Klipsch R-15M - Upgrades & Teardown
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- I show the upgrades I made to my Klipsch R-15M bookshelf speakers.
These combined upgrades made this speak gave it way more clarity and brightened the tone without adding any harshness. If you already own these speakers, are unhappy with the sounds, and are also looking for a fun project, then definitely try doing some upgrades yourself.
Check out my other speaker teardowns here:
Klipsh R-14M - • Klipsch R-14M - With S...
Triangle Borea BR02 - • Triangle Borea BR02 - ...
Paradigm Mini Monitor V.1 - • Paradigm Mini Monitor ...
There's a sizeable community within the audiophile segments on UA-cam. And people who deconstruct / upgrade speakers are far and few between. Most people just get a product and talk of it. That's why yours is different and gets you some traction. It's refreshing!
@EvilHomer15 - Thank you!
TIp: it's 10 times easier to remove the first plastic frame without a screwdriver, if you try to gently pull it with your fingers from the side closer to the speaker rubber surround. Please +1 this comment, so other people see.
I also bypassed the factory amplifier, and added one of my own with my own DSP tuning
Very helpful on disassembly technique. You've clearly put a lot into these middle-of-the-road speakers. I have a number of them around. I like everything you did, but you put appliance wire again; I'd bet fairly heavily you'd achieve even higher SQ with better wire, esp silver. Maybe something for next time when you get the itch to rip apart again..
Thank you brother! My tweeter failed recently so I want to buy a better one & install it.
I just bought 2 sets of the R-51M on sale for 145 a pair. Basically same speaker. I agree with you on the sound. Love the idea of upgrading the internals. I don't think I could do the crossover though. Seems beyond my capabilities.
@Scot M - Sounds like you got a good deal! It's a good idea not to go beyond what you're comfortable with because even a mediocre speaker will sound better than a broken one. That said, never be afraid to try new things! Thanks for watching!
I would halve or remove the 39uF cap, it makes a dip in the midrange
Them dowels are killing me!! HAHHAHA. In a subwoofer enclosure it makes sense. These bookshelf speakers aren't even going to see 150 watts continuous to constitute the need for this type of support. Everything else I would say is great for the speaker less the padding inside for frequency response. That is if it effects it negatively.
Thousands of watts subwoofers need cross members for proper support/rigidity. I've built a few enclosures for some things before and never in my life needed to think of cross members/added support for a bookshelf speaker. There is literally not enough coming from that box to make it necessary.
I use Dowels too but I cut mine just so they just fit & then slide in thin disks / wooden nickels & epoxy
You're wrong about one thing. The cheap electrolytic caps ARE actually designed for audio, because they are non-polarized electrolytics. Normal electrolytics that are used in power supplies are polarized.
@DM - Excellent criticism. I’d say yes and no. They are very cheap; around a ten to twenty times lower in cost compared poly capacitors. And while they are suited for audio applications because of being non-polarized, they do not perform as well as other options in the market. Thanks for watching!!
Very interesting video! Thanks for sharing!!
Casey, I have a question for you. Do you sometimes try to modify the topology of your crossover to make them sound better? When I got a pair of speakers, I toy with the design (damping material, crossover parts, lenght of the port) to figure out if I can upgrade them. Sometimes the result can be phenomenal. Because you have much of the technical know-how, I think you can do better than just replacing parts and putting bluetack.
@Yves Boutin - Excellent question! I do add dampening material and upgrade the crossover components of the speakers because those are things I know make a meaningful difference in the speaker's performance. I choose not to change the values of the crossover parts because it will change the frequency and phase response of the speaker; which if not done correctly can quite adversely affect the response. I know that the speakers I have, save for the Sony's, all measure reasonably well from the factory so there is no reason for me to change form the stock values. If I wanted better response out of my speakers, I would send them to Danny Richie over at GR Research, he is a true expert on getting this to measure dead-flat.
@@Casey_Schmidt It is true that Mr. Richie can do an excellent job at fixing badly designed speakers, but my point is to emphasise that YOU may learn a lot from doing it yourself. 35 years ago, I started living on my own. Like many who begin in life, I have to put most of my money on rent, food and reinboursing my loan from college. So I bought a very crappy and second hand sound system from a friend (I think it was a Sansui combo with cassette and a turntable on top plus speakers consisting of one full-range 6-1/2 driver in each box). Needless to say I was not satisfied with the sound, so I bought 2 piezo tweeters from the late Radio Shack. I knew nothing of electronics at the time but the salesman told me I didn't need a capacitor for the tweeter since piezoelectric driver acts like a bypass for low frequencies. Also, there was no damping at all in the enclosure and I knew there should be some. After piercing a hole in the box for the tweeter and pluguing it, I put a good piece of insulating fiberglass and listen to the result. I can't put into words the satisfaction I got from this little system but I can tell you that it gave me the confidence to try and modify other speakers. By word of mouth, family, friends and neighbours were asking me to upgrade their speakers as well. I have around 100 pairs modified so far and I even constructed a few of my own. This has been a fun journey for me and I believe you have the potential to achieve much more, maybe even start your own company! In any case, I wish you good luck!
Really good vid thanks for the research, planing to tinker mine also. I was wondering 2 things, what brand/model amp are you using. Last how long did you leave them "R15m” burn in. Thanks again for the video, really enjoyed it.
@SlappyTheMonkey - Thanks! The amp I'm currently using is the Topping PA3. It's an awesome little Class D amp. It has a very clean sound for the price; ~$100 USD. Most of the burn-in happens within 40 hours. That said, I don't usually leave my speakers to burn in, I go straight into listening to them with the understanding that the sound will change/improve over the first few days of use.
Casey Schmidt thank you for the quick response, looking forward to up coming videos.
I wish a video about de r-51pm
You can help, my P 51 PM reproduce white noise without connected sources and this is a common problem with these models. Some buyers face this problem, others do not. Many people solve this problem by exchanging in the store for another pair. Have you heard about this problem? Tell me how you would solve it if you collided. (I would still like to use an internal amplifier).
I heard on the forum that the problem is in the cold solder that they use, others talk about the electromagnetic noise of the bluetooth module. But also, as I understand it, the problem could be in the crossover as well. In any case, the case is not shielded. Do you think it will help to re-solder the components and shield the case with copper tape from the inside?
Any hints are appreciated anyway.
Is the speaker/hook up wire Audtek from Parts Express? Thanks.
I don’t remember the name of the wire. But any silicone insulated wire works fine
This is very informative.
Hey mate, I know it's an old video but I'm grasping at straws here. I've had a pair of R-15PMs for about 5 or so years, went to use them the other morning and they just won't turn on, I've tried different outlets, different cables you name it, nothing. Any ideas what might be wrong? I'd love to keep using them, will probably take them to a local speaker place to get them repaired but wanted to ask if anyone here had any suggestions first.
PM stands for Powered Monitor. If it won’t even power on with a status indicator, then it’s possibly the power switch which is no longer making contact. I’m not sure if the power supply is internal or external. If it’s internal, it could be faulty. Obviously I can do any more than guess from here. Just very the power source is good and the main switch it making good contact.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you for the quick reply! It does have an internal power supply, and the power switch has pretty much stayed on, since the speakers will just automatically turn on and off with the optical cable I have them plugged in with. I may open them up to see if I see anything abnormal.
These are $135 pair at Amazon right now is that a good deal to use these as surrounds in a 5.1.2 home theater ?
It’s a reasonable price I’d say.
Can these speakers be use like studio monitors
Can you make a video about upgrading the R-41M speakers. This retail for 200 per pair and I landed two pairs for 80 each. Major price reduction. But i’d love to take them to the next level.
Richie said he was going to do R-41 upgrades but that he was not making kits for them because he was having room trouble just like you did with the 15s
Hi guys!! My Bluetooth doesn’t work!! How do I fix it ?
Get a bluetooth to RCA adapter
Hi Casey, I bought a pair of these 3 years ago and listened to them without comparing them to other bookshelfs thinking they are good. I have 2 Sony APM550 from the 80s that sound amazing next to the R15Ms. I want to upgrade them just like you did, can you provide me with details of all the components you used? Your diagram explain the specs well but I am mostly puzzled by which brands have good audio quality components.
@Meldon Borg - I've covered the process of upgrading speaker in more detail in my videos about the Paradigm Mini Monitor and the Triangle Borea, so if you want a better explanation go check those out. If you are looking to source the parts, the easiest/best places that I have found are from Sonic Craft and Parts Express. Sonic Craft has a better variety of the very high quality parts while Parts Express has a better variety of the mid-level parts. Between the two suppliers, you'll definitely get everything you need!
Upgrade for 39€ for one side. In germany . Complete with jantzen products. I'm not shure. Did i hear the difference? Realy.
I would love to upgrade my R-25C but i would need a shopping list, noob friendly schematic and guide lol
Spoiler alert: I might be doing the R-25C next ;)
@@Casey_Schmidt Cant wait! I just got mine from used market, trying to decide if wanna go full front Klipsch or stop and try something else before
Hi Casey, I have a pair of these and I am in the process of upgrading mine as well and I am using your video to guide me. Just one question, what are the dimensions of the ABS plate? Thanks! Love your videos.
I don’t recall off the top of my head. Something like 3”x4”? It is dependent on what you can fit through the cutout and how big your components are.
@@Casey_Schmidt Hi again, thanks for responding so fast. I think I'm using about the same components you used. That 39uf capacitor is a big one 😳. Again, thanks for the great tips!
@@billdaily2150 they do get to be a fair size. I order the 0.25x4x12 ABS plate off McMaster. One of those is enough for one pair of speakers.
Hi sir i enjoyed the video. Can you please ggive some links for the acoustic foam and cotton and the blue stuff? Maybe other upgrades you can mention so i can upgrade my rp600m’s?
Danny Richie over on the channel GR Research actually did an awesome upgrade series specifically about the RP600-M so I recommend checking that out as well. I sourced my parts and foam from Parts Express and the stuffing I bought from a local fabric store.
Klipsch told me to just use an old pillow stuffing
How thick are your insulation mats
3/4 inch
@@Casey_Schmidt THX
Where are buying the upgrade components?
Sonic Craft and parts express are where I’ve usually went. Between the two you can get just about any component valve you could need.
That sticky blue stuff isn’t gonna do anything on that steel frame. I have a pair & I hear nothing wrong with them. I think you are bored. Only time that steel rings is if you hit it with something hard, finger flunking , wrench etc. upgrading the crossover isn’t gonna change the sound unless you raise or lover the microfarad rating & I think they know what’s best. Those stainless screws do nothing, that $5 capacitor did nothing if it’s same rating. People I think Klipsch designed them fine. It’s a $250 set of speakers & they sound great like they are. If those caps are non polarized they are for sound. You’ll be a old man or dead before that speaker fails. Dry rot maybe.
If you don’t like it then why did you click on the video?
I have a pair of klipsch R-28F towers. But I noticed they don't produce any sounds from the woofers. I can only hear sounds from their tiny tweeters. Do u know what could be causing it? And how can I fix the issues? Thanks
@Nova Don - Possibly the woofers have become disconnected from the circuit.
@@Casey_Schmidt is there a way to fix this?
@@novadon4729 - If you’re comfortable opening up the enclosure, inspect the wires as well as run a continuity check with a multi-meter on each driver as well as each circuit on the crossover board.
@@Casey_Schmidt any chance you have 4 spare crossovers you’d sell? Pups knocked over all 4 R-15m’s 😒
The originals are fine, I just can’t find a place to buy them anywhere and no luck finding repair places. Let me know if this is possible??
@@Stereoguy2008 - contact me through my email on the about section and I’ll try to get back to you on that.
Why would you say do not go out and buy these speakers when you yourself did? Yes I get it that you modified them to get better sounds out of them? But what if I don't want to tinker? I just want a pair of speakers to listen to? You're saying don't buy these? What do you recommend I do? It's not like Klipsch is a bad brand.
@Mario Meas - You bring up an excellent point. These speakers were gifted to me but I remember them retailing for about $250 USD. The reason why I would say not to buy them is because there are other speakers that, in my opinion, sound better for the same money. I agree that Klipsch isn't a bad brand, however, it's pretty clear based on the construction and frequency responses of the speakers that Klipsch does seem to be more focused on cost-cutting instead of sound quality. The Micca RB42's cost a bit less and are pretty well known to be one of the best little speakers on the market. If you can still find them. If money isn't as big of a concern, I would recommend the Triangle Boreas. They have a much smoother and richer sound than the R-15's and are built far better. At the end of the day, I think it's important for everyone to listen to the speaker they like regardless of what anyone else has to say.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you for responding and clarifying and suggesting. I stumbled into your videos today and I'm impressed with your knowledge and explanations of audio science, especially on the crossover. I have the Klipsch R-41M that I'm using only as a rear surround, so I don't think I really need to upgrade them. I like your videos and just subscribed.
@Mario Meas - Thank you! The R-14M's are one of my favorite speaks and I've always wanted to listen to the R-41M's (the updated version of the R-14's).
Non le comprate io le ho avute , non vi perdete niente prendete le jpv vanno meglio
terrible...just DONT use a screwdriver?!! there are so many other tools that will serve and are made of plastic.