so you dont have any problems with the stock studs poking out when using the 15mm spacers with the stock wheels? dont you have to shave them to fit? or is it all good?
No sir, the stock gen 1 wheels have intrusions for the studs to go into. I'm not sure if this is also the case with stock gen 2 wheels, but I would imagine it is :)
Hi, I just looked at your video about the mazdapseed timing chain replacement for reference. I know you used the crankshaft locking tool but is there any alternative for this? Would it be safe to do the 90° turn with the cam locking plate and Tdc pin and the crank pulley bolt on ?
I wouldn't risk that. There is a lot of force being generated when tightening the additional 90 degrees. It's best to use just the crank pulley counter hold with all timing tools removed. For the initial 75 lb ft of the crank pulley bolt, it's fine to leave the cam locking plate and TDC pin installed as long as the small bolt that goes through the small crank pulley hole and into the timing cover is fully threaded in. Just be sure to take it slow :)
@@WannabeTuners I was able to get ahold of the tool and did everything step by step but now my issue is that the 20th tooth from the pulley does not line up with the crank sensor and is far up. when I put the cam plate on I had to wiggle the cams which moved the crank counter clock wise and moves from tdc. So in order to put the crank to Tdc the cams move and do not align and when I align the cams the crank moves from tdc
Yep I run them on all 4 corners. The spacers simply bolt up onto the original wheel studs with the nuts that come with the spacers, and then the wheels bolt up to the studs coming off of the spacers with the stock wheel nuts. The stock wheels have intrusions where the stock wheel studs protrude.
@@JuanRodriguez-gz7gv I usually run 225/45 R18 tires on the stock gen 1 wheels. Stock gen 1 tire size is 215/45 R18. In terms of what brand, anything that hooks lol. The ones I ran in this video were old worn out BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2 All Seasons, so traction was an issue through the turns and while accelerating.
Were you going WOT only at 4000+ or that's when the CST5 started to actually pull? The CST5 is similar to a GTX3071R gen1 so it should provide pretty decent boost from 2500rpm up (well, like 6PSI at 2500 but at 3000+ should be really lit up).
It's a BNR S5 and it's got a 0.82 AR turbine housing (so quite large). I notice quite a bit more lag compared to the previous turbo we had in the car (BNR S4). I may be able to get it to spool up a little earlier through tuning. I wasn't able to floor the gas fully as the old tires would just break loose, so I had to ease into it as rpm increased. With the current tune, the turbo really comes online right around 4500 rpm.
This guy running around TMP with an S5 LOL. I have locals telling me they're struggling to drive with an s3 at tmp haha. Larger turbo definitely changes the driving style you need to adapt to make the larger turbo useful. not always easy! speaking as someone who has tracked a GT3071r ms3 for 5 seasons now
Haha yeah man absolutely! It's much more difficult with the power band significantly shifted higher up in the rpm range. There's just barely any zoom zoom coming out of turns in 3rd gear lol
@@WannabeTuners yup. Correct solution? Apply throttle sooner. That’s all it is. Most drivers aren’t comfortable with this(less experienced guys I’m talking about) but yea that’s basically all it is lol. With your gen1 gears I’m surprised you’re having issues. I’ve never dropped below 3rd at tmp in my Mazda with the gt3071. Knowing boost is going to take a second to load means you know you can get on throttle a little sooner.
Because since the WOT box cuts ignition to limit revs, the oxygen that is now no longer used in the combustion process is detected by the AEM AFR failsafe, which then sends a trigger signal to the Guardian Angel, which then opens the BPV and dumps the boost. The solution would be to increase the AEM AFR failsafe trigger delay or avoid riding the rev limiter for too long, but I prefer having the delay as low as possible, so that in the event that the AUX fuel system stops working half way through a pull, the failsafe system will react sooner than later :)
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Looks like a great time! 👍🏼
Oh yeah totally, gotta love all the different flavors of cars lol
Ayee i made an appearance white speed 3
This looks awesome. CTMP is so much fun
Oh yeah it's always a blast at the track. Makes u realize just how slow your car can be haha
Super fun 😄
so you dont have any problems with the stock studs poking out when using the 15mm spacers with the stock wheels? dont you have to shave them to fit? or is it all good?
No sir, the stock gen 1 wheels have intrusions for the studs to go into. I'm not sure if this is also the case with stock gen 2 wheels, but I would imagine it is :)
Hi, I just looked at your video about the mazdapseed timing chain replacement for reference. I know you used the crankshaft locking tool but is there any alternative for this? Would it be safe to do the 90° turn with the cam locking plate and Tdc pin and the crank pulley bolt on ?
I wouldn't risk that. There is a lot of force being generated when tightening the additional 90 degrees. It's best to use just the crank pulley counter hold with all timing tools removed. For the initial 75 lb ft of the crank pulley bolt, it's fine to leave the cam locking plate and TDC pin installed as long as the small bolt that goes through the small crank pulley hole and into the timing cover is fully threaded in. Just be sure to take it slow :)
@@WannabeTuners I was able to get ahold of the tool and did everything step by step but now my issue is that the 20th tooth from the pulley does not line up with the crank sensor and is far up. when I put the cam plate on I had to wiggle the cams which moved the crank counter clock wise and moves from tdc. So in order to put the crank to Tdc the cams move and do not align and when I align the cams the crank moves from tdc
You guys rock
Do you have those wheel spacers on all 4 corners ? And do I need different wheel bolts or do stock work fine ?
Yep I run them on all 4 corners. The spacers simply bolt up onto the original wheel studs with the nuts that come with the spacers, and then the wheels bolt up to the studs coming off of the spacers with the stock wheel nuts. The stock wheels have intrusions where the stock wheel studs protrude.
@@WannabeTuners that’s exactly what I’m looking for !!!!! By any chance you have a link to where I could get a set of these ?!?!
@@WannabeTuners also what kinda of tires do you recommend to run on these stock wheel ?
@@JuanRodriguez-gz7gv Yeah man it looks like they sell them in pairs: eibach.com/us/1010/S90-4-15-002-MAZDA-3-pro-spacer
@@JuanRodriguez-gz7gv I usually run 225/45 R18 tires on the stock gen 1 wheels. Stock gen 1 tire size is 215/45 R18. In terms of what brand, anything that hooks lol. The ones I ran in this video were old worn out BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2 All Seasons, so traction was an issue through the turns and while accelerating.
Were you going WOT only at 4000+ or that's when the CST5 started to actually pull? The CST5 is similar to a GTX3071R gen1 so it should provide pretty decent boost from 2500rpm up (well, like 6PSI at 2500 but at 3000+ should be really lit up).
It's a BNR S5 and it's got a 0.82 AR turbine housing (so quite large). I notice quite a bit more lag compared to the previous turbo we had in the car (BNR S4). I may be able to get it to spool up a little earlier through tuning. I wasn't able to floor the gas fully as the old tires would just break loose, so I had to ease into it as rpm increased. With the current tune, the turbo really comes online right around 4500 rpm.
You ever try pulling timing like we talker about?
Hell yeah brother, that's the next thing on the to do list to try and get this big turbski to spool up faster haha
Nice!
Rippin!
Clean ass speed
Thanks!
This guy running around TMP with an S5 LOL. I have locals telling me they're struggling to drive with an s3 at tmp haha. Larger turbo definitely changes the driving style you need to adapt to make the larger turbo useful. not always easy! speaking as someone who has tracked a GT3071r ms3 for 5 seasons now
Haha yeah man absolutely! It's much more difficult with the power band significantly shifted higher up in the rpm range. There's just barely any zoom zoom coming out of turns in 3rd gear lol
@@WannabeTuners yup. Correct solution? Apply throttle sooner. That’s all it is. Most drivers aren’t comfortable with this(less experienced guys I’m talking about) but yea that’s basically all it is lol. With your gen1 gears I’m surprised you’re having issues. I’ve never dropped below 3rd at tmp in my Mazda with the gt3071. Knowing boost is going to take a second to load means you know you can get on throttle a little sooner.
Why the failsafe turned on? Know the rason?
Because since the WOT box cuts ignition to limit revs, the oxygen that is now no longer used in the combustion process is detected by the AEM AFR failsafe, which then sends a trigger signal to the Guardian Angel, which then opens the BPV and dumps the boost. The solution would be to increase the AEM AFR failsafe trigger delay or avoid riding the rev limiter for too long, but I prefer having the delay as low as possible, so that in the event that the AUX fuel system stops working half way through a pull, the failsafe system will react sooner than later :)