A 4.88 final drive upgrade is what gave me the the oomph i was looking for. Its more involved with the installation and proper shims. But its car feels more powerful with this mod. You can go 4.56 if you drive alot of highway driving. Also if you have a 2017-up manual with 4.3 fd then it might not be nesessary. If you look at the specs of the trd griffon86, its a 4.8 fd, lightened car ( about 300kg) and a good suspension and a good brake setup. They manage to lap tsukuba about the same time as a ferrari 458 on stockish 230+ hp. Also your not adding additional stress on your engine like a turbo or a superchager. Youll have the same engine reliability as stock.
Fuherious probably because there isn't as big of a difference since those models already have shortened FD. 4.3 to 4.5 or 4.8 isn't as big of a jump, probably not worth the trouble?
@@julian2011934 going 4.56 from 4.3 is a marginal improvement. 4% at best. Also the cost involve in changing your final drive for that amount of gain is on the high side. Youll still have a gain, but in my opinion its not worth it. You might not even feel it on day to day driving.
My modifications will be Tein z coilovers 17x7.5 5x100 +45 mags With 225/45/17 grippy tyres Ep8 break pads Upgraded end links Rear strut bar Things I've done so far Changed tail lights and and license plate cover haha
Not really necessary, All I’ve done power-wise is a 10psi turbo kit. I daily drive it and it’s hard to find E85 in the city. I’m at 277whp on pump gas with stock fuel pump etc. IMO plenty of power, just what the car needed. It’s been boosted for 55k+ miles and am still very happy with it. I couldn’t do a NA 86 anymore.
Scott Ryan depends on where you live... how accessible it is... temperatures... cuz E85 doesn’t like the cold... E85 can clog injectors if it sits to long...
DJ Dizzy I feel you, I’m n/a But not everyone wants to spend 3k minimum if you’re lucky to go boosted. I’m waiting for mine to be paid off so I can go boosted.
alex ruiz good call waiting until it’s paid off. I got a SBD version 2 stage 1 kit which was 3k but I had a tuner do the install, dyno-tune etc. So it was 4k out the door for everything.
All that’s pretty spot on! At this point I’ve done full exhaust, CAI, e85 tune, intake manifold spacers, lightweight driveline, wheels, tires, and coilovers and I’m running 208whp with exponentially better handling. Definitely going to go forced induction so I can be around 300whp soon.
Idok Watcher yes... those people are more than welcome to buy a Mustang GT and will beat me in a straight line on any day that ends in “y”. But even as it stands with parts money, I’ve spent about $9,000 less on buying and building my new brz and am faster around our local track than many cars/drivers with much more power under the hood.
I agree with stuart on this not every one wants a car that every one can buy stock with 400 horse power. Not to mention i see thousands of ford 5.0. Lime my wife has the special addition 2013 scion tc rs 8.0 2000 made and I have 2017 toyota 860 special. You just don't see so many out there. Where as the sti you see them every where. Some people like rarity and will spend the money getting it up to par. Or some people starting out cant handle 400 horses under the feet. Good way to start out learn the craft and have fun building what you want. That's the fun in it.
I’d like to make a correction to that. I have a OFT, and if you get a turbo, which I did last year, you can very easily get a tune for that as well. All I did was send an email to Shiv, and I sent him about 6 tune files from my tablet over the span of two weeks, and voila, a custom tune specifically for my car. Ive DD’d about 7k miles on it and two track days-no problems at all.
The openflash tablet can be used for superchargers or turbochargers. The ecutek is not mandatory. It all depends on what tuner you get and what they tune with. I know someone with a turbo and someone else with a supercharger and they’re both tuned on the openflash tablet without any issues.
To me the most notable bargain mod were the Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts. Car feels much more predictable in fast Autobahn turns, less steering correction needed and less floaty feel.
not gonna lie, im gonna let everyone here know that getting a header is amazing. Im e85 with unequal 1320 header with the overpipe with oft stage 2+ . Should have been my FIRST upgrade, wanted to have some speed and its exactly the kind of thing i was looking for
Bryan Liguori I’m in Cali so I doubt I’ll pass emissions with this setup to be honest. Even with the catted header. Sadly I’ll probably swap everything back to stock so I can pass emissions :(
@@ScoopDog13 That sounds like such a drag to have to do! Damn, even with cats, what do they want from you? I believe NY subscribes to Cali emission regs so oh well... Shit I'd love some Subie rumble though.
I really like the aluminum drive shaft. For $500ish you reduce your rotating mass and remove the split stock drive shaft. Probably not the best upgrade for power, but I feel like it's higher on the list that others.
I did the header-tune-suspension-wheels/tires and then added a lightweight crank pulley and accessory pulley set. I wasn't expecting much but it really woke up some responsiveness!!!
I have the Whiteline front and rear bars with the adjustable links. The quality is awesome. They aren’t anything too technical, so any decent brand would be just fine I am sure. Size is important... I run the 22mm front and 18mm rear, which are the larger ones Whiteline offers, and they overwhelm the stock tires. With just sway bars and sticky tires you can crush on ramps.
For those interested in what happened, mine had a recall that had to be done so I took it to the dealer and a week later I was informed that while the intake manifold was removed, they started up my car to move it outside and it caught fire...
"You're not going to see that power unless you red line every day on the way to work" ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Me every day on the way to work
Good advice. Sway bars are definitely up there in my opinion. As far as bushings go, I really like the "anti-lift kit" I bought from Whiteline. In short, it reduces squatting under acceleration and nose dive during hard braking.
I like the Megan Racing tower brace bars. They cost less than $100 each on ebay and made my car able to pull 1G in a corner. Much better traction now too.
other than tires ... the modification people should focus on is their own ability. Maximize your skillsets, then handling, then power. The cheapest (free) mod makes the biggest difference in how 'fast' a car can go. Get your limit to far exceed your car stock, and be honest with yourself.
@@luisfelipelama4568 depends on turbo size and if your anti lag is set right. Sometime turbo lag is not even noticeable. For example my dads turbo Cayman swapped beetle is the most responsive car I've driven besides my kart.
Anyone have any recommendations for a turbo kit? I daily my car with not many intentions of getting into track or auto cross however I would like to start using the passing lane again. Was hoping to have a small turbo recommended (small= quicker spool, less power less compression less strain on car) since it fits my needs
@@sambutler1794 depends how aggressively you space them. A very subtle 10mm or so won’t do squat to your axles long-term, but it will make the car look more mature, especially when coupled with slight lowering springs.
Oil catch can, oil cooling, better cooling especially if run forced induction. You talked power and handling but never reliably. A good improvement is running a better radiator, make sure the rad you pick get PROPER AIR FLOW, no need to spend money on a bigger unit if it can’t get some air. We all know the the stock delivery system is so so in the FRS BRZ so even if your turbo/ supercharger does say it’s ok... DO IT!. The last thing you want is a blown motor. You also want heat shields, heat blankets and heat wraps. And map your intake( going to the intake$ from your inter cooler so it as far away from you exhaust as possible, use your inter cooler to cool LAST. Lastly Have fun
Cal Miller yes and no cut outs that do something like top mounted intercoolers or you have you turbo mounted high to take a (mesh you induction opening or pay for new parts) breeze can work, I prefer a thermos blanket tho. The certainly look cool but they cost you on the track. However for a BRZ/FRS they run hot, so cooling is a BIG deal. The problem is that the opening cause a ton of drag loosing up your front (bc it’s lifting). Also if you want to cool your engine bay you need EXAUTS holes not intake. Holes that draw air into the engine bay compress generating MORE heat. You need openings to allow the heat to escape. Anyway sorry for the lengthy explanation. Lol happy building!
They should have mentioned changing differential gearing. Yeah it's expensive but can make your car quicker without having to spend money on small engine gains.
Swap the final drive. Less than $800 if you DIY. Gearing is mechanical advantage. You can get an easy 10% torque to the pavement 100% of the time. I don't have any numbers for my car. To give you a real world example is a 5.7L Tundra with 4.30 vs 4.10 gives me an extra 2000 lbs towing capacity.
Soon in Canada Drive-Clean is done and catalytic converters will no longer be necessary. I can't ever see the profit in boosting my FR-S, the return will never feel like money well spent. The 4 mods here seem far and away enough along with a cat-back exhaust and a K&N air filter unless you track your car. Brake pads make a huge diff as well. Wheels will be my first major mod. 18" x 8.5 to keep it relatively streetable.
What if I don't want any Turbos or Superchargers but I want more power? Can I upgrade the valves, pistons, rods and the camshaft of the engine? What's the process like with that option, can you talk about that and the associated cost? Thanks!
I feel, my motor blew on Memorial Day then the dealership installed the new block wrong and it starting tapping after 800 miles sooooo I gotta sell my baby
@@johnnothnagle4642 damn man that's rough. I legit couldn't afford the payments. It saddens me because I did a decent amount of mods. Check out my vids when you get the chance.
You can get a great mountain bike suspension for 1k$, can't get much car suspension for that price unfortunately. If you don't have 2k$ or more for coilovers stay with OEM or be prepared to have very poor behavior/performance.
After the header could you not squeeze a few more horse puppies out with a ram air intake , a highflow exhaust and maybe a size bigger fuel injectors and a tune of course the theory in my head was a little more air to the motor a little more fuel brought in and the exhaust to allow the fumes to escape a little faster and easier ? just a theory i had
Awesome vid! If i could make a recommendation..you might want to break it down by stages. Or explain the difference between things like harmonic damper compared to a lightweight pulley
I’ve already got a catback exhaust from the factory with my 86 and I understand that a header with a tune will make great improvements, but what about the over pipe and front pipe? Are those parts efficient enough from the factory that don’t warrant replacing?
You can utilize OFT more with FI as well, OpenFlash guys have custom tuning for FI setup also, so it should work. Eg. JDL and SBD kits recommends OFT as well as EcuTEK
Is there any advantage to heat-wrapping the FTSpeed UEL header, or is that already covered with the ceramic coatings, bronze, black or tungsten? Which of those is better for heat management? How much does engine compartment heat affect performance and/or durability? Thank you.
If curb weight is 2815lbs 200 hp, power to weight =14.075 213.8 hp, power to weight = 13.166 Doesn't sound like much but the power to weight is the thing to consider. Dump 100 lbs out of the car: 200 hp, 13.57 power to weight 213.8 hp, 12.69 power to weight...
hey FTspeed need your opinion on the "Crawford Billet Power Blocks" I haven't seen much about them and am very skeptical about whether they add any power or if they're a waste of time and money. thanks in advance
@@charleyssss The toyota engineers chose that heavy crank pulley for a reason. And my biggest pet peeve was all the morons saying that reducing the rotational inertia of the engine "gives it more horsepower" This is false. Think about it. A measurement of Horsepower is SUPPOSED to be made at constant RPM. How can a reduced rotational inertia help the engine when it is at constant RPM? Answer; It cannot.
So what's the point of pedal dance mode with openflash? The way I understand it you can already turn off traction control and stability control with a button in the car. The only thing left to disable is ABS right?
So I am assuming this is wheel hp? Because the stock numbers are supposedly 200-205 hp? Sorry, I don't know much about cars. I'm just interested in getting an 86 when I'm older
Yeah, he is talking about wheel hp. 200 stock is at the crank. Power figures to the wheels will give you a better idea of a cars performance but the manufacturers want to advertise as high of a number as they can. That's just the peak number. What is important is the area under the curve.
which springs should I get on your website? I'd like some cheap ones that dont go too low (because the streets in the bay are terrible) but low enough that it looks nice
I need help on a big decision I have to make. UEL Header+tune and coils or just a Vortech supercharger kit. Rn all I have is a takeda catback and takeda intake. Any thoughts?
If you buy the OFT, I’m warning you if it doesn’t work, the OpenFlash company won’t help you fix the issue after they try to fix it over the computer. Trust me, I’m still going through it right now and it’s been over 2 months since I purchased it.
Chris Country sorry to hear that man, I bought mine used and after filling out all the information they got back to me in less than a day, maybe send another email?
![Aftermarket Exhausts | Everything you need to know [FRS/BRZ/86]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8XQW_Trs2LA/mqdefault.jpg)
"Unless you're redlining your car on the way to work" wait do you not?
When he said that I was like 😬
Thank God I'm not the only one 😅
Shout-out to all my fellow driving enthusiasts hahaha 🤙🏼
"this car is so slow" says the guys flooring 6th gear on the highway already going 100 lol
Yea I pretty much Redline at least once a day! lol
A 4.88 final drive upgrade is what gave me the the oomph i was looking for. Its more involved with the installation and proper shims. But its car feels more powerful with this mod. You can go 4.56 if you drive alot of highway driving. Also if you have a 2017-up manual with 4.3 fd then it might not be nesessary. If you look at the specs of the trd griffon86, its a 4.8 fd, lightened car ( about 300kg) and a good suspension and a good brake setup. They manage to lap tsukuba about the same time as a ferrari 458 on stockish 230+ hp. Also your not adding additional stress on your engine like a turbo or a superchager. Youll have the same engine reliability as stock.
Just wondering, but why do you think it's not necessary for the 2017-up manual with 4.3 fd to have the fd upgrade?
Fuherious probably because there isn't as big of a difference since those models already have shortened FD. 4.3 to 4.5 or 4.8 isn't as big of a jump, probably not worth the trouble?
4.3 to a 4.67 is definitely worth it. Or even 4.88 if you wanna go hectic
@@julian2011934 going 4.56 from 4.3 is a marginal improvement. 4% at best. Also the cost involve in changing your final drive for that amount of gain is on the high side. Youll still have a gain, but in my opinion its not worth it. You might not even feel it on day to day driving.
What was the final gear ratio before 2017?
No mention of DECALS under the POWER gains category? Amateur channel.
Yea bro... flame decals give +500 hp on installation😳😳
Did you mean battle aero?
My RaceDay Condom
Bro, I added a dragon ball to replace my shift knob. I drive on clouds now!
@@justabearbrowsingyoutube4968 LMAO
If you don’t redline your car everyday on your way to work, you’re driving it wrong 😉
tbh it’s not wrong to do it either 💀💀💀
so true mate👍
Until you’re on a hill. Weirdo
@@joshuav8571 not funny.😑
@@joshuav8571 go tell your gay jokes somewhere else weirdo.
My modifications will be
Tein z coilovers
17x7.5 5x100 +45 mags
With 225/45/17 grippy tyres
Ep8 break pads
Upgraded end links
Rear strut bar
Things I've done so far
Changed tail lights and and license plate cover haha
is it fully modded now bro?
Your telling me its eccutek and not e c u tek?
My life is a lie.
Yup I thought it was like what you did as well
Lowie T I’m still saying E C U Tek
E c u Tek for life
I thought that way as well.
Before boost, fuel pump grade and flex fuel kit for E85
Not ideal for dailys
Not really necessary, All I’ve done power-wise is a 10psi turbo kit. I daily drive it and it’s hard to find E85 in the city. I’m at 277whp on pump gas with stock fuel pump etc. IMO plenty of power, just what the car needed. It’s been boosted for 55k+ miles and am still very happy with it. I couldn’t do a NA 86 anymore.
Scott Ryan depends on where you live... how accessible it is... temperatures... cuz E85 doesn’t like the cold... E85 can clog injectors if it sits to long...
DJ Dizzy I feel you, I’m n/a
But not everyone wants to spend 3k minimum if you’re lucky to go boosted.
I’m waiting for mine to be paid off so I can go boosted.
alex ruiz good call waiting until it’s paid off. I got a SBD version 2 stage 1 kit which was 3k but I had a tuner do the install, dyno-tune etc. So it was 4k out the door for everything.
All that’s pretty spot on! At this point I’ve done full exhaust, CAI, e85 tune, intake manifold spacers, lightweight driveline, wheels, tires, and coilovers and I’m running 208whp with exponentially better handling. Definitely going to go forced induction so I can be around 300whp soon.
But all that cost you as much as a 400hp car. Which may be fine for you, but it's easy to see why others don't think it's a good idea
Idok Watcher yes... those people are more than welcome to buy a Mustang GT and will beat me in a straight line on any day that ends in “y”. But even as it stands with parts money, I’ve spent about $9,000 less on buying and building my new brz and am faster around our local track than many cars/drivers with much more power under the hood.
I agree with stuart on this not every one wants a car that every one can buy stock with 400 horse power. Not to mention i see thousands of ford 5.0. Lime my wife has the special addition 2013 scion tc rs 8.0 2000 made and I have 2017 toyota 860 special. You just don't see so many out there. Where as the sti you see them every where. Some people like rarity and will spend the money getting it up to par. Or some people starting out cant handle 400 horses under the feet. Good way to start out learn the craft and have fun building what you want. That's the fun in it.
I got a short throw dipstick for my 86. That was my first mod
I’d like to make a correction to that. I have a OFT, and if you get a turbo, which I did last year, you can very easily get a tune for that as well. All I did was send an email to Shiv, and I sent him about 6 tune files from my tablet over the span of two weeks, and voila, a custom tune specifically for my car. Ive DD’d about 7k miles on it and two track days-no problems at all.
The openflash tablet can be used for superchargers or turbochargers. The ecutek is not mandatory. It all depends on what tuner you get and what they tune with. I know someone with a turbo and someone else with a supercharger and they’re both tuned on the openflash tablet without any issues.
To me the most notable bargain mod were the Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts. Car feels much more predictable in fast Autobahn turns, less steering correction needed and less floaty feel.
Damn i miss this dude. Hope he doing good
not gonna lie, im gonna let everyone here know that getting a header is amazing. Im e85 with unequal 1320 header with the overpipe with oft stage 2+ . Should have been my FIRST upgrade, wanted to have some speed and its exactly the kind of thing i was looking for
Can confirm. I have a similar set up and the oft stage 2+ E-85 really changed this car.
Do you guys have to worry about passing emissions with that setup? I'm in NY State
Bryan Liguori I’m in Cali so I doubt I’ll pass emissions with this setup to be honest. Even with the catted header. Sadly I’ll probably swap everything back to stock so I can pass emissions :(
@@ScoopDog13 That sounds like such a drag to have to do! Damn, even with cats, what do they want from you?
I believe NY subscribes to Cali emission regs so oh well... Shit I'd love some Subie rumble though.
@@nthgth yeah, i wouldnt be able to pass emission but luckily i dont need to pass it where i live
A short throw shifter will make a difference on day to day driving and at the track, cost 150-180$, about 1.5h for instalation. Worth it for sure.
I really like the aluminum drive shaft. For $500ish you reduce your rotating mass and remove the split stock drive shaft. Probably not the best upgrade for power, but I feel like it's higher on the list that others.
I did the header-tune-suspension-wheels/tires and then added a lightweight crank pulley and accessory pulley set. I wasn't expecting much but it really woke up some responsiveness!!!
Which header path did you go, equal or unequal?
You are the Fortnine of 86/BRZ information. Thank you so much for this and many other videos as well as for your calm descriptive tone!
Sway bars. Huge gains in confidence and limit approach compared to stock body roll.
Thanks for your perspective bro. Didn't think about getting sway bars any time soon
What sway bars would you recommend
I have the Whiteline front and rear bars with the adjustable links. The quality is awesome. They aren’t anything too technical, so any decent brand would be just fine I am sure. Size is important... I run the 22mm front and 18mm rear, which are the larger ones Whiteline offers, and they overwhelm the stock tires. With just sway bars and sticky tires you can crush on ramps.
I believe most of the fastest guys in 86Cup Street class run stock sway bars?
Timur Iskhodzhanov could be bro
After losing my BRZ, it hurts watching these but I still rep the 86 platform
iTZz Kittens how’d you lose it ? :(
Don't worry bro you'll get another one. Small things to a giant.
So sorry for your loss 😔
For those interested in what happened, mine had a recall that had to be done so I took it to the dealer and a week later I was informed that while the intake manifold was removed, they started up my car to move it outside and it caught fire...
iTZz Kittens that fucken sucks I hope you get your bag 😤
Thanks for this video, man. Straight up and to the point.
I like this guy. He’s so charismatic without even trying m.
"You're not going to see that power unless you red line every day on the way to work"
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Me every day on the way to work
Thrash it, just to be sure.
Tech Tip Tuesday: Tips on how to change the spark plugs on your FR-S/BRZ/86
Chris Nguyen good luck on that one, changing on totally stock enginebay is a beast with the fuel injector covers in the way😂
Chris Nguyen unless you have a lift it’s a pain in the ass.
Step 1: Give up
Step 2: Engine swap time, baby
Had the valve-spring recall work done and had them replace the plugs while the motor was out :)
Did mine in about 3 hours but def worth not spending extra on a mechanic. Downside is they're in a difficult spot
Good advice. Sway bars are definitely up there in my opinion. As far as bushings go, I really like the "anti-lift kit" I bought from Whiteline. In short, it reduces squatting under acceleration and nose dive during hard braking.
Tail lights best bang for your buck, factory tends to have condensation :P
Jermine Saw really, what about a flash tune
This was true in my case... Got one of the factory taillights replaced under warranty for water ingress, then replaced both of them with Valentis. lol
lucas holtkamp they change your car’s looks a lot I agree, especially at night
The condensation is caused by bad factory seals. Even my TOM'S had that issue until I got the updated seals/gaskets.
My '18 BRZ doesn't have the condensation issue...yet
I like the Megan Racing tower brace bars. They cost less than $100 each on ebay and made my car able to pull 1G in a corner. Much better traction now too.
other than tires ...
the modification people should focus on is their own ability. Maximize your skillsets, then handling, then power. The cheapest (free) mod makes the biggest difference in how 'fast' a car can go. Get your limit to far exceed your car stock, and be honest with yourself.
Somebody gets it!
Glad I found this channel before I take ownership of 2020 GT86. Just need a second job to get that extra income to pay for the upgrades & mods :)
Tertia.E011 okay boomer
If only I wasn’t a poor college student🥺
It's temporary my man. Trust me it'll get better. It did for me after college
TheDisrespectfulGentlemen yeah I’m 19 and a junior in college. Supposed to graduate fall 2020 or spring 2021. Almost done🙏🏽
TheDisrespectfulGentlemen what degree
@@Deselectings7 criminal justice here in Texas
Ace everything from here on out and get experience while in college when you can
If only I could afford a turbo 😩
A naturally aspirated vehícle feeling is much better
@@luisfelipelama4568 depends on turbo size and if your anti lag is set right. Sometime turbo lag is not even noticeable. For example my dads turbo Cayman swapped beetle is the most responsive car I've driven besides my kart.
You forgot to mention in the power section over pipe and front pipe for more torque
Anyone have any recommendations for a turbo kit? I daily my car with not many intentions of getting into track or auto cross however I would like to start using the passing lane again.
Was hoping to have a small turbo recommended (small= quicker spool, less power less compression less strain on car) since it fits my needs
As far as handling goes... definitely wheel spacers - one of the first things. Super cheap, reduces roll a lot.
I heard spacers were the leading contribution to issues with your axels down the line
@@sambutler1794 depends how aggressively you space them. A very subtle 10mm or so won’t do squat to your axles long-term, but it will make the car look more mature, especially when coupled with slight lowering springs.
Or you know, get some offsets
Coilovers and a wider wheel with a touch of stretch. No need for spacers, ever, imo
@@Oetti square 10mm or just the rear wheels?
Don't forget E85 :)
Oil catch can, oil cooling, better cooling especially if run forced induction. You talked power and handling but never reliably. A good improvement is running a better radiator, make sure the rad you pick get PROPER AIR FLOW, no need to spend money on a bigger unit if it can’t get some air. We all know the the stock delivery system is so so in the FRS BRZ so even if your turbo/ supercharger does say it’s ok... DO IT!. The last thing you want is a blown motor. You also want heat shields, heat blankets and heat wraps. And map your intake( going to the intake$ from your inter cooler so it as far away from you exhaust as possible, use your inter cooler to cool LAST. Lastly Have fun
Apparently a hood with cut-outs can be a huge cooling bonus as well.
Cal Miller yes and no cut outs that do something like top mounted intercoolers or you have you turbo mounted high to take a (mesh you induction opening or pay for new parts) breeze can work, I prefer a thermos blanket tho. The certainly look cool but they cost you on the track. However for a BRZ/FRS they run hot, so cooling is a BIG deal. The problem is that the opening cause a ton of drag loosing up your front (bc it’s lifting). Also if you want to cool your engine bay you need EXAUTS holes not intake. Holes that draw air into the engine bay compress generating MORE heat. You need openings to allow the heat to escape. Anyway sorry for the lengthy explanation. Lol happy building!
I love the bloopers at the end
No oil cooler
*do you even track bro?*
Use AMSoil fluids in the Engine/Transmission/Differential. Smooth motor operation, Improved shifting, And a quality fluid to handle heat in OEM form.
What you said + stainless brake lines and higher quality brake pads (and fresh fluid)👍
I wish you could add some pics or something to give us an idea of what do you talking about thx good video overall
1 tip, dont buy lowering springs for this car you gonna end up kill your dampers!!
the best suspecion is for sure KW V3
They should have mentioned changing differential gearing. Yeah it's expensive but can make your car quicker without having to spend money on small engine gains.
Tech tip Tuesday: how to install larger injectors (like 1000cc or so) and larger fuel pump
Small suggestion, could you guys get a dark mode on the website?
Nash dark mode all the things
OFT recommends stock intake with their tune, aftermarket filter is ok.
Swap the final drive. Less than $800 if you DIY. Gearing is mechanical advantage. You can get an easy 10% torque to the pavement 100% of the time. I don't have any numbers for my car. To give you a real world example is a 5.7L Tundra with 4.30 vs 4.10 gives me an extra 2000 lbs towing capacity.
Okay this was the last straw, had to subscribe. Watched to many of these videos not to.
Soon in Canada Drive-Clean is done and catalytic converters will no longer be necessary. I can't ever see the profit in boosting my FR-S, the return will never feel like money well spent. The 4 mods here seem far and away enough along with a cat-back exhaust and a K&N air filter unless you track your car. Brake pads make a huge diff as well. Wheels will be my first major mod. 18" x 8.5 to keep it relatively streetable.
FBO, E85 tune. Affordable and a big bump (For NA) in power. Spend the rest of the cash on suspension and hanging bits 😎
Defenitly debating between this and the new Miata
amazing modification.. i subscribed 👍🏻
Might mention that the ptuning turbo kit works with most aftermarket headers.
What if I don't want any Turbos or Superchargers but I want more power? Can I upgrade the valves, pistons, rods and the camshaft of the engine? What's the process like with that option, can you talk about that and the associated cost?
Thanks!
That moment when you sold your 86 but still watch ft86 speed factory videos.
F
I feel, my motor blew on Memorial Day then the dealership installed the new block wrong and it starting tapping after 800 miles sooooo I gotta sell my baby
@@johnnothnagle4642 damn man that's rough. I legit couldn't afford the payments. It saddens me because I did a decent amount of mods. Check out my vids when you get the chance.
@@Aaron-fb6mb my thoughts exactly lol
These cars were built with the driver's best interest in mind. Put as much or as little into it as you wish, as long as you maintain it. Simple.
I love your workshop... Ao clean
If you do forced induction things go boom 💥Save up for some years and do a LS swap
Stickers are a good power mod 👍
Neons are better for handling
I'd like to see how the ACE clubsport 400 header compares to your UEL. They are a long tube 4-2-1 style. That should provide better low end power.
My wife gave me a header this morning and I redlined all the way to work
I've gotten tires and coilovers, 18x9.5 +38, 265/35/18. Next step is definitely a header and maybe supercharger down the road.
I love that you failed to mention the most important upgrade of all. Clearly you haven't spent time in the racing world. I'll leave you to it.
Tyres?
I have the ft86 headers but took the cat out because it got clogged made 189 to the wheels on a ecutek dyno tune
What about better brakes? Bring able to brake later into a corner makes a difference.
I have billet aluminium bushings everywhere on everything and its not annoying at all
You can get a great mountain bike suspension for 1k$, can't get much car suspension for that price unfortunately. If you don't have 2k$ or more for coilovers stay with OEM or be prepared to have very poor behavior/performance.
I see ft86sf
I click
Is the uel header is bad for the car? Does it run hotter would it be best to go equal length?
short throw shifter, weighted shift knob, pedals, sprint booster,
After the header could you not squeeze a few more horse puppies out with a ram air intake , a highflow exhaust and maybe a size bigger fuel injectors and a tune of course the theory in my head was a little more air to the motor a little more fuel brought in and the exhaust to allow the fumes to escape a little faster and easier ? just a theory i had
Have you ever done any testing with the Crawford Power Blocks? (Manifold spacers) They claim 19 hp without a tune.
Awesome vid! If i could make a recommendation..you might want to break it down by stages. Or explain the difference between things like harmonic damper compared to a lightweight pulley
Idk what either of those are. Yes, please give more details.
Driveshaft is one of the best. Handling and acceleration...
Probably a stupid question but why is the red one 196hp but the stated power of the car from factory is 200?
I’ve already got a catback exhaust from the factory with my 86 and I understand that a header with a tune will make great improvements, but what about the over pipe and front pipe? Are those parts efficient enough from the factory that don’t warrant replacing?
Follow same question ive had in mind
Maybe y’all respond but I thought with open flash tablet you could go to a dyno and get your car tuned with it, once you go charged
You can utilize OFT more with FI as well, OpenFlash guys have custom tuning for FI setup also, so it should work. Eg. JDL and SBD kits recommends OFT as well as EcuTEK
Is there any advantage to heat-wrapping the FTSpeed UEL header, or is that already covered with the ceramic coatings, bronze, black or tungsten? Which of those is better for heat management? How much does engine compartment heat affect performance and/or durability? Thank you.
If curb weight is 2815lbs
200 hp, power to weight =14.075
213.8 hp, power to weight = 13.166
Doesn't sound like much but the power to weight is the thing to consider.
Dump 100 lbs out of the car:
200 hp, 13.57 power to weight
213.8 hp, 12.69 power to weight...
hey FTspeed need your opinion on the "Crawford Billet Power Blocks" I haven't seen much about them and am very skeptical about whether they add any power or if they're a waste of time and money. thanks in advance
At least "lightweight crank pulley" isn't on your list. I had many arguments on the ft86 forums about that topic.
@@charleyssss The toyota engineers chose that heavy crank pulley for a reason.
And my biggest pet peeve was all the morons saying that reducing the rotational inertia of the engine "gives it more horsepower"
This is false. Think about it. A measurement of Horsepower is SUPPOSED to be made at constant RPM. How can a reduced rotational inertia help the engine when it is at constant RPM? Answer; It cannot.
great video
What about fuel injectors and throttle body fuel pump upgrades
So what's the point of pedal dance mode with openflash? The way I understand it you can already turn off traction control and stability control with a button in the car. The only thing left to disable is ABS right?
Thanks very informative
Damn, that body kit is really dope, who makes those and what is it called?
Shouldnt you boost handling, get a new set of tires etc, way before you increase power?
Or why not both at the same time? Either way it depends on what the driver wants.
What if you add bigger fuel injectors, fuel pump and plasma coils could you yield hp with a tune?
Well there be a header video for hks uel super manifold??
So I am assuming this is wheel hp? Because the stock numbers are supposedly 200-205 hp? Sorry, I don't know much about cars. I'm just interested in getting an 86 when I'm older
Yeah, he is talking about wheel hp. 200 stock is at the crank. Power figures to the wheels will give you a better idea of a cars performance but the manufacturers want to advertise as high of a number as they can. That's just the peak number. What is important is the area under the curve.
so the summary is: header, remap, intake? to get 190whp?
Best Mods for Your Buck: Lists every mod everyone plans on buying for their BRZ/FRS/86 lol
which springs should I get on your website? I'd like some cheap ones that dont go too low (because the streets in the bay are terrible) but low enough that it looks nice
racecomp yellow drop just 20 mm F and R
I need help on a big decision I have to make. UEL Header+tune and coils or just a Vortech supercharger kit. Rn all I have is a takeda catback and takeda intake. Any thoughts?
Ethan get the header and coils and work with that before investing in a supercharger I think
Supercharger will give way more noticeable power...so I hear, I’m running uel headers and it’s not that big of improvement.
Deron Potts so you have headers and a tune and don’t notice that much of a difference?
Which transmission should I get and modify? The automatic or the manual?
If you buy the OFT, I’m warning you if it doesn’t work, the OpenFlash company won’t help you fix the issue after they try to fix it over the computer. Trust me, I’m still going through it right now and it’s been over 2 months since I purchased it.
Chris Country sorry to hear that man, I bought mine used and after filling out all the information they got back to me in less than a day, maybe send another email?
What about e85 fuel ?
So if I planned on installing a turbo eventually anyways should I not even bother with the header?
That helps. thanks