lol wrong way!! you have 2 options to do that with the motor 1. vcds/obdeleven and activate breake change mode or 2. it gives a tool to drill the piston back, but your way is stupid
Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
I used a battery charger on the 12V 2amp setting. Worked perfect. I would add that instead of saying the negative goes on the “left side”, the negative goes on the flat side of the connector housing. Thanks for the quick and simple solution!
DUDE ... You ARE the Man ! Thank You ! I've been trying to figure this crap out for a while without having to buy the $200+ tool in order to replace the $25 brake pads. Plus, your advice up front where you inform those that might not know how to jack-up the car & remove the wheel that they should let someone else do it is ...PERFECT ! Thanks Again !
Hello, maybe you can watch my video and develop a new idea! Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
Great video, thanks for providing this as I hate buying a tool just for one job or god forbid going to the dealer for anything 🤮 Worked flawlessly on our newer 2022 Taos. I believe someone else posted that you just use the flat side of the connector to locate the negative terminal, that was great info! Ended up using alligator clipped wires on the motor prongs w/ a plastic knife in between the clips so no chance to short them. Connected the positive to a positive jumper cable (connected to the VW battery) and the negative I just touched to the negative jumper clamp for about 10 seconds.Very easy to remove the connector from the caliper w/ a small screwdriver to pry the clip and another to pry the connector from the caliper.
I found a way that worked for me. I disconnected the battery then pushed in the caliper piston all the way with a bessy clamp. It took 5 times each time it would stay in a bit more. After a few lights came on the dash had to drive around for 1 min pumped the breaks a few times. Then turn the suv of and on. They work great. Works great if you don’t have a buster or scared of shorting something out. Thanks for this vid
Thank you so much buddy, this tutorial helped me a lot. I was fighting with the calipter like crazy, i even bent my retraction tool, but after i watched this it was basicly plug and play. I didnt have the battery charger, but i was able to do it with 2 jumpercables. This vid saved me a ton of money :p Thanks again
If you don't have the 12 volt and wire etc, you can unbolt the electronic brake motor and you will see the gear. use a 10 MM socket and turn it counter clockwise to pull the rod back. Then compress the piston as you would any other brake
You can also manually take off the EPB motor off of the caliper, just 2 bolts and use a 9 mm socket and remove it back manually with out a jumper box or wires
hey doing mine this weekend awesome video and thanks for the help. only part im not sure of was the parking brake 3 times thing never heard that part before, maybe quick video showing?
No real need for a video, it's pretty simple. Inside the car there is an electronic parking brake switch. Usually it's next to the shift knob, and has the letter P inside of a circle on it. Once you've replaced the pads and have put everything back together, get in the car and start it up. Then simply put your foot on the brake pedal and pull up on the parking brake switch once to activate the parking brake. Once it is set, a red "BRAKE" message will show on the dash confirming that its set, after that you just press down on the switch once to disengage the brake. Then repeat that process two more times. On, off, On, off. Then you're done It just ensures that the parking brake is set in the proper position and functioning properly.
@@GoofysBandit Haha , for some reason i thought you said something else but re watched the video and figured out what you said. just never deleted the comment. thanks for the reply though and the video super informative and helpful!
Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
The connector on the motor can be removed with two straight screwdrivers. If you put one in the square hole on the side of the connector and twist it, it will cause the plastic catch to lift above the tab. You can see it lift if you look in the bottom of the two holes. Then, at the same time, gently lever off with another straight screwdriver. Thought I’d mention it as it might save someone busting the connector trying to get it removed.
so even if you don't activate the electronic parking break you still need to do this or take it to a vw/audi mechanic? cause I have a 2013 cc and ik I have to manually activate the electronic parking brake with the switch... can I not just have the parking brake off and do them like normal?
No. It doesn't matter if the parking brake is active or not when you start the job, you will still have to rewind it. When you deactivate the parking brake using the switch, it doesn't unwind itself fully. It only unwinds a couple of millimeters, and just enough to release pressure from the pads. I wouldn't activate it before you start the job though, as it might make removing the caliper more difficult if the parking brake is applying contant pressure
Thats a caliper press. You use it to push the Caliper back into position so that you can fit the new brake pads in. You can buy one at any auto parts store. You will need it it to change the brake pads
No. Once you install the brake pads, and reinstall the caliper, you need to activate the emergency brake two or three times in the car. This will make sure the emergency brake is reset
No, because as your pads wear down the electronic parking brake piston follows them. It is never fully retracted when it's "disengaged". It follows right behind the brake pad because if it was in a fully retracted position at all times during driving or parking, then it would take a long time for the motor to wind out the piston to actually put pressure on the pads, holding the car in place. It only ever sits a few millimeters off the pads. Otherwise everytime you pulled up on the parking brake, you would sit there and listen to that motor whirring for like 20 seconds before it ever actually made contact with the pads. Thats why when you activate the brake, you onky hear it whir for like 1 or 2 seconds, before stopping. Because its in a constantly primed position, ready to apply pressure at a moments notice. Same goes for driving, the parking brake when held up during driving can be used as an "emergency brake" in a dangerous situation. And in order for it to slow the car down quickly when you pull up the button, the piston has to already be out and near the pad in order to almost immediately begin slowing the car down. Otherwise again, you would pull up on the button and have to wait 20 seconds before the car actually began slowing down, if the piston had to engage from a constantly retracted postion. Sorry for the rant.
Great video,i have to do this on a friends car and man i have never seen a subject that has more than 400 different ways to do it. I have seen people remove the motor,seen others leave the car running and disconnect the cable to the EPB motor then turning the car off (dont understand this one very well) i have seen others do what your doing,seen others go thru a very complicated procedure to put the vehicle in service mode,others use a scanner, others said dont do what you are doing or a light and a chime will come on that can only be turned of at the dealer, others will say you dont need a jump box but a 9 volt battery or even a D battery will work,lol,others will remove the motor and use a Torx bit to "wind back" the motor and then "wind it back" before you put everything together, holy cow talk about skinning a cat, ha ha ha ha ha
Thanks. And yes there are many different ways of going about it. This is the easiest if you dont have the super expensive computer. And yes even a small C or D battery should work.
@@GoofysBandit Hey there, i did have another question about this before i tango with it this weekend and again i think your way is the best way, however i was wondering... when you turn your car off before you did this doesn't the parking brake engage automatically for safety at turnoff making it impossible for you to remove the caliper like you did or does the VW EPB allow you to turn the parking brake off before you turn your car off and it stays disengaged? thank you again for any input.
@@dntlss Before I turned the vehicle off I just ensured the Parking brake was off by pressing the button down. I didnt have any difficulty taking off the caliper.
lol wrong way!! you have 2 options to do that with the motor 1. vcds/obdeleven and activate breake change mode or 2. it gives a tool to drill the piston back, but your way is stupid
Your an absolute star. Spent 5 hours on the first caliper before I came upon your video. The second was done in 20 mins.
Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
I used a battery charger on the 12V 2amp setting. Worked perfect. I would add that instead of saying the negative goes on the “left side”, the negative goes on the flat side of the connector housing. Thanks for the quick and simple solution!
I heard that using anything other than the computer might triggers the check engine light. Have you had that?
@@117raph I had no CEL issues. The motor retracted and all was well. I compressed the caliper piston, installed my pads & rotors and all is well!
@@robslist5562 Cool, thanks! I'm gonna try it
Thanks for that little tip, have a new 2022 VW Taos and that connector has a flat side too, and it's negative :)
DUDE ... You ARE the Man ! Thank You ! I've been trying to figure this crap out for a while without having to buy the $200+ tool in order to replace the $25 brake pads.
Plus, your advice up front where you inform those that might not know how to jack-up the car & remove the wheel that they should let someone else do it is ...PERFECT !
Thanks Again !
Hello, maybe you can watch my video and develop a new idea!
Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
Great video, thanks for providing this as I hate buying a tool just for one job or god forbid going to the dealer for anything 🤮
Worked flawlessly on our newer 2022 Taos. I believe someone else posted that you just use the flat side of the connector to locate the negative terminal, that was great info!
Ended up using alligator clipped wires on the motor prongs w/ a plastic knife in between the clips so no chance to short them. Connected the positive to a positive jumper cable (connected to the VW battery) and the negative I just touched to the negative jumper clamp for about 10 seconds.Very easy to remove the connector from the caliper w/ a small screwdriver to pry the clip and another to pry the connector from the caliper.
I found a way that worked for me. I disconnected the battery then pushed in the caliper piston all the way with a bessy clamp. It took 5 times each time it would stay in a bit more. After a few lights came on the dash had to drive around for 1 min pumped the breaks a few times. Then turn the suv of and on. They work great. Works great if you don’t have a buster or scared of shorting something out. Thanks for this vid
Great video. BIG HELP. Repair shop wants $350 to put new pads on. Thank you
That's actually cheap..went to dealership and they want 700+ just for rear brakes .it's just a golf R with this crazy e-brake tech on it
@@carbonio28 i was just told $775 at a vw dealership on the east coast. I told them to pound sand.
Thank you for this, dude. You've undoubtedly saved people thousands of dollars with this. 🤙🏿
This worked on my 2018 Tiguan. I used a 12 volt lawn tractor battery and multimeter leads. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much buddy, this tutorial helped me a lot.
I was fighting with the calipter like crazy, i even bent my retraction tool, but after i watched this it was basicly plug and play.
I didnt have the battery charger, but i was able to do it with 2 jumpercables.
This vid saved me a ton of money :p
Thanks again
Thank you so very much.you have saved me a little fortune here 🤑🤑🤑Dealership wants around 700+ tax for rear brakes..a bit too much for what it is 👀
This was super helpful! Thanks! You saved me a ton of grief!
Quick question, if I don't have access to a jump box can I just connect jumper cables to the battery and attach the multimeter leads to those ?
Absolutely. That will work just fine 👍🏻
If you don't have the 12 volt and wire etc, you can unbolt the electronic brake motor and you will see the gear. use a 10 MM socket and turn it counter clockwise to pull the rod back. Then compress the piston as you would any other brake
Thanks! I was looking to see if I could manually move the brake motor without setting a mil off onthe dash. Appreciate it!
Great video when compress the piston in does it have to turn to compress in or do what you did?? And thanks for you video.
Superb informative video Austin , never thought about the electric rewind, thanks mate.
Thanks partner
You can also manually take off the EPB motor off of the caliper, just 2 bolts and use a 9 mm socket and remove it back manually with out a jumper box or wires
Thanks for making this video, it helped me a lot and continues making video without having to explain so much slime
hey doing mine this weekend awesome video and thanks for the help. only part im not sure of was the parking brake 3 times thing never heard that part before, maybe quick video showing?
No real need for a video, it's pretty simple. Inside the car there is an electronic parking brake switch. Usually it's next to the shift knob, and has the letter P inside of a circle on it. Once you've replaced the pads and have put everything back together, get in the car and start it up. Then simply put your foot on the brake pedal and pull up on the parking brake switch once to activate the parking brake. Once it is set, a red "BRAKE" message will show on the dash confirming that its set, after that you just press down on the switch once to disengage the brake. Then repeat that process two more times. On, off, On, off. Then you're done
It just ensures that the parking brake is set in the proper position and functioning properly.
@@GoofysBandit Haha , for some reason i thought you said something else but re watched the video and figured out what you said. just never deleted the comment. thanks for the reply though and the video super informative and helpful!
Do both sides of the cars have this motor or just one wheel ?
Nice job man!
Here is a video of me using a diagnostic device to apply the electronic throttle to a 2014 Audi Q5: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html , you can watch it, it may help you.
The connector on the motor can be removed with two straight screwdrivers. If you put one in the square hole on the side of the connector and twist it, it will cause the plastic catch to lift above the tab. You can see it lift if you look in the bottom of the two holes. Then, at the same time, gently lever off with another straight screwdriver. Thought I’d mention it as it might save someone busting the connector trying to get it removed.
Excellent video man
so even if you don't activate the electronic parking break you still need to do this or take it to a vw/audi mechanic? cause I have a 2013 cc and ik I have to manually activate the electronic parking brake with the switch... can I not just have the parking brake off and do them like normal?
No. It doesn't matter if the parking brake is active or not when you start the job, you will still have to rewind it. When you deactivate the parking brake using the switch, it doesn't unwind itself fully. It only unwinds a couple of millimeters, and just enough to release pressure from the pads. I wouldn't activate it before you start the job though, as it might make removing the caliper more difficult if the parking brake is applying contant pressure
By the way if you don't have a 12V source, you can most likely apply a much lower voltage than 12 V to the motor and it will turn (albeit slower).
or a higher one-i use a 18v battery ,dosnt matter
I did the same w a 9v and 2 wires.
I use a star bit to loosen it. It’s on the back
That was f-Ing brilliant!
Awesome
Wait.. what's that crank thing at the very end??
Thats a caliper press. You use it to push the Caliper back into position so that you can fit the new brake pads in. You can buy one at any auto parts store. You will need it it to change the brake pads
@@GoofysBandit Just got one! Thanks, Austin
Also, just want to say to everyone, this also worked for me!
Could probably do the same thing with a power probe as well
do you not have to wind it back in with the cables?
No. Once you install the brake pads, and reinstall the caliper, you need to activate the emergency brake two or three times in the car. This will make sure the emergency brake is reset
Serious question, couldn't you just set the key to on and put the car in neutral?
No, because as your pads wear down the electronic parking brake piston follows them. It is never fully retracted when it's "disengaged". It follows right behind the brake pad because if it was in a fully retracted position at all times during driving or parking, then it would take a long time for the motor to wind out the piston to actually put pressure on the pads, holding the car in place. It only ever sits a few millimeters off the pads. Otherwise everytime you pulled up on the parking brake, you would sit there and listen to that motor whirring for like 20 seconds before it ever actually made contact with the pads. Thats why when you activate the brake, you onky hear it whir for like 1 or 2 seconds, before stopping. Because its in a constantly primed position, ready to apply pressure at a moments notice.
Same goes for driving, the parking brake when held up during driving can be used as an "emergency brake" in a dangerous situation. And in order for it to slow the car down quickly when you pull up the button, the piston has to already be out and near the pad in order to almost immediately begin slowing the car down. Otherwise again, you would pull up on the button and have to wait 20 seconds before the car actually began slowing down, if the piston had to engage from a constantly retracted postion. Sorry for the rant.
I fucking love you.
Great video,i have to do this on a friends car and man i have never seen a subject that has more than 400 different ways to do it.
I have seen people remove the motor,seen others leave the car running and disconnect the cable to the EPB motor then turning the car off (dont understand this one very well) i have seen others do what your doing,seen others go thru a very complicated procedure to put the vehicle in service mode,others use a scanner, others said dont do what you are doing or a light and a chime will come on that can only be turned of at the dealer, others will say you dont need a jump box but a 9 volt battery or even a D battery will work,lol,others will remove the motor and use a Torx bit to "wind back" the motor and then "wind it back" before you put everything together, holy cow talk about skinning a cat, ha ha ha ha ha
Thanks. And yes there are many different ways of going about it. This is the easiest if you dont have the super expensive computer. And yes even a small C or D battery should work.
@@GoofysBandit I agree,seems very clean and foolproof, thank you much for your reply.
@@GoofysBandit Hey there, i did have another question about this before i tango with it this weekend and again i think your way is the best way, however i was wondering... when you turn your car off before you did this doesn't the parking brake engage automatically for safety at turnoff making it impossible for you to remove the caliper like you did or does the VW EPB allow you to turn the parking brake off before you turn your car off and it stays disengaged? thank you again for any input.
@@dntlss Before I turned the vehicle off I just ensured the Parking brake was off by pressing the button down. I didnt have any difficulty taking off the caliper.