I think you're finding out that all RVs are built like crap and corners are cut everywhere. Whether you spent 20k or 200k you need to become handy if you own an RV. You will be fixing things constantly and for the most part your warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on. That being said I enjoy the content and the Micro Minnie is on my shortlist for the next RV.
Mr. Bandit, thank you for the kind words. I’m still learning and developing and trying to do better with the videos, but thank you just the same. Re: corners being cut and so on, I think I fall somewhere in between. I’ve seen a lot of little construction decisions which I don’t personally agree with, but Winnebago compared to other brands seems to be doing a LOT of things significantly better, namely quality of construction. That’s not to say there are significant opportunities for improvement (e.g., use of staples versus screws), but this appears to be a significant misstep for a couple reasons in my opinion.
I liked your video. We are picking up a used 2022 Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX 2108TB on Thursday. I forwarded a link to video to them stressing that I will need a satisfactory reply / fix to close this deal. The dealer said they’d remove the panel for me to show me it has been fixed or that a repair would be required. My inspection is scheduled before payment and licensing to make sure we’re happy. This was the dealer’s suggestion. I’ll keep you posted if you wish.
Congrats on the purchase. Re: a fix - there are always multiple ways to do something. Generally speaking, I would ensure it doesn’t have any bends within 10cm of the heater outlet (as per Truma’s installation requirements) and to affix the heater conduit to the outlet of the heater to prevent it from being dislodged creating the positive-feedback heat-trapping scenario I experienced. Absolutely! Keep me in the loop please.
Thanks. I watched another video by Living with Rob. He has the same year as mine, 2022. He was writing about the Truma error code caused by the furnace overheating. When he removes the front panel, the vent pipe is straight and attached at the furnace end and not at the vent cover. In other words, he doesn’t have the bent vent hose like yours. I think your hose was installed improperly. You might want to look at his channel. He has a lot of videos about fixes and mods he’s made to his Micro Minnie FLX edition.
I talked to a Truma tech yesterday and got some great information on fixing the VarioHeat installation also ordered ducting and fittings. Also sent a message to Winnebago and asked them to contact me to talk about the issue I found. It is looking like I will need to move the sink drain pipes to get more room in the compartment.
I was just about to comment about your use of “normal” but I see you caught that too (lol). Honestly, that’s really unfortunate to hear but I sincerely appreciate you commenting.
I dig it bro great info my take away is this never ever let them know you took something off just say opps it fell off and why is not manufactured specs?😂 Second the ideas of installing a proper return air are very viable I totally get it hood luck please keep us posted bro 😎
Hey, thanks for taking the time to comment. Both I and the UA-cam algorithm gods appreciate it. lol Yeah, this was a difficult video to create because I was trying to stick to the facts, not anger Winnebago, but also promote them to address this because it’s my number one complaint about the trailer. I do agree though, I actually think it should be very easy to ‘fix’, but problem is the only adapter Truma has for the Varioheat is a dual 80mm Y-piece and the underbelly doesn’t need (nor can it handle) that kind of airflow. I desperately want to 3D print a piece which is an 80mm and 40mm Y-piece but my 3D print friend said he’s too busy to help with the project. My plan is to make the file available for free for subscribers. Anyway, thanks again for the kind words. I honestly appreciate it. If it’s not too much to ask, if you aren’t already subscribed, please consider doing so. When I approach businesses to work with, that’s all they look at. I disagree because there are much better metrics and factors to consider, but so many media managers don’t seem to get it. :)
After watching your video on this last night I checked our 2022 2108FBS FLX and found that the furnace vent hose is attached to the furnace but not attached to the duct vent. Same as you, the distance between the furnace and combustibles does not meet Truma installation specs, so left panel cover off.
Thanks for following-up Bob! I’m going to send another e-mail to Winnebago today for documentation purposes. It would be my strong suggestion for you to do the same. Even though we are both outside the warranty period, my hope would be if enough customers are experiencing the same issue, Winnebago might offer a solution.
I was able to find the Australian version of the Truma Varioheat installation manual. It requires 150 cubic cm for cold air return, which the open area under the furnace does not meet. It is also too close to the heat vent as there is supposed to be .3 m separation. I am going to look at a way to reposition the heater. The propane line is flexible with slack as is the power and exhaust. The installation manual also provides numerous mounting options. On our 2108FBS the sink drain pipe precludes changing the orientation 90 degrees but it may be possible to mount the heater diagonally and horizontally in the space or lower the platform that the heater is mounted on to just above the water lines below. That may allow mounting the heater on its side and diagonally with the cold air intake on the bottom and possibly allow room for a Y to vent warm air down to the under floor and out into the room. I will keep messing with it and let you know. It was also my assumption, and I am pretty sure I read, that the sub floor was heated.
Rather frustratingly, the non-FLX is reported to have two (2) outlets from the furnace, one of which into the enclosed underbelly. That’s an amazing catch re: the cold air return being too close to the heat outlet. That said, I’m already planning to install a cold air return from the bathroom under the shower as soon as I can find a vent the correct size. This will both act as a cold air return as well as circulate air otherwise trapped under the shower which has two (2) exterior walls and is also where the water lines for the kitchen sink run thus reducing the likelihood of freezing. Re: reorienting the Varioheat, I’m planning to remount it at 45˚ and ‘flip’ the panel 180˚, thus positioning the heat duct further forward. This will allow for a custom 45˚ elbow and secondary (smaller) duct into the enclosed underbelly.
Well, not being one to wait, I dived in and pulled the VarioHeat out. Likely a good thing I did since I found that the inner metal exhaust hose was not fully seated on the exhaust pipe so hot exhaust was mixing with incoming cool air. Pretty easy fix. I removed the plywood platform that the heater was mounted on to see if there was enough room to mount the unit on its side, I would need to install another plywood platform over the water lines to do this, not sure there is enough room. I also looked at mounting the heater to the top of the compartment on the base of the refrigerator with the venting facing toward the sink. This seems like it may work. Cold air ducting could go to the bathroom and hot air ducting could be Y-ed or T-ed with one going out under the refrigerator and another down to protect the plumbing maybe even branch for another duct to exit near the front door. I will get back to it tomorrow. Also, I did find another propane line under the stovetop area that I suspect was intended to supply propane to the non-FLX refrigerator. If all else fails, I’ll just put everything back as it was, mostly…
I applaud your get-to-it-ness! lol I assume you're in a warm location; it'll be -20*C here in Alberta this week and lying on the floor of a cold trailer is less than desirable. lol. That's a great catch on the exhaust conduit not being affixed properly! I’m hoping to have the 3D printed parts within the next month because I really want to do a couple ski trips in it. :D
In my rig, the duct was fine. The register I installed you referenced did not cure the error code. It did, however, make the bathroom less frigid and did pull air through and under the shower. After spending significant time on the phone with Truma, we deduced that it's normal behavior for the unit. The code simply is advising you it's going into cool down mode (hence the increased air velocity during the code). That said, the design of the heating and ducting is horrible in my view AND experience with the Winnebago FLX...especially only one duct AND no ducting to under belly. Rest assured, according to Truma, the advisory code is normal. However your bent duct is most certainly problematic and other FLX users should check their units as well. Good video. Well documented and explained.
I just checked my 2024 FLX which we purchased in May. I looked through the vent with a flashlight and it is also off center by several inches. There are 1/4 inch gaps where the tube connects to both the heater and the vent because it isn’t attached straight. I saw LivingwithRob’s video and his is straight. I haven’t been able to check how the airflow feels because it is so hot outside the unit doesn’t turn on.
I think a good camper review today, knowing what we all know about quality manufacturing. The reviewer will look at a camper and try to decide if the bones of that camper are worth repairing, and we would buy that camper with the full understanding that we’re gonna have to make improvements from top to bottom.
i'm sorry you bought a Winnebago. as a 4 year owner of one i find them to be cheap garbage in general, all of their gimmicks are junk. mine leaked at every fitting after purchase but it also allowed me to see all the problems within. my heater wasn't even taped properly. if your from Canada why not get a decent Canadian trailer? be careful about that particle board table all the screws will pop out with any weight and remove those seat side pads they will rip out after you get in and out a few times. welcome to winnehell.
Hey, first and foremost, that sucks to hear you had such a poor experience. Aside from the heater ducting being installed poorly and poor aftersales support both at the dealer level as well as manufacturer, I’ve actually found the build quality to be excellent. It’s absolutely no excuse, but I’ve heard a lot about ‘COVID’ trailers and if you’ve had yours for four (4) years, that would fall right in that period. Re: Canadian trailers - I’m only aware of one brand, and they don’t make any product I’m interested in. Believe it or not, right now if I was to get another trailer it would be the exact same one. Are there things I would like to see done differently in terms of features, absolutely. …but I knew at the beginning of my journey no trailer would be perfect, so this is about as close as I could get to it. Out of curiosity, if you were to get another trailer today, which brand would it be and why?
@@GREYWOLFrv escape comes to mind and oliver down here both of which ive seen in person, however all travel trailers are hot potatoes. to me they're all junk to some degree they must balance weight and profitability and not to the consumers favor. the most successful livable units without constant fixes and problems are DIY utility trailers and sheep camp vardos also some schoolies if they are done to a high level age well from what i have seen in the desert. your micro mini will not age well on the interior, the surfaces peel and scuff easily to say the least. i have been looking at others like the grey wolf which is actually a lower end trailer but its a few feet longer and has bigger tankage but i'm under no illusion that any other trailer won't be more of the same. i do believe in the halfton truck and trailer combo as the best answer to my living in the desert for 6 months in winter. good luck with your choice, i'm not sorry i did this in the long run. its been a good trip overall.
Someone told me you’ll run out of water before you run out of anything else. With exception to running out of battery using the air conditioner (lol), water - gosh that’s the limiting factor for sure. Interestingly, I’ve done some sleuthing and it seems there might actually be enough room in the underbelly for a second fresh water tank. That’s something I’m VERY interested in adding. At the same time, I was watching a video this morning talking about a trailer with an 18-gallon black tank and it got me thinking, why do trailers have such large black tanks? I’ll likely go through ten (10) fresh water tanks before I ever fill a black tank. Tangential to our conversation, yes, but I’ve been thinking about that today. (lol). I’ll be sure to keep an eye on things delaminating but when you store your trailer, do you put any desiccant inside? The owner of the place I store my trailer is a boat guy and he puts desiccant inside his RV/camper trailers just like he does his boats. It lowers the humidity and thus resists delaminating, MDF swelling, mildew, all the things.
@@GREYWOLFrv i don't store i bring back north to my property and its used as a guest apartment. It's fully hooked up then. the perfect tankage for me would be 50 fresh 50 grey and 40 black for a month of boondocking. this assumes of course drinking water separately and pissing outside most of the time. this is the way it is for thousands of winter desert dwellers. of course one could dump and fill weekly at places with easy and close access to service like quartsite and imperial dam.
Yeah, if it’s a matter of fixing the ducting it will be quite simple but, in my case, I would need a new wood panel at the front because the hole isn’t aligned with the heater. However, as mentioned, for me, having a heated underbelly is SUPER important so that’s unfortunately making the situation a lot more complicated.
Has Winnebago decided to add a heated underbelly and changing the location of the thermostat? In the meantime, while this is 6 months after your posting a screen could be used over the opening to prevent anything from accidently entering the furnace area.
@@mollyflanagan5512 No, unfortunately Winnebago has not added any heated underbelly to the FLX and the thermostat remains in the same place. In fact, I was just in a 2025 2108 non-FLX and it appeared identical with exception to a different stove which doesn’t have illuminated knobs, but Winnebago customer service did tell me a few months ago they’re using a different model which does, so perhaps the one I was in was an early production 2025. Re: the screen, that’s a fair suggestion. I’m actually going to be ordering some components to do add a second heat duct as well as a friend is helping design an adapter.
I’m honestly not sure one way or the other to be honest because another Micro Minnie FLX owner commented and said their conduit was connected properly. So this could be a quality control issue, I’m not sure.
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work. I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package. I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems… I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support) Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy… I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that. Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work. I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package. I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems… I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support) Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy… I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that. Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work. I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package. I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems… I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support) Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy… I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that. Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
I think a good camper review today, knowing what we all know about quality manufacturing. The reviewer will look at a camper and try to decide if the bones of that camper are worth repairing, and we would buy that camper with the full understanding that we’re gonna have to make improvements from top to bottom.
I 100% agree; I did exactly this when I was deciding if I was going to keep the Winnebago or not (I discussed this a bit in the opening of the ‘First Off-Grid Trip’ video. That said, I’m going to continue to be vocal that consumers shouldn’t have to assume poor quality. I fully acknowledge no trailer is going to be perfect in terms of design and features, but there’s no excuse for poor craftsmanship.
I think you're finding out that all RVs are built like crap and corners are cut everywhere. Whether you spent 20k or 200k you need to become handy if you own an RV. You will be fixing things constantly and for the most part your warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on. That being said I enjoy the content and the Micro Minnie is on my shortlist for the next RV.
Mr. Bandit, thank you for the kind words. I’m still learning and developing and trying to do better with the videos, but thank you just the same. Re: corners being cut and so on, I think I fall somewhere in between. I’ve seen a lot of little construction decisions which I don’t personally agree with, but Winnebago compared to other brands seems to be doing a LOT of things significantly better, namely quality of construction. That’s not to say there are significant opportunities for improvement (e.g., use of staples versus screws), but this appears to be a significant misstep for a couple reasons in my opinion.
I liked your video. We are picking up a used 2022 Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX 2108TB on Thursday. I forwarded a link to video to them stressing that I will need a satisfactory reply / fix to close this deal. The dealer said they’d remove the panel for me to show me it has been fixed or that a repair would be required. My inspection is scheduled before payment and licensing to make sure we’re happy. This was the dealer’s suggestion. I’ll keep you posted if you wish.
Congrats on the purchase. Re: a fix - there are always multiple ways to do something. Generally speaking, I would ensure it doesn’t have any bends within 10cm of the heater outlet (as per Truma’s installation requirements) and to affix the heater conduit to the outlet of the heater to prevent it from being dislodged creating the positive-feedback heat-trapping scenario I experienced. Absolutely! Keep me in the loop please.
Thanks. I watched another video by Living with Rob. He has the same year as mine, 2022. He was writing about the Truma error code caused by the furnace overheating. When he removes the front panel, the vent pipe is straight and attached at the furnace end and not at the vent cover. In other words, he doesn’t have the bent vent hose like yours. I think your hose was installed improperly. You might want to look at his channel. He has a lot of videos about fixes and mods he’s made to his Micro Minnie FLX edition.
I talked to a Truma tech yesterday and got some great information on fixing the VarioHeat installation also ordered ducting and fittings. Also sent a message to Winnebago and asked them to contact me to talk about the issue I found. It is looking like I will need to move the sink drain pipes to get more room in the compartment.
Which fittings did you go with? The 75mm to dual 75mm Y-piece?
@@GREYWOLFrvTwo 80mm Y with the two branches 80mm, a swivel vent for a new vent near the door and 4m of 80mm.
As a dealer technician who primarily does warranty work, this is completely normal from 75% if all manufacturers making travel trailers today.
Not safe, but normal from the manufacturer.
I was just about to comment about your use of “normal” but I see you caught that too (lol). Honestly, that’s really unfortunate to hear but I sincerely appreciate you commenting.
I dig it bro great info my take away is this never ever let them know you took something off just say opps it fell off and why is not manufactured specs?😂 Second the ideas of installing a proper return air are very viable I totally get it hood luck please keep us posted bro 😎
Hey, thanks for taking the time to comment. Both I and the UA-cam algorithm gods appreciate it. lol
Yeah, this was a difficult video to create because I was trying to stick to the facts, not anger Winnebago, but also promote them to address this because it’s my number one complaint about the trailer.
I do agree though, I actually think it should be very easy to ‘fix’, but problem is the only adapter Truma has for the Varioheat is a dual 80mm Y-piece and the underbelly doesn’t need (nor can it handle) that kind of airflow. I desperately want to 3D print a piece which is an 80mm and 40mm Y-piece but my 3D print friend said he’s too busy to help with the project. My plan is to make the file available for free for subscribers.
Anyway, thanks again for the kind words. I honestly appreciate it. If it’s not too much to ask, if you aren’t already subscribed, please consider doing so. When I approach businesses to work with, that’s all they look at. I disagree because there are much better metrics and factors to consider, but so many media managers don’t seem to get it. :)
@@GREYWOLFrv I appreciate you are trying to protect the Manufacturers in a calm / peaceful manner only wanting a resolve to a problem 😀Hello World
After watching your video on this last night I checked our 2022 2108FBS FLX and found that the furnace vent hose is attached to the furnace but not attached to the duct vent. Same as you, the distance between the furnace and combustibles does not meet Truma installation specs, so left panel cover off.
Thanks for following-up Bob! I’m going to send another e-mail to Winnebago today for documentation purposes. It would be my strong suggestion for you to do the same. Even though we are both outside the warranty period, my hope would be if enough customers are experiencing the same issue, Winnebago might offer a solution.
I was able to find the Australian version of the Truma Varioheat installation manual. It requires 150 cubic cm for cold air return, which the open area under the furnace does not meet. It is also too close to the heat vent as there is supposed to be .3 m separation. I am going to look at a way to reposition the heater. The propane line is flexible with slack as is the power and exhaust. The installation manual also provides numerous mounting options. On our 2108FBS the sink drain pipe precludes changing the orientation 90 degrees but it may be possible to mount the heater diagonally and horizontally in the space or lower the platform that the heater is mounted on to just above the water lines below. That may allow mounting the heater on its side and diagonally with the cold air intake on the bottom and possibly allow room for a Y to vent warm air down to the under floor and out into the room. I will keep messing with it and let you know. It was also my assumption, and I am pretty sure I read, that the sub floor was heated.
Rather frustratingly, the non-FLX is reported to have two (2) outlets from the furnace, one of which into the enclosed underbelly.
That’s an amazing catch re: the cold air return being too close to the heat outlet. That said, I’m already planning to install a cold air return from the bathroom under the shower as soon as I can find a vent the correct size. This will both act as a cold air return as well as circulate air otherwise trapped under the shower which has two (2) exterior walls and is also where the water lines for the kitchen sink run thus reducing the likelihood of freezing.
Re: reorienting the Varioheat, I’m planning to remount it at 45˚ and ‘flip’ the panel 180˚, thus positioning the heat duct further forward. This will allow for a custom 45˚ elbow and secondary (smaller) duct into the enclosed underbelly.
Well, not being one to wait, I dived in and pulled the VarioHeat out. Likely a good thing I did since I found that the inner metal exhaust hose was not fully seated on the exhaust pipe so hot exhaust was mixing with incoming cool air. Pretty easy fix. I removed the plywood platform that the heater was mounted on to see if there was enough room to mount the unit on its side, I would need to install another plywood platform over the water lines to do this, not sure there is enough room. I also looked at mounting the heater to the top of the compartment on the base of the refrigerator with the venting facing toward the sink. This seems like it may work. Cold air ducting could go to the bathroom and hot air ducting could be Y-ed or T-ed with one going out under the refrigerator and another down to protect the plumbing maybe even branch for another duct to exit near the front door. I will get back to it tomorrow. Also, I did find another propane line under the stovetop area that I suspect was intended to supply propane to the non-FLX refrigerator. If all else fails, I’ll just put everything back as it was, mostly…
I applaud your get-to-it-ness! lol I assume you're in a warm location; it'll be -20*C here in Alberta this week and lying on the floor of a cold trailer is less than desirable. lol.
That's a great catch on the exhaust conduit not being affixed properly!
I’m hoping to have the 3D printed parts within the next month because I really want to do a couple ski trips in it. :D
In my rig, the duct was fine. The register I installed you referenced did not cure the error code.
It did, however, make the bathroom less frigid and did pull air through and under the shower.
After spending significant time on the phone with Truma, we deduced that it's normal behavior for the unit. The code simply is advising you it's going into cool down mode (hence the increased air velocity during the code).
That said, the design of the heating and ducting is horrible in my view AND experience with the Winnebago FLX...especially only one duct AND no ducting to under belly.
Rest assured, according to Truma, the advisory code is normal.
However your bent duct is most certainly problematic and other FLX users should check their units as well.
Good video. Well documented and explained.
Thank you very much.
I just checked my 2024 FLX which we purchased in May. I looked through the vent with a flashlight and it is also off center by several inches. There are 1/4 inch gaps where the tube connects to both the heater and the vent because it isn’t attached straight. I saw LivingwithRob’s video and his is straight. I haven’t been able to check how the airflow feels because it is so hot outside the unit doesn’t turn on.
I think a good camper review today, knowing what we all know about quality manufacturing. The reviewer will look at a camper and try to decide if the bones of that camper are worth repairing, and we would buy that camper with the full understanding that we’re gonna have to make improvements from top to bottom.
i'm sorry you bought a Winnebago. as a 4 year owner of one i find them to be cheap garbage in general, all of their gimmicks are junk. mine leaked at every fitting after purchase but it also allowed me to see all the problems within. my heater wasn't even taped properly. if your from Canada why not get a decent Canadian trailer? be careful about that particle board table all the screws will pop out with any weight and remove those seat side pads they will rip out after you get in and out a few times. welcome to winnehell.
Hey, first and foremost, that sucks to hear you had such a poor experience. Aside from the heater ducting being installed poorly and poor aftersales support both at the dealer level as well as manufacturer, I’ve actually found the build quality to be excellent. It’s absolutely no excuse, but I’ve heard a lot about ‘COVID’ trailers and if you’ve had yours for four (4) years, that would fall right in that period.
Re: Canadian trailers - I’m only aware of one brand, and they don’t make any product I’m interested in. Believe it or not, right now if I was to get another trailer it would be the exact same one. Are there things I would like to see done differently in terms of features, absolutely. …but I knew at the beginning of my journey no trailer would be perfect, so this is about as close as I could get to it.
Out of curiosity, if you were to get another trailer today, which brand would it be and why?
@@GREYWOLFrv escape comes to mind and oliver down here both of which ive seen in person, however all travel trailers are hot potatoes. to me they're all junk to some degree they must balance weight and profitability and not to the consumers favor. the most successful livable units without constant fixes and problems are DIY utility trailers and sheep camp vardos also some schoolies if they are done to a high level age well from what i have seen in the desert. your micro mini will not age well on the interior, the surfaces peel and scuff easily to say the least. i have been looking at others like the grey wolf which is actually a lower end trailer but its a few feet longer and has bigger tankage but i'm under no illusion that any other trailer won't be more of the same. i do believe in the halfton truck and trailer combo as the best answer to my living in the desert for 6 months in winter. good luck with your choice, i'm not sorry i did this in the long run. its been a good trip overall.
Someone told me you’ll run out of water before you run out of anything else. With exception to running out of battery using the air conditioner (lol), water - gosh that’s the limiting factor for sure. Interestingly, I’ve done some sleuthing and it seems there might actually be enough room in the underbelly for a second fresh water tank. That’s something I’m VERY interested in adding. At the same time, I was watching a video this morning talking about a trailer with an 18-gallon black tank and it got me thinking, why do trailers have such large black tanks? I’ll likely go through ten (10) fresh water tanks before I ever fill a black tank. Tangential to our conversation, yes, but I’ve been thinking about that today. (lol).
I’ll be sure to keep an eye on things delaminating but when you store your trailer, do you put any desiccant inside? The owner of the place I store my trailer is a boat guy and he puts desiccant inside his RV/camper trailers just like he does his boats. It lowers the humidity and thus resists delaminating, MDF swelling, mildew, all the things.
@@GREYWOLFrv i don't store i bring back north to my property and its used as a guest apartment. It's fully hooked up then. the perfect tankage for me would be 50 fresh 50 grey and 40 black for a month of boondocking. this assumes of course drinking water separately and pissing outside most of the time. this is the way it is for thousands of winter desert dwellers. of course one could dump and fill weekly at places with easy and close access to service like quartsite and imperial dam.
Yes you are not seating on your favorite Starbucks using your precious Mac. The reality is all RVs are crappy made.
I'll just fix it myself! It doesn't look that complicated to fix.
Yeah, if it’s a matter of fixing the ducting it will be quite simple but, in my case, I would need a new wood panel at the front because the hole isn’t aligned with the heater. However, as mentioned, for me, having a heated underbelly is SUPER important so that’s unfortunately making the situation a lot more complicated.
Has Winnebago decided to add a heated underbelly and changing the location of the thermostat? In the meantime, while this is 6 months after your posting a screen could be used over the opening to prevent anything from accidently entering the furnace area.
@@mollyflanagan5512 No, unfortunately Winnebago has not added any heated underbelly to the FLX and the thermostat remains in the same place. In fact, I was just in a 2025 2108 non-FLX and it appeared identical with exception to a different stove which doesn’t have illuminated knobs, but Winnebago customer service did tell me a few months ago they’re using a different model which does, so perhaps the one I was in was an early production 2025.
Re: the screen, that’s a fair suggestion. I’m actually going to be ordering some components to do add a second heat duct as well as a friend is helping design an adapter.
The shame is they likely know this information is true. They play the long GAME with peoples lives.
I’m honestly not sure one way or the other to be honest because another Micro Minnie FLX owner commented and said their conduit was connected properly. So this could be a quality control issue, I’m not sure.
You’re not going to get anywhere with Winnebago… I tried for a year… feel on deaf ears. Good luck.
May I ask what you were trying to being to Winnebago’s attention?
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work.
I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package.
I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems…
I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support)
Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy…
I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that.
Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work.
I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package.
I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems…
I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support)
Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy…
I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that.
Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
@@GREYWOLFrv I built my own FLX before the FLX came out with a Micro Minnie, tons of videos on my channel about it. There were and still are TONS of customers getting sold these units with Zero help from Winnebago or the dealerships on how these units actually work.
I told them their FLX claims are false and gave them all the data on how to correctly talk about the FLX package.
I convinced a local dealership to borrow and FLX for 3 weeks to help with people on Facebook how to learn the FLX and all these systems…
I was going to be a “brand ambassador” but I wanted them to me lend me a FLX for longer to help all their unhappy customers… while in talks with them about this they started sending me unhappy customers so I could help explain to them how to use their FLX because they didn’t even know (which is why I needed an FLX (I live 3 hours from the factory) (not even for camping but just so I can learn the system 100% and make a owners manual or do videos support)
Anyway… after writing up the correct stats of what the FLX can actually do (not what their brochure says) and doing those customer service call to try help them all for free they told me I was too greedy…
I know the micro mini more than anyone else in this world and I believe the FLX is a good product but has zero Support and I was trying to help them with that.
Anyway I can tell you more over a phone call if you care
I think a good camper review today, knowing what we all know about quality manufacturing. The reviewer will look at a camper and try to decide if the bones of that camper are worth repairing, and we would buy that camper with the full understanding that we’re gonna have to make improvements from top to bottom.
I 100% agree; I did exactly this when I was deciding if I was going to keep the Winnebago or not (I discussed this a bit in the opening of the ‘First Off-Grid Trip’ video.
That said, I’m going to continue to be vocal that consumers shouldn’t have to assume poor quality. I fully acknowledge no trailer is going to be perfect in terms of design and features, but there’s no excuse for poor craftsmanship.