Replacing Heater Blend Motors on 2006 Range Rover Sport
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- This is a video on where to locate heater blend motors on a 2006 Range Rover Sport. All five of mine gave out on me, and if your AC is just blowing hot air, this could be the problem. Also if one vent has cold air coming out, two or three, then this for sure is one of your the blend motors. I hope this helps someone out there since I could not find nothing on the internet on how to locate or how to disassemble your console.
I applaud you for taking the time to post the video, this is a messy bit of work most do not want to attempt, and it is an expensive fix at the dealer; however you went over board on the tear down to get to the motors.
You needed to remove only cubby, footwell panels, glove box and all the trim associated with these parts.
It should take about 3 hrs to tear down and replace blend motors/heater core.
+Todd Harris Thanks brother for the help, I looked up all over the internet for videos and manuals to how to get to them and couldn't find anything, so i just jumped in and did it. I got them all switch out but the fifth one and put everything back together. thanks again for the help brother. We should post videos out there for guys like me that don't know crap but are willing to do the work.
Todd Harris how did you replace the heater core without taking the dash off?
@@dkindig1 I was just wandering through youtube and ran into this video again, not realizing at first I had seen this video before. That being said I just saw this question, which I am sure David Kindig has solved already, but just in case anyone else needs help...
The first thing is to get the proper heater core. There seem to be two available, one with the pipes attached and one with the pipes included but separated. I believe it is related to the MY of the car. Earlier MY's have joints closer to the heater core. If you have a version with the joined pipes you can remove them from the core itself.
High level; remove the center console surround, which requires you to remove the shifter, the hockey sticks on either side, the cubby, and the lower console insert. remove the glove box, the inner trim panel (center console). You can see the heater core and the pipes from here. undo the screws holding the pipes together and separate, remove the passenger side blend motor, and remove the heater core.
It is possible as well to accomplish this without removing the center console etc., but you will need to cut out part of the center console(it will be hidden when you put the lower panel back on). to allow the core to come out. Cut it out and plastic weld it back in if it bothers you.
Driver's side takes about 20 minutes. Remove panel below steering column. Blend door actuator is the lower of the actuators. Snip off a little plastic from the area covering the top of the actuator. Remove three screws and remove actuator. The trimmed plastic does not effect the structural integrity and is covered by the panel when installed. The other actuators you are pointing out are recirc and mode door actuators. Nothing needs programming. Holding two buttons on HVAC panel and turning on the key starts calibration. There are only two temperature blend door actuators. You have wasted a tone of time and are just going to introduce noise when reassembled.
+greg chapman Yeah now I know. I'm a do it yourself guy because I like doing stuff like this. When I did this there were no videos on how to do it yourself so I didn't know. Thanks for the help.
I was able to get the driver's side blend door actuator out using Greg's method. It is extremely tight but can be done, but then could not install the replacement due to the blend door sprocket teeth didn't line up with the new actuator. I had to start the car and let the calibration sequence run and spin the actuator arm around until it lined up while holding the actuator in place and pushing, when the gears lined up I was able to push it fully into place, then attach the screws again. Before doing that I used an inspection mirror and took pics of the sprocket gear with my phone, the teeth on the gear were pretty chewed up. I could cycle the blend door with my fingers rotating the gear but with such a tight squeeze, I couldn't tell if the blend door was sticking or fully opening and closing. I eventually took everything out like Shelby7922 to get better access. I was able to rotate the blend flap all the way open and shut but it takes a bit of torque with 2 fingers,, I'm wondering if over the years it has become stiffer and eventually strips the gear. There is no way to really tell once the new actuator is on whether it is truly opening the blend door. In the end this didn't solve my problem of no heat on the drivers side (passenger side fine). Either the blend door sprocket is fully stripped or as I have seen in other posts, the heater is partially blocked and that is the problem, but its still hard for me to believe that would cause perfect heat on one side and none on the other. I don't relish the thought of taking everything apart again. The Heater box unit is no longer available for RRSport 05-09 so I don't know how to repair the blend door sprocket. What a design flaw nightmare on an otherwise beautiful vehicle.
Hi Guys, Great work really appreciated by us Range Rover owners. I Have a question I have a Range Rover Sport 2006. I have noticed that the drivers side has air con and heating in the front and rear, but the passengers side only has ac, no good for the winter. After reading your great communications am I right in assuming that the blend motors on the passengers side of the vehicle need replacing ? When I turn the heating control from AC to heat I can hear a motorised sound as if turning from cold to hot ? If it is the Blend motors ? are they located on the passengers side, as that is where the trouble is?
Kind regards Chris
Is this the same for a 2008 lr2
Thanks brother for your help
I have a question. Great video also. My issue is that I have no heat blowing at all through no vents. Is the blend motor under the glove box the main heat door?
06 Range Rover Sport blower motor completely died. Land Rover dealer will charge $2,800 to replace. Is this accurate? They noted 16 hours in labor. Comments?
Linda Eastman they charged you WAY to much! The blender motors are $50 each, and there’s four of them, and one more that’s $75, total of 5 blender motors. I later learned that I did way more than I needed to to change them out. So the labor that they charged you is not what they say they did. It’s far more simpler than what I did here in the video. They wanted to charge me $2,100 for this, and they told me it was something els. Never trust the Land River dealer. I took it to the dealer in Redondo Beach, and I took it to the River dealer in Vegas, and I got two different diagnosis. Never trust the dealers, just a bunch of crooks.
If you drive the vehicle like a big baller then pay the cost. We all need to make a profit. You work for free? You charge too much what ever it is you do.
@@Shelby7792
Hello
I saw your video to change the blower motor
You said that you went over doing
To remove the one on the driver side is any simple method
If you have any link please share
Thank you
What a nightmare, I have a P38 Range Rover with stuck blend motors, I was able to get them working again using a wiring diagram and a 9v battery.
I assume the old grease had jammed things up, cycled them a few times fully open / close by reversing polarity, been a few months now and all still working good.
Bloody good fix mate!
I've done these before didn't do a 3rd of the work you've done here.. I can tell by the tools and how you explained that this is smthg all new for you... I give you an A for effort though.. I think your going to have issues once putting it all
together...
Bad video as it starts too far into the process particularly if it’s only a drivers side issue! NONE of this is necessary for drivers side issue, and only 1/2 necessary for the rest! WAY TOO MUCH DISASSEMBLY…Much easier than this!!
Worst vehicle I have ever purchased. Range rover should be ashamed of the shit they make
Shelby says that if we're only getting AC on the drivers side then its likely a passenger side blend motors? Is that true? I tested the lower drivers side and that wasn't it so it seems Greg Chapman wasn't correct. It didnt have anything to do with temperature only air flow direction, vent to floor it seemed.
Does anyone know which one will get heat to my drivers side??? My passenger side is blowing nice and warm. Air flow is strong on both, but cold only on the drivers side.
My LR3 will only blow cold on the drivers side, but will blow warm or cold on passenger side. My IIDTool shows fault "B1B76-00 (28) Front left air blend stepper actuator".
what if your just getting cold air while the heater is on
Thats my problem as well???
@@vfpaintjobs i just had mine looked at today and unfortunately it seems a mouse has chewed some wires that take power to the actuators. Seems like there are other “common “ issues with these.
I was hoping to just have the heater core flushed out. Maybe look into that first
I quit
Hmmm so if my heat is coming out of just the front passenger side, do you think this would be a blender motor issue?
Wow, how long did it take you to take this apart? and how many screws. If you in Florida I will Pay you to install mines, Thanks
Watch my video of the last half of it touches on why heater cores don’t blow 100% hot! ua-cam.com/video/HZWP7LihuxU/v-deo.html
I got a 2007 RR Sport HSE , AC and heat work well, but no heat on drivers side. Which motor would it be? I also get a coolant smell, but the dealer can't find any leaks? Any advice will help. Thinking about trading it in, don't have the time or money right now to deal with this... sad because I love this thing!!
Nice video like you say no others on it and it seems common if it wasn’t for you people wouldn’t have come by that there is only 2 motors saving us some time. Fair play for doing it yourself and videoing!
I have a 2009 Range rover sport and I am sure that its the lower blender motor on driverside but I can't see it when I remove the panel
Great information,thanx so much 👍🏼💯
Nice video, real mess you made :-)
Hope your problem is solved....
My left two vents, driverside, will not blow warm/hot air, is that the same problem, and if so, will I need to replace all five? Or is there a left heat core which could be faulty ?
Thanks in advance !
+John Koot Like Greg said on how to remove the panel's. turn your ac on and with them heat or AC while someone looks at the servos. you'll see one move and you can hear them turn. So incant hear them turn you found the bad one. but there a total of five, two on the driver side and passenger side and the fifth one is behind the glove under the dash. The fifth one controls the inside to outside cycle. hope this helps.
Greg chapman what two motors control temp. My sport has heat all around but only ac on the drivers side. I have been trying to figure out what controls this before I take it apart and replace things that might not need resting
+Tyler Orr If your driver side is AC then the blend motors on your passenger side are bad. You have two on each side, one controlling the vents to the face and dash and the other controls the vents to your feet. Sounds like you have the ones on Passenger side are bad.
+Shelby7792 how do you know it's not the climate control bad?
Hi all can this be the problem I'm not getting hot air on passengers side can anyone help
My local land rover is having a hard time helping me figure out the part itself because they say it's is no longer called a blend door actuator. I have a 2007 RRS, would you know what part of is? I need the one at the bottom of the driver side closest to the gas pedal. Or do you have a picture of it by chance?
Stepper motor
Thank you so much.
No. Muestran. El. Desmonte. Dela. Polea. Delantera. De. La. Ranger. Rover. 2006
I have a 2008 Range Rover Sport package I have no AC coming out whatsoever I already changed the motor blower what else could it be
Bank Roll Mafia Romero it could be your blend motors. Your blend motors are the dampeners that flip your acc to heat.
How did you know it's was your blender motor is defective
It would be the same problem. These blend motors change the dampers from hot to cold.
I have a problem with my LR4 2010, where the passenger side blows completely cold air, even on full temp and regardless of direction of air flow. Drivers side blows only luke warm, regardless of direction.
The only way I could kinda heat the cabin was to have only the face vents on, with all passenger vents closed.
Recently it has become worse. Only the centre, drivers side vent will blow warm air, right hand of the steering wheel vent is now also blowing cold.
I had resorted to taping up the passenger screen and footwell vents and having the heating set to screen only. This blows only warm air and by the time it has hit the screen and then me, it is cold Censored
Best scenario now, is not to use any of the vents and just have the heating on high, so it just eminates into the cockpit from every orrifice in the dash (punch myself in the face emoticon)
Rear vents are cold too.
I have taken the driver side footwell panel off, to reveal the heater matrix. Both pipes are red hot.
I bought an iid tool and re learned the actuators limits and the stepper motor, but no dice there unfortunately.
Air con works great on all vents.
Do you think It is the actuators/blend motors?
lee byrne, sounds as if you have that blend motor on that side has gone bad.
Does this car use a fsr at all?? Can't find it anywhere
Why did you have to do this? Is it because they were faulty? Or did you have other issues?
Temperature blend door actuautors tend to go on these cars eventually. Usually you will get no warm/cold air coming from one or more vents which is an indication that the motors are not blending the air properly. However this same condition could be an indication of the heater core going(yes, even if you are getting heat from some of the vents).
+yalahbib I replaced four of them because i just didn't want to take the chance of another one going bad.
+Todd Harris if you're getting heat on one side and AC on the other it is definitely one of your blend motors. If you're getting heat on driver side and AC is on, then the motors on the driver side are bad,vice versa.
Great video! Too hard for me to tackle myself. I've got a question. About a month ago the AC was working fine, then all of a sudden the fan wasn't blowing hard enough and it wasn't cold enough either. Then all was good again the next day.This lasted about a month and it happened again yesterday. Just like before and the air coming out of all the vents in the truck was weak, even though the dial was set at the maximum speed. I decided to have the freon level checked and the mechanic said it was low. Now with freon added, the car is really cold and fan blowing really hard. Could low freon cause the blend motor to malfunction? Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance. Did your blend motor stopped working immediately or was it intermittent? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Don't worry about the length mate it give us some valuable information. So thank you!
So you don't think it will be the AC compressor it's cuz my AC hoses turn really cold and icy when I turn the AC on
Bank Roll Mafia Romero, tune the car on, turn your AC on, then turn the heater on. If you feel and hear the change in air flow, that means your blend motors are working. You can tell the deference when you change AC to hater, because you can hear the dampeners change. If you can tell if it changes over then you know it’s not your blend motors, could possibly be something els, in your case the AC compresor.
Do not attempt to remove the console fascias! You will damage many of the clips that hold them on I don't think they were meant to be removed from the console body. The whole center console can be unbolted fairly easily, and taken out of the car. After you have removed the 4 bolts on the shifter saddle and the 2 screws in the front that connect to the heater fascia, there are only 2 more bolts in the rear of the console on each side under a small panel that pops out, move the seats all the way forward for access. Then Unclip the 2 wire harnesses that come up through the floor Then the whole console can be removed. I had one wire that came up from under the passenger seat then under the console and connected to the harness inside the rear console cover that has the rear vents and rear seat heater switches, so I had to take that cover off first and unclip the wire, I think it was something a previous owner had connected it spliced into the power for the rear seat cigarette lighter. There is another You-Tube video that shows how to remove the console rear cover.
FYI You also have to unclip the transmission cable from the shifter, it pops off like a ball and socket joint and remove the clip that holds the cable to the console before removing the console,
Thanks dude only video that helped me
Thank u so much
What do theses blend motors do?
BORICUA CHANNEL they turn the flaps to the air ducts to your AC and heater ducts.
Shelby7792 Does this also control the rear AC
They regulate the temperature, as controlled on your dash
Can you give me any instructions on getting the side panels off?
Wacko C here you go. Hope you are successful. ua-cam.com/video/poQmCr_HSBQ/v-deo.html
Shelby7792 thanks for the quick reply. I have that step done. I need to know how you got the leather wrapped sides off that go to the floor?
Wacko C it’s one entire piece. You ha e to unbolt the entire thing. I wish I could post pictures but I can’t. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232361345791
Shelby7792 oh, ok. It looks like you have the sides off in the video but the eBay link makes sense. Thanks again for the quick replies. I'm replacing my heater core.
my refrigerator is in my kitchen!
Hi would you happen to have a email address I can contact you on as I have the same issue but stuck on how to remove certain items
Would happen to know why in traffic AC blows 70-80*. Driving down the road it blows 50* I already replaced the expansion valve in the dash. No real change in performance. Had it evac'd, tested, dyed, for leaks, then recharged twice. No leaks. Had the condensor and radiator cleaned on exterior to ensure airflow through fins. No change. It is like it cuts off. It is a 2012 LR4. Grear job on the video!
HalfMoon You know it might be your AC/heater controls console. I have a friend that brought his RRS to me and it turns out that the knob that controls the passenger side was shorted out and was throwing the servo blend motors off. Switched that out and problem solved. I've been finding that these short out when people spill drinks on their consoles and short out their knobs when turning on the unit right after the spill. Check that out. It's easy taking the console apart.
Thamk you. I will check into it. I still have not figure it out. Even if i bring the rpm up when parked, thinking maybe it is the compressor, changes nothing. Yet, as soon as we get going it will cool again. I have thought it might be a sensor or blend door issue from get go. My manifold gauge readings have never given any indication that the system should not be cooling. The other day the dash displayed an ambient reading of 92*. Yet, the actual outdoor temp was 80*. I read that sensor is in the grill area. I will check that out too. Thanks!
HalfMoon man that just sound weird.
Oh you are telling me. Today it blew cold all day long. Tomorrow it'll probably lose all its marbles.
HalfMoon it could be the clutch on your AC compresor.
I have a 2009 RRSport…..this is too much work. I’d Rather go make money in my business instead. And buy a new car … good video nevertheless
Ok i will try that and see n i will let you know
I tried it and it didn't do nothing I need feel no changes so what you think it would be
Bank Roll Mafia Romero it’s probably your blend motors.
I got it it was the resistor to the motor blower ..