the level of detail is amazing, thanks for taking the time to create this video as its one of the only ones I found that didn't just slap a big junction box to the outside wall and have a huge wall wart sticking out in the end.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Yes sir...Got a home renavation going on now so this is very useful so when they finish I can add 2 coach lights on each side of the garge door.
I say perfect 5 star wouldn't doubt this guy getting many more just his easy going spirit , very informative , I really enjoyed this class video 👍 people be honest this is 5 star level , truth won't hurt neither your 5 Stars great effort has been shown , show we appreciate his knowledge passing through the the world leaving great impact >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Extremely detailed and informative. I'm not looking to do a job this advanced myself as its a bit above my pay grade, but I enjoyed watching you and learning. Thanks
Hi, just to let you know that I enjoyed your video a lot. You talk slow, you take time to explain interesting additional bits to everything you're doing. It's informative and easy to follow. I hope you get more subscribers to make it worth all your efforts. Good luck and thanks for posting this video.
Good job! I was looking for something to shoe how to replace an existing worn plastic box and this is it. However as a former industrial maintenance tech I would never work hot unless absolutely necessary.Accidents happen in a split second.
Great video. I didn't know grounding clips existed so that's a cool thing I learned. Also, I don't think you needed to make a hole on the interior side of the wall to run the wiring. Since you had easy access in your basement and were able to fish inside the wall, you can grab it from the outside hole. Maybe a hook or pliers would be needed to grab it but definitely no extra hole required
NEC requires you to bond the metal box using a screw or clip NEC 250.8(A) NEC 250.96(A) NEC 250.148 NEC 314.40(D) That line is way to small for 200A breakers.
I want to add a receptacle outdoors for Christmas lights. Can't I just do what you did outside and add the wires to the inside receptacle just as though you would do running an extension cord through the window from that same inside receptacle?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oh, well Thanks Dave! And thanks for being so detailed w/ instruction and your talented work! So many miss the artistry of the service they perform. When you perform in this manner it actually becomes work, no-more! Happy Sunday to you and yours, Sir!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I’m no electrician, nor do I claim to be, but my common sense says there’s gotta be another anchor/proper method…? I can’t say that I’d feel comfortable with just mortar because I’m about to do this exact process on a plug I use quite often and I feel like over time that would eventually loosen up that mortar pulling and pushing cords in and out on it. The TayMac single gang box I’m planning on using has NO lips or places to Mount from the side of it after it’s inserted which is where this question derived from
@@richardhicks Here's a typical metal masonry box. www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-2-1-2-in-D-Steel-Gray-1-Gang-Gangable-Masonry-Box-with-Eight-TKO-s-1-Pack-688/202220565 The mortar will hold it very securely. The box I replaced had been in the brick since 1962.
You can use plastic, Drew. I used metal because this thing might be in there another 50 years and I thought plastic might get brittle and break eventually---especially as they have to deal with the cover plates being pulled open every time it is used---and there's a lot of spring tension there. Thanks for the comment.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You can not use a plastic box in masonry. You have to use a box rated for masonry, which by the way the box you used in the video is not rated for masonry either.
@@PackFanDave Can you list the code for this? I know they make boxes designed for masonry ( www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-1-Gang-Non-Gangable-Masonry-Box-with-10-Concentric-KOs-and-3-1-2-in-Deep-8695/308136210 ) but I can't find where the code says they're required. Thanks for the input. The more info the better!
Do you think using mortar would be superior to using construction adhesive to secure the box into the hole? My storage building is all block and I want to add more outlets on the inside. Thanks for your reply.
You could certainly use construction adhesive, but I think mortar would be the better option regarding looks, longevity, solidity, and fire resistance.
It's 12 gauge wire to match the 20 Amp breaker. I try to always run 12 gauge to receptacles unless it's an existing 15 Amp circuit, then I'll run 14 gauge. Thanks for the question, David.
I don't understand why you removed the old box and cut a hole in the drywall if you has access to the basements. I would have gone therough the hole in the box and from a hole in the basement hooked 2 fish sticks, heck even two coat hangers with hooks made on the ends would do that. Then just use that to pull your wire up from the basement into your old box. ???
It's a sub panel, so it's being fed from a breaker in a panel upstream. As long as the feeder is being protected by an appropriately sized breaker, it's safe. There's a lot of circuits on that small feeder though. Considering the close proximity to the panel feeding it, I don't see any reason not to buy larger wire and upgrade the feeder. I can only assume that it was meant to be temporary until larger wire could be purchased.
@@Mike_Neukamyes, you are right but the cables look a little small inside the yellow jacket that is why I was not sure if it is 12 or 14 gauge cables. 12 gauge cables are usually hard to bend in the box…
This video shows exactly why you should hire an electrician of you want the job to be done correctly and not listen to a handyman who doesn't know correct way to install a masonry box. (1) The box used in the video is not rated for masonry. (2) Grounding clips are not allowed in masonry and you must bond the box with a ground screw. (3) NM-B wiring is not allowed to be run in masonry.
Nice job and well-detailed video, but I cringed a bit when I saw that you were wearing flip-flops to do brick-cutting and electrical work outside. Your almost-bare feet would have been a very low resistance path to ground if you had come into any contact with live wires. Boots with non-slip soles are best, but almost any closed-toe, rubber-soled footwear insulates you from the ground fairly well.
You're absolutely right, Larry. And I've been buzzed by enough hot wires while wearing rubber soled shoes that I should know better! Thanks for the kind and helpful comment Larry!
"Clown"? Luca...If you knew anything about electrical work, you would have noticed that the metal box IS grounded from the attached receptacle. See the little gold clip on one of the GFCI receptacle retention screws? That's specifically there to electrically bond the metal electrical box to the receptacle frame, which is directly connected to the ground wire. His install is absolutely code compliant in the USA.
@@ljsmith99 "If you knew anything about electrical work," The fact that you think he did anything right in this video shows that you don't know anything about electrical work.
the level of detail is amazing, thanks for taking the time to create this video as its one of the only ones I found that didn't just slap a big junction box to the outside wall and have a huge wall wart sticking out in the end.
Thank YOU for the kind comment!
Awsome and extremely detailed illustrations! Thanks a lot for sharing! Cheers
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the kind comment!
Video was very informative and very thorough. Exactly what I needed from beginning to end. I gave this video five stars! Thank you sir
Thank YOU for the kind comment Charles!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Yes sir...Got a home renavation going on now so this is very useful so when they finish I can add 2 coach lights on each side of the garge door.
@@charlesjones7681 Nice. All the best on your project, Charles!
I say perfect 5 star wouldn't doubt this guy getting many more just his easy going spirit , very informative , I really enjoyed this class video 👍 people be honest this is 5 star level , truth won't hurt neither your 5 Stars great effort has been shown , show we appreciate his knowledge passing through the the world leaving great impact >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Your kind comment is much appreciated!
Extremely detailed and informative. I'm not looking to do a job this advanced myself as its a bit above my pay grade, but I enjoyed watching you and learning. Thanks
Thanks for the kind comment!
Receptacle is as basic as it gets when it comes to electrical work.
Hi, just to let you know that I enjoyed your video a lot. You talk slow, you take time to explain interesting additional bits to everything you're doing. It's informative and easy to follow. I hope you get more subscribers to make it worth all your efforts. Good luck and thanks for posting this video.
Thanks for the kind comment, Ben. It really means a lot!
Amazing job, man! I've been looking to hang some sconces by my garage door and this video helped me big time.
Thanks, and glad to hear. All the best on your project!
perfect for diy projects. I'm not doing it but i enjoy watching it. ❤
Good job! I was looking for something to shoe how to replace an existing worn plastic box and this is it. However as a former industrial maintenance tech I would never work hot unless absolutely necessary.Accidents happen in a split second.
Great video. I didn't know grounding clips existed so that's a cool thing I learned.
Also, I don't think you needed to make a hole on the interior side of the wall to run the wiring. Since you had easy access in your basement and were able to fish inside the wall, you can grab it from the outside hole. Maybe a hook or pliers would be needed to grab it but definitely no extra hole required
Thanks. I just didn't think I'd be able to fish it through ... but would have been quicker if I could have, like you say.
If you ever end up dressing the wires in your sub panel you should film it. id love to see how you do it.
Excellent work. Going to do this soon.
Thanks! May your project be a satisfying one Really BadAim :-)
NEC requires you to bond the metal box using a screw or clip NEC 250.8(A) NEC 250.96(A) NEC 250.148 NEC 314.40(D)
That line is way to small for 200A breakers.
I want to add a receptacle outdoors for Christmas lights. Can't I just do what you did outside and add the wires to the inside receptacle just as though you would do running an extension cord through the window from that same inside receptacle?
Sure, Chris, you can tap into the inside receptacle if there is space in the box.
Excellent Video Mate.
Nice Work ⚡🙏⚡
Thank you very much!
Barely dampen the brick n mortar with a sponge of rag before applying mortar. Sticks a lil easier. Just make sure that it’s not live wire!!!!
Good advice, Dan.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oh, well Thanks Dave! And thanks for being so detailed w/ instruction and your talented work! So many miss the artistry of the service they perform. When you perform in this manner it actually becomes work,
no-more! Happy Sunday to you and yours, Sir!
@@djlaiben Thanks and same to you, Dan :-)
Good work, subbed! I’m an electrician btw looks like you have some trade skills or possibly have done some electrical work
Thanks, Michael! I sincerely appreciate a kind comment like that from an electrician... I do have a few permitted jobs under my belt :-)
What is holding that gang box in place aside from the mortar?
Nothing else, Richard. Just mortar.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I’m no electrician, nor do I claim to be, but my common sense says there’s gotta be another anchor/proper method…? I can’t say that I’d feel comfortable with just mortar because I’m about to do this exact process on a plug I use quite often and I feel like over time that would eventually loosen up that mortar pulling and pushing cords in and out on it. The TayMac single gang box I’m planning on using has NO lips or places to Mount from the side of it after it’s inserted which is where this question derived from
@@richardhicks Here's a typical metal masonry box. www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-2-1-2-in-D-Steel-Gray-1-Gang-Gangable-Masonry-Box-with-Eight-TKO-s-1-Pack-688/202220565 The mortar will hold it very securely. The box I replaced had been in the brick since 1962.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thank you for the swift responses.
I have to do something similar, a old brick with plaster over it, which concrete can I use to install the box in
You'd use a type "N" mortar.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks
Matching the color of the new mortar to the existing mortar is a challenge so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.
How long did it take for the mortar to set up & harden before you could finish wiring?
When mortaring in the electrical box, do you have to use a metal one or is a plastic one sufficient? Cant seem to find a decent answer to this online
You can use plastic, Drew. I used metal because this thing might be in there another 50 years and I thought plastic might get brittle and break eventually---especially as they have to deal with the cover plates being pulled open every time it is used---and there's a lot of spring tension there. Thanks for the comment.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You can not use a plastic box in masonry. You have to use a box rated for masonry, which by the way the box you used in the video is not rated for masonry either.
@@PackFanDave Can you list the code for this? I know they make boxes designed for masonry ( www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-1-Gang-Non-Gangable-Masonry-Box-with-10-Concentric-KOs-and-3-1-2-in-Deep-8695/308136210 ) but I can't find where the code says they're required. Thanks for the input. The more info the better!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for proving you are completely clueless. Oh wait, you already proved it with this terrible video.
Do you think using mortar would be superior to using construction adhesive to secure the box into the hole? My storage building is all block and I want to add more outlets on the inside. Thanks for your reply.
You could certainly use construction adhesive, but I think mortar would be the better option regarding looks, longevity, solidity, and fire resistance.
How long did you let it dry before you wired it
Lovly and nice you did good job. 👍👍
Thank you! 😊
Have you had any issues with the box unseating itself from the mortar and coming out of the wall?
No. It's remained solid ... and I use it a lot. Thanks for the question.
You need to turn off power with the master breaker for safety. One slip of the hand and you will be shocked.
Neutral side up in Canada 👍🏼
What gauge wire?
It's 12 gauge wire to match the 20 Amp breaker. I try to always run 12 gauge to receptacles unless it's an existing 15 Amp circuit, then I'll run 14 gauge. Thanks for the question, David.
I don't understand why you removed the old box and cut a hole in the drywall if you has access to the basements. I would have gone therough the hole in the box and from a hole in the basement hooked 2 fish sticks, heck even two coat hangers with hooks made on the ends would do that. Then just use that to pull your wire up from the basement into your old box. ???
Dude, WOW running 10 AWG cable as main line to 200AMPS panel is a fire hazard
who did that to you???
It's a sub panel, so it's being fed from a breaker in a panel upstream. As long as the feeder is being protected by an appropriately sized breaker, it's safe. There's a lot of circuits on that small feeder though. Considering the close proximity to the panel feeding it, I don't see any reason not to buy larger wire and upgrade the feeder. I can only assume that it was meant to be temporary until larger wire could be purchased.
You Use Same Grounding Cable
Only One Passing By Green Nut
On The Box.
You Donot Need 3 Cables
Amén.
GFCI 20amps with 14 gauge cables is not recommended.
The yellow jacket indicates that it is 12ga wire
@@Mike_Neukamyes, you are right but the cables look a little small inside the yellow jacket that is why I was not sure if it is 12 or 14 gauge cables. 12 gauge cables are usually hard to bend in the box…
This video shows exactly why you should hire an electrician of you want the job to be done correctly and not listen to a handyman who doesn't know correct way to install a masonry box.
(1) The box used in the video is not rated for masonry.
(2) Grounding clips are not allowed in masonry and you must bond the box with a ground screw.
(3) NM-B wiring is not allowed to be run in masonry.
Also didn’t have a weather resistant receptacle
Wet the brick it would stick better
Nice job and well-detailed video, but I cringed a bit when I saw that you were wearing flip-flops to do brick-cutting and electrical work outside. Your almost-bare feet would have been a very low resistance path to ground if you had come into any contact with live wires. Boots with non-slip soles are best, but almost any closed-toe, rubber-soled footwear insulates you from the ground fairly well.
You're absolutely right, Larry. And I've been buzzed by enough hot wires while wearing rubber soled shoes that I should know better! Thanks for the kind and helpful comment Larry!
The bare feet was the least of the idiocy in this video.
Gotta ground the receptacle you clown
thought it was code to have the box grounded and the outlet grounded.
larger box could have been good.
"Clown"? Luca...If you knew anything about electrical work, you would have noticed that the metal box IS grounded from the attached receptacle. See the little gold clip on one of the GFCI receptacle retention screws? That's specifically there to electrically bond the metal electrical box to the receptacle frame, which is directly connected to the ground wire. His install is absolutely code compliant in the USA.
@@ljsmith99 "If you knew anything about electrical work,"
The fact that you think he did anything right in this video shows that you don't know anything about electrical work.
You can buy mortar in a caulking gun. Duh
Great video learned how to wire a gfci in 30 mins 🫶