Thanks for taking your time to post this vid Lonnie, just wanted to add my $.02 because I did the same thing and ran into another issue. So I cleaned rebuilt all 3 carbs with new gaskets and the motor ran awesome. However, my joy only lasted about 15 mins and then the motor started losing power to the point it wouldn't rev past 2000 rpms. It turns out that the old fuel lines that run from carb to carb had degraded to the point where bits started to separate from the inner liner and worked their way down to the inlet of the bottom carb. This clogged up the bottom carb needle/seat inlet to almost no flow so bottom carb was being starved of fuel. My recommendation is to REPLACE ALL FUEL LINES! there are no screen filters at the inlet so your fitting will fill with shit until no fuel can get into the carb. A strand of fuel line should be less then $10 so it's a no-brainer
Great point! I rebuilt the carb on mine and it ran great for a few minutes and went back to 3k rpm on wot. Turned out there were still tons of crude in the fuel tank that ended up clogging the carb all over again. I've also added a filter between the fuel tank and primer bulb.
Just ran across your video! Thanks for the great tutorial. I had already determined myself to DIY it and your video made me very confident. Now I'm just waiting on the rebuild kit to arrive. I read through comments as well and I believe I'll heed the advice of others and go ahead and change lines out as well. And probably install a filter before the bulb.
Thank You Lonnie for this video, I have a 2001 40HP and had everything done 2 years ago and it cost me over $500. I believe I will be doing my own maintenance from here on out.
One of the first videos I watched to gain knowledge on my merc. I suggest to all buying a mercury service manual from Mercury Marine for your engine. They are great with all the info you need to maintain, rebuild and service your motor. Great detail with pictures👍
Hi Lonnie, just saw your video pop up again and decided to say hi. My 60 still runs great and have learned so much since I got the mercury service manual and watching UA-camrs "This Old Outboard" and "Kodi Bass". I also have a 2000 Yamaha 4hp kicker and a friend gave me a 1957 Mercury Mark 10 that runs. Had to fix minor stuff and got a tiller handle off of ebay for cheap👍
Hi from Québec , Canada ! Great tutorial , thank you so much for your help , I need to do the same on my Mercury 90 ELPTO (2006). Your video convinced me to do it myself !
Same problem mine had. Did the same fix, works as good as new. Problem was leaving the fuel in it for over a year and a half! The ethanol fuel is killer on these engines. Now I run Stabil all the time, never a carb problem again!
Be sure to spray carb cleaner from the straw through ALL PASSAGES. Spray cleaner through the brass piping going from the bowl to the top of the carb. You should see light through the brass pipe.
New to owning a boat. Just bought an Alumacraft 16 ft (from my daughter and her husband) with a 2001 Merc Tracker. Motor cranks but won't idle. Boat sat for 7 years. We knew it may not run. Figure it may need a lower oil change, plugs and carburetor clean out. Trying this to see if it helps. Great video, thank you!
Thanks Lonnie, my 03 60 HP Merc was missing. Thanks to your video I had the info needed to pull and clean the carbs. Following your instructions it went perfect. Motor runs great now. I did replace the filter also. Thanks Again!
Thomas Briggs Sr I have a 50hp (2004) and i was wanting to change the fuel filter where is it located. Boat runs great now but looking at preventative maintenance. Thanks in advance.
I too am just getting ready to rebuild my carbs on my 02 60hp 2 stroke B.F. The video makes it look so easy. Did you run into any issues and did it fix your problems? Hit me with an e-mail if possible at donahueb0047@yahoo.com Thanks
great video, but you engine should turn 5000-5500 rpm's..so you need a prop of at least two sizes smaller pitch..(so say if its a 12 pitch you need a 10 pitch..
I TRIED TO DO IT AGAIN SIR / WISH ME LUCK FISHING WITH OTHERS SOMETIMES IS NOT MY CHOICE JUST SAYING . LOVE YOU VIDEO WILL KEEP SUPPORTING . THANKS FOR YOUR HELP .ARMY STRONG .
I was just wondering about that metal washer in my kit. I guess that's for a different carb. I cleaned mine. Was able to get it off the trailer now but can't go full throttle. I guess I'm going to clean it again and replace the hoses.
Wow, amazing video. I took my bass tracker out the other day with old gas in it. Put super unleaded and thought I would be ok. I could not get my boat to plain out. Do you think it is a carb problem or filter or spark plug?
Really nice vid Lonnie - appreciated. Have the same motor and will attempt the same carb kit maintenance. I see oil leakage from each of my gaskets and oil has accumulated in the bottom of the motor housing. I hope replacing the gaskets solves this issue. The motor also idles a bit rough and stalls out occasionally at low rpm. Also, wanted to ask if you have ever had an issue with a "phantom" trim up? Mine has this issue intermittently. It trims up by itself. I assume a wiring issue, but can't find it. Note I disconnected all switches and the problem still persisted so I've concluded it's not a bad switch. Was hoping you may have some insight. Thanks again.
Bass Pro shops service center is where I purchased my parts but you should be able to search google with your model # and find the parts you need. There's lots of model #'s so you need to get the right parts for your model#.
Thanks, Lonnie, for a great video and explanation. Can I ask - are these float chamber draining screws I see on the starboard sides near the bottom of each carb? I've been told that my engine's rough running is due to water in the fuel and that this has ended up in the carbs - will draining from these screws along with some fresh fuel (in a clean tank!) do the job? Would you recommend an additive to the fuel - I understand there are some that will mix any remaining water droplets in to the petrol and allow it to be burned off? Thanks
Don Mack Yes, sometimes you can open the drain screws and get the water out but you have to put a rag under the carbs to catch whatever comes out. what I do all the time is use 89 octane because 87 has more water in it. I also use Sea Foam: it works really well.
***** Thank you - really appreciated. Thinking through how a 2-stroke gets its fuel, would water in the carb also end up in the crankcase and - if so - would it tend to clear itself in time, or could this remain an issue? Or does everything in the crankcase ultimately end up getting pumped into the cylinders?!
Don Mack The water should be expelled out the exhaust. I think the water would have to get pass the rings to get into the crankcase. I have never had that issue.
Lonney, shouldn't you have measured and adjust the high of the floater after changing the small gasket? I did exact what you posted, very well explained, thanks.
Hi Lonnie. Thanks for your answer. I did same thing guided by your video and SURPRISE !!!! the engine started at the first touch of the key. I have had a little trouble synchronizing the 3 carbs, but is a minor detail. Thanks again for your lecture.
Hi, I noticed in this video your carburetors were missing some screws on the top of the carb next to the idle screw. I have a 100 Mariner with four carbs. My bottom two had the second screw installed, the top two did not. Are they supposed to be in on all carbs? It is hard to imagine a threaded hole should not get the screw provided in the rebuild kit. Can anyone tell me about these?
Great vid. I have the exact same engine and I've let it sit for a couple of years. Are there any adjustments (lean/rich) that need to be messed with after this process? It was running well when it last ran. Thanks. Jimmy.
Jimmy Kipper You shouldn't have to adjust anything if the motor was running good before hand. You might want to try some Sea-Foam before you spend any $$ for parts. Sea-Foam cleans carbs very well.
Thank you, Mr. Johnson. I have the 2003 40 HP of this motor, and that is exactly what mine is doing. It starts out fine, then drops to about half power or less at full throttle. When I push the enrich button at the key, it revs for a second or two, then goes back down. Has this fix lasted for you?
Mega Bass No, as long as you don't make any adjustments to the carburetors you shouldn't have any problems. All your doing is cleaning and replacing gaskets.
I have this same motor and it won't stay running unless I keep priming it and when I can get it running when I gear I only have half power of that what was the running issues with this motor before carb rebuild
This is a great video. I'm having the same issue but because of ethanol eating the lining out of my fuel lines on a Mer. 40 HP 2 stroke. Motor would idle 30-40 seconds and die unless pushing elec choke. Would run top speed and die. Fuel lines were collapsing and I'd limp back to the docks. Rebuilt fuel pump today but no difference. Tomorrow I'm doing the carb. This really made me think I can do this. Is there anything I need to do special with the needle valve and that spring that has the pin going through on the float?. Does a needle valve come with the rebuild kit? Excellent video.
Thanks...if it was running good before it started failing, then you shouldn't have to change anything, just clean it really good. Let me know how it turns out?
Blowing out lines today in the 98 degree heat. Rebuilt fuel pump and had carb off and was clean at dealer. Gotta be some grit in a fuel line some where
Everything from the tank to motor and blew out all lines under the cowl..It's running now and better and quieter than it has for years. Dumped the fuel filter on the engine a few times because of grit and fuel line. Pumped abut a pint of gas through it. Low speed RPMs good and full bore is smooth and as fast as you can expect for a 40HP. Again thanks for the Video it helped me get everything tore down myself.
Hi Lonnie: First , awesome video, super helpful. I have the exact same engine , a 2005 Mercury 50 hp 2-stroke. I have a similar problem where I have the boats at full throttle and it is only going 10 mph. I posted a few videos on my youtube page if you want to see exactly what it the engine is doing. I am trying to see if it maybe something else but I have the feeling it is the carbs. My question to you is this, I am not very mechanical however I can do the basic stuff. That said , i just bought my boat and don't have another $500 to have carbs done. Do you think that cleaning the carbs myself is doable? I guess what I am trying to say is can I clean them myself without doing more damage and get it done right by watching your video. Let me know what you think. Thank you!!
Thanks. It 's very doable. Clean the carbs and change the gaskets. You don't have to pull the jets just spray them with carb cleaner. It's not that bad and save yourself $500 to spend on something else. Let me know how your doing.
LonnieJohnson1 ok - I may have some more questions for u as this issue moves forward. This weekend I am going to try the bulb and see if that helps and check the gas vent. If no luck - it's on to the carbs.. gulp!!!
My pump ball was falling apart on the inside. You might want to replace it if its been on there a while. As it flakes apart it will go through the filter and clog up your gas lines. My primer ball was 12 years old, spongy and rotten on the inside.
LonnieJohnson1 I meant to ask you, have you had a chance to look at any of my videos? I posted a bunch of videos showing what my engine acting up and it may help show the problem. Let me know if you have any idea what you think my problem might be?
What happens if the gaskets between carb and black and Carb and inlet are bad ? Harder to start , engine doesn’t idle good or cuts out cold ? I see a spall gap in one of these on my Mariner
I did the same rebuild on a 90 Mercury. Everything went fine and now it has a fairly high idle. I didn't adjust any idle screws so I'm not sure why it would idle higher now. I noticed that you didn't adjust or check the float levels and no sync or idle mix adjust after. Are these required steps post rebuild for this engine?
If it ran good before u cleaned the carbs then it should run the same after with no adjustments. The idle is easy to adjust if u think it needs adjusted down a little.
I got them from Bass Pro Shop marine dealer but they needed my model and serial# to get the right parts. They told me there's lots of different 50hp models that take different parts. You can probably google your model# and see what parts pop up.
I am looking to go through our carbs on the exact same engine. 2006 50HP. But I am having a difficult time trying to figure out what kit you went with. Did you use the Mercury Repair Kit #823635 4? If this is not the kit, can you supply the one you did use? Thanks for the helpful video.
Thank you for the reply. Looking at the 6:00 mark it looks like I have the same gasket kit as well. The repair kit comes with the gaskets, along with springs and needles which is more than what is needed for a simple carb cleaning. I will be cleaning them this week, thanks again for the great video on for our little engines!!
This video you posted was a GREAT tool, thanks again. We just purchased this boat with this engine. Not only was it the first time I worked on it, it was also our first outboard. And little projects like this can turn disastrous if something is missed or broken, and you posting this video made the project extremely simple without a learning curve that usually results in broken parts for me.
143Chippy Because this wasn't a rebuild on the carbs. video I just clean them and replaced the gaskets, that's all they needed. Wasn't nothing wrong with the jets, they were working fine. Why??? Do you have bigger issues with your carbs?
I have the same motor u had. But i had a hard time start it up. Do I have to clean up the cab. Like u did to make it start easier? If u have any info please lmk.....thx.
Here is what I do. If its been sitting for a while drain the gas from the pump ball line before connecting it to the motor. If you have a hard time starting it spray some WD-40 into the intake and it should start. Put some Sea Foam in your gas tank, it works great. Hope this helps.
I purchased it at the Bass Pro Shop service center but you should be able to get a kit at any marine service center or from an online parts dealer. I used the # from the motor so they could get me the right kit. Here's a link marineengine.com
It is possible to disconnect the oil injector and buzzer then premix your own fuel. You will have to call a marine service center to find out what the oil gas ratio is for the motor that you have.
Got the same one cleaned my now i can not stop them leaking i was told my float was to high .fixed that still leaking is there a gas regulator on this motor .my carburetors have the number on them
do you have a video to set those float / i put my float even with the carburetor still leaking got new pins /float / rebuild kit gaskets .wish you was close to me i would pay you/thanks for your help .
I would also check the fuel pump because my neighbors 60hp Mercury did what yours is doing and it turned out to be the fuel pump. The pump should be easy to check.
It's RPM... NOT RPMs... (The revolutions are plural... NOT the minutes...) Minutes is singular...! ie: the number of revolutions (Multiple) in one (Single) minute... therefore 28 Hundred RPM...!
@@LonnieJohnson1 some people just NEED to be right about an insignificant correction. It makes them feel better because they feel they know something the rest of the world doesn't.
Thanks for taking your time to post this vid Lonnie, just wanted to add my $.02 because I did the same thing and ran into another issue. So I cleaned rebuilt all 3 carbs with new gaskets and the motor ran awesome. However, my joy only lasted about 15 mins and then the motor started losing power to the point it wouldn't rev past 2000 rpms. It turns out that the old fuel lines that run from carb to carb had degraded to the point where bits started to separate from the inner liner and worked their way down to the inlet of the bottom carb. This clogged up the bottom carb needle/seat inlet to almost no flow so bottom carb was being starved of fuel. My recommendation is to REPLACE ALL FUEL LINES! there are no screen filters at the inlet so your fitting will fill with shit until no fuel can get into the carb. A strand of fuel line should be less then $10 so it's a no-brainer
Yes! always a good idea to check or replace the lines if needed. Thanks
Great point! I rebuilt the carb on mine and it ran great for a few minutes and went back to 3k rpm on wot. Turned out there were still tons of crude in the fuel tank that ended up clogging the carb all over again. I've also added a filter between the fuel tank and primer bulb.
Are you talking about those small fuel lines that run from one carb to the next carb?
Just ran across your video! Thanks for the great tutorial. I had already determined myself to DIY it and your video made me very confident. Now I'm just waiting on the rebuild kit to arrive. I read through comments as well and I believe I'll heed the advice of others and go ahead and change lines out as well. And probably install a filter before the bulb.
Thank You Lonnie for this video, I have a 2001 40HP and had everything done 2 years ago and it cost me over $500. I believe I will be doing my own maintenance from here on out.
Yes I here that. Labor cost is a big factor.
One of the first videos I watched to gain knowledge on my merc. I suggest to all buying a mercury service manual from Mercury Marine for your engine. They are great with all the info you need to maintain, rebuild and service your motor. Great detail with pictures👍
I agree, I have a few service manuals.
Hi Lonnie, just saw your video pop up again and decided to say hi. My 60 still runs great and have learned so much since I got the mercury service manual and watching UA-camrs "This Old Outboard" and "Kodi Bass". I also have a 2000 Yamaha 4hp kicker and a friend gave me a 1957 Mercury Mark 10 that runs. Had to fix minor stuff and got a tiller handle off of ebay for cheap👍
Hi from Québec , Canada ! Great tutorial , thank you so much for your help , I need to do the same on my Mercury 90 ELPTO (2006). Your video convinced me to do it myself !
Thanks and your welcome. It looks intimidating but its not that bad. Glad to help.
Same problem mine had. Did the same fix, works as good as new. Problem was leaving the fuel in it for over a year and a half! The ethanol fuel is killer on these engines. Now I run Stabil all the time, never a carb problem again!
Be sure to spray carb cleaner from the straw through ALL PASSAGES. Spray cleaner through the brass piping going from the bowl to the top of the carb. You should see light through the brass pipe.
I spray it with Sea-foam, best on the market.
New to owning a boat. Just bought an Alumacraft 16 ft (from my daughter and her husband) with a 2001 Merc Tracker. Motor cranks but won't idle. Boat sat for 7 years. We knew it may not run. Figure it may need a lower oil change, plugs and carburetor clean out. Trying this to see if it helps. Great video, thank you!
Thanks and your welcome!
Thanks Lonnie, my 03 60 HP Merc was missing. Thanks to your video I had the info needed to pull and clean the carbs. Following your instructions it went perfect. Motor runs great now. I did replace the filter also. Thanks Again!
Thomas Briggs Sr I have a 50hp (2004) and i was wanting to change the fuel filter where is it located. Boat runs great now but looking at preventative maintenance. Thanks in advance.
Great video mate it saved me a lot of money it took little over two hours and motor runs better than ever great job cheers.
+Alex Almagro Cool, thanks!
Excellent video. I will use it as reference this weekend when I rebuild the carbs on my 2002 60hp Mercury Bigfoot. Thanks for posting this tutorial.
Thanks! glad to help
I too am just getting ready to rebuild my carbs on my 02 60hp 2 stroke B.F. The video makes it look so easy. Did you run into any issues and did it fix your problems? Hit me with an e-mail if possible at donahueb0047@yahoo.com Thanks
great video, but you engine should turn 5000-5500 rpm's..so you need a prop of at least two sizes smaller pitch..(so say if its a 12 pitch you need a 10 pitch..
Thank you, need to do it in a 90 HP, same carburetors. Very good video.
I found this video helpful, However, the normal RPMS at WOT for that engine is 5500.
If it does not reach that you may have some other problems.
Great job, very informative video! I have the 75 HP version and two of the carb floats are stuck so I need to do the same job.
Very well done video!!! Now I feel confident to do it my self. Thanks
Your welcome
I TRIED TO DO IT AGAIN SIR / WISH ME LUCK FISHING WITH OTHERS SOMETIMES IS NOT MY CHOICE JUST SAYING . LOVE YOU VIDEO WILL KEEP SUPPORTING . THANKS FOR YOUR HELP .ARMY STRONG .
You're welcome and thanks.
Great video. Those damn kits are $50/ea now!!
Thanks and Wow!!! unbelievable.
No. Not just the gasket kits. They’re about 10 bucks or so.
that motor should be running 5000 to 5500 rpms. really good job on the carbs. I'd look into a lower pitch for your prop.
+wd9581 I got the stock prop on it and I 'm getting 5500 rpm and 19 to 20 mph tops.
Mellow is the word of day
Cool!!
I was just wondering about that metal washer in my kit. I guess that's for a different carb. I cleaned mine. Was able to get it off the trailer now but can't go full throttle. I guess I'm going to clean it again and replace the hoses.
Also check your primer bulb, fuel pump and filter if you haven't already.
Thanks Lonnie! Great video. 🤘🏼🇺🇸🦅
Cool, thanks!
Wow, amazing video. I took my bass tracker out the other day with old gas in it. Put super unleaded and thought I would be ok. I could not get my boat to plain out. Do you think it is a carb problem or filter or spark plug?
How is the motor acting at full throttle
Really nice vid Lonnie - appreciated. Have the same motor and will attempt the same carb kit maintenance. I see oil leakage from each of my gaskets and oil has accumulated in the bottom of the motor housing. I hope replacing the gaskets solves this issue. The motor also idles a bit rough and stalls out occasionally at low rpm. Also, wanted to ask if you have ever had an issue with a "phantom" trim up? Mine has this issue intermittently. It trims up by itself. I assume a wiring issue, but can't find it. Note I disconnected all switches and the problem still persisted so I've concluded it's not a bad switch. Was hoping you may have some insight. Thanks again.
This issue are related to the relay trim. Sometimes, with the bounsing, the olds relays close the contacts.
Lonnie. Where did you purchase the carburetor kits from and is there a part number for the kits.
Bass Pro shops service center is where I purchased my parts but you should be able to search google with your model # and find the parts you need. There's lots of model #'s so you need to get the right parts for your model#.
Preciate you my friend!
Glad to help.
very good walk thorough video, best one ive seen.
Thanks!
thanks for posting. helped me alot
great video!! that motor sounds awesome!!!
Look into the oil injection delete kit it will save your motor once that gear fails no oil in gas no lubricantion
Thanks for the info. I have a beeper that sounds if it's not getting oil to the motor.
Thanks, Lonnie, for a great video and explanation. Can I ask - are these float chamber draining screws I see on the starboard sides near the bottom of each carb? I've been told that my engine's rough running is due to water in the fuel and that this has ended up in the carbs - will draining from these screws along with some fresh fuel (in a clean tank!) do the job? Would you recommend an additive to the fuel - I understand there are some that will mix any remaining water droplets in to the petrol and allow it to be burned off? Thanks
Don Mack Yes, sometimes you can open the drain screws and get the water out but you have to put a rag under the carbs to catch whatever comes out. what I do all the time is use 89 octane because 87 has more water in it. I also use Sea Foam: it works really well.
***** Thank you - really appreciated. Thinking through how a 2-stroke gets its fuel, would water in the carb also end up in the crankcase and - if so - would it tend to clear itself in time, or could this remain an issue? Or does everything in the crankcase ultimately end up getting pumped into the cylinders?!
Don Mack The water should be expelled out the exhaust. I think the water would have to get pass the rings to get into the crankcase. I have never had that issue.
***** Thank you.
Freakn Awesome Brother Great Job
Thanks...
Lonney, shouldn't you have measured and adjust the high of the floater after changing the small gasket? I did exact what you posted, very well explained, thanks.
+Florencio Fontecilla Never had to changed anything because everything was still good with the settings, just a good cleaning and new gaskets.
Hi Lonnie. Thanks for your answer. I did same thing guided by your video and SURPRISE !!!! the engine started at the first touch of the key. I have had a little trouble synchronizing the 3 carbs, but is a minor detail. Thanks again for your lecture.
Same thing is wrong with my 50 mer..Can you tell me where did you get the gaskets from?
Hi, I noticed in this video your carburetors were missing some screws on the top of the carb next to the idle screw. I have a 100 Mariner with four carbs. My bottom two had the second screw installed, the top two did not. Are they supposed to be in on all carbs? It is hard to imagine a threaded hole should not get the screw provided in the rebuild kit. Can anyone tell me about these?
Great vid. I have the exact same engine and I've let it sit for a couple of years. Are there any adjustments (lean/rich) that need to be messed with after this process? It was running well when it last ran. Thanks. Jimmy.
Jimmy Kipper You shouldn't have to adjust anything if the motor was running good before hand. You might want to try some Sea-Foam before you spend any $$ for parts. Sea-Foam cleans carbs very well.
Thx
did you have to buy one kit per carb, or does one kit cover all three carbs
good video but at some point u had to adjust your mixture screws?
Well done and very informative. Thanks.
Thank you, Mr. Johnson. I have the 2003 40 HP of this motor, and that is exactly what mine is doing. It starts out fine, then drops to about half power or less at full throttle. When I push the enrich button at the key, it revs for a second or two, then goes back down. Has this fix lasted for you?
It's still working.
Great help and great video. thanks
Hey Lonnie did you have to re sync your carbs afterwards?
Mega Bass No, as long as you don't make any adjustments to the carburetors you shouldn't have any problems. All your doing is cleaning and replacing gaskets.
I have this same motor and it won't stay running unless I keep priming it and when I can get it running when I gear I only have half power of that what was the running issues with this motor before carb rebuild
That's what my motor did so this is how I fixed it. Did you fix it?
@@LonnieJohnson1 not yet ordered my gaskets so I'm hoping because it just won't stay running unless I continually push key to choke to keep running
Sounds like it's not getting fuel.
Is there a place you bought this carb kit you could tell me? And, can you get a kit for all three, or do you have to buy three separate kits?
I purchased the kit from the Bass pro Marine Center and it included parts for all three carbs.
Thanks this help a lot
This is a great video. I'm having the same issue but because of ethanol eating the lining out of my fuel lines on a Mer. 40 HP 2 stroke. Motor would idle 30-40 seconds and die unless pushing elec choke. Would run top speed and die. Fuel lines were collapsing and I'd limp back to the docks. Rebuilt fuel pump today but no difference. Tomorrow I'm doing the carb. This really made me think I can do this. Is there anything I need to do special with the needle valve and that spring that has the pin going through on the float?. Does a needle valve come with the rebuild kit? Excellent video.
Thanks...if it was running good before it started failing, then you shouldn't have to change anything, just clean it really good. Let me know how it turns out?
Blowing out lines today in the 98 degree heat. Rebuilt fuel pump and had carb off and was clean at dealer. Gotta be some grit in a fuel line some where
Have you changed all the full lines?
Everything from the tank to motor and blew out all lines under the cowl..It's running now and better and quieter than it has for years. Dumped the fuel filter on the engine a few times because of grit and fuel line. Pumped abut a pint of gas through it. Low speed RPMs good and full bore is smooth and as fast as you can expect for a 40HP. Again thanks for the Video it helped me get everything tore down myself.
Hi Lonnie:
First , awesome video, super helpful.
I have the exact same engine , a 2005 Mercury 50 hp 2-stroke. I have a similar problem where I have the boats at full throttle and it is only going 10 mph. I posted a few videos on my youtube page if you want to see exactly what it the engine is doing.
I am trying to see if it maybe something else but I have the feeling it is the carbs.
My question to you is this, I am not very mechanical however I can do the basic stuff. That said , i just bought my boat and don't have another $500 to have carbs done. Do you think that cleaning the carbs myself is doable?
I guess what I am trying to say is can I clean them myself without doing more damage and get it done right by watching your video.
Let me know what you think.
Thank you!!
Thanks. It 's very doable. Clean the carbs and change the gaskets. You don't have to pull the jets just spray them with carb cleaner. It's not that bad and save yourself $500 to spend on something else. Let me know how your doing.
LonnieJohnson1 ok - I may have some more questions for u as this issue moves forward. This weekend I am going to try the bulb and see if that helps and check the gas vent.
If no luck - it's on to the carbs.. gulp!!!
My pump ball was falling apart on the inside. You might want to replace it if its been on there a while. As it flakes apart it will go through the filter and clog up your gas lines. My primer ball was 12 years old, spongy and rotten on the inside.
LonnieJohnson1 I meant to ask you, have you had a chance to look at any of my videos?
I posted a bunch of videos showing what my engine acting up and it may help show the problem.
Let me know if you have any idea what you think my problem might be?
I have a few specific questions, can you please email me at jrbz88@yahoo.com
What happens if the gaskets between carb and black and Carb and inlet are bad ? Harder to start , engine doesn’t idle good or cuts out cold ? I see a spall gap in one of these on my Mariner
It will suck air and not run good. Hard to start, not idle smooth and will not speed up.
Pulling the carbs off tomorrow on my 60
I did the same rebuild on a 90 Mercury. Everything went fine and now it has a fairly high idle. I didn't adjust any idle screws so I'm not sure why it would idle higher now. I noticed that you didn't adjust or check the float levels and no sync or idle mix adjust after. Are these required steps post rebuild for this engine?
If it ran good before u cleaned the carbs then it should run the same after with no adjustments. The idle is easy to adjust if u think it needs adjusted down a little.
Tyler Smith it is cleaner mean more gas more powers simple
Do you have the part number of the seals and where did you got them
I got them from Bass Pro Shop marine dealer but they needed my model and serial# to get the right parts. They told me there's lots of different 50hp models that take different parts. You can probably google your model# and see what parts pop up.
I am looking to go through our carbs on the exact same engine. 2006 50HP. But I am having a difficult time trying to figure out what kit you went with. Did you use the Mercury Repair Kit #823635 4? If this is not the kit, can you supply the one you did use? Thanks for the helpful video.
I can't find the package... I took my model # to the parts store and got the kit for the Mercury 50hp outboard.
Thank you for the reply. Looking at the 6:00 mark it looks like I have the same gasket kit as well. The repair kit comes with the gaskets, along with springs and needles which is more than what is needed for a simple carb cleaning. I will be cleaning them this week, thanks again for the great video on for our little engines!!
Your welcome...
This video you posted was a GREAT tool, thanks again. We just purchased this boat with this engine. Not only was it the first time I worked on it, it was also our first outboard. And little projects like this can turn disastrous if something is missed or broken, and you posting this video made the project extremely simple without a learning curve that usually results in broken parts for me.
Glad to help...
Where is the rich lean adjustment screw on a 2004 mercury 25hp 2 stroke carb and how should it be set?
pierce thorpe I do not have a 25hp Mercury to look at, sorry. I do know if you run your engine too lean you will lock it up.
hi, my carb/air box missing the top gasket looks like that is where the problem is what is that rubber gasket part number
I would need your model # to find the right part.
@@LonnieJohnson1 1B002817/2005/
Why didnt you do the most important thing like " Clean The Jets " ???? Replacing gaskets is not cleaning / rebuilding the carbs.
143Chippy Because this wasn't a rebuild on the carbs. video I just clean them and replaced the gaskets, that's all they needed. Wasn't nothing wrong with the jets, they were working fine. Why??? Do you have bigger issues with your carbs?
@@LonnieJohnson1 those "carburetor drain screws" allow access to the jets without removing the carburetor.
On the inside there is also jets that have to be cleaned. It is best to be sure you get them all clean or you will have to take it apart again.
I have the same motor u had. But i had a hard time start it up. Do I have to clean up the cab. Like u did to make it start easier? If u have any info please lmk.....thx.
Here is what I do. If its been sitting for a while drain the gas from the pump ball line before connecting it to the motor. If you have a hard time starting it spray some WD-40 into the intake and it should start. Put some Sea Foam in your gas tank, it works great. Hope this helps.
I'll try that this wkend n let u know....thx.
Mine has a hard time starting too what I do is tilt the engine down choke it and give it rpm to start it
hi , nice video , what is the parts number of that kit /were did you purchase it , thanks
I purchased it at the Bass Pro Shop service center but you should be able to get a kit at any marine service center or from an online parts dealer. I used the # from the motor so they could get me the right kit. Here's a link marineengine.com
thanks for sharing.
I have a question that if I would like to use premix fuel rather than using autolube one, how to do it?
It is possible to disconnect the oil injector and buzzer then premix your own fuel. You will have to call a marine service center to find out what the oil gas ratio is for the motor that you have.
Thanks for your help :)
I actually have that exact same motor.
Easy motors to work on in my opinion.
Got the same one cleaned my now i can not stop them leaking i was told my float was to high .fixed that still leaking is there a gas regulator on this motor .my carburetors have the number on them
It would have to be the floats. Only a filter and a fuel pump.
@@LonnieJohnson1 thanks , i changed the filter when i rebuild them , i will check the fuel pump next .
Is this process the same for a 2000?
Do you have to sync the carbs together like dual webers on a VW?
No
do you have a video to set those float / i put my float even with the carburetor still leaking got new pins /float / rebuild kit gaskets .wish you was close to me i would pay you/thanks for your help .
Where is it leaking from?
@@LonnieJohnson1 looks like from the bowl , do you put a tie down on that middle carb. that has that plastic outlets on it
I put cable ties on all my hoses.
DO YOU KNOW THE PARTS number for that filter box my rubber seals need replaceing
You have to go by the model# on your motor to get the right part.
@@LonnieJohnson1 model #1B002817/2005/50ELPTO WHAT WEBSITE YOU ORDER FROM
www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/1B002817/1050412DD/11493_120
How was it running before you rebuilt them any sputtering
Had no take off or speed. Would not throttle up.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I have a 50 2 stroke and it loads up on fuel and sputters at low idle speed say 3mph
Does it die when you push the throttle forward to take off.
@@LonnieJohnson1 no it goes but it also loads up on fuel
I would also check the fuel pump because my neighbors 60hp Mercury did what yours is doing and it turned out to be the fuel pump. The pump should be easy to check.
JUST A THAUGHT I CHANGED THE FUEL LINE TO A BLACK AUTOMOTIVE ONE WOULD THAT BE MY PROBLEM
It should work.
Where did you order your carb kits?
I got my parts from Bass Pro Shop Service Center.
@@LonnieJohnson1 Do yopu have the part number because they are sold out, issue with mercury.
very good
Was it 27$ for all three carbs? or 27$ for each carb.
Less than $30 for the kit. The kit covered all three carbs.
Darn, can't find anything that cheap for all 3. Had to drop 27$ each just now.
Mine was $9.80 each. I cleaned mine and replaced all gaskets. Part #1395-811223 1 - Gasket Kit from Marineengine.com
mercury 25 reed valves hou instal ? is not start. with chok only. is reed ?
Could be fuel pump...
Yeah great vid.
part number for the kit?
What is your model# and I will look it up. My model# might not be the same as yours.
Can you fly over to UK and fix mine please?
That would be a little costly.
Еще бы на руском было бы .
It's RPM... NOT RPMs... (The revolutions are plural... NOT the minutes...) Minutes is singular...! ie: the number of revolutions (Multiple) in one (Single) minute... therefore 28 Hundred RPM...!
Really! your joking right?
Stop criticizing people go watch porn hub get your rpms from there
@@LonnieJohnson1 some people just NEED to be right about an insignificant correction. It makes them feel better because they feel they know something the rest of the world doesn't.
I know, right