Strip Planking a Boat? Some Tips You'll Need! S3-E12
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Everything you need to know to get started strip planking your boat. In this episode of the Art of Boat Building, Boat Builder Bob Emser starts the process of strip planking the boat Victoria. Through the process Bob revels several tips on strip planking with cedar.This 9' sailing dinghy will be the tender for Arabella, Steve Denette's boat he is building on his UA-cam channel, Acorn to Arabella.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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Recommended Playlists
Building Victoria. Arabella's Tender
• Season 3 - Victoria
Carvel Planking Playlist:
• Carvel Planking
Haven 12 1/2 Playlist:
• Season 2 - Haven 12 1/2
Tool Making:
• Tool Making
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Steve is going to absolutely love this Dinghy sailor. Real craftsmanship right there my friend. It's amazing how easy you make this out to be Bob.
I am a professional wood worker, never built a boat but ofen though about it. Now I know that is as I imagine and I think I can build I nice one. Maybe one day....I just need tons of teak, ash and mohogany.😊 😊
You are a brave man doing that re-saw work by hand on those narrow planks. Very impressive and the outcome looks great!
Thank you! I wanted to kerf to be as small as possible so the small pull saw was perfect.
Thanks for watching.
Fantastic progress Bob. Watching your channel and Tally Ho is like watching a fine piece of floating furniture being created before your eyes. 🇨🇦
Awesome work, Bob! Always like seeing your process!
Coming along nicely
Really nice work, can't wait to see it all planked.
That is going to be one sweet looking dinghy. Thank you Bob for bringing us along and your support to Arabella. Have a great week ahead.
Exciting progress!
I know I said this last week when the transom and sternpost went in. But now it looks like a boat! Beautiful work Bob, Victoria is going to be a floating work of art!
Great progress. 👍
The plastic pin nailer is a great idea. I work in a cabinet shop and could think a few areas I could use it. Especially building jigs without worrying about destroying a bit or blade. Wonderful work Bob, can’t wait to see it out of the molds.
And also this video is AWESOME!!! I am so deeply impressed. Two comments worth! 💯💯❤️
I'm not a boat builder but I have been making things with wood and steel all my life, and it is a pleasure to watch you do what you do.
Very interesting indeed. Your thought process makes it easy for even a non-builder here to understand. Thanks for sharing.
Amazing work, Bob! It's looking beautiful! 😃
It's amazing how this wood looks!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yay, the strips are going on!!! Splitting the ends like you did, reminded me of Steve splitting the frames of Aribella. Ah yes, reminiscing on those episodes so long ago. As to the present, funny how drywall screws are so useful for other duty. Their name just doesn’t live up to their versatility.
Cheers, blessings, and well wishes.
Finally got to watch this. Great work!
Thank you for sharing your video. I rather enjoyed it. And you teach very well. God bless and goodnight
So much prep work and then suddenly in one video half a boat formed. Love the idea of the split to alter the properties of the timber at the end to get the curve formed you required so simple and effective.
Thanks Alan!
I keep thinking that Bob has only ever built one boat. One more than me. And that's saying A LOT!! And yet another masterpiece is arising. Research!! This is how you overcome obstacles. He out thinks it! Victoria is going to be absolutely beautiful. Steve is a very fortunate man.
Two, Dwayne. Don’t forget it was the little Tenderley dinghy that got him started…..that’s what has got me started on building one….I start tomorrow!
@@johnstride9642 The haven isn’t finished so , one boat. One dinghy that has been wet a few times, clear mark of a master boat builder.
One finished, two in process. Plus a lot of art sculptures that look a lot like boat-like structures. And he took two different plans and modified them to redesign a new set of plans for this boat. Making a half-model of it for a visual. He's going off of "half-assed" rough measurements to make it fit a main boat that was not yet built to get actual measurements from to design this boat to fit around hatches and masts and rest atop the cabin of the cruiser it will service. On top of all that, he is filming it and trying his best to explain it in an attempt to help viewers learn something about boat building.
And he is doing it for no compensation.
So, if this job does not inspire anyone, for one of many reasons, then they probably should find another channel to watch.
These sculptures I mentioned are all around the world, too.
@@thomasarussellsr you nailed it. Sculptures of boat like things. The issue is that those sculptures don’t have to float and keep the occupants from drowning. Bob is a good both as a craftsman and an artist, but three hulls does not make anyone an expert shipwright ,let alone pontificating so other may learn from that limited experience.
Excelent as aways Bob!
Great work Bob. It looks beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks!
Its becoming beautiful indeed!!
I really enjoyed the video this morning. Very real world approach. I spend a lot of time stopping the video to admire your shop absolutely beautiful.
Thanks Kevin!
Regarding plank/strip flexibility: I’ve read of (1.) halving the width and (2.) kerf-cutting perpendicular the length (one side or both), but the (3.) resawing longitudinally makes great sense! It is like the thin strip stem lamination.
Fabulous crafts manship
Thanks for the shout out Bob. I look forward to seeing your progress.
Really been enjoying your book.
Thanks for watching!
Great!
Thank you
making a strip canoe is on my project list love your tips.
She is starting to look real nice there Bob, you are doing first class work on her.
I didn't think I would like watching a dinghy being built. I build steel boats over 300 ft. long. I have to say, I am enjoying watching
you and learning along the way.
Great work Bob. Thanks for the high quality sharing! I have built 3 strip plank canoes (before Nick got going though...) I found that using full length tapered strips around the turn of the bilge works well to keep a smooth run of plank and minimises the effort in dealing with twist at the bow. The strips are tapered from full width to about 1/4 width at the stern and bow, likely less on a transom model. You still end up doing some fiddly fillers but only the last 4 or five strips as you approach the bottom centreline.
This is good advice, I agree.
Nice
It’s really getting a boat now.
I found the approach to the bow planking interesting and creative. I figure the short plank area (protected by the false stem) will be the most vulnerable if the tender is run up on a beach. Does the fiberglass supply enough strength so it doesn’t matter? Also looking forward to seeing what you do with the screw holes.
I love your workmanship. I would have been just put a 2 inch stem on it.
An adaptation for the stapler, presuming the thickness of the wood and length of the staples isn't a factor is to add a couple of layers of duct tape under the staple end of the stapler. That way when the staple goes in, it sits a bit proud and can easily be removed later using a popsicle stick. Damage to the wood is minimal.
With glue, I developed a technique of loading it into a syringe that makes for a nice neat, essy to apply bead.
It's getting there, she's going to be a good tender. 🙂👍
When I built a strip planked a 10" dingy yrs ago (K10 by Kullmann design) I used 10 mm thin pine strips, but I also routed matching bullnose/cove on the edges so that the strips fitted nicely into each other. I then faired the hull and laid another layer of 4mm marine ply (okoume) strips 45 degree diagonally from keel to sheer. The first layer of strips where fastened with small torx screws dipped in ski wax for easy removal (torx as these are 100% more easily removed vs Phillips), and for the ply I used cramps shot through pieces of thin plastic for easy removal and not to damage. The dingy was then faired smooth, covered with epoxy and fiber inside/out, and reinforced with seats aft and mid. It ended up being so light (I think only 35 kg) that I managed to hoist the tender on deck alone.
Thanks for your comment. I've had several viewers thinking that this will be a heavy boat. My hull thickness will be close to yours and finished with the same with glass cloth and epoxy. Being 9' but with the added bulkhead it should weigh about the same 35kg (77 lbs)
Thanks for sharing and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
I've seen, or heard of, putting a bit of veneer in a kerf like you made in the center strip. Seems like a good idea for something like this.
It does sound like a good idea. I'll have to give it a try in the future.
Hi. tip if you soak the planks that need bending you can soak them in house hold ammonia over night and they will become more pliable. I have read that the Chris Craft company did this.
Steam works better
Rich
Looks like those short 1/2” bow pieces will create a flat spot. Do you intend to address that with fairing compound?
I was wondering that. Once it's all faired in it might not be too bad but if it is then fairing compound prior to expoxy glass will sort it out.
You know whatever Bob does it won't be substandard.
I was thinking the same. But then I saw Bob clamp and pin the piece to the strip below. This would have taken on the shape and repeated on each additional strip. I would agree that the straightness would bend back, but would be a subtile change and even on both port/starboard sides.😊
I knew someone who had a kayak made from scratch and apparently 2 planks cracked like that used it multiple times and just one time a rock happened to bump into the crack both planks popped or snapped out though the fiberglass and caused a line inside to crack open too are you going to epoxy that crack on the plank to strengthen it??
I like that re-sawing trick to allow the strips to curve more easily. I suppose you could have done that for the other planks that meet the stem. Instead of making them less wide, make them less thick. (They could have been parts of full-length strips that were partially resawed, or maybe just half-thick strips for that section, covered by another layer of half-thick strips.)
EDIT: Now that I think about it, I think the reason for the half-width strips up front was not just because they have to bend toward the stem, but because they have to TWIST as well. So using thinner strips might not have allowed the strips to twist.
I actually thought you might consider steaming to allow the strips to twist. I think you could steam part of a strip, even while the other end is attached the mold, using a bag technique (like A2A with their covering plank ordeal).
titebond is an interesting choice! i get the epoxy and cloth over the hull, but will the inside be epoxied over as well to totally seal the wood and glue in?
Yes, fiberglass on the outside and inside. The hull will be completely sealed.
Titebond or yellow carpenter glue is the standard for all strip plank that receive an epoxy finish.
Thanks
Really enjoying your work, I love your positive “can do” relaxed approach and think you’ve got a good confident teaching style, thanks so much! Simon.
Hi Simon, Thank you so much for you positive comment and your support. It's with viewers like you that I can continue to produce quality videos. Your help is much appreciated.
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding keep up the good work! After selling my business I’ve taken a bit of time out to get an introduction to boatbuilding and restoration at the Falmouth Marine School in the UK, it’s fantastic to be using my hands to make things for the first time in 51 years. I’d love to have the confidence that you have. Thanks for the inspiration!
Hi Bob, I loved this episode. I am interested to know why you did not use your plastic brads instead of the screws and staples in some places. My first strip build I used steel staples and hated them passionately! The plastic brads seem like a perfect fix! Please explain.
I used the plastic brads at the bulkheads, transom, and stem as they stay in the boat. The other stations I put a temporary screw when needed. As I explained in the video using 3/8" planks the staples weren't long enough.
Thats for watching!
I am building a new tender for my yacht and I am using 4mm Gaboon ply to keep the weight down. I am interested to know if strip plank has the potential to be lighter ?.
Having built a couple of cedar strip canoes with thin strips it is interesting to see how Bob made the bow section strips fit the curve of the station. The canoes I built had a focus on being as light as possible, it would have been fun to use nice heavy stock like Bob has. I am guessing that the finished boat will be painted? There is no way Bob would leave those half-inch strips, and screw holes visible.
He'll remove the screws and it will be fiberglassed (and painted).
@@briansmith8967 But first, fairing compound will fill the screw holes and any gaps or irregularities in the planking soshe can glide through the water with as little drag as possible.
Never have enough clamps
Indeed. I even was bought 4 more this week!
That is ging to be beautiful! Im Just wondering, do the short planks between the bouw and frame 1 follow the shape of the boat, or are thy more straight?
They follow the shape of the boat. At 18:42 you can see the strip laying flat as I glue and nail (in the overhead shot) you can see the slight bent I put in to follow the curve of the plank below.
Does clamping to the plank below flatten its curve some? Or is it more rigid since it is twice as thick and anchored at another station? Does that still hold for successive short planks?
@@chriscooper1978 If you see the plans, between bow stem and station 2 there is almost no curve. So even there will appear some flattening it will be invisible after fairing. But other dingy has to afraid of collision with Victoria 🙂
How is the correct name of the "system" for the manufacture of frames (body) from plywood ???? No where to find study material
I just don’t know how to correctly calculate and make such frames for my needs (models)
Would steaming the planks have worked to get the necessary tight bend?
Steaming sounds simpler than it is. Many factors are at play. I'm not sure this 100+ year old cedar would give up much. The thinning of the planks and gluing is the strongest, simplest, without chance of spring back.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I have some experience steaming wood for a 100+ year old boat. However, in this case the 5mm thick American white oak strips were relatively new pieces of wood. I am sure the new Victoria will be a thing of beauty and a joy to sail.
Why did you not steam those strips to fit instead of resawing them?
Is there a reason you didn't steam the planks for those tricky curves at the bow? Just too much of a hassle to set up? Seems to me that would have been a lot stronger and you'd have less issues with fairing everything later. I'm sure it'll be strong enough with the fiberglass and epoxy, but the bow seems like one of the places you'd like as strong as possible.
Steaming sounds simpler than it is. Many factors are at play. I'm not sure this 100+ year old cedar would give up much. The thinning of the planks and gluing is the strongest, simplest, without chance of spring back. With multiple layers of fiberglass this is going to be a very strong dinghy.
Thanks for watching!
All of it matter!!
The art of Build boating
Boa noite podia-me dar a tabela das cavernas para um barco de 2.50 de cumprido, obrigado e boa noite.
I have been playing with the idea of making a high top roof for a van that looks like an upside down boat. From the outside it would look like I was transporting a boat on the top of my van.
I would only cut out the roof of the van in the middle where a kitchen would be. This would give me two large storage areas, (one front and one rear of the kitchen area between the van roof and the upside down boat). Possibly large enough to sleep in one of the areas. If someone looked in the van, they would not see me sleeping.
A Jon Boat would be simpler to build, but I don't know if cedar strip would look appropriate.
Sounds like a great idea. A Jon Boat design may suit your purpose better as it has a flat bottom. Also could easily be build with plywood construction.
Cheers,
Bob
Very nice video again, thank you very much. A little critique though: I didn‘t like introducing these short pieces up front. Will create a flat spot and a kink at the station where they start from. Why not splitting/resawing the strips for the last meter or so? Still would not be the very same as using the thick strips all the way through, but maybe better?
I like this. Do you have a plan for this boat?
Yes,
💙
Fantastic. How many strips will it take
Not sure. My guess is about 75-80. Stay tuned I'll let you know. I cut 100 just incase.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding fantastic 😊
Would not the plans have shown the line size of that mold , and the stem cap is it important that it be 2 inches in width as it is a filler plank sort of over the strips ?
Hi Andre,
The plans show that the stem be 1 1/2" to the outside of the planks. A 2" stem would have made the cut water of the stem to be more blunt.
I would have been tempted to rip just the last foot or so of the planks on the band saw, with the thinnest blade (so you don't lose too much material at the bow), instead of cutting them short. This would have given you the flexibility needed, but kept them fair. Not only between the bow and the last station, but there is going to be a hard corner at the last station heading aft as well since they aren't turning the corner. I know it will all work out, but I think it would save time on fairing and preserve the thickness of the planks.
Disclaimer: I don't think I know better than Bob, and although I have done a lot of woodworking, I have never built a wooden boat. Just a fan of the project with an idea.
I'm curious now about how this piece of art will be finished. It seems a shame to paint over all that beautiful old wood. Will we be able to see the beautiful woodwork once it is finished or will the fairing, glasswork, and paint cover it all up??
It will be painted per Steve Denette's request. The transom and trim will remain bright.
I’m wondering about those strips you put at the bow at the top, whether they’ve lost the natural curve they would have had they been laid along all the transoms. Or am I missing something?
Hi Wes,
It may not be easy to see in the video, however, the strips follow the shape of the boat. At 18:42 you can see the strip laying flat as I glue and nail (in the overhead shot) you can see the slight bent I put in to follow the curve of the plank below.
You'll have to trust my 45+ years as a sculpture experience that she will have a beautiful hull!
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Sorry Bob. I wasn’t doubting you. I love your work. I know the issues I’d have if I was doing it. I would probably soak them and try and twist the boards, but in this case they’re probably too old and dry, as you said.
Do you bevel the edges of the strips? I'm thinking about the 12 strips next to the sheer. Or are they cut square, and you'll fill in any gaps when fairing?
Watch Nick Sholte
All the planks are beveled at 15º. You can view the how and why in this video ua-cam.com/video/rWPgeCOjtuo/v-deo.html
Though I reference Nick Schade's book I am not building a smooth planked bright finished kayak. It the video you hear John Harris the naval architect for Chesapeake Light Craft explain how to plank the boat. I'm following his recommendations. Remember these planks are only a substructure for which to apply the fiberglass layers. Fairing compound will take care of the gaps and screw holes.
The final boat will have a painted hull.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Aha, I get it. So the beveling is so each strip brings the other one into the frame when you clamp it down. Makes sense. And it seems like there's not much gap to worry about since you're fairing and glassing anyway. Cool. Can't wait to see the finished hull!
What is the name of that book you showed in this episode?
The book is "Building Strip-Planked Boats" by Nick Schade
I love your work but I have to admit I'd have to build that jig you're building the boat on a little higher off the floor to save my knees, but I'm an old man.
There is alway a trade off on the height of the strongback. High enough to reach the bottom easily and low enough not to have to stand on a step stool to reach the keel of the boat easily.
Cheers,
Bob
👍
What is the reason you decided not to use nails instead of screws?
My guess is because nails would be incredibly hard to remove from the molds, making them nearly impossible to smoothly uninstall without destroying them. Staples and screws are easily removed, and in this situation the fasteners are mostly acting as clamps as opposed to adding any real strength to the equation, which is why the plastic nails are being used in permanent wood to wood connections, the glue is where the strength lies, and even then it'll get completely encased in epoxy and fiberglass.
I know its a dumb question but i assume that the brad nails are all 316SS?
No they are plastic. Designed not to damage tools while fairing.
Thanks for watching!
Wow, i did not know they made them in plastic. What a great idea. Yes i follow all your builds. Always enjoy.
We so need your guidance please...I'm just a dad helping his son, we're doing a science experiment and have to make a "boat" using only 1/2" by 1/2" (88 linear feet max) as the frame and 42 ft sq butcher paper ( 36" by 14") to cover that frame that has to hold a person to cross a swimming pool one time. What kind of waterproofing material can be applied to the butcher paper that is both non-toxic and won't come off (it will be in a HS swimming pool!). I don't understand the laws of physics in making someone float, the smallest boat I've ever been in had an open bar LOL!!!. Thanks my friend. Caveat is we don't have power tools (jigsaws etc) and no nails, screw or staples can be used, just wood glue/caulking.
Sounds like quite a challenge. My best suggestion in Gesso. This is the sealing material artist use to seal a canvas. It is non toxic water soluble. Once dries it creates a flexible sealed surface. I’d paint several coats on the outside and inside. Maybe even put extra strip of paper over the seams. The gesso will work like glue.
Let me know how it comes out.
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Very kind of you Bob. The teachers probably laugh themselves silly coming up with these, the last one was designing a container that could keep a potato chip safe from a baseball bat and tossed down staircases using only common household materials (no wood boxes and no commercial packing like bubble wrap etc).
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Bob, what type of glue do you like for putting the wood together, I'm thinking JB Weld, (Crazy Glue is useless over large spaces and wood glue isn't strong enough, don't think it's waterproof either). I can't envision how we'll wrap the frame with only 36" by 14" of butcher paper, nor how 88" of 1/"2 by 1/2" of wood strips
will float a person who weighs 115 lbs LOL
@@wyattspop Titebond III waterproof very strong.
Having made a couple of strip boats with WRC I will say that I am a little puzzled by the decision for such thick strips. Seems to have resulted in a number of design and construction decisions that are less than optimal. Using fairing compound and obscuring that beautiful wood makes me a little misty eyed.
Hi Bart,
I covered why the strips are that size in an earlier video "How to Cut Strip Planks Like a Pro S3-E7" ua-cam.com/video/rWPgeCOjtuo/v-deo.html if you start at 1:50 you can hear John Harris the naval architect from Chesapeake Light Craft explain the construction of the tender.
This boat will be painted to fit the classic look of Arabella.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Sorry, there must be something wrong with the stations. Missing smooth lines?
The small strips follow the shape of the boat. At 18:42 you can see the strip laying flat as I glue and nail it (in the overhead shot) you can see the slight bent I put in to follow the curve of the plank below.
Won’t the screws and nails leave scars in the planks?
Hi Steven,
As I mentioned at 21:10 the hull will be faired with fairing compound which will also be used to fill all of the screw holes once the screws are removed.
Thanks for watching.
Why didn't you build a steamer to steam the planks?
Hi Frank,
I have build a steam box in S2-E8 "Building a Steam Box and Steam Bending Oak Frames"
ua-cam.com/video/EdDDETQd3b4/v-deo.html
It's a bit big for this small task. I do show a small steamer in the following episode S3-E13 that I used for some short pieces.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Why all the short little strips on on the bow? weak joining them all in a line.. on a bulkhead
I explained why I used narrow strips in the video. You may have also missed that the hull will have layers of fiberglass on the outside an inside. The strength of the hull will come from the fiberglass not the wood core!
This looks like being a relatively heavy vessel. I guess Steve will use the boom to lift it, but it will be ungainly to manoeuver on to the house. A beautiful build though.
Hi Norm,
Using a boom has been the plan all along. The cedar planks are extremely lightweight. It’s my expectation that the tender will be a manageable weight.
Cheers!
Bob
Check out another viewers comment (S Wood) He build a 10' dinghy with using similar construction that ended up weighing 35 kg = 77 lbs. As predicted Vitoria will be in the 75-80 lbs range. You can scroll up to find his detailed comment.
A shop cat would be useful here.
Hee bob, consider putting on some knee protection. I'm always a little hurt myself when I see you sit on your knees. I'm in my twenties but always wear some. Beautiful work anyways. Cheers
Hi Anne,
Thanks for your concern. Decades of daily yoga has kept my all of my joints flexible and in good health. At 68 years old I have no issues of getting up and down to and from the floor. Also, I really dislike knee pads they're just not for me!
Thanks you for the nice complement.
Chers,
Bob
Hallo from Norway, you dingy have a nice form, and i wil try to bild one, but i ask t you
Wil you sell me the drawing ? Regards from Bjørn
Good work very interesting, can't wait for the next on, have a nice day and Thank's for the share !!!.👍👍💦💦✔✔
I know nothing about boat building but why not just create a 2" wide false stem? (I hate flaunting my ignorance). 😳
Had the same thought. Imagine Bob pondered doing just that before opting for alternate solution.
Making another outer stem would have taken much more time and material. The stem I have is how the boat is designed. Trimming and fairing the stem was the simplest and correct thing to do.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks for the explanation. Clearly I did not pay enough attention to the time and material and labor that went into the first outer stem.
А почему не применить медные или бронзовые шурупы? Чтобы потом не выкручивать. Крепче же будет с шурупами.
Все постоянные крепления приклеены. Последняя лодка будет из стекловолокна внутри и снаружи. Добавление бронзовых шпажек не добавит ему прочности.
First rate job using broken materials because they can be made to look pretty.
make a new false stem ?
For sure. I did that on a build - easy enough to do right on the form after the planks are cut and faired.
I would think that would be the easier operation.
Making another outer stem would have taken much more time and material. The stem I have is how the boat is designed. Trimming and fairing the stem was the simplest and correct thing to do.
I see that you did not bevel each edge of the strips to match one another. I feel that would have been a more proper way to do strip planking. Then you don’t have to rely on filler in the gaps between the strip planks.
The cedar strips are only a substrate of the hull. All the strength will come from the multiple layers fiberglass inside and out.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding that’s going to be one heavy boat!
@@daviddickmeyer5231 What are you basing that on? Another viewer ( S Wood )commented on a 10' dinghy he build with using similar construction that ended up weighing 35 kg = 77 lbs. As predicted Vitoria will be in the 75-80 lbs range. You can scroll up to find his detailed comment.
101st comment!👍
Why u not work with holding bloks now u screw everything
Bob, you need to use some knee pads to look after yourself. Mike 🇦🇺
Mike, thanks for your concern. Decades of daily yoga has kept my all of my joints flexible and in good health. So I have as you say I've looked after myself. At 68 years old I have no issues of getting up and down to and from the floor. Also, I really dislike knee pads they're just not for me!
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
dont like all short lengths at bow
Why not make outer stem wider ?seems like te outer stem should😮 e fitted to the outside of planks