if you really want to shave with it, sharpness of cutting paper will not do. It must be able to "pop" free standing hair. For this, you need at least 8000 grit stone plus a polishing compound of known grit. Some polishing compounds are a lot coarser than 8000 grit. And as a last note, your razor is too big to be useful for shaving. The cutting length of 7.5cm is the norm, width no more than 2.5cm, 2cm or less is better. Classical German makers usually made their blades width between 5/8" to 6/8" range.
I use old files sometimes but your wet n dry honing does not work.it only goes up to 2000 grit and final honing needs to be around 8000grit minimuim. Stropping is ok but you might like to try a mdf wheel with the same polishing compound. Also the ONLY test of sharpness is to shave with it. A butter knife can be sharpened good enough to cut paper like that.
Oh I wished there was some commentary and the action a bit slower but fascinating all the same how did you finally tempeer the finished product and the what temp/colour??
hi John, at 3.42 I take it to temperature checking with a magnet even though you do not see it on the video, then quenching it in oil, for heat treatment in the oven at 200c - 392f. I do not follow the color system as it may vary too much depending on the lighting. will take into consideration your wish for commentary in future videos. I think you will like this video to ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
this was a good grind job but you let yourself down on establishing an edge. very rough. also it was not sharp enough. the finest you could pissible get with your method was 2000 grit and that is only just a roughing in grit for an edge. you need at least an 8k or even better 10k grit for final sharpen then stropping. also you dont mix compiunds on the same strop-grit hygene. you need about 1 micron or preferably 1/2 micron for stropping compund. the hair on your arm must "JUMP" off in fright when presented to the edge. the only true test is to shave with it and this blade will be as effective on your face as a surform
The problem with making a razor from a file is that most files now are not made from hardened tool steel. They are stamped and ground out of mild steel, and case hardened. I believe some older U.S. made Nicholson files are of suitable steel, but just run of the mill old files, that's a crap shoot. You never know what you're gonna get. A spark test of a sample from the interior of the file will tell the story. You can still make a perfectly usable razor out of a file, but it takes a lot of extra work. Case hardening deeply into the steel basically turns the entire billet, at least down to a certain depth, into high carbon steel. Not actually tool steel, since there is no moly, chrome, nickel, etc in the alloy to speak of, but at least it is high carbon steel and can be hardened to better than 58RC. Not too shabby. To deeply case harden, you simply maintain critical temp in the carbon pack for several hours instead of the more typical hour or less. The longer it is kept at critical within the carbon pack, the deeper the infusion of carbon into the steel. If you are not familiar with case hardening, you can probably find some youtube vids on it. I was taught to make charcoal from scrap leather in a welded shut enclosure with a tiny pinhole in a charcoal fire to exclude oxygen but allow outgassing. Then the charcoal is ground and mixed with a binder such as flour and made into a paste, and the steel is packed inside it and placed in another air tight enclosure with a pinhole, and brought up to critical in a forge heated preferably by acetylene burned just a little rich, keeping the oxygen down so that the forge reaches critical, but it is a carburizing rather than oxidizing environment. I saw a vid where the casing for the case hardening was made of clay. You could probably use refractory cement, I don't know. But a steel square tube with caps welded to the ends most definitely works. Anyway, this would greatly improve the final quality of a razor made from a file. However, after pricing 1095, W2, O1, or other popular alloys, you will probably decide that it is better to just buy the right steel rather than go through the PITA of case hardening to get a steel "almost" as good as modern tool steel. Annealed tool steel is a joy to work with, and the above named steels are very forgiving, easy to heat treat and quench and temper with satisfying results, even your first time at bat, if you do your homework. I will leave your grinding alone because skill and knowledge will come, with education and experience. Keep at it. It just gets better and better.
hi luca, sory for the delay on the reply. it did kind of worked, in this case was more of a show piece, was too big to be able to shave. i ill be making number 2 soon and then i ill shave whith it. stay tune
Любой заточник скажет что кромка напрочь говно, и бриться такой бритвой нельзя. Можно было бы взять шлифовальный круг меньшего диаметра и сделать лялю. Или просто имея ровные руки сделать лялю, тобишь хорошую бритву
Je n'ai pas les compétences pour juger du travail, mais j'apprécie beaucoup l'effort de la présentation en français qui manifestement n'est pas votre langue maternelle. Un complément d'information, "lime" est du genre féminin donc ce sera "d'une ancienne lime" dans le titre. La langue française est bien compliquée, c'est pourquoi, au risque de me répéter, je salue votre effort.
Amazing! Oh maan,thank you for the great vid!!
Thank you for the great comment. Inspiring.
Stay tuned for the 2.0 razor video coming out this week!
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
if you really want to shave with it, sharpness of cutting paper will not do. It must be able to "pop" free standing hair. For this, you need at least 8000 grit stone plus a polishing compound of known grit. Some polishing compounds are a lot coarser than 8000 grit. And as a last note, your razor is too big to be useful for shaving. The cutting length of 7.5cm is the norm, width no more than 2.5cm, 2cm or less is better. Classical German makers usually made their blades width between 5/8" to 6/8" range.
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
Hi cus im gonna be the first to coment. I find videos like this interesting and cool
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
J'ai omis le plus important, merci pour le partage des connaissances.
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
hope you like the 2.0 razor , please give feed back. thank you
Did you hollow grind both sides
I use old files sometimes but your wet n dry honing does not work.it only goes up to 2000 grit and final honing needs to be around 8000grit minimuim.
Stropping is ok but you might like to try a mdf wheel with the same polishing compound.
Also the ONLY test of sharpness is to shave with it.
A butter knife can be sharpened good enough to cut paper like that.
if you add sound it might keep people from moving on as quickly as 5 seconds!
Oh I wished there was some commentary and the action a bit slower but fascinating all the same how did you finally tempeer the finished product and the what temp/colour??
hi John, at 3.42 I take it to temperature checking with a magnet even though you do not see it on the video, then quenching it in oil, for heat treatment in the oven at 200c - 392f. I do not follow the color system as it may vary too much depending on the lighting. will take into consideration your wish for commentary in future videos. I think you will like this video to ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
Man...this is AWESOME and sexy looking straight razor,LOVE IT ! ! !
thank you sir, very encouraging
well done. don't forget to true your grinding stone on the first grinder, its out of balance
thank you, i will
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
How did it shave?
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
Я столько напильников испортил, но нормальной бритвы не получилось:(
this was a good grind job but you let yourself down on establishing an edge.
very rough.
also it was not sharp enough.
the finest you could pissible get with your method was 2000 grit and that is only just a roughing in grit for an edge.
you need at least an 8k or even better 10k grit for final sharpen then stropping.
also you dont mix compiunds on the same strop-grit hygene.
you need about 1 micron or preferably 1/2 micron for stropping compund.
the hair on your arm must "JUMP" off in fright when presented to the edge.
the only true test is to shave with it and this blade will be as effective on your face as a surform
thank you , great incite
The problem with making a razor from a file is that most files now are not made from hardened tool steel. They are stamped and ground out of mild steel, and case hardened. I believe some older U.S. made Nicholson files are of suitable steel, but just run of the mill old files, that's a crap shoot. You never know what you're gonna get. A spark test of a sample from the interior of the file will tell the story. You can still make a perfectly usable razor out of a file, but it takes a lot of extra work. Case hardening deeply into the steel basically turns the entire billet, at least down to a certain depth, into high carbon steel. Not actually tool steel, since there is no moly, chrome, nickel, etc in the alloy to speak of, but at least it is high carbon steel and can be hardened to better than 58RC. Not too shabby. To deeply case harden, you simply maintain critical temp in the carbon pack for several hours instead of the more typical hour or less. The longer it is kept at critical within the carbon pack, the deeper the infusion of carbon into the steel. If you are not familiar with case hardening, you can probably find some youtube vids on it. I was taught to make charcoal from scrap leather in a welded shut enclosure with a tiny pinhole in a charcoal fire to exclude oxygen but allow outgassing. Then the charcoal is ground and mixed with a binder such as flour and made into a paste, and the steel is packed inside it and placed in another air tight enclosure with a pinhole, and brought up to critical in a forge heated preferably by acetylene burned just a little rich, keeping the oxygen down so that the forge reaches critical, but it is a carburizing rather than oxidizing environment. I saw a vid where the casing for the case hardening was made of clay. You could probably use refractory cement, I don't know. But a steel square tube with caps welded to the ends most definitely works. Anyway, this would greatly improve the final quality of a razor made from a file. However, after pricing 1095, W2, O1, or other popular alloys, you will probably decide that it is better to just buy the right steel rather than go through the PITA of case hardening to get a steel "almost" as good as modern tool steel. Annealed tool steel is a joy to work with, and the above named steels are very forgiving, easy to heat treat and quench and temper with satisfying results, even your first time at bat, if you do your homework.
I will leave your grinding alone because skill and knowledge will come, with education and experience. Keep at it. It just gets better and better.
awesome awesome comment, thank you
i think you may like this video ua-cam.com/video/pA8wqKc9uKA/v-deo.html
Good work mate.....it work? I would be very curious to know it.....a little bit curious!!!! I wait for your reply.....
hi luca, sory for the delay on the reply. it did kind of worked, in this case was more of a show piece, was too big to be able to shave. i ill be making number 2 soon and then i ill shave whith it. stay tune
ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
hi Luca here it is the 2.0 razor to see it go wait to the last 5 secs of the video
Любой заточник скажет что кромка напрочь говно, и бриться такой бритвой нельзя. Можно было бы взять шлифовальный круг меньшего диаметра и сделать лялю. Или просто имея ровные руки сделать лялю, тобишь хорошую бритву
Мастер класс!
Too long and bulky. The edge is not sharp enough. You can see it from video. You should try to cut or pop hairs. However thanks for sharing.
Yes it is a knife. A RAZOR IS OTHER THONG
Il convient de se méfier de "Google traduction". "File" dans How to make a straight razor out of an old file est certainement une lime.
Merci pour les conseils de traduction
Je n'ai pas les compétences pour juger du travail, mais j'apprécie beaucoup l'effort de la présentation en français qui manifestement n'est pas votre langue maternelle. Un complément d'information, "lime" est du genre féminin donc ce sera "d'une ancienne lime" dans le titre. La langue française est bien compliquée, c'est pourquoi, au risque de me répéter, je salue votre effort.
Corrigé!
Merci
My pleasure.
It's blunt even my crapiest knife cuts better
maybe you like this one better ua-cam.com/video/s-WGWC7OF38/v-deo.html
if not, stay tuned, I have got some great videos coming out!