factory compression makes a difference too. In the early 2000s I had a little stock bottom end mustang 5.0 with ported iron GT40 heads, a crane 2031 cam, and a procharger @8 psi. That motor is 8.75:1 stock compression. So I never even had it on a dyno or connected to a wideband and was able to tune it well enough that I didn't hurt the motor. It made 396rwhp when I finally did a dyno day. Nowadays, an Ls3 is 10.7:1 and makes that amount of power NA. Totally different ballgame.
bruh, i want to personally thank u for the time and money u put into building engines and making videos for me to watch and learn on your dime and time. because of u, now i know what i want to do with my 6.0. again, a big thank u.
I'm running 13-14 psi on my almost daily driven 91 F250 with a forged rotating assembly 460 (472) EFI BBF. 92 pump gas with water methanol (boost juice) injection.
I'm disappointed I missed this one. Really up my alley. Was running good times on 8psi in the Gutless Supreme. My fuel pump shit the bed somewhat, ran out of fuel pressure compensation (running fuel pressure sensor). Engine lived with a lean-ish 8psi pass. Running decent timing too, I love it, makes the engine run cool. On 12-14psi I doubt it would've lived considering it's a 10.5:1 CR stock longblock K24A2. I will say now, once it's fixed I'm gonna tighten up my Fuel Pressure safety threshold.
I always have this conversation with my customers. I always ask if they are required to appear at their employer daily? If they have a mortgage ? If they need a reliable vehicle? That's usually where the conversation ends. 👍
I learned this lesson the hard way. In my 20s, I tried turning a daily driver into a project car, and it didn't work out well. For example, one time I tried to do an engine swap on my days off. Things didn't go as planned, and I had to use a week's worth of sick days. My boss was not amused.
safest route. but if you want to bank your resources don't get involved in the first place. meaning your gonna have to do your transportation the hard way there is no other choice. bicycles don't burn gas lol.
The real mods I do too my daily driver is too improve mpg, which is usually a detunner/eco mode tune of some sort which I did too my 2005 dodge ram, I eventually did a e85 conversion after the fuel pump fail, best mod I ever did too my daily driver.
I currently drive a 2016 ford fiesta st with the 1.6 ecoboost as my daily driver. I run an E65 ethanol mixture and the "bigger" turbo on it will build up 35psi of boost. This is my only vehicle. It is my grocery getter and my way to work every morning. It did come stock with a turbo that put out about 16psi so my bigger turbo upgrade has added about 19 additional psi
"Street Boost" is that amount which allows you to fill up at the local gas station and drive anywhere you like without breaking pistons or lifting a head. For me, it's likely 16 - 20 pounds.
Richard, if you see this comment, I currently have researched these LS engines for 100s of hours now(your videos). I have a 05 Silverado short bed , single cab, classic I've been restoring/custom building , and im just very torn on what direction to go. I have notes on ALL combos for. 4.8/5.3/6.0 builds, but I am stuck in between wanting a descent N/A build, but also able to put a small turbo on it down the road without any downfalls that can maintain a decent mpg(15-20) when driving far distances(drivability/efficiency) . I like the 4.8 idea, and just adding overkill heads, and a descent "truck style" cam ,high pressure oil pump , etc... But then I worry about not replacing all the bearings/not measuring internals/dirty oil and coolant passageways.... But also like the idea of taking a 5.3 and having it bored over to a 5.7 and keeping it N/A, and going ahead and having a machine shop match a good combo of crank/rods/bearings/ pistons /cam/ head work etc.... while I'm at it ......and never adding a forced induction.. Should I just buy a junkyard 4.8 and have the turbo ? Or would it be a similar cost to build the 5.3 fresh/brand new ? And what would you think the differences in power/longevity /effeciency would be? Lmk,. New to this, but really really love your technical videos that teach what camshafts ACTUALLY. Do, and flowing different heads/combos. Etc. So us newbies can actually understand there is More to a pushrod v8 engine, than just having it make that "loppy" sound at idle. Lol thankyou, hope to hear from you. Peace
If you haven’t made a decision yet, I’d slap a 6.0 in it with a small cam, springs and ring gap. Boom done. It’ll have your fuel mileage on the lower side, but it’ll be torquey even at low rpm’s so good for a daily. Then if you slap a smallish turbo on it in the future you’ll have really good boost response and a lot of power. It’ll require a lot less work to get it where you want.
@@thephilosopher13 I appreciate your reply. Would you happen to have any ideas on what kind of fuel mileage a well tuned 6.0 could get? (I understand that it's silly and shouldn't matter lol) I just started the build with mpg in mind cause I think it would be a "neat attribute" ,after hearing Corvette nerds talking about getting 30mpg on highway. Haha thanks, peace
@@thephilosopher13 for sure. I know it's an oxymoron. I've just heard stories of these guys with boosted 4.8, and 5.3s claiming in the.high 20s mpg ,with MORE than enough power, and like the idea of an incredibly well built and efficient ls, if it's actually a possibility, if that makes any sense. Lol
@@DwightKShrute oh it’s definitely possible. My buddy’s 5.3 still gets Okay mileage. I’d say he’s probably getting 20ish mpg highway but he’s also only got about 380-400 hp lol. And that’s highway, straight highway. When he’s running in the city a lot I bet he’s at about 10mpg 😅 granted, a lot of that is because he likes hearing it I between city buildings lol.
We went on vacation to Chincoteague , VA and rented a car at the Salisbury, MD airport. A new Chevy Trax AWD. We were able to all ride comfortably, Me, my wife, and my 12 year old granddaughter who is 5’6 and is mistaken for an adult. We stayed 4 days/5 nights and we drove all over and back to Salisbury, MD. This is a 3300 lb with us and a full tank and luggage likely 3700 lbs. I stress this is AWD full time. It has a 1.3L turbocharged engine that makes 155 hp and 180 ft lbs of torque. It actually felt sporty. I think it had a 6-speed OD. I think it does that stupid stop-start thing which must be hard on things. But, to me a1.3L 4 cylinder pulling a 64 Chevelle full time 4 wheel drive? No, that’s crazy? But does it well the engine running an hrs drive each way 60 mph, curvy 2 lanes. It never felt under stress. We ran regular gas. Not a hiccup Ford has a 2.0L turbo that makes 310 hp and 285 ft lbs for the new 4400 lb Edge. Out 3.7 V6 in our 2011 Mustang makes that. Our 2013 Edge with the 3.5 L V6 makes 265 hp and 285 ft lbs . Our Mustang and Edge are NA are like a hog on roller skates in the least bit of winter precipitation. You can’t get them up the driveway. We are considering trading them both in for a Trax even up. God forgive me, my Gypsy/ Celtic Tinker ancestors, but I may just get a Chevy Trax. My wife loved it. I still have my 65 FE Galaxie, but I have to turbocharge it. I have a 105 truck block that has the 3 rib main webbing and according to my neighbor and his Sonic in the shed, it has 428 thick (even for a SCJ428). I’d like to build it with a 4.13 bore and 4.25 stroke for a 455.48 FE with CNC PROMAXX SHOCKER with 2.165x 1.65 exhaust with an equivalent of the Brian Tooley cam for a big LS and maybe use the 3 inch X pipe and run a crossover to the right side so I am using my 2 inch tube headers mount the wastegate BOVs and Turbo where a catalytic converter would go with a bash plate underneath run the exhaust open with a 4 inch straight out under the right door. One up pipe to the Hat on a 750 Holley. The air underneath the car would cool it the one 3 inch pipe up should make 800 hp on E85 with a 510 hp 455 that revs to 6600. What about a remote turbo running off of the front part of an X just run a 3 inch cross pipe over like a manifold Feed the hot side and run the cold side up. Put a slight snorkel and K/N cone in for good clean air and the exhaust straight under the door.
Turbocharged a 455 FE with aluminum heads and intake water pump only weighs 510lbs. I have seen it, put the turbo right behind the torque box, using the X pipe and a 3 inch pipe with header bolt ons to attach to the back of Xpipe and run into the hot side of the turbo. The air intake can come up with the cone filter and the Exhaust straight out 4 inch. I would not think it would be louder than a couple Harleys. 800 -850 hp possible with E85 ? Am I crazy or just stupid?
7mGTe Supra 60-1 ct26 piston/rod build mhg arp everything balanced everything bored decked line bored. V8 afm (ls400) 550 cc injectors, apexi neo to tune. Stock base timing. Greddy Profec B spec. 14psi if I wanted kill I popped the dial on the Profec and turn it a little more and run 18psi. 93 forever. Drove it for more than 10 years. I wore the turbo out and thought it was toast did a 360 thrust upgrade and the smoke went away. Yay :p
Depends who is tuning it and what fuel you are using - E85 = more boost. A standard Nissan Nismo GT-R runs about 14.5 PSI and you get warranty with that (520hp at all four wheels).
Sr20det ran 18 all the time. 93 all the time. I built this for some one else dude drove it for 3 years sold the swap to a dude and it’s still riding. Stock timing on it. Both these has better cold air intakes fmic upgrades and exhaust I built (short).
Been seeing 2000 hpa/2 bar/29.4 psi of boost when logging the newer 4.0 TT V8 engines in the bigger Audis, Lamborghini Urus, Bentleys, and Porsches with mild stage 1 ECU tunes.
My work truck I have lq4 with mild cam and 72mm turbo on 10# 12 degrees and 93 octane . Trucks just over 7k # empty and usually has a heavy load behind it. Heads have never been off it
9:13 he's got a point group C cars/cars that would be considered million dollar cars as race collector items today often didn't make it across the finish line and they had real race brains behind the builds. NOT TO mention a good deal of them had good budgets but the reason for that the builders had personal benefactors financing them who wanted to go racing, meaning often they were built in a barn or machine shed. then there were the governing bodies that were regulating the sport out of existence, then regularly piss'n all over factory backing, through rule changes. way to many spoons in the soup. when thinking governance think of two hands firmly planted around your neck trying to slowly in incrementally strangle you to death. at home, the only thing stopping you is your budget. a crafty guy could build a fast car he enjoys but the second you try to go legal with you are back at handing your property to the state/government. meaning you are back at track day cars if you refuse to do that.. if you don't mind producing them and them alone and your clientele doesn't mind either you are in the red, but if you go that route you better be good. well anyway, I went way out of the scope of the topic but I felt compelled to say it.
Depends on the engine car etc.. focus should be on keeping the entire car out of the breaking zone.. for me I'd say 5psi. Sure can go higher but it gets risky
I did comment on a live before but it's was a terrible attempt. But when I was referring to the 318 I was referring to the Mopar small block maybe La cuz the oil better and I got one, and they had they don't flow air very well in the upper RPM range, I was wondering how much boost a stock block 318 with a turbo jammed on top if that would make any more power and how much power it would handle was the question I was trying to ask it's something I'm thinking about in the back of my mind but I don't know if it's going to grenade or if it might work I don't have the time to throw at it cuz I'm busy with a thousand other things but if someone says it might work I might try it, I can't find anything on this idea
Richard says if you raise the usual ambient atmospheric pressure of around 14.7 PSI to 14.7 PSI higher with boost, you should get double the horsepower. Build your engine for good power, naturally aspirated, then boost will increase it in proportion to the boost PSI over ambient PSI. Can you imagine the power we could make if the atmosphere was at 29.4 PSI?
@@allanb3222 06 LS it's just a gen 4 with a 3 bolt cam and no variable valve timing, just dod. I never heard them called gen 3 1/2 until this video but I knew what they ment
boost is irrelevant hp is irrelevant maximum torque @ rpm is the limiting factor based on the combination a 5.3 that is barely ok with 500 ft lbs at 2000 rpm can handle 1200 ft lbs at 6000+ rpm so many (experts) talk about hp limits but that doesn’t tell you the low end torque that can scatter a motor that is only making 200 hp
factory compression makes a difference too. In the early 2000s I had a little stock bottom end mustang 5.0 with ported iron GT40 heads, a crane 2031 cam, and a procharger @8 psi. That motor is 8.75:1 stock compression. So I never even had it on a dyno or connected to a wideband and was able to tune it well enough that I didn't hurt the motor. It made 396rwhp when I finally did a dyno day.
Nowadays, an Ls3 is 10.7:1 and makes that amount of power NA. Totally different ballgame.
which stock 5.0L is 8.75:1 compression
@@richardholdener1727 I thought all the '87-'93 5.0HOs were 8.75:1 stock.
bruh, i want to personally thank u for the time and money u put into building engines and making videos for me to watch and learn on your dime and time. because of u, now i know what i want to do with my 6.0. again, a big thank u.
I'm running 13-14 psi on my almost daily driven 91 F250 with a forged rotating assembly 460 (472) EFI BBF. 92 pump gas with water methanol (boost juice) injection.
I'm disappointed I missed this one. Really up my alley. Was running good times on 8psi in the Gutless Supreme. My fuel pump shit the bed somewhat, ran out of fuel pressure compensation (running fuel pressure sensor). Engine lived with a lean-ish 8psi pass. Running decent timing too, I love it, makes the engine run cool. On 12-14psi I doubt it would've lived considering it's a 10.5:1 CR stock longblock K24A2. I will say now, once it's fixed I'm gonna tighten up my Fuel Pressure safety threshold.
I like to follow the "don't mod your daily driver" rule. The go-fast parts can go on the project car.
agreed, extra money always goes on the money pit in the garage. lol
I always have this conversation with my customers. I always ask if they are required to appear at their employer daily? If they have a mortgage ? If they need a reliable vehicle? That's usually where the conversation ends. 👍
I learned this lesson the hard way. In my 20s, I tried turning a daily driver into a project car, and it didn't work out well. For example, one time I tried to do an engine swap on my days off. Things didn't go as planned, and I had to use a week's worth of sick days. My boss was not amused.
safest route. but if you want to bank your resources don't get involved in the first place. meaning your gonna have to do your transportation the hard way there is no other choice. bicycles don't burn gas lol.
The real mods I do too my daily driver is too improve mpg, which is usually a detunner/eco mode tune of some sort which I did too my 2005 dodge ram, I eventually did a e85 conversion after the fuel pump fail, best mod I ever did too my daily driver.
I currently drive a 2016 ford fiesta st with the 1.6 ecoboost as my daily driver. I run an E65 ethanol mixture and the "bigger" turbo on it will build up 35psi of boost. This is my only vehicle. It is my grocery getter and my way to work every morning. It did come stock with a turbo that put out about 16psi so my bigger turbo upgrade has added about 19 additional psi
"Street Boost" is that amount which allows you to fill up at the local gas station and drive anywhere you like without breaking pistons or lifting a head. For me, it's likely 16 - 20 pounds.
My daily driver 87 Daytona turbo Z ran 12 - 15 lbs of boost and she'd flat get with it all day long
Richard, if you see this comment, I currently have researched these LS engines for 100s of hours now(your videos). I have a 05 Silverado short bed , single cab, classic I've been restoring/custom building , and im just very torn on what direction to go. I have notes on ALL combos for. 4.8/5.3/6.0 builds, but I am stuck in between wanting a descent N/A build, but also able to put a small turbo on it down the road without any downfalls that can maintain a decent mpg(15-20) when driving far distances(drivability/efficiency) . I like the 4.8 idea, and just adding overkill heads, and a descent "truck style" cam ,high pressure oil pump , etc... But then I worry about not replacing all the bearings/not measuring internals/dirty oil and coolant passageways.... But also like the idea of taking a 5.3 and having it bored over to a 5.7 and keeping it N/A, and going ahead and having a machine shop match a good combo of crank/rods/bearings/ pistons /cam/ head work etc.... while I'm at it ......and never adding a forced induction.. Should I just buy a junkyard 4.8 and have the turbo ? Or would it be a similar cost to build the 5.3 fresh/brand new ? And what would you think the differences in power/longevity /effeciency would be? Lmk,. New to this, but really really love your technical videos that teach what camshafts ACTUALLY. Do, and flowing different heads/combos. Etc. So us newbies can actually understand there is More to a pushrod v8 engine, than just having it make that "loppy" sound at idle. Lol thankyou, hope to hear from you. Peace
If you haven’t made a decision yet, I’d slap a 6.0 in it with a small cam, springs and ring gap. Boom done. It’ll have your fuel mileage on the lower side, but it’ll be torquey even at low rpm’s so good for a daily. Then if you slap a smallish turbo on it in the future you’ll have really good boost response and a lot of power. It’ll require a lot less work to get it where you want.
@@thephilosopher13 I appreciate your reply. Would you happen to have any ideas on what kind of fuel mileage a well tuned 6.0 could get? (I understand that it's silly and shouldn't matter lol) I just started the build with mpg in mind cause I think it would be a "neat attribute" ,after hearing Corvette nerds talking about getting 30mpg on highway. Haha thanks, peace
@@DwightKShrute I have never tuned or built a 6.0 with fuel mileage in mind lol. It’s usually about burning MORE fuel.
@@thephilosopher13 for sure. I know it's an oxymoron. I've just heard stories of these guys with boosted 4.8, and 5.3s claiming in the.high 20s mpg ,with MORE than enough power, and like the idea of an incredibly well built and efficient ls, if it's actually a possibility, if that makes any sense. Lol
@@DwightKShrute oh it’s definitely possible. My buddy’s 5.3 still gets
Okay mileage. I’d say he’s probably getting 20ish mpg highway but he’s also only got about 380-400 hp lol. And that’s highway, straight highway. When he’s running in the city a lot I bet he’s at about 10mpg 😅 granted, a lot of that is because he likes hearing it I between city buildings lol.
We went on vacation to Chincoteague , VA and rented a car at the Salisbury, MD airport. A new Chevy Trax AWD. We were able to all ride comfortably, Me, my wife, and my 12 year old granddaughter who is 5’6 and is mistaken for an adult. We stayed 4 days/5 nights and we drove all over and back to Salisbury, MD. This is a 3300 lb with us and a full tank and luggage likely 3700 lbs. I stress this is AWD full time. It has a 1.3L turbocharged engine that makes 155 hp and 180 ft lbs of torque. It actually felt sporty. I think it had a 6-speed OD. I think it does that stupid stop-start thing which must be hard on things. But, to me a1.3L 4 cylinder pulling a 64 Chevelle full time 4 wheel drive? No, that’s crazy? But does it well the engine running an hrs drive each way 60 mph, curvy 2 lanes. It never felt under stress. We ran regular gas. Not a hiccup Ford has a 2.0L turbo that makes 310 hp and 285 ft lbs for the new 4400 lb Edge. Out 3.7 V6 in our 2011 Mustang makes that. Our 2013 Edge with the 3.5 L V6 makes 265 hp and 285 ft lbs . Our Mustang and Edge are NA are like a hog on roller skates in the least bit of winter precipitation. You can’t get them up the driveway. We are considering trading them both in for a Trax even up. God forgive me, my Gypsy/ Celtic Tinker ancestors, but I may just get a Chevy Trax. My wife loved it. I still have my 65 FE Galaxie, but I have to turbocharge it. I have a 105 truck block that has the 3 rib main webbing and according to my neighbor and his Sonic in the shed, it has 428 thick (even for a SCJ428). I’d like to build it with a 4.13 bore and 4.25 stroke for a 455.48 FE with CNC PROMAXX SHOCKER with 2.165x 1.65 exhaust with an equivalent of the Brian Tooley cam for a big LS and maybe use the 3 inch X pipe and run a crossover to the right side so I am using my 2 inch tube headers mount the wastegate BOVs and Turbo where a catalytic converter would go with a bash plate underneath run the exhaust open with a 4 inch straight out under the right door. One up pipe to the Hat on a 750 Holley. The air underneath the car would cool it the one 3 inch pipe up should make 800 hp on E85 with a 510 hp 455 that revs to 6600. What about a remote turbo running off of the front part of an X just run a 3 inch cross pipe over like a manifold Feed the hot side and run the cold side up. Put a slight snorkel and K/N cone in for good clean air and the exhaust straight under the door.
Turbocharged a 455 FE with aluminum heads and intake water pump only weighs 510lbs. I have seen it, put the turbo right behind the torque box, using the X pipe and a 3 inch pipe with header bolt ons to attach to the back of Xpipe and run into the hot side of the turbo. The air intake can come up with the cone filter and the Exhaust straight out 4 inch. I would not think it would be louder than a couple Harleys. 800 -850 hp possible with E85 ? Am I crazy or just stupid?
I'm pushing 16 lbs in 7:1 comp BBC 427 locked out 30 deg timing pump gas in street car, with AC. Hear a little rattle only when really cold outside.
Starts with a little then a little won't do it so you do just a little bit more, until you're bumming a rid to work until you can get a beater.
So many variables come into play.
2014 C7 A&A centri supercharger. Stock pistons, 9psi, 93 octane with methanol injection boost referenced. Can drive it anywhere
7mGTe Supra 60-1 ct26 piston/rod build mhg arp everything balanced everything bored decked line bored. V8 afm (ls400) 550 cc injectors, apexi neo to tune. Stock base timing. Greddy Profec B spec. 14psi if I wanted kill I popped the dial on the Profec and turn it a little more and run 18psi. 93 forever. Drove it for more than 10 years. I wore the turbo out and thought it was toast did a 360 thrust upgrade and the smoke went away. Yay :p
Depends who is tuning it and what fuel you are using - E85 = more boost. A standard Nissan Nismo GT-R runs about 14.5 PSI and you get warranty with that (520hp at all four wheels).
Sr20det ran 18 all the time. 93 all the time. I built this for some one else dude drove it for 3 years sold the swap to a dude and it’s still riding. Stock timing on it. Both these has better cold air intakes fmic upgrades and exhaust I built (short).
Certainly a big difference between making power and making power for 40 minutes.
The end truth is power takes money, and more money
Local guy with a turbo Honda has different levels depending on what gear he is in.
Been seeing 2000 hpa/2 bar/29.4 psi of boost when logging the newer 4.0 TT V8 engines in the bigger Audis, Lamborghini Urus, Bentleys, and Porsches with mild stage 1 ECU tunes.
My work truck I have lq4 with mild cam and 72mm turbo on 10# 12 degrees and 93 octane .
Trucks just over 7k # empty and usually has a heavy load behind it.
Heads have never been off it
nice
9:13 he's got a point group C cars/cars that would be considered million dollar cars as race collector items today often didn't make it across the finish line and they had real race brains behind the builds. NOT TO mention a good deal of them had good budgets but the reason for that the builders had personal benefactors financing them who wanted to go racing, meaning often they were built in a barn or machine shed. then there were the governing bodies that were regulating the sport out of existence, then regularly piss'n all over factory backing, through rule changes.
way to many spoons in the soup. when thinking governance think of two hands firmly planted around your neck trying to slowly in incrementally strangle you to death.
at home, the only thing stopping you is your budget. a crafty guy could build a fast car he enjoys but the second you try to go legal with you are back at handing your property to the state/government. meaning you are back at track day cars if you refuse to do that.. if you don't mind producing them and them alone and your clientele doesn't mind either you are in the red, but if you go that route you better be good.
well anyway, I went way out of the scope of the topic but I felt compelled to say it.
Running 20psi on my 15 Cruze Cruze on E85. I have a tune for 23psi but it liked to break tires loose too easily even in 3rd when it was wet.
Dr Evil would say a million lbs for street use.
I run 8 lbs on mine. It is my daily driver.
21 lbs on my Pontiac 400 E85 and Intercooler. It’s 10 lbs on spring and 21 on scramble
bet it runs good-twice as good on scramble
What type of plug do you run in a turbo car.
Do you work on sniper Holley efi? I got a Pontiac V8 I wanna boost already have a procharger
Maggie z06. Stock everything accept blower and trans. 5-6psi 93 all the time
5-14 lbs boost with a intercooler.
How about a360 fe in a pickup
Depends on the engine car etc.. focus should be on keeping the entire car out of the breaking zone.. for me I'd say 5psi. Sure can go higher but it gets risky
Does it count off I drive it every day it is not going to rain or snow?
Street boost? Whatever the street handles for boost at that given time. 😂
I did comment on a live before but it's was a terrible attempt.
But when I was referring to the 318 I was referring to the Mopar small block maybe La cuz the oil better and I got one, and they had they don't flow air very well in the upper RPM range, I was wondering how much boost a stock block 318 with a turbo jammed on top if that would make any more power and how much power it would handle was the question I was trying to ask it's something I'm thinking about in the back of my mind but I don't know if it's going to grenade or if it might work I don't have the time to throw at it cuz I'm busy with a thousand other things but if someone says it might work I might try it,
I can't find anything on this idea
Richard says if you raise the usual ambient atmospheric pressure of around 14.7 PSI to 14.7 PSI higher with boost, you should get double the horsepower.
Build your engine for good power, naturally aspirated, then boost will increase it in proportion to the boost PSI over ambient PSI.
Can you imagine the power we could make if the atmosphere was at 29.4 PSI?
@@exploranator I'm not looking to build a race car I just want a little more in the mid to top range for when I'm pulling
LS Gen 4 connecting rods are the same as gen three and a half connecting rods
What year are the Gen 3.5??
@@allanb3222 06 LS it's just a gen 4 with a 3 bolt cam and no variable valve timing, just dod. I never heard them called gen 3 1/2 until this video but I knew what they ment
@@allanb3222 also not all 06 ls engines are just the LH6
6-11lbs
Mazda rotary won the 24 Hours of Lemans overall the only Japanese manufacturer to do it
Really? Toyota?
Toyota finally won it.
Mazda is the only Japanese manufacturer using NO boost that has won Le Mans.
I ran my wrx on 16psi
boost is irrelevant hp is irrelevant maximum torque @ rpm is the limiting factor based on the combination a 5.3 that is barely ok with 500 ft lbs at 2000 rpm can handle 1200 ft lbs at 6000+ rpm so many (experts) talk about hp limits but that doesn’t tell you the low end torque that can scatter a motor that is only making 200 hp
a 5.3 ls with 30 lbs making 375 hp at 2000 rpm is not hard to do but will grenade instantlyso the idea of hp limit is nonsense
@@bill2178 Did you mean 1200hp at 6000 RPM? 1200 ft-lbs is not a realistic expectation, if you want that motor to live, regardless of the RPM.
Under 24 lbs