I have a 2016 Jeep Wrangler with an automatic transmission. On a cold start my vehicle has no issue, but when shifting from Park to Reverse the vehicle shudders and occasionally will stall, what could be the issue?
My truck dies when I push in the clutch during a manual push start, gets no power when the gas pedal is fully on the floor and won't start. Died on me as i was driving it.
2007 ford mustang idles fine drives in reverse but as soon as I put it in 1st 2nd or D it dies if I done hold the brake and gas to make it go forward and when I do get it to go when I let off the gas it dies again any ideas?
Mazda 3 2008 is always going to stop while putting to 1st 2nd and reverse gears and need to press gas pedel more to adjust the rpm to stay near to 1000. 1st cold start is perfect without issues.. is this issue also from bad IAC !??????
My 1998 mercury mountaineer dies in reverse, if I give it gas it'll go but when I let off and try to idle it dies immediately. But only in reverse everything else works fine
The computer would cause the idle to be less reactive to the pedal and not allow you to race quickly backwards when you throw it in reverse, so a idle air control that's not working real well in reverse with the computer detuning the engine can cause this.
Not likely, I'm just telling you what the computer functions like. So when the idle air control is having problems it's not able to compensate for it since the computer is not allowing it to give you more idle. I'd clean or replace the IAC then check your results.
Only two things would cause that on a Dodge pickup either the idle air control or a vacuum leak. Typically a vacuum leak on one of those goes to the booster tank where the vacuum lines go in and out and it's kind of a small air tank looking plastic sphere. Otherwise the majority of the time it is the idle air control specially on that year model.
I have a 97 dodge 2500 5.9. Diesel It runs fine on Highway but I have to put I in neutral are the truck will kill on me. Any information will help. Thanx in advance
If it's below 625 low idle then adjust the low idle up to 650 to 675 so the computer knows it's running right. The screw loosens on them over time. Second, the Fuel filter and possibly pre filter.
Hopefully you see this and can help me , 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse gs car died while In Drive coming to a stop and now it won’t start at all noteven with a jumpstart , alternator is good any thoughts on what it could be ? TIA 🙏🏼
If the engine will spin over and it won't even as much as sputter then you've got five things that are most likely on those cars. Ignition relay, fuel pump or it's relay, low oil switch off condition, fuel pump inertial safety switch or plug assembly to fuel pump under rear seats. Other rare but occasional things that will happen is your crank position sensor or your neutral safety switch on your shifter that would cause these issues. Due to it being summertime and the age of the car I would say the fuel pump is old and pulling an extra amount of amperage to check the fuse going to it or the fuel pump relay to start with.
Do something put the key in the ignition make sure everything is quiet and off, slowly turn it until it clicks to before it would start. See if you hear a slight hum or a clunk from the back of the car. If you don't hear anything it's worth checking the fuel pump. Some are so quiet that you might have to have somebody stand at the gas filler and put their ears close as they can to where you put the gas in for the tank and repeat that process. Fuel pumps won't run if they're already pressured up, so you might want to do a little starter spin to relieve the fuel pressure and repeat the process a few times to verify. And sometimes the fuel pumps will cool off, loosen back up and just start again.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 it was the crankshaft sensor man I bought a code scanner , I still haven’t replaced it yet tho thank you for your help tho really put some hope back in me I was about to scrap the car
Chrysler Pacifica, guaranteed vacuum leaks. Have someone test your vacuum leaks and that's most likely your problem. Your throttle controls and intake manifold or sensitive to vacuum changes, a vacuum leak that's just big enough will do everything you're having problems with. Always if I give good information feel free to throw any money in the change drawer underneath the video where it says thanks or something like that.
LOL!! On a 1964 C10 your only dealing with choosing what brand of duct tape to use and Galvanized or Plain steel bailing wire for all repairs. But if it is stalling or not starting when hot, replace the coil and check for moisture in the distributor. If someone has changed the fuel line or carb, then you have to venture into that system to determine if the Carb and fuel supply is getting vapor locked.
Idk if you're still responding but here I am in 2021 with a 2000 mercury villager just brought it 2 months ago and I've been chasing a vacuum leak. Until I figured out the iac may be the culprit. So I got a new one and it idled really high and then after a min it would start surging up and down rpms 1500-2000 every couple seconds. So I cleaned the old one put it back on and now I'm having the issue your having. And somewhere I figured out it may also be the fast idle thermo valve I can't keep spending money on iac they are expensive for this vehicle. So could it still just be the iac valve and nothing else? What made the brand new one bounce rpms?
While you're installing the new one be sure to disconnect the negative on the battery to clear the computer because it has been making up the difference for a older one for a long time. After you clean the old one and put it back on sort of the same result. Try that and see if it makes a difference.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I've got the idle fixed but of course there's always something else. I'm about ready to junk this thing. Now I can idle perfectly in all gears no stalling. Until I start driving. I went for a short test drive all seemed fine but when I was on my way back it starts bucking and jumping and doesn't want me pressing the gas very hard. If I lay into the gas the rpms drop way down and tries to shut off while driving. I'm looking into the crankshaft sensor next but after that I think it's time to give up. And let someone else try their luck with it. It's a real shame since it's in excellent condition inside and out low miles and all. It drove so nice when I first got it.
Sounds like fuel pressure regulator when they do that. Quite likely you either have a plugged fuel filter, weak fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator issue. The bucking would be caused by the lack of fuel. However take a look inside the tailpipe and if it's really black then you might have something wrong with the throttle body on it.
I have a 2006 suzuki grand vitara and it’s fine in park and neutral but when i put it into drive and reverse it sounds like the power is less then it’s fine for a couple seconds then dies thinking it might be an alternator tried the battery way to unplug the postive wire and see if it goes out but its fine does the same thing with the battery connected any thoughts ?
On those, Timing slack adjusters is #1 for that behavior. #2 is vacuum leaks, #3 is fuel pressure regulator, #4 weak fuel pump, #5 idle air control. If I hit it on the spot with the list you need, don't feel guilty if you go into the video and drop a thanks dollar or three.
I just ran across your video. I’m impressed so far. I would like to get you to build a solar panel system for my 2003 terry travel trailer. I would like for you to build that for me so I can get a good idea of what to get. Eventually I would like to install a wind and solar for the house and shop. Please let me know if this is something you are interested in. Thank you for all the videos and your time
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I was hoping you could either give me a parts list that I can order. And I pay you to walk me through how to set up the system over the phone. If that is possible. Since I’m in ga , I’m not sure if you could install everything. Do you have a number I can call.
Take me a picture of the RV Roof, with its surface length measurements, and what you will need to run on Solar. You can run a lot, and a AC unit but not the roof mount AC units. Send info, pics and your ph number to me at olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com and I'll get back with you soon as I can. I get about 30+ emails a day with similar needs.
Hello, my Ford 1990 F150 4.9 L stalls on reverse after driving for a while, it did right in the middle of the parking lot, could not re-start the truck, then fr some reason I did not have my cables nor anybody else to have given me a jump. After about 30 minutes I decided to start it AND IT DID START!! And I got back home. It did again after a month, and this time as I lifted the hood, I noticed a bit of fluid had come out of a couple of Battery cells, I suspected it overheats. After 20 minutes I tried to start it and it started, went back home. So now the question is.....What is causing this overheating? I checked it for shorts, but I found none, what do I need to check and fix? Thanks a lot for the advice.
Did you check battery water level or replace the battery? Start there. The started solenoid on these 1977 to 1996 straight 6 engines can get overheated, over stress the battery and cause contacts to separate till they cool down and contract. If you have over 130,000 on the original starter consider replacement and it's solenoid.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you much!! I'll check that one up again, I replaced it some 3 months ago, but I may have gotten a bad apple. So I'll try another one.
Since you said it died in reverse, that could be the neutral safety switch in the ignition as a second option. If it does it again work the key back and forth like you're going to start it as you're working the gear lever back and forth if it's a manual transmission then you might want to check for the neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission to see if it got hung up or loose. If it's a manual transmission look up neutral safety switch Ford manual transmission and your year model.
3 common trouble things on the Infinity. If not the idle air control. Knock sensor, vacuum leak, EGR. If it fails to pull a code, then check fuel pressure regulator.
Yes, most likely. Poor air flow will stall an engine once it's put under load like putting it in gear. The next thing could possibly be a vacuum leak somewhere. Other than that the Altimas don't have any real problems
@JOHNDANIEL1 2002 pathfinder , idles fine when put into gear d or r. Shuts off. Had vaccum leaks codes for 2 months. Could it be the vaccum leaks that evtually caused this?
Yes, vacuum leaks affect things in the transmission, drive couplers and brakes that you would not expect. Loosing vacuum causes the intake to close or the IAC to close and shut you off. Nissan had 4 years, 1999 to 2003 where the fittings became brittle that connected numerous vacuum lines and vacuum servo motors. The Air conditioner venting vacuum servo not working well is a sign of this problem too. Lots of hands on time is involved, a cheap propane torch head amzn.to/3vieH9V and 1 lb camping tank can help, DO NOT use starter fluid like boneheads do in some videos. Find a few videos on how to use Propane to find automotive vacuum leaks.
@JOHNDANIEL1 ok thank you very much for the advice!! It's in the shop now hoping for the best and nothing to expensive to fix. I done tons of research and looked everywhere on vechile . Decided to put into a shop. Thank you very much for advice sir and your helpful vidoes!!!
Disconnect the cars battery while the headlights are on to drain the voltage in the system and clear the computer, let set about 2 hours, re-connect the battery and see if it improves. If it starts to act up again, clean or replace the MAF sensor on it.
Depending on the vehicle such as a Ford you need to buy the Motorcraft brand some vehicles do not like cheap parts. I replaced four different ones on a Mountaineer and would not run right til I installed the Motorcraft. eBay, Autozone, and Orielly optional brands would not work.
John, suggestion, buy a used EV. The end of all those problems that come with fossil fueled mechanical contraptions. About 9K fewer moving parts. Used EVs are currently affordable, just bought a 2017 Chevy Bolt, and love it. You like bargains, at least check one out. Folks haven't caught on to their true value just yet. I love your video content. Keep up the good work. FYI, I have owned motorhomes since 1977, never intend to be without one. Your videos are a must watch for guys like me.
Look for more RV related and how we install modern to the antiquity RV's. As for a EV, I prefer the self built, like my 1981 Buick I did, a tiny little FWD skylark we put a 44hp 72 volt in. With the newest LiFePo4O battery from LingLong I can triple its original range of 38 miles and top speed from 52 to 70 mph. With the engine, fuel tank, exhaust, and all such gear removed it was under 1500 lbs! The 4 speed with the Hyster 44hp motor of 1983 was used. Imagine me with technology of today on that car!!!! This car - www.cargurus.com/Cars/1981-Buick-Skylark-Pictures-c8465
@@tinkerscorner54 they can take the heat generated from anything that generates heat as they do from the internal combustion engine, heat exchangers exist for EV battery banks as part of the normal battery cooling system and ofcourse by law the EV cars must have heaters and demisters , have you watched videos of evs driving in minus 40c in europe.
@@closertothetruth9209 Okay, thanks. I just had never thought much about heaters in an EV until i watched this video and saw Ross's comment. 20 degrees F is cold but not for out where he lives and further north. I've driven in much colder weather where even an internal combustion engine couldn't do much more than keep it above freezing in the cab. Once in Des Moines, Iowa, I pulled into the terminal around midnight and it was an actual -80 F (-62 C) with a 40 mph wind blowing. We couldn't shut the trucks down to refuel or they wouldn't be able to restart. The batteries would freeze in short order. Even with gloves, I about got frostbite while refueling. (Have you ever had your eyelids freeze together? The wind makes your eyes water and the temperature freezes it almost instantly.(I'm glad I had long johns and an extra blanket that night.)) That was an extreme example in a big truck. -20F is more common and In regular vehicles out west, many time I've had to put cardboard or a blanket in front of the radiator in order to complete a trip and get home. Generally, if there was a blizzard, there was enough time to get home and hunker down before it actually started. One year (1990-91?) two Air Force Academy cadets died, not from the cold but carbon monoxide poisoning. They got stranded between Colorado Springs and Denver and failed to get out and regularly clear the snow from their exhaust. (Sad but "Dumb kills".) I haven't seen the videos that you talked about. My thoughts went to "what happens to a lithium battery at really low temps? And really high temps?" and "how do they produce heat if they are sitting still for hours?". I honestly had never given it a thought before. Thanks for responding! That's a new area to look into.
Hey John, do you know if this is a common issue in 1999 Honda CRVs? 166k miles. I have the exact same problem: car starts up, idles fine in Park, as soon as I switch it into D or R it sputters and dies most mornings. Especially when it’s cold. It used to start up fine, now it also struggles to start up most days. Same as yours, if I apply the gas during start up or putting it in gear, it keeps it alive until it’s warm and then it runs fine. Mechanic said no leaks in the vacuum lines and pressure on all cylinders is good. What do you think? They want to try changing the whole timing belt, but I’m not sure. Sounds like IAC might be just the thing.
If you can't figure what one is. Popular Idle Air Control Valves look like these amzn.to/3fkItPr if your having trouble identifying yours
The sudden urge to watch episodes of Supernatural with Bobby Singer in them intensifies....
I'll second that! Awesome show dude! His voice kinda does sound like Bobby
never seen that style of IAC , good info
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
My 2006 mini turns completly off when put on reverse gear. Gonna check if that might be the same issue
You did great but that tube was upside down and for a NON mechanic I needed to see that tube even though I just assume it’s gasket gunk🤷🏽♀️
Thank you, I going to try this.
I have a 2016 Jeep Wrangler with an automatic transmission. On a cold start my vehicle has no issue, but when shifting from Park to Reverse the vehicle shudders and occasionally will stall, what could be the issue?
@@Wezi427 bad purge valve
Big thanks!! Will do it
This helped alot thanks
My truck dies when I push in the clutch during a manual push start, gets no power when the gas pedal is fully on the floor and won't start. Died on me as i was driving it.
i think this is it. thanks.
Similar not the same issue with GMC I6 2004 Envoy. Starts and runs great until it warms enough to reduce idle and dies
That series of GMC with the L6 engine is notorious for intake warp and leaks. The do the same thing as a IAC acting up. Check both.
Thanks for making video!!
5.4 3v rough lidies in park what u think it is
2007 ford mustang idles fine drives in reverse but as soon as I put it in 1st 2nd or D it dies if I done hold the brake and gas to make it go forward and when I do get it to go when I let off the gas it dies again any ideas?
Where would it be on an 02 Monte Carlo
john do they still make the iac replacement part for this veh ? and what was the reason for the sealent ?
Mazda 3 2008 is always going to stop while putting to 1st 2nd and reverse gears and need to press gas pedel more to adjust the rpm to stay near to 1000. 1st cold start is perfect without issues.. is this issue also from bad IAC !??????
Yes, that is a common behavior.
God bless you and thanks for info
Will it cut off as well when you put it in gear
What part did he just clean
Another nice video, John! Thank you for posting!
Good job buddy
john where did you get this intake cleaner ? i am having trouble finding it
Hi i have a geo metro 1.3 litre it has bad idling and shut down when shift in drive
Vacuum leak
My 1998 mercury mountaineer dies in reverse, if I give it gas it'll go but when I let off and try to idle it dies immediately. But only in reverse everything else works fine
The computer would cause the idle to be less reactive to the pedal and not allow you to race quickly backwards when you throw it in reverse, so a idle air control that's not working real well in reverse with the computer detuning the engine can cause this.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ok thank you so much! So should I replace the computer?
Not likely, I'm just telling you what the computer functions like. So when the idle air control is having problems it's not able to compensate for it since the computer is not allowing it to give you more idle. I'd clean or replace the IAC then check your results.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ohhhh ok I gotcha, I have replaced it though and the spark plugs as well it's been about a year since then though
What would do if I had this same problem but on my TBI system in my 88 GMC sierra?
Find the idle air control and clean it. Generally they have a idle control, and throttle position sensor.
I have a 97 Dodge Ram idles fine in park and neutral but just dies when I put it in reverse or drive what do you suggest it might be?
Only two things would cause that on a Dodge pickup either the idle air control or a vacuum leak. Typically a vacuum leak on one of those goes to the booster tank where the vacuum lines go in and out and it's kind of a small air tank looking plastic sphere. Otherwise the majority of the time it is the idle air control specially on that year model.
I have the same problem with my dodge cummins
How do i fix a vacuum leak
Did you ever fix ur problem????
I have a 97 dodge 2500 5.9. Diesel It runs fine on Highway but I have to put I in neutral are the truck will kill on me. Any information will help. Thanx in advance
If it's below 625 low idle then adjust the low idle up to 650 to 675 so the computer knows it's running right. The screw loosens on them over time. Second, the Fuel filter and possibly pre filter.
I have a 2002 Cadillac Escalade that when I filing it revs up and down then if I put it in drive it’ll stop or if I’m driving and go to stop it’ll die
Vacuum leak, carbon canister, EGR valve or something in the vapor vacuum related system. Won't usually give codes.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 are those easy fixes??
Hopefully you see this and can help me , 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse gs car died while In Drive coming to a stop and now it won’t start at all noteven with a jumpstart , alternator is good any thoughts on what it could be ? TIA 🙏🏼
If the engine will spin over and it won't even as much as sputter then you've got five things that are most likely on those cars. Ignition relay, fuel pump or it's relay, low oil switch off condition, fuel pump inertial safety switch or plug assembly to fuel pump under rear seats. Other rare but occasional things that will happen is your crank position sensor or your neutral safety switch on your shifter that would cause these issues.
Due to it being summertime and the age of the car I would say the fuel pump is old and pulling an extra amount of amperage to check the fuse going to it or the fuel pump relay to start with.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 you’re a life saver man 🙏🏼 thank you I’ll check them out
Do something put the key in the ignition make sure everything is quiet and off, slowly turn it until it clicks to before it would start. See if you hear a slight hum or a clunk from the back of the car. If you don't hear anything it's worth checking the fuel pump. Some are so quiet that you might have to have somebody stand at the gas filler and put their ears close as they can to where you put the gas in for the tank and repeat that process.
Fuel pumps won't run if they're already pressured up, so you might want to do a little starter spin to relieve the fuel pressure and repeat the process a few times to verify.
And sometimes the fuel pumps will cool off, loosen back up and just start again.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 it was the crankshaft sensor man I bought a code scanner , I still haven’t replaced it yet tho thank you for your help tho really put some hope back in me I was about to scrap the car
I have an 2007 Chrysler Pacifica stalls when i press the brakes and on reverse gear? Cleaned the throttle body had a p0420 code come on?
Chrysler Pacifica, guaranteed vacuum leaks. Have someone test your vacuum leaks and that's most likely your problem. Your throttle controls and intake manifold or sensitive to vacuum changes, a vacuum leak that's just big enough will do everything you're having problems with. Always if I give good information feel free to throw any money in the change drawer underneath the video where it says thanks or something like that.
My 1964 c10 has this problem. Will this work? Or is it a different system because it’s a carburetor?
LOL!! On a 1964 C10 your only dealing with choosing what brand of duct tape to use and Galvanized or Plain steel bailing wire for all repairs. But if it is stalling or not starting when hot, replace the coil and check for moisture in the distributor. If someone has changed the fuel line or carb, then you have to venture into that system to determine if the Carb and fuel supply is getting vapor locked.
Idk if you're still responding but here I am in 2021 with a 2000 mercury villager just brought it 2 months ago and I've been chasing a vacuum leak. Until I figured out the iac may be the culprit. So I got a new one and it idled really high and then after a min it would start surging up and down rpms 1500-2000 every couple seconds. So I cleaned the old one put it back on and now I'm having the issue your having. And somewhere I figured out it may also be the fast idle thermo valve I can't keep spending money on iac they are expensive for this vehicle. So could it still just be the iac valve and nothing else? What made the brand new one bounce rpms?
While you're installing the new one be sure to disconnect the negative on the battery to clear the computer because it has been making up the difference for a older one for a long time. After you clean the old one and put it back on sort of the same result. Try that and see if it makes a difference.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I've got the idle fixed but of course there's always something else. I'm about ready to junk this thing. Now I can idle perfectly in all gears no stalling. Until I start driving. I went for a short test drive all seemed fine but when I was on my way back it starts bucking and jumping and doesn't want me pressing the gas very hard. If I lay into the gas the rpms drop way down and tries to shut off while driving. I'm looking into the crankshaft sensor next but after that I think it's time to give up. And let someone else try their luck with it. It's a real shame since it's in excellent condition inside and out low miles and all. It drove so nice when I first got it.
Sounds like fuel pressure regulator when they do that. Quite likely you either have a plugged fuel filter, weak fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator issue. The bucking would be caused by the lack of fuel. However take a look inside the tailpipe and if it's really black then you might have something wrong with the throttle body on it.
If theres carbon in the idle valve wouldn't there also be carbon around the throttle butterfly valve🤔
Yes, but that had been cleaned earlier which lead to the IACV being next suspect
Great video! Thanks for the info.
1996 Buick century turns on but dies when put in drive. What could it be?
Vacuum leaks would be top on the list for that model and year car.
i have a 1992 mustang that idles and stalls when i put in in gear but its fine in neutral any help appreciated changed iac and egr
You have a vacuum leak or your EGR has failed
I have a 2006 suzuki grand vitara and it’s fine in park and neutral but when i put it into drive and reverse it sounds like the power is less then it’s fine for a couple seconds then dies thinking it might be an alternator tried the battery way to unplug the postive wire and see if it goes out but its fine does the same thing with the battery connected any thoughts ?
On those, Timing slack adjusters is #1 for that behavior. #2 is vacuum leaks, #3 is fuel pressure regulator, #4 weak fuel pump, #5 idle air control.
If I hit it on the spot with the list you need, don't feel guilty if you go into the video and drop a thanks dollar or three.
Was the engine light on because of that issue?
Some do and will leave a code of misfire or MAF sensor but most do not.
What is that thing you cleaned called
Idle air control valve
What about a g35 with this problem is it the same
Yes
Did this fix your problem?
Happy Thanksgiving to both of you... I hope it's a good one for you...
What about on a 1985 Ford ranger 2.8 v6?carbrated ?
Likely a Vacuum leak or EGR issues on those.
I just ran across your video. I’m impressed so far.
I would like to get you to build a solar panel system for my 2003 terry travel trailer.
I would like for you to build that for me so I can get a good idea of what to get. Eventually I would like to install a wind and solar for the house and shop.
Please let me know if this is something you are interested in.
Thank you for all the videos and your time
OK, How can I help you?
@@JOHNDANIEL1
I was hoping you could either give me a parts list that I can order. And I pay you to walk me through how to set up the system over the phone. If that is possible. Since I’m in ga , I’m not sure if you could install everything.
Do you have a number I can call.
Take me a picture of the RV Roof, with its surface length measurements, and what you will need to run on Solar. You can run a lot, and a AC unit but not the roof mount AC units. Send info, pics and your ph number to me at olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com and I'll get back with you soon as I can. I get about 30+ emails a day with similar needs.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thank you, I will do that asap
In the same case of my 2001 Nissan Sentra, it is caused by a bad Oxygen Sensor 😔
I just replaced the IAC, Fuel Pressure Regulator and all coils and plugs in mine. Still didnt fix
@@tengenriku you ever get it fixed?
What is this part called
IAC unit, Idle Air Control
Hello, my Ford 1990 F150 4.9 L stalls on reverse after driving for a while, it did right in the middle of the parking lot, could not re-start the truck, then fr some reason I did not have my cables nor anybody else to have given me a jump. After about 30 minutes I decided to start it AND IT DID START!! And I got back home. It did again after a month, and this time as I lifted the hood, I noticed a bit of fluid had come out of a couple of Battery cells, I suspected it overheats. After 20 minutes I tried to start it and it started, went back home. So now the question is.....What is causing this overheating? I checked it for shorts, but I found none, what do I need to check and fix? Thanks a lot for the advice.
Did you check battery water level or replace the battery? Start there.
The started solenoid on these 1977 to 1996 straight 6 engines can get overheated, over stress the battery and cause contacts to separate till they cool down and contract. If you have over 130,000 on the original starter consider replacement and it's solenoid.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you much!! I'll check that one up again, I replaced it some 3 months ago, but I may have gotten a bad apple. So I'll try another one.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you!!
Since you said it died in reverse, that could be the neutral safety switch in the ignition as a second option. If it does it again work the key back and forth like you're going to start it as you're working the gear lever back and forth if it's a manual transmission then you might want to check for the neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission to see if it got hung up or loose. If it's a manual transmission look up neutral safety switch Ford manual transmission and your year model.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I will try that, thanks John.
He said $2.70 a gallon 🤣 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a Infiniti g35 it does the same thing any suggestions???
3 common trouble things on the Infinity. If not the idle air control.
Knock sensor, vacuum leak, EGR.
If it fails to pull a code, then check fuel pressure regulator.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks for the fast responses
Could this be the issue for an 05 Altima 2.5? Starts and runs fine but when put in any gear besides neutral, it dies.
Yes, most likely. Poor air flow will stall an engine once it's put under load like putting it in gear. The next thing could possibly be a vacuum leak somewhere. Other than that the Altimas don't have any real problems
@JOHNDANIEL1 2002 pathfinder , idles fine when put into gear d or r. Shuts off. Had vaccum leaks codes for 2 months. Could it be the vaccum leaks that evtually caused this?
Yes, vacuum leaks affect things in the transmission, drive couplers and brakes that you would not expect. Loosing vacuum causes the intake to close or the IAC to close and shut you off. Nissan had 4 years, 1999 to 2003 where the fittings became brittle that connected numerous vacuum lines and vacuum servo motors. The Air conditioner venting vacuum servo not working well is a sign of this problem too. Lots of hands on time is involved, a cheap propane torch head amzn.to/3vieH9V and 1 lb camping tank can help, DO NOT use starter fluid like boneheads do in some videos. Find a few videos on how to use Propane to find automotive vacuum leaks.
@JOHNDANIEL1 ok thank you very much for the advice!! It's in the shop now hoping for the best and nothing to expensive to fix. I done tons of research and looked everywhere on vechile . Decided to put into a shop.
Thank you very much for advice sir and your helpful vidoes!!!
You sound like Jim Ross. Thank you for this video.
I replaced mine and it’s still giving me trouble
Disconnect the cars battery while the headlights are on to drain the voltage in the system and clear the computer, let set about 2 hours, re-connect the battery and see if it improves. If it starts to act up again, clean or replace the MAF sensor on it.
Depending on the vehicle such as a Ford you need to buy the Motorcraft brand some vehicles do not like cheap parts. I replaced four different ones on a Mountaineer and would not run right til I installed the Motorcraft. eBay, Autozone, and Orielly optional brands would not work.
@@joescrewdriver9000 Good advice....that's the route I took when I replaced mine.
Yohn Daniel?
John, suggestion, buy a used EV. The end of all those problems that come with fossil fueled mechanical contraptions. About 9K fewer moving parts. Used EVs are currently affordable, just bought a 2017 Chevy Bolt, and love it. You like bargains, at least check one out. Folks haven't caught on to their true value just yet. I love your video content. Keep up the good work. FYI, I have owned motorhomes since 1977, never intend to be without one. Your videos are a must watch for guys like me.
you could be right especially with heavy reliance on foreign oil thats a recipe for dissaster.
How well do the heaters work in an EV?
Look for more RV related and how we install modern to the antiquity RV's. As for a EV, I prefer the self built, like my 1981 Buick I did, a tiny little FWD skylark we put a 44hp 72 volt in. With the newest LiFePo4O battery from LingLong I can triple its original range of 38 miles and top speed from 52 to 70 mph. With the engine, fuel tank, exhaust, and all such gear removed it was under 1500 lbs! The 4 speed with the Hyster 44hp motor of 1983 was used.
Imagine me with technology of today on that car!!!! This car - www.cargurus.com/Cars/1981-Buick-Skylark-Pictures-c8465
@@tinkerscorner54 they can take the heat generated from anything that generates heat as they do from the internal combustion engine, heat exchangers exist for EV battery banks as part of the normal battery cooling system and ofcourse by law the EV cars must have heaters and demisters , have you watched videos of evs driving in minus 40c in europe.
@@closertothetruth9209 Okay, thanks. I just had never thought much about heaters in an EV until i watched this video and saw Ross's comment. 20 degrees F is cold but not for out where he lives and further north. I've driven in much colder weather where even an internal combustion engine couldn't do much more than keep it above freezing in the cab.
Once in Des Moines, Iowa, I pulled into the terminal around midnight and it was an actual -80 F (-62 C) with a 40 mph wind blowing. We couldn't shut the trucks down to refuel or they wouldn't be able to restart. The batteries would freeze in short order. Even with gloves, I about got frostbite while refueling. (Have you ever had your eyelids freeze together? The wind makes your eyes water and the temperature freezes it almost instantly.(I'm glad I had long johns and an extra blanket that night.))
That was an extreme example in a big truck. -20F is more common and In regular vehicles out west, many time I've had to put cardboard or a blanket in front of the radiator in order to complete a trip and get home. Generally, if there was a blizzard, there was enough time to get home and hunker down before it actually started. One year (1990-91?) two Air Force Academy cadets died, not from the cold but carbon monoxide poisoning. They got stranded between Colorado Springs and Denver and failed to get out and regularly clear the snow from their exhaust. (Sad but "Dumb kills".)
I haven't seen the videos that you talked about. My thoughts went to "what happens to a lithium battery at really low temps? And really high temps?" and "how do they produce heat if they are sitting still for hours?". I honestly had never given it a thought before. Thanks for responding! That's a new area to look into.
Automatic transmission btw
Stuff is nasty inside
Your wife better appreciate you...
She tends to unless towing is the result!
Hey John, do you know if this is a common issue in 1999 Honda CRVs? 166k miles. I have the exact same problem: car starts up, idles fine in Park, as soon as I switch it into D or R it sputters and dies most mornings. Especially when it’s cold. It used to start up fine, now it also struggles to start up most days. Same as yours, if I apply the gas during start up or putting it in gear, it keeps it alive until it’s warm and then it runs fine. Mechanic said no leaks in the vacuum lines and pressure on all cylinders is good. What do you think? They want to try changing the whole timing belt, but I’m not sure. Sounds like IAC might be just the thing.
I have this exact issue on a 08 Acura RDX.
Did u ever find out the issue? Mine is doing excat same thing
@@danielle05able did you figure it out
Need to know the problem was my blazers doing that