MERCEDES M113 V8 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2024
- How to replace Mercedes M113 V8 engine valve cover gaskets and/or breathers, also shows ignition coil pack removal for M113 V8 engines. You'll see how to remove the MAF sensor (mass airflow sensor) to clean it for much better engine performance and fuel economy. Years 1999 - 2006. Enjoy this highly detailed, step by step video!
USED IN THIS VIDEO:
M113 (C43)Valve Cover Gasket Set: amzn.to/33bLdbj
Tekton torque wrench: amzn.to/2YrfHYe
CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner: amzn.to/2KhA4OY
E-Torx socket set: amzn.to/2GKBhfi
Torx set: amzn.to/2YJCZHY
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Wow, this channel is just perfect for broadening understanding of mechanical and electrical principles and learning how they are being used in commercial products. A lot of useful info for all the tinkerers even though one would never even encounter the represented device.
Glad you enjoy my videos! Be sure to share. Thanks
Excellent documentary. Concise and to the point. The only issue I had having done this before on other cars is that generally after so many years you remove the bolts of that cover and that sucker is almost welded on there.
They don’t just “pull right off“. The last one I had to use a plastic mileet and hit it with a little force just to jar it loose.
But otherwise great video. I wish all UA-cam “how to “videos were this nice
Great job and thank you very much for another very helpful video! Looking forward to your next video!
Thank you! Getting ready to watch your latest testing video now. :-)
Thanks for showing the reason for the leak. It illustrates the care needed when putting it back together.
You're welcome! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists and most importantly share my channel with others. Thanks
About to have to do this on my R129. Thanks for the tips!
This video is very informative and detailed. Thanks for making it for us!
You're welcome Flynt! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share the video. Thank you
Good job
One should always reseal the crankcase ventilation covers when doing the gaskets. Also make sure the small holes where the rubber hoses connect to the vent covers is free and not plugged. Cleanliness is critical when resealing the vent covers or the sealer will not adhere and will leak.
They were done recently, as mentioned in the video.
@@electronicsNmore Sorry I missed that. Love your videos!
Best video ive seen on this!! Thank you!!!... one question....the top of covers dont come off or have to i mean??? The smaller cover on top of the head cover.
The breather cover is bolted to the valve cover. If you never replaced the seal, you'll need to remove the covers, clean off the old RTV, then apply new. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful Ben!
Well done my man😂😂😂😂
Thanks!
Nicely done Bud.
Thank you!
Great job and video.
Thank you. Be sure to share, because videos like this aren't worth all the time I put into them for only a couple thousand views. This is another money losing video for me.
What about the breather covers? Might as well redo them when the valve cover is off.
The previous owner took very good care of the car as you can see. He said it was done recently, and there was no evidence of oil leaks from the breather covers.
what is the torque on the little breather covers? Great video!
Hi jeff, not sure about those, but definitely not higher than the bolts for the valve covers. I usually tighten those down by hand. Thanks for watching!
The small bolts are 3 Nm.
👍
Thanks for watching!
Great video!!
Did you use the same old bolts?
I think one should use brand new ones...
Yes, same bolts. Just don't over-torque them, they can snap.
If I plan on doing the plugs as well, would you recommend doing them while the valve cover is off for easier access? For the hose you pulled off on top does it just pop back on?
Once the plastic covers(cladding) has been removed, you can easily replace the plugs. Thanks for watching!
Whoa - that's a chunky looking engine.
It's beefy for sure. :-)
What's the torq spec of the bolts from the valve cover?
It's been a while, I think 6-7 ft lbs.
Wish I could do this on my 1992 500SL
Different engine? Or just questioning your ability? Thanks for watching!
electronicsNmore
Different engine.
Great video, I dislike German products and because of my mom's car I start working on them now and that's what I needed really.
Glad you liked the video!
Is that Loctite 5900 you are using? Can it be used on the metal to metal areas around the lower bolts? I still have leak in same place after replacing gasket (original MB). Back bolt passenger side. Slight scratching in that area.
Not sure, it was included with the kit from Mercedes Benz. What metal to metal area?
@@electronicsNmore The RTV included in the kit I got was that Loctite 5900. From what I can tell, they do not recommend using it on rubber to metal but only metal to metal. Was thinking about a thin application along the outer metal (outside of gasket) along the entire bottom of the gasket area. I have some slight scratches (engine side) and thought that might be causing the leaking issue.
@@jamescooper5705 I've used it on gaskets before and drove the vehicle for years with no problems, but what you say is correct, it's more for metal to metal. If the scratches are deep enough to grab your nail, then apply a very thin film over the area and smooth it out. Once the gasket is torqued down, the sealant will taper out and seal.
@@electronicsNmore Thanks. Just put it all back together again with a slight bit of sealant. I'll give it overnight before I start up and see if that fixed it or not. Thanks.,
All good now. Used a little of that stuff under gasket (along channel) and just a touch on metal to metal flange. Did a short test ride. Seems to have done the trick. Thanks for posting the video.
Gaskets are installed dry and your detorquing/torquing logic is incorrect
Incorrect. A very thin film of oil is completely harmless, and ensures that the gasket goes into perfect position. I've been doing it for 30+ years on many different cars, and never a problem. You don't apply oil to the dry rubber gasket of an oil filter before installing it? As for the tightening sequence, it was close enough to what manuals show. As of this date, no leaks and everything running perfectly.
The problem is not that it will not work. A lot of people have done things for a long time that doesn't make it right and people like you sound like this tiler the other day driving screws through backernboards in showers claiming he's "never had a callback." All I could think was how many homeowners have slowly rotting framing in their homes because this guy has been "doing it for 30 years". Not only are you putting film in between a polymer and a flat sealing surface which just seems like a common sense thing not to do - You're also contradicting the manufacturers directions, but sure keep spreading misinformation "because you've smeared grease and oil all over everything for 30 years because it lubes it up real good for install. Also comparing things like oil filter seals and straight fit gaskets is gross misrepresentation which shows how much you truly understand about how and why things like this are or are not done. Torque things the way they were engineered to be torqued and de-torque in reverse to spec not to tight enough.
@@20somthingrealestate May I kindly suggest that you should maybe rather indicate how you feel things should be done, instead of telling people they don't do right ?
@@mytrashaccount3630 I just did. And talk about reviving the dead. Follow MFG guidelines and torque in specified or standard pattern. Unless you "engineered" the parts yourself and do things good enough like the guy in the video.
@@20somthingrealestate i'm sorry if you got me wrong. i didn't think i was gonna be murdered for not understanding perfectly a language which is not mine :(
i might reconsider posting comments, then. seems that im too much candid.
P this engine is like w220 mercedes s500🤣🤣🤣