Brake Job COMPLICATIONS! (Mazda CX5)
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2019
- Just another routine brake job? Not this time!
This 2016 Mazda CX5 throws a curve ball when the electric parking brake gets stuck on after installing new rear rotors and pads.
Enjoy!
Ivan - Авто та транспорт
Hey Ivan I'm a Mazda technician figured I'd throw my two cents in. The Mazda vehicles are some of the few where a scan tool isn't needed and you can do the rear brake job. There is literally no need to use a scan tool. Putting it into maintenance mode is as simple as holding the accelerator all the way down and the park brake button and cycling the ignition until you hear the motors retracting. You'll also see a P! icon in the instrument cluster as well. Then you push the piston straight back. I see lots coming in with the electric motor destroyed because people do not look up the procedure.
Also for anyone reading to talk it out of the maintenance mode it's as simple as pulling up on the park brake button while holding the accelerator all the way down and cycling the ignition 3 times until you hear the motors actuating.
Awesome! Thanks for this! I hope Ivan pins this!
Great info. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for sharing but this is still a stupid idea. Damn you mazda
Knocked it out of the park with this information!!
On the bright side, at least they have maint. mode so we can replace pads without scan tool. But yeah, it`s a stupid idea afterall
When a "simple" brake job isn't so "simple" anymore...lesson learned...thanks for the heads up!!
The thing I like about your videos is that you show some of your mistakes instead of only the successes. That's how we all learn from you. Don't let it get you down, your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks Ivan!
The way I've been doing brake jobs on anything with an electrical parking brake:
1. Un-plug electrical connector
2. Get power probe
3. Use regular NON TWIST IN caliper compressor
4. Apply power to one pin and ground to other.
5. If the Piston begins to retract as you put pressure on it with the tool keep going, if it tries to press against the tool, reverse polarity.
I'm a professional mechanic and have been doing it this way for years and years and have never once run into a problem!
Great tip, thanks for sharing
smart thanks
I hears others say they do it the same way. I agree with your method as others have stated the same thing.
Real man don't read instructions..... At first.... Then it's oh boy I think I broke it , I better read the instructions.😂
When all else fails - read the directions.
One day, I decided to quit being a cave man and do "grown up" things, like reading directions ahead of time. And damn, my life got easier.
Facts
lol lol been there!!
Ivan, thank you for sharing your torment. Your attitude is amazing as are your diagnostic skills! Those who have never learned anything "by fire" apparently have not tried anything beyond their comfort level. Kudos!
Can’t believe you want to charge extra for your mistake
Should of watched SMA on the procedure of electric emergency brake.lol I have no worries you will figure this out! Keep the great videos coming.
These kinds of videos are priceless, Thanks for sharing the struggle giving some of us a heads up about these kinds of emergency brake systems having not had to deal with them yet.
Just read one of Tolstoy's books, War and Peace, whilst viewing your alldata Instructions of the parking brake. Wow.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for posting this as my first time doing the rear brakes on my wife's CX5 pretty much went the same way. If I hadn't come across this, I probably would have been one of those people Mike was talking about. I did have to do the manual release step as I accidentally sent the piston the wrong direction without the brake pads in place and thought I'd really screwed up. With a little patience I was able to get the piston compressed and everything reassembled. The rear driver side went about as quick as the front once I knew how to put it in maintenance mode.
Again, I can't thank you enough for posting this. Very important information!
I did rotors and pads front/rear on my 2017 CX-5, super easy and DIY friendly as long as you do the maintenance mode procedure. I used a twist style compression tool, i put a brake pad between to minimize twisting. You also have to make sure the notch on the piston align with the pin on the brake pad. I saved ~1000 euro doing it myself, parts included.
Ive done so many on vw,jaguars,rovers, fords, Mercedes all using this same design. I remove the motor, spin the spline by hand using a torx bit for example til it stops, the caliper can be pushed in like a normal caliper no twisting required. Very easy, easier than a twist caliper design i think. Activate the e brake a few times and done.
They hire those engineers, so they have to find something for them to do. "Let's screw with the brake system."
Yeah, I figure a lot of this technology that "benefits" us is a make-work project for engineers.
BONUS FOOTAGE... Ivan takes the car to the Mazda dealer and puts his scanner on ebay.
Thumbs up for this one, thanks for walking us through it. I know that feeling, well. Glad to see it isn't only me, even skilled professionals have bad days. It's the price of being a generalist.
Brake jobs go more smoothly if you have a Jeep hat and plenty of brake cleaner
Wtf? A Jeep hat?
@@Peter_Riis_DK Go watch South Main Auto.
I drive a Tacoma...it has rear drum.brakes...are they perfect....well maybe not but it works. Press down on the foot pedal and set...press on foot.pedal and release. People criticize the Tacoma for being old.school...is that really so bad???? Ivan....you are patient to a fault. The fact you don't even say shit is amazing. Your skills are impressive. Pine Hollow Diagnostics....PHD...clever
Agreed, drum rear brakes are a bit of "old school" kit that aren't bad at all. They worked fine for decades. Don't just assume that newer is better!
only for the rear brakes, which are more like 25% of the braking(varies with weight load) it's not very fun with 4 wheel drum, the fronts heat too fast and fade away like mad.
when I was a teen a guy tried to sell me an old F100 to tow my boat with, manual trans and 4 wheel drum brakes, the pig could hardly stop itself with all 4 working perfect and I passed on that truck. I should have bought it, though still thinking back about I was a dumb-dumb and could have easily converted to front disc and it was in fairly good shape for being in Ohio, old guy had it and literally never drove it in winter, his son didn't want it after he passed (thinking about it still makes me kick myself in the nuts)
@@throttlebottle5906 Very true. I knew a guy years ago with a 1970 Dodge something-or-other, can't remember exactly what, but it had 4 wheel drums. It was kind of scary to drive.
Rear discs are superior to drums in every way. More advanced vehicles apply the rear brake before the front to reduce dive (My 2008 VW Golf GTI does it). Try finding a drum brake system with auto adjusters that really work, gotta love the old handbrake cable that stretches and needs constant adjustment, drums fill with water and then don't work just when you need them, etc, etc. Problem is you get people giving advice on how to work on electric park brakes who don't read the manual.
I love that you posted this, great learning experience for you and for us. There's some good info in the comments about the maintenance mode and about using a power probe to drive the motor. I also love some of the hate in the comments. A wise man once told me, "my haters are my strength!"
Keep it up!
Thanks for the motivation, Joe :)
You have to idle it for 24 hrs. Then drive it in reverse for 10 mins at 35mph for it to reset. Goodluck!
A D.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Same procedure for Volkswagen, why not give people technology they want like a huge touchscreen, instead of this shit. STUPID design.
LOL!
I did that. Didn’t fix mine! I now have a sore neck though
@@BOBHANNA01 or how about big buttons and dials I can feel instead of any touchscreen at all
I just did rear brakes on a CX5. UA-cam is a great tool. Every, and I MEAN EVERY video that I watched said to put the rear brakes in maintenance mode. Not doing so would not turn out so well! I guess you proved their point. I also has a Jeep Cherokee with the same procedure. There is a maintenance mode in the settings.
The first mechanic who did my rear brakes didnt perform this procedure and I showed the third this video, but the right wheel still dragging... the car makes a loud noise and the flashing brake light appears on the dashboard after you drive for a while... I cant find someone who can fix this... cheers...
I'm sorry Ivan but i just had to laugh at the end when you finally got it all working correctly. Just dealt with something like this yesterday fixing fuel lines on a old rusted out Chevy truck. Fix one leak and another one starts. Not electric brakes but just the fact when you think something should be so simple it always come back to bite you. Lol good job!
A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to actually read the SI after not finding a release procedure in the scanner's menu, same car and model. Looks like it was worth it to look it up😁.
Ivan, Ivan, Ivan, as Eric O would say, "is this amateur hour " ? You gave me a good chuckle, glad it was you and not me !
Had to smile on this one as soon as you started saying your problem.
I bought an Autel Maxidiag scan tool specifically because it will retract E-Parking brakes. I guess the main reason they switched was to free up console space for the Quick-E-Mart 40 ounce cup holders.
I have the Autel MS906TS when you go under Service/ EPB Mazda wasnt listed. The Mazda Tech above says Mazda is one of the few you dont need a Scan Tool for the procedure. Maybe they have it in the factory tool?
@@ahill007ny it’s not in the mazda factory tool. You just follow the procedure to go into maintenance mode
Thank you for the video it has helped me out a ton...one question though, what is that scan tool you are using?
Spoken like a true mechanic. "This is ridiculous ". "We have to charge extra for this thing."
Awesome video!!! One quick question tho, did you went into maintenance mode to remove the actuator and spin back the caliper spindle? I would first say no and then you play with the spindle to fix the issue but I don’t want to screw this up again.
I like it how you aren't content with just reading the procedure. You keep working with it until you understand HOW it works. I'm the same way with things, if I don't know the fundamentals of how something works I feel like I can't really diagnose with any certainty. Its the same for IT equipment and cars.
Thanks for this! When I did my rear brakes, I KNEW about the procedure and did it and I didn't twist the caliper when I compressed it but it seems that it twisted a little bit anyway. This seems to have caused my EPB to be slightly engaged while the brake was off and I was driving. Needless to say the smell of burning brake pads was overwhelming. I had to take off the right rear caliper and remove the EPB, then turn the caliper bolt in the direction shown in the video in order to align the caliper correctly. After reinstalling everything, the problem was gone! Thanks again.
Thank you for this video watched it a couple of times and wow it saved me $1000 bucks going to the dealership! All because i turned pistons not allowing repair mode to be activated while changing rear breaks. I learned to make sure the peg on the sisk breaks are engaging the piston also make sure your a couple of turns loose on brake calipers so when electric motors on EPB are engaged it takes little effort to engage calipers. When car goes into service mode EPB motors will turn maybe 5 turns to allow room for replacement of old brake pads.
Be well! Each one teach one!
Do you think the parking brake not working correctly is causing the pad wear?
I know on jaguars you have to use the scan tool to put it into brake changing mode so the pistons can be pushed back in I’m assuming its the same for most cars
I should have watched this yesterday. Thanks for the walk through
I’ve learned on newer vehicles, even if someone wants an air filter changed, I ALWAYS check the service info before giving a price!
Smart person!
not sure if I caught beginning right...could you disconnect battery while p. brake was disengaged than do brake pads?
Hi brother, what is your scanner, is it smartphone equip with some device?
Did you try a different scanner?
I feel your pain Ivan! I had a Ford fusion prior to buying the Launch Diag 4, & only had my Snap-On Solus Ultra (13.2) updated. Thanks GOD for Identifix cause i did read the procedure & found that on-board maintenance mode, followed & had no issue! Thanks to Eric O (S. Main Auto) Keith (New Level Auto), & you (Pine Hollow Diagnostics) using & reviewing this advanced, affordable, professional, scanner cause i own it & it paid for itself right out the gate. I'm getting higher end work now & my reputation is growing in my community as a mobile diagnostic professional. Best DIY/Professional videos around between y'all 3.
Thanks Mel,hope X431 diagun IV help you a lot in future.
That's awesome, Mel! Glad to hear your business is going well!
Educating the educated. RTM, As usual, a good teaching video.
thanks for the video now i know what to watch out for if i run into one of these
i need parking brake school? my first on a jeep ut to rescue went through dash maint mode. fly by wire brakes crazy!! tanks for the heads up!!
what happens if you jack it up have it running release the e brake .can you then change the pads
Mate you are a legend you saved me
From a massive headache
Credit to this guy, he's entertaining and charismatic. He did show some really useful tips.
Whoever you, if you read this....it'd be cool if you did a full tear-down on one of those mazda epb calipers.
Hey Ivan, what software/ diagnostic tool are you using?
Very good information as always .thanks
Can you use 12v to active the motor to release the brakes ??
What is the torque specs for the caliper mounting bracket ?? And for the caliper ??
I feel your pain man. Did you finally solve it?
Sorry for your frustrations but the entertainment value here was through the roof.
What is the point of electronic parking brakes? I just don't get it.
More crap to go bad.
My understanding on those is prior to starting the rear brakes, you must engage maintenance mode. Then, one completed with the brake work, disable maintenance mode and all if well. I'm only guessing that Maint Mode simple rotates the motor enough to a preset position so the calipers can be removed. I have to wonder though, if the vehicle is on a steep incline/decline, is that electric motor going to have enough squeeze on the rotor to prevent it from turning? Just how tight does that "Parking Brake" really get on the rotor? Another thing, likely you can't engage it with the car moving so to me thats a defect compared to the mechanical designs. Seems at times the operator of the vehicle would like to engage the brakes for various reasons yet this system may not allow that. Just like the start stop features on new vehicles today, I wouldn't be trusting that idea near a RxR crossing or when off the pavement on dirt roads etc. There are times when brake, engine power and so forth are desired to help get out of situations etc. while not on a paved road in a "perfect world". More about those systems need studied to examine just what some of the negatives amount to.
Just a heads up, something that caught me. The brake pads have a pin on them that locate them into the slots on the caliper piston. If you previously turned the piston, and didnt get it back to 12" oclock position before you re assembled it with the pads, you could have smashed the pin with the piston, making it mushroom out, and then still not fit correctly once you rotate the piston to the correct position. This is what bit me in the ass. I swapped the pad with the smooshed pin to the outside of the rotor and vice versa, made sure the piston was oriented correctly, and BOOM, working brakes.
So I did the same mistake as you but now I am having issues with the brakes dragging and it doesn't happen all the time. Did I mess up my caliper?
Ivan they can't even leave the brakes alone. For some reason everything has to be electronic. Everything has to be made so complicated. Good video👍👍👍
Dude, this helped alot! Thank you
We will tell our children stories of a time when we could fix our own cars. R.I.P. DIY
Dude it’s a an electric parking brake. Not Tesla lmao
The rule I follow is to look up info first if there is any form of electric parking brake, that being said, my advice isn't going to help people without access to the information. Glad you got yourself out of a pickle, Ivan. 👍
Electric parking brakes. Screw that.
The thing that upsets me about these new E-brake systems is that it's either ON or OFF, no modulation in-between. Definitely a big step back in terms of safety!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics But.,.. But... But... It's new! It MUST be better! (Can you feel the sarcasm?)
Yeah, f that. Can you apply it while driving? I've completely lost brakes before and got home with the parking brake.
@@volvo09
You haven't tried it yourself? Do it - I dare you. ;)
Parking brakes are only good on manual vehicles anyways. Here in Michigan, NO ONE uses parking brakes. The ones on my Trailblazer rusted away and fell off and had never ever been used. I refused to replace them. What for?
Your movie was very helpful and I solved the problem
Thanks
Mazda tech here too. Just turn the piston about three times without pressure then push it back the tool. Always turn the piston without pressure and its goes back very easy.
Or maintenance mode as described in other posts.
Sure it's easy when you follow the procedure. But most newer cars have these electronic e-brakes. Is the procedure standard for all of them? Most of them? Any of them? How many procedures are there? Seems technicians will be spending more time doing research then actually fixing anything. I realize this is due to government regulations but does it make the car safer? Is it more likely to have the rear brakes replaced when the car is older? I don't know what value all of this additional complexity and potential points of failure provide to the consumer.
There are different procedures to retract the P-Brake depending on the make. This isn't the government in this case it is the makers themselves, technically the electronic P-Brake was a violation of the laws requiring a separate mechanical braking system, but they got it slipped into the newer laws as acceptable.
Having this Issue. I put the car in maintenance mode clean disc pad never need to change they got alot of meat left. Then trynna take car out of maintaince mode. I heard the rotors going back in place however car stick in maintenance mode but stil drivr. When using ebrake only the right side locked. Any help?
Ya, charge your customer double then give them a 50% discount. 🤑
How much are those actuators
Hey, so I’ve got the exact same problem in the shop at the moment, exact same fault codes and drivers side won’t disengage. Have removed the motor from the caliper and wound 2 times but still nothing, any other recommendations by any chance?
I’m having the same problem I started the job at 3:30pm is now 1:00am and I can’t figure it out
They are all going that way Ivan. I work at a Ford, Land Rover, Jaguar dealer and all use this system. Land Rover has been using it since 2012. Most manufacturers have a manual way of releasing so you don't need a scan tool.
Ivan, not sure you will ever see this but I am having the same problem...kind of. Here is what's different. I can get the EPB to engage when the vehicle is running, but will not disengage while the vehicle remains on (engine running). Hopefully you are following me. Bare with me. If I turn the vehicle off and then restart the vehicle, I am able to disengage the EPB and the vehicle can be driven. The brake light on the cluster goes out too when I do this. I am completely at a loss here. Any ideas? I do not have a scanner FYI. HELP!!! I Can still drive the vehicle daily as the brakes work just fine. Its the EPB that's is not behaving.
Ivan we in the third world countries we usually disconnect connector from the motor and use the power probe and apply direct voltage to see which direction the piston moved by reversing polarity you'll see the piston moves opposite direction
Just did a Jeep Cherokee today. You can enter brake maintenance mode right from the cluster. When u do it retracts the motors. Then u just push the piston back in. Don’t turn just push. Install ur brakes. Then pump up the pedal, activate the parking brake a few times to verify it works correctly and ur done! A lil more work but all in all pretty easy job!
It would have made more sense for the EPB systems to be in retracted mode anytime they're not being actively used. They can then auto adjust to the piston position when engaged or when the car is in motion (because this is both your parking brake and your emergency brake).
I would guess some EPB systems are probably "always on unless disengaged", meaning they only release when in Drive, Reverse, or you've selected "Disengage".
The motor is pretty slow, so a full retraction and extension would mean a lot longer to engage and disengage the EPB. This would also increase the motor wear and tear quite a bit. As it is, the motors only retract a couple of turns to return the brake function to the hydraulic system, leaving them close to the piston when it's time to apply the EPB again. I see why they do it this way.
I would start over put it in service mode. Push both Pistons back in. Toss scanner off to the side. It appears that the two actuators are not in sync. One side is being applied and the other side was released. Good work though man nice video.
Don't worry Ivan. I forgive you. We all make mistakes.
my rear caliper is stucked and the system is overheating. ive heard its a common problem of cx5.. 300 € is price for a new OEM one.. OMG after 5 years such a problem ?
I think I prefer the handbrake on my old Morris Minor, a little while back :)
Ivan! You weren't clear how exactly you reset it. How far to turn the actuator bolt?
I just kept messing with it until it was happy...no rhyme or reason!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thanks for following up! It must have been like grandma's recipes.. Just keep adding stuff til it tastes good.. No measuring ingredients and no real recipe to go from haha
Are we watching Scotty Kilmer? "Old stuff is better"
Great video
Hi there, I have the same problem, I just wanted to ask you if this is the procedure to fix the problem
1. Put the car into brake maintance mode,
2. Take of the actuator and disconect it of the conector
3. Turn the litle spindle on the caliper clockwise to pull the piston all the way back
4. Take the car out of brake maintenance mode until the actuator is removed and disconected
5. Conect the actuator to the conector but dont put it back to the caliper,
6. Put the car in maintenance mode so that the actuator spins freely till fully open,
7. Put the actuator back on the caliper and take the car out of brake maintance mode,
8. Erase the errors on the OBD and see if the parking brake work properly.
Hi Bro , your video saved my life :) i was in trouble with my epd after replaced the pads in maintenance mode. I spinned the piston instead of push it and after maintenance it was impossible to get out off the maintenance mode.
I ve read a lot of thing on the web and was prepared to lose 3K euros lol but , I tried what you did on your viedo and that worked so thank you man , if you come in France contact me :)
You buy all the fancy documation and tools then fail to use them and call the system crazy. Maybe use all the stuff you have access to.😀
Man that was cold. Completely accurate, but COLD, REALLY COLD.
@@satamanschmidt3428 sorry don't mean to be cold as I am usually in awe of his thought process. But if he would have just followed the instructions it would have just been push the calipers in.
For once, I agree with the dissenting opinions here. I mean, we're all guilty of breezing past service procedures at some point, but it's surprising Ivan would jump the gun on a job like this. This is one of the few cars you don't need a scanner to retract the electronic parking brake. If I see an electronic parking brake, I follow service procedure exactly and I haven't had any trouble thus far.
Seems you don’t need a scan tool, unlike the VW I had (Passat) where you had to go through a pita procedure with a scan tool and have a battery charger connected to carry out maintenance, however a seized calliper still managed to throw what seemed a very simple motor setup into overdrive, then the button broke locking them on- which without the scan tool would have meant having to get it recovered. My next car had a ‘hand’ brake! These things are great and convenient when working, but a few years and mileage soon mess that up.
Why extra labor $ for your mistake?
Golden rule with EPBs is to check the procedure on tech data before starting the job.
Plenty of people fall into the trap but I guess that you learn by your mistakes.
I'm wondering why you didn't just try sticking it in maintenance mode and then taking back out. I wouldn't be surprise if leaving maintenance mode runs a calibration. Seems like it would be a lot less effort than taking everything back apart.
Would applying power to the motor directly not back it off?
sure would, but it wont make it reset the position to work again. pretty much have to do the chicken dance service mode for it to run them long enough to apply and have feedback of current increase within x seconds or it assumes there's an issue and it's not applying. when it release it only jogs them back roughly two to three turns, so as to not pull the piston notch off the pad pin and start rotating the piston around, like he demonstrated playing and learning lol.
@@throttlebottle5906 gotcha, it would lose its learned position....
Just like a VW. My daughters 2013 CC was pretty easy with a scanner. Service section. Retract E Parking brake. Heard both retract. Changed rotor / pads. Pushed reset E Brake and both motors closed onto the rotor and then released slightly. I agree with you in that no one should need a scanner to change out brakes. Crazy. I'm sure though it saved VW money and a precious few oz's of weight for the blessed MPG Gods..
The Passat - and other VW makes - feature notched pistons, suggesting you would have to twist them back in after releasing the e-brake. In the tool set there is no insert that fits into the notch pattern. Guess what, you push on them straight and they'll retract.
it only backs off a small amount so it doesn't disengage the brake pad pin from piston slot and start rotating.
With the launch you need to go into the reset menu and select epb and then the manufacturer and you will find the options for retracting the calipers.
I kind of liked the older drum in disc style, reliable and serviceable, sure you had to pull on the handle or step on a pedel, I guess that's too much trouble nowadays
Those things are dinky...parking brake never holds well. I'll take real rear drums any day of the week :)
My brake job complication was due to a major parts chain selling me a passenger side caliper in driver side box. Foolish me I never checked the part against the original. The caliper went on great...just the bleed valve is upside down.....I confess it took me a good long while before I noticed the issue, while I was trying to troubleshoot why the brake pedal was suddenly all mushy.
Brill video as always
Yep..Same as the Range Rover Evoque and others...The song and dance you have to perform is insane.!...Maintenance mode and service should be accessible via a scanner as they want you scan it first anyway...Just sayin'...Soon as I saw the pin on the outer pad I called incorrect placement...Inner pad has pin to locate in the piston and stop it from turning...
A bit off Topic but beware aftermarket front rotors for a 2012 and perhaps other years, Kia Soul. After 3 sets we found new ones have Rotor thickness 0.100" too thick and the bracket will not go on. OEM was. 0.925", aftermarket 1.025"
So the purpose of doing it this way is to use the existing calipers and pad for your Ebrake I guess? There still must be redundancy when driving to apply Ebrake too...
I accidentally took the caliper off then I put it in service mode and the piston is fully extended and stuck that way now. I can't push the caliper back in with the regular no turning piston tool. Brake fluid came squirting out. Did I damage the emergency brake motor
I just did this too! Were you able to fix it? I'm stuck!
@@jasondonovan1408 no get it towed to Mazda. You need a new caliper and it has to be computer programmed by Mazda. Good luck.
@@denp28 C'mon man. There are no electronics in the caliper. Why try to mess with people? :P
A few years back, I read where guys would pull the plug on the electric brake and using jumpers, cycle the brake that way. Then reset the system . I havent done a parking brake job on our Subaru system yet. I wouldnt never charge extra for something I did. Its called learning. Sometimes it can cost you. I ALWAYS read up on anything I am not familure with, especially electric brakes. Yes, you can do the brakes without a scanner. Its called jumper wires. Think old school. One thing I learned reguarding electrical components. Positive is always positive and negative is always negative. No you dont have to do any fancy stuff.
At 6:17 you said you would charge extra. Why would you charge the customer anything extra? You clearly stated it was something you messed up on. this is what really hurts us techs. I know this job is taking more of your time and you are having to remove parts you normally wouldn't. You can't charge a customer for lack of knowledge or training. This is where you take as a self training exercise so you won't have this issue next time. Don't take it wrong your a good tech and I enjoy watching yours and other UA-camrs channels.
Good point...
But are the scheduled work hours on an ebrake longer or equal to traditional parking brakes?
@@chiluco2000 The tech taking on the job should know that information and take it into consideration when quoting the job. In this case the tech presumed it would be just like most other rear brake jobs and got burned. I agree with lee minnis, the tech shouldn't charge the customer extra time to learn what the customer likely assumes they already know when entrusting them with the job in the first place.
In other scenarios where a job overruns due to unforeseeable issues - e.g. finding further broken parts upon disassembly of that quoted for or having to repair some previous asshat's damage to threads that now need helicoiling etc. - then fine, let the customer know and charge extra. But that's not learning, it's just unforeseeable - well, actually it's probably foreseeable that 'something' along those lines could occur so the customer ought to be appraised of that possibility when given the quote. I'm sure it's probably a typical T&C clause when quoting.
While you are correct I believe ivan made that comment off hand. I think he meant charge more initially for the job. When I have something go wrong I go into oh shit mode and it's hard to tell what I would say.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah I agree. It’s wrong to charge them extra for your mess up. It’s not their fault. I wouldn’t pay you no extra lol