If you have access to a vapor blaster, it is the greatest way to get those heads and gasket surfaces looking like factory new. I, too, hate scraping gaskets and choose to go the vapor route now. Looking forward to your valve work video, Ralph. Great work.
I wish I could afford a vapor blaster. Looked at them but they are very expensive here in Canada. Have to settle for glass beading here in the shop. You always want something more ha ha. Valve work coming Thanks for commenting!
@@itsmytimeletsgo Ralph, if it would be possible for you to explain claculating install height vs actual install height/shimming and how it relates to valve spring pressures, that would be greatly appreciated for those of us just getting in to doing head work.
If you check out our playlist, the one on the 96" build, you may find more info on what you are looking for. Did a lot of head work there. But always more I can do so I will keep it in mind for future video's. Thanks. @@kor3427
Ralph, can you tell me your what brand and model # of your measuring instrument tool is pleasw and thank you. Just bought a set of 79 used heads I want to practice on. Some broken fins but am going to look for a local tig welder to tig weld the fins back on.
Not sure which measuring tools you mean that I use but the Vernier Calipers, to measure heights etc, are just ones I get a local Auto parts store. You can always spring for the most expensive but some of us live in the real world and can only afford what we can afford. They work fine. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for these videos. Question for ya . My head gaksets on my newely rebuilt shovel i bought second hand were weeping it was smoking and there was oil residue in the intake. When i pulled the heads i noticed that there not truly flat in all places and one of the inserts is a little proud. I assume thats my sealing issue. Can i just flat sand them on some emory on a true flat service ?
Hello Josh. I see many , so called, rebuilt motors that have problems. Seems some people think if you put new gaskets in its rebuilt. You can try sanding, and see if they clean up easily, but some times the threaded insert should be machined down a little lower if they are proud. If the heads are not flat they really should be machined smooth again, "JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE THEM FLAT". If to much is machined off they may bottom out on the lip on the cylinder and not seal, and then all the inserts may have to be countersunk a bit, and the cylinder spigot would have to be taken care of as well. The head could have to be machined to allow for that clearance . Hard to be sure by just sanding. Oil in the intake area might be valve guide worn out, valve not seating or burnt could be allowing oil in, in extreme cases, if its being pushed up past the rings. Be sure to check that the insert is not pulling out. Pay particular attention when you torque down the heads to see if its soft and not seeming to tighten up. Also I have run into the, rare, situation where a head bolt bottoms out before it is tight. You can check by measuring to make sure they are going up far enough to get a good torque. Good luck and thanks for the question. Hope this helps you out, I am not an expert, but its hard to be sure about the cause of things without more inspection of all the parts. Thanks and good luck!
If you have access to a vapor blaster, it is the greatest way to get those heads and gasket surfaces looking like factory new. I, too, hate scraping gaskets and choose to go the vapor route now. Looking forward to your valve work video, Ralph. Great work.
I wish I could afford a vapor blaster. Looked at them but they are very expensive here in Canada. Have to settle for glass beading here in the shop. You always want something more ha ha. Valve work coming Thanks for commenting!
@@itsmytimeletsgo Ralph, if it would be possible for you to explain claculating install height vs actual install height/shimming and how it relates to valve spring pressures, that would be greatly appreciated for those of us just getting in to doing head work.
@@itsmytimeletsgoyou and me both brother. Luckily I have the second best thing. A buddy with one lol
Lucky for you !! Thanks for commenting@@Scummy_shovel
If you check out our playlist, the one on the 96" build, you may find more info on what you are looking for. Did a lot of head work there. But always more I can do so I will keep it in mind for future video's. Thanks. @@kor3427
I really enjoyed this video Ralph. Your about to hit that 1k soon. Keep up the great content
Getting there slowly but surely. Thanks for the comment! Hope all is well down your way.
Looking good Ralph, sorry about scraping gaskets 🇨🇦
Yes scraping gaskets is something we all hate for sure. Thanks for commenting!
I love scrapping gaskets, Lol. Just kidding buddy, another awesome video.
I should have brought them down to you then ha ha. Thanks for commenting Sean.
Ralph, can you tell me your what brand and model # of your measuring instrument tool is pleasw and thank you. Just bought a set of 79 used heads I want to practice on. Some broken fins but am going to look for a local tig welder to tig weld the fins back on.
Not sure which measuring tools you mean that I use but the Vernier Calipers, to measure heights etc, are just ones I get a local Auto parts store. You can always spring for the most expensive but some of us live in the real world and can only afford what we can afford. They work fine. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for commenting.
Interesting video, eastern Canada I'd guess?
Yes East Coast Canada. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for these videos. Question for ya . My head gaksets on my newely rebuilt shovel i bought second hand were weeping it was smoking and there was oil residue in the intake. When i pulled the heads i noticed that there not truly flat in all places and one of the inserts is a little proud. I assume thats my sealing issue. Can i just flat sand them on some emory on a true flat service ?
Hello Josh. I see many , so called, rebuilt motors that have problems. Seems some people think if you put new gaskets in its rebuilt. You can try sanding, and see if they clean up easily, but some times the threaded insert should be machined down a little lower if they are proud. If the heads are not flat they really should be machined smooth again, "JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE THEM FLAT". If to much is machined off they may bottom out on the lip on the cylinder and not seal, and then all the inserts may have to be countersunk a bit, and the cylinder spigot would have to be taken care of as well. The head could have to be machined to allow for that clearance . Hard to be sure by just sanding. Oil in the intake area might be valve guide worn out, valve not seating or burnt could be allowing oil in, in extreme cases, if its being pushed up past the rings. Be sure to check that the insert is not pulling out. Pay particular attention when you torque down the heads to see if its soft and not seeming to tighten up. Also I have run into the, rare, situation where a head bolt bottoms out before it is tight. You can check by measuring to make sure they are going up far enough to get a good torque. Good luck and thanks for the question. Hope this helps you out, I am not an expert, but its hard to be sure about the cause of things without more inspection of all the parts. Thanks and good luck!