Outstanding video Bob, I really enjoyed how you detail the step by step method you used to laminate the pieces. Watching you build the boat is a great way to spend time relaxing. Thank you. Best wishes for improved health.
I have binge watched HOURS of your videos following your boat builds. Thank you for the content. Your knowledge and accuracy of your work is incredible
Thank goodness for plastic in this effort. While there are many areas that plastic use can be reduced, it should not be eliminated. And there are research efforts going on that take very specialized microorganisms that can digest plastics and return them to their original chemical (or other useful) components.
Great video Bob. Glad your health is getting better. The jig you made for getting the strips cut out was a cherry on top of this nice Sundae video. Take care and stay well.
I am always impressed by a nice lamination. This one, or I guess these, since there are two, are very nice, Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
This was a very interesting and educational video,I suppose that you could actually build a boat using otherwise wasted pieces of timber,brilliant.Thank you Roly 🇬🇧.
I'm always amazed at the lack of springback I can detect on laminated curved beams. I'm guessing that the more laminations you have, and perhaps the thinner the laminations, the less the springback.
Glad you're back up to snuff Bob. One question though: Why did you go with titebond instead of epoxy? I know type 3 has the longest open time but it's still only around 10-12 minutes. Maybe a bit more in a cooler environment. I would have been seriously stressed!
@@holmesanderson5067 Yeah, Bob has his own way of doing things but you can't argue with the results. The table saw technique was pretty scary though. I was surprised that he didn't use and mdf form too but the parts seem to the correct shape. As for Tightbond 3 you are spot on but I'm guessing he's using it because it's a dingy and won't be in the water all the time although if Steve is at anchor some place my guess is it will be in the water for days or weeks at a time. I'm wondering if he's going to glass it. If not I, like you, have concerns. I'd love for him to weigh in on this.
Hi Bob. Very interesting episode. I’m just wondering how you determined the thickness of the stem. How is it generally calculated whether sufficient thickness has been chosen or excessive / insufficient? where can i read about it? Thank you.
I had the same question but In an other (older video) he stated that some people use epoxy everywere. He has done some tests if i remember correctly, and he said that for the application that he will be using it, the woodglue will be suffisiant. In the end the whole boat will be coated with epoxy so that wont be much of a trouble.
@@sailingsomeday5975 If inner stem is emersed in salt water then you have other things to worry about..... xD Meaning, the inner stem isnt supposed to come in contact with salt water :P
Titebond III is not effected by UV light. Unprotected epoxy degrades in UV light. I epoxy is protected they will perform the same. Traditional epoxy should not be used with White Oak. One reason is its lack of dimensional stability. All wood reacts to changes in moisture content. It shrinks as it loses moisture and it swells as it gains moisture. Typically, the movement is much greater across the grain of the wood than it is parallel to the grain. This movement can result in warping, splitting, checking and other problems. Oak, especially white oak, is one of the more dimensionally unstable species of wood. It twists and bends as it tries to adjust to changes in its moisture level. For example, when its moisture content changes from 7% to 12%, a piece of white oak will swell about 50% more than a piece of Honduras mahogany under similar conditions. With this much movement, the stress on a glue line becomes enormous and can pull the joint apart. One could use a flexible epoxy adhesive, such as TotalBoat FlexEpox, or WEST SYSTEM G/flex to bond white oak. Titebond III plays well with white oak.
Far be it from me to suggest how to make your process better but I wondered if you could put the king “tails” of your clamors on the outside of the jig and the heads in the inner curve to keep it from getting so crowded? I feel like I’ll do it one day and mid way through the glue up realize there was a method to your madness and I’ll be scrambling to redo them. Is there a reason I’m not seeing?! Beautiful work and fantastic explanation sir.
Hey Bob, got a question for you? wouldn't it be easier to cut your rabbit prior to gluing those two pieces of the stem together. Just wondering since you have two pieces of wood that make up your stem ahead of time. BTW Hope all your health issues continues to get resolved there Bob.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Aha. I've experienced that. Nicely planed white oak can have a surface as smooth as plastic. When I've epoxied it, I would rough up the surface to give the epoxy something to grip on to. But for something that will take stress, it makes sense to use a different adhesive.
More laminations leads to less springback. The first lamination didn’t appear to springback at all. There are some rough formulas for calculating springback.
At 27:49 a template magically appeared. One might wonder the purpose of this video being many pieces of the puzzle are missing for the amateur. Perhaps if more minutes were spent on the missing steps and less minutes were spent on glue ups…
Hi Henry, a bandsaw leaves a rough surface that would then need to be surfaced on a planer. One would lose more material than a table saw and require more steps and time. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Outstanding video Bob, I really enjoyed how you detail the step by step method you used to laminate the pieces. Watching you build the boat is a great way to spend time relaxing. Thank you. Best wishes for improved health.
I have binge watched HOURS of your videos following your boat builds. Thank you for the content. Your knowledge and accuracy of your work is incredible
Glad you’re back at it, Bob, and feeling better.
I really like the false stem idea, especially for smaller boats. Wish you well with your health.
Vary happy to see you feeling better and back in the shop.
Been there. Back to work is great therapy.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great to have you back Bob. Keep healthy!
im just amazed over and over the quality of the wood that came off Steve's property for this project
Really nice gesture from you to build this boat for Steve. Need more people like yourself in this world
Another great video Bob. Sorry to hear you were not well. Nothing rejuvenates like a day in the shop.
I've never spent much time on any boat, but this build, Arabella, Tally Ho and SV Seeker are some of my favorite things to watch!
Welcome back, happy to see that you have fully recovered.
Thank goodness for plastic in this effort. While there are many areas that plastic use can be reduced, it should not be eliminated. And there are research efforts going on that take very specialized microorganisms that can digest plastics and return them to their original chemical (or other useful) components.
Bob, great to see you back again, all the best from the U.K.
Glad you're back and feeling better!
Beautiful, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Stay safe and well 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼from Victoria Australia 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Glad you're feeling better.
Super fantastic, Bob is back in the shop! Amazing to see a chunk of wood transformed that way into being a part of the boat.
Really beautiful work, Bob! The parts are looking great! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video Bob. Glad your health is getting better. The jig you made for getting the strips cut out was a cherry on top of this nice Sundae video. Take care and stay well.
I am always impressed by a nice lamination. This one, or I guess these, since there are two, are very nice, Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Hi Bob, I love that you also give a translation of measurements in the metric system, thanks an keep up the good work👍
Thanks!
What a great channel.
This was a very interesting and educational video,I suppose that you could actually build a boat using otherwise wasted pieces of timber,brilliant.Thank you Roly 🇬🇧.
I admire your shop! Thanks for sharing the techniques.
Another great video Bob. Thanks for sharing
Very informative video Bob. Interested to see how this build develops. Ian
Just picked up one of those small Delta brand jointers……..nice tool for small stuff
Thank you for sharing your process with us. Superb work.
I'm always amazed at the lack of springback I can detect on laminated curved beams. I'm guessing that the more laminations you have, and perhaps the thinner the laminations, the less the springback.
Welcome back!!
Amazing work as always, Bob!
Awesome! A pure joy to watch.
Thanks for another great video! I always look forward to the notifications for them.
thanks
Perfect lamination!!!! Is it not too big stem for that dingy?
It will be trimmed down as I fair the boat.
Desejo-lhe as melhoras, e tenha um bom dia. Abraço de Portugal.
Why wood glue and not an epoxy to glue the slats together?
I tried hot glue to hold the pads for my clamps . it seems to work well for keeping them in place
Glad you're back up to snuff Bob. One question though: Why did you go with titebond instead of epoxy? I know type 3 has the longest open time but it's still only around 10-12 minutes. Maybe a bit more in a cooler environment. I would have been seriously stressed!
@@marievictoire1939 Leo use a lot of epoxy with oak on Tally Ho.
I wonder the same thing. Oak and epoxy definitely can go hand in hand.
@@holmesanderson5067 Yeah, Bob has his own way of doing things but you can't argue with the results. The table saw technique was pretty scary though. I was surprised that he didn't use and mdf form too but the parts seem to the correct shape. As for Tightbond 3 you are spot on but I'm guessing he's using it because it's a dingy and won't be in the water all the time although if Steve is at anchor some place my guess is it will be in the water for days or weeks at a time. I'm wondering if he's going to glass it. If not I, like you, have concerns. I'd love for him to weigh in on this.
Titebond gives you much more working time than epoxy.
@@brutusbarnabus8098 That is completely dependent upon which type of epoxy you use. You can get working times up to an hour or more with epoxy.
Hi Bob. Very interesting episode. I’m just wondering how you determined the thickness of the stem. How is it generally calculated whether sufficient thickness has been chosen or excessive / insufficient? where can i read about it? Thank you.
Very insructive
Bob - great stuff - glad you feel better - why wood glue and not epoxy?
I had the same question but In an other (older video) he stated that some people use epoxy everywere. He has done some tests if i remember correctly, and he said that for the application that he will be using it, the woodglue will be suffisiant. In the end the whole boat will be coated with epoxy so that wont be much of a trouble.
I was going to ask the same question. Perhaps it's because of the health hazards associated with epoxy.
@@ralphgesler5110 so wood glue will stand up to salt water emersion? - Genuine question?
@@sailingsomeday5975 If inner stem is emersed in salt water then you have other things to worry about..... xD Meaning, the inner stem isnt supposed to come in contact with salt water :P
I’ve been told at WoodenBoat School that epoxy doesn’t adhere as strongly with oak. The high tannin content?
Did he finish that little sail boat? I was wanting to see it on the water.
Do you account for spring back? is it necessary?
Did you find any spring back caused by stretching the outer stem over the inner?
Very little
At 14:29 what is the glue lam life with titebond vs. epoxy?
Titebond III is not effected by UV light. Unprotected epoxy degrades in UV light. I epoxy is protected they will perform the same.
Traditional epoxy should not be used with White Oak. One reason is its lack of dimensional stability. All wood reacts to changes in moisture content. It shrinks as it loses moisture and it swells as it gains moisture. Typically, the movement is much greater across the grain of the wood than it is parallel to the grain. This movement can result in warping, splitting, checking and other problems. Oak, especially white oak, is one of the more dimensionally unstable species of wood. It twists and bends as it tries to adjust to changes in its moisture level. For example, when its moisture content changes from 7% to 12%, a piece of white oak will swell about 50% more than a piece of Honduras mahogany under similar conditions. With this much movement, the stress on a glue line becomes enormous and can pull the joint apart.
One could use a flexible epoxy adhesive, such as TotalBoat FlexEpox, or WEST SYSTEM G/flex to bond white oak.
Titebond III plays well with white oak.
Far be it from me to suggest how to make your process better but I wondered if you could put the king “tails” of your clamors on the outside of the jig and the heads in the inner curve to keep it from getting so crowded? I feel like I’ll do it one day and mid way through the glue up realize there was a method to your madness and I’ll be scrambling to redo them. Is there a reason I’m not seeing?! Beautiful work and fantastic explanation sir.
Hey Bob, got a question for you? wouldn't it be easier to cut your rabbit prior to gluing those two pieces of the stem together. Just wondering since you have two pieces of wood that make up your stem ahead of time. BTW Hope all your health issues continues to get resolved there Bob.
Why did you use Titebond and not epoxy?
I like that concave surface plane!
White Oak does not play well with epoxy.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Aha. I've experienced that. Nicely planed white oak can have a surface as smooth as plastic. When I've epoxied it, I would rough up the surface to give the epoxy something to grip on to. But for something that will take stress, it makes sense to use a different adhesive.
I have never had a problem with West System epoxy. @@TheArtofBoatBuilding
More laminations leads to less springback. The first lamination didn’t appear to springback at all. There are some rough formulas for calculating springback.
👍
And you were able to build the outer stem without the help of your friendly neighbor.😊
At 27:49 a template magically appeared.
One might wonder the purpose of this video being many pieces of the puzzle are missing for the amateur.
Perhaps if more minutes were spent on the missing steps and less minutes were spent on glue ups…
I glad you brought that to my attention. The template came for the lofting board at 3:15
why not use a bandsaw with a guide, as you lose a lot of wood with circular saw's wider kerf
Hi Henry, a bandsaw leaves a rough surface that would then need to be surfaced on a planer. One would lose more material than a table saw and require more steps and time.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding oh ok I see! thanks for the tip
I wish you had a young apprentice that could help you and learn from you.
We are all Bob's Apprentices simply by watching.