Thank you for great videos. Son and I are doing a 48 over to pass down between 4 boys. Some time I need help like this and again can't thank you enough.
The year was 1959 when my Dad came home in a pristine 1952 WILlYS OVERLAND pick-up truck with the four cylinder Hurricane engine, in central North Carolina. It had the rare five bar grill and 700-16 mud grip tires and of course four wheel drive. Fast forward three years and two engines on a cold November morning we pulled a six cylinder super hurricane out of a beautiful old 1953 WILLYS car at a local salvage yard in Thomasville, N.C. The next day is was in and running with no hood and a spaced forward radiator. There was no hood because the front of the engine was suspended across the fenders with a two by four. I was now sixteen and had a drivers license so less than a mile down the road to the welder so shop for the first time she was running seventy miles an hour. Needless to say I love your videos and all the great work you are doing with what cannot be bought-knowledge for anyone willing to listen!
karl, thanks for sharing your Willys story here, sure is nice to hear about peoples first experience with these fine vehicles. Hope your are enjoying my youtube channel and keep watching for more videos. I am showing a lifetime of hard to find information. Brian
Thank you for answering so many questions on the DANA 41 axle setup. Last time I did this back in the mid-80's, it was all guesswork, and I made a few wrong guesses! Fortunately, I got the woodruff key in correctly, and didn't crack the hub. Excellent step-by-step procedures. Always wondered the process on the castle nut tightening on the proper way to line-up the cotter key; now I know, keep tightening until the cotter key fits, do not back it off. My M38 is next, this time with confidence! Thank you Sir
I think im starting to have feelings for you. I watch every one of your videos, several times and am subscribed. Dont get frustrated. You are a dying breed. You could be a millionaire.
Nice job on the video. My jeep that I did the 11" conversion on is a 53 cj3a. I had to use a special tool to cur the swager on on each stud to separate hub and drum. Also my axle tube has a grease zirk and a real small vent hole for greasing the outer bearing. Thanks for your videos. Willys Joe
Thank you very much for this illustrative video, I have a CJ2A 1946, I have some problem with my rear axle and I will follow your instructions to put it toguether correctly, thanks again.
Take it slow and follow along with the video and you should be able to get it together without too much trouble. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos.
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your project. Take your time and be patient when rebuilding your rear axle..... there can be a lot of adjustments to make to get it just right. Good luck and send a comment if you have any other areas you would like to see a video of.
Fantastic Channel and awesome videos. They're really insightful !! - I'm having some trouble with free play adjustment on the dana 41 rear axle. Currently I have no free play with a decent shim set on each side. The bearing races are protruding approx 2mm from the axle flange but have I driven this race in too far and this has resulted in no end play. I say this because after I use a dead blow hammer against the shaft there is still no free play and in some occasions the rotation binds. Many thanks Daniel
Pull the axles out a bit and start again. You need a little bit of end play so as not to destroy your axle bearings. Add more shims until you get some free play.
Once you get some axles rebuilt and sitting around you will find yourself wanting to build another jeep. Happens to me all the time. A few parts laying around and next thing you know another big build !!! Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Don't have any Timken rears to rebuild right now. They are different and you must pay attention to the rebuild carefully. If one comes thru the shop I will show the rebuild of it.
Where are you getting perts. Pls post the venders and the parts you got. I am having trouble sourcing components like brake backing plates and hubs for 10x2 drum set up. I do not use marginal parts when dealing with any brake system. These parts looked hi guality something Im very interested in.
Thanx for this nice vid,very helpful,and interesting.But when i search for "Dana 44 rear axel",according to replace the bearing,sealshaft....Where can i find the exat info,about the specific axel? and bearings...Thanx again;))
Thank you for the direction- most helpful -I have the same amount of play after shimming as recommended and, to be clear it is the same on both sides- it is a Dana 44 tapered shaft axle. Is this correct?
Hi, I noticed that your Willys shim setup is quite similar to my J trucks Dana 53 with tapered axles. Thanks for the clarity. I did not know the brake backing plate could be pre-assembled with brake shoes l Great job describing how you work on Jeeps. I learn a lot from your videos. Will rapping on the opposite shafts seat the bearing s on a limited slip differential? I have the POWER LOK option in a Dana 53.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 48 Willys Truck with the Timken axle would the process be the same as you showed here regarding how you hit the axles to drive the cup out and then shim to .006?
Hi there. Great videos for the DIY mechanics. Do you have a video prior to this stage where you remove/reinstall the inner seals and cone bearing etc? Before the Cup goes on and this video picks up?
I wonder if a disc brake set up could be Frankenstiened on to my little monster. (basically a willys chasis go cart) I live in the mountains. Real steep ones.
Yet another super helpful and thorough video. Thanks! I did have a question - the 11" drum brake kit I purchased from Herm the Overdrive Guy uses recycled backing plates, and thus the "7th hole" drain hole does not quite line up correctly to give the full diameter as all the other holes - there's maybe 1/8th of the hole diameter that goes through. Is this going to be an issue, should I drill the hole out?
I'm putting together a '68 cj5 I bought completely disassembled. I'm following your videos as I do the work. The rear axle came with the drums and axles removed, but the diff gears in place. I replaced the pinon seal. The driver's side axle had a 1/8" wobble in the middle so I bought a new one. I followed your previous video of installing the seals, axle bearings, axles, and races and now I'm at the point in this video of adjusting the play. Unfortunately, there is no in/out axle play. I haven't installed the shims or backing plate yet. What could be the problem? The differential has a Powr-Lok and 4.88 gearing. The axles are pretty hard to turn by hand. Everything seems to turn easily, though, if I turn the yoke.
you may have the bearing cups in too tight right now. the shims allow the axle shaft cups to come out of the housing a little bit so that you have end play. Install the shims and tap the axleshafts like you saw in the video, that will set your cups at the proper location. you must have some end play or you will overheat and ruin the bearings.
Brian, If a guy wanted to have locking hubs on the rear (I flat tow), what all would be involved in converting to locking hubs? I already have 11 inch brakes and have the Dana 44 (3A) if that matters. Thank you.
Tom, you can find all the parts you need from Herm the overdrive guy. Don't try to find parts and pieces to make it work, just get the spindles, axles, hubs, etc.. from a source and install it. Search for herm the overdrive guy and give him a call. Tell him that Brian sent you and he will have many different kits available for your vehicle and budget. Pick what works best for you. It is a very easy installation when you have the proper parts.
I am having a hard time finding the correct size race for my 46 CJ2A with the Dana 41. I ordered the bearings and race from Napa and the new bearing with the old race fits like it should, but the new race (same part number as the old one) doesn't fit right. Any suggestions on where to get the correct parts?
Great video! I have a 47 CJ2A and have been researching brake upgrades recently. A lot of folks are doing the conversion with 95 Geo Tracker discs and calipers. There’s a guy named Brennan Metcalf who sells the mounting brackets from his website. If I remember correctly I read that the conversion can be done for about $125 per wheel. I’m curious to know if you have done this conversion before and how it compares to the 11” drum upgrade in price, performance, and difficulty of installation?
You can see me prepping axles in some of my newest videos, for the disc brake conversion. Disc or 11" drum is up to you, I prefer the 11" drum conversion but a lot of guys are having good luck with the disc brake conversion. Just a personal preference.
your videos are great, on one of them you mentioned that we should purchase quality parts to restore a jeep. can you give me a good soars for parts? right now I am repuilding a steering gear on my cj2a jeep.
Best place for quality parts is Pete Debella Jeep Parts. 631 874 8660 Give him a call and tell him that Brian from youtube told you to call. He will get you the quality parts you need.
At the end of your Willys Jeep Rear Axle Rebuild, Axle shaft installation video there looked to be about 3/16" play in the axle. At the start of this video, there was very little play. What was the difference? My reason for asking is I have put all new axles and bearings in my Dana 44 (67 CJ5) but I have the same 3/16" of end play on both axles. No shims installed. I pulled the axles back out and compared them to the originals. They are the same. Bearings are 0.996 tall. Any suggestions on what to look for? It seems as though I need to put a spacer behind the bearings to take up the play.
There is always a lot of play when both bearings are not seated all the way. Then you take your time and shim them to give the correct end play. Also make sure you didn't leave out or forget your center block in the carrier. Both axles will hit that and play a part in your end play. Some axles are shimmed on both sides, others just on one side. Start on one side and get it set, then move to the other side and add or subtract shims to get proper set up. Take your time and get it right and you will have a quiet rear axle that will last for a long time. Any further questions feel free to email me directly. Brian
Awesome helpful videos.. about to tear into a d44.. when removing the hub, do I have to get the key out first, or will the key come out with a hub puller? Thanks!
Right now the frame is only in primer, no finish paint yet. I use Epoxy primer on all my parts and recently started using SPI Epoxy Primer. You can search on the internet to find them. Great company and the products they offer are great. Frame gets 3 coats of epoxy, along with all other attaching parts, then once all is together a top coat of my own blend of black paint. You will see it in future videos in finish paint.
Ryan, you can put the entire kit together yourself if you have a donor vehicle to get all the parts off of. Or you can buy everything. there are a bunch of companies that sell the kits and the prices vary like crazy. A great kit for the best price can be purchased from Herm the overdrive guy. Just search for him like that, herm the overdrive guy. give him a call and tell him Brian sent you there and he will have everything you need.
I am pulling my 44 apart and noticed that on my driver side, I don't have a Rear Axle Bearing Retainer plate. Is that normal? Do I need need one, if not for support?
@@metalshaperJeep Oh this gets better and better. I pulled off the axle wheel hub and key and the hub is split per your video comment, the key is rounded as well as the axle shaft key slot. So glad you made that comment because I specifically looked for the crack. Thanks so much for the little comments like that in your videos.
on the 11" self adjusting brakes the long shoe goes to the rear. If you were doing original brakes with anchor pins and manual adjustment the long shoe goes to the front.
Hello! I am starting to gather the parts for an 9" to 11" drum brake conversion on my 1964 CJ3B. Do you have an email to where I can send you the pics of the backing plates I recently acquired, so you can confirm if the are for front (which I was told), and use them for rear as well? They sure look the same as what you have installed on the rear, and I have access for 2 more of these... Appreciate your assistance. Best regards, Jorge
This is a masterclass for pros and amateurs. You are like having a mentoring the garage. Thanks!!!
Thank you for great videos. Son and I are doing a 48 over to pass down between 4 boys. Some time I need help like this and again can't thank you enough.
Brian... Thank you for all the tips. I did mines and learned the hardway what you are showing in this video. Juan
Glad to help
The year was 1959 when my Dad came home in a pristine 1952 WILlYS OVERLAND pick-up truck with the four cylinder Hurricane engine, in central North Carolina. It had the rare five bar grill and 700-16 mud grip tires and of course four wheel drive. Fast forward three years and two engines on a cold November morning we pulled a six cylinder super hurricane out of a beautiful old 1953 WILLYS car at a local salvage yard in Thomasville, N.C. The next day is was in and running with no hood and a spaced forward radiator. There was no hood because the front of the engine was suspended across the fenders with a two by four. I was now sixteen and had a drivers license so less than a mile down the road to the welder so shop for the first time she was running seventy miles an hour. Needless to say I love your videos and all the great work you are doing with what cannot be bought-knowledge for anyone willing to listen!
karl, thanks for sharing your Willys story here, sure is nice to hear about peoples first experience with these fine vehicles. Hope your are enjoying my youtube channel and keep watching for more videos. I am showing a lifetime of hard to find information.
Brian
Thank you for answering so many questions on the DANA 41 axle setup. Last time I did this back in the mid-80's, it was all guesswork, and I made a few wrong guesses! Fortunately, I got the woodruff key in correctly, and didn't crack the hub. Excellent step-by-step procedures. Always wondered the process on the castle nut tightening on the proper way to line-up the cotter key; now I know, keep tightening until the cotter key fits, do not back it off. My M38 is next, this time with confidence! Thank you Sir
Glad I could help!
I think im starting to have feelings for you. I watch every one of your videos, several times and am subscribed. Dont get frustrated. You are a dying breed. You could be a millionaire.
Nice job on the video. My jeep that I did the 11" conversion on is a 53 cj3a. I had to use a special tool to cur the swager on on each stud to separate hub and drum. Also my axle tube has a grease zirk and a real small vent hole for greasing the outer bearing. Thanks for your videos.
Willys Joe
Very good instructor. Love your videos
this was very helpful when setting up my Dana 41 and 44 rear ends. Thank you for all the time you put into these videos, it's greatly appreciated!
Thank you very much for this illustrative video, I have a CJ2A 1946, I have some problem with my rear axle and I will follow your instructions to put it toguether correctly, thanks again.
Take it slow and follow along with the video and you should be able to get it together without too much trouble. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos.
You are my absolute favorite! How the heck do you get all of your nasty parts so dang clean in your videos? Very impressed!
Just did some work on my rear diff and this video saved me from messing up the key installation. THANK YOU!
Great video you are spot on on everything!
Many thanks for another great video! I will be tackling mine tomorrow!
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your project. Take your time and be patient when rebuilding your rear axle..... there can be a lot of adjustments to make to get it just right. Good luck and send a comment if you have any other areas you would like to see a video of.
Metal-shaper ..... you do a bang up GREAT job on these vids ...... THANKS GUY !!!!!
Thank very much for this series. You make it look easy.
your are welcome, keep watching for more videos.
Great video you can put the 11inch drum on the original 9 inch hub don't need a new style hub?
yes, 5 on 5.5" was standard on early and late CJ Jeep vehicles. Some of my early videos showing the 11" upgrade will help you see the process.
Brian
Your videos, btw, are what saved my to jeeps!
Nice video! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and wisdom :)
Glad you are enjoying the video series. Keep watching there is much more to come on this project and many others.
Fantastic Channel and awesome videos. They're really insightful !!
- I'm having some trouble with free play adjustment on the dana 41 rear axle.
Currently I have no free play with a decent shim set on each side.
The bearing races are protruding approx 2mm from the axle flange but have I driven this race in too far and this has resulted in no end play. I say this because after I use a dead blow hammer against the shaft there is still no free play and in some occasions the rotation binds.
Many thanks Daniel
Pull the axles out a bit and start again. You need a little bit of end play so as not to destroy your axle bearings. Add more shims until you get some free play.
thanks Brian for the swift reply. I'll give that a go !!
Nice video so well explained ,, thank you for your time ...
Thanks for watching Mike, good to have people like you around who enjoy my videos.
Brian
great job as always! despite running a dana 30 and 44 I think I might rebuild the stock axles and shelve them for another jeep :)
Once you get some axles rebuilt and sitting around you will find yourself wanting to build another jeep. Happens to me all the time. A few parts laying around and next thing you know another big build !!! Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Very nice. Thanks for what you do it is very helpful to me. I have a Timken rear end, do you have any rebuild videos of those?
Don't have any Timken rears to rebuild right now. They are different and you must pay attention to the rebuild carefully. If one comes thru the shop I will show the rebuild of it.
Where are you getting perts. Pls post the venders and the parts you got.
I am having trouble sourcing components like brake backing plates and hubs for 10x2 drum set up. I do not use marginal parts when dealing with any brake system.
These parts looked hi guality something Im very interested in.
Good job thank you for information.
So nothing else is holding the studs in place? You just press them in and not worry about the swedge?
Thanx for this nice vid,very helpful,and interesting.But when i search for "Dana 44 rear axel",according to replace the bearing,sealshaft....Where can i find the exat info,about the specific axel? and bearings...Thanx again;))
Thank you for the direction- most helpful -I have the same amount of play after shimming as recommended and, to be clear it is the same on both sides- it is a Dana 44 tapered shaft axle. Is this correct?
Hi, I noticed that your Willys shim setup is quite similar to my J trucks Dana 53 with tapered axles. Thanks for the clarity. I did not know the brake backing plate could be pre-assembled with brake shoes l Great job describing how you work on Jeeps. I learn a lot from your videos. Will rapping on the opposite shafts seat the bearing s on a limited slip differential? I have the POWER LOK option in a Dana 53.
Great step by step instruction. Did you buy the 11" brake upgrade kit already assembled or put it together your self?
Thanks for the great video. I have a 48 Willys Truck with the Timken axle would the process be the same as you showed here regarding how you hit the axles to drive the cup out and then shim to .006?
Hi Brian when doing pinion rotation tork are the bearing wet or dry also carrier bearings wet or dry gear oil or engine oil thanks
light coat of gear oil when doing rotational torque
Hi there. Great videos for the DIY mechanics. Do you have a video prior to this stage where you remove/reinstall the inner seals and cone bearing etc? Before the Cup goes on and this video picks up?
I wonder if a disc brake set up could be Frankenstiened on to my little monster. (basically a willys chasis go cart) I live in the mountains. Real steep ones.
Brian, do you know if Dana 41 rear hubs are interchangeable with Dana 44 rear hubs? They look very similar to me. Thanks.
yes, same hub.
does the long shoe go to the rear or front im asking because i trust your expertise on a 1946 cj2a
Yet another super helpful and thorough video. Thanks! I did have a question - the 11" drum brake kit I purchased from Herm the Overdrive Guy uses recycled backing plates, and thus the "7th hole" drain hole does not quite line up correctly to give the full diameter as all the other holes - there's maybe 1/8th of the hole diameter that goes through. Is this going to be an issue, should I drill the hole out?
Drill out the hole to make it perfect.
I'm putting together a '68 cj5 I bought completely disassembled. I'm following your videos as I do the work. The rear axle came with the drums and axles removed, but the diff gears in place. I replaced the pinon seal. The driver's side axle had a 1/8" wobble in the middle so I bought a new one. I followed your previous video of installing the seals, axle bearings, axles, and races and now I'm at the point in this video of adjusting the play. Unfortunately, there is no in/out axle play. I haven't installed the shims or backing plate yet. What could be the problem? The differential has a Powr-Lok and 4.88 gearing. The axles are pretty hard to turn by hand. Everything seems to turn easily, though, if I turn the yoke.
you may have the bearing cups in too tight right now. the shims allow the axle shaft cups to come out of the housing a little bit so that you have end play. Install the shims and tap the axleshafts like you saw in the video, that will set your cups at the proper location. you must have some end play or you will overheat and ruin the bearings.
Brian, If a guy wanted to have locking hubs on the rear (I flat tow), what all would be involved in converting to locking hubs? I already have 11 inch brakes and have the Dana 44 (3A) if that matters. Thank you.
Tom, you can find all the parts you need from Herm the overdrive guy. Don't try to find parts and pieces to make it work, just get the spindles, axles, hubs, etc.. from a source and install it. Search for herm the overdrive guy and give him a call. Tell him that Brian sent you and he will have many different kits available for your vehicle and budget. Pick what works best for you. It is a very easy installation when you have the proper parts.
I am having a hard time finding the correct size race for my 46 CJ2A with the Dana 41. I ordered the bearings and race from Napa and the new bearing with the old race fits like it should, but the new race (same part number as the old one) doesn't fit right. Any suggestions on where to get the correct parts?
Great video! I have a 47 CJ2A and have been researching brake upgrades recently. A lot of folks are doing the conversion with 95 Geo Tracker discs and calipers. There’s a guy named Brennan Metcalf who sells the mounting brackets from his website. If I remember correctly I read that the conversion can be done for about $125 per wheel. I’m curious to know if you have done this conversion before and how it compares to the 11” drum upgrade in price, performance, and difficulty of installation?
You can see me prepping axles in some of my newest videos, for the disc brake conversion. Disc or 11" drum is up to you, I prefer the 11" drum conversion but a lot of guys are having good luck with the disc brake conversion. Just a personal preference.
your videos are great, on one of them you mentioned that we should purchase quality parts to restore a jeep. can you give me a good soars for parts? right now I am repuilding a steering gear on my cj2a jeep.
Best place for quality parts is Pete Debella Jeep Parts. 631 874 8660
Give him a call and tell him that Brian from youtube told you to call. He will get you the quality parts you need.
At the end of your Willys Jeep Rear Axle Rebuild, Axle shaft installation video there looked to be about 3/16" play in the axle. At the start of this video, there was very little play.
What was the difference?
My reason for asking is I have put all new axles and bearings in my Dana 44 (67 CJ5) but I have the same 3/16" of end play on both axles. No shims installed.
I pulled the axles back out and compared them to the originals. They are the same.
Bearings are 0.996 tall.
Any suggestions on what to look for? It seems as though I need to put a spacer behind the bearings to take up the play.
There is always a lot of play when both bearings are not seated all the way. Then you take your time and shim them to give the correct end play. Also make sure you didn't leave out or forget your center block in the carrier. Both axles will hit that and play a part in your end play. Some axles are shimmed on both sides, others just on one side. Start on one side and get it set, then move to the other side and add or subtract shims to get proper set up. Take your time and get it right and you will have a quiet rear axle that will last for a long time. Any further questions feel free to email me directly. Brian
Awesome helpful videos..
about to tear into a d44.. when removing the hub, do I have to get the key out first, or will the key come out with a hub puller?
Thanks!
The key will come out when you pull the hub. No way to get it out before pulling, so just install your puller and get it done.
Brian
Nice job...!
Thanks!
So does adding shims increase or decrease the end play. If i have too much play do I add or subtract shims? Thanks
Take shims out to decrease end play.
I have a 52 willys and received a set of 11 in. brakes from a 68 wagoneer. I am watching this vid to see how to do a swap.. Any suggestions?
take your time, make sure you get the end play correct, then bolt on your brake assembly and enjoy the benefits of 11" brakes.
What kind of paint did you use on the frame? it looks nice!
Right now the frame is only in primer, no finish paint yet. I use Epoxy primer on all my parts and recently started using SPI Epoxy Primer. You can search on the internet to find them. Great company and the products they offer are great. Frame gets 3 coats of epoxy, along with all other attaching parts, then once all is together a top coat of my own blend of black paint. You will see it in future videos in finish paint.
Excellent
Would like to buy a gal of knuckle lube and 3 sets 134 rear round rubber seals how do I purchase?
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a lubricant list
is there a torque spec for the six bolts holding the backing plate?
what 11" kit would you recommend? or do you cobble it together yourself?
Ryan, you can put the entire kit together yourself if you have a donor vehicle to get all the parts off of. Or you can buy everything. there are a bunch of companies that sell the kits and the prices vary like crazy. A great kit for the best price can be purchased from Herm the overdrive guy. Just search for him like that, herm the overdrive guy. give him a call and tell him Brian sent you there and he will have everything you need.
Never knew the key went in like this thanks. Also do you put it in completely dry?
just a light coat of oil on key before you put it in.
metalshaper Ok thanks this is a big help. Enjoyed the video!
11:57 The Police - Message in the bottle. :) good taste in music
What size wheel do you need to use with the brake upgrade?
standard 16 inch factory wheels work fine.
I am pulling my 44 apart and noticed that on my driver side, I don't have a Rear Axle Bearing Retainer plate. Is that normal? Do I need need one, if not for support?
dm8528 yes you need a plate on both sides. Retains the bearing and axle assembly.
@@metalshaperJeep Oh this gets better and better. I pulled off the axle wheel hub and key and the hub is split per your video comment, the key is rounded as well as the axle shaft key slot. So glad you made that comment because I specifically looked for the crack. Thanks so much for the little comments like that in your videos.
Does the shoe with the longer pad go towards the rear? Am I seeing that correctly? Thank you!
on the 11" self adjusting brakes the long shoe goes to the rear. If you were doing original brakes with anchor pins and manual adjustment the long shoe goes to the front.
Hello! I am starting to gather the parts for an 9" to 11" drum brake conversion on my 1964 CJ3B. Do you have an email to where I can send you the pics of the backing plates I recently acquired, so you can confirm if the are for front (which I was told), and use them for rear as well? They sure look the same as what you have installed on the rear, and I have access for 2 more of these... Appreciate your assistance. Best regards, Jorge
you can reach me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Hello Brian! Did you get my email yesterday? Thanks!
yes, photos came thru. front and rear are the same, just wondering what vehicle you got the backing plates off of.
What is the toque specs for the 6 3/8 bolts that hold the backing plates on?
I set them to 32 to 35 ft. pounds, with medium strength thread locker.
Great video. Very informative. How or where can I obtain an 11 inch break conversion with backing plates - complete assemblies?
you can get 11" brake kits from Herm the overdrive guy, or Woody's. Just search for them on the internet and you will find what you need.
👍
Inner oil seal photo pls
Hi Brian, do you have another platform like Instagram etc? Would like to send you some pics of my jeep over here in South Africa
Please send photos to metalshaper@comcast.net
Thanks, Brian
on voudrais des explications en francais s v p.
It would be nice to know how to reach you VIA E-Mail!
Jack in Pennsylvania
you can reach me anytime at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
uh, that would have been "two Jeeps".