EEVblog 1598 - ANENG AC11 Socket Tester TEARDOWN + SCHEMATIC Reverse Eng
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2024
- Teardown and reverse engineering of the ANENG AC11 Smart Mains Socket Tester + DaveCAD schematic.
Forum: www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/ee...
00:00 - ANENG AC11 Mains socket wiring tester
00:59 - Simple mains passive socket tester with neon bulbs
03:33 - Fluke ST240+ RCD Socket Tester
06:06 - Testing
07:14 - Teardown
10:54 - The multi colour segmented LCD
12:15 - Reverse Engineering Schematic
14:54 - Chipset Datasheet
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#ElectronicsCreators #Teardown #reverseengineering - Наука та технологія
One of those drove me nuts recently. The batteries were low and it started making faint beeping noises at random. It too me ages to find it because there was such a long delay between the random beeps.
DIY prank beeping device :D
Widlarizer time!
This happened with our smoke alarm. It started beeping about every hour all day and all night. It was impossible to figure out where the sound was coming from. My wife and I thought it was the microwave oven. Just when you fall asleep at night BEEP! Grrrr. Finally we called the landlord and he came and changed the battery :-)
I had the same experience. I replaced it with a silent Klein.
@@robinbrowne5419 I had that same problem. I had to take one of the smoke alarms off the ceiling and put it right beside me while I watched TV to find out if it was that one or the other one without having to stand in the hallway for 30 minutes.
Industrial Electrician in Sydney. You're correct, Dave, the Neutral and Earth in your building will be linked at the main switchboard then the submains to your individual tenancy will have 3P+N+E conductors. AS3000 forbids multiple MEN links within a single structure.
If the building was in NZ and built prior to ASNZS3000 being mandated here (roughly 2003), things might be different.
The old NZ way was to have both a neutral and earth from the main switchboard to the subboard, with an MEN link in the subboard. This was called a 'linked busbar switchboard'. Upside is you get a redundant neutral/earth and lower impedance; downside is you get ground bounce/rise from neutral current, not just neutral rise.
ASNZS3000 doesn't actually explicitly forbid multiple MEN links IIRC, just a blanket prohibition on current flowing in earthing conductors. Two transformers is a classic case where you would expect two MEN links.
Re Toshiba laptops from the mid 80s, I was a Uni lecturer in a non-STEM subject, but a keen computer hobbyist at the time. I persuaded my Head of Dept to buy me one. It cost a fortune. I was interrogated by the Purchasing Dept as to why I should have one, but in the end they relented. That plasma display may seem crappy now, but I can tell you that to switch it on in the presence of someone unfamiliar with them, with it's power up screen flashing bright orange before creating a skeleton rendering of the Space Shuttle, was to make them gasp in astonishment that such wonders existed in this world.
3:00 neon bulbs and resistors holding hands in harmony :3
Kum ba yah
When i was little, London got changed from DC to that fancy AC stuff - so Dad thought he'd have the 'Professionals*' over to do a rewire - I was a pretty keen kid, and as they were wrapping up I used their tester - "hey you've got live and neutral the wrong way" - 'don't matter - , its AC!"
I might have mentioned it once or twice but things got left, until...This coloured spotlight had a 'continental' 2 pin plug, meaning I had to stuff something in the earth pin of the shuttered 5 Amp UK socket - used a screwdriver, and BLAMMO!!! The silence of midnight pierced by an explosion in my hand
I don't move for a mo, and after the blinding flash, smoke clears to see plastic fragments and molten metal where plug and socket used to be... The Euro plug had an Earth strip, which had pinched into the flex, so the screwdriver had shorted the 'Neutral' to earth without ONE SINGLE FUSE between me and the company box!
So.. Its always good to check ;)
Dave, you know us, we ALWAYS want another teardown!
I'd very much like to see a teardown of the Fluke ST240+ to see how it compares.
Yes. It's bonded in the main of the building, just like a house. In the US we have isolation transformers everywhere dropping 480v to 208/240+120v so those transformers have to be bonded again because they are a new service in effect.
Throughout North America, ground must be bonded at the service entrance at the first means of disconnect. Ground must not be additionally bonded at any sub-panel as that would allow current return through that ground conductor segment.
The interesting thing about all of these testers is that you really don't know if "earth"/ground is really and truly "earthed". All you know is that the "earth" is connected to something.
@@tubastuff Which is fine as long as it's bonded at the main fuse panel. Having it bonded downstream would possibly defeat any RCD's, but since the earth wire doesn't pass through the RCD detection circuit, it doesn't matter where the PE/earth current ends up.
@@AnnaVannieuwenhuyse I'm not so sure about that. In the US, the 240V CT of the distribution transformer (for residential single-phase service) is supposed to be connected to a true earth ground. In the distribution panel, it's also bonded to the "neutral" and ground tracer wires. Should the external true earth ground fail, the possibility of a fault to a water pipe or other "true earth" ground goes undetected. When we have 240V devices, they're 120V-0-120V; i.e. both supply wires are "hot". Of course, this differs from most European countries, where one of the supply leads is neutral/earthed.
@@tubastuff what's before the main disconnect was not scope of my comment. I retain my position on what I said. 🙂
@@tubastuff And that's why all water pipes and similar are bonded to the building's electrical earth ground.
I'm using it since 2 years BC (before corona) really helps in trouble shooting instalation.
The RCD tester is basically what tells you whether you have a swapped neutral and earth. Although any device plugged into the outlet would trip the RCD either way.
Was just going to say the same thing!
You cannot have swapped earth and neutral with an RCD. It would trip immediately.
@@okaro6595 Exactly. That's the point. Well, not immediately, if no load is plugged into the outlet.
@@okaro6595 It would work fine as long as you wire the plug to match, I can see some people I know doing that if the socket was wired wrong :)
It took me a while to figure out how that could possibly work. I think I figured it out: if N and PE are swapped after the RCD then pressing the test button _won't_ cause a trip. I was coming from the North American perspective where our GFCIs are usually installed much closer to the load. Here that test is next to useless because the swap is most likely before the protective device.
@1:00 THATS WHERE MINE WENT! Lost mine about 10 years ago…it was a good little tester.
The DaveCAD made my day
If you don't you need to start watching big Clive. His channel brought me here
Interesting and complex, over-complicated even. I know about these 3 LED quick testers, that inspired me to build my own a few years ago and it comes in handy for quick tests when I do any wiring work.
I like the NCV feature. Nicely reverse-engineered too.
As for relying on anything with batteries in it, I always test the gear on known good cases before doing the proper test. Still, I'd design it with a supercap and mains-powered charging circuit.
I’ve got a Klein Tools tester for 120 vac outlets here in the US. It’s got a nice LCD display which is easy to read and the GFCI test tells how many mS it takes the GFCI to trip. I’m pretty sure the separate CORRECT and FAULT lights still work even if the batteries for the fancy functions go flat. It was only about 20 Yankee bucks, so barely more expensive than a sketchy no-name Chinese tester.
putting the switch through the hole in order to be able to load and solder the pcb from just one side is smart. Except that one led i guess, that one they probably handsoldered along with the battery terminal and stuff.
Looks like you could toss one of those paper (?) diffuser layers and make the LCD much brighter.
I would LOVE to see a demonstration and teardown of the Fluke ST 240 +.
Unfortunately here in Norway we use the IT (Isolated Terra) system,
so earth is at the midpoint between the two mains pins in the plug, type of wiring
(well older instalations use it, newer uses the standard TN wiring),
so this units will just show an error all the time.
thats pretty wild, I think I understand now why some new EVs have issues charging on AC in Norway!
I owned one of those and had to dispose of it as the bulbs which illuminated the display failed.
I used it at work testing extension cords on construction sites. Good unit overall, could have been tougher.
In the MEN system in Oz, the NE link is made on the main board, NEVER on sub boards.
I've had one of these for a few years, the LCD is bright on mine.
In Brazil, neutral and ground are connected close to where the wattmeter is. Unfortunately GFCI isn't mandatory (at least in family buildings).
I find cute the way Aussies and Brits rant about their outdated plugs with exposed pins are the best ones for domestic applications.
Actually, GFCI is mandatory in Brazil in all buildings. But only to selected circuits, though. It is usually installed in the form of a high sensitivity 30 mA residual current circuit breaker (RCCB) in the main electrical panel so as to protect the wiring and the sockets. Since the 1997 revision (now deprecated) of Brazilian Standard NBR5410, it states that all areas prone to water and condensation like bathrooms, kitchens and laundry must have their electrical sockets protected by a RCCB. The same is valid for all outdoor sockets, and to indoor sockets that can be reached and plugged into outdoor appliances.
Is Brazil using 127V P-E and 220V P-P?
@bluerizlagirl It depends where you live. Some cities, mostly the older ones, are 127V/220V (phase to neutral / phase to phase), while others are 220V/380V (phase to neutral / phase to phase). The whole country works at 60 Hz line frequency.
I have one of those since about 2 years and it served well so far for testing my self made electrical installation in our garden shed. Also my LCD is not that dim as is yours. But to be on the safe side I have a „dumb“ one too with just 3 LEDs to cross test. Never trust just a cheap Chinese thing only when it comes to mains voltage.
Hiya Dave, as a pommie electrician, I would never use a product like that at all. I wouldn't trust it. Personally I have the fluke you showed earlier in the video. For anything more complicated I would use my multifunctional testes (earth fault loop tester, IR tester, RCD tester, phase and volt tester). You will probably have a TNCS system and your earth will be tapped off the neutral from the transformer instead of the supply cable.
I'd want a short leaded one if this was my day job. Certainly wouldn't have one of these.
@@EEVblog the leads are removable on banana jacks. To be honest longer leads are better as you can test light fittings more easily by putting the tester around your neck and with your tongue in the right direction with one hand probe the LNE and the other press test
I see they also make it with Type F plug... but in the side-contact usage these plugs are symmetrical and there is no established L/N connection standard.
So it will display "incorrect" then you can just rotate it 180 degrees and it will display "correct".
Not very useful...
It tells other problems like missing earth. In Finland they also must have an LCD that tells voltage on the live contact when you touch the pad.
cdn.virtasenkauppa.fi/large/290-tb1slcd-pistorasiatesteri-schuko-1-testboy-51999-97667.jpg
Illegal DIY where people ave jumpered earth to the phase instead of neutral has killed three people in Finland since 1980.
is it just me or is the socket upside down
Bloody northern hemisphere models! Have to stand, bend over with your head upside down to read it in oz
Odds are that’s because that’s a Chinese socket not an Australian one as asserted in the video.
Hmmmm or it's a new fancy thing. As mentioned in Technology Connections channel, USA it's putting their plugs upside down as well, to make the earth, or ground, connector the first to be exposed in case of bad connection, ripping of the wall, etc.
No insulated pins, its not Australian. Its the Chinese plug which is the same but upside down.
@@quinks Patently incorrect. Everything in Australia is upside down. As Dave regularly states “if left upside down all the electrons will fall out”. This is a large problem in Australia, and thankfully Aneng corrects for this dangerous problem 👏
7:32 The Type C socket has been banned in Europe, but may still be found in Russia.
Type C plug is still available in Europe. This fits E, F, K, J and L. Also fits smaller UK Type C.
Unfortunately it was not possible to agree on a type E or F socket. But almost all devices have plugs type E+F.
This also fits into Type K sockets without connecting PE, which is why Denmark wants to switch to Type E.
South Korea also has type F.
Italy has types L and F. Greece Type F and another.
The Swiss type J does not fit Brazil's type N. It has failed to introduce Type J across Europe.
I think type D + M fits in South Africa and India.
Type H in Israel.
The British Isles have Type G and a smaller Type C in the bathroom. But the C sockets in UK also accept the European type C. However, the smaller UK Type C plug does not fit in Europe.
Types A and B belong to the US with 115V,
but there is also Type A in China with 220V.
C Sockets do still exist in Europe though in older homes if they were never replaced. In the Netherlands, I still see them from time to time.
After all we have a lot of old houses in the Netherlands.
I don't have one of this type, but there is a meaningful scenario that these battery powered ones can help with or at least theoretically, which is when you have one hot wire disconnected some distance back in the line and so your meter would read some induced voltage, probably low but could still easily be over 30v with no capacity to drive the circuits of these devices.
Scenario was I was using a fluke plug powered one for a wiring job in a out building and it took me a while to realise the fuse on one of the lines was blown before the box and my recent run was a-okay. Would have realized right away with a voltage reading and these plugs make it more certain your reading is making a good connection than a set of probes.
Editted just to say I have the exact fluke model you brought up. Would love to see you tear it down so I don't have to :)
Perhaps a seasoned electrician would have known instantly. I was baffled why my wand was going off but the plug checker was completely unpowered if not bad wiring. I'm lucky I happened to check voltage back at the box before redoing the junction wiring.
If you buy one of these to use frequently, make sure it has a short length of cord with a plug, like the cabac version, so much better to use!
Hey! I have a T3100 laptop... love that thing.
In Europe, we don't need those fancy things. We simply don't care about live and neutral, we only care about where the earth wire goes. 😋
I have 2 of those for US sockets and used them a few times for changing outlets a few times already .... mine have bright displays. They don't work with nimh batteries so make sure you have good 1.5V alkalines in there.
Live - earth reverse on those is likely a broken neural instead. If there is anything connected to the circuit and neutral broken, the device passes the voltage to the neutral. The tester sees only differences, not voltages to the actual earth. In Finland testers must have a metal pad you touch to detect voltage on the earth contact.
245v during office hours, we have 226v at night!
3216 resistors were the first SMDs I encountered, back in the 1990s, and I remember thinking they were tiny. The ones in this device look positively huge! How things have changed .....
In the US, the neutral and ground should be bonded at the first means of disconnect, after the meter
And only there! Otherwise a broken neutral will put line voltage on the grounding system.
In Australia Neutral and Earth are also bonded. However we tap each domestic leg off the 3-phase supply, not a split phase.
@@johncoops6897 You'll often see that in the US for commerical and industrial lighting circuits.
@@PaulSteMarie - often see what? A bonded Neutral, like used in many (Most?) other countries?
@@johncoops6897 Pulling a single phase from three phase, in the US for commerical/industrial lighting and general purpose outlets, in other places for residential hookups.
Dave, love the video mate. I recently purchased one of these (Also live in Australia) and it's not tripping any RCD's in my home. Did you also encounter the same problem? Cheers buddy 👍🏽
been carrying a Deta Power Outlet Tester Plug on my keys at work for about 25 years so long the once clear body of it now has a yellow tint to it only use to to tell if the GPO has power easier to use that than to wander around with an angle grinder
When I was doing housing I used Duspols exclusively. I know how to read it and I found it more convenient than a tester like this
@@gin3648 the duspols did all of that and the only requirement for testing an RCD in my country is to push the test button on the RCD
I couldn't use them in industrial electrical work, because I had everything from 24Vdc all the way to 33kV ac, so I stopped using Duspols and I've used a fluke ever since
Nice one 😁
At least this didn't drop during the NFL Halftime show.
Which is better?
@@EEVblog Your brain food is always better.
What satanic/WEF agenda was the theme for the show this year?
Cool!
Dave, can you show us sometime anything fun that one might do with those programming pins on the chip that you highlight at 18:57? What are all the possibilities when one has access to those pins- like, can you do anything fun with a JTAGulator or BusPirate (or Glasgow Interface Explorer)? Would it likely be limited to simply reading the chip ID out?
Please make the video on how you found the PN.
Cool bro, a DMM chip inside a socket tester? I can buy Jaycar's meter kit fully assembled at a discount store for 1/8th of its kit price. Only drawback is the transistor test socket is missing. Cristal clear display.
I feel like its a real missed opportunity to not use a transflective display to help with indoor and outdoor viewing
Swapping the neutral and earth would result in tripping your earth leakage breaker as soon as you plug something in right?
I bought a similar one from Mastek MS5902R that also injects a test frequency back onto the mains. Then a non-contact gun type thing can be run down the circuit breakers, allowing you to determine which breaker is powering that socket outlet.
.
Similar to the Klein circuit breaker finders, but about 1/5 the price.... works good enough in non-commercial applications, and easier that plugging in a radio and flipping breakers until the music stops 😂
.
Only easily available with EU and US plugs, so I modded mine with a IEC socket so I could add whaterever cable I desired.
I use mine for over a year now and the display looks OK. I think you have got one with a dodgy display
isnt the rcd test if you got one a test for earth neutral swap as well?
The M.E.N. is (in australia) ALWAYS at the location of the Main Switch, so not in a sub board, So Power pole, meter link, meter, main switch, physically where M.E.N. is, then off to sub boards and final circuits. Also, I'm fairly sure its Main Earth Neutral, not Multiple Earth Neutral.
To be boring, those RCD testers aren't illegal, but you can't really achieve any legal test with them, they are a gimmick or good for finding with RCD covers a power point, or possibly used to test earth continuity the long and trying way. A Legal RCD test requires ability to record time, change mA setting, and test each half of the wave.
A bit of a sod to use if the plug is upside down, I think. In most of Europe, apart from France, their plugs & sockets are reversible, so how does it cope with that? Cheers!
Are there a standard tolerance for NCV detectors.?
or is it simply anybody's guess and 100% up to the maker when they will shout&trigger first, will obviously often intensify the closer you get.
Picked up a relative cheap MF/RF/EF sensor tester and Im seeing first trigger/alarm at quite steady 100 V/m on quite a few of my meters, not least fx 210E clamp meter.
Just a question, What's "dangerous" about live and neutral being reversed?
I. Live in a country with shuko plugs (seen in thumbnail), and those are reversible.
Socket testers aren't a thing here as well, if you wat to check correct connections you use a duspol or something similar.
Reverse polarity is a problem because the neutral is bonded to ground at the main board to allow for the RCD/GFCI to function. Saving someones life if they touch a live conductor by tripping as soon as there is 30mA 'leakage' from Active to Earth.
@@gin3648 that might be the difference, where I am TT earth is extremely common.
Personally, I'd probably trust the 3 neon version more than the MCU one. Assuming, of course, that each of the 3 neons is good.
Wonder what it does when you have high earth resistance (in my case old house corroded rod in earth)
I was a military electrician and went to Kuwait in the early 2000s. They used the old BS (red yellow blue for three phase) and didn't bond the neutral and ground. Installing or disconnecting circuits would draw an arc due to the imbalance. Only other place I've encountered similar was Afghanistan that used Russian standard (ungrounded Euro plugs) with random Chinese panels that you had to provide your own bus bars, and often, installers would use terminal blocks with daisy chained 1.5mm² that would catch fire when a single wire was carrying the entire neutral load of the panel lol.
I think rev N/E would trip an RCD, but not older fused premises.
Since we are upside down, they make the chips upside down, so the electrons dont fall out
Ya broke the good one!
And in Poland, even with a Polish plug, this device is 50% usable
If it's a 6K4 resistors for the RCD detector, does that mean that resistor is dissipating 9W until it trips the breaker? What would happen if the RCD wasn't working? Is there an inline fuse?
You get a free hand warmer.
I think this tester is not complying IEC 61010-1 safety requirements. By pressing continuously the RCD test button you can induce constant ~30 mA leakage current to protective earth. What if the protective earth connection in the electrical panel of the branch circuit you are testing is missing now you have energized all of the metal enclosures of the Class I equipment connected to that branch circuit.
I thought they would include a PTC in series with the resistors to protect them in case of RCD not tripping but obviously they didn't
The RCD trips so quickly that these small resistors are usually adequate, however I found a socket that was not RCD protected, one of the 1k6 resistors got so hot it melted the solder and was left hanging on by one end. I intend to replace the surface mount resistors with a couple of 3W resistors which should be OK for a few seconds.
I find it a bit funny that if only green lights, it's not really safe, you need "alarm red" to make it read "safe"
I think if the RCD is defective and doesn’t trip then the 6.4k resistor will let the smoke out if you hold down the button!
You should not hold the button down for long. There are also other risks. If it shows open ground and the socket has a metal cover, the cover will give you a shock if touched. If you press the RCD test it will get really nasty.
I can confirm the resistors get very warm, one desoldered itself from the PCB.
@@dino6627 A safety feature!!!
The Men would be in the main switch board. If not at the transformer.
I have one of these, it's useful. But was delivered to me with the plug wired backwards (line and neutral inverted)....
LOL!
@@EEVblog nevertheless the screen on my unit is way more readable. Not super bright but okay.
The voltmeter part is pretty accurate (as expected from a dedicated multimeter chipset)
It's a Chinese plug. Non-insulated L&N, earth on top, different pin dimensions (thinner, longer but same angles). Not legal in AU, but will fit providing socket is not too worn from use.
@@johncoops6897I'm in France and mine is a euro plug that was kneed wired backward.
Despite the fact that it's pretty easy to wire, the LCD shows the correct orientation...
@Damien.D : Euro plugs don't have any orientation. I find this Aneng useful too, especially for the price, but the Live/Neutral reverse or not is meaningless in many countries.
I have a few of those simple ones. Used it when wiring up some outlets. I think you'd have to try and reverse earth and neutral. The bare earth wires connect to the metal box.
Some people are just that good at making mistakes. I suppose with fully-insulated wiring it's easier to swap the two. And while it's not exactly a swap it's relatively easy for a damaged wire to cause a short between the two. Worst is when hackjobs intentionally connect neutral to receptacle ground when "upgrading" places with ungrounded wiring.
@@eDoc2020 yhea, I was specifically thinking with the bare wire and connecting that to the metal box. That part should be easy enough. I could see someone missing one of those if there are multiple bare wires, but it should never be connected to anything else.
Looks like you probably have to get down on your hands and knees to read this in a low-mounted outlet.
Bow to Xinnie the Pooh, our supreme leader!
Yeah, if I was doing this all day I'd have a leaded type.
I removed the plug part of mine, and added a IEC socket. That way I can adjust the length of cable to suit the job.
@@fffUUUUUU president ping pong strikes again
@@johncoops6897 Be aware that not all IEC cables follow the correct pin connection. Means using an IEC cable to connect the Aneng might reverse live and neutral.
So if the RCD doesn't trip how long before you smoke the RCD test switch?
Meh, it's 37 mA... the switch will be fine. The resistors, however, will get really really toasty.
@@EnricoConca By Chinese reckoning, 3216s are good for a few watts .....
Is that upside down for AU/NZ ?
I am so tired of inverse LCD screens. So many have crap viewing angles and unreadable in daylight. And they require constant backlighting. I assume they are stylish because they look sort of like a computer monitor, and they can more easily have colored elements. I'll take the classic neon-style any day. Reliable, dead-simple.
I would love a VFD display, I do like like the look of the inverse LCD but I have never owned one and have heard nothing good.
That old safety tester was around $9.95 30 years ago.
My uni-t ut 203+ shows for example current flow of 6 amp from black wire of battery and 8 amp from red wire, batteries are 12v+12v series combination in home power backup inverter. Please a little hint of information here, why there is current difference and which one to follow for calculating the proper power usase.
The UT203+ is a pretty basic clamp meter and it wouldn’t surprise me to see a discrepancy between the two battery pole readings unless careful placement while measuring is followed. What you need to do is to zero the DC current before taking each reading. To zero the current reading, hold the plane of the clamp jaws as much as possible in the same plane as the wire you are about to measure with jaws closed and the opening part of the jaws facing the wire, then press the current zero. This sounds complicated, but it is what you have to do to get the Hall Effect sensor in the clamp in the most suitable alignment to get a correct reading when the clamp is placed around the wire.
@@wtmayhew .
oooh non-compliant plugs!
Can the ground to neutral voltage go negative? Would comparing the neutral to live voltage with the ground to live voltage be useful? Ground to live should be bigger if wired correctly?
It is alternating current. Ground and neutral should be darn near equopotential. What you are looking for (North America, use your mains number elsewhere) 120 between line and ground, 120 between line and neutral, and (close to) 0 between neutral and ground.
@@bertblankenstein3738 in the video there was 0.7 or something between ground and neutral. They are different because there is current flowing on neutral probably due to other devices plugged into the same circut, and wires are low ohm resistors so neutral wire has a voltage drop. Ground has no current, so no voltage drop.
Hence my hypothesis is that having a comparison of potential difference to live will usually confirm which is ground and which is neutral, although I haven't heard of that being used in one of these checkers before.
AC voltages are RMS so they are always positive. The momentary voltage of course switches between positive and negative 100 times a second.
Your method could work but remember if they are swapped it is using the ground as neutral so there will be voltage loss in the ground wire so there could be false negatives but likely not a false positive.
@@okaro6595 Right, good points. Best when you trust the other points on the circuit, and they have loads, but you don't add a load to the plug you're testing, because as you say, the neutral pin will be treated as a neutral and can dip the voltage even if that wire is meant to be earth.... I know AC can't be negative by itself, but yeah, it can fake it if we calculate the voltage from subtracting two other voltages.
@@ChrisSevern7 In a pure single phase system the L-G voltage will be greater than the N-G voltage. In a multi- or split-phase system it will be the opposite if the other legs are carrying a greater load. Or if there are miswired loads between L-G it will also be the opposite. Or negative power loads (such as grid-tie solar) will do the same, too.
That display is atrocious!
Yep
Its actually not an "aussie" plug but actually a mainland china plug, which happens to be ours but rotated 180 and without insulation on the L and N
Which is redundant anyway, because the switch on the socket faceplate means a half-inserted plug is never live.
@@bluerizlagirl what do you mean?
@@CountParadox The purpose of insulated pins is to prevent contact with the pins of a partially-inserted plug.
Australian and British sockets have switches on the faceplates, so the pins of a partially-inserted plug are not live anyway.
@@bluerizlagirl switches have two states, the one I've observed they are most commonly left in, "on", causes the partially exposed pins to become live 😇
Aussies are lazy and most people leave the outlet on
@@CountParadox Yes, but that clearly comes under the twin headings of "not using it right" and "deserving what you get".
I think that might actually explain why, despite all the safety features that have been incorporated into British power sockets since time immemorial, we don't seem to have all that many fewer accidents than the rest of the world. Because the gene for "acting the dick with electricity" has simply wiped itself out in other countries ..... :/
where abouts in Australia are you as interested in your channel and live in Brisbane, im also on your forum, which is fantastic
Sydney
@@EEVblog thankyou
The German and French sockets may legally be swapped live and neutral. The usual system has 230V between neutral and live (240V in England). The electricity system in Europe is always three-phase, i.e. the phases are offset by 120°.
In addition, there is still the old system rarely. The voltage between Live and the other Live is 230V; between Live and PE only 127V (120°)
The apartments are then wired like this: Apartment 1: L1 & L2, Apartment 2: L2 & L3, Apartment 3: L3 & L1.
Everyone gets 230V between phases at the sockets.
This is not to be confused with the US split phase system. There the phases are opposite. 115V + 115V = 230V
Everyone gets 115V at the sockets.
That's not German. In Germany, outlets are L-N and PE, not L-L. L-N voltage is 230, 3phase is 400.
atleast europe has cheap 3phase so we dont need 100amps on single phase. also you wouldnt rely on something that has 2 tripple AA batteries inside it? too bad then because almost every electrician primarely uses Continuity, Current and Voltage Testers that have batteries inside them.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets list of most of the mains plug types. Note that the US has an unusually large number of variations based on current and voltage capacity of the power point. And Japan varies both voltage and frequency.
Sure you can detect earth neutral swap, just press the rcd test, if it doesn't blow the fuse then it's swapped... or rcd is bad
You cannot have earth neutral swap with an RCD.
@@okaro6595 sure you can, it will just blow RCD any time you use anything on it
from + 12:16 yeah, goodbye boring as.
Instead of actually testing it, perhaps analyzing it effect with some measurement tools and manipulate it, to display some of the things it does, not least its 30mA RCD (as you explained you would).. nothing, instead you constantly crave to hear your own voice while making drawings.
I dont blame you, as a parent that is what we do with kids, so it likely makes you feel good and perhaps reflect your childhood...as in hearing you own voice while making different drawings.
Big Clive is honest about it, it resamples his childhood, when making drawings and hearing own voice - it reminds him of his mother & time there...
Hey - where did those batteries come from? Or has Australia adopted our Canadian biligualism policy?
(19:16 -'NON DESTINE AU COMMERCE DE DETAIL')
Non compliant AU plug? No insulated pins for N and L.
pins need to be insulated, but high voltage in bathrooms is ok 🤣 💥😵⚰🪦 AU always wins
@@echelonrank3927 High voltage means over 1000 V.
@@okaro6595 means over 1000v to who? to electrocuted people in the bathroom or to mad scientists who say it is so?
Australian sockets have switches on the faceplate, so the pins are not connected to anything while the plug is half-in and half-out.
There is something wrong with that display. I have the same device and the brighness is just fine.
If they had used a non stupid LCD, they wouldn't need a backlight at all and the battery life would probably be great
Up side down for Chinese market. 7:34
0:16
It's got a Chinese plug, none of that Yankee or Aussie rubbish 😂
That's not an Aussie plug. It's upside down. It's a Chinese plug.
Older, type A RCDs can only detect AC faults. This is why the reverse diode is needed in addition to the LED, to provide the negative current. The type A RCD will not detect half wave rectified DC. Nowadays the regs require the use of type AC RCDs that will detect pulsating DC as well as AC.
Older type is an AC RCD, newer with DC pulse is A, and with full DC detection is B.
In Canada the MEN connection isn't permitted.
Has to be a people connection. 🙄
With mandatory pronouns?
@@EEVblog - heaven forbid I *dare* to assume its gender. Even though you can CLEARLY see the tester is male. Probably get arrested! 😆
i bothered to watch the rest of this. great to see the good old 7500, no seriously i never seen this chip before 🤔
not sure why you consider the european plug "rubbish" 😞
How many types of mains plugs?
TOO MANY❗
WHY you have that funny power plug?
It allows double insulated appliances to be fitted with compact, two-pin plugs that are still non-reversible, so single-pole switches can be used. The earth contact sticking out of the plug means an earthed appliance cannot be plugged into a 2-pin socket. The pins are much slimmer than a child's finger, so there is no need for safety shutters in the socket. Protection against touching the pins of a half-inserted plug is afforded by means of a switch on the socket faceplate.
@@bluerizlagirl
Sounds good.
Do you have there home use plugs for higher current?
Why is it upside down?
Australia.
All of the electrons are going to fall out cause the plug is on upside down