The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
Dyneema is amazing and its also pretty easy to do a brummel eye splice in which is way stronger than a knot and you dont have to worry about a knot slipping. If you do an eye splice you can then easily thread it through your pulleys without having to take them apart to get the rope through.
Very timely video. I just finished making my cables using ferrules. I did the first crimp with some hand pliers just to anchor the cable in place. I then finished the crimps using a vise.
Thank you so much for making this video. I had always wondered how your ropes had held up under heavy loads. Your cost effective, low space videos are incredibly valuable to the average home gym owner. If you have any ideas on a DIY reverse hyper... I've seen a few but would love to see you make it better.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve seen a handful of DIY reverse hypers, some stand alone, some rack mounted, and I’m honestly not sure if I have much to add to those designs. I’ll revisit the idea and see if I can come up with anything.
Former paratrooper and Rappel Master here... just some FYI for you. In the Army, paracord is officially called "Type-3 Nylon" and commonly referred to as 550 cord (five-fifty cord) because its tensile strength is 550 pounds.
If you are using rope and want to use metal thimbles type "knot for metal thimble" into the search box. Or depending on the type of rope you could use a splice but that is more involved. I still favor static climbing rope myself as I said in your other video and I am able to buy it by the foot at my local REI store and prepackaged. In a home setting with good rope it's not clear that you need metal thimbles but you may like the look. I just tie to carabineers (REI) use a knot climbers use, there are several. Everything you use should be rated.
How to tie a scaffold knot: m.ua-cam.com/video/M9IS9HPk1Ds/v-deo.html You need to tie it correctly! It is supposed to tighten like a noose and can be used with a metal thimble or a carabiner.
My understanding is that crimping over the vinyl is a mistake. The cable should be stripped so the ferrule bites into the steel strands. The ferrules are a very close fit on the bare wire, so to go over the vinyl, you have to size up. The combination of oversized ferrules that are over the vinyl puts you at risk of a slipped crimp. This might be lower risk for a few hundred pounds on a weight pin in your gym. For a heavy working load, catastrophic crimp failure is a serious possibility.
This is actually the 2nd time I've heard this since posting the video. It might warrant a follow up video. So far my cables are holding up but I'll definitely post if anything changes.
As someone who has studied engineering, this is absolutely 100% correct. When you swage a steel rope you effectively cold weld the ferrule to the rope. This ensures maximum strength for the given diameter of the rope and also ensures maximum safety for you as whoever it is who is using the rope to lift heavy objects. A sudden opening of the ferrule and freeing of the rope under heavy loads can be catastrophic and lead to potential eye injuries and other whip injuries from the forceful recoil of the rope, foot/toe/limb/other injuries from the heavy load falling upon you.
Vinyl coated wire rope is what you get at hardware stores, it's not what gym equipment manufacturers use. They use nylon coated wire rope, which is what kaizen shows near the end (he calls it vinyl, but it's nylon). Both are fine from a functional perspective, but the black nylon looks better since it's what OEMs use.
Ever come across a vinyl/nylon coated wire that sounds 'crunchy'? When its turning along the pulley, or if I bend it in my hand, the wires inside make noises. So its not silent. I thought it was weird.
@@KaizenDIYGym Good to know. Its supposedly new (from Amazon) so I'll try to replace it since its a little off-putting, made me think there was something wrong with my pulleys or I was getting friction from somewhere else.
Hey I wann use a diy cable pulley system too But I just need a rack Can you recommend me pls a rack wjich is available in Germany ? Does it have to be a wall rack or could it be just a normal cage rack For example from atletica r4 series?
Great video! Straight to the point on so many options. Loved the clip of the falling climber as well, that's got to be scary af. I went the vinyl coated route. I've read that you want to strip the vinyl off the end where you are adding the ferrule. When you crimp the ferrule, I believe that the wires fuse with the ferrule creating a break strength of 90% of the wire. This is all stuff I looked up, so not a professional by any means. Here is a video that I liked that explains some of that stuff. ua-cam.com/video/dlECTP3Qr0Q/v-deo.html
@@KaizenDIYGym Even more terrifying is the loss of an eye or having half of one's face torn off, or even a fatal injury (cutting an artery), by the sudden and brutal recoil of a steel rope under a particularly heavy load. As someone who knows enough about engineering, I would assure anyone here that placing the crimp over vinyl is a foolish mistake that is often made without aforethought to the fact that steel rope needs to be cold welded with the ferrule. Another one is that you should never, and I mean ever, use anything made of copper if you are swaging galvanised steel rope. Never use anything with copper with galvanised steel. Ever. For stainless steel copper is fine, but galvanised steel will create a chemical reaction, causing corrosion and ultimately failure of the weld, leading to breakage of the steel rope.
Before crimping it's important to check if the pulleys are removable. If they aren't and there isn't space to thread cable through, you'll have wasted wire cable. Also don't go super thick with wire cable, it's definitely reassuring knowing the cable won't break but thicker cables have less flexibility so it won't bend as easily around small pulleys and will feel horrible and stiff. For 90mm pulley I would say go 3-4mm thick, it should hold more than enough while feeling smooth.
@@AexoeroV I would say yes. For my setup at least, I would say 90mm is the minimum size for 3-4mm wire. If you have more pulleys to redirect the wire through a gentler curve it should handle it, or possibly have them spaced further apart but these will affect overall cost or size of your final product. The cable I used is a 7x19 configuration - 19 threads wound together into 1 larger thread, and with an additional 6 others wound together). There are definitely more flexible ones out there with the same diameter but I can't comment on their performance. But for 7x19, I personally would have the pulleys around 90mm at least. If you are able to take the pulley out and actually have your hands on to the wire, drape the wire horizontally over the top of the pulley and see how fits. If it's stiff it'll stay fairly horizontal. If gravity and a small amount of tension can allow you to fit it around the pulleys radius, you should be good.
@@JohnSmith-ox7xc Thanks for your reply, the system i want to build will consist of 2 pulleys for lat pull downs and triceps exercises, in this instance the pulleys will be like 1.3 meters apart. For low rows i will have a third pulley added. The wire i seen i can found is labeled as 6x7.
love your enthusiasm and honesty kyle, i do the same kinda stuff in my shed gym best gym iv ever been in because its tailored to me and self built , i can see your chanel getting huge you definitely are not the typical chanel trying to sell ads . love the community vibe
I just came across this video. As others said, you’re very much to the point and don’t spend a lot of time with unnecessary nonsense. That’s good. I have done some climbing and the first thing one learns is that climbing rope has a certain lifetime. I think about 5 years. It will most likely work for many more years, but climbers and other industrial people will retire the ropes after 5 years. I stick with steel cable, generally 3/16”. I crimp the ferrules on and I believe the strength rating is something in the thousands of pounds. I never thought ahead of time about getting those rubber ball stoppers. Now I’m wondering if I can get some for 3/16” cable.
I am a giant fan of outdoor training, get the sun in your face, but that rig alone is so expensive. Looking at other options I don’t think my dream rig would be cheap anyway. I would want one crossfit style/ninja warrior style, do it all. Adding rope climbs, wall balls, power rack, salmon ladder, rings, and monkey bars. Maybe one day soon I can make that a reality
Rather than needing or using a ferrule crimper i smash the F out of the ferrule with a hammer! The crimper's crimps looks more professional but the hammer is a useful and legendary tool! It works! And is cheaper!
@@KaizenDIYGym Imagine a Rogue bumper plate, how you can slide it on your bar so easily with no scratches, due to the plate's sleeve. Slide a regular standard olympic plate on your Rogue barbell and it's scrape city, so you have to put it on slow & careful....who has time for that?!?
@@KaizenDIYGym I see now your point, i have some ball bearing pulleys and i want to built a pulley system. The wheel of pulleys have a diameter of 48mm, do you think its too small for metal cables? Even for 1/8 cable? What about that climbing static rope, do you liked the dyneema better than the static rope? I need something with zero elasticity and i would love to get metal wires but if my pulleys are to small for the flexibility of a metal cable......
For an in depth look at DIY pulley systems, check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/BEPVXShJJ9I/v-deo.html
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
Dyneema is amazing and its also pretty easy to do a brummel eye splice in which is way stronger than a knot and you dont have to worry about a knot slipping.
If you do an eye splice you can then easily thread it through your pulleys without having to take them apart to get the rope through.
I love the effort you've put into testing these different options. Great job.
Awesome! I appreciate it. This one was a lot of work, I’m glad it shows!
Very timely video. I just finished making my cables using ferrules. I did the first crimp with some hand pliers just to anchor the cable in place. I then finished the crimps using a vise.
Nice! I was surprised at how easy it was.
Thank you so much for making this video. I had always wondered how your ropes had held up under heavy loads. Your cost effective, low space videos are incredibly valuable to the average home gym owner. If you have any ideas on a DIY reverse hyper... I've seen a few but would love to see you make it better.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve seen a handful of DIY reverse hypers, some stand alone, some rack mounted, and I’m honestly not sure if I have much to add to those designs. I’ll revisit the idea and see if I can come up with anything.
That was an awesome in-depth breakdown of a DIY pulley system. Thanks for taking that time.
Thanks for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for exploring these!!!
It was fun to research this one. I’m glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the information. What is the best knot to use for the rope options?
Former paratrooper and Rappel Master here... just some FYI for you.
In the Army, paracord is officially called "Type-3 Nylon" and commonly referred to as 550 cord (five-fifty cord) because its tensile strength is 550 pounds.
Awesome, thanks for the info!
If you are using rope and want to use metal thimbles type "knot for metal thimble" into the search box.
Or depending on the type of rope you could use a splice but that is more involved.
I still favor static climbing rope myself as I said in your other video and I am able to buy it by the foot at my local REI store and prepackaged.
In a home setting with good rope it's not clear that you need metal thimbles but you may like the look. I just tie to carabineers (REI) use a knot climbers use, there are several.
Everything you use should be rated.
How to tie a scaffold knot:
m.ua-cam.com/video/M9IS9HPk1Ds/v-deo.html
You need to tie it correctly!
It is supposed to tighten like a noose and can be used with a metal thimble or a carabiner.
Awesome! This is super helpful. Thanks for sharing your insights!
My understanding is that crimping over the vinyl is a mistake. The cable should be stripped so the ferrule bites into the steel strands. The ferrules are a very close fit on the bare wire, so to go over the vinyl, you have to size up. The combination of oversized ferrules that are over the vinyl puts you at risk of a slipped crimp.
This might be lower risk for a few hundred pounds on a weight pin in your gym. For a heavy working load, catastrophic crimp failure is a serious possibility.
This is actually the 2nd time I've heard this since posting the video. It might warrant a follow up video. So far my cables are holding up but I'll definitely post if anything changes.
As someone who has studied engineering, this is absolutely 100% correct. When you swage a steel rope you effectively cold weld the ferrule to the rope. This ensures maximum strength for the given diameter of the rope and also ensures maximum safety for you as whoever it is who is using the rope to lift heavy objects. A sudden opening of the ferrule and freeing of the rope under heavy loads can be catastrophic and lead to potential eye injuries and other whip injuries from the forceful recoil of the rope, foot/toe/limb/other injuries from the heavy load falling upon you.
Vinyl coated wire rope is what you get at hardware stores, it's not what gym equipment manufacturers use. They use nylon coated wire rope, which is what kaizen shows near the end (he calls it vinyl, but it's nylon). Both are fine from a functional perspective, but the black nylon looks better since it's what OEMs use.
Thanks for the clarification!
@@KaizenDIYGym Thanks for the deep dive on rope options. It's awesome that you caught the paracord fail on video!
You can cover the Ferrels with shrink tubing for an even better professional look.
Good call!
Thanks for the video 💪
Thanks for watching!
What knot do you recommend for the polyester rope?
Take a look at the scaffold knot or other similar climbing knots
Sick broooo
Cable can also be cut with a chisel and hammer, if you happen to own a chisel
That’s interesting, I didn’t know! Thanks for sharing.
hi, enjoy your videos, What is the lat pull device and handles you are using at 4m25s in the video? I would like something like that.
The GymPin d-bar handle and Angles90 grips. You can get them from GymPin (www.gym-pin.co.uk)
Ever come across a vinyl/nylon coated wire that sounds 'crunchy'? When its turning along the pulley, or if I bend it in my hand, the wires inside make noises. So its not silent. I thought it was weird.
Yes, I have heard the crunchy sound. I think that happens over time when the vinyl coating starts to age and dry out.
@@KaizenDIYGym Good to know. Its supposedly new (from Amazon) so I'll try to replace it since its a little off-putting, made me think there was something wrong with my pulleys or I was getting friction from somewhere else.
Do you have any DIY options for the gym pin attachment bar?
Check out Peej on the Design Build Lift UA-cam channel. He did one recently.
Hey I wann use a diy cable pulley system too
But I just need a rack
Can you recommend me pls a rack wjich is available in Germany ?
Does it have to be a wall rack or could it be just a normal cage rack
For example from atletica r4 series?
The diy cable pulley can work on any rack! I hear that ATX sells god quality equipment in Europe as well.
So deep 😅
Pretty much the deepest ever
Great video! Straight to the point on so many options. Loved the clip of the falling climber as well, that's got to be scary af. I went the vinyl coated route. I've read that you want to strip the vinyl off the end where you are adding the ferrule. When you crimp the ferrule, I believe that the wires fuse with the ferrule creating a break strength of 90% of the wire. This is all stuff I looked up, so not a professional by any means. Here is a video that I liked that explains some of that stuff. ua-cam.com/video/dlECTP3Qr0Q/v-deo.html
Awesome, glad you enjoyed the video. That clip of the climber falling scares me every time. Terrifying!
@@KaizenDIYGym Even more terrifying is the loss of an eye or having half of one's face torn off, or even a fatal injury (cutting an artery), by the sudden and brutal recoil of a steel rope under a particularly heavy load. As someone who knows enough about engineering, I would assure anyone here that placing the crimp over vinyl is a foolish mistake that is often made without aforethought to the fact that steel rope needs to be cold welded with the ferrule.
Another one is that you should never, and I mean ever, use anything made of copper if you are swaging galvanised steel rope. Never use anything with copper with galvanised steel. Ever. For stainless steel copper is fine, but galvanised steel will create a chemical reaction, causing corrosion and ultimately failure of the weld, leading to breakage of the steel rope.
Anyone tried winch cable/rope?
I haven’t but I’d be interested in check it out
Iam sorry I broke the 666 likes on this video.
Before crimping it's important to check if the pulleys are removable. If they aren't and there isn't space to thread cable through, you'll have wasted wire cable. Also don't go super thick with wire cable, it's definitely reassuring knowing the cable won't break but thicker cables have less flexibility so it won't bend as easily around small pulleys and will feel horrible and stiff. For 90mm pulley I would say go 3-4mm thick, it should hold more than enough while feeling smooth.
You make some good points
Hey, is a 48mm ball bearing pulley too small for a 3-5mm wire cable?
@@AexoeroV I would say yes. For my setup at least, I would say 90mm is the minimum size for 3-4mm wire. If you have more pulleys to redirect the wire through a gentler curve it should handle it, or possibly have them spaced further apart but these will affect overall cost or size of your final product. The cable I used is a 7x19 configuration - 19 threads wound together into 1 larger thread, and with an additional 6 others wound together). There are definitely more flexible ones out there with the same diameter but I can't comment on their performance. But for 7x19, I personally would have the pulleys around 90mm at least.
If you are able to take the pulley out and actually have your hands on to the wire, drape the wire horizontally over the top of the pulley and see how fits. If it's stiff it'll stay fairly horizontal. If gravity and a small amount of tension can allow you to fit it around the pulleys radius, you should be good.
@@JohnSmith-ox7xc Thanks for your reply, the system i want to build will consist of 2 pulleys for lat pull downs and triceps exercises, in this instance the pulleys will be like 1.3 meters apart. For low rows i will have a third pulley added. The wire i seen i can found is labeled as 6x7.
love your enthusiasm and honesty kyle, i do the same kinda stuff in my shed gym best gym iv ever been in because its tailored to me and self built , i can see your chanel getting huge you definitely are not the typical chanel trying to sell ads . love the community vibe
Thank you so much! DIY stuff is great for the ability to be able to customize. I bet your gym is awesome.
This man really is for the community. Thank you
Thanks! It is super fulfilling to hear this sentiment after the hours I pour into each video. I really appreciate the support.
I just came across this video. As others said, you’re very much to the point and don’t spend a lot of time with unnecessary nonsense. That’s good. I have done some climbing and the first thing one learns is that climbing rope has a certain lifetime. I think about 5 years. It will most likely work for many more years, but climbers and other industrial people will retire the ropes after 5 years. I stick with steel cable, generally 3/16”. I crimp the ferrules on and I believe the strength rating is something in the thousands of pounds. I never thought ahead of time about getting those rubber ball stoppers. Now I’m wondering if I can get some for 3/16” cable.
Hey, thanks for watching! Those ball stoppers come in a variety of sizes.
I am a giant fan of outdoor training, get the sun in your face, but that rig alone is so expensive. Looking at other options I don’t think my dream rig would be cheap anyway. I would want one crossfit style/ninja warrior style, do it all. Adding rope climbs, wall balls, power rack, salmon ladder, rings, and monkey bars. Maybe one day soon I can make that a reality
Sounds amazing
Rather than needing or using a ferrule crimper i smash the F out of the ferrule with a hammer!
The crimper's crimps looks more professional but the hammer is a useful and legendary tool! It works! And is cheaper!
That’s a good point. The hammer is classic
That guy almost falling off that mountain had me laughing so hard well done!
Made my heart skip a beat every time I watched it. Craziness
Please create a hack for putting a sliding sleeve / ring insert onto an olympic plate!!
I’m having a hard time visualizing what you’re talking about
@@KaizenDIYGym Imagine a Rogue bumper plate, how you can slide it on your bar so easily with no scratches, due to the plate's sleeve. Slide a regular standard olympic plate on your Rogue barbell and it's scrape city, so you have to put it on slow & careful....who has time for that?!?
I see what you mean. I haven't seen anything like that but I'll keep my eyes out.
What low pulley wheel are you using..I can’t find one that will keep my tension good on my low pull exercises
Also what did you attach it to
Which low pulley are you talking about?
Hey, ar 1:43 why do you say that those little pulleys aren't great for wire/metal cables? Those are ball bearing pulleys?
Metal cables need a pulley wheel with a larger diameter because metal cables are less flexible.
@@KaizenDIYGym I see now your point, i have some ball bearing pulleys and i want to built a pulley system. The wheel of pulleys have a diameter of 48mm, do you think its too small for metal cables? Even for 1/8 cable? What about that climbing static rope, do you liked the dyneema better than the static rope? I need something with zero elasticity and i would love to get metal wires but if my pulleys are to small for the flexibility of a metal cable......
Dyneema and the climbing rope were both great options with little to no elasticity. The 48mm pulley wheel might work with the metal cable.
awesome info
Awesome, glad you enjoyed it!
I need a shirt that says Kaizen DIY GYM in the youtube channel design @KaizenDIYGYM
I need that too!