This was a very informational video. Thank you for taking the time to put together and share. For the equipment with smaller wheels, you can always have mesh welded across the top of the ramps to create a smoother service and eliminating the gaps between the channels.
I'm glad you liked the video. Yes, some expanded metal would make it easier to drive equipment with smaller wheels on the trailer. I really like this trailer. It has been a good trailer. I get compliments about how nice it is when I deliver wood. I looked at several brands of trailers before deciding to get this. I live in Brimar country, about an hour from the Brimar factory. The prices on the Brimars are really good here, but they are not the trailer a Suretrac is. Some day I may get a single axle dump for delivering a smaller quantity of wood. Feel free to share this video!
@@TractorTech - There are a lot of manufacturers to choose from, and good ones too. We are thankful that you chose Sure-Trac. Will continue to tune in to see what you do next. Thank you.
I have a Big Tex 14LP 16 foot long. This dump trailer was designed to haul tractors and other equipment. The LP stands for low profile. It also has stability Jack's on the back to help stabilize when you load. I have a Massey Ferguson GC 1720. I put my King Kutter box blade in my front bucket and tie it down to the bucket. I then attach my 60 inch mid mount mower deck and backhoe and load it in the trailer. Loader and backhoe are flat on the trailer floor. Enjoyed the video. I tow everything with a 2018 Ram 3500 with a 6.4 Hemi and 4.10 gears.
Tractor tech, I was wondering if you heat with would as your primary heat source? And yes my truck tows like a dream and my wallet likes the money I saved by not spending the extra 10K on the diesel. Lol
I raise up the dump bed to reduce the angle on the ramps and the blades will not scrape. Once I clear the back end I start to lower the bed as I continue to pull forward. It helps if you have a remote for the hydraulics on this. I have a gooseneck dump trailer and rest the bucket on the top and strap it down.
Raise the bed on the dump trailer to make the ramp angle better. Also a loaded cannot “flop” around no matter if u get in an accident. If you are in an accident that bad you have more imprtant things to worry about than a loader flopping.
I have a 7’x14’ 14K Load Trail dump. I haul my Kubota B2601 front end loader and backhoe in it just fine. Loader bucket flat on the floor backhoe bucket rotated to one side all tucked in very nice.
there is nothing wrong with the loader on but don't leave it in the Air. All you need to do is roll your bucket down and set it down on a block of wood between your battery box and jack stand the police will not have a issue with this. Another option would be to load the tractor backwards This T how usually haul them 2 reasons for this 1 loaded tires are heavy which puts more weight on the truck where you want it 2 tractor doors and hoods have a tendency to blow open at highway speeds winds which will bend them around and blow out the windshield and back window in the process. by loading it this way you can drop the bucket behind the tail gate which is perfectly leangle as long as you are not more than 4' past the back of the trailer.
The battery box does not need to support all the weight of the loader the hydraulics and the tractor will do that just as much as if you were to leave it up in the air. All you need to do is touch it down you don't need to lift the front end of the tractor up in the air and put the full weight on the box. (use a rubber mat or block of wood to protect the paint).A second option If your loader has the reach to make it past the box then just roll the bucket so the knife edge is down and set the bucket edge on the tongue itself between the tool box and the jack stand.Again just kiss it you don't need to bear down on it. As a alternative (which is the better way to load tractors) is by reversing it on to the trailer (this is how I always run them for 2 reasons) ~First Going down the road the doors and hoods like to fly open as they are designed for max 25 mph and don't have safety catches like a truck door or hood. when they do this they are destroyed and if a door blows open 99.9% of the time you will blow out a side or back window as well ~Second if you have a loader you will most likely have calcium in the tires for weight at approximately 1200lbs per tire this will make the back of the tractor heavier than the front. To prevent sway of the trailer this weight needs to be on the tongue. ~In doing it this way you can lower the bucket down behind the trailer so you would have the front of the tractor facing the tailgate then close the tailgate and lower the loader so the arms extend over and past the tailgate. If you are less than 4 feet you are 100% legal if you are 4-6 feet past (which with your rig you wont be) you need red flags or lights and no the bucket does not need to be chained down or resting on a flat surface as it is connected very well to the tractor and requires no extra points of tie down. However if you are still nervous about this arrangement you can always place the bucket in the box of your truck and just over hang your loader arms.
@@GeorgeVeld Necessity is the mother of invention. A lot of imagination and experience will take you places thought not possible. The tarp roll needs to be moved down under the front to protect it. How about a short steep ramp up front to drive the front wheels up on a home made saddles then you can bottom out the lift cylinders and chain the bucket down to the tongue? More? weld two 2"x4" pipes to the tongue then set in your homemade stanchion 3,4,5.6ft high to set the bucket on. Don't want to weld? Ubolt them on. Turn the tractor around take those loader supports off and put them in the shed where they belong and pin longer pipe supports to reach the floor OR,OR, make a ladder type rack that pins to the front OR back to set the front loader on. A cutting torch, welder, and some scrap iron is all you need. Or if you have too much money just go buy new stuff to suit your needs.
I have a B3350 and a 16' Lamar dump trailer. In it i can fit shorter implements such as my tiller, box blade, or scraper blade, with the loader down in the trailer. The largest thing ive been able to fit in there so far was my Land Plane, and that was with the bucket off the quick disconnect and the loader sitting on top of the bucket, all still in the trailer, but there was less than 1 inch total front and rear combined. When i take my tractor somewhere i always take a heavy chain and lock to lock the tractor to something while i am not there. All that being said, i also have a 22' tilt trailer, and i much prefer splitting jobs up to where i dump the material needed with the dump trailer then bring the tractor and any implements i need to the site in one trip.
@@TractorTechNice video Roger. Also have a 16' Load Trail dump trailer, it's a nice size trailer. I can fit my tractor with a front loader and logging winch with a foot to spare. I also am able to deliver 5 face cords with 2 foot sides without a problem.
@@seather863 That is nice you can fit your tractor with FEL and winch in your trailer. 5 facecord is a lot of wood. I haul 1.3 cords on this trailer. I stack my loads. I could add a 1' board to the sides and I would be just shy of 2 cords, but I doubt anyone would buy that much at once here.
You could haul the tractor and load dirt or gravel etc. go dump it and return to get the tractor. I think hauling with the front end loader over the front is ok but would want to lower it to resting position and you need 4 corners chained appropriately. Don't quote me on that. There are very few implements you could haul on even an 18 foot dump trailer without hanging out the back mainly box blade or 3 point planter or tiller and such.
The loader could be supported wit some costume made bars that could be bolted (probably quicker than chaining) with a battery powerd impacted driver once set up for it. This setup would serv well in place of chaining the loader which is required by law anyway.
Good video, I recently bought a 16' 14K Gooseneck PJ dump trailer. The tow vehicle is a D3500 Ram. I have loaded my skid loader in it and pulled it around some and it works just fine. I want to try to load my tractor (NH TN70D with a FEL) on the dump trailer. Hopefully I will be able to load it with the box blade attached. I think it will go all right. I will put the loader bucket up on the gooseneck and chain it down. I have pulled this tractor quite a bit on my 22' GN utility trailer in this same manner. I usually have a shredder on the back of the tractor that hangs off the back of the trailer by about 3'. I've never had the cops look at me twice. I throw one chain over the bucket, 4 chains on the tractor and and one chain over the shredder. I am interested if any others haul tractors with FELs in this manner and if they have had any problems with it.
@@TractorTech that trough they sit in would be sufficient well beyond the maximum tilt angle of the trailer. I had to laugh when you said it would be great if you could find a cheat to lessen the ramp angle!
I have a 12’ long max d dump trailer and my John Deere 3032E tractor with loader attachment fits all the way inside the walls. I always back it on the trailer when I haul it also, weight distribution looks a little better that way.
Hi Rodger!!😀😀 All you need to do with your big tractor is back it on. Then close the tailgate and slide your ramps in about 2/3s of the way in so you can set your loader bucket on them. Just a thought. That's the way I would do it. Also if you raise your trailer bed up a little it makes your ramps a lot less steep for driving on and off. Take care my friend!!😀😀 Logger Al
Hi Logger Al, I think the loader would pinch the doors on the trailer. They would have to be removed. I thought about raising the trailer, to load the BX but I am not sure if that is a good idea, and I am not sure if it is a bad idea. With a little tractor like that it probably would not hurt anything. I decided to play it safe for the video and leave it down. Thanks for watching and commenting! Have a good week and stay safe!
DOT rules state the attachments of the tractor must be individually chained to the trailer; outside the dump bed would not meet that requirement. If you live in an area where the police are up to date on the DOT rules and vigorously enforce them, they will get you for that violation. Some states are very strict, other states are not.
I haul a 770 David brown tractors with a 3point post hole diger on a 6.5 ×12. I have to load the tractor backwards to close the tailgate. The trailer is a single axle landscape trailer.
L 4240 fits fine. You build a solid rest on the hitch. (Assuming trailer axle weight rating, hitch rating are ok.) It must be secured against trailer. Not trailer floor. (Unless it’s changed). It must be below hood height. (According to a MN DOT but he couldn’t find reason) For smaller mower with back blade, weights. Back in, unhook blade, drive in. At base of ramp a 2’ 2”x6” likely enough. BTDT
I think with the loader hanging over that much I would have too much tongue weight. Yes, I could lay boards on the ramps to get the BX in. I was more less doing it to make a point. Some implements are really long like a snowblower. So it would be hard to get in with something like that.
@@TractorTech It’s possible. Weights, overhang matter. Are the rear doors removable? If loader braced, chained (assuming fluid filled rear tires) you could have the bucket overhang up to IIRC a max of 4’ with flags during daylight. But you need to know balance points, as well as axle ratings, your experience, licensing... I used a 12’ dump for yrs before I got a 18’ implement trailer. Listed as 20’ 6k axles. (Miss those 2’) I have cheap magnet 4 plug lights for stuff not having lights. So I added in bucket. I was told I should have covered trailer tail lights as possibly confusing to drivers. 2 sets of turn, brake on rear.
Suggestion: I use combination stainless pin locks for all of several different hitches and combination brass gate locks etc Makes no keys necessary and you can change combinations . I use the combo gate locks attached to another lock to let other people in with a temporary combination . Thisworks kinda like a remote internet lock without the service!
Thanks, for the suggesiton. I was in at lowes, and they had the locking hitch pins on clearance. I want to think they were reduced down to $2 or $3. I got everyone they had even though my trailers at the time all had locking pins.. I still may have 2 or 3.
@@TractorTech this is a link to one similar to ones I use but this one isn't stain less. www.autoanything.com/towing/77A5234A6361268.aspx?kc=GOOGADW&DZID=PLA_g_1776971199_66506509582_5234-6361268_c&gclid=CjwKCAjwsan5BRAOEiwALzomX2iO9zi-bS1-Byi8jSuvzm4q5UNmqyAm3dmgjKXXOGaY-yGNDLVm7xoCjCkQAvD_BwE
you dont need the rounds to go in the bucket to move them , Put bucket down like dumped out of lower edge to just above ground and drive forward. No you can't stack it this way but you can push it.
If you had a pickup truck you could detach your loader on the pickup bed and carry them separately. Or buy a gooseneck dump trailer and hang you loader over the top.
I have found that an 83x14 dump trailer is just about perfect for me. I have had tractors as small as a JD 1 Series in it all the way to a JD 4120 which is about equal to your L42. I may not have any room for a 3pt attachment but I have been able to fit them all with loaders in the trailer close the rear gate and have the bucket touching the bottom of the trailer.
i haul my bx in my trailer quite often ...i was not aware that the bucket had to be secured ...good info for me ...i will look for ways to secure my bucket by welding on a rack ...hopefully that will make it legal
Check your local laws to be sure. Can you drop the bucket off and put in the front of the trailer backwards, then put the loader on it? Some people are also concerned about the shock load on the hydraulic system with the loader being in the air. Empty IDK if it is much concern, but if you had a bucket full of top soil and went down the road and hit some bumps you may damage something in the hydraulic system.
Technically you need 6 tie down points. 1 at each corner, one for front bucket and one fit backhoe boom unless you have pins to lock it secure. Not sure if that's federal or not..I think it is tho. But need to be done here in Washington
Thanks, they trailer is really well built. I looked at several brands and this was at the top. Sure tracs are usually expensive, but I found a dealer with great prices.
On the bigger tractor you could load it in backwards and let the bucket hang down over the tailgate. That way you don't have to worry about hitting your truck. HOWEVER be careful not to cover your taillights and also make sure that you are within the over length requirements for your state. (Shouldn't be a problem with that size bucket).
Thank you for the demonstration and measurements. I am analyzing my needs, mini ex/mini skid/skid/tractor, and what trailer(s) to accomplish the work at hand. This helped narrow down that a mini excavator is looking better and better. Now...rent/lease/buy?
Your welcome! Thanks for watching! I'm not sure what kind of work you have to do, but you can rent a large machine for a week or month and get your project knocked out. The if you need a machine to maintain it, you may be able to get by with something smaller. For example use a large mini to get your work done, then get a compact tractor to maintain it.
OMG, Implements can hang off the back, leave the gates chained open and roll. My mini ex is twice of that Kubota, haul it daily. What is it about that orange paint, lead chips?
Good job Roger. That is a lot of work. And a good looking tailer. I always wondered if my Ford 2000 would fit in my 10' dump but never got around to trying it. lol. Joe
If you configured the same dump trailer in gooseneck instead of bumper pull could you haul the compact tractor and legally rest the loader down on the neck if it had a solid plate or wood platform on top?
What I do is use my bucket like a crane to put my box blade and grader blade into the back of the pickup. Then load the tractor, rest the bucket on the front of the trailer and tie it down and away I go!
Speaking of the sub compact it seems like for the front end loader you could weld up a ledge for it to rest on and be chained to. Then you could use a chain with the loader to put an implement in the bed of the truck. If you absolutely had to use a 12 foot dump anyways. Some sort of tight jobsite specialist.
I put a similar dent in the tailgate of my Tacoma while delivering my friend's BX on a 12' flat bed. The loader sat down nicely until I made a 90 degree turn into a diesel pump.
I was hoping no one would notice it lol. A tractor and trailer ran in to the back of the truck. The left bed side is messed up also. I bought it that way almost 2 years ago. I have another bed for it. I need to do somethings to it first and then put the bed on it so I can get it painted. I've had people laugh at it, but I don't care. I got a good deal on it.
Where is is stated that a bucket must be supported. Case 580s have the bucket suspended when parked. My BX23 has the backhoe bucket suspended when parked. Manlifts have the basket suspended when parked while the upper boom is locked. There are limits on over hanging loads and when they have to flagged, but I have never seen support requirements other than tied down every 10 feet and minimum tie downs.
@@TractorTech that section of the DOT regulations is not applicable to your machines. First, I doubt your tractors weigh in excess of 10,000 Lbs. So you are deferred to standard tie-down regs. Second, the part you are misinterpreting is where it says it must restrain the boom to prevent it from "articulating". That applies to things like backhoes, excavators, and log loaders. "Articulating" means swinging laterally out of the confines of the trailer it is being hauled on. Your loader does not articulate per this definition, so you do not have to chain it down. I had to laugh when you said that the loader would flop around if you tipped the trailer over. 😉
Preparing Equipment To Be Transported (Section 3.8.2) Requirements Lower and secure to the vehicle all accessory equipment (hydraulic shovels, booms, etc.). Restrain articulated vehicles to prevent articulation while in transit.
@@michaelschettl9509 Possibly the bureaucrats who probably never have sat in this equipment and write this stuff think they know more the the manufactures. Personnel lifts with hanging baskets have warnings not to tie down the basket or upper boom to the transport vehicle. My Kubota shows 4 tie down locations and neither the backhoe or loader bucket are shown as tie downs. Maybe the voters in this country should take more interest in who is elected.
Could you put the loader bucket in the truck bed (detached) and let the loader arms down on top of the front wall with some cushion material or is anything outside the confines of the trailer walls not legal? Or even back it in and let the loader bucket hang out with doors secured in open position?
I think I got it on etrailer. It is cloth so it doesn't lock. You can get a sort cable and a lock to secure the tire, then put a a cover over it. I got another spare tire cover on ebay.
A gooseneck dump trailer would allow you to set the loader/bucket on the top of the neck and chain/strap it down. Probably can get away with a 16 or maybe 14 foot dump and have a box blade with that compact tractor. Not my choice for towing, I prefer gooseneck deckover trailers for hauling equipment. (diamond C)
A 16' gooseneck with a box blade would probably work. I'd like to have a 30' deckover gooseneck, but I really don't need one. I have a 20' 10k car trailer and it meets my current needs.
I ordered a gooseneck 16k suretrac deckover dump once opon a time but the deal fell through because they quoted me incorrectly (7k vs 8k axles) That was supposed to me my "do it all" trailer. Then I upgraded to a 110TLB and all of that went out the window. the 84" harley rake is 96" overall width so deckover is really the only way to go. Looked at lowboy trailers as well just wouldn't work too well. Thanks for the reply and nice videos, lots of interest on this subject on YT.
This trailer doesn't have stabilizers. I wanted them on it but, it would have been a couple month wait to get it, as the dealer had just placed an order. I think the trailer doesn't move for a couple of reasons. First of all it is a 2 axle 12' trailer. Then secondly it is a well engineer trailer. The axles are placed properly, and the tongue is the right length. I have seen some dump trailers that have a long tongue like an RV tongue (which is longer) on an enclosed trailer. I have stabilzers on this trailer. ua-cam.com/video/lU24bx2jSnM/v-deo.html
@@TractorTech The fulcrum point on a dump trailer is the center of the back axle which is way closer to the back than on a regular flat or cargo trailer so the dump body doesn't hit the ground and if you forget to open the tail gate or the load hangs up it doesn't lift the back wheels of the truck and you go for a ride down a hill like my son did when he forgot to put the wood block under the back of my low 14,000lb flat trailer. If you take notice any dump trucks the tail gate is closer to the axle than a flat stake body or tanker or, or you get the idea.
I'm not sure if that would be a good idea. On a light machine like the BX it probably would not matter. On something heavier, it may not be good to do.
Good job on the video Roger when I first saw this video posted I thought you were going to demonstrate that you could haul a tractor in the dump trailer. After watching and all the demonstrations seems to not be a very good idea. Take care brother
In most cases a dump trailer is no the best way to haul a tractor. I have only hauled the BX one time in the dump trailer. I like things to be versatile and with the ramps, I can at least get the tractor in the trailer if I had to.
I got a good laugh when you "couldn't" get that mower in the dump trailer... The problem with the bigger end loader isn't the size, you could easily lower the bucket onto some dunnage across the front and secure it; no problem with it sticking out over the truck bed, no "cop bait"... Your problem with it would be those D Rings in the bed are no way near heavy enough for that tractor...
How about a polyurethane block between the loader rams so it will not bleed down. And strap the bucket to the loader arms some how. The law was written encase the attachment came loose not the loader its self
I've seen several videos with a BX23S loader and backhoe being towed by a 12x 83 dump trailer, there's even one using a 10' trailer. Your landscape tarp is keeping you from trying anything creative.
I mean honestly what youre doing is hauling a powerful lawn mower in a small dump trailer. You can haul an excavator in a dump trailer given the trailer is much larger than what is displayed here.
If you don't have a CDL any truck larger than a 3/4 ton pickup becomes a problem because the GVWR of say even a 1 ton f 350 for instance will be in the neighborhood of 13 to be 16 thousand lbs so if yo pull more than a 10,000 lbs trailer you run the risk of being over the 26,000 bls limit if your a none CDL driver so forced to use a truck under 3/4 ton. I have a Ford F 550 flatbed fully with a gross GVWR of 17500 lbs just for the truck by it self & I can't even pull a 10,000 lbs trailer. I'm limited to a 8,500 lbs GVWR trailer in order for to be under 26,000 lbs for a driver without a CDL. That really stinks because pulling a 10 or 12 thousand pound trailer with a F 550 would be safer than pulling same with a 3/4 ton pickup.
As long as it's not commercially used you don't have to stay under 10000lbs you should stay within gvwr of truck yes...I have a f350 ccsb with a 16,000 lb fifth wheel which puts me at about 26,000 combined, Loaded. At least here in Washington state. Fifth wheel towing for my truck is 16,000lbs and trailer towing 14k
Built a rest for the bucket. Come up from the tongue of the trailer to a height the bucket can rest on and be chained to. Wonder if that is legal? Hmmm.
Good day Sir 🌞 That bucket is working very good and your are in great shape Sir 👍😊 Great trailer 👍😊I have a question Sir, if your were putting the tractor on the other way and chain up the bucket to your rear trailer are you aload to do this ? Since the bucket will be secure on the back of your nice trailer ? Great looking Cat 👍 Great video full watch as always Sir and have a great week end Cheers 😊🌞👍
Thanks Dave. The bucket is a huge time saver. I wish I was in better shape, I am changing my program. Putting the bucket on the back of the trailer like that maybe splitting hairs. Some cops my let it go and other may not, IDK. The cat was a stray. He has been here a few months. His name is Conor McGregor. He is a fighter. If he sees another cat he is on it. He is a really nice cat other than that. When he hears my voice like when I am making a video he come running. Have a great week.
I had to laugh when you said that the loader would flop around if you tipped the trailer over. 😉 Your loader does not need to be tied down as long as you have properly tied the tractor itself down on 4 corners. You could make a pair of channels like most loaders have as safety props for when you have to work under them, that you could rest the loader against then strap it down to the tongue or the interior D-rings.
I doubt there would be a problem with lack of tong weight, the back of a tractor is usually heavier than the front especially if tires are filled with fluid.
This is why you tube shouldn’t be used for education. Machine should be backed up ramp So you can’t flip the machine on yourself. Educate yourself before putting out a video. Trailer 101 already failed
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This was a very informational video. Thank you for taking the time to put together and share.
For the equipment with smaller wheels, you can always have mesh welded across the top of the ramps to create a smoother service and eliminating the gaps between the channels.
I'm glad you liked the video. Yes, some expanded metal would make it easier to drive equipment with smaller wheels on the trailer. I really like this trailer. It has been a good trailer. I get compliments about how nice it is when I deliver wood. I looked at several brands of trailers before deciding to get this. I live in Brimar country, about an hour from the Brimar factory. The prices on the Brimars are really good here, but they are not the trailer a Suretrac is. Some day I may get a single axle dump for delivering a smaller quantity of wood. Feel free to share this video!
@@TractorTech - There are a lot of manufacturers to choose from, and good ones too. We are thankful that you chose Sure-Trac. Will continue to tune in to see what you do next. Thank you.
@@SureTracTrailersPage Thanks for the support.
@@TractorTech looks identicle to the new kubota k-haul dump trailers
@@SureTracTrailersPage kubota has the k-haul trailers dump trailers,utility trailers plus there less money
Thanks for posting this. I just purchased my first dump trailer and mini excavator. I have been watching a lot of videos like these.
I like your cat.
I have a Big Tex 14LP 16 foot long. This dump trailer was designed to haul tractors and other equipment. The LP stands for low profile. It also has stability Jack's on the back to help stabilize when you load. I have a Massey Ferguson GC 1720. I put my King Kutter box blade in my front bucket and tie it down to the bucket. I then attach my 60 inch mid mount mower deck and backhoe and load it in the trailer. Loader and backhoe are flat on the trailer floor. Enjoyed the video. I tow everything with a 2018 Ram 3500 with a 6.4 Hemi and 4.10 gears.
That is a nice trailer. I bet the truck pulls nice with the 6.4 and 4.10's.
Tractor tech, I was wondering if you heat with would as your primary heat source? And yes my truck tows like a dream and my wallet likes the money I saved by not spending the extra 10K on the diesel. Lol
Good morning Roger. Thanks for the demo. Very helpful information for me. Have a great week!
I thought of you when I was making this video. Have a great week.
I raise up the dump bed to reduce the angle on the ramps and the blades will not scrape. Once I clear the back end I start to lower the bed as I continue to pull forward. It helps if you have a remote for the hydraulics on this. I have a gooseneck dump trailer and rest the bucket on the top and strap it down.
Exactly my thoughts
A wireless remote would help. You have to watch, if it is raised too much the ramps could slide out.
Raise the bed on the dump trailer to make the ramp angle better. Also a loaded cannot “flop” around no matter if u get in an accident. If you are in an accident that bad you have more imprtant things to worry about than a loader flopping.
I have a 7’x14’ 14K Load Trail dump. I haul my Kubota B2601 front end loader and backhoe in it just fine. Loader bucket flat on the floor backhoe bucket rotated to one side all tucked in very nice.
The load trailer trailers are nice. I also like the B2601. It sounds like tractor fits in your trailer nicely.
there is nothing wrong with the loader on but don't leave it in the Air. All you need to do is roll your bucket down and set it down on a block of wood between your battery box and jack stand the police will not have a issue with this. Another option would be to load the tractor backwards This T how usually haul them 2 reasons for this 1 loaded tires are heavy which puts more weight on the truck where you want it 2 tractor doors and hoods have a tendency to blow open at highway speeds winds which will bend them around and blow out the windshield and back window in the process. by loading it this way you can drop the bucket behind the tail gate which is perfectly leangle as long as you are not more than 4' past the back of the trailer.
I'm not sure that the battery box would support the weight of the loader.
The battery box does not need to support all the weight of the loader the hydraulics and the tractor will do that just as much as if you were to leave it up in the air. All you need to do is touch it down you don't need to lift the front end of the tractor up in the air and put the full weight on the box. (use a rubber mat or block of wood to protect the paint).A second option If your loader has the reach to make it past the box then just roll the bucket so the knife edge is down and set the bucket edge on the tongue itself between the tool box and the jack stand.Again just kiss it you don't need to bear down on it. As a alternative (which is the better way to load tractors) is by reversing it on to the trailer (this is how I always run them for 2 reasons) ~First Going down the road the doors and hoods like to fly open as they are designed for max 25 mph and don't have safety catches like a truck door or hood. when they do this they are destroyed and if a door blows open 99.9% of the time you will blow out a side or back window as well ~Second if you have a loader you will most likely have calcium in the tires for weight at approximately 1200lbs per tire this will make the back of the tractor heavier than the front. To prevent sway of the trailer this weight needs to be on the tongue. ~In doing it this way you can lower the bucket down behind the trailer so you would have the front of the tractor facing the tailgate then close the tailgate and lower the loader so the arms extend over and past the tailgate. If you are less than 4 feet you are 100% legal if you are 4-6 feet past (which with your rig you wont be) you need red flags or lights and no the bucket does not need to be chained down or resting on a flat surface as it is connected very well to the tractor and requires no extra points of tie down. However if you are still nervous about this arrangement you can always place the bucket in the box of your truck and just over hang your loader arms.
@@GeorgeVeld Necessity is the mother of invention. A lot of imagination and experience will take you places thought not possible. The tarp roll needs to be moved down under the front to protect it. How about a short steep ramp up front to drive the front wheels up on a home made saddles then you can bottom out the lift cylinders and chain the bucket down to the tongue? More? weld two 2"x4" pipes to the tongue then set in your homemade stanchion 3,4,5.6ft high to set the bucket on. Don't want to weld? Ubolt them on.
Turn the tractor around take those loader supports off and put them in the shed where they belong and pin longer pipe supports to reach the floor OR,OR, make a ladder type rack that pins to the front OR back to set the front loader on. A cutting torch, welder, and some scrap iron is all you need. Or if you have too much money just go buy new stuff to suit your needs.
@@Sny734 you still have a problem with hoods and doors blowing open but your idea would work well in reverse as well
I have a B3350 and a 16' Lamar dump trailer. In it i can fit shorter implements such as my tiller, box blade, or scraper blade, with the loader down in the trailer. The largest thing ive been able to fit in there so far was my Land Plane, and that was with the bucket off the quick disconnect and the loader sitting on top of the bucket, all still in the trailer, but there was less than 1 inch total front and rear combined. When i take my tractor somewhere i always take a heavy chain and lock to lock the tractor to something while i am not there. All that being said, i also have a 22' tilt trailer, and i much prefer splitting jobs up to where i dump the material needed with the dump trailer then bring the tractor and any implements i need to the site in one trip.
I'm surprised that you are able to fit all of that in your trailer. It is nice having one "tool" that does it all.
@@TractorTechNice video Roger. Also have a 16' Load Trail dump trailer, it's a nice size trailer. I can fit my tractor with a front loader and logging winch with a foot to spare. I also am able to deliver 5 face cords with 2 foot sides without a problem.
@@seather863 That is nice you can fit your tractor with FEL and winch in your trailer. 5 facecord is a lot of wood. I haul 1.3 cords on this trailer. I stack my loads. I could add a 1' board to the sides and I would be just shy of 2 cords, but I doubt anyone would buy that much at once here.
You could haul the tractor and load dirt or gravel etc. go dump it and return to get the tractor. I think hauling with the front end loader over the front is ok but would want to lower it to resting position and you need 4 corners chained appropriately. Don't quote me on that. There are very few implements you could haul on even an 18 foot dump trailer without hanging out the back mainly box blade or 3 point planter or tiller and such.
I don't have much extra room on my 20' trailer with a scraper blade on the tractor.
The loader could be supported wit some costume made bars that could be bolted (probably quicker than chaining) with a battery powerd impacted driver once set up for it. This setup would serv well in place of chaining the loader which is required by law anyway.
@@michaelschettl9509 Not really faster than permanently mounted chain/binder of the correct dimensions
Good video, I recently bought a 16' 14K Gooseneck PJ dump trailer. The tow vehicle is a D3500 Ram. I have loaded my skid loader in it and pulled it around some and it works just fine. I want to try to load my tractor (NH TN70D with a FEL) on the dump trailer. Hopefully I will be able to load it with the box blade attached. I think it will go all right. I will put the loader bucket up on the gooseneck and chain it down. I have pulled this tractor quite a bit on my 22' GN utility trailer in this same manner. I usually have a shredder on the back of the tractor that hangs off the back of the trailer by about 3'. I've never had the cops look at me twice. I throw one chain over the bucket, 4 chains on the tractor and and one chain over the shredder. I am interested if any others haul tractors with FELs in this manner and if they have had any problems with it.
I think you will be fine with the loader on the gooseneck. Don't quote me on it but, I think you are allowed to have 4' overhanging.
Sick video thanks a lot for sharing this useful info
You are welcome!
Raise the front of the trailer, then you can drive that unit in.
I'm not sure if that would be a good idea. For one thing the ramps would not sit in the channel right and could slip out.
@@TractorTech I've been doing it for 15 years. They are made for heavy loads.
@@TractorTech that trough they sit in would be sufficient well beyond the maximum tilt angle of the trailer.
I had to laugh when you said it would be great if you could find a cheat to lessen the ramp angle!
Have longer ramps made and just stow them under the tractor in the dump bed.
dump the trailer and the ramps will lower, at least on my maxxhd does. and i fit my l3901 in a 14' dump all the time with a chipper and FEL.
Thanks for watching!
Nice job Bullitt
Thanks!
Thank you
You're welcome
Great video
Thanks!
This is why I bought a 16 foot dump trailer
What size tractor do you haul in it?
@@TractorTech i looked at a 16 foot kubota k-haul trailers wich there prices are pretty cheap
I have a 12’ long max d dump trailer and my John Deere 3032E tractor with loader attachment fits all the way inside the walls. I always back it on the trailer when I haul it also, weight distribution looks a little better that way.
Nice!
Hi Rodger!!😀😀
All you need to do with your big tractor is back it on. Then close the tailgate and slide your ramps in about 2/3s of the way in so you can set your loader bucket on them. Just a thought.
That's the way I would do it. Also if you raise your trailer bed up a little it makes your ramps a lot less steep for driving on and off.
Take care my friend!!😀😀
Logger Al
Hi Logger Al, I think the loader would pinch the doors on the trailer. They would have to be removed. I thought about raising the trailer, to load the BX but I am not sure if that is a good idea, and I am not sure if it is a bad idea. With a little tractor like that it probably would not hurt anything. I decided to play it safe for the video and leave it down. Thanks for watching and commenting! Have a good week and stay safe!
DOT rules state the attachments of the tractor must be individually chained to the trailer; outside the dump bed would not meet that requirement. If you live in an area where the police are up to date on the DOT rules and vigorously enforce them, they will get you for that violation. Some states are very strict, other states are not.
I haul a 770 David brown tractors with a 3point post hole diger on a 6.5 ×12. I have to load the tractor backwards to close the tailgate. The trailer is a single axle landscape trailer.
That is a load for a single axle.
L 4240 fits fine. You build a solid rest on the hitch. (Assuming trailer axle weight rating, hitch rating are ok.) It must be secured against trailer. Not trailer floor. (Unless it’s changed). It must be below hood height. (According to a MN DOT but he couldn’t find reason)
For smaller mower with back blade, weights. Back in, unhook blade, drive in. At base of ramp a 2’ 2”x6” likely enough. BTDT
I think with the loader hanging over that much I would have too much tongue weight.
Yes, I could lay boards on the ramps to get the BX in. I was more less doing it to make a point. Some implements are really long like a snowblower. So it would be hard to get in with something like that.
@@TractorTech It’s possible. Weights, overhang matter. Are the rear doors removable? If loader braced, chained (assuming fluid filled rear tires) you could have the bucket overhang up to IIRC a max of 4’ with flags during daylight. But you need to know balance points, as well as axle ratings, your experience, licensing...
I used a 12’ dump for yrs before I got a 18’ implement trailer. Listed as 20’ 6k axles. (Miss those 2’)
I have cheap magnet 4 plug lights for stuff not having lights. So I added in bucket. I was told I should have covered trailer tail lights as possibly confusing to drivers. 2 sets of turn, brake on rear.
Suggestion: I use combination stainless pin locks for all of several different hitches and combination brass gate locks etc Makes no keys necessary and you can change combinations . I use the combo gate locks attached to another lock to let other people in with a temporary combination . Thisworks kinda like a remote internet lock without the service!
Thanks, for the suggesiton. I was in at lowes, and they had the locking hitch pins on clearance. I want to think they were reduced down to $2 or $3. I got everyone they had even though my trailers at the time all had locking pins.. I still may have 2 or 3.
@@TractorTech this is a link to one similar to ones I use but this one isn't stain less.
www.autoanything.com/towing/77A5234A6361268.aspx?kc=GOOGADW&DZID=PLA_g_1776971199_66506509582_5234-6361268_c&gclid=CjwKCAjwsan5BRAOEiwALzomX2iO9zi-bS1-Byi8jSuvzm4q5UNmqyAm3dmgjKXXOGaY-yGNDLVm7xoCjCkQAvD_BwE
@@teekay1785 Thanks!
you dont need the rounds to go in the bucket to move them , Put bucket down like dumped out of lower edge to just above ground and drive forward. No you can't stack it this way but you can push it.
Yes, I can push them that way. I needed them to go into the bucket in this case so I could move them over to the pile.
Do you have to have a class a cdl to pull a trailer 10,001lb or more.
If you had a pickup truck you could detach your loader on the pickup bed and carry them separately. Or buy a gooseneck dump trailer and hang you loader over the top.
I have found that an 83x14 dump trailer is just about perfect for me. I have had tractors as small as a JD 1 Series in it all the way to a JD 4120 which is about equal to your L42. I may not have any room for a 3pt attachment but I have been able to fit them all with loaders in the trailer close the rear gate and have the bucket touching the bottom of the trailer.
Depending on the attachment, you possibly could haul it on your truck.
No one has ever said “I wish I had a smaller trailer”. As with tractors, trailers, and barns always get the biggest you can afford.
I agree, garages are never big enough too.
You only need to tie tractor down you can tip bucket down on trailer hitch
If I did that when I turn, the bucket would hit the truck.
i haul my bx in my trailer quite often ...i was not aware that the bucket had to be secured ...good info for me ...i will look for ways to secure my bucket by welding on a rack ...hopefully that will make it legal
Check your local laws to be sure. Can you drop the bucket off and put in the front of the trailer backwards, then put the loader on it? Some people are also concerned about the shock load on the hydraulic system with the loader being in the air. Empty IDK if it is much concern, but if you had a bucket full of top soil and went down the road and hit some bumps you may damage something in the hydraulic system.
Technically you need 6 tie down points. 1 at each corner, one for front bucket and one fit backhoe boom unless you have pins to lock it secure. Not sure if that's federal or not..I think it is tho. But need to be done here in Washington
A grapple would eliminate throwing logs by hand, breaking the cardinal rule of having to get off the tractor and do manual labor.
A few rounds like that is easier to move by hand.
I sure liked how stable the trailer was as you backed the L42 off the ramp. Nice and strong, Roger. Full-watch. 👍🏽🙂.
Thanks, they trailer is really well built. I looked at several brands and this was at the top. Sure tracs are usually expensive, but I found a dealer with great prices.
On the bigger tractor you could load it in backwards and let the bucket hang down over the tailgate. That way you don't have to worry about hitting your truck.
HOWEVER be careful not to cover your taillights and also make sure that you are within the over length requirements for your state. (Shouldn't be a problem with that size bucket).
If I let it hang over the back, I wouldn't have a way to chain loader down.
Ramps aren't out in the weather?? What about all the road salt and slush being thrown up on them? Do you raise the bed or pull them out to wash them?
Yes I take them out to wash them.
Thank you for the demonstration and measurements. I am analyzing my needs, mini ex/mini skid/skid/tractor, and what trailer(s) to accomplish the work at hand. This helped narrow down that a mini excavator is looking better and better. Now...rent/lease/buy?
Your welcome! Thanks for watching! I'm not sure what kind of work you have to do, but you can rent a large machine for a week or month and get your project knocked out. The if you need a machine to maintain it, you may be able to get by with something smaller. For example use a large mini to get your work done, then get a compact tractor to maintain it.
BUY.
Lease. 100% write off and when it breaks it’s not your problem.
Hey, I just found your channel through the tractor Facebook group. Nice video
Awesome! Thank you!
What kinda of bucket is that!?
Honest question, if you were hauling with a gooseneck, could you rest and chain the loader to the gooseneck?
I don't see why not
OMG, Implements can hang off the back, leave the gates chained open and roll. My mini ex is twice of that Kubota, haul it daily. What is it about that orange paint, lead chips?
So I should leave the rear doors open and be over width? I dont understand what hauling your mini ex has to do with anything.
Good job Roger. That is a lot of work. And a good looking tailer. I always wondered if my Ford 2000 would fit in my 10' dump but never got around to trying it. lol. Joe
Thanks Joe! I doubt it would go in a 10' trailer. If you take the front bumper off of it, it may come close.
@@TractorTech where is your shop at Roger? Joe
If you configured the same dump trailer in gooseneck instead of bumper pull could you haul the compact tractor and legally rest the loader down on the neck if it had a solid plate or wood platform on top?
If the loader was chained to the gooseneck you should be fine.
You need a gooseneck to rest the loader on. Or a 14 foot and build a loader holder.
I actually have a 20' trailer. I was just showing a tractor fit in a dump trailer.
What I do is use my bucket like a crane to put my box blade and grader blade into the back of the pickup. Then load the tractor, rest the bucket on the front of the trailer and tie it down and away I go!
I almost mentioned doing that in the video! Have a good week!
what weight bracket do you use that still allows for the brush guard?
Here is a video on it. ua-cam.com/video/SugOTzBVOGM/v-deo.html
Speaking of the sub compact it seems like for the front end loader you could weld up a ledge for it to rest on and be chained to. Then you could use a chain with the loader to put an implement in the bed of the truck. If you absolutely had to use a 12 foot dump anyways. Some sort of tight jobsite specialist.
You could do that. I was also thinking, you could take the bucket off and put in the front of the trailer backwards, then drop the loader on it.
@@TractorTech Put the bucket in the bed of the truck
I put a similar dent in the tailgate of my Tacoma while delivering my friend's BX on a 12' flat bed. The loader sat down nicely until I made a 90 degree turn into a diesel pump.
I was hoping no one would notice it lol. A tractor and trailer ran in to the back of the truck. The left bed side is messed up also. I bought it that way almost 2 years ago. I have another bed for it. I need to do somethings to it first and then put the bed on it so I can get it painted. I've had people laugh at it, but I don't care. I got a good deal on it.
Where is is stated that a bucket must be supported. Case 580s have the bucket suspended when parked. My BX23 has the backhoe bucket suspended when parked. Manlifts have the basket suspended when parked while the upper boom is locked. There are limits on over hanging loads and when they have to flagged, but I have never seen support requirements other than tied down every 10 feet and minimum tie downs.
www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/cargo-securement/drivers-handbook-cargo-securement-chapter-10-heavy-vehicles-equipment
@@TractorTech that section of the DOT regulations is not applicable to your machines.
First, I doubt your tractors weigh in excess of 10,000 Lbs. So you are deferred to standard tie-down regs.
Second, the part you are misinterpreting is where it says it must restrain the boom to prevent it from "articulating".
That applies to things like backhoes, excavators, and log loaders. "Articulating" means swinging laterally out of the confines of the trailer it is being hauled on. Your loader does not articulate per this definition, so you do not have to chain it down.
I had to laugh when you said that the loader would flop around if you tipped the trailer over. 😉
Preparing Equipment To Be Transported (Section 3.8.2)
Requirements
Lower and secure to the vehicle all accessory equipment (hydraulic shovels, booms, etc.).
Restrain articulated vehicles to prevent articulation while in transit.
@@michaelschettl9509 Possibly the bureaucrats who probably never have sat in this equipment and write this stuff think they know more the the manufactures. Personnel lifts with hanging baskets have warnings not to tie down the basket or upper boom to the transport vehicle. My Kubota shows 4 tie down locations and neither the backhoe or loader bucket are shown as tie downs. Maybe the voters in this country should take more interest in who is elected.
Wouldn't the loader just sit down on the front of the dump trailer with no problems? I feel like I've seen a ton of people do stuff like that before.
Also lift bed of dump trailer to lessen angle of ramps
I think the bed should be down while loading.
Could you put the loader bucket in the truck bed (detached) and let the loader arms down on top of the front wall with some cushion material or is anything outside the confines of the trailer walls not legal? Or even back it in and let the loader bucket hang out with doors secured in open position?
You probably could let the loader (bucketless) hang over and chain it down.
hey where did you get your spare tire cover? Does it lock?
I think I got it on etrailer. It is cloth so it doesn't lock. You can get a sort cable and a lock to secure the tire, then put a a cover over it. I got another spare tire cover on ebay.
I have a 16 ft PJ Gooseneck. I csn haul my L33 loader bucket and grader blade.
Nice. The PJ trailers are well constructed.
A gooseneck dump trailer would allow you to set the loader/bucket on the top of the neck and chain/strap it down. Probably can get away with a 16 or maybe 14 foot dump and have a box blade with that compact tractor. Not my choice for towing, I prefer gooseneck deckover trailers for hauling equipment. (diamond C)
A 16' gooseneck with a box blade would probably work. I'd like to have a 30' deckover gooseneck, but I really don't need one. I have a 20' 10k car trailer and it meets my current needs.
I ordered a gooseneck 16k suretrac deckover dump once opon a time but the deal fell through because they quoted me incorrectly (7k vs 8k axles) That was supposed to me my "do it all" trailer. Then I upgraded to a 110TLB and all of that went out the window. the 84" harley rake is 96" overall width so deckover is really the only way to go. Looked at lowboy trailers as well just wouldn't work too well. Thanks for the reply and nice videos, lots of interest on this subject on YT.
I think the biggest problem is on most trucks purchased with a class 5 hitch are not rated for use with most dump trailers.
What do you mean?
Does your trailer have stands on the back? I noticed when you were loading the bigger tractor, the trailer didn't tip at all.
This trailer doesn't have stabilizers. I wanted them on it but, it would have been a couple month wait to get it, as the dealer had just placed an order. I think the trailer doesn't move for a couple of reasons. First of all it is a 2 axle 12' trailer. Then secondly it is a well engineer trailer. The axles are placed properly, and the tongue is the right length. I have seen some dump trailers that have a long tongue like an RV tongue (which is longer) on an enclosed trailer. I have stabilzers on this trailer. ua-cam.com/video/lU24bx2jSnM/v-deo.html
@@TractorTech The fulcrum point on a dump trailer is the center of the back axle which is way closer to the back than on a regular flat or cargo trailer so the dump body doesn't hit the ground and if you forget to open the tail gate or the load hangs up it doesn't lift the back wheels of the truck and you go for a ride down a hill like my son did when he forgot to put the wood block under the back of my low 14,000lb flat trailer.
If you take notice any dump trucks the tail gate is closer to the axle than a flat stake body or tanker or, or you get the idea.
tilt the trailer up level with the ramps ,
I'm not sure if that would be a good idea. On a light machine like the BX it probably would not matter. On something heavier, it may not be good to do.
Good job on the video Roger when I first saw this video posted I thought you were going to demonstrate that you could haul a tractor in the dump trailer. After watching and all the demonstrations seems to not be a very good idea. Take care brother
In most cases a dump trailer is no the best way to haul a tractor. I have only hauled the BX one time in the dump trailer. I like things to be versatile and with the ramps, I can at least get the tractor in the trailer if I had to.
Curl loader and set it on the front gate
The tarp kit is there, so it would get damaged.
I got a good laugh when you "couldn't" get that mower in the dump trailer... The problem with the bigger end loader isn't the size, you could easily lower the bucket onto some dunnage across the front and secure it; no problem with it sticking out over the truck bed, no "cop bait"... Your problem with it would be those D Rings in the bed are no way near heavy enough for that tractor...
Thanks for watching.
How about a polyurethane block between the loader rams so it will not bleed down. And strap the bucket to the loader arms some how. The law was written encase the attachment came loose not the loader its self
Something to keep the loader from bleeding down, would work, then strap the loader to the trailer.
I've seen several videos with a BX23S loader and backhoe being towed by a 12x 83 dump trailer, there's even one using a 10' trailer. Your landscape tarp is keeping you from trying anything creative.
I mean honestly what youre doing is hauling a powerful lawn mower in a small dump trailer. You can haul an excavator in a dump trailer given the trailer is much larger than what is displayed here.
If you don't have a CDL any truck larger than a 3/4 ton pickup becomes a problem because the GVWR of say even a 1 ton f 350 for instance will be in the neighborhood of 13 to be 16 thousand lbs so if yo pull more than a 10,000 lbs trailer you run the risk of being over the 26,000 bls limit if your a none CDL driver so forced to use a truck under 3/4 ton.
I have a Ford F 550 flatbed fully with a gross GVWR of 17500 lbs just for the truck by it self & I can't even pull a 10,000 lbs trailer. I'm limited to a 8,500 lbs GVWR trailer in order for to be under 26,000 lbs for a driver without a CDL. That really stinks because pulling a 10 or 12 thousand pound trailer with a F 550 would be safer than pulling same with a 3/4 ton pickup.
I've heard of guys putting 350 badges on their 550 so the cops won't look at it.
That may be a good idea provided the cop doesn't pull ya over anyway & look at the tag in the door jam.
As long as it's not commercially used you don't have to stay under 10000lbs you should stay within gvwr of truck yes...I have a f350 ccsb with a 16,000 lb fifth wheel which puts me at about 26,000 combined, Loaded. At least here in Washington state. Fifth wheel towing for my truck is 16,000lbs and trailer towing 14k
You can also put loader over top of the front of trailer
That's not really a good way to haul it.
Raise the trailer to decrease the angle!
If the angle is too steep the ramps won't sit in their channel properly and they could fall out.
Built a rest for the bucket. Come up from the tongue of the trailer to a height the bucket can rest on and be chained to. Wonder if that is legal? Hmmm.
You probably could but the trailer may have too much tongue weight like that.
@@TractorTech Good call.
Drop hitch and load It backwards
Put the implement on the truck...
You could depending on what the implement is and what size tractor and truck you have.
Good day Sir 🌞 That bucket is working very good and your are in great shape Sir 👍😊 Great trailer 👍😊I have a question Sir, if your were putting the tractor on the other way and chain up the bucket to your rear trailer are you aload to do this ? Since the bucket will be secure on the back of your nice trailer ? Great looking Cat 👍 Great video full watch as always Sir and have a great week end Cheers 😊🌞👍
Thanks Dave. The bucket is a huge time saver. I wish I was in better shape, I am changing my program. Putting the bucket on the back of the trailer like that maybe splitting hairs. Some cops my let it go and other may not, IDK. The cat was a stray. He has been here a few months. His name is Conor McGregor. He is a fighter. If he sees another cat he is on it. He is a really nice cat other than that. When he hears my voice like when I am making a video he come running. Have a great week.
@@TractorTech LOL That name is a professional martial art 👍😊 Keep up the good works Sir and you too have a great week Cheers 😊👍
I had to laugh when you said that the loader would flop around if you tipped the trailer over. 😉
Your loader does not need to be tied down as long as you have properly tied the tractor itself down on 4 corners.
You could make a pair of channels like most loaders have as safety props for when you have to work under them, that you could rest the loader against then strap it down to the tongue or the interior D-rings.
With out the loader being tied down, it could move in an accident.
4 corners front bucket and backhoe boom need tied down with its own binder. Unless back boom has both pins in it or at least the swing pin.
I can
Can you put the tractor in backwards.
With the loader hanging over the back of the trailer, it would make the trailer light on the tongue.
I doubt there would be a problem with lack of tong weight, the back of a tractor is usually heavier than the front especially if tires are filled with fluid.
hook chaine wrong side
Thanks for watching!
Sorry, I cant stand the hydro wine.
Thanks for watching!
Why waste money on buying such a short trailer when you intended to haul a variety of equipment ?
That was the point of this video. I have numerous trailers for different tasks.
@@TractorTech Thank you for your reply !
This is why you tube shouldn’t be used for education. Machine should be backed up ramp So you can’t flip the machine on yourself. Educate yourself before putting out a video. Trailer 101 already failed
Wow, I load tractors all the time like that. It’s not like he’s climbing out of a ditch line. I always back a skid steer up or a mini excavator