I know on my ZH20D with mechanical adjustment the tracks needed adjusting every couple of hours for the first 30 hours then every few hours for the next 30 - 35 hours. Between 75 and 100 hours a slight adjustment was needed. Almost no stretch with about 120 hours as of today. I did buy a ratcheting wrench that fits the adjusting/lock nuts for faster/easier adjustments. Great video!
With rubber tracks, the sprocket may experience less wear compared to steel tracks because rubber tracks are generally lighter and exert less stress on the undercarriage components. However, rubber tracks can stretch over time, causing increased wear on the sprocket teeth as they engage with the track. Steel tracks typically exert more force on the undercarriage components, including the sprocket, due to their heavier weight. The constant engagement of steel tracks with the sprocket teeth can also cause wear over time, especially in demanding operating conditions or when the tracks are not adequately lubricated.
What would cause the machine to hump and rock when driven on flat ground. Almost like there's a small log between the track and drive motor. Something loose? Thoughts? Thanks.
debris in the hydraulic fluid or drive motor, possibly air in the system. Some units controls may need to be feathered, when tracking instant full flow to the drives can cause that to momentarily overload and unbalance the drive system
@groundhogequipment appreciate the reply but this doesn't feel like a hydraulic issue it's not like a stuttering in the drive. It feels more mechanical and the Machine is literally rocking left and right like something is not running centered. Just trying to get ideas on what could be causing it. It's pretty pronounced.
We prefer in the air. Use a wrench to loosen the bleeder valve or fitting slightly. Be careful not to remove it entirely, as grease may shoot out under pressure. As you loosen the valve, grease will start to come out slowly. To speed up the process, gently push the front idler inward using a pry bar (make sure the machine is safely supported if it's off the ground). Let the grease bleed out until the track tension is reduced to your desired level. Once you've released enough grease, tighten the valve securely to prevent leaks and clean any excess grease from the area.
Thanks for the trackinformation. I have a MIVA VA 13C. There is an issue running on flat area with gravel. connsistently the track spins then lock up. Is this a tension issue and /or lube problem. Once cleaned it operates properly. Is this an normal issue? What can be done to reduce the track issue?
Hello. could you give me the spring dimensions? (length, thickness and diameter of the spring) I'm making a track drive, but I don't know what kind of spring it should be. thank you
I have a new Leite HT1012 mini excavator with 3.5 hours of run time. The passenger side track just started making a metal-on-metal sounding squeal in the forward direction only. I can't figure where it is coming from. Any ideas?
I have the ZH24D-2 and I am having difficulty keeping my rubber tracks on. I am only able to finger-tighten the lock-nut on the tensioner screw because I can not reach it with a wrench inside the deep opening. The lock-nut on the tensioner screw is not in the view of the access window so putting a wrench to it is not possible. Also, what is the exact width of the tensioner screw-head?
@@groundhogequipment Not the tensioner screw head, I can access that. I am speaking about the Lock-nut/Jam-nut. It is not accessible through the small access panel on my ZH24D-2. The accessibility inside the panel might be different on different mini-ex's. I can post a picture of it, if that will help.
@@groundhogequipment It's almost like I have the wrong side panels for my tracks because the access window does not line up with the Tensioner like all the others
Thanks, I've been doing it the wrong way for 20 years 😂. I need to kept watching your videos and learning. Thanks, you're doing a great job.
I know on my ZH20D with mechanical adjustment the tracks needed adjusting every couple of hours for the first 30 hours then every few hours for the next 30 - 35 hours. Between 75 and 100 hours a slight adjustment was needed. Almost no stretch with about 120 hours as of today. I did buy a ratcheting wrench that fits the adjusting/lock nuts for faster/easier adjustments. Great video!
What size ratcheting wrench did it take?
@@YamahaC7SRG 36MM Made adjusting track and tightening the jam nut so easy. Remove your access cover to verify before ordering though.
@@normhowes2975 Thanks! It's a bear with a crescent wrench...
Love these videos
Great vid fella.
What are the pros and cons to rubber and steel??ty please keep us informed.
With rubber tracks, the sprocket may experience less wear compared to steel tracks because rubber tracks are generally lighter and exert less stress on the undercarriage components. However, rubber tracks can stretch over time, causing increased wear on the sprocket teeth as they engage with the track. Steel tracks typically exert more force on the undercarriage components, including the sprocket, due to their heavier weight. The constant engagement of steel tracks with the sprocket teeth can also cause wear over time, especially in demanding operating conditions or when the tracks are not adequately lubricated.
What would cause the machine to hump and rock when driven on flat ground. Almost like there's a small log between the track and drive motor. Something loose? Thoughts? Thanks.
debris in the hydraulic fluid or drive motor, possibly air in the system. Some units controls may need to be feathered, when tracking instant full flow to the drives can cause that to momentarily overload and unbalance the drive system
@groundhogequipment appreciate the reply but this doesn't feel like a hydraulic issue it's not like a stuttering in the drive. It feels more mechanical and the Machine is literally rocking left and right like something is not running centered. Just trying to get ideas on what could be causing it. It's pretty pronounced.
How do you get the grease out of the grease tensioner?
Do you check the track with it in the air or can I check while the track is on the ground?
We prefer in the air. Use a wrench to loosen the bleeder valve or fitting slightly. Be careful not to remove it entirely, as grease may shoot out under pressure. As you loosen the valve, grease will start to come out slowly. To speed up the process, gently push the front idler inward using a pry bar (make sure the machine is safely supported if it's off the ground). Let the grease bleed out until the track tension is reduced to your desired level. Once you've released enough grease, tighten the valve securely to prevent leaks and clean any excess grease from the area.
Thanks for the trackinformation. I have a MIVA VA 13C. There is an issue running on flat area with gravel. connsistently the track spins then lock up. Is this a tension issue and /or lube problem. Once cleaned it operates properly. Is this an normal issue? What can be done to reduce the track issue?
The steel threads in the track may be worn, sounds like its not holding tension
Hello.
could you give me the spring dimensions? (length, thickness and diameter of the spring) I'm making a track drive, but I don't know what kind of spring it should be. thank you
What model are you looking for the dimensions on?
For this white one on the video. I have rubber track 200x72x44.
Thank you.
Thanks
Tell you how I can get mechanical tensioner
Can you tell me how to get part please
Hi, So, the "bars"... Are there several bars set up across the track that are molded into the rubber where the wheel sprocket pulls?
Yes, they are molded into the rubber track.
Apx 1 inch play from center of track.
I have a new Leite HT1012 mini excavator with 3.5 hours of run time. The passenger side track just started making a metal-on-metal sounding squeal in the forward direction only. I can't figure where it is coming from. Any ideas?
Check the sprocket and track assembly for any debris or rubbing
I have the ZH24D-2 and I am having difficulty keeping my rubber tracks on. I am only able to finger-tighten the lock-nut on the tensioner screw because I can not reach it with a wrench inside the deep opening. The lock-nut on the tensioner screw is not in the view of the access window so putting a wrench to it is not possible. Also, what is the exact width of the tensioner screw-head?
The screw head can be adjusted using a 1 1/2" extended socket wrench.
@@groundhogequipment Not the tensioner screw head, I can access that. I am speaking about the Lock-nut/Jam-nut. It is not accessible through the small access panel on my ZH24D-2. The accessibility inside the panel might be different on different mini-ex's. I can post a picture of it, if that will help.
Can you email us a picture looking into the access window? groundhogequipment@outlook.com
@@groundhogequipment Done! BTW, I believe the tensioner screw head is a 1-7/16"
@@groundhogequipment It's almost like I have the wrong side panels for my tracks because the access window does not line up with the Tensioner like all the others
Are there heavier duty tracks available?
we do offer steel tracks for an additional upgrade fee.