Mazdaspeed 3 - Smoking Turbo Fix - Turbosmart Oil Pressure Regulator & BNR S5 EWG Setup
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 гру 2020
- In this video we take a look at our Custom Oil Feed Line and BNR S5 External Wastegate Setup, which utilizes a Tial MV-R 44 mm wastegate. We needed to relocate the EWG actuator in order to make it work because the downpipe was in the way, so an ATP Low Profile Elbow from Edge Autosport was used. The custom oil feed line incorporates a Turbosmart Oil Pressure Regulator (T40), which reduces the oil pressure being fed to the turbochargers bearing system. This prevents oil from pushing past the turbine seal and burning up in the exhaust, yet still provides the turbochargers bearings with just the right amount of oil. We've also incorporated a Forced Performance FP Red Inline Filter, which prevents damage to the turbochargers journal bearings by filtering out engine break-in material usually associated with newly built engines. The internal filter is replaceable and can also be cleaned and re-used. Forced Performance recommends cleaning the filter out every oil change. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
Instagram - @wannabe_tuners
Merch - teespring.com/stores/wannabet...
** PLEASE NOTE ** Turbosmart now offers OPR V2 which does not require a return and already has an internal filter. This should make it much easier for those interested. Check it out on their website :)
** PLEASE NOTE ** that we needed to slightly grind down the exhaust inlet flange on the BNR S5's turbine housing to create clearance in order to fit the custom oil feed line in between the coolant feed hard line and the turbo's compressor housing. Also we highly recommend getting a -4AN male fitting welded to the oil pan instead of using the nut/washer type setup that we ran, because just recently we found signs of oil leakage at this connection, which means that the oil pan has to be completely removed to fix the leak. Having a fitting actually welded to the oil pan would be much easier to service in the event of a leak.
PARTS LIST:
Frame Fitting: AAF-ALL50105 (Quantity:1)
Banjo Fitting: EAR-997645ERL (Quantity:1)
-4 Straight Hose End: SUM-220490B (Quantity:6)
-4 SS Hose 10ft: SUM-230410 (Quantity: 1)
-4 AN to 12 MM x 1.5 Metric Adapter: VPE-16609 (Quantity:1) ours came with a crush washer
Turbosmart OPR -4 Fittings: TBS-TS-0802-1001 (Quantity:1) comes with 3 fittings
Turbosmart OPR T40: TBS-TS-0801-1002 (Quantity:1)
FP Red Inline Filter: FP-3053040A (Quantity:1)
Mods in this video:
1. Bnr S5 Turbo w/ Tial MVR 44mm Ewg
2. DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Cans
3. Cobb Accessport V3 (self tuned)
4. Aeromotive 325 LPH Fuel Pump
5. Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R
6. Stratified Guardian Angel V3
7. Full Race Exhaust Manifold
8. Ngk One Step Colder Plugs
9. 6th Port Aux Fuel Injection
10. Corksport Intake Manifold
11. CS Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount
12. DM Trans side Motor Mount
13. DM Pass side Motor Mount
14. Crushed In-Tank Regulator
15. Custom Radiator Ducting
16. Autotech HPFP Internals
17. Eibach Lowering Springs
18. Corksport Injector Seals
19. DM Egr Delete/Block Off
20. Cpe Catless Downpipe
21. Cfm Oil Breather Cap
22. Jbr Raider's Air Damn
23. Turbosmart OPR T40
24. MST Suzuka Wheels
25. Koni Yellow Shocks
26. FP Red Inline Filter
27. Gen 2 Valve Cover
28. CS 3.5 Inch Intake
29. Cobb 3 Port Ebcs
30. Fidanza Flywheel
31. Jbr Under Route
32. Cobb Xle Bpv
33. AEM Gauges
34. Cnt Catback
35. Built Engine
36. Tr8 Fmic
37. Wot Box - Авто та транспорт
So many little nuances to everything. Thanks for all the knowledge you share about our cars. Keep it up!
You guys are spoiling us before Christmas!!
Gotta comment before watching the video, I already know this info gonna be useful 🔥👌 thanks for supporting the platform bro
Love this channel, I wish you guys would upload some more
Thanks man! We plan on it once it starts to warm up outside :)
Love watching Wannabe Tuner videos 💯🔥 always a BIG BRAIN amount of knowledge 🤙🏽 keep em coming these videos are gonna be the future go-to.
I got this as a recommended vid, very good info here. Oil supply is very different for journal bearing vs. ball bearing. Also, in general pressure and flow rate are inverse; higher pressure has a lower flow rate if you've already reached or exceeded what that diameter is capable of. Managing the pressure will always ensure you have a constant and even flow.
Best video I seen on turbo oil pressure,great video
Thanks man, hope it helps :)
Love the content. Gotta get me one of those speeds!
Oh yeah they're fantastic little turbo cars to tinker with :)
It would be smart to monitor the oil pressure going to the turbo. You guys should make that video!
Very informative guys👍👍👍👍should ve bought the bnr s6 instead, u ve got a built engine now
Yeah totally hear ya man, but at this point we don't want response to suffer too much, and we don't plan on revving past 7500 rpm, because we can't tune past that with Cobb's Accesstuner software on the Gen 1's. Also it's only got a mild valve spring upgrade (Supertech 55lb) with an otherwise stock cylinder head. We'll see what the future holds though, because I never expected to get the car to this point. I remember saying to myself several years ago that all I wanted was the stock turbo with a decent tune 🤣
Nicely explain guys🔥🔥🔥
Very helpful, thanks for the video.
You're welcome 😊
great vids guys
Thanks man :)
Went through this same crap with my FoST with a EFR 6258. I got away with the Vibrant Restrictor, Was going to order the OPR, but got orders to Japan. Mountune sent me a new drain system for the EFR, but I plan on installing an OPR when we get back. Nice set up
I have the same turbo and its really smokey. Did you find any solution to this problem? I was thinking of the drain system upgrade but still cant decide if i also need a restrictor
@@alek_gk Sorry for the late reply, to tell you the truth; I installed an oil restrictor with a .060 hole on it. I have the upgraded drain , but it’s not installed yet . I am going to install it and remove the .060
Did you polish that CS Intake ? Looks so much better than the standard finish 😀
Yeah man I sanded it down with several stages sand paper by hand. Worked my way up to 2000 grit, then finished it off with Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish
Next video pretty pleeeeeease!! 🙏
Hey thanks for the support! We'll hopefully have some more videos soon ;)
Hi, very nice clean setup!!!
Dumb question: did oil pressure ( crank bearing )pressure also change?
Nope not at all, because this only drops pressure on the turbos feed line by bleeding oil off back to the oil pan
@@WannabeTuners must have somekind of restriction otherwise is like the main oil regulator in engine block
This is awesome. My Precision 5858 is also smoking big time during acceleration. Question though, did you guys drill a new hole into the oil pan to fit in the return oil line from the Turbo Smart Oil Pressure regulator? I'm going to get this kit.
Awesome, yeah we drilled and tapped into the oil pan. So far no leaks and no issues with the regulator. Works great at preventing oil from pressurizing into the exhaust. Here's a time stamp link to the video where we show how we drilled and tapped it:
m.ua-cam.com/video/99kDLCXaYI8/v-deo.html
@@WannabeTuners Thank you so much. Did you know your videos helped me a lot! When I wanted to install a Water Meth on my MK5 GTI, 2 years ago, I had your videos to thank for because I was able to follow them. Now this. Helps a lot! Thanks again!
@@half_r_mk5 Thanks man, we're very happy to hear that :)
@@WannabeTuners have another question, how long was the braided lines you purchased for the Oil Pressure Regulator? Especially the return line for it? Thanks! Merry Christmas!
@@half_r_mk5 Merry Christmas to u too! I purchased about 10 feet of braided line from Summit racing just to have a little extra
what fitting did you use for the feed of the OPR itself? coming from the block to the opr where the OEM oil feed line is. Is it the 4an to m12x1.5?
That's correct. We have some part numbers listed in the description and most if not all components were primarily ordered online from Summit Racing. Also the process of us tapping the oil pan and assembling the hoses into the fittings can be seen in the our Mazdaspeed 3 - Built Engine Assembly video found here: ua-cam.com/video/99kDLCXaYI8/v-deo.html
Different, its weird stepping into another community you don't know the linglo. Its cool . We call it a lift tho 🙃 , Aftermarket parts are pretty universal i tend to still to the same brand ie turbosmart everything. But overall fairly informative
Where can I buy the fitting that goes on the block? Can't seem to find that in the video or description. Thanks!
Hey man there's a complete parts numbers list in the description. Here is a link to where I bought the fitting that threads into the block:
www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16609
Is there any reason you kept the banjo and didn’t just get an AN fitting for the top of the turbo?
Tbh that never crossed my mind at the time, but that would probably work too :)
New version (OPR V2 Turbo Oil Pressure Regulator) ditches the return line. Makes it way easier to install one of these if you dont have to mess with all that. Oh, and it has a built in filter.
Beauty thanks for the great news! I'll add that to the description of this video :)
@@WannabeTuners My pleasure. Thanks for all the speed 3 content ;) Been thinking about buying a block just to build one out like yours. Still running stock with some mild bolt ons.
@@resignator Awesome stuff brother, happy to hear!
I have a stock mazdaspeed3 08 with 2nd cat and resonator delete with 156k miles on the odometer. the turbo has already been repaired with a new cartridge. and I have problems with the consumption of oil.
In the mornings it throws a little smoke and depending on the weather it throws a little black drops like oil but it is water because it feels like water lol and when I do hard accelerations past 4k rpm it throws smoke like this video but it arbitrary. Any suggestions ?
The car drives and feels good I didn't see power losses, could it be the valve seals, rings or bad turbo adjust ?
Greetings from Mexico
I would recommend starting with a compression test
Thanks for this video! Im here stumped with a build I have done and ran into this which may very well be the solution to my issue as well. I do have a question though, instead of tapping the oil pan for the return line from the regulator, can a fitting be put where the crankshaft gets locked to set up timing or does the return have to be submerged under the oil? Just a thought...
This is a great idea! I know some have also tapped into the oil filler cap area. Having easy access in the event of a leak is a great idea.
@@WannabeTuners I’m having the same problem I went as far as adding a sump tank and a scavenge pump with one way check valves this is my next and last step before I pull the motor
@irvingbar4569 I thought about some sort of pump on the turbos oil drain at one point. This OPR luckily does a great job at keeping turbo smoke in check.
@@WannabeTuners so where you getting oil on the hot side of the turbine on your downpipe?
@irvingbar4569 Yep oil pushes past the turbine seal and burns up in the exhaust. With this OPR, it keeps oil pressure to the turbo at right around 40 psi. This prevents oil from pushing past the turbine seal.
You said this is recommended with a journal bearing...So ball bearing it’s not needed ?
From what I remember reading, they also work with ball bearing turbos. That being said I would just double check with Turbosmart to be 100% sure :)
Great video guys! I'm over here stumped with my car, very similar issues with smoke, and crank case breathability. My engine is rebuilt, cst4 around 23 psi. I have 3 catch cans, intake to sealed to damond plate. Another vented can, both open ports on pcv plate to this can. Then a third vented can up top for valve cover breather. And a breather cap. I am getting smoke on occasion and also popping the dipstick. Gen 2, 10w30 oil. Did a comp test 170-150-170-170. Oil in cylinder 2, and compression went up to 170. Car makes good power. Is it possible that the smoke and dipstick popping are related somehow? Maybe one these will fix my problems? Wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks
Crankcase pressure is what causes the dipstick to blow out, and can also prevent oil from effectively draining out of the turbo. I'd start with ensuring that none of the PCV hoses are blocked and that the check valve between the intake manifold and sealed oil catch can isn't seized closed or oriented the wrong way.
@@WannabeTuners thanks for the reply. Ive been through the pcv system so many times. Check valves are correct, no blockage. New filter on the breather cap. Turbo drain line free. The car seems to be smoking less with less dipstick popage since I added the third can up top. I'm just stupefied at how many breathers the car has and still pops the dipstick. Another guy recommended 10w-40 oil. I may wire up a boost gauge to the system just to see what kind of psi gets to before it vents.
@@ninjanerek Yeah it's a little odd that even with all your crankcase pressure relief mods the dipstick still pops out. Is the dispstick secure in it's cavity? With your compression test results it's possible that the engine may be suffering from more blow by than usual
@@WannabeTuners thats definitely a possibility. Just upgraded disptick handle and she's snug. Ive got a friend that has a mad build who is having the same issues, he ended up getting a genpu valve cover with extra ports. As far as I know his motor is sound. Haven't heard back on his progress but I may pursue the same route. Nice job on your build BTW. That bay looks magnificent👌
@@ninjanerek Thanks man, hopefully that does the trick for ya :)
The frame fitting was used for the return to the pan, banjo for the turbo feed and metric adapter from block to opr? Just making sure, im ordering the return less opr and don't need a spare fitting.
If u end up going with the return style version, I'd recommend just getting a -4 AN male bung directly welded to the oil pan to prevent any possibility of a leak that requires the oil pan to be removed again to repair it. But if you're going with their V2 returnless style, that makes it easier
@@WannabeTuners yea I'm doing returnless. Did you use the frame fitting welded to the pan?
@@1knightstand81 The frame fitting was not welded, it was just threaded from the inside of the pan. I'm starting to see a slight oil sweat from that point so I will need to remove the pan. Once removed I will ditch the frame fitting and just weld a -4 AN male bung to the pan so that it won't leak again :) We actually show how we tapped into the oil pan in our Built Engine video.
What lower control arms did you get?
Just went with new OEM's
I'm trying to replicate but the red inline doesn't seem to be available from Summit any longer. Should I stick witht hat and order elsewhere or is there another you would recommend from Summit?
You might need to order direct from Forced Performance: forcedperformance.shop/
@@WannabeTuners many thanks
@@JennieLowery Yep anytime
So I get the same type of blueish tint clouds at first it was big when I rolled starting and now I added diamond pcv catch can and breather valve it reduced it a lot to a small cloud maybe like a foot compared to a big puff. Now I did the deceleration test it didn’t do anything but if I got WOT it does the same thing as yours. WhT can It be ?
What turbo and exhaust setup are you running? In my experience oil can sneak past the turbine seal with very free flowing exhaust setups, when backpressure in the downpipe is at its lowest ie. during deceleration, and in between shifts at WOT/high rpm. This TS OPR helps significantly, but I still notice some blueish smoke on occasion. It has definitely helped to the point where I'm not plooming and don't have to worry about oil loss, but if I let the engine idle for too long and then start driving, I will see smoke that quickly burns off. However, with spirited driving and during deceleration, there is no smoke at all!
@@WannabeTuners im running cst 4 turbo and ful straight pipe from the turbo back. So judging by what your saying there is no way to truly get rid of it just control it?
Just baught this with the gauge and it reads 60psi when I start it and when the oil warms up it goes down to 40 but as I rev it's back up to 60psi so how is it regulating 40psi ????????
Try slowly increasing the revs and holding them there. I remember reading somewhere that the regulator takes a moment to react. The oil pressure will drop as the oil warms up as it's viscosity will decrease.
Hey Eric I have a GEN one speed and I see that those oil relief caps are only for second gens, is there any alternative other than changing the valve cover
Hey man unfortunately there aren't any oil breather caps available for gen 1 valve covers that don't spray oil that I am aware of. The gen 2 valve covers have a baffle plate which the gen 1's do not. That baffle plate prevents oil from spraying out with the engine running. Hope that helps!
@@WannabeTuners Good information I will swap covers
Thank you for the response!
@@mattius4kt405 You're welcome!
Late night racing do a baffle kit for the gen 1 covers
I NEED YOUR HELP.... just got a speed6 and need to pick some brains on some stuff with this thing...im also in canada
Sure man, what's happening?
So you have to run an additional oil return off the OPR back to the oil pan? I must have missed a video where you guys modified the pan.
Love your guys' videos, keep 'em coming!! Building my gen 1 right along with you guys! lol
Good stuff man! Yeah the return needs to be ran back to the oil pan. We tapped into the oil pan in our forged engine build video :)
Silly question: would you run the same oil feed set up with a journal bearing turbo?
@@greatwhitenorth3717 Yep the BNR S5 turbo currently in the car is a journal bearing turbo. These regulators work with both journal and ball bearing turbos, and reduce pressure rather than flow
Thanks! I am running in BNRS3 so this is going in!
My speed 3 is stock but my intake and accessport. I'm have white smoke with blue tint out the back. I think it's oil burning I my turbo.
Yep if your engine has good compression readings, there's a good chance it's from oil getting past the turbine seal and burning up in the exhaust. However to be sure, I always recommend that people try the deceleration test in this video to see if the smoke is directly correlated to oil pressure ;)
I have a question about the breather cap does it vent a lil when you just sitting at idle in normal temperature ?
It usually stays closed at idle, but if there's enough pressure in the crankcase, it can open and vent that pressure
Got you i just got one yesterday and today was my first drive with it and i was looking at it while my car was at idle n it was venting so i was wondering if that was normal or not
@@jsloms6937 Sometimes it will rattle around because these engine's tend to generate pressure even at idle
Got you thats whats is sounds like thanks dude love your channel cant wait to see the speed3 ripping again.
@@jsloms6937 Thanks brother anytime :)
Would a turbo sump solve this issue as well? If the oil had designated sump pan from the turbo, would to much oil still be an issue?
Are u referring to a separate pan that the oil can drain into from the turbo and then get recirculated back into the engine?
@@WannabeTuners yes sir
@@kiddgrower9860 They have a version 2 out now and it doesnt need a return line ran. Built in filter and everything.
Anyway I can contact you directly vs commenting? If so, I wanted to see if you could help me with my situation
Sure u can message us on Instagram through direct messaging
Wish I still had my speed ☹️
is this a tech fix for the MAZDA MPS 6 too?
Yep this will work for a Mazdaspeed 6 as well!
Can you adjust the pressure. And how can you tell if you are starving the tubo?
No the pressure is already set from the get go, and it won't starve the turbo as it still maintains a healthy 40 psi of oil pressure :) One thing to note is that you don't need to run any restrictor bolts with this setup
@@WannabeTuners sweet thank you
Did you find yours smoked more during a day drive when it's hot compared to a colder night drive?
No I didn't notice that. I did however notice more smoke and oil consumption on the dipstick WITH a restrictor bolt. My theory is that a restrictor bolt raises pressure at it's ejection point, just like how putting your thumb over the end of a water hose does. I was able to get it to smoke on command. Pressure always goes from high to low, and oil pressure increases as rpm increases. So during deceleration, if the rpm was high enough (3k or higher), oil would push past the turbine seal and burn up in the exhaust causing smoke. This is because during deceleration there's virtually no back pressure in the downpipe, which allowed oil to take the path of least resistance. When at part throttle just cruising at 3k rpm or higher, oil wouldn't get into the exhaust because the back pressure in the downpipe would keep the oil in the turbos cartridge. When pulling hard to redline, oil would get past the seal only when lifting off the throttle to shift, due to a sudden drop in back pressure, then burn and smoke out the tail pipe :)
@@WannabeTuners thanks for the reply. I just ordered a turbosmart opr and fingers crossed that solves my issue
@@allthingsmusicandautomotiv8274 What turbo do u currently have?
@@WannabeTuners a stock ko4 at the moment. Turbo seems fine but periodically smokes and couldn't figure out the issue
@@allthingsmusicandautomotiv8274 I would do a compression test just to be sure the engine isn't contributing to the issue because of excess crankcase pressure from too much blow by
Where does the line on the bottom lead to
The line on the bottom drains oil back to the oil pan. The line on the left is from the block. The line on the right goes out to feed the turbo.
My car smokes like crazy (blue smoke) at cold start and when i drive it around for the first 15min. Only happens when i didnt drive it for a while and at -20° or below, i am at stock turbo and catless. You think the banjo bolt would help?
I haven't had much luck with restrictor bolts at all. First thing I'd do is a compression test to make sure the engine isn't the problem. Another thing is that if it's smoking only with the engine cold, it could be that your valve seals are leaking oil on top of the valves. Other than that, the K04's are notorious for leaking oil past the turbine seal, but I am sure a large reason for this is because of too much oil pressure being fed to the turbo causing oil to eventually push past the seal and burn up in the downpipe. I personally think that the Turbosmart OPR would solve a large majority of the smoking turbo issues that people are experiencing. It's just a lot of work to incorporate one lol
With factory turbo it's your turbo oil seals. If you used 5w30 (factory spec) oil for too long and did not take into consideration the 2009-2010 TSB about the 40 hot weight oil then this simply happens after some time. It's just a perfect excuse to go larger though :)
@@WannabeTuners yeah but wont it also smoke at normal temps if its the valve seals? It only happens at -20 or below and when i havent drove the car in a while.My guess is that its super cold and like you said the oil pressure is too much causing more oil past the turbo, being catless doesnt even help. But hey il check it out on spring, as you know canadian winter suckkss lol.
@@mituc im using rotells t6 40W thoo
@@commentmancommentman1658 I've read that leaking valve seals are more common after a cold start. You could try a restrictor bolt first as it's the cheapest option. If that doesn't work, you could try a custom oil feed line that incorporates a Turbosmart OPR, or you could upgrade the turbo first and see if that fixes the issue.
Why do you guys still have the TMIC mount on the back of the engine if you're FMIC?
Man, when things get a bit simpler you still have to have something to poke your eye against or to rip your finger nails off. On the back and below the engine things are pretty tight so the potential skin ripping/cutting things there are present in a decent amount, but up top a few things had to be left behind to do this job. When things are too clean and simple the "race car life" is simply not complete nor fulfilled.
Good observation! It's purpose at this point is to hold the AC line and electrical harness place. It's definitely been in there for far too long and has to go haha
@@mituc That's a good point, I mean realistically I could modify that bracket to look nicer, yet still hold the AC and electrical lines in place lol
@@WannabeTuners it's very easy to modify that bracket to get rid of the TMIC mounting point eyesore. You really just have to enlarge one hole. Also, adaptedperformance.com sells a custom A/C line bracket for our cars that does the same thing. Great video, guys!
@@keonigaillard7804 Awesome thanks for the link :)
Hi. Having almost same exact issue as you. New built motor. Compression and leak down all turned out good. I’m running cst4. Will this be okay with journal bearing? It says on website that opr t40 is for ball bearing?
Yep the Turbosmart T40 oil pressure regulator works with both journal and ball bearing turbos :)
@@WannabeTuners good to know 🙃 thanks man. So just remove the old feed line and install this yeah? No need for tune or drop engine oil?
@@WannabeTuners also, at around 14:35 you were showing the oil return line. I thought the OPR is supposed to connect to oil feed line?
@@michaeldelrosario7205 It lowers oil pressure to the turbo by bleeding oil off, so a return has to be ran and tapped back to the oil pan.
@@michaeldelrosario7205 No problem man! It won't drop oil pressure to the engine bearings, just oil pressure to the turbo.
question can I run this oil regulator on a stock turbo
Yeah absolutely
where do i get the speed performance breather cap, i cannot find it
It's possible that they stopped selling them. I haven't checked their website in a while. They can also be found here: www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Baffled-Billet-Valve-Cover-Breather-Kit-for-2010-13-MazdaSpeed3-p6532.htm
@@WannabeTuners I've been looking for the sp63 breather cap for a while now. Thank you for this! Much love from NJ.
If your a genwon speed you d need a gen 2 valve cover to fit with the breather cap
@@raquielcross5757 Yep exactly
@@raquielcross5757 gen 2 brother! Thanks though.
Did it permanently solve your issue?
It definitely improved significantly but once and a while particularly if I idle for too long as it's warming up, sometimes I'll see smoke, but it quickly burns off. Once the engine is fully warmed up, there is virtually zero smoke.
@@WannabeTuners how about oil consumption any present after installation?
@@briston64 Prior to running the regulator, the smoke was terrible and the oil consumption was quite high. I could literally make it happen on command under the right circumstances. The more the turbo smoked, the higher the oil consumption would be. Since running the forged engine with this regulator, oil consumption is virtually non existent, but I also did a BSD which allows me to run more engine oil, so any potential oil consumption isn't noticeable.
I remember having to top off the oil after a few hard drive cycles because of how much oil was getting past the turbo and burning up into the exhaust lol.
@@WannabeTuners appreciate the feedback I got v2 I’ll see how this goes fingers crossed
@@briston64 Sounds good, let me know how that one does. Another thing is crankcase pressure relief. Allowing that crankcase to breathe as much as possible helps a lot with oil drainage out of the turbo ;)
Please answer, can you tell me how I can hook this up to my KO4 turbo set up on my gen 1
Like where does the inlet connect to and the outlet goes to the turbo but where on the turbo is there a bolt you can take out and connect the OPR
Or a better solution just give us a video on how you installed it :(
You'll have to do some of your own research, but I know that there are several tools that can be purchased to make this process easier. We managed to fit the braided hose ends into the AN fittings using just a small vice, a small flat head screw driver, and some zip ties, however it wasn't easy. That process can be briefly seen in our 'built engine assembly' video. I've put a parts list in the description of this video of exactly what parts we used, and where they were purchased. The only hard part is assembling the braided hose into the AN fittings, and getting everything routed and tightened into the correct position. It's definitely a meticulous process and requires patience. It just goes from the block, to the OPR, to the FP red inline filter, then to the turbocharger. Hope that helps!
@@WannabeTuners where do you connect the line on the block? And where do you connect the line on the turbo is it all custom drilling?
@@emadawan5292 The oil exits the block from right underneath the alternator. You use an AN adapter fitting that threads into the block which replaces the stock banjo bolt and allows you to connect the AN fittings and braided hose. On the turbo side, you use a -4 banjo fitting and use the stock banjo bolt with it. There's a full parts list of everything that is needed in the description.
Can u send me one of those pressure regulator im already 1100 in so i cant buy it rn and i dont wanna keep running the car like that
They can be purchased from Summit Racing off their website : www.summitracing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0801-1002
Valves seal were checked?
It’s a brand new engine with a freshly done head. They said this in their engine build video. All valvetrain components are brand new
They had this problem with the old motor and with the new one. To be honest I would have gone CST4/5 or GTX307x a long time ago, probably after acknowledging that the banjo bolt did nothing. There's a good reason though why I have GTX turbos on my both 2.3DISI-fTw cars....
Yeah we thought about the possibility of leaking valve seals, but it would only smoke under specific conditions, all of which pointed to the turbo
@@mituc so with the GTX you don't have to worry about a smoking turbo?
@@rabbon-ithegenesis7169 Absolutely no worry at all. Actually only the BNRs are a bit more sensitive, any other turbos for this platform: Garret, Mamba, CorkSport, Precision, and so on they will simply be ok with the oil restrictor they come with.
Of course the sensitiveness these BNRs have is curable but to me it looks to be too much of a hassle to go through.
13:11 is that a crack? 😬
thats gotta be a crack in the ceramic coating lol no way the pipe cracked like that
Man this 4K camera on my phone is exposing things that shouldn't be exposed lmao... No it's a scratch, but thank goodness for the lifetime warranty on the Full Race Manifold!
@@WannabeTuners that's good! Scared me for a bit 😅
Hey can you give me Brian’s from BNr info number ect if you can bro? Love your videos 🔥
Hey thanks man the phone number to Brian at BNR is on his website : bnrsupercars.com/
Wannabe Tuners, I have an issue everytime I make a hard shift in my speed 3 smoke a lot., only when I make hard shift.
It could very well be oil getting past the turbine seal and burning up in the exhaust, but it's always a good idea to start with a compression test to make sure that the engine isn't part of the problem
@@WannabeTuners I did compression test like 5 months ago and it was all good,.the minimum was 135 psi
@@gtavlovers3354 135 psi is pretty low. What were the other cylinders reading and what is your altitude? One thing to note is that the engine should be hot, and the compression test should be done quickly so the engine doesn't cool down. You'll get low readings on a cold engine.
@@WannabeTuners so to do engine compression must be hot?
@@WannabeTuners it was a range of 135 to 145.
You do realize this will damage your engine. Their design reduces your main oil pressure as it's an extra bleed from your system. Have fun replacing our main bearings or throwing a rod...
I've had zero issues. My oil pressure transducer is installed into a sandwich plate adapter in between the oil filter and housing. The oil pressure is reading exactly the same as it did before installing the regulator. If there was a drop in oil pressure, I would be able to measure it right away.
I have rebuilt thousands of those engines nothing but peices of shit they are lol
BULLSHIT Add on.
REAL problem is that the Turbo's Oil drain hole /tube is Woefully undersised.
Pressure is ONLY a problem when the oil can't exit fast enough and then backs up forces out a turbo's Teeny Tiny seals..
Way too much blah blah, come on!!