FYI for anyone watching this and trying to configure PROBE BOUNDARIES in Marling 2.0.X, those settings now moved to the CONFIGURATION_ADV.H file: Also just set your X / Y offset values for the edges, no need define the coordinate (my example is X-42 & Y-16) #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 42 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 42 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 20 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 20
@@Paint0nBrush yep, now you want to edit CONFIGURATION_ADV.H uncomment and edit the following: (values are based on my offset of -42 and -16 which i made 20) #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT 42 #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT 42 #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT 20 #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK 20
(I am the developer of ADVi3++). Thanks for your work and your videos. For information, I am considering integrating these changes in the next version of ADVi3++ (version 4.0). I will also add a screen to let users set the probing position and probing area on the LCD panel (instead of require them to compile their own version). I will add another screen to help them find the right Z height. As you have done, I will definitely remove the Z endstop and replace it by the BLTouch. I have not done this previously because I was not sure the BLTouch is reliable enough. But it is. There are also lots of other improvements in the pipeline (as voted by the sponsors of the ADVi3++ project). In a second time (i.e. in a few months), I am also considering supporting other probes, the Mark II version of the i3 Plus and also the Duplicator 9 printers that are apparently close to the i3 plus hardware.
Hi Sebastien, I'm a big fan of your work. I'm surrounded by printers but the CCT is one of the best to use thanks to your updated touch screen UI. I look forward to the future updates on what is already a quality package.
Just tried this on my Ender 3. Only updated the Marlin code, and saw a huge difference. Went from 2:52 down to 1:29 (5x5 grid). Thank you so much for this
This is a great guide. I encourage everybody to brave the firmware! It was a bit of an adventure installing BLtouch on my CR-10 S5 and this video would have been a great resource. One thing to note for larger build plates is that you can alter the amount of points it probes. I have a 7x7 grid that hits about every 50mm (I don't have it in my start gcode). Marlin firmware is very friendly and has little blurbs that explain each option in the "configuration.h" file. Even if you don't flash, you can download and scroll through it to see what it has to offer.
Done on my i3 Mega-S, since the stock boundaries and probing speed weren't that good. Now, it's way faster using a 2-pass probing (from 3:30 to about 2:05-2:10) and centered on the bed using a really larger area, with much more consistent and stable results. Thanks for this one ! :) The only thing I won't do for now is using the BL-Touch as endstop. Maybe someday ...
Great guide. I have a camera boom that would collide with the default sensor mount. Never knew it was so easy to move the position of the sensor and probe area.
I have a self built 3D printer using skynet (aka Marlin), because I am still using a controller board from an Anet A8. Oddly enough most of the settings that you have used here are what the defaults are in my firmware. The only thing I change manually now is the Z probe offset "Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER", if I make changes to my printer. This usually occurs if I am changing to a new nozzle type or have made a tweak to the probe bracket. You have to change the offset using some method and this can be done via a terminal as well, or there is a setting in menus as well. I just prefer changing the firmware but all methods are valid. I've been having issues with 3d printed mounts myself. There is a good amount of heat near my mount so I'm changing mine to an aluminum one to stop if from flexing when I'm printing ABS or similar higher temp filaments. Good tutorial though, I encourage people to test out many of the settings in Marlin. Learn what the settings are though, poking around without a clue can have some undesirable effects =P
Great comment. People don't realise that if you make an error in Marlin, you can undo and reflash. It's definitely an educational experience to explore and tinker.
I saw the previous video you did and I had to wonder why they slowed down the probing so very much. I knew they had modified the firmware and I am glad that you showed the "fix" though this is more of an adjustment of values. The comments in the code are a great start as well, if there is something that you don't understand, just ask the community or just carefully observe the results of the changes and iterate through different values until you understand what value does what.
As ever, you are very clear and informative. Not only that, but the efforts and trial & error to find good values is so useful and time-saving. I got a little lost for parts 2 & 3, but I wasn't so interested in that part. The speedup section was great. Keep up the good work!
Another great tutorial Michael, well done. The idea of getting the probe as close as possible to the nozzle is a good one as I have had the real issue of the X carriage rods being slightly out of perpendicular to the bed at one end, causing the error to be magnified in the BLtouch probing at that end resulting in less than stellar results in bed adhesion. I have mentioned this to the developer and was the one who left the comment that you alluded to in your video (my comment to the developer can be seen on the developers site around 5:42 in your video). I can attest to the fact that it was certainly real for me and after adjusting the Z plane to be equal along its length in relation to the bed, my 'problem' dissappeared. My point being that getting the nozzle and the probe as close as possible must lessen the chance of any error in alignment of the X carriage rods (Z plane perpendicular to the bed) manifesting itself. I also really like your speed increase as that was a bit of a bug bear for me. As long as the accuracy is not lost of course, and from your testing it would appear not. Wonder if it's worth mentioning that if anyone who does your changes but then opts for a later version of the Andrivet software down the track (as it's still in development) will/may have to reinstate those changes to avoid any issues especially considering that there were changes made in the hardware wiring. I'm sure that will be obvious to most but may not be for some. Just a thought. Once again, well described and useful content. Cheers.
Hi Daryl, thanks for taking the time for posting such as thorough comment. I'm glad you got on top of your issues. Mine seems to work quite well, I'm pleased with it. It's a good point you make in regaeds to updating configuration.h in future. There was a comment in the docs for ADVi3pp that mentioned still using the z endstop 'for now', hopefully these types of changes will be included in future releases.
the Z feedrate was the best change out of all of them, thanks. I saw a guy who had his thing going fast in another youtube vid but couldn't figure out how he did it
You should increase the font size or with your editing software zoom the video a bit more on the text, it’s a bit hard to read even at 1080 on my desktop monitor but you talking through does help a lot
Is there any other discussion with Sebastien about the repositioning of the probe, I’m going to do it anyway and will just document the changes so it will be easier to do for any ADVi3 further versions if they don’t include the mod. I have a Flexion too and did not need the modified mount, I’ve got to make the standard one 🤔 I did find the arduino text a little hard to read as well 😕 just a little bigger would be good... Thanks!
Thank you for the hard work Michael. I tried it today with my Ender 3 and 1.1.9 Marlin. The only thing I did wrong, was not setting Marlin up for the Ender 3 first. there are files that are needed other than the config files you created. The IDE let me know pretty quick that something was missing. I corrected that and entered my offsets for the extruder and it worked like a champ. A little more tweaking and I will be good to go. Easy upgrade for such a beneficial tool. Thanks again and best regards. [][][]Steve
Thanks for the detailed vid, it helped me set up my 3D touch clone on my generic seld build printer. Ive got mine mounted on the back of the e3d hotend head I have with 0mm offset on the X axis and 20mm to the rear of the nozzle on the y axis. My printer is capable of 300mm travel x, y and z so with a 230mm build plate fitted the head can travel outside the build surface area therefore my probing rectangle extends all the way to 5mm from each edge. I did all the speed changes too and now it works like a dream and really quick too. I plugged it into z min from the start, it made no sense to have a seperate method for z homing. Keep up the good work!
Funny, I have a new stock basic Ender 3, bought in June 2020, and with the removable stock built plate, I never have to level my bed. Prints stick perfectly and pop right off easily. It really is no hassle compared to my old Prusa clone with its dual Z axis, blue tape, glue sticks and inductive Z probe.
For anyone doing this for their Ender 3 using Marlin 2.0.x firmware, BLTOUCH_DELAY default is 500 and cant go below 200. He said the lowest for his was 75 and his max was 275. He set it to 100. We cannot set ours to 100, but since our lowest is 200, then we can set ours to around 225-250 although 275-300 is also good. His value was 26.6% of his max value. With Marlinx-2.0.x 26.6% of our max value of 500 is 133 and thats below 200.. So im guessing 200 is fast enough but 225 should be ok. If you try to compile below 200 the devs through in a message at compile time that values below 200 are dangerous for the printer. So you cant choose below 200 or else the compiler will error.
The BLtouch is a great little piece of hardware, unfortunately in a good portion of the community it has been regarded as too slow, my wanhao duplicator i3 plus is in bits atm (was just sticking a titan aero to it) but I thought I'd give myself a long term project and make myself learn fusion a bit more (large(r) scale 3d printer) + need to check if/how I can change main board but keeping the touch screen, gives me something to do after all.
I've noticed that too ... saw some differences and am wondering what changes you made. Doing the last part (because I do use a glass top on my print bed) I am comparing my firmware to what I see above and at 11:18 or so I can see #ifdef ADV13PP_BLTOUCH above the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING. And then again at 11:35 I see the same thing right above the change he is outlining. My firmware does not list this, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't needed. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your great BLTouch and vanilla Marlin video series. They are well done and very helpful. Please increase the zoom or Arduino IDE font size, it is sometimes hard to read.
Hi Michael, Great video mate. I've gone ahead and done the mod with your front mounted BLTouch mount. while I'm having consistently perfect first layers the probe is nearly parallel to the bed with the nozzle. I'm using the Flexion extruder with a Ciii Cooler (practically the same setup as yours) the only difference is mine is the Monoprice Maker Select. So i'm not sure if there were any differences with the X carriage. I may design a slightly thinner BLTouch front mount to give myself peace of mind. Nothing but praise for your work you do for us. Just some feedback from someone who has done your mod. Take care
Hi Craig, thanks for watching and for feeding back. On the Thingiverse link there should be multiple versions to try to move the probe higher or lower, are you already using the thinnest one?
I'm over it. I've spent a few days trying to get my bl touch clone working. I've dont the bootloader, firmware upgrades etc. I've tried everything....marlin....th3d etc. watched all the videos, confused myself with different versions not knowing what is what. the bl touch works mechanically, but that's about it. prolly about 5mm off bed surface when printing. going to take it off soon and work out what I need to do to deactivate it and go back to manually levelling bed. it's obvious I'm a noob, but so many videos with so many different ways to config etc....
Hi Michael, yet another fantastic guide, thank you so much. Got another question if you don't mind. At 9.35 I see you also have Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER set to -1.54, is this to compensate for your BL Touch being a little too high? The bottom of the white case on my BL Touch is currently mounted and is 10mm higher than the nozzle tip. Do I need to shim the BLT so that it is lower (what distance should I aim for)? Forgot to mention, this is on my CR10-S4.
That -1.54is what was set up by the developer of that version of the firmware: advi3++. On the Tornado I left it at zero. I think 8 to 8.5 mm is a good height from the tip of the nozzle to the BLTouch body, not the moveable probe. Check out diagram under specifications half way down this page: www.antclabs.com/bltouch
Hi Michael, I like all of your tutorials, clear and informative, Are you going to test the new ADVi3++ Version 4, will you make a tutorial for that. If you can make a tutorial for Ender 3, will be great. Thanks.
I have a quick question on this: doing the last part (because I do use a glass top on my print bed) I am comparing my firmware to what I see above and at 11:18 or so I can see #ifdef ADV13PP_BLTOUCH above the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING. And then again at 11:35 I see the same thing right above the change you are outlining. My firmware does not list this, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't needed. Thanks!
Micheal - Firstly i'd just like to say how excellent your tutorials are, I watch them all (several times over for reference too). Am I being dumb, but I think I am either missing something or have had a total mind block!....How do I connect to my Ender 3 Pro now that I have the boot loader installed along with a Raspberry Pi with TH3D Firmware on it. Basically I need to refresh the firmware to have it set up with the BL Touch changes you detailed here.. Thanks so much in advance, as I am really stuck!!!
Hello! I've got a strange issue, maybe you're familiar with this... The repeatability test gives range ~ 0.018. I've set Bilinear, 5x5 in Marlin. While printing it gives the same "hills". I've noticed it by printing several parts (one after each other) and then a bed grid to see where are the issues. So the "hills" are exactly in the same spots as I've got on model printing. There I've got a very very thing skirt with a zero zone where plastic smoothly "dissapears". Then I've uncommented EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID and ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION. Repeated the grid - no difference. The difference in zones is so noticeable that in some places a filament path just rips off the bed while on others it "dissapears". I'm using a good hair spray for adhesion. It couldn't give that differences (if it's in this topic at all), just spraying (no wet brushing). I can show the photographs if it will help. What it can be? _ P.S. It's Tevo Flash, BLTouch is in the center, on the back from nozzle.
Hey man great videos I always watch them. I have a cr10 s5 with bltouch running marlin it works great but it seem like when I print my left side of bed is lower than the right side bltouch is supposed to correct that but seem like it doesn't some prints don't get close enough on the left side but the right side is always perfect I've tried manually leveling the left side but doesn't seem to help. Any clue as to why this is happening?
can you please do a full video on how to use it? I just ordered on but still have no idea how it works, Do I still have to move the bed leveling wheels? I dont get how it works and no videos explain this.
I hooked up a BL touch to my CR-10 using a pin 27 board. Now my display is dead and I can't connect to it with octopi. I put everything back to stock and still does same thing. Did I somehow fry my motherboard? I triple checked the wiring before I turned it on to make sure I didn't let the magic smoke out. No smoke.
Hi TT, I am trying to set an skr 1.4 Turbo up with a Bltouch for Z probing and bed levelling but using the onboard Bltouch connector is proving to be a non starter, I am told by others to use the Z stop socket for the Bltouch black and white wires but i dont know how to setup in the Marlin 2 firmware could you help please ?
@@TeachingTech I was on mobile. It's legible on PC. Sorry for the tone. I've been bouncing around about 6 videos trying to config Marlin 119-bugfix for stock LCD, MKS Gen L, TMC2130 sensorless homing w/ SPI, and BL Touch. Seems I can get something from each, but not sure I've got it together yet.
Wonderful lessons you give, thank you, thank you.. my question is that, is there a way to set the BLTouch in Marlin to be able to (after following this video) to understand to set the mesh to understand that 'for this print' I am at .2 level or 0.16, 0.12 etc. instead of leveling at the standard .2 height that was set for the first time. or a way that you know to gcode on ender 3 pro to set the Z babystepping for a different layer print? I hope I am asking this right.... i understand this is a minor difference in first layer height, but it would still affect it(squishing, etc.). or am I stuck in manually re-meshing and re-babystepping for different layer height prints everytime....
Another awesome video, I can't wait to try this upgrade. How well does the ciii cooler work? I have already printed it but I'm afraid to install it because I put a upgraded cooler with a 50mm fan on my Ender 3 and I had to turn the fan down to 25% to get any decent layer adhesion. If you could let me know how it's working for you so I can decide which mount to use. Thanks Michael.
Hi Jim, Ciii cooler seems to work well. Haven't printed anything to really test it out but I can feel air from all sides on my finger when placed underneath. I run 60% speed compared to 100% for standard fan, as you say it's much more powerful. The side mount will actually fit with the Ciii cooler too. Maybe try upping yout extruder temp by 5 degrees if layer adhesion is still an issue?
Michael I was wondering last night if the sensor has to be on the left side? Would there be any advantage on mounting it on the stepper side, less need to alter the quadrant it works in? just curious.
You can put it wherever you like, as long as you update the offset from the nozzle and the probing area. The closer to the nozzle the better, hence why I made the front mount version.
Thanks for the video Michael, I did this mod using the other tutorial but always wanted to use the TH3D firmware so this def helped. Im having an issue I wonder if anyone else is having. I can't seem to do anything once the print starts. The screen freezes and the printer bugs out or stops when ever I try to do anything via the click wheel. Anyone else experiencing this?
Hi Michael I have been wondering if my compensation is actually working at all. I have noticed at the 5.15 min mark where you show your gcode there is no mention of a M420 S1 to re-enable the compensation if you have a G28 and a G29 . I am just wondering as it mentions it on the BLTouch site at the bottom of the page. andrivet.github.io/ADVi3pp-User-Manual/03-BLTouch.html If this is the case where should the M420 S1 be inserted? After the G28 but before the G29 or elsewhere, or does it not matter? Many thanks for these great videos.
Hi Ross, my understanding is with Marlin that the G29 values are retained if used at the start of print. If you want to save time, you can just use G28 (which discards the saved mesh unless you change a firmware setting) and retrieve a previous mesh with M420. The newer versions of ADVi3pp may have changed this. To see if it is working, put your finger on the z coupler at the start of a print to see if it is turning very slightly.
@@TeachingTech Hi Michael thanks for the reply, I have thought about the finger on the Z coupler as well but havent tried it yet, some say use the M420 s1 instead of G29? who knows worth a try though, I am only curious because I have used your setup from this video stages 1&2 but not 3 as I dont intend to change surfaces. Great stuff though thanks for the efforts you take.
Holy Cow, Micheal. That was an awesome tutorial on the BL Touch. The auto leveling was certainly time consuming and I was getting very frustrated as a manual level would get the first layer perfect then I would auto level and everything would go out of wack again. High on the right and low on the left. I ended up removing G29 from the start script and not use the BL Touch. Will print your center mount and calibrate the firmware and hopefully I will be able to start using the BL Touch again. Thanks for all the hard work you have put into knocking this one out. Cheers :)
Hi Micheal. I printed out and fitted the center mount but it appears too low when using the gauge that I printed for the adjustable mount. I am running a flexion extruder and it looks to be about 1mm lower than it should be. Any tips on adjusting. Cheers. :)
hey i did the first part of ur adjustment with it working fine but i could not get the bltouch to act like a zstop. it would just keep going down when i tried to auto home.i know that im missing a setting,can u please help
Love your videos! Have you ever put the BL touch on an cr10s? I am looking to do this and it will be my first time. All I ever find is the CR10s pro which is different. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks keep up with the cool videos!
I really want to try this. But I have the older model Cocoon Create V2 (The black one with the controller on the side). Is it doable following this method? I've been told I will need to use the TH3D firmware instead. I'm new to this, so a big learning curve for me.
Just to be clear and I dont end making a disaster =P You just disconnect the Z endstop switch and put in place the BLtouch change the code and that it? That means if I disconnect my switch and change the code will work for my CR-10 (I have the BLtouch and my endstop connected in the same place) I really will love to be able to change surfaces w/o re-level the endstop switch.
That is correct. The BLTouch replaces the old end stop switch. You might find my recent video on fitting a BLTouch to an Ender 3 much closer to what you need. Either way, live the nozzle high before homing for the first time and trigger the probe with your hand. If it doesn't stop trying to home, reverse the black and white wires from the bltouch to the mainboard.
Thanks Michael!!! My BL Touch arrived today, and I'm printing your mount. Is there any chance that you could share your compiled changes for someone who's not the best in Arduino?
What can be the problem if you still don't get your bed leveled with bl touch I just can't get it straight anymore, no matter whether with manual bed leveling or with the bl touch what can be the problem?
I have some issues, I can't get a symmetrical bed probing mesh. My BLTouch is left/forward to my nozzle (X=-42 & Y=-5), so I already set the offset for my BLTouch (#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -42 & #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5), so the center of the bed is really the center for printing - I tried setting the home offsets as someone suggested, but then my prints are no longer in the center then - I set the bed level positions to : #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 148 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 185 But this still gives me a non symmetrical bed leveling. All help is very much appreciated. Thanks Michael for your many appreciated videos, it really helped me to like 3D printing (and fiddling with it)
Absolutely. Just have to measure the X and y offsets from the nozzle and enter like I did here. That and calculating the probing grid boundaries like in the animations.
Oh yes! I recently did the Marlin version on my Ender 3 and now have ABL with BLTouch, but have lost SD access due to Sanguino memory limitations....Will that be the case with ADV as well?
tremendous video. but i cant follow the spoken-screen shot details. Any hope of you posting s simple test file with the actual file names and parameters to change. ? You dif a lot of work but i cant get the real details from the video.
I've been thinking about the lack of symetrical leveling. I was looking in the config files and figured that I would open up the X axis to 251 from 230 on an Ender 3. The X axis travels that far without hitting anything and puts the BLTouch at the right hand edge of the bed. I'm just not sure if this will cause any other issues? I can't imagine it would. Slicers are still configured with the correct bed size and as long as origin is 0,0,0 it should be ok? Would love you hear your feedback
Thank you for a very detailed and useful video. I followed it to a tee and it has worked flawlessly, I'm now consistently getting perfect first layers every time. Out of curiosity what is the remaining g code for at 5:24?
just wondering if I fit a BL Touch on an Ender 3, should I just wind the standard bed level screws down, or just leave them where they are. I ask this as my beg is warped and my glass is also high now where the warp is. so if this doesn't work then the next option is a new build plate.
What I did was get a level from my toolbox, and make sure that the four outside edges were level, then do the old paper leveling trick to make sure every point was even.
Michael thanks for the tutorials, I have the BL touch installed and behaving but a question. I have used the G29 gcode and it worked fine except it was a bit cut throat in that I wasnt able to clear away the initial purge of filament before it started, a minor point, So i have tried the G420 [?] and that was fine too. My question is with the G420 S1 setting, that uses the stored data of the last levelling so if I need to or decide to do another level check with the BL touch does that,once i have ticked it, update and store those new settings as the default? I assume so. Thanks for the great videos are you a teacher in the real world?
Just to clarify it's M420 S1. If you run the levelling from the touch screen, as far as I know it is stored automatically at the end. Thanks for the feedback, yes I am. More info about me in my channel trailer.
Great guide Michael! Phase three would be definitely the most useful feature for me, unfortunately my I3M has two Z end stop switches and I don't really know how to do wiring to connect the Bltouch. Would you have any solution ? Thanks
Why does the nozzle have to be within the boundries of the bed when leveling? It plays no part in the leveling process so I don't understand. I'd like to have the BLT move to within 20mm of all four edges of my print bed in order to get an accurate level map. The BLT mount I made puts the BLT in front of the nozzle and it is perfectly in-line with the nozzle in the X position and is -37mm in front of the nozzle, so the alignment is X=0, Y=-37.
What am I doing wrong with my BLTouch on my CR10 Max? I am having some issues getting that first layer to lay down right even after doing some manual bed leveling and adjusting the Z offset. Any suggestions would be great.
michael did you update the firmware before you did these mods? Are you still on version 2.5.1 or whatever it was? I cant update to 3.0.2 on the lcd as it is actually 3.0.1, so issues
Original firmware video was version 2.5.something. Both bltouch videos were done on 3.0.2. I suggest trying the method with Arduino like the first part of this video. Arduino will give you more feedback on issues.
Thanks for the great guide! I just tried and works! The only strange thing is every time it fails the first probe, I relaunch the print and the probe it´s fine and looks working. Any idea? Thanks!
Very strange. It should be the same each time. There is a setting for safe probing height, can't remember the exact name sorry, but it's covered in the video. You can increase it to see if that helps.
Ender 3 and bltouch with TH3d firmware and octoprint octolapse and I have a problem with fixing the position of zero by octolaps (error postioning) I can not deal with it, another problem Octoprint and built-in slicer unwilling to start printing (warming up, home and nothing ) Cura and SD card (G29) printer prints normally
Hey Michael followed your video to install my bltouch but my first layers don't seem to be affected, are you able to share your compiled firmware from this video so I can confirm I didn't miss a step. (I've got the starting g gcode that does the leveling but it doesn't seem to use the leveling grid data if the plate isn't perfectly level)
That is strange. The firmware developer is aware of this video, you are probably best contacting him. I have previously posted the compiled firmware on my Patreon.
Hi Michael, I've just finished implementing your mod and opted for the front mount. Just thought I'd raise a 'possible' issue before too many go down that path and potentially run into the same problem I, and at least one other (Morty61) who commented here, had. The front mount for me and the OP placed the BLTouch a little low (about 2mm for me) in relation to the nozzle and consequently won't allow you to adjust for the 8.3-8.5mm required gap from the device to the bed. There's no possibility to raise it any higher. I'm assuming (never a good thing I know :-)) that because you've replaced your extruder with an after market one the distances are just that little bit different although I've just noticed that Morty61 also has your Flexion Extruder as well?! Anyway, I have modified your mount to work with my setup so all good there but again, just thought I'd flag it early as I'm sure there will be quite a few who will want to get on board with this great implementation of the BLTouch. Cheers
Hi Darryl, I've just added two variations to the design on Thingiverse with different offsets. There is also a link to the Onshape source file with instructions on how to edit the offset to whatever people need. Mine fits the original spacer block pretty well but I guess there is more variation in printers than expected. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Thanks Michael! Wow, you've gone above and beyond expectations with this. You certainly don't let the grass grow under your feet. It's this attention to detail and your willingness to respond quickly to posts that make all the difference. :-) Keep up the great work and content. Thanks again.
hey mate, having a bit of trouble. I've been running the bltouch for a little while now using your videos as reference, it was set up as this video suggests with it replacing the z min. it was working awesome, but i changed my mount to your design in the center as the other mount was slowly warping, before hand it was leveling perfectly but now after changing the firmware and mount it seems to always be high on the right front and low on the left front. i have just run a test print with the glass sitting at a stupid angle. and its printing correctly, though when the glass is level it doesn't seem to get it right.
That is quite a strange situation. Some people have reported gremlins with the advi3pp version and BLTouch, so if you have eliminated play in the physical parts maybe head in that direction.
i'm currently running another test after rotating the right hand Y rod, incase thats bent, i've even removed my glass bed to eliminate that. i'm about to flash the firmware with a different scanning area to see if that helps.
Current version of ADVi3 DOES NOT COMPILE in Arduino IDE. Try it. But don't mention it to Dev or you'll get blocked from the Github when you report the issue.
Hi, I have just installed an BLTouch on my Ender 5. This machine is upgraded with the skr mini e3 1.2 board and the tft 35 from Bigtree tech. The probe is 2.6 above the nozzle. I have Marlin 2.0.6. I still have the original end stops installed and have taken off the min software end stop for z. When I activate bed leveling (bilinear) it fails with an ‚Probe error‘. I have to restart the machine. If I hit deploy when I have z=0 the probe start to blink and it locks up, keeps blinking. Since I still have the mechanical end stop on z I have the probe plugged in at servo and probe in the board. Any ideas what is happening?
I don't know if you figured it out or not but it doesn't level the bed it just probes the height and tells the software those data. So when printing, the z-axis moves up or down according to the stored values.
What are "FFF Settings"? I see you adding GCode to it but I have no idea where or what FFF Settings are. Is that a slicer? A part of Arduino? It just comes up on the screen out of nowhere
If you have the same printer as the video you need to update the LCD firmware to match the mainboard. Fortunately it's not difficult: ua-cam.com/video/lHLMkjnuJyU/v-deo.html
On your auto bed leveling using a bl touch you have an X test pattern that you use to adjust the z-offset. Can you post a link to that pattern, please?
it wont let me compile it says "fastio_168.h: no such file or directory" edit: so i followed along for the rest of the video just so i could see where all the lines that needed to be changed are. and nothing matched the lines in this video. im using the newest version so i expected things to be different but nothing matched up. does anyone know of an updated tutorial?
Thanks for the informative video. I installed BLtouch and using the default configuration, I am not able to get that configuration to work. Low on the left and high on the right and cannot successfully lay down a first layer. I'm following your instructions, but unfortunately am receiving the following issue when compiling. Did I miss a step? Appreciate your guidance. Cheers! In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:26:0, from sketch\Marlin.h:36, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:247: pins_I3_PLUS.h:46:33: error: pasting "/* PA1 / AD1*/" and "_RPORT" does not give a valid preprocessing token #define Z_MIN_PIN 23 // PA1 / AD1 ^
Figured it out. The pre-processor is throwing errors for comments that are in-line. forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=542083.0. Now I have a segmentation dump: sketch\ADVcallback.h: In member function 'clone': sketch\ADVcallback.h:60:71: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault Self* clone() const override { return new Self(object_, method_); }
I actually ended up using Visual Studio and platformio.ini instead which worked flawlessly. It looks like after this mod the, Z UI option on controls no longer works and needs to be remapped, Z* works. Its probably an easy change. Another tip for those who are lazy like me :), when converting to use BLTouch as a Z-Stop, it's easier to use the z-min switch wire connector on the left side instead of opening the case and moving connectors around. I'm no expert but I don't believe having the other wires connected to Zprobe and unused should be OK. If Z-Stop does not work when testing, swap the pins as mentioned in this great video. Finally, has anyone confirmed that the bed leveling algorithm actually works and what range can it correct. When I started the results of leveling showed the left side of my bed was negative(low) and the right positive(high). No matter what I did after ensuring my x axis was parallel to the bed was never able to get a good first layer. The left side first layer was smashed into the bed and the right side layer printed too high and never put down a first layer? Almost appears that the algorithm swapped the correction for left and right or I have something swapped?? Thanks again for a great video!!
There was discussion of bug in the advi3pp version. Using the bed visualiser Octoprin plugin, I probe the bed and then adjust the level to get the graphic flat. A good way of verifying the process.
@@TeachingTech Will do. Thankd. There's an issue using M600 with ADVi3++ 3.0.2. After extruding the new filament it goes straight to print without the option on the lcd whether to extrude more plastic or to resume print.
FYI for anyone watching this and trying to configure PROBE BOUNDARIES in Marling 2.0.X, those settings now moved to the CONFIGURATION_ADV.H file:
Also just set your X / Y offset values for the edges, no need define the coordinate (my example is X-42 & Y-16)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 42
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 42
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 20
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 20
now called PROBING_MARGIN
@@Paint0nBrush yep, now you want to edit CONFIGURATION_ADV.H uncomment and edit the following: (values are based on my offset of -42 and -16 which i made 20)
#define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT 42
#define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT 42
#define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT 20
#define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK 20
Thanks for this!
Configuration.h
1. #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 20, 50 } //Z was 7
2. #define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 100 // was commented and 200
3. #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 10000 //was 8000
4. #define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2) //was FAST/3
5. #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (20*60) //was (4*60)
(I am the developer of ADVi3++). Thanks for your work and your videos. For information, I am considering integrating these changes in the next version of ADVi3++ (version 4.0). I will also add a screen to let users set the probing position and probing area on the LCD panel (instead of require them to compile their own version). I will add another screen to help them find the right Z height. As you have done, I will definitely remove the Z endstop and replace it by the BLTouch. I have not done this previously because I was not sure the BLTouch is reliable enough. But it is. There are also lots of other improvements in the pipeline (as voted by the sponsors of the ADVi3++ project). In a second time (i.e. in a few months), I am also considering supporting other probes, the Mark II version of the i3 Plus and also the Duplicator 9 printers that are apparently close to the i3 plus hardware.
Hi Sebastien, I'm a big fan of your work. I'm surrounded by printers but the CCT is one of the best to use thanks to your updated touch screen UI. I look forward to the future updates on what is already a quality package.
Thanks guys for all your hard work!
I wish one day you would make this for the ender-3
Hi Sebastien, would ADVVi3++ work on Anycubic's Mega Pro?
The specs of Wanhao i3 plus looks very similar & I'd love to give it a try.
Cheers!
@@OzventureTime i don’t know this printer so no idea
Just tried this on my Ender 3. Only updated the Marlin code, and saw a huge difference. Went from 2:52 down to 1:29 (5x5 grid). Thank you so much for this
Thanks again Michael, it was not without a few issues but now it works brilliantly, every time it starts printing I thank you silently.
Really glad to hear it is working so well.
This is a great guide. I encourage everybody to brave the firmware! It was a bit of an adventure installing BLtouch on my CR-10 S5 and this video would have been a great resource. One thing to note for larger build plates is that you can alter the amount of points it probes. I have a 7x7 grid that hits about every 50mm (I don't have it in my start gcode). Marlin firmware is very friendly and has little blurbs that explain each option in the "configuration.h" file. Even if you don't flash, you can download and scroll through it to see what it has to offer.
I considered going 5x5 but in the end I'm too impatient.
Done on my i3 Mega-S, since the stock boundaries and probing speed weren't that good.
Now, it's way faster using a 2-pass probing (from 3:30 to about 2:05-2:10) and centered on the bed using a really larger area, with much more consistent and stable results. Thanks for this one ! :)
The only thing I won't do for now is using the BL-Touch as endstop. Maybe someday ...
Great guide. I have a camera boom that would collide with the default sensor mount. Never knew it was so easy to move the position of the sensor and probe area.
Glad it helped.
I have a self built 3D printer using skynet (aka Marlin), because I am still using a controller board from an Anet A8. Oddly enough most of the settings that you have used here are what the defaults are in my firmware. The only thing I change manually now is the Z probe offset "Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER", if I make changes to my printer. This usually occurs if I am changing to a new nozzle type or have made a tweak to the probe bracket. You have to change the offset using some method and this can be done via a terminal as well, or there is a setting in menus as well. I just prefer changing the firmware but all methods are valid.
I've been having issues with 3d printed mounts myself. There is a good amount of heat near my mount so I'm changing mine to an aluminum one to stop if from flexing when I'm printing ABS or similar higher temp filaments. Good tutorial though, I encourage people to test out many of the settings in Marlin. Learn what the settings are though, poking around without a clue can have some undesirable effects =P
Great comment. People don't realise that if you make an error in Marlin, you can undo and reflash. It's definitely an educational experience to explore and tinker.
I saw the previous video you did and I had to wonder why they slowed down the probing so very much. I knew they had modified the firmware and I am glad that you showed the "fix" though this is more of an adjustment of values. The comments in the code are a great start as well, if there is something that you don't understand, just ask the community or just carefully observe the results of the changes and iterate through different values until you understand what value does what.
As ever, you are very clear and informative. Not only that, but the efforts and trial & error to find good values is so useful and time-saving. I got a little lost for parts 2 & 3, but I wasn't so interested in that part. The speedup section was great. Keep up the good work!
To print a test grid you can use:
G26 C P1 T3.0 B 48 H 200 R
(I put this in the terminal on octoprint)
Another great tutorial Michael, well done. The idea of getting the probe as close as possible to the nozzle is a good one as I have had the real issue of the X carriage rods being slightly out of perpendicular to the bed at one end, causing the error to be magnified in the BLtouch probing at that end resulting in less than stellar results in bed adhesion. I have mentioned this to the developer and was the one who left the comment that you alluded to in your video (my comment to the developer can be seen on the developers site around 5:42 in your video). I can attest to the fact that it was certainly real for me and after adjusting the Z plane to be equal along its length in relation to the bed, my 'problem' dissappeared. My point being that getting the nozzle and the probe as close as possible must lessen the chance of any error in alignment of the X carriage rods (Z plane perpendicular to the bed) manifesting itself.
I also really like your speed increase as that was a bit of a bug bear for me. As long as the accuracy is not lost of course, and from your testing it would appear not.
Wonder if it's worth mentioning that if anyone who does your changes but then opts for a later version of the Andrivet software down the track (as it's still in development) will/may have to reinstate those changes to avoid any issues especially considering that there were changes made in the hardware wiring. I'm sure that will be obvious to most but may not be for some. Just a thought.
Once again, well described and useful content. Cheers.
Hi Daryl, thanks for taking the time for posting such as thorough comment. I'm glad you got on top of your issues. Mine seems to work quite well, I'm pleased with it. It's a good point you make in regaeds to updating configuration.h in future. There was a comment in the docs for ADVi3pp that mentioned still using the z endstop 'for now', hopefully these types of changes will be included in future releases.
Adding these changes may need to be in a fork of ADV3++ unless the developer adopts them.
the Z feedrate was the best change out of all of them, thanks. I saw a guy who had his thing going fast in another youtube vid but couldn't figure out how he did it
You should increase the font size or with your editing software zoom the video a bit more on the text, it’s a bit hard to read even at 1080 on my desktop monitor but you talking through does help a lot
Good call I will implement this in. Hopefully I can do it in the screencasting software to save editing time.
If I’m not mistaken you can zoom somehow in the Arduino IDE then you don’t have to worry about messing with your recording software or post processing
Jimmy Scott Absolutely, but we don’t want to make the poor guy remake the video. I know I can’t be choosy when it comes to quality FREE help
@@TeachingTech Just hold the control key down and zoom in with the mouse for Arduino IDE.
I just finished the old one now I’ll have to build another mount and do a bit more wiring to it. Brilliant!!! 😊
Sorry to add more steps but hopefully yo agree it is worth it.
Is there any other discussion with Sebastien about the repositioning of the probe, I’m going to do it anyway and will just document the changes so it will be easier to do for any ADVi3 further versions if they don’t include the mod. I have a Flexion too and did not need the modified mount, I’ve got to make the standard one 🤔 I did find the arduino text a little hard to read as well 😕 just a little bigger would be good... Thanks!
I had to use the 2mm mount for the Flexion Extruder, I have done phase 1 and 2 but not phase 3... Works a heap better now, thanks...
Thank you for the hard work Michael. I tried it today with my Ender 3 and 1.1.9 Marlin. The only thing I did wrong, was not setting Marlin up for the Ender 3 first. there are files that are needed other than the config files you created. The IDE let me know pretty quick that something was missing. I corrected that and entered my offsets for the extruder and it worked like a champ. A little more tweaking and I will be good to go. Easy upgrade for such a beneficial tool. Thanks again and best regards.
[][][]Steve
Hi Steve, where you found ADVi3++ Firmware with Marlin 1.1.9 for Ender 3?
Thanks
Thanks for the detailed vid, it helped me set up my 3D touch clone on my generic seld build printer. Ive got mine mounted on the back of the e3d hotend head I have with 0mm offset on the X axis and 20mm to the rear of the nozzle on the y axis. My printer is capable of 300mm travel x, y and z so with a 230mm build plate fitted the head can travel outside the build surface area therefore my probing rectangle extends all the way to 5mm from each edge. I did all the speed changes too and now it works like a dream and really quick too. I plugged it into z min from the start, it made no sense to have a seperate method for z homing. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for a great detailed guide! It takes the mystery out of all those configuration options to add in the sensor.
Thanks for the effort. I had everything set up, but benefited from the speed of the leveling.
Excellent Michael, I will be trying this out very shortly.
Hopefully it will help fix your issue.
I did a modified version of this for the Tevo Tornado Gold and it worked amazingly! Thank yo so much for the great content!!!
Wow, like your tests
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Thinking of mounting a BL touch on a Ender 3
Hi Asger, I'm thinking about doing that too. If I do, there will be a video.
Looking forward to that one too :)
Funny, I have a new stock basic Ender 3, bought in June 2020, and with the removable stock built plate, I never have to level my bed. Prints stick perfectly and pop right off easily. It really is no hassle compared to my old Prusa clone with its dual Z axis, blue tape, glue sticks and inductive Z probe.
For anyone doing this for their Ender 3 using Marlin 2.0.x firmware, BLTOUCH_DELAY default is 500 and cant go below 200. He said the lowest for his was 75 and his max was 275. He set it to 100. We cannot set ours to 100, but since our lowest is 200, then we can set ours to around 225-250 although 275-300 is also good. His value was 26.6% of his max value. With Marlinx-2.0.x 26.6% of our max value of 500 is 133 and thats below 200.. So im guessing 200 is fast enough but 225 should be ok. If you try to compile below 200 the devs through in a message at compile time that values below 200 are dangerous for the printer. So you cant choose below 200 or else the compiler will error.
Definitely buying it for my cr10 v2
The BLtouch is a great little piece of hardware, unfortunately in a good portion of the community it has been regarded as too slow, my wanhao duplicator i3 plus is in bits atm (was just sticking a titan aero to it) but I thought I'd give myself a long term project and make myself learn fusion a bit more (large(r) scale 3d printer) + need to check if/how I can change main board but keeping the touch screen, gives me something to do after all.
Great speedup improvement thanks - things a little different in 1.1.9 but I got there
I've noticed that too ... saw some differences and am wondering what changes you made. Doing the last part (because I do use a glass top on my print bed) I am comparing my firmware to what I see above and at 11:18 or so I can see #ifdef ADV13PP_BLTOUCH above the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING. And then again at 11:35 I see the same thing right above the change he is outlining. My firmware does not list this, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't needed. Thanks!
Hi Michael, I finally found time to install this upgrade and it works perfectly. Thank you for all your hard work. I left you a tip in thingiverse.
Thanks Jim, that was generous. I love reading that my guides have worked well for people.
Thank you very much for your great BLTouch and vanilla Marlin video series. They are well done and very helpful. Please increase the zoom or Arduino IDE font size, it is sometimes hard to read.
Thanks for the feedback. In newer videos I have it set to 200%.
Hi Michael, Great video mate. I've gone ahead and done the mod with your front mounted BLTouch mount. while I'm having consistently perfect first layers the probe is nearly parallel to the bed with the nozzle. I'm using the Flexion extruder with a Ciii Cooler (practically the same setup as yours) the only difference is mine is the Monoprice Maker Select. So i'm not sure if there were any differences with the X carriage.
I may design a slightly thinner BLTouch front mount to give myself peace of mind. Nothing but praise for your work you do for us. Just some feedback from someone who has done your mod. Take care
Hi Craig, thanks for watching and for feeding back. On the Thingiverse link there should be multiple versions to try to move the probe higher or lower, are you already using the thinnest one?
Thanks Michael. Terrific content as usual. Excellent coverage and explanation. Will be trying this myself soon. Cheers
I'm over it. I've spent a few days trying to get my bl touch clone working. I've dont the bootloader, firmware upgrades etc.
I've tried everything....marlin....th3d etc.
watched all the videos, confused myself with different versions not knowing what is what.
the bl touch works mechanically, but that's about it. prolly about 5mm off bed surface when printing.
going to take it off soon and work out what I need to do to deactivate it and go back to manually levelling bed.
it's obvious I'm a noob, but so many videos with so many different ways to config etc....
Hi Michael, yet another fantastic guide, thank you so much. Got another question if you don't mind. At 9.35 I see you also have Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER set to -1.54, is this to compensate for your BL Touch being a little too high? The bottom of the white case on my BL Touch is currently mounted and is 10mm higher than the nozzle tip. Do I need to shim the BLT so that it is lower (what distance should I aim for)? Forgot to mention, this is on my CR10-S4.
That -1.54is what was set up by the developer of that version of the firmware: advi3++. On the Tornado I left it at zero. I think 8 to 8.5 mm is a good height from the tip of the nozzle to the BLTouch body, not the moveable probe. Check out diagram under specifications half way down this page: www.antclabs.com/bltouch
Hi Michael, I like all of your tutorials, clear and informative, Are you going to test the new ADVi3++ Version 4, will you make a tutorial for that. If you can make a tutorial for Ender 3, will be great. Thanks.
Question on the Z-Probe offset setup; am i supposed to be doing an initial manual level before playing with the sensor offset?
I have a quick question on this: doing the last part (because I do use a glass top on my print bed) I am comparing my firmware to what I see above and at 11:18 or so I can see #ifdef ADV13PP_BLTOUCH above the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING. And then again at 11:35 I see the same thing right above the change you are outlining. My firmware does not list this, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't needed. Thanks!
Micheal - Firstly i'd just like to say how excellent your tutorials are, I watch them all (several times over for reference too). Am I being dumb, but I think I am either missing something or have had a total mind block!....How do I connect to my Ender 3 Pro now that I have the boot loader installed along with a Raspberry Pi with TH3D Firmware on it. Basically I need to refresh the firmware to have it set up with the BL Touch changes you detailed here.. Thanks so much in advance, as I am really stuck!!!
Hello! I've got a strange issue, maybe you're familiar with this...
The repeatability test gives range ~ 0.018. I've set Bilinear, 5x5 in Marlin.
While printing it gives the same "hills". I've noticed it by printing several parts (one after each other) and then a bed grid to see where are the issues.
So the "hills" are exactly in the same spots as I've got on model printing. There I've got a very very thing skirt with a zero zone where plastic smoothly "dissapears".
Then I've uncommented EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID and ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION. Repeated the grid - no difference.
The difference in zones is so noticeable that in some places a filament path just rips off the bed while on others it "dissapears".
I'm using a good hair spray for adhesion. It couldn't give that differences (if it's in this topic at all), just spraying (no wet brushing).
I can show the photographs if it will help.
What it can be?
_
P.S. It's Tevo Flash, BLTouch is in the center, on the back from nozzle.
Hey man great videos I always watch them. I have a cr10 s5 with bltouch running marlin it works great but it seem like when I print my left side of bed is lower than the right side bltouch is supposed to correct that but seem like it doesn't some prints don't get close enough on the left side but the right side is always perfect I've tried manually leveling the left side but doesn't seem to help. Any clue as to why this is happening?
can you please do a full video on how to use it?
I just ordered on but still have no idea how it works, Do I still have to move the bed leveling wheels?
I dont get how it works and no videos explain this.
Great info, but you never showed the speed changes in action. Would have been nice to see a before and after.
I hooked up a BL touch to my CR-10 using a pin 27 board. Now my display is dead and I can't connect to it with octopi. I put everything back to stock and still does same thing. Did I somehow fry my motherboard? I triple checked the wiring before I turned it on to make sure I didn't let the magic smoke out. No smoke.
thanks brother my BLT is flying now :)
Hi TT, I am trying to set an skr 1.4 Turbo up with a Bltouch for Z probing and bed levelling but using the onboard Bltouch connector is proving to be a non starter, I am told by others to use the Z stop socket for the Bltouch black and white wires but i dont know how to setup in the Marlin 2 firmware could you help please ?
Would have been nice to have text overlay or a zoom in of the settings as you do on other vids. Or pin the changes in the comments? Thanks.
This is an older video and yes I've fixed that in newer ones. Sorry this one is harder to read.
@@TeachingTech I was on mobile. It's legible on PC. Sorry for the tone. I've been bouncing around about 6 videos trying to config Marlin 119-bugfix for stock LCD, MKS Gen L, TMC2130 sensorless homing w/ SPI, and BL Touch. Seems I can get something from each, but not sure I've got it together yet.
Wonderful lessons you give, thank you, thank you.. my question is that, is there a way to set the BLTouch in Marlin to be able to (after following this video) to understand to set the mesh to understand that 'for this print' I am at .2 level or 0.16, 0.12 etc. instead of leveling at the standard .2 height that was set for the first time. or a way that you know to gcode on ender 3 pro to set the Z babystepping for a different layer print? I hope I am asking this right.... i understand this is a minor difference in first layer height, but it would still affect it(squishing, etc.). or am I stuck in manually re-meshing and re-babystepping for different layer height prints everytime....
Even with a BLT the bed still has to have been levelled to the nozzle in the 4 corners, No one shows that process
Yeah, I was wondering about that, can someone tell me how respectively when to do that ?
You have to chose level bed corners after homing but before mesh bed leveling and adjust the bed height on all four corners with the paper method.
Man you saved my a**. Was stuck for 2 days installing my bltouch and was wondering why it wasn't accurate at all.... This info made it work!
@@toro3233 Ppl think the BLT is the be all and end all, when it's only there to assist you ,
Another awesome video, I can't wait to try this upgrade. How well does the ciii cooler work? I have already printed it but I'm afraid to install it because I put a upgraded cooler with a 50mm fan on my Ender 3 and I had to turn the fan down to 25% to get any decent layer adhesion. If you could let me know how it's working for you so I can decide which mount to use. Thanks Michael.
Hi Jim, Ciii cooler seems to work well. Haven't printed anything to really test it out but I can feel air from all sides on my finger when placed underneath. I run 60% speed compared to 100% for standard fan, as you say it's much more powerful. The side mount will actually fit with the Ciii cooler too. Maybe try upping yout extruder temp by 5 degrees if layer adhesion is still an issue?
Michael I was wondering last night if the sensor has to be on the left side? Would there be any advantage on mounting it on the stepper side, less need to alter the quadrant it works in? just curious.
You can put it wherever you like, as long as you update the offset from the nozzle and the probing area. The closer to the nozzle the better, hence why I made the front mount version.
nah too hard for an old man like me will keep working through your great videos.
Thanks for the video Michael, I did this mod using the other tutorial but always wanted to use the TH3D firmware so this def helped. Im having an issue I wonder if anyone else is having. I can't seem to do anything once the print starts. The screen freezes and the printer bugs out or stops when ever I try to do anything via the click wheel. Anyone else experiencing this?
Hi Michael I have been wondering if my compensation is actually working at all. I have noticed at the 5.15 min mark where you show your gcode there is no mention of a M420 S1 to re-enable the compensation if you have a G28 and a G29 . I am just wondering as it mentions it on the BLTouch site at the bottom of the page. andrivet.github.io/ADVi3pp-User-Manual/03-BLTouch.html If this is the case where should the M420 S1 be inserted? After the G28 but before the G29 or elsewhere, or does it not matter? Many thanks for these great videos.
Hi Ross, my understanding is with Marlin that the G29 values are retained if used at the start of print. If you want to save time, you can just use G28 (which discards the saved mesh unless you change a firmware setting) and retrieve a previous mesh with M420. The newer versions of ADVi3pp may have changed this. To see if it is working, put your finger on the z coupler at the start of a print to see if it is turning very slightly.
@@TeachingTech Hi Michael thanks for the reply, I have thought about the finger on the Z coupler as well but havent tried it yet, some say use the M420 s1 instead of G29? who knows worth a try though, I am only curious because I have used your setup from this video stages 1&2 but not 3 as I dont intend to change surfaces. Great stuff though thanks for the efforts you take.
Holy Cow, Micheal. That was an awesome tutorial on the BL Touch. The auto leveling was certainly time consuming and I was getting very frustrated as a manual level would get the first layer perfect then I would auto level and everything would go out of wack again. High on the right and low on the left.
I ended up removing G29 from the start script and not use the BL Touch.
Will print your center mount and calibrate the firmware and hopefully I will be able to start using the BL Touch again.
Thanks for all the hard work you have put into knocking this one out. Cheers :)
Thanks Morty for watching and for your feedback. Fingers crossed your experience improves, post here how you go.
Hi Micheal. I printed out and fitted the center mount but it appears too low when using the gauge that I printed for the adjustable mount. I am running a flexion extruder and it looks to be about 1mm lower than it should be. Any tips on adjusting. Cheers. :)
I've just updated the Thingiverse link with some variations.
Thanks for all you do Micheal. I printed out both variations and the 1mm was the perfect fit. :)
hey i did the first part of ur adjustment with it working fine but i could not get the bltouch to act like a zstop. it would just keep going down when i tried to auto home.i know that im missing a setting,can u please help
Love your videos! Have you ever put the BL touch on an cr10s? I am looking to do this and it will be my first time. All I ever find is the CR10s pro which is different. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks keep up with the cool videos!
I really want to try this. But I have the older model Cocoon Create V2 (The black one with the controller on the side). Is it doable following this method? I've been told I will need to use the TH3D firmware instead. I'm new to this, so a big learning curve for me.
Just to be clear and I dont end making a disaster =P You just disconnect the Z endstop switch and put in place the BLtouch change the code and that it? That means if I disconnect my switch and change the code will work for my CR-10 (I have the BLtouch and my endstop connected in the same place) I really will love to be able to change surfaces w/o re-level the endstop switch.
That is correct. The BLTouch replaces the old end stop switch. You might find my recent video on fitting a BLTouch to an Ender 3 much closer to what you need. Either way, live the nozzle high before homing for the first time and trigger the probe with your hand. If it doesn't stop trying to home, reverse the black and white wires from the bltouch to the mainboard.
Thanks for answer, by the way your videos are by far the most educational ones I found so far, thx for that. Your are making a really good job.
My BLtouch now its the Z endstop the switch its unplugged thx a lot.
Thanks for watching and for the compliments.
I am getting offset of only 0.92 mm .Is it ok?
Thanks Michael!!! My BL Touch arrived today, and I'm printing your mount. Is there any chance that you could share your compiled changes for someone who's not the best in Arduino?
What can be the problem if you still don't get your bed leveled with bl touch I just can't get it straight anymore, no matter whether with manual bed leveling or with the bl touch what can be the problem?
I have some issues, I can't get a symmetrical bed probing mesh. My BLTouch is left/forward to my nozzle (X=-42 & Y=-5), so I already set the offset for my BLTouch (#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -42 &
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5), so the center of the bed is really the center for printing
- I tried setting the home offsets as someone suggested, but then my prints are no longer in the center then
- I set the bed level positions to :
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 148
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 185
But this still gives me a non symmetrical bed leveling.
All help is very much appreciated.
Thanks Michael for your many appreciated videos, it really helped me to like 3D printing (and fiddling with it)
Anyone know how applicable these settings are modern Marlin, or is this more specific for ADVi3++?
Do you think you could follow the same steps on the Ender-3?
Absolutely. Just have to measure the X and y offsets from the nozzle and enter like I did here. That and calculating the probing grid boundaries like in the animations.
Oh and I have a video coming on it to walk through.
Oh yes! I recently did the Marlin version on my Ender 3 and now have ABL with BLTouch, but have lost SD access due to Sanguino memory limitations....Will that be the case with ADV as well?
tremendous video. but i cant follow the spoken-screen shot details.
Any hope of you posting s simple test file with the actual file names and parameters to change. ? You dif a lot of work but i cant get the real details from the video.
In newer videos I zoom in to help with this. I provide the source files and pre-compiled hex files for my patrons.
I've been thinking about the lack of symetrical leveling. I was looking in the config files and figured that I would open up the X axis to 251 from 230 on an Ender 3. The X axis travels that far without hitting anything and puts the BLTouch at the right hand edge of the bed. I'm just not sure if this will cause any other issues? I can't imagine it would. Slicers are still configured with the correct bed size and as long as origin is 0,0,0 it should be ok? Would love you hear your feedback
Does anyone know if the BLTouch probing speed increases can be done on Marlin 2.0, Specifically with the TH3D ezboard lite 1.2?
Thank you for a very detailed and useful video. I followed it to a tee and it has worked flawlessly, I'm now consistently getting perfect first layers every time. Out of curiosity what is the remaining g code for at 5:24?
The gcode makes an 'intro line'. It just extrudes a few cm of plastic to prime the nozzle. Probably not necessary with skirt turned on.
just wondering if I fit a BL Touch on an Ender 3, should I just wind the standard bed level screws down, or just leave them where they are. I ask this as my beg is warped and my glass is also high now where the warp is. so if this doesn't work then the next option is a new build plate.
What I did was get a level from my toolbox, and make sure that the four outside edges were level, then do the old paper leveling trick to make sure every point was even.
Michael thanks for the tutorials, I have the BL touch installed and behaving but a question. I have used the G29 gcode and it worked fine except it was a bit cut throat in that I wasnt able to clear away the initial purge of filament before it started, a minor point, So i have tried the G420 [?] and that was fine too. My question is with the G420 S1 setting, that uses the stored data of the last levelling so if I need to or decide to do another level check with the BL touch does that,once i have ticked it, update and store those new settings as the default? I assume so. Thanks for the great videos are you a teacher in the real world?
Just to clarify it's M420 S1. If you run the levelling from the touch screen, as far as I know it is stored automatically at the end. Thanks for the feedback, yes I am. More info about me in my channel trailer.
thanks for the info cheers
Great guide Michael! Phase three would be definitely the most useful feature for me, unfortunately my I3M has two Z end stop switches and I don't really know how to do wiring to connect the Bltouch. Would you have any solution ? Thanks
Is the max_feedrate that you changed to 20 in config.h the same as the Feddrate adjustment on the LCD in Marlin 3.0.2?
I believe so yes.
Why does the nozzle have to be within the boundries of the bed when leveling? It plays no part in the leveling process so I don't understand.
I'd like to have the BLT move to within 20mm of all four edges of my print bed in order to get an accurate level map.
The BLT mount I made puts the BLT in front of the nozzle and it is perfectly in-line with the nozzle in the X position and is -37mm in front of the nozzle, so the alignment is X=0, Y=-37.
What am I doing wrong with my BLTouch on my CR10 Max?
I am having some issues getting that first layer to lay down right even after doing some manual bed leveling and adjusting the Z offset.
Any suggestions would be great.
How would you make these changes on the sir v1.3 board
How can I adjust the offset if I'm using the mks board and don't have the screen?
michael did you update the firmware before you did these mods? Are you still on version 2.5.1 or whatever it was? I cant update to 3.0.2 on the lcd as it is actually 3.0.1, so issues
Original firmware video was version 2.5.something. Both bltouch videos were done on 3.0.2. I suggest trying the method with Arduino like the first part of this video. Arduino will give you more feedback on issues.
It will say 3.0.1 instead of 3.0.2, don't worry, just a typo from developer, no impact.
There is a sanity check that won't let you build the firmware if BLTOUCH_DELAY is less than 200 now. Is there a way around that?
Thanks for the great guide! I just tried and works!
The only strange thing is every time it fails the first probe, I relaunch the print and the probe it´s fine and looks working.
Any idea?
Thanks!
Very strange. It should be the same each time. There is a setting for safe probing height, can't remember the exact name sorry, but it's covered in the video. You can increase it to see if that helps.
@@TeachingTech thanks!!! I'll try!
@@TeachingTech now everything looks working, no errors, printer squared, right sensor distance, but it doesn´t compensate. Any idea?
Thanks again!
Any chance of an update for current versions of Advi3++ ? I'm sure a lot has changed in the two and a half years since this video was posted.
Ender 3 and bltouch with TH3d firmware and octoprint octolapse and I have a problem with fixing the position of zero by octolaps (error postioning) I can not deal with it, another problem Octoprint and built-in slicer unwilling to start printing (warming up, home and nothing ) Cura and SD card (G29) printer prints normally
Is there any update for this process?
Hey Michael followed your video to install my bltouch but my first layers don't seem to be affected, are you able to share your compiled firmware from this video so I can confirm I didn't miss a step. (I've got the starting g gcode that does the leveling but it doesn't seem to use the leveling grid data if the plate isn't perfectly level)
That is strange. The firmware developer is aware of this video, you are probably best contacting him. I have previously posted the compiled firmware on my Patreon.
Can you make vid how to use Unified Bed Leveling in marlin???
Only if the need arises, so it's a maybe..
Hi Michael, I've just finished implementing your mod and opted for the front mount. Just thought I'd raise a 'possible' issue before too many go down that path and potentially run into the same problem I, and at least one other (Morty61) who commented here, had.
The front mount for me and the OP placed the BLTouch a little low (about 2mm for me) in relation to the nozzle and consequently won't allow you to adjust for the 8.3-8.5mm required gap from the device to the bed. There's no possibility to raise it any higher.
I'm assuming (never a good thing I know :-)) that because you've replaced your extruder with an after market one the distances are just that little bit different although I've just noticed that Morty61 also has your Flexion Extruder as well?!
Anyway, I have modified your mount to work with my setup so all good there but again, just thought I'd flag it early as I'm sure there will be quite a few who will want to get on board with this great implementation of the BLTouch.
Cheers
Hi Darryl, I've just added two variations to the design on Thingiverse with different offsets. There is also a link to the Onshape source file with instructions on how to edit the offset to whatever people need. Mine fits the original spacer block pretty well but I guess there is more variation in printers than expected. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Thanks Michael! Wow, you've gone above and beyond expectations with this. You certainly don't let the grass grow under your feet. It's this attention to detail and your willingness to respond quickly to posts that make all the difference. :-) Keep up the great work and content. Thanks again.
You're welcome Darryl. You've contributed greatly with your comments so I'm happy to help out.
hey mate, having a bit of trouble. I've been running the bltouch for a little while now using your videos as reference, it was set up as this video suggests with it replacing the z min. it was working awesome, but i changed my mount to your design in the center as the other mount was slowly warping,
before hand it was leveling perfectly but now after changing the firmware and mount it seems to always be high on the right front and low on the left front.
i have just run a test print with the glass sitting at a stupid angle. and its printing correctly, though when the glass is level it doesn't seem to get it right.
That is quite a strange situation. Some people have reported gremlins with the advi3pp version and BLTouch, so if you have eliminated play in the physical parts maybe head in that direction.
i'm currently running another test after rotating the right hand Y rod, incase thats bent, i've even removed my glass bed to eliminate that. i'm about to flash the firmware with a different scanning area to see if that helps.
Adjusting the range to 10mm from the front seems to mostly solved the issue. Still slightly low on the left side. But works.
Current version of ADVi3 DOES NOT COMPILE in Arduino IDE. Try it. But don't mention it to Dev or you'll get blocked from the Github when you report the issue.
Hi, I have just installed an BLTouch on my Ender 5. This machine is upgraded with the skr mini e3 1.2 board and the tft 35 from Bigtree tech.
The probe is 2.6 above the nozzle.
I have Marlin 2.0.6. I still have the original end stops installed and have taken off the min software end stop for z.
When I activate bed leveling (bilinear) it fails with an ‚Probe error‘. I have to restart the machine. If I hit deploy when I have z=0 the probe start to blink and it locks up, keeps blinking.
Since I still have the mechanical end stop on z I have the probe plugged in at servo and probe in the board.
Any ideas what is happening?
would the speedup settings still be viable for a bltouch v3.1 today?
Are you still using these settings or has anything been updated? Also will this work on an ender 3?
I still don't understand how it works, the sensor can touch the bed to determine where it is, but how does it turn the nobs for leveling?
Wtf ???
@@scottsound4711 I don’t understand how it works
I don't know if you figured it out or not but it doesn't level the bed it just probes the height and tells the software those data. So when printing, the z-axis moves up or down according to the stored values.
@@BlackWZRD thank you so much for the answer. I still had no idea how it worked.
Can a BLtouch take the place of z-stop switch or is this it an addition?
bltouch replaces the z-stop endstop
What are "FFF Settings"? I see you adding GCode to it but I have no idea where or what FFF Settings are. Is that a slicer? A part of Arduino? It just comes up on the screen out of nowhere
Nvm, found out it is a part of S3D Slicer
i uploaded the hex file and then uploaded marlin but my printer is stuck on the IIIP splash screen. what do i do?
If you have the same printer as the video you need to update the LCD firmware to match the mainboard. Fortunately it's not difficult: ua-cam.com/video/lHLMkjnuJyU/v-deo.html
how do you test print to see if its cetching or stuff before you print the actual project?
Previously I had the adjustable version from advi3pp, I took my offset frm that so for me it worked first go.
how did you make that thing that's hanging over your computer?
Are you talking about the RGB light? That video has been coming for a long time and us getting closer.
On your auto bed leveling using a bl touch you have an X test pattern that you use to adjust the z-offset. Can you post a link to that pattern, please?
After installing i did the Z-offset. So when I now print everytime..i only run 'bed levelling'? and start printing?
you have to edit your start gcode in your slicer to use it before printing
it wont let me compile it says "fastio_168.h: no such file or directory"
edit: so i followed along for the rest of the video just so i could see where all the lines that needed to be changed are. and nothing matched the lines in this video. im using the newest version so i expected things to be different but nothing matched up. does anyone know of an updated tutorial?
Thanks for the informative video. I installed BLtouch and using the default configuration, I am not able to get that configuration to work. Low on the left and high on the right and cannot successfully lay down a first layer. I'm following your instructions, but unfortunately am receiving the following issue when compiling. Did I miss a step? Appreciate your guidance. Cheers!
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:26:0,
from sketch\Marlin.h:36,
from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:247:
pins_I3_PLUS.h:46:33: error: pasting "/* PA1 / AD1*/" and "_RPORT" does not give a valid preprocessing token
#define Z_MIN_PIN 23 // PA1 / AD1
^
Figured it out. The pre-processor is throwing errors for comments that are in-line. forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=542083.0. Now I have a segmentation dump:
sketch\ADVcallback.h: In member function 'clone':
sketch\ADVcallback.h:60:71: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault
Self* clone() const override { return new Self(object_, method_); }
Congrats on figuring it out and thanks for posting your solution for future searchers.
I actually ended up using Visual Studio and platformio.ini instead which worked flawlessly.
It looks like after this mod the, Z UI option on controls no longer works and needs to be remapped, Z* works. Its probably an easy change.
Another tip for those who are lazy like me :), when converting to use BLTouch as a Z-Stop, it's easier to use the z-min switch wire connector on the left side instead of opening the case and moving connectors around. I'm no expert but I don't believe having the other wires connected to Zprobe and unused should be OK. If Z-Stop does not work when testing, swap the pins as mentioned in this great video.
Finally, has anyone confirmed that the bed leveling algorithm actually works and what range can it correct. When I started the results of leveling showed the left side of my bed was negative(low) and the right positive(high). No matter what I did after ensuring my x axis was parallel to the bed was never able to get a good first layer. The left side first layer was smashed into the bed and the right side layer printed too high and never put down a first layer? Almost appears that the algorithm swapped the correction for left and right or I have something swapped??
Thanks again for a great video!!
There was discussion of bug in the advi3pp version. Using the bed visualiser Octoprin plugin, I probe the bed and then adjust the level to get the graphic flat. A good way of verifying the process.
Can you please make a video on M600 gcode?
Looke it up and most likely will at some stage. My planned video list is very long so don't hold your breath..
@@TeachingTech Will do. Thankd. There's an issue using M600 with ADVi3++ 3.0.2. After extruding the new filament it goes straight to print without the option on the lcd whether to extrude more plastic or to resume print.
How to do it on Ender 3? Please help.