years later. I’m retired, have two more mountain bikes and dozens of knives in mostly 20CV, M390 S30 and S35. I have a TSProf KO3 and Venev and Edge pro Diamond Matrix stones. Four new interests during the pandemic and now, at 66, I am proficient at them all. So thank you for sharing your knowledge and humor.
I had two D2 knives develop rust on the blade and in the pivot because of the environment I work in. Since then I’ve pretty much only used knives made of parts that won’t rust by Quiet Carry.
I can tell you are a science focused person. I love these style "talking hand" videos. Great information for those who aren't interested in digging through 100s of pages of knifesteelnerds
I love VG-10. Yes, there’s tons of great options that hold their edges longer, but it takes about two minutes on a Sharpmaker to get any of the VG-10 Seki Spydercos just absolutely sticky sharp. That’s a real benefit.
I have an older Gerber Gator folder I purchased in the 1990's and I can't put an edge on it. Great knife but damn the sharpening but again I'm no sharpening wizard.
@@M60gunner1971 if you know somebody with a lansky sharpening system , or buy one yourself you can put an amazing edge on your knife. Most knives don't come with a very edge from the shop. So you have to spend a bit of time reprofiling the edge.
14c28n, 154cm, VG10, AUS8, AUS10, 440C, D2... HRC 58-62. 8cr, 9cr, 420 are alright too if you dont mind more sharpening. Maybe a tackle box knife. I steer clear of 3cr even for opening envelopes.
In my own opinions s30/35/45vn is my favorite all rounder for edc. But for a lot of people, depending on where they live, lc200n is it. Technically vanax would be best, but its very expensive
I love them personally, plenty stainless for my usage. I have a few Vanax blades for abusing. Big fan of m390/20cv/204p but I think people look down their nose at s30v/s35vn but they are something you could easily use for a lifetime if you know how to sharpen. I prefer s35vn for it's sharpen ability but s30v isn't bad. Looking forward to Magna Cut, saw Chris reeve is testing it and that would be perfect for their target of decent toughness, decent stainlessness and easy to sharpen people bitch about them using s35vn but I have no issues. I have seen BG42 sebenzas that are 20years old that barely look like the blade has been sharpened that I know have been used.
@@Barryhatchet price will come down over time though. Vanax is a pretty tough stainless and edge retention is close to m390. Definitely not worth losing sleep over lc200n is great but on the 3 knives I have in vanax, they stay sharp forever. Wanting to see a spyderco mule or pm2 so I can do apples to apples comparison but impression is close to m390 and tougher with the crazy stainless
We made two fixed blades out of Vanax Superclean, it's crazy expensive for 3x45x250mm blanks we paid 90 dollars a blank for them, heat treat was a bitch as well and he had two failed treats. Once we got the heat treats done well and all said and done the knifes are fantastic, it's a superb steel but not worth that kind of money. They came in at 60HRC, they are fairly easy to sharpen considering and edge retention is very good. Overall a hard steel to work with becsuse getting a good heat treat is a total bitch.
For the money? S35vn, spy27, Lc200n Best in general? M390/20cv, vanax, cruwear Maybe THE best? I think a coated m4 or k390. I mean you get literally everything if those steels are coated to prevent rust.
It's very similar but VG10 is marginally better cutlery steel. 14c28 is just 13c with slightly more corrosion resistance at the expense of less edge keenness. 13 is closer to VG10 and takes a finer edge than 14. Many people consider 13c and VG10 to be interchangeable. Both are EXCELLENT stainless cutlery steels and about as good as non PM steel for the purposes of a knife blade get.
Great video!! When I started out I was completely lost. After becoming a steel nerd through research and using different steels you learn what you like. Like the brand of oil in your car. There is no wrong choice once ypu get past a certain level. Also depends on usuage environment. So far s110v, M390/20cv, K390, M4, and lately s90v are my favorites. Need to survive in wilderness 1095 or 3v. All comes down to blade shape, heat treatment, and usage. I find all non stainless steels will..drum roll stain. Even if cared for it is only a matter of time, before you forget to wipe/oil and will get a patina or rust/pit. I have some steels I collect and others I use daily. All part of the hobby.
I have a little assemblage of old U.S.A. pocketknives of 1095 or thereabouts. The patinas on them are wonderful if you just let them go, nicer than Damascus patterns
@@TheRealKennethReid yes and no, the purpose for using "cheap" steels in "military grade" is ease of field sharpening. Try sharpening elmax on a rock for example, your going to be there awhile.
Thanks for taking me to school, it is very much appreciated. You comment of this being interesting and useful information was certainly an understatement!
K390 is crazy. After over ten years of collecting, it's edge retention, toughness is the best Ive seen. Maintains a keen edge after banging it around. LC200N is also a revelation for its corrosion resistance.
You make exactly the right point. The steel is usually not all that critical and blade geometry and ergonomics are much more important. Also, for the very vast majority of customers, the most service the average EDC will do is open boxes from Amazon. I have been carrying EDCs of all types for a very long time, and mostly what they have had to deal with is packaging materials. I have a dozen or so knives, but the Bugout is the best at opening things because it has a super-slicy blade.
when you pulled out the s90v & carbon fiber native i went "hey, i have that one!" and then.. remembered that your review is the reason i have this one 😂
Nice video - gives a little perspective without digging to deep into the matter. I appreciate that more and more channels mention that heat treatment is one of the most important parts (and one the user just can not fix) as well as the geometry (which if necessary can be fixed)
I was going to make a point about certain steels but everyone has a different opinion. So there's no point. As my opinion would be lost in a sea of other opinions, and everyone thinks they're right and everyone else doesn't know what they're talking about. Welcome to the world of knives.
Nick Shabazz has the best, most informative, and most entertaining channel for knives in my opinion. I live in Hawaii near the ocean and spend a lot of time in the water. I’ve found that a serrated H1 Spyderco Pacific salt works well for me for nearly every cutting task. I like the smaller thumb ramp of the VG10 Endura’s, but I’d be worried about corrosion on the liners. I think H1 is great if you get serrated. I’ve had plain edge H1 and it is very underwhelming.
For edc folder M390 Fixed blade hard use: 52100, 80crv2, 3V , Vanadis 4 Extra For Fishing knife: AEB L , Vanax , LC200N If I had to have stainless steel on my fixed blade, because I would always be by the Sea,then: For small or medium size CPM 154 and for large or hard use AEB L.
I use 52100 on my drop forge and it does well but have used 3V and had it chip. Currently using a Ka-Bar Warthog I believe in 1075 and abusing the thing - no chips or rolls; easy to sharpen.
@@stephenbarone4053 Ka-Bar uses Carmon V steel. They've renamed it to 1095 CV, but that's just marketing, because Carbon V steel they use, is a completely different and more complicate knives, have recipe, than any 10 XX steel is. 3V is harder, and the harder the steel has more chances to chip. Ka-Bar knives, have superb edge stability. You'll never have any chips on their edges. As for the 52100, it's my favorite next to Vanadis 4 Extra! My custom knives hold their edges as long as super steels and I also never had any chips on their edges. PS It's only now that I noticed your comment, well, better late than never!
Thanks Nick for opening up the can of worms on knife steel you left out a few but still I found your comments on this some what interesting keep up the good work.
Lol if you keep a perfect edge on your high end folder that means you never use it.... so why even carry it, or own it ? That’s dumb lol. Knives are designed and made to be used. They’re tools, not art
@@michaelo5665 agreed... if my nice folder can't pop hair off your arm it's not worth being carried it must be sharpened before it can be carried again
Brilliant video as always. I think you gain huge credibility and kudos for discussing "things that matter more than Steel" at the start. The UA-camr Survival Lilly designed an excellent survival knife, and gets harassed and insulted for choosing to use AUS8. Her logic was mostly based around the abuse survival knives take, and how harder and arbitrarily "better" steels frequently chip or lose the tip after heavy use in the field, or accidently striking stone. She beats her knives to death, uses them to dig holes, and split logs, so she comes from a position of field experience. She opted for a softer steel because "blunt is preferable to broken", and she can also ensure a good heat treat. Its actually quite sad seeing so many keyboard steel ninjas giving her grief for what was essentially a sensible and subjective decision. (if you ever want to review that knife, I am happy to buy and ship one to you)
Steel snobs downplay the importance of toughness. For that use case, she's right, and they're wrong and stupid. It's no big deal to sharpen a knife in the field. It's a rather bigger deal to try to repair a snapped blade. It's the same in my kitchen. I've got some fancy Japanese lasers but if I'm mincing garlic I want a Western-style knife with softer, more durable steel that won't chip on a rock cut. What's the "best" steel? The one most appropriate to the task you have planned for it IMHO.
@@mfreeman313 Very well said. My pride and joy is an insanely expensive, hand made, survival knife, rated and tested for literally any temperature on earth. Im damned if I'm taking THAT knife out into the woods and using it to batton through knotty wood and dig holes for a latrine. Its in my bugout bag for a real emergency. If Im going to be beating on a knife, I take a beater for the beating work. Sometimes when I read comments on youtube it does make me wonder how much people actually use the knives they wax lyrical about. And agreed about the sharpening. Personally I pair off my knives with little sharpening kits when I intend to use them. All knives require sharpening, its just a matter of how much and how often. Good luck to you.
Anything in the M390/CV20/204P family of steels. Fairly tough and holds a pretty decent edge. Also pretty easy to sharpen for people that aren't very experienced either. Also highly corrosion resistant.
nice to see you think so highly of dendritic cobalt, I've been looking at Boye Cobalt knives for a few years now and keep going back and forth on whether or not they're something I'd want to buy. (I do live right on the Ocean, so the rustproof feature is a big plus)
Funny you mention the Boye Cobalt. I just acquired two in a trade, they're from the 90s when they were still made in Davenport, CA. They strop up like nothing I have seen before.
@@mtargetproduction originally Davenport. The owner of William Henry Knives first entry into knives was grinding for David Boye. Both companies originating out of Santa Cruz County.
The MBK Field Trekker does have thick stock but the blade geometry that is akin to a full flat grind, thin behind the edge and lovely convex grind does make for a great slicer. I used it on apples and potatoes and it works almost as well as a paring knife while the thick stock can benefit bushcraft very well. It is a jack of all trades knife in a great way that I mentioned on your last video but I don’t know if you read all your comments. I am glad you are on team LC200N, one of my favorite steels but one thing that gets so overlooked is it’s toughness!!!! LC200N is rated at 32 ft lbs while the great 3V is rated at about 40 ft lbs while a lot of steels that are considered great steels are rated around 10 ft lbs. LC200N’s shining quality of being stain free seems to be most people’s entirety of knowledge of it. Drop some knowledge on these fools and save them from their lack of worshipping such a deity of a steel. If LC200N was a god, it would be the love child of Poseidon and Thor!
What a fantastic list, unless you have as much experience with knives and steel as our man Nick, this is the most helpful list I've seen. Thanks for sharing.
Nick, AUS-10A in the AD 20.5, I picked up 3 of them at Blade Show. Two of the knives were super sharp right out of the box and the third... Not so much... I sharpened the least sharp blade multiple times and was just not happy with the edge. The following day the knife got a last ditch sharpening. I removed a good deal of metal and let a large burr form on both sides before moving on to finer stones. The AUS-10A just felt soft to me and the burr was difficult to remove. It could be that diamond abrasives are not a good fit with lower Rockwell hardness steel. If you get a chance to sharpen the AUS-10A version of the AD 20.5 I would love to get your opinion. Andrew Demko seems to really care about producing excellent knives and he would be likely to take notice of your feedback. The production version of the AD 20 is really an excellent knife in every other way. If the AD 20.5 is offered in an upgraded steel or the AUS-10A can be run at harder Rockwell I would buy another. Thank you for the video.
Awesome video, and have watched a few times. I really wanted to try different steels and really didn't know where to start. After watching this I was "good to go." 😎👍
14c28n, D2, vg10, and 154cm in my opinion are "good to go". maybe not as pricey but easily recommendable in almost every application. I have many great knives and a 14c28n and 154cm knife are both still in my rotation. but I guess we all have slightly different lists.
I've found a wharncliffe or sheepsfoot works best for what I carry a EDC knife for. I love full flat grind because it seems to be the best of both worlds between saber and hollow grind. Never had any issues with 440, aus8 or vg10 back in the day but love s30v / s35vn. All these steels can be maintained easily with a ceramic rod and strop. 1095 is just fine and cheap for a larger outdoor blade for me. My biggest EDC knife issue would be being left handed.
Poor lefty. A C R I’m guessing you’re aware of Knife_Swap on Reddit. Probably the best place to find lefty knives. Just post a want to by a left handed Sebenza or whatever and you’ll find whatever you’re looking for in time.
When I'm talking to someone new to knives I usually make the crude comparison that steel is like a steak. A really good chef can get the very best out of a subpar cut of meat, while a total novice will wreck a piece of A5 wagyu. Likewise a good maker can get the best of a bad steel(for example spyderco with the 8cr in the budget line) but an inexperienced maker wont do justice to some M390.
I agree. My buck marksman in 154cm has held its edge better than many of my s30v/s35vn knives (mainly breaking down cardboard boxes at work for disposal)
Only one on the list you skipped was my favorite edc steel Elmax. I just got a Kizer Drop Bear with winter storm fat carbon and Elmax steel. I absolutely love it. I've bought tons of knives I loved but needed to add something small or change something but this one is just perfect for me right out of the box. To use your saying " that's a beautiful thing ". That's for the video and take care my friend.
absolutely delighted to see my personal favorite steel, m390, on your list of favorites as well. "what is the best pocket knife steel" is a complicated question depending on use case, personal preference, lifestyle, and many other factors. but.. the answer is m390
I got a microtech CA legal, it didn't specify what kind of steel it was. It turned out to be cts-204p steel. I had never heard of it, but I have used that
A while back ago I picked up a Kershaw scallion, which I believe is only 420 steel and that thing somehow still is a razor edge after a ton of hard use. I’m talking basic cuts, cardboard, food prep while camping, and even whittling.
I was steel watching hhahhehahhhhehhhahhehha great video! it's about time you updated it = ) Pete from c&a is awesome, and I'm happy to see that you two are good buddies ❤️
Pleasantly surprised with how highly Nitro-V ranks, just bought the new civivi imperium in that steel and I'm in love so far, good to know the steel will hold up long term!
What matters more than chemistry is the heat treatment of the steel by the knife/blademaker. You can reprofile the blade to have any angle you want, but you can't fix a poor heat treatment. I have a Sebenza in S35VN steel which came pretty blunt from the factory (or rather the reseller, I think it's been sitting for a good while in a warehouse) and the steel is just unsharpenable (is that a word? :)). It's like trying to sharpen a ceramic knife. Diamond barely makes a dent to it and the only way to really do something is on a belt but it still can't really be sharpened. Sadly, I should have returned it right away and have them deal with it, but instead I tried fixing it myself so much the blade is quite a bit smaller now. Yeah, I know... I also have a ZT knife with the same S35VN steel and not only can it be sharpened more easily, it actually also hold an edge longer. Then I have a Spyderco with Maxamet blade - supposedly much harder, yet much easier to sharpen. The Sebenza actually has the worst edge retention of all my knives (at least those I actually use), yet seems harder. Anecdotal evidence suggest it might be because of improper heat treatment, but I'm certainly not an expert. At first I thought I was that inept at sharpening, but over time and as my knife collection grew I realized, it's just this single knife that I simply can't sharpen.
I can whole heartedly agree with your placement of “M390”. I absolutely love that steel! I know that. The “Sandvik”, steels are considered cheaper quality but over the years & using various knives with 12C27, 13C26 & 14C28N, along with 1095 rank very high w/me personally. They are those type steels that to me are “I know exactly where this blade needs a touch-up”, or just feel it when making a pass on a stone when they are “good-to-go”. For me personally they represent the “Favorite T-Shirt, your “Old Sneakers”, or “Mom’s Home Cooking”! Lol 😆 However those steels aside; there is 1 steel that I find so very intriguing but very little is said about it. Yes I have a knife from the company, the steel is thick but I can get an edge like nothing else when speaking of BUSSE Knives and “INFI Steel”. I’d love to hear your take on Busse & Swamp Rat knives as well. Great stuff, Thanks!
How do you feel about D2 cheap steel that the WE knife co. Produces in the Civivi line as well. Also, do you think that a diamond stone is a good to sharpen your knives ?😊 🔪
Very informative vid for someone like me who has used pocket knives most of my life but am totally new to the technical side of blade steels. Thanks Nick...
i basically carry a traditional slipjoint in 4116 and its my fav knife ever i just cope with a mini ceramic rod and carry it in separate pocket to hone it time to time couple passes and it return to shaving sharp but that basically euther some heavy cutting or after doing some good number of cuts
Very nuanced question. Very personal too. I love my spyderco in maxamet. And for swords, my hsts katana in diffentially hardened 1095. Also dig my Sandrin Torino in tungsten carbide.
I have a Delica 4 with a K390 Wharncliffe blade. I should have had EDCI on hand before I ordered that knife. I am going to take it apart and use a rust eraser on the blade remove the patina and then protect it with the EDCI. I just got a para3 with an S45VN blade in DLC coating even if it is stainless I am using EDCI on it too *e2a* I must have particularly acidic or extremely salty sweat.
Another resource (more for buyers of Chinese brands that are never touched here) is the project that LuvThemKnives has going. That involves proper scientific metallurgical testing of sample knives from different companies, with the result documented on a publicly-available spreadsheet. It focuses particularly on hardness and composition. Some budget-knife companies haven't come out of it well, but some have been surprisingly good.
S45vn is my favorite for an everyday folder. Primarily anything from spyderco since I fully trust their heat treat..... Magnacut is a close second but ONLY IF HRC is 63+. Anything below that brings the steel to budget level steel imo....
I have the Launch 13 with cpm 154, sharpens pretty easy and holds an edge pretty well, I just ordered the Launch 16 with M4, excited about that, I also ordered my first knife with MagnaCut, hoping it holds up well too.
A nice compilation of good facts, as hunting/fishing knife I have 3G steel knife from fällkniven edge retension, tuoghness and rust resistance is amazing. At work I use "solid budget" VG10, D2 or 14C28N, dont have to cry if I i hit it on something that ruin the blade or it gets chipped, and as a EDC knife i have M390. As you said I almost gave up sharpening M390 and 3G these are really hard to get a good edge on, but when you finaly got it just need to strop it to get that razor edge back
I actually like cheap peasant knives like my Portuguese Mama and Opinels precisely for this reason. Thin blade stock ground to a fine edge cut better than any high grade steel with a chunky blade. I usually regrind all my knives with a steeper bevel as well for the same reason. Okay it makes the edge more fragile but this is an EDC knife. For bushcraft I use something different.
I started carrying an Opinel literally decades ago because I figured if it got lost I probably wouldn't have to throw myself on the ground crying. I've sent them through the washing machine and after they dried out they were fine. And yes, that geometry makes them super-slicey. Just a classic and an incredible value.
Well carried and cut Dragonfly VG10 still near perfect ..Lil Native S30V (my most expensive knife) too afraid to carry used 5 times in the kitchen- chipped tip.
I am not trying to be a "troll," but I rarely ever use a knife. Like I only get a package once per month kind of deal. So, for me it's hard to justify carrying anything more elaborate than a folding box cutter with a replaceable blade for around $10.00. I do like knife design, I own a zt 0450, a Quiet Carry iQ, Rat 2, and I am fighting the urge to buy a CRKT CEO Flipper. [I do prefer a flipper for deployment, and a lock where my finger isn't in the path of the blade.] But, again; for my particular use-case, I just use a Husky Compact Folding Lock-Back Utility Knife at $6.00. I don't have to worry about sharpening, I don't have to worry about loaning out my knife. I can keep a small stack of replacement blades on hand. It just makes sense to have. It is just so disposable, and I never really need a knife. The way I see it, the utility knife (a.k.a. box cutter), is to the knife world as the safety razor is to the shave world.
Simply an excellent, masterful presentation. I'm not aware of any one video that gives you the basic rundown on most of the steels out there while first providing critical context on how to think about the steel used as one factor in decisions on what to buy and use. I'm a longtime knife-liker and relatively recent knife nut, and I'm thinking more about a sane balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening at this stage, especially in my kitchen knives that see use every day, so this is all hugely helpful.
Solid vid on different steels. Love me some CPM-154, M390/CPM-20CV, S90V, S110V, and Maxamet. That MBK fixed blade looks gorgeous and I don't own any 3V; time to buy another knife! Excellent that you brought out that book again!
Most of the knives I EDC have steel in Nick's "Probably Not" and "Solid Budget" categories. Works fine for me. Very light EDC and some bushcraft stuff is most of what I do with knives. Since most of the time I find I only have to hone the edges, or use the fine rods on the Spyderco Sharp Maker, I think that means I don't have much of a need for a super steel. Today all I cut was an avocado and some cheese. For me, LC200N is the most intriguing option from the "best" list. I'd like to see the Dragonfly in that (I also contend with extreme local knife laws on blade length).
Hey nick, I have an exclusive Manix 2 with marbled CF and a 4V hollow ground blade. If you ever want to try that steel out, let me know. You can do whatever tests you want with it that way you can check that steel off the list. I'd be happy to send that to you.
Oh baby I love me some Vanax, I have noticed differences in steels less and less, but I love that I can be in the field all day, sweat, rain, sap, and my blade will be completely fine
If you can sharpen,anything above the budget steels is okay,just keep in mind,ANY knife will eventually need sharpening,and if you have to send it somewhere to get it sharpened-you want the high edge retention of a properly heat treated premium steel,like m390,m4,s90v,etc.Everything the batman says here,is spot on-he knows his stuff,(of course,his taste in cultery might not be for everybody,i e-that high dollar chisel he likes so much)
Good points at the beginning, especially with heat treatment and grinds. The Steels list after is very subjective, especially when dealing with brands. Like AUS-10a is exclusively Cold Steel, and good luck finding 440c!🤣
Nobody does it like Nick
Thx for summarising everything I've been researching in the last 3 months into 30 minutes
Your channel rules
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Thanks Nick. I had a couple knives and a few water and oil stones. I started watching you,Neves Knives, Canadian guy and some others during the pandemic. I liked my Case knives, Buck knives and some old Schrades in 1095, because that’s all I carried. So anyway during the pandemic, I had to stop working and started mountain biking. I spent a lot of time in the woods, sometimes days. I got into bushcraft and well, that got me into blades, saws, hatchets. Sharpening them became an issue. My first knife was a Benchmade bushcrafter in S30V and my stones were wearing, my hands were cramping. The stones weren’t cutting.
So here it is a few years later. I’m retired, have two more mountain bikes and dozens of knives in mostly 20CV, M390 S30 and S35. I have a TSProf KO3 and Venev and Edge pro Diamond Matrix stones.
Four new interests during the pandemic and now, at 66, I am proficient at them all. So thank you for sharing your knowledge and humor.
The D2 steel I’ve got on my Esee Zancudo and Avispa has done well. I really enjoy D2 over the other budget steels.
I had two D2 knives develop rust on the blade and in the pivot because of the environment I work in. Since then I’ve pretty much only used knives made of parts that won’t rust by Quiet Carry.
My current personal favorites are CPM MagnaCut, CPM 15v, CPM Rex 45, CPM Rex 121, and Maxamet. They just make me happy.
You got some good performance out of that Magnacut, them nails didn't stand a chance.
I can tell you are a science focused person. I love these style "talking hand" videos.
Great information for those who aren't interested in digging through 100s of pages of knifesteelnerds
Good catch! He is literally a scientist! 😁
@@Daniel_DiSanto yes indeed he is. Just the way that he lay stuff out definitely fits in with that fact.
I love VG-10. Yes, there’s tons of great options that hold their edges longer, but it takes about two minutes on a Sharpmaker to get any of the VG-10 Seki Spydercos just absolutely sticky sharp. That’s a real benefit.
Agreed, and if you're only using it for light use, it'll hold an edge for a long time.
I have an older Gerber Gator folder I purchased in the 1990's and I can't put an edge on it. Great knife but damn the sharpening but again I'm no sharpening wizard.
@@M60gunner1971 lol that would be either 420hc or 440A more than likely so yeah those are very soft and easy steels to sharpen 🤷♂️
@@M60gunner1971 if you know somebody with a lansky sharpening system , or buy one yourself you can put an amazing edge on your knife.
Most knives don't come with a very edge from the shop.
So you have to spend a bit of time reprofiling the edge.
@@kevinAuman1 oh can I mail it to you blade cyclops?!!
14c28n, 154cm, VG10, AUS8, AUS10, 440C, D2... HRC 58-62.
8cr, 9cr, 420 are alright too if you dont mind more sharpening. Maybe a tackle box knife.
I steer clear of 3cr even for opening envelopes.
D2, 440HC and 14C28N are my preferred alloys.
Indeed.
Between the vast knowledge and the sharp humor I appreciate you!
Slicey blade geometry with a very good heat treat equals Spyderco.
You mean TRM
Got my s45vn para3 and love it.
I would love to see someone experienced in the hobby and sharpening guess what steel is which in a blind test type video...😏
I'm going to do exactly that with ~25 different Spyderco Mules later this summer. Or you can see it done right by Larren at knifesteelnerds.com.
It is a lot of fun to see how the various super steels sharpen up. K390 and Maxamet are steels that are easy to identify by how they cut and sharpen.
Almost impossible because of different heat treats.
@@davidr6856 sweet!
@@RadDadisRad ur no fun Leland lol 😆
Superb video. Machine gunning facts at 3000 mph, no filler, no bias, no ego, no music. Just fantastic. Thanks.
In my own opinions s30/35/45vn is my favorite all rounder for edc. But for a lot of people, depending on where they live, lc200n is it. Technically vanax would be best, but its very expensive
I love them personally, plenty stainless for my usage. I have a few Vanax blades for abusing.
Big fan of m390/20cv/204p but I think people look down their nose at s30v/s35vn but they are something you could easily use for a lifetime if you know how to sharpen. I prefer s35vn for it's sharpen ability but s30v isn't bad. Looking forward to Magna Cut, saw Chris reeve is testing it and that would be perfect for their target of decent toughness, decent stainlessness and easy to sharpen people bitch about them using s35vn but I have no issues. I have seen BG42 sebenzas that are 20years old that barely look like the blade has been sharpened that I know have been used.
Diminishing returns on Vanax. 5x the price with %10 return in increased performance
@@Barryhatchet price will come down over time though. Vanax is a pretty tough stainless and edge retention is close to m390. Definitely not worth losing sleep over lc200n is great but on the 3 knives I have in vanax, they stay sharp forever. Wanting to see a spyderco mule or pm2 so I can do apples to apples comparison but impression is close to m390 and tougher with the crazy stainless
We made two fixed blades out of Vanax Superclean, it's crazy expensive for 3x45x250mm blanks we paid 90 dollars a blank for them, heat treat was a bitch as well and he had two failed treats. Once we got the heat treats done well and all said and done the knifes are fantastic, it's a superb steel but not worth that kind of money. They came in at 60HRC, they are fairly easy to sharpen considering and edge retention is very good. Overall a hard steel to work with becsuse getting a good heat treat is a total bitch.
For the money?
S35vn, spy27, Lc200n
Best in general?
M390/20cv, vanax, cruwear
Maybe THE best?
I think a coated m4 or k390. I mean you get literally everything if those steels are coated to prevent rust.
I have two knives in 14c28n Swedish steel. Probably same edge retention as vg10 , sharpens as easily, but I think tougher. Great budget steel.
It's very similar but VG10 is marginally better cutlery steel. 14c28 is just 13c with slightly more corrosion resistance at the expense of less edge keenness. 13 is closer to VG10 and takes a finer edge than 14. Many people consider 13c and VG10 to be interchangeable. Both are EXCELLENT stainless cutlery steels and about as good as non PM steel for the purposes of a knife blade get.
Great video!! When I started out I was completely lost. After becoming a steel nerd through research and using different steels you learn what you like. Like the brand of oil in your car. There is no wrong choice once ypu get past a certain level. Also depends on usuage environment. So far s110v, M390/20cv, K390, M4, and lately s90v are my favorites. Need to survive in wilderness 1095 or 3v. All comes down to blade shape, heat treatment, and usage. I find all non stainless steels will..drum roll stain. Even if cared for it is only a matter of time, before you forget to wipe/oil and will get a patina or rust/pit. I have some steels I collect and others I use daily. All part of the hobby.
Love my Demko in 3v
I have a little assemblage of old U.S.A. pocketknives of 1095 or thereabouts. The patinas on them are wonderful if you just let them go, nicer than Damascus patterns
“Actually sharpening raises a good point” I mean he isn’t wrong
What an EDGEy comment
If victorinox steel is used by various military units in the world it can’t be bad can it ?
@Marc Dee Yes it can.
Civilians hear "military grade" and get excited, whereas soldiers hear that term and shiver with fear at the low quality.
@@TheRealKennethReid yes and no, the purpose for using "cheap" steels in "military grade" is ease of field sharpening. Try sharpening elmax on a rock for example, your going to be there awhile.
This video is so informative I’ve decided to watch it twice, or maybe even return to it every so often to help retain all of this useful information.
Thanks for taking me to school, it is very much appreciated. You comment of this being interesting and useful information was certainly an understatement!
I don't even care about steel that much as I've amassed my collection, I generally look at a design I like and typically they're good enough steels.
K390 is crazy. After over ten years of collecting, it's edge retention, toughness is the best Ive seen. Maintains a keen edge after banging it around. LC200N is also a revelation for its corrosion resistance.
Of the crazy wear resistant steels, it is one of the easier ones to sharpen. Love my endura in K390.
You make exactly the right point. The steel is usually not all that critical and blade geometry and ergonomics are much more important. Also, for the very vast majority of customers, the most service the average EDC will do is open boxes from Amazon. I have been carrying EDCs of all types for a very long time, and mostly what they have had to deal with is packaging materials. I have a dozen or so knives, but the Bugout is the best at opening things because it has a super-slicy blade.
when you pulled out the s90v & carbon fiber native i went "hey, i have that one!" and then.. remembered that your review is the reason i have this one 😂
my only issue with this knife is that s90v is kind of a b*tch to sharpen. still a good steel - even a great steel - but not my #1 favorite, or even #2
The Italians are actually doing wonders with n690co.
DBK tested a extrema ratio selvans in n699co and it outperformed most of their supersteel knives.
Nice video - gives a little perspective without digging to deep into the matter. I appreciate that more and more channels mention that heat treatment is one of the most important parts (and one the user just can not fix) as well as the geometry (which if necessary can be fixed)
You know your stuff, Nick! Was really pleased to hear you talk about heat treatment and grind in response to the best steel question.
I’m glad you brought up how important geometry is. 👍🏻
I was going to make a point about certain steels but everyone has a different opinion. So there's no point. As my opinion would be lost in a sea of other opinions, and everyone thinks they're right and everyone else doesn't know what they're talking about.
Welcome to the world of knives.
i just read that hoping for direction in my life :(
Nick Shabazz has the best, most informative, and most entertaining channel for knives in my opinion.
I live in Hawaii near the ocean and spend a lot of time in the water. I’ve found that a serrated H1 Spyderco Pacific salt works well for me for nearly every cutting task. I like the smaller thumb ramp of the VG10 Endura’s, but I’d be worried about corrosion on the liners. I think H1 is great if you get serrated. I’ve had plain edge H1 and it is very underwhelming.
LC200n for wet field work.
Cruwear, CTS-XPH for overall general application.
154CM, D2 awesome budget options, especially D2 which has amazing value.
For edc folder M390
Fixed blade hard use: 52100, 80crv2, 3V , Vanadis 4 Extra
For Fishing knife: AEB L , Vanax , LC200N
If I had to have stainless steel on my fixed blade, because I would always be by the Sea,then: For small or medium size CPM 154 and for large or hard use AEB L.
I use 52100 on my drop forge and it does well but have used 3V and had it chip. Currently using a Ka-Bar Warthog I believe in 1075 and abusing the thing - no chips or rolls; easy to sharpen.
@@stephenbarone4053 Ka-Bar uses Carmon V steel. They've renamed it to 1095 CV, but that's just marketing, because Carbon V steel they use, is a completely different and more complicate knives, have recipe, than any 10 XX steel is. 3V is harder, and the harder the steel has more chances to chip. Ka-Bar knives, have superb edge stability. You'll never have any chips on their edges. As for the 52100, it's my favorite next to Vanadis 4 Extra! My custom knives hold their edges as long as super steels and I also never had any chips on their edges.
PS It's only now that I noticed your comment, well, better late than never!
Thanks Nick for opening up the can of worms on knife steel you left out a few but still I found your comments on this some what interesting keep up the good work.
Years ago I had an old dagger with a some sort of bone handle and the word "Solingen" on the blade. Spectacularly beautiful and sharp.
Your commitment to doing the least editing possible by printing out stuff instead of making graphics gives me a comfy old youtube vibe.
Just get an OLFA utility knife to cut stuff and keep a perfect edge on your high end folder thats what I do.
Is that all you can get across the border now is it?
Lol if you keep a perfect edge on your high end folder that means you never use it.... so why even carry it, or own it ? That’s dumb lol. Knives are designed and made to be used. They’re tools, not art
@@toziassmitt i use mine for flesh.......seriously
@@toziassmitt they can be and very often are both.
@@michaelo5665 agreed... if my nice folder can't pop hair off your arm it's not worth being carried it must be sharpened before it can be carried again
this is something i discovered recently, thank you for affirming my research and teaching me a few new tips
I bought LC200N for the combo of edge retention and sharpen-ability.
Brilliant video as always. I think you gain huge credibility and kudos for discussing "things that matter more than Steel" at the start. The UA-camr Survival Lilly designed an excellent survival knife, and gets harassed and insulted for choosing to use AUS8. Her logic was mostly based around the abuse survival knives take, and how harder and arbitrarily "better" steels frequently chip or lose the tip after heavy use in the field, or accidently striking stone. She beats her knives to death, uses them to dig holes, and split logs, so she comes from a position of field experience. She opted for a softer steel because "blunt is preferable to broken", and she can also ensure a good heat treat.
Its actually quite sad seeing so many keyboard steel ninjas giving her grief for what was essentially a sensible and subjective decision.
(if you ever want to review that knife, I am happy to buy and ship one to you)
Steel snobs downplay the importance of toughness. For that use case, she's right, and they're wrong and stupid. It's no big deal to sharpen a knife in the field. It's a rather bigger deal to try to repair a snapped blade. It's the same in my kitchen. I've got some fancy Japanese lasers but if I'm mincing garlic I want a Western-style knife with softer, more durable steel that won't chip on a rock cut. What's the "best" steel? The one most appropriate to the task you have planned for it IMHO.
@@mfreeman313 Very well said. My pride and joy is an insanely expensive, hand made, survival knife, rated and tested for literally any temperature on earth. Im damned if I'm taking THAT knife out into the woods and using it to batton through knotty wood and dig holes for a latrine. Its in my bugout bag for a real emergency. If Im going to be beating on a knife, I take a beater for the beating work. Sometimes when I read comments on youtube it does make me wonder how much people actually use the knives they wax lyrical about. And agreed about the sharpening. Personally I pair off my knives with little sharpening kits when I intend to use them. All knives require sharpening, its just a matter of how much and how often. Good luck to you.
Anything in the M390/CV20/204P family of steels. Fairly tough and holds a pretty decent edge. Also pretty easy to sharpen for people that aren't very experienced either. Also highly corrosion resistant.
Thanks for the list in the description section. It provided a nice list to start researching...
Outpost76 is a great channel with cut tests of differant knife steels.
12c27 or 14c28 tough enough for edc and so easy to sharpen
nice to see you think so highly of dendritic cobalt, I've been looking at Boye Cobalt knives for a few years now and keep going back and forth on whether or not they're something I'd want to buy. (I do live right on the Ocean, so the rustproof feature is a big plus)
Funny you mention the Boye Cobalt. I just acquired two in a trade, they're from the 90s when they were still made in Davenport, CA. They strop up like nothing I have seen before.
@@MontereyBayKnives interesting, didn't know they started in CA, I figured they were in AZ from the beginning.
@@mtargetproduction originally Davenport. The owner of William Henry Knives first entry into knives was grinding for David Boye. Both companies originating out of Santa Cruz County.
@@MontereyBayKnives cool, learn something new every day!
The MBK Field Trekker does have thick stock but the blade geometry that is akin to a full flat grind, thin behind the edge and lovely convex grind does make for a great slicer. I used it on apples and potatoes and it works almost as well as a paring knife while the thick stock can benefit bushcraft very well. It is a jack of all trades knife in a great way that I mentioned on your last video but I don’t know if you read all your comments. I am glad you are on team LC200N, one of my favorite steels but one thing that gets so overlooked is it’s toughness!!!! LC200N is rated at 32 ft lbs while the great 3V is rated at about 40 ft lbs while a lot of steels that are considered great steels are rated around 10 ft lbs. LC200N’s shining quality of being stain free seems to be most people’s entirety of knowledge of it. Drop some knowledge on these fools and save them from their lack of worshipping such a deity of a steel. If LC200N was a god, it would be the love child of Poseidon and Thor!
It’s a great knife for sure! And yes, LC200N is stellar
What a fantastic list, unless you have as much experience with knives and steel as our man Nick, this is the most helpful list I've seen. Thanks for sharing.
Nick, AUS-10A in the AD 20.5, I picked up 3 of them at Blade Show. Two of the knives were super sharp right out of the box and the third... Not so much... I sharpened the least sharp blade multiple times and was just not happy with the edge. The following day the knife got a last ditch sharpening. I removed a good deal of metal and let a large burr form on both sides before moving on to finer stones. The AUS-10A just felt soft to me and the burr was difficult to remove. It could be that diamond abrasives are not a good fit with lower Rockwell hardness steel.
If you get a chance to sharpen the AUS-10A version of the AD 20.5 I would love to get your opinion.
Andrew Demko seems to really care about producing excellent knives and he would be likely to take notice of your feedback. The production version of the AD 20 is really an excellent knife in every other way. If the AD 20.5 is offered in an upgraded steel or the AUS-10A can be run at harder Rockwell I would buy another. Thank you for the video.
Awesome video, and have watched a few times. I really wanted to try different steels and really didn't know where to start. After watching this I was "good to go." 😎👍
14c28n, D2, vg10, and 154cm in my opinion are "good to go". maybe not as pricey but easily recommendable in almost every application. I have many great knives and a 14c28n and 154cm knife are both still in my rotation. but I guess we all have slightly different lists.
I've found a wharncliffe or sheepsfoot works best for what I carry a EDC knife for. I love full flat grind because it seems to be the best of both worlds between saber and hollow grind. Never had any issues with 440, aus8 or vg10 back in the day but love s30v / s35vn. All these steels can be maintained easily with a ceramic rod and strop. 1095 is just fine and cheap for a larger outdoor blade for me. My biggest EDC knife issue would be being left handed.
Poor lefty. A C R I’m guessing you’re aware of Knife_Swap on Reddit. Probably the best place to find lefty knives. Just post a want to by a left handed Sebenza or whatever and you’ll find whatever you’re looking for in time.
If only these bladeshapes weren't so ugly.
great video, really enjoyed this. thanks for sharing 😎👍🏻
When I'm talking to someone new to knives I usually make the crude comparison that steel is like a steak. A really good chef can get the very best out of a subpar cut of meat, while a total novice will wreck a piece of A5 wagyu. Likewise a good maker can get the best of a bad steel(for example spyderco with the 8cr in the budget line) but an inexperienced maker wont do justice to some M390.
Bucks 420hc is unbelievably good... It's on par with most vg10.
Their heat treat is legendary. My sharpest knife is their auto elite in s30v and holy fuck is it sharp. It makes razors look dull
I agree. My buck marksman in 154cm has held its edge better than many of my s30v/s35vn knives (mainly breaking down cardboard boxes at work for disposal)
Agree... they got some wizardry going on over there
Informative video, Nick. You’re steel the best.
A+
Excellent vid there on steels. Superbly put across.
was what i need
thank you for this banger of a video
Only one on the list you skipped was my favorite edc steel Elmax. I just got a Kizer Drop Bear with winter storm fat carbon and Elmax steel. I absolutely love it. I've bought tons of knives I loved but needed to add something small or change something but this one is just perfect for me right out of the box. To use your saying " that's a beautiful thing ". That's for the video and take care my friend.
Elmax is on the list in the "Good to Go" category.
Thanks again for this video, don’t know how many times I reference this piece!
I've got a VTOKU endura and I love it
Great vid Nicolás! Loved your steel choices.😊👍
I would love a re visit to this video
S90v, M390 and M4 are my fav steel.
absolutely delighted to see my personal favorite steel, m390, on your list of favorites as well. "what is the best pocket knife steel" is a complicated question depending on use case, personal preference, lifestyle, and many other factors. but.. the answer is m390
Of course I looked at the description AFTER typing out all the steels in a Word document. Derp. Good video. Subbed.
I got a microtech CA legal, it didn't specify what kind of steel it was. It turned out to be cts-204p steel. I had never heard of it, but I have used that
It's an m390 or 20cv clone steel. Shouldn't be too bad if you have diamond stones.
A while back ago I picked up a Kershaw scallion, which I believe is only 420 steel and that thing somehow still is a razor edge after a ton of hard use. I’m talking basic cuts, cardboard, food prep while camping, and even whittling.
I was steel watching hhahhehahhhhehhhahhehha
great video! it's about time you updated it = )
Pete from c&a is awesome, and I'm happy to see that you two are good buddies ❤️
All of my recent knives, except for my CRK Sebenza 31 with a Magnacut blade, have blades made of Vanax.
Pleasantly surprised with how highly Nitro-V ranks, just bought the new civivi imperium in that steel and I'm in love so far, good to know the steel will hold up long term!
I have one too and love it. I was also surprised. I’m still learning about steels. My most recent folder is a kizer escort with 154
Very informative, thanks Nick.
What matters more than chemistry is the heat treatment of the steel by the knife/blademaker. You can reprofile the blade to have any angle you want, but you can't fix a poor heat treatment. I have a Sebenza in S35VN steel which came pretty blunt from the factory (or rather the reseller, I think it's been sitting for a good while in a warehouse) and the steel is just unsharpenable (is that a word? :)). It's like trying to sharpen a ceramic knife. Diamond barely makes a dent to it and the only way to really do something is on a belt but it still can't really be sharpened. Sadly, I should have returned it right away and have them deal with it, but instead I tried fixing it myself so much the blade is quite a bit smaller now. Yeah, I know...
I also have a ZT knife with the same S35VN steel and not only can it be sharpened more easily, it actually also hold an edge longer.
Then I have a Spyderco with Maxamet blade - supposedly much harder, yet much easier to sharpen.
The Sebenza actually has the worst edge retention of all my knives (at least those I actually use), yet seems harder. Anecdotal evidence suggest it might be because of improper heat treatment, but I'm certainly not an expert.
At first I thought I was that inept at sharpening, but over time and as my knife collection grew I realized, it's just this single knife that I simply can't sharpen.
I’d be curious to hear your take on the influx in the 9cr Damascus that you see today on the civivi’s and other knife company’s!
I can whole heartedly agree with your placement of “M390”. I absolutely love that steel! I know that. The “Sandvik”, steels are considered cheaper quality but over the years & using various knives with 12C27, 13C26 & 14C28N, along with 1095 rank very high w/me personally. They are those type steels that to me are “I know exactly where this blade needs a touch-up”, or just feel it when making a pass on a stone when they are “good-to-go”. For me personally they represent the “Favorite T-Shirt, your “Old Sneakers”, or “Mom’s Home Cooking”! Lol 😆 However those steels aside; there is 1 steel that I find so very intriguing but very little is said about it. Yes I have a knife from the company, the steel is thick but I can get an edge like nothing else when speaking of BUSSE Knives and “INFI Steel”. I’d love to hear your take on Busse & Swamp Rat knives as well. Great stuff, Thanks!
It's good to see that I'm not the only one with a mirror edge Pilar
How do you feel about D2 cheap steel that the WE knife co. Produces in the Civivi line as well. Also, do you think that a diamond stone is a good to sharpen your knives ?😊 🔪
Very informative vid for someone like me who has used pocket knives most of my life but am totally new to the technical side of blade steels. Thanks Nick...
i basically carry a traditional slipjoint in 4116 and its my fav knife ever
i just cope with a mini ceramic rod and carry it in separate pocket to hone it time to time couple passes and it return to shaving sharp but that basically euther some heavy cutting or after doing some good number of cuts
Very nuanced question. Very personal too. I love my spyderco in maxamet. And for swords, my hsts katana in diffentially hardened 1095. Also dig my Sandrin Torino in tungsten carbide.
So true Brother
I have a Delica 4 with a K390 Wharncliffe blade. I should have had EDCI on hand before I ordered that knife. I am going to take it apart and use a rust eraser on the blade remove the patina and then protect it with the EDCI. I just got a para3 with an S45VN blade in DLC coating even if it is stainless I am using EDCI on it too
*e2a* I must have particularly acidic or extremely salty sweat.
This video is really incredible. I've bookmarked it and will recommend it to anyone in the market for a knife!!!!!🔪 Thanks !!!!
Another resource (more for buyers of Chinese brands that are never touched here) is the project that LuvThemKnives has going. That involves proper scientific metallurgical testing of sample knives from different companies, with the result documented on a publicly-available spreadsheet. It focuses particularly on hardness and composition. Some budget-knife companies haven't come out of it well, but some have been surprisingly good.
S45vn is my favorite for an everyday folder. Primarily anything from spyderco since I fully trust their heat treat..... Magnacut is a close second but ONLY IF HRC is 63+. Anything below that brings the steel to budget level steel imo....
I agree with the Victorinox steel. I dream of a day when they use better steel and I can carry one with confidence everyday.
Ever think of carrying a pocket stone with you?
What a great reference sheet!
Thank you Nick!
Nice amount of work you put in this! Gj mate!
This was an absolutely great video. I'm pretty new to this and learned so much. I am a fan of yours truly. Thanks 😊
I have the Launch 13 with cpm 154, sharpens pretty easy and holds an edge pretty well, I just ordered the Launch 16 with M4, excited about that, I also ordered my first knife with MagnaCut, hoping it holds up well too.
All of those are great steels. The d2 needs more care though as it’s not as corrosion resistant as the other 2 you have.
A nice compilation of good facts, as hunting/fishing knife I have 3G steel knife from fällkniven edge retension, tuoghness and rust resistance is amazing. At work I use "solid budget" VG10, D2 or 14C28N, dont have to cry if I i hit it on something that ruin the blade or it gets chipped, and as a EDC knife i have M390. As you said I almost gave up sharpening M390 and 3G these are really hard to get a good edge on, but when you finaly got it just need to strop it to get that razor edge back
Thanks for the video Nick, very informative
I actually like cheap peasant knives like my Portuguese Mama and Opinels precisely for this reason. Thin blade stock ground to a fine edge cut better than any high grade steel with a chunky blade. I usually regrind all my knives with a steeper bevel as well for the same reason. Okay it makes the edge more fragile but this is an EDC knife. For bushcraft I use something different.
I started carrying an Opinel literally decades ago because I figured if it got lost I probably wouldn't have to throw myself on the ground crying. I've sent them through the washing machine and after they dried out they were fine. And yes, that geometry makes them super-slicey. Just a classic and an incredible value.
Well carried and cut Dragonfly VG10 still near perfect ..Lil Native S30V (my most expensive knife) too afraid to carry used 5 times in the kitchen- chipped tip.
I am not trying to be a "troll," but I rarely ever use a knife. Like I only get a package once per month kind of deal.
So, for me it's hard to justify carrying anything more elaborate than a folding box cutter with a replaceable blade for around $10.00.
I do like knife design, I own a zt 0450, a Quiet Carry iQ, Rat 2, and I am fighting the urge to buy a CRKT CEO Flipper.
[I do prefer a flipper for deployment, and a lock where my finger isn't in the path of the blade.]
But, again; for my particular use-case, I just use a Husky Compact Folding Lock-Back Utility Knife at $6.00. I don't have to worry about sharpening, I don't have to worry about loaning out my knife. I can keep a small stack of replacement blades on hand. It just makes sense to have. It is just so disposable, and I never really need a knife.
The way I see it, the utility knife (a.k.a. box cutter), is to the knife world as the safety razor is to the shave world.
Simply an excellent, masterful presentation. I'm not aware of any one video that gives you the basic rundown on most of the steels out there while first providing critical context on how to think about the steel used as one factor in decisions on what to buy and use. I'm a longtime knife-liker and relatively recent knife nut, and I'm thinking more about a sane balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening at this stage, especially in my kitchen knives that see use every day, so this is all hugely helpful.
Could you consider making a Video dedicated to Victorinox steel and heat treatment please?
Greetings from Germany, i really enjoy your videos :)
Fantastic! Thank you for list in comments
Solid vid on different steels. Love me some CPM-154, M390/CPM-20CV, S90V, S110V, and Maxamet. That MBK fixed blade looks gorgeous and I don't own any 3V; time to buy another knife! Excellent that you brought out that book again!
Most of the knives I EDC have steel in Nick's "Probably Not" and "Solid Budget" categories. Works fine for me. Very light EDC and some bushcraft stuff is most of what I do with knives. Since most of the time I find I only have to hone the edges, or use the fine rods on the Spyderco Sharp Maker, I think that means I don't have much of a need for a super steel. Today all I cut was an avocado and some cheese. For me, LC200N is the most intriguing option from the "best" list. I'd like to see the Dragonfly in that (I also contend with extreme local knife laws on blade length).
Hey nick, I have an exclusive Manix 2 with marbled CF and a 4V hollow ground blade. If you ever want to try that steel out, let me know. You can do whatever tests you want with it that way you can check that steel off the list. I'd be happy to send that to you.
Oh baby I love me some Vanax, I have noticed differences in steels less and less, but I love that I can be in the field all day, sweat, rain, sap, and my blade will be completely fine
If you can sharpen,anything above the budget steels is okay,just keep in mind,ANY knife will eventually need sharpening,and if you have to send it somewhere to get it sharpened-you want the high edge retention of a properly heat treated premium steel,like m390,m4,s90v,etc.Everything the batman says here,is spot on-he knows his stuff,(of course,his taste in cultery might not be for everybody,i e-that high dollar chisel he likes so much)
Good points at the beginning, especially with heat treatment and grinds. The Steels list after is very subjective, especially when dealing with brands. Like AUS-10a is exclusively Cold Steel, and good luck finding 440c!🤣