Bypassing the Electronic Parking Brake was easy when Replacing the rear Brakes on 2013 Audi A4.
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Hello UA-cam. Eddie here. I know it's been a while since you have heard from me, and I apologize. I relocated to a new state due to a new job and did not have a workshop. I plan to convert my two-car garage into a workshop along with a 12x20 outbuilding. Before I convert my garage into a workshop, I need to use it to fix my car. Audi Dealer wanted over $7,700 to fix problems with my 2013 Audi A4, so I decided to try and fix them myself. This video isn't a woodworking video, but I think you will find it interesting, and yes, you will let me know if it is not...you always do, lol...Lastly, Do not do what I do, DO NOT rely on this video to make your own repairs...I am not a professional and have no idea if I am doing things correctly. I tip my hat to all of you real, professional mechanics out there...this is hard work that require smarts and creativity, so cheers to you all. Enjoy the video. Thanks guys.
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So glad I ran across this awesome trick you came up with. 1st time dealing with an electronic brake and didn't know what I should do about it. Ingenious! Thank you.
Glad it helped friend
Awesome! I’ve used a cable like that for an indoor plug 🔌 to test lights and motors! Perfect for this as well. Thanks for the video. I’m doing my ‘11 Q5 soon.
Thank you for the trick to bypass the electronic brake. I had no clue why I couldn’t close it with a C clamp. Watched other videos and no help, fancy computer or alternant battery supply, etc. The cost was inexpensive, took me no longer than 10 minutes to make besides the drive to the store. Worked super fast. Thank you for the video:))))
Very good. Thanks for posting and doing it in real time. 👍🙂🏴
Oh, the kiss method and already have the battery ,wire clamps and butt joint connectors ! Thanks and I love American ingenuity👍🏻👍🏻 have a blessed day!🙏🏼🙏🏼
You are a genius. It worked perfectly. Only thing I changed was I used shorter wires and hooked them up to a drill 18v battery. It worked very well.
Well done - descriptions and your cable idea and seating the rear pads by power afterwards - perfect!
Thank you friend
I used the 9 volt battery method someone described here and that worked great. Took 2 copper tops to do both, but worked like a charm!
Thank you for sharing. Fighting with getting the OBD just for the electronic brake. This is easy!
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 Excellent video... I have to watch and like all your videos now. Working on my car and newbie wood working are my favorite things to do. I'll probably even hit the bell for you🤗 Thank you
You the Girl!
What a great tip, well done mate
Very smart I will follow your ideas to do it . Thanks
very educative and clear pictures thank you. regards
Just like to say many thxs for your video on you tube how to by pass the EPB I watched it and followed what you did and BINGO all done and back on the road 👍👍👍👍👍👍
How do u kno what side on the plug is pos and which is neg..?? Plz help
This process can be done as fallow; Turn on the ignition, Step on accelerator pedal, press down at the some time the parking brake switch, keeping them in such position for some seconds, then turn off the ignition, then turn ignition on. Now the parking brake is released. Turn off the ignition, and replace the rear pads. To return the parking brake in its working position: Turn on the ignition, step on the accelerator pedal, pull up the parking brake switch as in position, to stop the car, keep them in such position for some seconds, then turn off the ignition, then turn on the ignition. Now the parking brake is in its working position.
Does this really work? I was wondering why it couldn't just be done more manually, or something like this, seeing as how the connector already has power to it while connected
Beautiful very good clean and clear video
Thank you friend
Thanks for the info.....great video.............Thanks........JB.
Awesome job
Because you are so smart, a thinker, I had to subscribe and like. I have a Black Audi A6 4.2L Quattro
Thank you friend. I hope you like woodworking, lol.
Great video! But did you know that if you want to save yourself the time and money to make the battery connection cable, you can simply take the two T30 bolts off the back of the EPB(which is attached to the calipers), and using a T40 torx bit, you can rotate the motor clockwise until it stops. Then re-attached the EPB housing with the two T30 bolts, and finally, depress the piston with your tool of choice . This method takes maybe 5 minutes tops, because you're only unbolting two bolts and then turning the motor by hand with the T40 bit.
My brak padal going down after change break pad
What is problem
Please help
I'll need to remember this! Thank you
Yeah, I tried releasing those bolts, but 12 years of crud under car, was impossible! So I made a shorter version if this guy's wire and used it with jumper cables to release it electrically!
His way of making the cable is better and smarter and simple.... kudos to the hack.
The way this guy did it is very safe way to do rear break but one problem is you of to remember the which way you of to touch wires on to motor not wrong way other why you burn motor
great content. gonna make some wire next.
awesome buddy, Thanks
Cheers mate 👍 would of like to see you flick the switch at the end
Dude thank you! This gave me confidence to try it on my own. I was wondering if you could just use the cars battery as well given that it's just a 12v system.
Thanks for the video, it has inspired me to do it myself on my Audi. I was under the impression is was a little more complicated. They quoted me $1600 as well >_
Me too...but then I was thinking "Hey, I have already have a battery" You can make that jumper cable for like $10 bucks.
Bonne idee bravooo et merci
I used a 18volt drill battery and it worked perfect.
Can someone please tell me which wires should be power or ground to retrofit these 2007 D2 A8L calipers to another car? Which of the smaller wires are signal/trigger wires to activate the electromagnetic solenoid and clamp the rotor? Thank you
Yes. There is a way to put the calipers into "service mode". They retract the pads so you don't destroy the drive gear by forcing it with a C Clamp. And, I'm quite sure when V.W. does a brake job, they don't cut the wire going to the EPB drive motor. I would google "V.W. rear brake service mode".
Grate job
Good tip but I wouldn’t put a clamp on the plastic motor housing
even you don't need c clam. once you rewind the callipe,r put screw driver in between rotor and pads it will easily push back calliper .
Wondering if it is possible to use a 12v tool battery to make access easier...thoughts ?
Good god your making hard work of this video
What do you mean?
Will this work with 2015 A5 quattro sline. Reverse polarity. Meaning switching positive negative to contacts. Lastly your brilliant thank you
Hi, My EPB on rear left caliper is not engaging and I am going to replace the actuator. I guess I don't need to retract the piston or something like that right? as the parking brake is not activated so can I simply replace the actuator without any retraction and scan tool?
Should have cleaned and greased the caliper slide pins..... i use an electric transformer from an HO train that gives you the 14 fifteen volts to retract the EPB motor.... any how good job.
My break padal going down
After change break pad
What is problem
Please help
Well done. Good video.. Cheers nice n clear.. A.A.
That is safe all part ?
I wonder how often is electronic parking brake malfunction and you have to replace Electronics switch from the caliper or the whole computer seems like they just designed the stuff so people have to spend money
Great job sir, thank you for the video. I have a a 2015 A3 and from changing a rear flat tire it looks very similar to your car. I think I may go and replace all rotors and do the next brake job myself after watching your video and others. Also, where did you get the rotors and pads from? Again, thank you for the video
Thank you for the kind word friend, I purchased everything from Autozone
You can also unbolt the electronic brake mechanism and wind back the part that sits inside of calliper by hand, then press piston back in with no issue - takes less than 5 minutes.
Well, this winds it back with electricity, much faster.
@@TheWoodworkingHack but you need to make a cable, connect to the plug and battery. taking of two screws 30 second, pop it of 10 seconds, wind back 60 seconds - total 5 minutes for both. No need to make cable or play with anything.
once you press the piston back,put it back together and pump the brakes?
12v power supply?
I wonder if you left the car ignition on and chuck the wheels so it doesn't role back especially if its on jacks and disengaged the electric parking hand brakes can you then depressed the caliper with out doing all the other extra work thats on videos 🤔
Thanks
OTTIMO!!
Nice tip, but how can one be sure to get the polarity correct the first time so that the DC motor spins the mechanism to retract and not tighten. Or is that not worthwhile?
You will figure it out in about 5 seconds.
question when you release the parking brake (from inside the car) is it NOT same as doing it from a separate source and touching the 2 terminal) .thanks you
Releasing the parking brake with the button inside the car only releases the brakes enough so the car will drive. It won't wind the mechanism back far enough to install new pads.
What causes the breke pedal to be lose if there is no leak in the fluid during the brake replacement? It feel like i have to brake further away than before when i did a test drive. I don't think I need to bleed it do I?
Some how u got air in the brake system. If pedal has to be pressed deeper and if it feels "Spongy" air in the system for sure. Bleeding is a must.
Don't you need the software to reset the calibration so that the caliper motor is adjusted to the thickness of the new pads?
All I know is that when the electronic brake is engaged, the wheels don't budge. When the electronic brake is off, the wheels spin freely, without resistance. Not sure if calibration would change this.
I just fix the flashing parking brake sign.. maybe it's just specific models mine is a 2015 Q5. What I did is
1. set the parking brake "ON"
2. Then turn off car
3. Unplug and run the motor to wear the piston is all the way back ready to accept a new pad.
4. When the pads are in and caliper is tight. Then run the motor back up to tight again. (Manually engage parking brake)
I'm not sure why I was having problems maybe the car new that the motor was set in a different place or was too far off from the previous. Not sure but I did the other side with these steps and didn't have any issue.
Good luck everyone
so turn the car ON and depress the parking brake button and press it back afterwards?
Or plug an aux plug on the cable and just plug into socket in car
Do you need to release the parking brake before you start? or Leave it on?
release it speed things up. it may not release fully but you will be able to take the caliper off at that.
Do you have to wind it back after you are all done or will the car do it for you when you start it back up?
Have to wind it back yourself
When connected to the battery and the motor is winding back can you go to far, how do you know when to stop?
When unwinding the motor will keep going, I did not have any problems as it was spinning for quite some time. when winding it back, you will hear and feel when it is at the end.
Isn’t there a setting that you can choose to put the brakes on maintenance mode so it makes it so it isn’t engaged and just comes off? Didn’t have to do this with my A4.
Yeah, that sounds like the only obviously sane design. Apparently ze Germanz are loosing their marbles.
You can use 12 volt fire alarm battery, around 10 bucks
Eddie, did you have any warnings coming up that you needed to clear with an OBD computer? I guess reversing polarity on the leads and driving the motor back in was key
No warnings at all, thankfully.
wow good vid until you put the c-clamp on you had it on the gearbox you could have wrecked it better way is take the gearbox off 2 bolts and using a spanner wind the piston back then using a piston rewind tool push the piston back
Good video but you should have put antiseize on the hub so the the rotor doesnt get stuck on the hub and thebtire will not get stuck also but very good video also luke the fact you used axle stands safety first
Thank you friend
If dose get stuck get hammer out mate
9:40 you see that plastic clip in the centre of the panel you’re holding here? Flip it up, and then you can connect it to the weather stripping lining the trunk, allowing it to stay open.
I had no idea, thank you mate.
I would clean rust and put some anti seize grease no?
Got alot of faith in that plastic housing on the backside of the caliper
How so?
@@TheWoodworkingHack hate to crush it with the c clamp
@@justinbustin677 Oh it's actually not that much pressure. It worked out.
Is there a way to eliminate the parking brake and fool the car to think it’s working? I never use it and I don’t live in San Francisco!
Just disconnect the wire running to the EPB motor... and make sure the plunger is released from pushing the cup in the caliper......another electric add on from the engineers that is not needed. how hard is it to pull the manual lever or push the pedal on the floor for the emergency brake to work.... suggestion buy an anchor and throw it out the window after parking the vehicle...
Hello, I have a question, before start this process the parking brake was on or off?
It was on.
@@TheWoodworkingHack Would it cause any problems if the epb was off ?
Good question, i thinking that is the key to this job it must be on prior so it knows to back off. Not sure if it was explained in the video or not?
Hi, good vid, when you apply the power to the piston motor to wind it back can you go to far, I mean once its wound back fully do you have to listen for that and disconnect quickly?
Also on our 2017 audi a3 auto when the electronic brake is off you can rock the car, would the method you describe still be needed if the brake is off and the car moves slightly?
Cheers.
you can tell immediately when it's wound all the way
Where can I buy the cable
I got everything at Home Depot (Hardware and DIY Store in U.S)
might using a conventional 9v battery work? also, great camera work, good lighting,
Cars in general work on 12 volts electronic systems.
Trying anything different can possibly even mess with your car's ECU.
That could be an expensive mistake.
Did you get any computer error on the dash?? I’m half way there IMG_4775.HEIC
No, not at all, works like a champ.
“Let’s reverse the polarity” - that was DoctorWho’s solution to everything….
G clamp on motor housing is a no no
I could have saved $100 from buying a scan tool had I saw this video first.
When engaging my parking brake there is an awful squeal. Does anyone have some experience with this?
Parking brake is esactly that, a brake to use when the car is parked.
How is it possible to hear awful noises when the car is parked 🤔
I believe you've found a backdoor method to release the electric brake to change the brake pads. But that's not what is usually done. I believe you could rent an OBD2 scantool, or do some simple procedures with the brake button and key on procedure to tell the vehicle to release the griphold. Takes about 20 seconds to put vehicle in maintenance mode. Here>>ua-cam.com/video/RN_jjCtTRN8/v-deo.html
fuck you have to make a cable might as well get the computer the mechanics use to disengage the break. a little too much if you ask me. its simple to take disengage the motor by taking it off an with a T40 you can turn the motor to retract the piston with the help of a vise. no doubt many ways to skin a cat, tis way take too long.. have to make a cable for fucks sake ! thanks for making the video tho
Who works on stuff in decent mice clothes? If you say those are you bad clothes. Then god dam id hate to see what your top notch clothes look like and cost.
Couldn't you just leave the car in drive so the parking brake doesn't activate
It doesn’t matter if you activate it or not you will still have to retract it to change the pads. That’s the reason you activate the brake before you start, so when your done and you turn the parking break on and get it tight against the pads, its in the same position (on) as when you started. So when your done everything is still functioning the same as before, just now you have new brake pads.
I wish didn't have to do all this bullshit to change the brakes
Me too
Dude what's with all the damn commercials?? 😒
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You velly luky you no break plastic motor housing using that masif C clamp , you shud hav used a BIG screw driver to shove piston back in while sthil 😂 attached to car , My advice wood have been to spray yon WD STUFF 😂 around the flange of the disc and the hub unit to penetrate the corrosion for a couple of days before doing the job, THEN no need for the MASSIVE 56kilo hammer😂😂 but hay ho you got the job done and saved paying a garage bill 😊