Thank you Lawrence. You can grab some from an authorized dealer. Here is a link. www.heatshieldproducts.com/buy If you don't see a local dealer, scroll down the map to order from an online retailer.
now you created a burner for the coil wires (if car is stopped). everybody knows that hot air is raising up. Cold bottom- headers (with one side shield)- coil wire. with the heat shield you only give a airflow direction to the top (coil- wire) instead of having diffuse air motion. It is necessary that you create a cover on the top to save the wires. But the product looks not bad, I will use it for my next project.
I think that engines with contra flow heads (Ford 300) could really benefit from this. The exhaust and the intake are too close together. Shielding the heat away from the intake should make a big difference. This would work well as a means of insulating a cold air intake or forced induction tubing after the inter cooler
Thank you for watching the video. We couldn't agree more! This is very beneficial for any application where an intake system rests directly above and exhaust component.
Well, zircotec + dei wrap + this will just be savage, inconel will probably be the only metal that survives such ammount of trapped heat, but that engine bay will be cool as ice
Thank you for watching. However you must remove any wraps before installing the Armor. The exhaust wrap will become brittle and fall apart. This will make the Armor loose and potentially fall off the vehicle. Wrap is not needed with Armor because if it’s superior insulation properties.
Could I use the existing bolt holes from my original oem engine manifold heat shield. Use washers. Will it hold its shape if I don’t use the included wire and use just the 4 original bolt holes. Thx
I installed a heat shield on my ecotec V6 holden Commodore.( gm Buick based bottom end) I installed 25mm manifold spacer between top part of runners and a 12 mm manifold spacer between the bottom part of plenum and top part to increase efficiency ( better combustion) composite materials used from mace engineering! Basically looks like a tunnel ram setup. CAI setup is wrapped in 10 mm foam, bitumen based aluminum foil, then a foil wrap. My heatsheild got hot so hot and when I took it off . It didn't really make much of a temp difference on my CAI setup. Airbox is cold but my plenum on highway is literally cold. But colder air is more power. Can I wrap exactly how you did the procedure as I have metal insulation on my leads? Can I do wrap your product on standard headers? As GM factory headers are pretty free flowing as is? The heatsoak in Aussie conditions especially when I switch my twin thermo fans on is ridiculous! Your product is so far the best I've seen. If I can drop my temps as your video? I'll be laughing! Btw my CAI setup will never knock all the heat out! Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work 🙂👍👍👍
Thank you for you comment and questions Dragan. Heatshield Products does not recommend using Heatshield Armor on cast headers only steel tube headers. I am not 100% sure what you mean by "leads". Do you mean the spark plug wires. If this is the case you can take a look out our spark plug boots and our ignition wire heat shields on our website. www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/spark-plug-boot-heat-shields
I'm a bit confused. On this video you mention not encapsulating the header so it can still breath. On your install instructions it says, "If you are not going to cover the collector on the header, you must stop the Header Armor 6 inches from the collector. Heatshield Products Strongly recommends you cover one entire side of your header or manifold including the collector. Failure to do so will cause some portions to cool more quickly than others. This can result in separations at the welds on the collector." Am I misunderstanding what you are saying?
The goal is to cover just one side of the header. From flange to collector. Don't stop right before the collector, continue all the way down. Cover just one full side allows the pipes to breathe on the backside. Since the Armor series so far more efficient than exhaust wrap at retaining heat, it should have one half side open.
I'm a bit confused as why you don't. Cut individual pieces to go over each tube ,? Then wrap the collector with a bigger piece ? It would still look nice and there would be no open Area for heat dwell like wrapping 1 side only you can cut pieces vertically and like the top portion of the header go all the way down the tube forming it around each tube . If it's as good as the vid shows the whole header would only put out 140 degree or so into the engine bay not 700 on one side . That's flipping hot 700 !!!! I've seen 500 with a heat gun with just ceramic paint .
That is something you absolutely can do. There are different installation methods for different applications. As you can see here. ua-cam.com/video/jAYlXED6Mis/v-deo.html
Incorrect, that's going to depend on the wrap and if you use a spray product like DEI recommends over their wraps, expect a lingering smell even after hours of driving.
I’m looking to lower under hood temps and heat soaking and intake air temperatures for my car when I’m driving in town. It’s not a daily but it has a built motor and I drive it on the weekends, but a long stop light and triple digit ambient temps and my car will start pulling timing due to the temps, would this product be beneficial in achieving lower temps in slow driving or stopped conditions or will it do more harm than good
Thank you for the question MarcosS197. We have seen up to a 60% reduction in under hood temperatures when using Header Armor. Using the Header Armor will help keep the heat in your exhaust and reduce the amount of heat moving around the engine compartment. You can also head over to our website and check out our Automotive Heat Shield Guides for other ideas on how to help reduce heat under the hood. Thank you for watching.
Id like to see what air intake temps are before and after. Thats my concern, reducing the ambient air intake through the "CAI" and reducing supercharger heatsoak...
I'm not hating. Genuinely curious. I think you misunderstand what your so-called "haters" are trying to ask you. What is the ambient temperature at the top of the engine bay after the car has been running at idle for some time with your product vs wrap. Using your oven analogy, if you were to cover half the elements with your product, would this reduce the overall temperature of the oven? Probably not. If the element was fully covered using wrap, it might take longer for the oven to heat up than a shielded element. A car sitting in traffic, the engine bay is just like the oven, no air movement.
Thank you for the comment M C. The aluminum and the insulation have no issues with with water. Here is a link to our Instagram page where we dunk the Heatshield Armor in a 5 gallon bucket then heat it up. instagram.com/reel/CQb70egD1Ts/?
Thank you for your comment Robby. You can use this on a turbo manifold. Same instructions would apply. You can read the instructions prior to purchase on the link above in "Products Used".
Thank you for watching Warrior. Great question - Heatshield Armor takes much more heat than conventional header wrap 1800F vs. 1100F therefore the pipes need to breathe. Leaving the gap in the back allows them to do that. Also many header manufacturers do not want you to complete cover the headers.
I just bought a 77 corvette with fairly new headers. The car has a vapor lock issue on hot days. Can I install your product while the headers are on the car? Also would it be a good idea to wrap the fuel lines under the hood?
If you have vapor lock, it is always a good idea to shield the fuel line first. It's the least expensive starting point, and if it works you will save yourself some money. If you still would like to buy and install the Header Armor, you can install it without header removal. It is definitely tricky, and make sure you make a template our of paper first.
Why do aftermarket cylinder heads make more power than factory? Why don't the OEM's ship them with the vehicles? Same can be said for exhaust systems, manifolds, headers, fuel injection etc. It all comes down to cost on an OEM level. When you mass produce vehicles the accountants can over rule the engineers.
Shiel is great.. but that header wrap is not the proper way to do it.. needs to be wrap all around by doing that it prevents heat going back into the engine
Thank you for watching. We do not advise using it on both sides of the header. the engine will not over heat, covering the outside of the header helps to lower under hood temps and still does not over heat the engine oil or engine.
OCTurboJoe Thank you for watching. Feel free to email us pictures of your car and install when you are done. You can use the contact form on our website.
Interesting stuff. Still leaves a lot of room for heat to radiate from imo which can result in higher underhood temperatures ? I’m not sure aiming a heat gun to the metal shield will prove much for underhood temps because clearly metal is more radiant than a wrap product. The fact that you can aim it on a bare header to still get 700 degree or so means heat is radiating underhood from some areas.
I'm a tad confused as well covering one side of the header is going to keep everything on that side cool but what about the other side toward the engine ? It's still 700 degrees facing the starter and heads seems like it is just trapping the heat in it's still 700 degrees under the shield .
Thank you for you comment... There may be a bit more heat on the pipe after you install the Header Armor but not enough to melt to spark plug boot. It really allows the heat to escape through the exhaust quicker.
@@firstNamelastName-ho6lv We have (2) different types. We have a standard fiberglass boot or we have a basalt fiber Pro Boot. Both will withstand over 1000F. The basalt is stronger at temperature than fiberglass. They are located here. www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/spark-plug-boot-heat-shields
S H thanks for the hate. Feel free to come back and contribute positively. in the future. 1.) We never tell people not to ceramic coat. We always say if you have the budget do both. 2.) People who have ceramic coated are our best customers. They understand the value of insulation and its performance benefits. there is a certain amount of chemistry a thin coating can not fight. 3.) The Armor stops more heat than a wrap or any coating period. 4.) It's America. You don't have to buy it, please don't. Let someone else run cooler and faster and pass you by.
No Hate, intended. Just facts . This heat shield does not stop any heat - it simply redirects the heat. Your dishonest heat gut test, wher you shoot the outside of heat shielding - of course that should be lower than a bare header as its a heat shield. This heat blanket doesn't fully insulate the headers - it simply acts as a shield and redirects heat upward and out the backside. You are selling Snake Oil. No better than wrapping with a $5 roll of aluminum foil.
@@AZDESERT2024 Not sure what has you so angry. Believe want you want. If you want to wrap your headers in aluminum foil, feel free to do so. Clearly the thermal images here must be faked. By the way, these were taken for us by our customer who uses it on engines for oil production. www.heatshieldproducts.com/heatshield-armor Or the video with the flame hitting the insulation here. ua-cam.com/video/reJtb_pZ6nw/v-deo.html Not sure why you felt the need to watch since you have nothing but hate for what we do. Thank you though for the ability to provide visual evidence for any other people who may have additional questions. Have a great day!
No hate, no anger here. Clearly my comments have your panties in a twist. This is nothing but a heat shield - of course the Thermal imager will show lower temp when directed at the shield itself. You clearly made this video for idiots. You can't stand that I have exposed the carnival trick. This snake oil demo did not demonstrate lower underwood temps, because ther are none. The shield is doing Nothing but redirecting the heat upward and backward. Prove me wrong carnival barker . If you don't like your dishonest sales pitches being called out, don't post them on a public forum.
Dan- you can visit www.heatshieldproducts.com/buy There is a map with local dealers. If you don't see a dealer near you scroll down below the map and there are links to inline retailers. Thank you for your interest.
Hello Devo. Thank you for the comment. You will want to measure your header or manifold. We do have a slightly smaller size PN 177009(1/4 thk x 12 x 36 in w/ wire I-6 cyl kit) that may be better for that application or you can go with a bulk sheet of Heatshield Armor and get some high temp wire. Let me know if that answers your question.
@@Heatshieldproducts I see. It looks like rockwool and rockwool is supposed to be super high temp resistant which is why I ask. I see " Bio Soluble fiber" is sort of a synthetic mineral wool/ceramic wool
Aluminum is not intended to be used as a heat shield directly on an exhaust shield. Sketchy would be if we told you to install it the other way. The aluminum is there to protect the insulation and give an easy way to attach to the header. Additionally aluminum as a heat shield is best used as a radiant barrier not directly touching the heat source.
pr0n5tar Temp for heat ? Don't get it 700 degrees is flipping hot for a header they usually run 500 that's fricken hot 700 tells me that heats getting trapped under that hood rap and just sitting there
whats the point of this? heat still comes into the engine bay. measure the temperature in the bay 30cm from the headers and compare to ceramic and wrap. this doesnt keep the heat inside the tubes
We love haters! Thank you for the chance to further prove our point. This actually stops more heat. Check out the temperature difference between an wrap and the Armor. This was down with a Sper contact probe on a Sper thermocouple. Heatshield Armor vs Exhaust Wrap ua-cam.com/video/wgtx89yYBLE/v-deo.html
@@Heatshieldproducts You missed his point or sidestepped it. Sure the Armor is cooler AT the Armor's surface. What about temperature measured at a reasonable distance from the Armor to better indicate how it affects ENGINE BAY TEMPERATURE? Let's see a comparison of Armor vs wrap temperature in the engine bay, not on the shield's surface.
@@BuiltbyD Wouldn't it make sense that a lower external temperature (pipe vs armor) would have cooler surrounding temperatures. Think of it like an oven, turning the temperature down on the heating element from 500-F down to 200-F. Same principle applies. The exhaust generates heat, reducing the heat at the source drops surrounding temps.
@@BuiltbyD Actually very logical oven and engine are both heat generators. IF you can't wrap your head around that i am sorry. The one advantage an engine has is airflow. Unlike an enclosed engine, air moves in an out of the engine bay. With air flow the temperature drop is even great than it would be in dialing down an oven.
Almost took it seriously. Anyways, just wanna make sure you can use it on regular slow vehicles like my 2009 Nissan Rogue with a cvt. The exhaust manifold heat shield was a pain to remove and I’m thinking something like this would be an improvement.
@@customer7575 It will work well. Keep in mind if it is a cast header... you want to be careful how much you cover. This product works extremely well at insulating. You don't want to over heat your cast manifold.
Got some Speed Engineering headers for my 6th Camaro. I ceramic coated plus wrapped them in this heat shield blanket. 😁
WOW!!!!! On my shopping list. Thats some deep header knowledge.
We Viper drivers got heat issues to solve. '17 ACR-E BigBlock runnin' hot
Thank you Lawrence. You can grab some from an authorized dealer. Here is a link.
www.heatshieldproducts.com/buy
If you don't see a local dealer, scroll down the map to order from an online retailer.
now you created a burner for the coil wires (if car is stopped). everybody knows that hot air is raising up. Cold bottom- headers (with one side shield)- coil wire. with the heat shield you only give a airflow direction to the top (coil- wire) instead of having diffuse air motion. It is necessary that you create a cover on the top to save the wires.
But the product looks not bad, I will use it for my next project.
I suppose a 12 v. 4 inch fan blowing downward towards the firewall could help the hot air out under the vehicle as well.
Oops, I installed this product even though I drive slowly. ;-)
Did a violate a warranty?
To the guys that actually use this product, what kind of longevity is expected from something like this, just out of curiosity. Thanks!
nice but put shield on engine side to keep engine oil cooler! :)
That’s right
I think that engines with contra flow heads (Ford 300) could really benefit from this. The exhaust and the intake are too close together. Shielding the heat away from the intake should make a big difference.
This would work well as a means of insulating a cold air intake or forced induction tubing after the inter cooler
Thank you for watching the video. We couldn't agree more! This is very beneficial for any application where an intake system rests directly above and exhaust component.
Well, zircotec + dei wrap + this will just be savage, inconel will probably be the only metal that survives such ammount of trapped heat, but that engine bay will be cool as ice
Thank you for watching. However you must remove any wraps before installing the Armor. The exhaust wrap will become brittle and fall apart. This will make the Armor loose and potentially fall off the vehicle. Wrap is not needed with Armor because if it’s superior insulation properties.
Could I use the existing bolt holes from my original oem engine manifold heat shield. Use washers. Will it hold its shape if I don’t use the included wire and use just the 4 original bolt holes. Thx
With the insulation we do not recommend you put this on the factory heat shield.
I installed a heat shield on my ecotec V6 holden Commodore.( gm Buick based bottom end) I installed 25mm manifold spacer between top part of runners and a 12 mm manifold spacer between the bottom part of plenum and top part to increase efficiency ( better combustion) composite materials used from mace engineering! Basically looks like a tunnel ram setup. CAI setup is wrapped in 10 mm foam, bitumen based aluminum foil, then a foil wrap. My heatsheild got hot so hot and when I took it off . It didn't really make much of a temp difference on my CAI setup. Airbox is cold but my plenum on highway is literally cold. But colder air is more power. Can I wrap exactly how you did the procedure as I have metal insulation on my leads? Can I do wrap your product on standard headers? As GM factory headers are pretty free flowing as is? The heatsoak in Aussie conditions especially when I switch my twin thermo fans on is ridiculous! Your product is so far the best I've seen. If I can drop my temps as your video? I'll be laughing! Btw my CAI setup will never knock all the heat out! Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work 🙂👍👍👍
Thank you for you comment and questions Dragan. Heatshield Products does not recommend using Heatshield Armor on cast headers only steel tube headers. I am not 100% sure what you mean by "leads". Do you mean the spark plug wires. If this is the case you can take a look out our spark plug boots and our ignition wire heat shields on our website. www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/spark-plug-boot-heat-shields
I'm a bit confused. On this video you mention not encapsulating the header so it can still breath. On your install instructions it says, "If you are not going to cover the collector on the header, you must stop the Header Armor 6 inches from the collector. Heatshield Products Strongly recommends you cover one entire side of your header or manifold including the collector. Failure to do so will cause some portions to cool more quickly than others. This can result in separations at the welds on the collector." Am I misunderstanding what you are saying?
The goal is to cover just one side of the header. From flange to collector. Don't stop right before the collector, continue all the way down. Cover just one full side allows the pipes to breathe on the backside. Since the Armor series so far more efficient than exhaust wrap at retaining heat, it should have one half side open.
I'm a bit confused as why you don't. Cut individual pieces to go over each tube ,? Then wrap the collector with a bigger piece ? It would still look nice and there would be no open Area for heat dwell like wrapping 1 side only you can cut pieces vertically and like the top portion of the header go all the way down the tube forming it around each tube . If it's as good as the vid shows the whole header would only put out 140 degree or so into the engine bay not 700 on one side . That's flipping hot 700 !!!! I've seen 500 with a heat gun with just ceramic paint .
That is something you absolutely can do. There are different installation methods for different applications. As you can see here.
ua-cam.com/video/jAYlXED6Mis/v-deo.html
the wrap only smells the first time u start up the car for a few minutes then it's normal no big deal
Incorrect, that's going to depend on the wrap and if you use a spray product like DEI recommends over their wraps, expect a lingering smell even after hours of driving.
I’m looking to lower under hood temps and heat soaking and intake air temperatures for my car when I’m driving in town. It’s not a daily but it has a built motor and I drive it on the weekends, but a long stop light and triple digit ambient temps and my car will start pulling timing due to the temps, would this product be beneficial in achieving lower temps in slow driving or stopped conditions or will it do more harm than good
Thank you for the question MarcosS197. We have seen up to a 60% reduction in under hood temperatures when using Header Armor. Using the Header Armor will help keep the heat in your exhaust and reduce the amount of heat moving around the engine compartment. You can also head over to our website and check out our Automotive Heat Shield Guides for other ideas on how to help reduce heat under the hood. Thank you for watching.
Id like to see what air intake temps are before and after. Thats my concern, reducing the ambient air intake through the "CAI" and reducing supercharger heatsoak...
here is a good video for before and after temps. ua-cam.com/video/1GBdAT452zw/v-deo.html
I am looking for some sort of fire resistance sleeve or wrap for CAM boots to protect them in event of Engine Fire. Is there sometghing like that?
I'm not hating. Genuinely curious. I think you misunderstand what your so-called "haters" are trying to ask you. What is the ambient temperature at the top of the engine bay after the car has been running at idle for some time with your product vs wrap. Using your oven analogy, if you were to cover half the elements with your product, would this reduce the overall temperature of the oven? Probably not. If the element was fully covered using wrap, it might take longer for the oven to heat up than a shielded element. A car sitting in traffic, the engine bay is just like the oven, no air movement.
Insane
Is it water resistant?
Thank you for the comment M C. The aluminum and the insulation have no issues with with water. Here is a link to our Instagram page where we dunk the Heatshield Armor in a 5 gallon bucket then heat it up. instagram.com/reel/CQb70egD1Ts/?
Usable on a turbo manifold? Specifically for a turbo rotary?
Thank you for your comment Robby. You can use this on a turbo manifold. Same instructions would apply. You can read the instructions prior to purchase on the link above in "Products Used".
@@Heatshieldproducts thanks for the info 👍
Why not do both sides
Thank you for watching Warrior. Great question - Heatshield Armor takes much more heat than conventional header wrap 1800F vs. 1100F therefore the pipes need to breathe. Leaving the gap in the back allows them to do that. Also many header manufacturers do not want you to complete cover the headers.
Using these one my ls swap!
Thank you for watching!
Not for you if you getting tailgated alot or you uninterested in performance gains haha
Why wire? I am not sure will last long in such high temperatures.
There are specifir metal ''tie wraps'' for this kind of work.
This is a special Inconel wire. It can take the heat without issue. Thank you for watching.
@@Heatshieldproducts : Thank you for your answers sir. May i presume is far better quality than Galvanized wire?
@@Grenadieros Yes, and the temp rating is far better than galvanized.
@@Heatshieldproducts : Thank you sir, greetings from Greece.
@@Grenadieros Yes sir, Inconel is much better for high-temperature applications
this video is coronavirus compliant.. mask, glove, and goggles!
cant find a single dealer on your website that carries your product
Michael use the locator, www.heatshieldproducts.com/buy and scroll down below the map and order from an online retailer.
Product is a joke. Don't think any dealers were fooled into placing a second order.
Has anyone tried this product on their Canam Spyders? They have a real heat your legs issue!
I just bought a 77 corvette with fairly new headers. The car has a vapor lock issue on hot days. Can I install your product while the headers are on the car? Also would it be a good idea to wrap the fuel lines under the hood?
If you have vapor lock, it is always a good idea to shield the fuel line first. It's the least expensive starting point, and if it works you will save yourself some money.
If you still would like to buy and install the Header Armor, you can install it without header removal. It is definitely tricky, and make sure you make a template our of paper first.
That's the exact reason I switched to a Holly electric fuel pump no more vapor lock
If it improved performance and did'nt damage the headers, then why don't headers come heat wrapped from the factory?
Why do aftermarket cylinder heads make more power than factory? Why don't the OEM's ship them with the vehicles? Same can be said for exhaust systems, manifolds, headers, fuel injection etc. It all comes down to cost on an OEM level. When you mass produce vehicles the accountants can over rule the engineers.
Shiel is great.. but that header wrap is not the proper way to do it.. needs to be wrap all around by doing that it prevents heat going back into the engine
Thank you for watching. We do not advise using it on both sides of the header. the engine will not over heat, covering the outside of the header helps to lower under hood temps and still does not over heat the engine oil or engine.
Thanks for this vid. Would it be beneficial on an already lava wrapped header, or does it need to be used by itself?
OCTurboJoe It should go directly on the exhaust system, remove the old product. Make sure the header/pipes are clean. Thank you for watching
***** I see. So the existing wrap needs to be removed prior installing the armor. Thanks for replying!!
OCTurboJoe Thank you for watching. Feel free to email us pictures of your car and install when you are done. You can use the contact form on our website.
How many feet of wire does this come with? The video says 5ft, but it looks like you just ran through at least that much on one header.
+Jesse Smith The single kit comes with 5' of wire, the dual kit comes with 2 5' spools of Inconel wire.
+Heatshield Products Inc Oh OK. It just looked big enough for two. Thanks!
Interesting stuff. Still leaves a lot of room for heat to radiate from imo which can result in higher underhood temperatures ? I’m not sure aiming a heat gun to the metal shield will prove much for underhood temps because clearly metal is more radiant than a wrap product. The fact that you can aim it on a bare header to still get 700 degree or so means heat is radiating underhood from some areas.
We purposely covered only one portion of the header to show the difference in heat reduction.
I'm a tad confused as well covering one side of the header is going to keep everything on that side cool but what about the other side toward the engine ? It's still 700 degrees facing the starter and heads seems like it is just trapping the heat in it's still 700 degrees under the shield .
Doesn't this just redirect the heat to behind the headers, resulting in an 80% heat increase to the spark plugs?
Thank you for you comment... There may be a bit more heat on the pipe after you install the Header Armor but not enough to melt to spark plug boot. It really allows the heat to escape through the exhaust quicker.
@@Heatshieldproducts Ah okay, is there any spark boot brand that you've tested/reccomend? I've heard too many horror stories lol.
@@firstNamelastName-ho6lv We have (2) different types. We have a standard fiberglass boot or we have a basalt fiber Pro Boot. Both will withstand over 1000F. The basalt is stronger at temperature than fiberglass. They are located here. www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/spark-plug-boot-heat-shields
$237 for a 36"x47" piece - for that price, one can have the headers Jet-Hot Coated and have them look awesome.
S H thanks for the hate. Feel free to come back and contribute positively. in the future.
1.) We never tell people not to ceramic coat. We always say if you have the budget do both.
2.) People who have ceramic coated are our best customers. They understand the value of insulation and its performance benefits. there is a certain amount of chemistry a thin coating can not fight.
3.) The Armor stops more heat than a wrap or any coating period.
4.) It's America. You don't have to buy it, please don't. Let someone else run cooler and faster and pass you by.
No Hate, intended. Just facts .
This heat shield does not stop any heat - it simply redirects the heat. Your dishonest heat gut test, wher you shoot the outside of heat shielding - of course that should be lower than a bare header as its a heat shield.
This heat blanket doesn't fully insulate the headers - it simply acts as a shield and redirects heat upward and out the backside.
You are selling Snake Oil. No better than wrapping with a $5 roll of aluminum foil.
@@AZDESERT2024 Not sure what has you so angry. Believe want you want. If you want to wrap your headers in aluminum foil, feel free to do so.
Clearly the thermal images here must be faked. By the way, these were taken for us by our customer who uses it on engines for oil production.
www.heatshieldproducts.com/heatshield-armor
Or the video with the flame hitting the insulation here. ua-cam.com/video/reJtb_pZ6nw/v-deo.html
Not sure why you felt the need to watch since you have nothing but hate for what we do.
Thank you though for the ability to provide visual evidence for any other people who may have additional questions.
Have a great day!
No hate, no anger here. Clearly my comments have your panties in a twist.
This is nothing but a heat shield - of course the Thermal imager will show lower temp when directed at the shield itself. You clearly made this video for idiots. You can't stand that I have exposed the carnival trick.
This snake oil demo did not demonstrate lower underwood temps, because ther are none. The shield is doing Nothing but redirecting the heat upward and backward. Prove me wrong carnival barker .
If you don't like your dishonest sales pitches being called out, don't post them on a public forum.
Uhh Jet hot quoted me 813$... whats the discount code? 🙈
where can i buy your products? i need to wrap my side mount exhaust pipes on my 94 viper. thanks
Dan- you can visit www.heatshieldproducts.com/buy There is a map with local dealers. If you don't see a dealer near you scroll down below the map and there are links to inline retailers.
Thank you for your interest.
2006 mazda 3 2.3L ?
Hello Devo. Thank you for the comment. You will want to measure your header or manifold. We do have a slightly smaller size PN 177009(1/4 thk x 12 x 36 in w/ wire I-6 cyl kit) that may be better for that application or you can go with a bulk sheet of Heatshield Armor and get some high temp wire. Let me know if that answers your question.
Is that basalt rock wool or fiberglass?
We are assuming you are talking about the insulation. It is a bio-soluble silica. If not let us know.
@@Heatshieldproducts I see. It looks like rockwool and rockwool is supposed to be super high temp resistant which is why I ask. I see " Bio Soluble fiber" is sort of a synthetic mineral wool/ceramic wool
@@chir0pter This will take up to 1800F.
Should the reflective side be towards the heat? that looks kinda sketchy bro.
Aluminum is not intended to be used as a heat shield directly on an exhaust shield. Sketchy would be if we told you to install it the other way. The aluminum is there to protect the insulation and give an easy way to attach to the header. Additionally aluminum as a heat shield is best used as a radiant barrier not directly touching the heat source.
I prefer Heatshield INFERNO EXHAUST WRAP!!! That stuff is bulletproof and will do a way better job than this stuff!!!
Appreciate you opinion here. Inferno Wrap is great. Thank you for your comment.
Cool.
dont mistake temperature for heat, anyways nic product ill be buying
pr0n5tar
Temp for heat ? Don't get it 700 degrees is flipping hot for a header they usually run 500 that's fricken hot 700 tells me that heats getting trapped under that hood rap and just sitting there
9:11 speedo limito 45....they gotya by dabollzzzz....EVERYWHERE!!!!!! no need for a lotta horses; stop enslaving yourself for the damm cars lol
whats the point of this? heat still comes into the engine bay. measure the temperature in the bay 30cm from the headers and compare to ceramic and wrap. this doesnt keep the heat inside the tubes
We love haters! Thank you for the chance to further prove our point. This actually stops more heat.
Check out the temperature difference between an wrap and the Armor. This was down with a Sper contact probe on a Sper thermocouple. Heatshield Armor vs Exhaust Wrap ua-cam.com/video/wgtx89yYBLE/v-deo.html
@@Heatshieldproducts You missed his point or sidestepped it. Sure the Armor is cooler AT the Armor's surface. What about temperature measured at a reasonable distance from the Armor to better indicate how it affects ENGINE BAY TEMPERATURE? Let's see a comparison of Armor vs wrap temperature in the engine bay, not on the shield's surface.
@@BuiltbyD Wouldn't it make sense that a lower external temperature (pipe vs armor) would have cooler surrounding temperatures. Think of it like an oven, turning the temperature down on the heating element from 500-F down to 200-F. Same principle applies. The exhaust generates heat, reducing the heat at the source drops surrounding temps.
@@Heatshieldproducts Fuzzy logic. Let's see the comparison of ENGINE BAY TEMPS.
@@BuiltbyD Actually very logical oven and engine are both heat generators. IF you can't wrap your head around that i am sorry. The one advantage an engine has is airflow. Unlike an enclosed engine, air moves in an out of the engine bay. With air flow the temperature drop is even great than it would be in dialing down an oven.
What a moronic disclaimer at the beginning.
Just an attempt back in 2015 to be funny. Thanks for watching.
Almost took it seriously. Anyways, just wanna make sure you can use it on regular slow vehicles like my 2009 Nissan Rogue with a cvt. The exhaust manifold heat shield was a pain to remove and I’m thinking something like this would be an improvement.
@@customer7575 It will work well. Keep in mind if it is a cast header... you want to be careful how much you cover. This product works extremely well at insulating. You don't want to over heat your cast manifold.