Nice One! Interesting and different. Got abit Worried when you mentioned hairspray, rubber gloves and rubbing oil but all was revealed. Some might call you almost Obsessive with detail, all I see is a person with Creativity, Talent and Patience - Cheers
Interesting procedure there, i was not aware of the washable white wash before. Sounds like a really nice way to spice a winter camo up. Will keep an eye open for it :)
Worked in a hobby shop when i was young. An ex german tanker told us they just walked around the tank with a bucket and a mop and just slapped on the paint. Which was usualy pigment cut with diesel fuel.
Ah yes comrade, we are now ready for winter warfare... roll out! Superb winter white wash tutorial and you've elevated this camo scheme to the next level. I've seen this done with great effect using white oil paint, but you've certainly shown this acrylic product can be employed in the same manner with masterful affect. I think what most people forget is that field applied camo is done out of necessity and practicality and making it visually appealing is never at the fore front of a tankers mind. It must do one thing and one thing only and that's to function as an additional layer of blending into the environment to increase survive-ability. I now believe this should become a staple step in the winter camo application to any tank model. You've achieved a very authentic look to my eye. Kutgw! :) Cheers!
As usual you knock it out of the park P-36 you are the only one besides Andy's Hobby Headquarter that I watch. Keep up the terrific job. You are the BOMB....
Many years ago, I read an article, yes, well before UA-cam, where a modeler painted a DAK vehicle in a steel color and then painted over that with a DAK yellow paint. He then utilized a "airbrush media blaster", like a sand blaster but it used fine grain media, to remove some of the DAK paint, leaving the steel color behind. The effect was very cool. It appeared that wind blown desert sand had removed the paint. I'm guessing that chipping with hairspray could be used for the same effect. I've never seen anyone use a media blaster since that one article but I see hairspray chipping all the time. Thoughts?
I'm using the washable paint on the Jumbo just now it's really good stuff eh! What am doing though what's quite difficult is the weather again over that! Even though it's varnished some of the earth dark redish bleach the white pink! I had 3 layers of varnish on before hand aswell
I tried to simulate 'broom painting' but i used oil instead of whitewash paint to fill in the large 'painted' areas.Citadel air chip's OK,and is a very thin paint.I got some Mr metal colour Dark Iron,it was'nt much cop,but if you don't shake bottle too much you get a dark charcoal colour and it runs like a mineral spirit wash.And when you 'buff it' because its not shaken theres less graphite,so only very high points go metallic.Very crisp effect.I used it for 'crew welded' add on's.
Hey man! Long time! Thank you for the awesome video! I was literally about to google how to do the hairspray chipping when I saw you'd just posted this video!
That hairspray bottle was almost as big as you... :D :D. Good to see your technique and how you apply the white wash. Mine is similar but everyone has their own style. KUTGW!
I like to keep it real and simple, get about a too the right scale bucket fill it with paint, take a brush that is big enough for a too the right scale guy would have. Then blob it on. If I don't cover the entire vehicle then I thin it down so I can use more of it just like they would do in real life.
Really great video, pal. You could use water instead of the Tamiya thinner, and it's important to mention DO NOT use lacquer thinner, as it will not come off! On my pziv schurzen, I took off too much of the whitewash, so I clearcoated again, hairsprayed, then sprayed on more white paint then weathered. I think I remember doing this 3 or 4 times actually until I was satisfied. You need to clearcoat so that the underneath layers won't run off. KUTGW. Nice to see you videoing (?) again.
Yes, lacquer thinner just makes the paint dry harder so it can be harder to chip. I've done it in the past with Tamiya and Lacquer thinner, and recently did it on a DAK Panzer using AK Real Colors which are lacquer. Those chipped super nicely.
Now I don’t paint armor but I’ve been curious about applying whitewash as a moon/space camp on a zeon mobile suit. Like it was a ground unit but they convert it space. My main concern is being able to show the scale of the hand painting on something as massive as a ms.
It would be tricky in 1/100 or 1/144 scale, but I imagine still doable. A fine brush could be used to apply strokes, or a fine airbrush nozzle used to simulate a scale spray pattern.
@@Panzermeister36 yea that was kind of my thought too and 144 would be damn near impossible to do if your trying to make it look truly hand applied like you have here. . I think the best plan would be to make it highly chipped so you can get away with a very light coat maybe. I’ll keep the idea in the back of my head for later...
I love watching the hairspray technique and how well it works. I know you were explaining why the acryllics work differently but can this technique still be achieved on vehicles already painted with acryllics? I'm nervous to mess up my German miniatures that are already painted.
+thatFUBAR guy I always do the hairspray chipping with acrylics so you should be okay to do it. It just depends on the type of acrylics...Tamiya and Ammo seen to chip well, but Vallejo not so well. I'd recommend testing your paints with the technique first on a spare model.
Great use of the air and paint brush and techniques once again. Now. If only you could turn some attention to some UK armour and influence us with the Olive Drab, etc. colours... There is nobody of note covering Allied vehicles.... :-)
@@Panzermeister36Thank you for your response - and encouraging to look forward to a Sherman, in what form? Any future British WW2 equipment? I am currently working on a Crusader III. AA Mk.1 and using Italeri's Crusader and Bronco's Bofors... So a lot of my own scratch built innards for the drivers position,, stowage boxes and other bits'n'bobs. ...As well as an AFV Club Churchill and Accurate Armour's ARV Mk.1 conversion kit... I haven't modelled for 40+ years (returning due to the Civid-19 lock down!) and I am back to being very much the novice, again especially at 1/35, having done only 1/76 previously.... So lots of new skills, tools, paint options, etc. and there was certainly no photo-etch back in the day! It is amazing that with all the different marks of tank during the WW2 period, that there are so few videos on this App, that cover the less glamourous or (in)famous vehicles or the unusual derivatives - but always the "out of the box" Sherman's, Tigers, Panthers, etc. Don't take this to be a criticism or slight on you specifically, but take a look on this platform and there is little or no British equipment (not a British or Commonwealt Sherman!) by a quality modeller doing anything of note on expanding the options of possibilities.... Even you and Uncle Nightshift were doing Tigers at the same time.... It is almost as though the British tanks and their equipment has been discounted, dismiseed and discarded as subjects of choice by the modelling fraternity! I will hold on and I can't wait to see your Sherman and see if it raises the bar again on what we mere struggling mortals can hope to achieve!
My Sherman is a US Easy 8...but as a Canadian, I enjoy commonwealth subjects and I have an M10 in the stash that I would like to do as a Canadian one from Korea. I also have a Crusader that is built but needs paint and weathering. I'll likely do the Crusader before September as it will be good practice for another project I will tackle that month.
I've never heard this question answered, or even ASKED!.... *WHAT* *EXACTLY* *IS* the chemical(s) in "hairspray", and why do they work the way they do....????....Has anybody ever tried different brands of hairspray to see if there's any difference....????.... Good video, btw....
Well it's just the fact that hairspray can be washed away (like washed out of your hair) that lets it be chipped like this using water. It's basically a thin adhesive layer that acts as a weak barrier once it dries. Other hairsprays also work, just avoid really expensive high-end ones as they're stronger and harder to chip.
When does paint stop chipping off is is finally set? Do you have to use a varnish to stop it from chipping and set it in place? Do you use a dull coat laquor at the end? Thanks. Nice tutorial
You don't have to apply a varnish, but you can. I don't always apply a varnish since it's a waste of time, but if it makes you feel more confident about weathering over it then you can apply one anyways. There is no harm in it.
I did Vallejo over tresemme last night and it was horrible. It came off way too easy. So I tried different thickness applications to see if anything changed. Not a damn thing changed. It was horrible each time. So my finished product is three levels of white wash. I will be going back to tamiya.
+Dan Timmerman yeah, those polyurethane acrylics like Vallejo and Mig don't HS chip very well. Tamiya and other alcohol based paints are much better for nice fine chips that look in-scale.
My only reason for using vallejo over tamiya is I have zero airbrush cleaner or x20a left. Every local and online hobby store I could find was backordered for both products. Definitely not paying a $24 ebay scalpers price either.
Super nice thing with the hairspray! Would it work with two coats too! I would use oxide red, then hairspray, then the actual camouflage, hairspray again, then the white? Could you then apply water to the oxide red with a brush? And how long would you have until it stopped working? Thanks ! Greetings from Germany!
I have tried that with some degree of success. You can either do red primer, hairspray, camouflage -- then chip. Let it dry and seal with a varnish. Then more hairspray and your white -- then chip that. Or, you can do it all with multiple layers and try to chip simultaneously. But this may make it difficult to keep the chipping refined as most will simply go right through to the primer, when you want most of the wear on the white to expose the camouflage and only some to show primer. So doing the process in two batches will give more control.
question. If decals are applied they should be applied after the chipping and before the washable acrylic, right? Building a winter camo version of a Marder III
Prolly a huge noob question but…. Can you do multiple hairspray/chipping layers on top of each other? Ex: primer/hairspray/ top color/ chip then hairspray/winter camo/chip?
Yes you can, but you might want to apply varnish between the two rounds of chipping. Otherwise, when you're chipping your winter white, it may start to activate the primer chipping layer as well a little bit.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks! I usually do military aircraft, but I’m about to do my 1st tank (Tamiya early Tiger) so trying to pick up all the tips & tricks I can.
You might be able to find resin recasts on ebay. I don't support pirate recasters, but if the original is out of production then it's not really taking money from the original maker anymore...
I am planning on doing a Sherman with this technique as it seems perfect! One question however. You mentioned you should do chipping of base coat prior to white wash. should you do that chipping with hairspray as well?
+Eric Semmelmayer you could do it with hairspray chipping, brush chipping, sponge chipping, salt chipping, or any other method. If you use HS chipping, be sure to let it dry before doing the second round of HS chipping for the whitewash since you don't want to chip the base colour further when chipping the winter camo.
Hello Mr.Panzermeister ... great tutorial :-) ... thanks for sharing ... something different ... maybe you know what happened to coen ? ... cant find his channel on youtube anymore ... it's so sad :-( ... i´ve no facebook ... pfff ... greetings make *
I applied a whitewash recently and just used oils after the whitewash application. You could do it before, but the areas under the white will be covered up. Another variation to the whitewash technique used by Evan is to airbrush a slightly off-white whitewash to help make it look grubby and then on top use an oil paint pure white/AK washable white over areas to create variation to the tone of the whitewash. Michael Rinaldi describes this variation of the technique in detail in his Tank Art 1 book. I think there may also be a UA-cam video where he covers the subject.
I might do it both before and after. Like I mentioned about doing chpping before the winter camo for interesting layer effects, some oil discolouration or streaking can work the same way. However on the little T-40 Im only going to use oils after the winter camo. I also didn't chip the green on it either...trying new stuff to save time and products :)
PM, I am not going to start my Sherman build for a while , so if you haven’t completed your t49 yet, please respond to my question when yo do. It might be in time
Thanks! I just purchased a Patriot 105 based on your recommendation. Do you need to completely break it down to clean it, or can you just run cleaner through it?
Badger 105 Patriot is excellent. It's what I used here and what I use for 90% of my work. It's easy to use and easy to clean, very durable, sprays super well... it's not too expensive either.
Brush painting a model isn't going to give as smooth a result as something even brush painted because there's a 35 times scale difference. Airbrushing is much faster, smoother, and gives a thinner paint application which doesn't ruin molded detail.
@@Panzermeister36 it isn't supposed to be a fine finish slap it on and hope an 88 doesn't take a tank turret off as it leaves the factory don't think they were looking for a nice smooth finish at the end of the day 🙄
I like the way you say şiş kebab, idk why. (Fact: şiş is the stick which you stick in the meat and then you put it on the fire leaving it to cook)
Nice One! Interesting and different. Got abit Worried when you mentioned hairspray, rubber gloves and rubbing oil but all was revealed. Some might call you almost Obsessive with detail, all I see is a person with Creativity, Talent and Patience - Cheers
Interesting procedure there, i was not aware of the washable white wash before. Sounds like a really nice way to spice a winter camo up. Will keep an eye open for it :)
Well now I need to try your paint thinner technique :)
Holy nice work Batman!
I think “magic” works well.
Thanks for another great weathering tutorial. Looking forward to your video on battle damage.
so accurate you are . so real you are !
Worked in a hobby shop when i was young. An ex german tanker told us they just walked around the tank with a bucket and a mop and just slapped on the paint. Which was usualy pigment cut with diesel fuel.
I now know how I'll paint my next German model.
Thanks that's a clear explination of this effect.
Super good video for beginners and intermidiate scalemodellers
Ah yes comrade, we are now ready for winter warfare... roll out! Superb winter white wash tutorial and you've elevated this camo scheme to the next level. I've seen this done with great effect using white oil paint, but you've certainly shown this acrylic product can be employed in the same manner with masterful affect.
I think what most people forget is that field applied camo is done out of necessity and practicality and making it visually appealing is never at the fore front of a tankers mind. It must do one thing and one thing only and that's to function as an additional layer of blending into the environment to increase survive-ability.
I now believe this should become a staple step in the winter camo application to any tank model. You've achieved a very authentic look to my eye. Kutgw! :)
Cheers!
As usual you knock it out of the park P-36 you are the only one besides Andy's Hobby Headquarter that I watch. Keep up the terrific job. You are the BOMB....
You should watch AF studio. In Russian but the techniques are amazing. My go-to videos.
@@steviegibson5847 thanks Stevie... I will give it a shot!
Thank you Michael :)
your vids always makes my sunday a little extra special
Many years ago, I read an article, yes, well before UA-cam, where a modeler painted a DAK vehicle in a steel color and then painted over that with a DAK yellow paint. He then utilized a "airbrush media blaster", like a sand blaster but it used fine grain media, to remove some of the DAK paint, leaving the steel color behind. The effect was very cool. It appeared that wind blown desert sand had removed the paint. I'm guessing that chipping with hairspray could be used for the same effect. I've never seen anyone use a media blaster since that one article but I see hairspray chipping all the time. Thoughts?
Hmm Gloves 2.0 Glad to see you have upgraded :D
Very nice Tutorial. the Washable white is great stuff
Superb!!!
Detail awesome , blended in scale subtle , great impression!!!!
I'm using the washable paint on the Jumbo just now it's really good stuff eh! What am doing though what's quite difficult is the weather again over that! Even though it's varnished some of the earth dark redish bleach the white pink! I had 3 layers of varnish on before hand aswell
Great job !! Thanks for sharing.
Great video Panzermeister! It’s good to see your making more videos!
Great product, I've been looking for this weathering medium. I was originally going to use ground up chalk.
Awesome tutorial Ev! Also it's wonderfully shot too!
Some good learnin' goin' on here, as per usual.
I tried to simulate 'broom painting' but i used oil instead of whitewash paint to fill in the large 'painted' areas.Citadel air chip's OK,and is a very thin paint.I got some Mr metal colour Dark Iron,it was'nt much cop,but if you don't shake bottle too much you get a dark charcoal colour and it runs like a mineral spirit wash.And when you 'buff it' because its not shaken theres less graphite,so only very high points go metallic.Very crisp effect.I used it for 'crew welded' add on's.
Great tutorial with great results. Thanks!
Awesome job! Thanks! I will try this out.
Hey man! Long time! Thank you for the awesome video! I was literally about to google how to do the hairspray chipping when I saw you'd just posted this video!
Really nice stuff. Many thanks.
Great video! I’ve been waiting to see that AK washable paint in action. Looks like you can achieve some really nice hard-painted effects.
Great video! Very well done.
That hairspray bottle was almost as big as you... :D :D. Good to see your technique and how you apply the white wash. Mine is similar but everyone has their own style. KUTGW!
Recommended? OK ill watch the whole thing..
Really nice, thanks for sharing. Probably more than I am capable of if I am honest but gives me some ideas for a more tabletop gaming level effect
I like to keep it real and simple, get about a too the right scale bucket fill it with paint, take a brush that is big enough for a too the right scale guy would have. Then blob it on. If I don't cover the entire vehicle then I thin it down so I can use more of it just like they would do in real life.
Great and very realistic
Really great video, pal. You could use water instead of the Tamiya thinner, and it's important to mention DO NOT use lacquer thinner, as it will not come off! On my pziv schurzen, I took off too much of the whitewash, so I clearcoated again, hairsprayed, then sprayed on more white paint then weathered. I think I remember doing this 3 or 4 times actually until I was satisfied. You need to clearcoat so that the underneath layers won't run off. KUTGW. Nice to see you videoing (?) again.
It will come of with lacquer thinner but it's harder for sure. Just did it recently...
@@joshuaramos8399 ok. It will come off but much more difficult! Stick to regular Tamiya X-20A or water is the point I'm making.
It comes off really easy with a sanding drum in a dremel, i find if you are crying while doing it it makes it more realistic
@@steviegibson5847 Definitely better with X-20A or water. But lacquer thinner was the only thing I had atm, haha.
Yes, lacquer thinner just makes the paint dry harder so it can be harder to chip. I've done it in the past with Tamiya and Lacquer thinner, and recently did it on a DAK Panzer using AK Real Colors which are lacquer. Those chipped super nicely.
Now I don’t paint armor but I’ve been curious about applying whitewash as a moon/space camp on a zeon mobile suit. Like it was a ground unit but they convert it space. My main concern is being able to show the scale of the hand painting on something as massive as a ms.
It would be tricky in 1/100 or 1/144 scale, but I imagine still doable. A fine brush could be used to apply strokes, or a fine airbrush nozzle used to simulate a scale spray pattern.
@@Panzermeister36 yea that was kind of my thought too and 144 would be damn near impossible to do if your trying to make it look truly hand applied like you have here. . I think the best plan would be to make it highly chipped so you can get away with a very light coat maybe. I’ll keep the idea in the back of my head for later...
I love watching the hairspray technique and how well it works. I know you were explaining why the acryllics work differently but can this technique still be achieved on vehicles already painted with acryllics? I'm nervous to mess up my German miniatures that are already painted.
+thatFUBAR guy I always do the hairspray chipping with acrylics so you should be okay to do it. It just depends on the type of acrylics...Tamiya and Ammo seen to chip well, but Vallejo not so well. I'd recommend testing your paints with the technique first on a spare model.
Superb.
Great! More tutorials from the Meister B-)
Great use of the air and paint brush and techniques once again.
Now. If only you could turn some attention to some UK armour and influence us with the Olive Drab, etc. colours... There is nobody of note covering Allied vehicles.... :-)
Yes :) a Sherman will be on the channel soon!
@@Panzermeister36Thank you for your response - and encouraging to look forward to a Sherman, in what form?
Any future British WW2 equipment?
I am currently working on a Crusader III. AA Mk.1 and using Italeri's Crusader and Bronco's Bofors... So a lot of my own scratch built innards for the drivers position,, stowage boxes and other bits'n'bobs.
...As well as an AFV Club Churchill and Accurate Armour's ARV Mk.1 conversion kit...
I haven't modelled for 40+ years (returning due to the Civid-19 lock down!) and I am back to being very much the novice, again especially at 1/35, having done only 1/76 previously.... So lots of new skills, tools, paint options, etc. and there was certainly no photo-etch back in the day!
It is amazing that with all the different marks of tank during the WW2 period, that there are so few videos on this App, that cover the less glamourous or (in)famous vehicles or the unusual derivatives - but always the "out of the box" Sherman's, Tigers, Panthers, etc.
Don't take this to be a criticism or slight on you specifically, but take a look on this platform and there is little or no British equipment (not a British or Commonwealt Sherman!) by a quality modeller doing anything of note on expanding the options of possibilities....
Even you and Uncle Nightshift were doing Tigers at the same time....
It is almost as though the British tanks and their equipment has been discounted, dismiseed and discarded as subjects of choice by the modelling fraternity!
I will hold on and I can't wait to see your Sherman and see if it raises the bar again on what we mere struggling mortals can hope to achieve!
My Sherman is a US Easy 8...but as a Canadian, I enjoy commonwealth subjects and I have an M10 in the stash that I would like to do as a Canadian one from Korea. I also have a Crusader that is built but needs paint and weathering. I'll likely do the Crusader before September as it will be good practice for another project I will tackle that month.
Will P. probably could have used some of these techniques on his invasion stripes...
Chris Corse I was thinking the same thing lol.
+Chris Corse maybe actually. I might have mentioned it to him but I forget now. Busy week :)
I've never heard this question answered, or even ASKED!.... *WHAT* *EXACTLY* *IS* the chemical(s) in "hairspray", and why do they work the way they do....????....Has anybody ever tried different brands of hairspray to see if there's any difference....????.... Good video, btw....
Well it's just the fact that hairspray can be washed away (like washed out of your hair) that lets it be chipped like this using water. It's basically a thin adhesive layer that acts as a weak barrier once it dries. Other hairsprays also work, just avoid really expensive high-end ones as they're stronger and harder to chip.
When does paint stop chipping off is is finally set? Do you have to use a varnish to stop it from chipping and set it in place? Do you use a dull coat laquor at the end? Thanks. Nice tutorial
You don't have to apply a varnish, but you can. I don't always apply a varnish since it's a waste of time, but if it makes you feel more confident about weathering over it then you can apply one anyways. There is no harm in it.
I did Vallejo over tresemme last night and it was horrible. It came off way too easy. So I tried different thickness applications to see if anything changed. Not a damn thing changed. It was horrible each time. So my finished product is three levels of white wash.
I will be going back to tamiya.
+Dan Timmerman yeah, those polyurethane acrylics like Vallejo and Mig don't HS chip very well. Tamiya and other alcohol based paints are much better for nice fine chips that look in-scale.
My only reason for using vallejo over tamiya is I have zero airbrush cleaner or x20a left. Every local and online hobby store I could find was backordered for both products. Definitely not paying a $24 ebay scalpers price either.
Cool
Do you need a varnish or another type of sealer to protect the underpaying and pin wash before you put on the hairspray?
Super nice thing with the hairspray! Would it work with two coats too! I would use oxide red, then hairspray, then the actual camouflage, hairspray again, then the white? Could you then apply water to the oxide red with a brush? And how long would you have until it stopped working? Thanks ! Greetings from Germany!
I have tried that with some degree of success. You can either do red primer, hairspray, camouflage -- then chip. Let it dry and seal with a varnish. Then more hairspray and your white -- then chip that. Or, you can do it all with multiple layers and try to chip simultaneously. But this may make it difficult to keep the chipping refined as most will simply go right through to the primer, when you want most of the wear on the white to expose the camouflage and only some to show primer. So doing the process in two batches will give more control.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you for the fast answer!👍😊
Hey bud ! Can you do the hairspray and chipped technique with the winter whitewash over an already painted and weathered model?
absolutely :)
question. If decals are applied they should be applied after the chipping and before the washable acrylic, right? Building a winter camo version of a Marder III
Usually the markings are applied to the base colour on the vehicle, so I would apply the decals before applying the hairspray and white paint on top.
@@Panzermeister36Thank you
Thanks for the tutorial. Be careful you left some personal info on the screen when you showed the time.
Lol, you're right, but that is long outdated information by now. I'll be more careful next time.
Prolly a huge noob question but…. Can you do multiple hairspray/chipping layers on top of each other? Ex: primer/hairspray/ top color/ chip then hairspray/winter camo/chip?
Yes you can, but you might want to apply varnish between the two rounds of chipping. Otherwise, when you're chipping your winter white, it may start to activate the primer chipping layer as well a little bit.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks! I usually do military aircraft, but I’m about to do my 1st tank (Tamiya early Tiger) so trying to pick up all the tips & tricks I can.
Thanks good info . What Turret is that? I like it.
It's a Wilder Resin turret for the T-34/122 concept. I believe it is out of production though.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks.
You might be able to find resin recasts on ebay. I don't support pirate recasters, but if the original is out of production then it's not really taking money from the original maker anymore...
I am planning on doing a Sherman with this technique as it seems perfect! One question however. You mentioned you should do chipping of base coat prior to white wash. should you do that chipping with hairspray as well?
+Eric Semmelmayer you could do it with hairspray chipping, brush chipping, sponge chipping, salt chipping, or any other method. If you use HS chipping, be sure to let it dry before doing the second round of HS chipping for the whitewash since you don't want to chip the base colour further when chipping the winter camo.
Thanks for the info! Turley appreciate your response
Hello Mr.Panzermeister ... great tutorial :-) ... thanks for sharing ... something different ... maybe you know what happened to coen ? ... cant find his channel on youtube anymore ... it's so sad :-( ... i´ve no facebook ... pfff ... greetings make *
+SCALE BENCH - plastic models I think he deleted his channel. I am not sure why though. Hamilkar was in better contact with Coen than I was.
Hi Mr.Panzermeister many thanks for you replay ... i will ask Michael ... see you make*
Could I work with white oils instead of the washable white?
+Rose Bubbles for sure! I do often use oils myself on winter camo. I think I have a video or two on that subject from a few years ago.
How much air pressure do you use ;when applying the white.
+Verne Beck not much, maybe 15 psi?
any alternative to the washable white?
I think Mig AMMO makes the same (at least a very similar) product. But it's quite unique.
Beautiful! Would you recommend oil weathering both before and after a whitewash?
I applied a whitewash recently and just used oils after the whitewash application. You could do it before, but the areas under the white will be covered up. Another variation to the whitewash technique used by Evan is to airbrush a slightly off-white whitewash to help make it look grubby and then on top use an oil paint pure white/AK washable white over areas to create variation to the tone of the whitewash. Michael Rinaldi describes this variation of the technique in detail in his Tank Art 1 book. I think there may also be a UA-cam video where he covers the subject.
I might do it both before and after. Like I mentioned about doing chpping before the winter camo for interesting layer effects, some oil discolouration or streaking can work the same way. However on the little T-40 Im only going to use oils after the winter camo. I also didn't chip the green on it either...trying new stuff to save time and products :)
Panzermeister36 cool! Thanks for the tip. Your channel is top tier for scale modeling stuff.
PM, how did it turn out when you didn’t chip the green before white washing?
PM, I am not going to start my Sherman build for a while , so if you haven’t completed your t49 yet, please respond to my question when yo do. It might be in time
Curious if i would get same effect when using Vallejo Model Air applied with brush Instead of an AK White Wash.
+Dennis Pfund no. The AK stuff is specifically designed to reactivate with water. It behaves differently.
Will it still chip if you let the paint dry longer?
It will but it will be difficult to chip. You may need something tougher than a brush to get the desired wear pattern.
Thanks! I just purchased a Patriot 105 based on your recommendation. Do you need to completely break it down to clean it, or can you just run cleaner through it?
Do you need to varnish the tank before?
Not in my experience. I rarely apply a varnish. But you can if you want to.
@@Panzermeister36 OMG THANK YOU (just ran out of varnish and im working on a winter tiger 1)
Hey guys, does anyone know any good beginner airbrushes? Many thanks
Badger 105 Patriot is excellent. It's what I used here and what I use for 90% of my work. It's easy to use and easy to clean, very durable, sprays super well... it's not too expensive either.
Panzermeister36 Great. Thanks for the help!
Panzermeister36 One more thing mate, do u mind making a vid on how to buy, use and clean airbrushes? Thanks
WHY does everyone have to airbrush ? Especially Soviet equipment it was slapped on with a brush go for it 🙄
Brush painting a model isn't going to give as smooth a result as something even brush painted because there's a 35 times scale difference. Airbrushing is much faster, smoother, and gives a thinner paint application which doesn't ruin molded detail.
@@Panzermeister36 it isn't supposed to be a fine finish slap it on and hope an 88 doesn't take a tank turret off as it leaves the factory don't think they were looking for a nice smooth finish at the end of the day 🙄
Could you apply hairspray &brush on white wash , skipping airbrush step would that work?
+Verne Beck I think that may work!