Thank you so much! I just purchased a 1982 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 with only 44,500 miles. I'm super happy with it and have always wanted one since I was a kiddo
INstead of metal tape I use the blu contractors insulation tape...it lasts and holds better without tearing...just an extra tip!:) Remember to also check the door hinges, as the door is going to be much heavier than before with all the extra material added, so if the door sags now, it may not even close right once all this is done. Trust me,...do those first! Also, lubricate with a sheep oil..used for food factory parts, as that is water resistant and STAYS rather than WD40...I have also found that to work best, and it also prevents rust! There is also a macro wrench kit that fits those bolts better on the outer window edging. Now do you have tips on how to properly re align the window triangle? If that is not installed correct, your window will not open and close correctly...I know, it took me forever to get it to set up right with the new triangle I had to install....sigh...
What kinda tape? Like for electrical work? Foam backed? What? Starting to gather supplies. Searched blu contractors insulation tape, results are vast, more descriptive please.
@@scottb_02 I use the blue industrial tape used outside for insulation taping etc...like the red stuff, but I like the blue better now as it is even stronger! It really STICKS to the surface and stays there, which is more than I can say for any other tape out there. At least over the past 20 years mine sure has worked well!:) Any adhesives like spray bond etc gets brittle over time. The contractors tape however stands very hot and very cold weather which is what it is meant to stand up to.
@@ChristBuilt901x no. It us the insulation tape called tuck tape. But it us even stronger than the red stuff. Both are great as they do not get brittle in cold weather and do not get limp in high heat. Used in housing construction.
Like others commented, I also like the stepped out process with good editing you are doing. And showing all items like seals, lubricating, fasteners, and reassembly.
Greetings from Torrance! Very good video. Very detailed and nice explanation of sound deadening. The funny thing is, these cars(or I should say my car) is known to have squeaks and noises coming from all over the car. Its part of the character of the car and its almost appreciated. The 3rd gens weren't known for great build quality. They have a look that is really appreciated by those who love them. The 3rd gens look fast, even though today's honda civic could beat it in a race, but they have the total 80's look. So I kind of appreciate the little rattles. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
@@3rdGenGuy When I bought my IROC 10 years ago, it was completely stock. Original radio, faded(but original) paint. Loved the fact that it was original. Now because some knucklehead delivery driver dented my driver's door and quarter panel, I am forced to resto mod it. I will keep it clean and as close to original, but will upgrade the headlights and a few other things. Will definitely check out all of your videos. Thank you sir for your attention to detail!
Love the 3rd gen Camaros! I always wondered why they never got the love from that generation that they deserved. By far this body style stands out on its own and ahead for its time.. by far one of my favorite since I had owned a new 1987 IROC Z28 back in the day.
it was a SMOG era car and the LOW power numbers hurt their reputation. but as 1st and 2nd gens get more and more expensive more and more people are going to 3rd gens. There's a great many guys who own a 5th/6th gen AND a 3rd gen.
Extremely helpful video. Considering a z28 myself with a 383 stroker. Needless to say, I was going to daily drive it with some earplugs in, but this will reduce that rattle. Thanks again.
Love the videos. I read that you got the foam and vinyl from Amazon, so you happen to have the product numbers for those? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, etc. Thanks again.
did this according this vid. quite pleased with the outcome. especially the new door rails (bought ar hawks) where straight instead of cheap curved as the factory ones. much less rattle now!
Fantastic video, thank you. I've got a 2001 z28 and the rear hatch leaked and rain soaked the floors of the back driver seat. I've already removed half the interior, I'm thinking I might as well just do it all right and insulate the whole thing.... "While I'm in there...." This is going to take a few weekends. Thanks for the step by step instructions! - from Napa California
all you need it dyno mat or killmat in some of the places on the door and it be solid as the one in the video and you wont here the road noise, and cover the entire floor board in dyno mat or killmat. killmat is better, its 80mil.
Question for clarification - at the 6:49 time mark you say the "vinyl touches the cardboard and the high density foam touches the metal of the door". At that time mark though, the video shows the plastic moisture barrier lying on top of the vinyl...as you mention this layering process. Based on what I saw then, did you sandwich the plastic moisture barrier in between the vinyl and foam? I'm guessing you did, since when you placed the finished door pad back onto the door at the 9:52 mark, it doesn't appear the plastic moisture barrier is present in the original factory position. Also, at the 6:39 mark you say to cut out the vinyl so it fits INSIDE the push pins. What exactly did you use to keep the vinyl attached to the door pad to keep it in place when the door pad is stood upright? The same question would apply to the foam as well. I first assumed you were using the push pins to keep the materials aligned, but the video clearly describes and shows the material is cut inside of the push pins. Are you using some type of adhesive? Thank you for all the great information!!
the factory moisture barrier film is what kept everything from moving around. a better method would be something like 3m adhesive glue spray. as far as the foam, vinyl combo. just make sure the mass loaded vinyl doesn't touch any metal.
So just to make sure...your layering system in order then was the cardboard door panel, vinyl, foam and then the plastic moisture barrier? (Plastic moisture barrier holding it all together and attached to the panel with the clips). This whole thing is then mounted to the door?
I ordered all new weather seals from Ecklers (Rick's Camaro's), and so far I've done the passenger side door. The molded ends on the outer door seal don't seem correct. For instance, the front one is about 1/2 inch off from the vertical screw and the front screw is too high. Also, I can barely get my top rail to install in the door properly with the triangle seal bracket installed. Any tips/help with that? Thanks
the screw holes may not line up. GM used self tappers screws and placed them haphazardly. I had to drill a hole myself in my driver side to get them to line up. 90s GM quality lol
@@3rdGenGuy lol I figured, I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill new holes but I'll likely have to. Thanks for the reply and the videos, they're great!
does the plastic glue to the vinyl then the foam on top of that glued, or is the barrier shield(plastic) separate from the vinyl attached to the foam to the door ?
This product had the foam and Vinyl as 1 piece. I used the plastic to keep it in place when I installed the door panel. Car metal--foam--vinyl--plastic--door pannel
Questions: I've talked with a Lot of people who ordered the door weather stripping and they indicate the rubber rips off the push pins, even within a few days... Have you had any negative experinces 4 years later? GM glued the same areas as you did in yours but others have said unless you apply glue along the sides and underneath (in turn reinforcing the area where the push pins are), the rubber would rip right off the push pins.. Has this happened to you with only the adheisive on the top two weather striping ends?
Any harder to shut? Apparently a common issue I hear is that the rubber on the ends are thicker (On the triange side) and makes it harder to get the door to shut.. ?
QUESTION. what is that plastic layer for? You didn't list it when listing materials. I thought the high density foam touches the metal of the door. Is this plastic layer any different from the factory plastic water shield that covers the window motor and inner door?
That's a very helpful response. It was intuitive to me that the butyl/aluminium should work - but no point having a squeak-free car that smells of tar! Many thanks.
👍 Great video and narration. One thing I would like to ask you though is to please include in all your videos the part numbers of the parts you used and the place to purchase the parts that you used, in your videos description as it would be very helpful.
Does the 25 percent coverage rule apply for the entire car as well? The floor and the roof? I am going to be trying this on my car and the 25 rule not only saves time but money as well.. thank you for an awesome video
What BRAND did you get? I've read that Fairchild are the BEST opposed to actual NOS but the Fairchilds TEAR at the seam as they glue corners to the rubber weather stripping that goes along the door. Any update?
If u buy HDF & MLV separately, do you need to glue them together before installing or just layer them next to each other? Also, when getting ready to re install door panel do u just let the MLV & HDF rest in between the metal and panel or does it need to be glued to the panel before reinstall. Tu
you don't have to glue them together if you buy them separate. but it's not a bad idea to do so. i used the factory panel to keep the Vinyl and foam from moving, but you can also use High end Velcro as well.
@@HillTopRidingStable1 you are in luck, because 3rd gens have a HUGE aftermarket. there's a bunch of web pages, Hawks, UMI, DSE, amazon, Founders, Hot-Part ex ex.
that's 100% normal the doors will be super tight for about 1-2 months but that means your door is acually sealing properly same goes for my T-TOP seal video seals were TIGHTTTTTT at first
I agree. I have a lower mile car with original weatherstrip and the door requires a solid push to close. To double check, drop your window a 1/8" - I bet there is a bit less effort required; works for me.
the stuff i got is all 1 piece. 1/8 mass loaded vinyl attached to a 1/4in high density foam. it's from amazon if i remember correctly. named (under carpet sound dampening)
Great video! On my '89 Formula, every time I go over a bump, there's a terrible rattling in the doors, whether the windows are up, or down. Would this address that? EDIT: OK, OK, actually, calling the sound my door makes "a rattling" is like calling Donald Trump's hairstyle "unique", or calling Bernie Sanders "'mature", or calling 4th Gens "stylistically challenged". I can run over a discarded pistachio nut shell in my Firebird and it sounds like somebody dropped a Buick on me from 15 stories up.
Just the fact that you have it apart might let you see what may have broken and fallen on the bottom of the door. I had several broken things in the bottom of my door.
I installed the door weather stripping and I have to say that was one of the WORST INSTALLS I've had to do. NOTHING correctly lined up! The plastic rivets were out and required you to STRETCH the weather stripping to line up to the next hole. Basically all of them had to be installed or the rivets would start to pull right out of the weather stripping itself. The WORST PART is the weather stripping at the top towards the inner door. The rubber is SO THICK it was EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to push it where it needed to go and then that caused 2 of the rivets to pull away. I gobbed on black RV silicone and QUICKLY put the door panel back together and closed the door hoping if I leave it closed for a week that it will harden and STICK the weatherstripping to the door. The door is SO DIFFICULT to close, almost to the point that you could bend the door panel pushing the door.. 1. How was your install? 2. Was it difficult to close? (requiring HARD SHUTTING) 3. If so, how long did it take before you can actually shut it normally or is that PERMANENT NOW???
just basic tools. i think it was one 7mm and a 10mm. the power lock is riveted in, i replaced mine with some parts store rivets. bolts will work as well.
Oh, and where did the new water proof layer of plastic go before you installed the door panel?? I did not see that added here....you will need it...!:) Any water will gather in the points not covered with that aluminium tape...from my experience anyway....still need that new plastic layer...
@@3rdGenGuy You are right, and it costs a whole lot less too!! Cheers buddy! My car is looking much better, as I did a LOT of restoration on it! Good thing I am good with my hands!LOL Sigh...projects are always a lot more than you expect them to be, eh!?LOL
any more than 25% does NOTHING. the 25% is all that's needed to dampen vibrations. don't let Dynamat fool you into thinking you need your entire car covered in it.
@@3rdGenGuy but how came you upon this information I guess is what I'm asking. I think you are the first to ever state this that I've seen. Clearly your results are incredible, I'm just curious how you figured it out I guess?
@@ariyanadumon4549 Dynomat, or any other butyl based sound dampeners only reduce the resonance in the panels. You only need to add the material until the panel loses its resonance.
Never use a power screw driver to install the interior screws. They should all be install using hand tools, should be started by turning in reverse until you feel the threads on the screw engage the threads into the part you are screwing the screws into, then turn them forward to hand tighten but not overly tight. Be very careful when screwing the plastic panel back on so as not to crack it.
Not bad to use power tool if you are very experienced and possibly using the torque clutch on the drill to avoid over torquing. Inexperienced folks might want to use hand tools to start.
@@3rdGenGuy Yes you work on million dollar jet fighter parts all day and you have a high skill level with many years if not decades of experience. But you need to understand who your UA-cam target audience is. Average everyday Work-a-Joe that thinks ever fastener they come across needs to be torqued to 900 ft-lbs. That doesn't understand that the plastic trim pieces weren't very well made to begin with and are now 3 to 4 decades old and sun baked, dried out, and brittle just wanting for you to look at them wrong to crack, break into a million pieces or turn to dust. They don't understand that the self-tapping screws they are screwing into the sheet metal or plastic need to engage and follow the existing threads before screwing them in. Most of these people will be doing this for the first time. They need to be able to learn from the experience we gained from our mistakes that took us decades to acquire.
the done light wasn't part of the video. HOWEVER! check out this video link BELOW at 7:50 for installing the dome light. ua-cam.com/video/yZM6ENGDqjQ/v-deo.html
3rd Gen Guy my car is 80% stripped. Going all the way as soon as posible. Anything to save an ounce as soon as possible. Any wire i dont need will be removed. Any hole i can drill out without loosing structural integrity will be drilled( with a cage)
My friends always get mad when i slam doors on their BMWs. I just got used to 90s GM doors weighting 500lbs. satisfying thud after sound dampening though.
He had to because after installing new soft weather stripping like that the doors no longer close. Something that never sit well with me. They say it gets easier as they break in
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
that door slam at the end was satisfying as hell. I gotta make these upgrades on my 3rd gen, my doors sound hollow lol
Thank you so much! I just purchased a 1982 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 with only 44,500 miles. I'm super happy with it and have always wanted one since I was a kiddo
That was one of the best videos I have seen on the entire door system aka door rebuild basically. great job!
Best video covering any part of the third gen I've seen yet! My doors are a wreck and I'll be doing ALL of this!
INstead of metal tape I use the blu contractors insulation tape...it lasts and holds better without tearing...just an extra tip!:) Remember to also check the door hinges, as the door is going to be much heavier than before with all the extra material added, so if the door sags now, it may not even close right once all this is done. Trust me,...do those first! Also, lubricate with a sheep oil..used for food factory parts, as that is water resistant and STAYS rather than WD40...I have also found that to work best, and it also prevents rust! There is also a macro wrench kit that fits those bolts better on the outer window edging. Now do you have tips on how to properly re align the window triangle? If that is not installed correct, your window will not open and close correctly...I know, it took me forever to get it to set up right with the new triangle I had to install....sigh...
What kinda tape? Like for electrical work? Foam backed? What? Starting to gather supplies. Searched blu contractors insulation tape, results are vast, more descriptive please.
@@scottb_02 I use the blue industrial tape used outside for insulation taping etc...like the red stuff, but I like the blue better now as it is even stronger! It really STICKS to the surface and stays there, which is more than I can say for any other tape out there. At least over the past 20 years mine sure has worked well!:) Any adhesives like spray bond etc gets brittle over time. The contractors tape however stands very hot and very cold weather which is what it is meant to stand up to.
@@vickikgibson9470 Do you mean like the blue industrial grade duct tape?
@@ChristBuilt901x no. It us the insulation tape called tuck tape. But it us even stronger than the red stuff. Both are great as they do not get brittle in cold weather and do not get limp in high heat. Used in housing construction.
@@vickikgibson9470 Thank you so much i found the one you are talking about
Nicely done, thorough, exact, clear focused...made it look easy, made me think I was already done with mine!
Subscribed. Video was to the point without a side chatter. Well done.
That's going on my list of things to do to my 91. Great video
I'm glad you liked it.
3rd Gen Guy I don’t see where the foam goes I only see you put the vinyl
@@3rdGenGuy Can u guide me on the material to buy and where I got the dynomat but need to buy the other stuff
Like others commented, I also like the stepped out process with good editing you are doing. And showing all items like seals, lubricating, fasteners, and reassembly.
I’ve been watching your videos all day, man! It’s good stuff and covers everything! Keep it up, you’re helping me a lot with my 3rd gen rebuild!
Greetings from Torrance! Very good video. Very detailed and nice explanation of sound deadening. The funny thing is, these cars(or I should say my car) is known to have squeaks and noises coming from all over the car. Its part of the character of the car and its almost appreciated. The 3rd gens weren't known for great build quality. They have a look that is really appreciated by those who love them. The 3rd gens look fast, even though today's honda civic could beat it in a race, but they have the total 80's look. So I kind of appreciate the little rattles. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
if the car has squeaks everywhere, install Subframe connectors.
that's 75% of the issue solved.
@@3rdGenGuy When I bought my IROC 10 years ago, it was completely stock. Original radio, faded(but original) paint. Loved the fact that it was original. Now because some knucklehead delivery driver dented my driver's door and quarter panel, I am forced to resto mod it. I will keep it clean and as close to original, but will upgrade the headlights and a few other things. Will definitely check out all of your videos. Thank you sir for your attention to detail!
great video . I am doing this right now. Could you show and tell me how or where to install the foam.
factory steel--CLD tile dynamatt fa*t matt exe -- closed celled foam, then mass loaded vinyl.
@@3rdGenGuy thank you
Superb video. Could not have been clearer. Well done!
Love the 3rd gen Camaros!
I always wondered why they never got the love from that generation that they deserved. By far this body style stands out on its own and ahead for its time.. by far one of my favorite since I had owned a new 1987 IROC Z28 back in the day.
it was a SMOG era car and the LOW power numbers hurt their reputation.
but as 1st and 2nd gens get more and more expensive more and more people are going to 3rd gens.
There's a great many guys who own a 5th/6th gen AND a 3rd gen.
Extremely helpful video. Considering a z28 myself with a 383 stroker. Needless to say, I was going to daily drive it with some earplugs in, but this will reduce that rattle. Thanks again.
Your videos are very helpful. Thanks for sharing, I will be doing this to my 91 Trans Am this week.
Outstanding!! I have my next project for the spring all lined up now thanks to you :)
Love the videos. I read that you got the foam and vinyl from Amazon, so you happen to have the product numbers for those? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, etc. Thanks again.
Very good job on the video, you went very in detail and straight to the point, keep them coming you got a new subscriber.
did this according this vid. quite pleased with the outcome. especially the new door rails (bought ar hawks) where straight instead of cheap curved as the factory ones. much less rattle now!
dude, that was one of the best how-to videos! great job!
Incredible production quality , look forward to doing this myself following your guide.
Thanks!
Great video. Thanks. I need to replace my lower door weather strips. 👍
I plan to redo the entire interior of my 86 Camaro, so this is helpful.
all done?
This great, loads of good info. Thank you!
Thank you! You are awesome! I greatly apreaciate these videos
Fantastic video, thank you. I've got a 2001 z28 and the rear hatch leaked and rain soaked the floors of the back driver seat. I've already removed half the interior, I'm thinking I might as well just do it all right and insulate the whole thing.... "While I'm in there...." This is going to take a few weekends. Thanks for the step by step instructions! - from Napa California
These techniques will work on any car really.
Just an FYI, the Metal tape method only held up for about a year.
a better method would be using an adhesive.
That ductape was probably the best option.
Any suggestions on type of adhesive to use? 🤔
@@seando87 NO, duct tape gets dry and brittle in ONE summer....even the good stuff...DON"T USE IT!!
This pleases me. I know what I’m doing soon!
This is exactly what i was looking for . awesome video !
Thank God somebody covered this !!! Thank you !!!
I see you put the high density foam but what about the vinyl
Was wondering that too
all you need it dyno mat or killmat in some of the places on the door and it be solid as the one in the video and you wont here the road noise, and cover the entire floor board in dyno mat or killmat. killmat is better, its 80mil.
Thanks for your efforts, I was going to restore my 82 Camaro and worry that I will face issue with doors and panels.
Thank you I have a 1985 iRock Z I may need to do this to at some point
I recently bought a 87 and for a car almost 40 years old it doesn’t rattle at all. Only thing I noticed is a slight squeak in the rear suspension.
Ohhh that makes so much more sense thank you sooooo much !!!
fantastic video keep it up more 1982-1992 camaro videos!!
As always, great videos, great explanation. Thank you Sir.
Question for clarification - at the 6:49 time mark you say the "vinyl touches the cardboard and the high density foam touches the metal of the door". At that time mark though, the video shows the plastic moisture barrier lying on top of the vinyl...as you mention this layering process. Based on what I saw then, did you sandwich the plastic moisture barrier in between the vinyl and foam? I'm guessing you did, since when you placed the finished door pad back onto the door at the 9:52 mark, it doesn't appear the plastic moisture barrier is present in the original factory position.
Also, at the 6:39 mark you say to cut out the vinyl so it fits INSIDE the push pins. What exactly did you use to keep the vinyl attached to the door pad to keep it in place when the door pad is stood upright? The same question would apply to the foam as well. I first assumed you were using the push pins to keep the materials aligned, but the video clearly describes and shows the material is cut inside of the push pins. Are you using some type of adhesive?
Thank you for all the great information!!
the factory moisture barrier film is what kept everything from moving around.
a better method would be something like 3m adhesive glue spray.
as far as the foam, vinyl combo.
just make sure the mass loaded vinyl doesn't touch any metal.
So just to make sure...your layering system in order then was the cardboard door panel, vinyl, foam and then the plastic moisture barrier? (Plastic moisture barrier holding it all together and attached to the panel with the clips). This whole thing is then mounted to the door?
I ordered all new weather seals from Ecklers (Rick's Camaro's), and so far I've done the passenger side door. The molded ends on the outer door seal don't seem correct. For instance, the front one is about 1/2 inch off from the vertical screw and the front screw is too high. Also, I can barely get my top rail to install in the door properly with the triangle seal bracket installed. Any tips/help with that? Thanks
the screw holes may not line up. GM used self tappers screws and placed them haphazardly. I had to drill a hole myself in my driver side to get them to line up. 90s GM quality lol
@@3rdGenGuy lol I figured, I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill new holes but I'll likely have to. Thanks for the reply and the videos, they're great!
does the plastic glue to the vinyl then the foam on top of that glued, or is the barrier shield(plastic) separate from the vinyl attached to the foam to the door ?
This product had the foam and Vinyl as 1 piece. I used the plastic to keep it in place when I installed the door panel.
Car metal--foam--vinyl--plastic--door pannel
@@3rdGenGuy i would definetely use super 77 3m glue to glue vinyl to panel itself then the foam glued on that, is that cool?
How much high-density foam and black vinyl and dynamat will I need for both doors?
Questions: I've talked with a Lot of people who ordered the door weather stripping and they indicate the rubber rips off the push pins, even within a few days... Have you had any negative experinces 4 years later? GM glued the same areas as you did in yours but others have said unless you apply glue along the sides and underneath (in turn reinforcing the area where the push pins are), the rubber would rip right off the push pins..
Has this happened to you with only the adheisive on the top two weather striping ends?
I have not had any ripping issues.
BUT my car doesn't get many miles
I've driven/raced maybe 10,000 miles tops.
Any harder to shut? Apparently a common issue I hear is that the rubber on the ends are thicker (On the triange side) and makes it harder to get the door to shut.. ?
@@thecamarogarage doors have to be slammed, but that was always the case as a 3rd gen door is like 9 million lbs.
DO you have a material list? products you used and where you got them please?
Dynamat, fatmat ex ex
Mass loaded vinyl
high density foam
@@3rdGenGuy thank you sir!
QUESTION. what is that plastic layer for? You didn't list it when listing materials. I thought the high density foam touches the metal of the door. Is this plastic layer any different from the factory plastic water shield that covers the window motor and inner door?
it's just a moisture barrier. my stock one was all messed up so i got a new one online.
@@3rdGenGuy i camt find them anywhere! Please help
@@datboired832 www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-92-camaro-firebird-doors-moisture-barrier-shield-pair/
Really helpful video!
What is the 1/2 or so piece of metal that is attached to the weather strip you removed? Thanks.
have a time stamp in the video?
i don't know of hand when ur talking about.
2:29. L shaped metal strap with holes in it.
Any tips for doing the floor, roof, and rear? :)
same thing.
25% CLD tile
foam
then mass loaded vinyl
Awesome. Thank you, sir!
Where did you get the vinyl and foam mat?
mostly online.
mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam.
Can you put aside to where I can buy the supplies?
it's available online.
eBay or amazon
Thanks for your tip on economic use of sound damping. Question: Can a generic roofing aluminium reinforced butyl tape be used instead?
you can, but it will always smell and it reacts to heat.
the proper Fatmat or the off-brands aren't THAT expensive .
That's a very helpful response. It was intuitive to me that the butyl/aluminium should work - but no point having a squeak-free car that smells of tar! Many thanks.
for the back hatch area, is that 25% coverage as well or all of it? same as with the floor 25%?
any metal panel on the car, 25-30%
Do you have a link where you put the vinyl and the soundproofing foam
it's called "Mass loaded Vin yl"
can be purchased on amazon or eBay
👍 Great video and narration. One thing I would like to ask you though is to please include in all your videos the part numbers of the parts you used and the place to purchase the parts that you used, in your videos description as it would be very helpful.
you mean 1:00 - 1:23???
Hawks third gen
Does the 25 percent coverage rule apply for the entire car as well? The floor and the roof? I am going to be trying this on my car and the 25 rule not only saves time but money as well.. thank you for an awesome video
yep, 25% on any body panel.
Awesome video.
What BRAND did you get? I've read that Fairchild are the BEST opposed to actual NOS but the Fairchilds TEAR at the seam as they glue corners to the rubber weather stripping that goes along the door.
Any update?
i used the SuperSoft seals. they work alright, but in HEAVY wind and rain i still get a few leaks.
@@3rdGenGuy very interesting... what about closing? Is it harder to close?
@@thecamarogarage any new weather seals will make the doors and t-tops hard to close for the first few months. pretty normal.
@@3rdGenGuy but ok now?
Hi i have camaro 92 convertible do you think its good for swap to ls
Did you put the foam on? Nice video, good thinking
If u buy HDF & MLV separately, do you need to glue them together before installing or just layer them next to each other? Also, when getting ready to re install door panel do u just let the MLV & HDF rest in between the metal and panel or does it need to be glued to the panel before reinstall. Tu
you don't have to glue them together if you buy them separate. but it's not a bad idea to do so.
i used the factory panel to keep the Vinyl and foam from moving, but you can also use High end Velcro as well.
3rd Gen Guy thank you.
Great Video
You're a hero
Awesome, my 85 Berlineta doors use rattle like spray cans
mine was tight and sounded solid,you got a high mile beater?'
Do you know any good websites to at for 82-92 Camaros I’m just starting my 3rd gen project and was just curious
I have a 3rd gen just wandering on what sites to look for, for parts, accessories, etc.
@@HillTopRidingStable1 you are in luck, because 3rd gens have a HUGE aftermarket. there's a bunch of web pages, Hawks, UMI, DSE, amazon, Founders, Hot-Part ex ex.
3rd Gen Guy Thanks, I really appreciate it
Hawksmotorsports.com is a good one
Did you have any trouble with the new door seals? I installed ones that looked very similar and now the doors wont close without slamming.
that's 100% normal
the doors will be super tight for about 1-2 months
but that means your door is acually sealing properly
same goes for my T-TOP seal video
seals were TIGHTTTTTT at first
I agree. I have a lower mile car with original weatherstrip and the door requires a solid push to close. To double check, drop your window a 1/8" - I bet there is a bit less effort required; works for me.
I liked your video and looks pretty doable.....what website did you use for the items I can not find on the local store.
I got the Mass loaded Vinyl, high density foam, and CLD tiles from amazon.
Out of curiosity, where did you buy your high density foam and vinyl?
i got mine off amazon. but there's a bunch of websites.
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
that guy sells it as well.
good video bud, it helped me out.
I’m gonna try it.
How many new plastic clips did you buy?
I don't remember the exact amount, but it was Two orders from Hawks Motorsports.
Nice video. How much time is involved with the sound dampening project?
a weekend depending on how it goes.
ya know the drill, fix one thing a break ANOTHER
My door panel was also broken from the top plastic of the door. I made a new one with hardboard. Just traced the old one.
Great job!!
Where does the foam go I only see you put on the vinyl :(
the stuff i got is all 1 piece.
1/8 mass loaded vinyl attached to a 1/4in high density foam.
it's from amazon if i remember correctly. named (under carpet sound dampening)
3rd Gen Guy would 9 square feet per door be enough
Basically 3x3 I think it would
Great video!
On my '89 Formula, every time I go over a bump, there's a terrible rattling in the doors, whether the windows are up, or down. Would this address that?
EDIT: OK, OK, actually, calling the sound my door makes "a rattling" is like calling Donald Trump's hairstyle "unique", or calling Bernie Sanders "'mature", or calling 4th Gens "stylistically challenged". I can run over a discarded pistachio nut shell in my Firebird and it sounds like somebody dropped a Buick on me from 15 stories up.
that sounds like there's something broken in your door.
but you might as well sound treat it if ur gonna take the panel off anyways.
Just the fact that you have it apart might let you see what may have broken and fallen on the bottom of the door. I had several broken things in the bottom of my door.
beautiful 3rd gen
Great job I have a 83 Z28
I installed the door weather stripping and I have to say that was one of the WORST INSTALLS I've had to do.
NOTHING correctly lined up! The plastic rivets were out and required you to STRETCH the weather stripping to line up to the next hole. Basically all of them had to be installed or the rivets would start to pull right out of the weather stripping itself.
The WORST PART is the weather stripping at the top towards the inner door. The rubber is SO THICK it was EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to push it where it needed to go and then that caused 2 of the rivets to pull away. I gobbed on black RV silicone and QUICKLY put the door panel back together and closed the door hoping if I leave it closed for a week that it will harden and STICK the weatherstripping to the door.
The door is SO DIFFICULT to close, almost to the point that you could bend the door panel pushing the door..
1. How was your install?
2. Was it difficult to close? (requiring HARD SHUTTING)
3. If so, how long did it take before you can actually shut it normally or is that PERMANENT NOW???
the door and t-tops will be super hard to close for the first few months. that's normal as the rubber seats to the door.
@@3rdGenGuy damn. Even opening the door is this LOUD THUD that you can tell just how much strain it's pulling on the door.
@@thecamarogarage give it time, it'll settle itself out.
Great video
What Tools Would I Need For This. An Im So Glad I Found Your Channel I Was Lost Lol. I Saw Some Guy Do Is Whole Car In The Hushmat
Also How To Instal The Power Locks
just basic tools. i think it was one 7mm and a 10mm.
the power lock is riveted in, i replaced mine with some parts store rivets. bolts will work as well.
So should we just do the doors and roof? Great video btw.
if you have a hard top, doing the roof will be very beneficial. you might only have room for the CLD tiles through.
Hola ocupo partes de camaro plis
this is a great info, however you did not finish footage for the exact method used of the door panels, you just kind of skipped to installment.
Oh, and where did the new water proof layer of plastic go before you installed the door panel?? I did not see that added here....you will need it...!:) Any water will gather in the points not covered with that aluminium tape...from my experience anyway....still need that new plastic layer...
Mine was from HAWKS motorsport.
but any semi thick plastic will do.
@@3rdGenGuy You are right, and it costs a whole lot less too!! Cheers buddy! My car is looking much better, as I did a LOT of restoration on it! Good thing I am good with my hands!LOL Sigh...projects are always a lot more than you expect them to be, eh!?LOL
Creo iré a usa , a qui no hay plásticos y los que hay son demasiado caros ,
I hate how bad the door seals fit. Mine was a pain in the ass to get in! Should have got the one from hawks like you did
well my T-top seals from "super soft" never quite sealed either.
there's a tiny drip inside when it rains hard.
So wait, why only 25% coverage with the dynamat?
any more than 25% does NOTHING.
the 25% is all that's needed to dampen vibrations.
don't let Dynamat fool you into thinking you need your entire car covered in it.
@@3rdGenGuy but how came you upon this information I guess is what I'm asking. I think you are the first to ever state this that I've seen. Clearly your results are incredible, I'm just curious how you figured it out I guess?
@@ariyanadumon4549 Dynomat, or any other butyl based sound dampeners only reduce the resonance in the panels. You only need to add the material until the panel loses its resonance.
@@runslikeapenguin Thank you both for the information, it's been an eye opener. :)
man you don’t even provide links to the items come on now, other than that good video
Plays great at 2x
Never use a power screw driver to install the interior screws. They should all be install using hand tools, should be started by turning in reverse until you feel the threads on the screw engage the threads into the part you are screwing the screws into, then turn them forward to hand tighten but not overly tight. Be very careful when screwing the plastic panel back on so as not to crack it.
You can use power tools if ur a boss like i am.
i work on $1,000,000 fighter jet parts all day, i can screw in a couple sheet metal screws on a car
Not bad to use power tool if you are very experienced and possibly using the torque clutch on the drill to avoid over torquing. Inexperienced folks might want to use hand tools to start.
@@3rdGenGuy Yes you work on million dollar jet fighter parts all day and you have a high skill level with many years if not decades of experience.
But you need to understand who your UA-cam target audience is. Average everyday Work-a-Joe that thinks ever fastener they come across needs to be torqued to 900 ft-lbs. That doesn't understand that the plastic trim pieces weren't very well made to begin with and are now 3 to 4 decades old and sun baked, dried out, and brittle just wanting for you to look at them wrong to crack, break into a million pieces or turn to dust. They don't understand that the self-tapping screws they are screwing into the sheet metal or plastic need to engage and follow the existing threads before screwing them in.
Most of these people will be doing this for the first time. They need to be able to learn from the experience we gained from our mistakes that took us decades to acquire.
@@Airwolf1971 Your point of the average guy is rock solid.
@@3rdGenGuy He was talking to your viewers. Your defensiveness shows weakness. He's right about the average person.
Where’s the window video
Your voice kind of reminds me of Will Ferrell
I recently changed my MIC setup and it removed the monotone. apparently i was doing it wrong lol.
I need rabal
The more accurate first step is to go to harbor freight and buy torx bits.
He did not reinstall the dome light
the done light wasn't part of the video.
HOWEVER!
check out this video link BELOW at 7:50 for installing the dome light.
ua-cam.com/video/yZM6ENGDqjQ/v-deo.html
Just strip it. Cmc racing guys are getting these down to 2700 lbs with nose to tail cage
naaaaaaa im' good. I do Autocross but i like to drive to work with it.
Stripped cars are unpleasant.
i know that first hand
3rd Gen Guy my car is 80% stripped. Going all the way as soon as posible. Anything to save an ounce as soon as possible. Any wire i dont need will be removed. Any hole i can drill out without loosing structural integrity will be drilled( with a cage)
well have fun man.
it's not my cup of tea, but it's your car.
This video sounds like it was made in the 80s.
I accidentally recorded Audio in Mono mode. lol.
now i just need a 3rd gen.
applies to any car.
Test the door.
What would i Be testing?
You kinda made me mad by slamming that door so goddamn hard
My friends always get mad when i slam doors on their BMWs.
I just got used to 90s GM doors weighting 500lbs.
satisfying thud after sound dampening though.
He had to because after installing new soft weather stripping like that the doors no longer close. Something that never sit well with me. They say it gets easier as they break in