Have you guy ever had any success using this type of stuff? Links to the products in this video: Fiberfix: amzn.to/3zC2m2W JB Weld High Heat:amzn.to/3lsR4Bm My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Great video! HELP! I have a 1997 Mercury Cougar with PI Swapped polished and ported headers. I used the Mustang GT Shorty headers on my Cougar but the EGR Tube had to be relocated to drivers side exhaust manifold. My problem is that the EGR Tube is cracked by the flange. Can't seem to remove the nut. I was thinking of using the JB Weld High Heat paste and a shop vac hooked up to the exhaust to aid pulling the high heat paste through the crack in the flange. Do you recommend this? My last resort before using the High Heat paste is to use an impact chissel to try and knock the nut loose. It was changed in 2011 when I did the swap. I can get a 1-1/8" wrench on it but theres no room to actually turn the wrench.
You think thats a mess, you should see my "y" pipe. It's in 7 pieces all held together with beer cans, clamps, duct tape, muffler tape, hose clamps, foil tape and stuff I don't even want to mention
I've used that JB weld product before repairing a cracked metal radiator and it worked great. Couldn't believe it but it did. It was the top part of the radiator though. That product is good for some things. A friend repaired a hole in the bottom of his 2000 Silverado fuel tank and has held up for months
I'm wondering if I bought your car because mine has JB weld in the same place you're describing, although obviously I highly doubt it lol. Not an old Toyota, right?
@@MrBradshawbenjamin If it is his car, I doubt he'd want to admit it, because anyone would feel the new owner will blast them with all kinds of crap about the vehicle. LOL
I did the same thing to fix my radiator a while ago and I was also amazed how easy and cheap a fix it was until a year later it blew again on the freeway and roasted my engine before I noticed/had time to pull in somewhere. It was an older KIA with over 260k on it so not a huge loss but really shoulda just dropped a new radiator in in hindsight. Or at least realized it was a temp fix.
I think the fiber might be OK if the pipe is in general good condition. But as we saw here, your old pipe was failing overall everywhere. It's whack-a-mole to plug holes as new ones pop up.
Whatever your feelings about this stuff, it seems to do the job for which it's intended, though it's not exactly as "strong as steel", except when comparing it to very cheap steel. I would have added an intermediate section and more clamps, but what you did worked for as long as one would expect. I suspect it took a lot longer, even for you, to replace the whole pipe than it would have to put two bandages (or 3 or 4, or 5) on the existing pipe, so it's not an even comparison; for those of us without a lift or a welder, the time difference would be even greater. So, if you are dealing with a car that is already on its last legs, or leak in a system that is already due to be replaced at a later date (say, if you expect the catalytic converter to fail before the next inspection), this tape could buy enough time to make a big difference. In any case, the cost of the tape is trivial; it's more a question of what will make the car drive-able without throwing a lot of time and money into something that will soon end up in the junkyard. PS: I'm now selling a 172,000 mile car with an exhaust leak and any real repairs would have no hope paying for themselves, so I'll patch it up and tell the buyer that it has been patched. He can decide when, or whether, it's worth it to "do it right" after he's lived with the car for a while.
How can you tell someone that it's fixed. It's like if you put a band-aid on someone's wound that needs to be sewn up and say that it's fine. Anyway, it's called fraud.
I kind of disagree with "just replace the rest of the pipe". First of all some parts of the exhaust system are very expensive and I know toyotas pretty much have one consecutive piece of exhaust that runs down most of the car with the catalytic converters attached so I would much rather try to patch the exhaust leak than buy a whole new exhaust. Also sometimes exhaust work is much harder In places that salt those bolts usually won't come out and you end up having to cut the exhaust and becomes a whole process meanwhile you could've patched the leak and could last a long time while saving time.
I like this video because of the honesty of it. I'm in a predicament right now where I want to do a quick fix on an exhaust. Usually quick fixes don't work that well. Haven't done one in many years but I remember back when I was young these types of products did not work all that well. I watched the video because I wanted to see if the technology has improved. It's good that we have Internet videos to see how it goes for other people before we go and waste our own time trying these products. It seems as though he didn't wait for the product to cure before revving the engine. I do really appreciate the honesty and realistic nature of this video. At the end it does give some good advice.
In Toronto Canada, drive an 04 Matrix for all four seasons, automated car washes, snow and road salt... 1 yr later and still going strong. I only got car ramps and jack stands. I figured an almost 20 year old car with a new pipe ranging in price from $150 - $200 plus labour... If I do the heat wrap 15 more years I'd still come out on top. Still going strong
In all fairness this product never claimed to make the whole pipe "like new". If you use this stuff you should know that it is nothing more than a band aid that may hold until suitable repair can be made. In the case of Fixx's repair because of the location and pipe condition I would expect to get a long life of that repair. Great video.
Living in an apartment, with no home garage to work on things, I used muffler tape + a spliced aluminum can + wire to cob together a temporary fix. Likely saved me from a ticket until I could take it to my friend's garage and fix it proper.
No point even trying to wrap that pipe unless your sticking to the guidelines on the packaging. I've used it before with the right measurements and it works brilliant and when dried it has an almost solid hard texture to it so should last a good while.
Yes, on my Corolla the mid pipe is ~$1500 Canadian dollars. So in real money about 50¢. Still in Canada it's a lot of coin. Can buy a lot of heat/muffler tape for that money.
I’ve spent $50 the last two years patching the exhaust on my shit car. Saved me over $500 that I’d have to spend on a new exhaust. 10% of the cost to get 2 years of driving out of the 4 years I’ve had it. Patching can be useful.
I'm going to try it on my Chevy 2500 HD, the leak is in the pipe with a build in catalectic converter, and believe it or not, that lousy 3' pipe is over a grand, BLOODY NUTS
If you're concerned about the tape holding then you should have used an old soup can. With both ends of the can removed you cut down the side of the can so you can wrap it around the pipe and put a clamp on it to hold it. I have used soup and soda cans to repair a few things on my cars. I used a soda can to repair the sway bar bracket on my Camry. Good video. Happy Motoring.
The lowblow thrown at chris fix was funny. All mufflers and exhausts don't run the same price. So for someone trying to buy some time these patches arent totally useless. With that being said, you should know they wont last forever.
My experience with that heat wrap stuff was that I would have been better off using an ace bandage and saving the $12. Mine got about as hard as a wet noodle. Very un-impressed.
Learn from this guys experience. Also, using a can cut in half to wrap around a hole and then a clamp on both ends works great on straight sections of pipe. Also, if your muffler is at th3 rear of your car, removing it qnd just running a length of flex pipe out the rear works fantastic, albeit a little loud.
I guess he didn't watch Scotty K., talk about this a few years ago. Scotty, had the same package, he cleaned off the pipe using a metal brush and used a pot of water, and then he wet it again, squeezed the extra water out of it, wrapped the tape around the pipe with a big hole, and after it was on he put the silver tape over it. It works!
The tape does work I used furnace cement to repair a crack/hole but remember it's only a temporary fix this will be u some time to get it fixed properly u were right in saying what the shape of the exhaust is in b 4 u try something like this
Good video. Your car could use some oil type undercoating since it's starting to rust. Not sure if you live in an area that applies road salt in the winter. I saw your great video on undercoating materials and although I have applied Krown, Rust Check, and the Dominion Seal No-Drip in the past, I just tried the canola oil. Bought 16 litres at Costco for $22 (Canadian) and applied it liberally with a Titan paint sprayer. It applied well and was easy to blast into frame drain holes. The car dripped for 2 or 3 days and I guess time will tell how well it stays on.
I used something similar from autozone then took a band clamp and clamped it tight. Only half the radius of the pipe is cracked and I no if not the truck for 1500 2 years ago and this is my first repair so I’m not worried
Have Honda 2002 crv 320,000 miles runs great.. last night someone tried to cut out catalytic Convertor.. however the convertor is bolted to frame. they gave up now have cut tail pipe. Think I'll give the wrap a try. Did that long time ago to Ford Pinto Muffler.. Worked Great lasted Years.
I have a tiny hole on my manifold. Its a truck and not easy to get the part swapped out. Also, the rusty bolts in the head might snap off or not come out at all. So Im willing to try the high heat epoxy and maybe a wrap for now. If it was a tailpipe or muffler, thats a whole different thing and easy to change out.
I think the point of these is to buy time before replacing the entire exhaust system. Not everyone is a welder or can do it themselves and will have to pony up more than a few bucks to most shops. Let's face it, you say $50 or whatever to replace the pipe but we all know any shop is going to mark up even these simple parts quite a bit plus labor...just saying. That said, based on your demo they seem to work in emergency or last resort type situations as a temp fix....anyone relying on tape and some goop to fix car parts of any kind is really hoping against hope at that point and probably just can't afford to pay for legit repairs.
I had a section of connecting pipe before the muffler rot out that looked like it was connected together with a joint? (Not sure what to call it). I went through a long and painful process of cutting that section out and replaced with a flex pipe. Watched many different videos showing different fixes. Eventually went with wrapping the pipe with the red muffler tape on one end and a jb weld wrap on the other end then secured with clamps. Seems to have done the job but only time will tell
that heat wrap looks way different then what was put on my manifold (header wrap) also known as heat wrap. And it wasn't for a hole, it was put on for other reasons, it looked and feels like fabric and stretches around the pipe like what you put on your body for a sprain or to cover wounds. It gave the 4runner a little better gas mileage plus helps with heat. Wasn't my idea, I had never heard of it before. My garage guy put in on. The 4runner was built for off road use and on road. Changed out the crap auto transmission for a 5 speed but kept the automatic axles which are geared different, (I think Toyota used 3 or so different ratios between 88 and 94?) The transmission was from an 89 pickup, the axles are original on the 94 4runner. Let's just say, 4-low is now more like 4-super low! Lots of torque not a lot of top end. Great gas milage. Also replaced the 3.0 for a newer 3.4 out of a 98 4runner limited rollover that I got for cheap. Sold the leather electric seats and that paid for the rollover, the rest I parted out as profit. They really shouldn't call what you got heat wrap, because there are heat wraps that are used in race cars and off road vehicles that increase performance. That stuff you got is more like repair wrap that is heat cured. Kinda different I think?
Got a couple small holes in my exhaust pipe from a welded on hanger pulling loose. Gonna try the putty in the holes and clamp the pipe back to the hanger. The rest of the pipe is still solid so this might last thousands of miles.
I have tried using the heat rap absolutely junk. It starts burning up immediately and within a few days. Your back where you start from repairing the exhaust .
Someone crudely cut out both of my cats in my Subaru Forester and I N-Rigged it with bendable sections of replacement pile from autozone, 4 sticks of JB weld putty, 1 liquid copper tube, Dollar Store Turkey aluminum pan where I cut out layers and 2 and 2.5 inch hose clamps. Three metal hangers to suspend it where it was most needed.. So i started with JB putty and really pushed into the hole and into any crease around Use a flat head screw driver to pis he it deeper. Then put liquid copper all over the putty and past it to exceed the putty and wrap the aluminum around the copper and putty like a pig in a blanket. 3 hose clamps on each section, 1 clamp on the end and one in the middle and tighten. And hour later you are good to go
If you have the lift to replace the exhaust it is better, without labor cost replacing exhaust is not that expensive. Replacing the whole thing with the car on a jack stand it a bit more dicey. I would also need to replace both O2 sensors also, and those are not coming out.
I don’t know if welding would have been any better. Probably would have done the same as the tape. Put strain on another part of the tube and blew a leak there.
I’m going to have to try it now, got under my car to take a look at my wobbly exhaust system and I have a good sized rust hole. The rest of the the pipe has basically no rust so I don’t want to replace the whole thing. In the next few days I’ll try it
i like your garage hydraulic lifter and i want to buy one too. I wonder if you can introduce it a little, such as if it is hard to install into garage. how high the garage should be. Thanks.
Ooooof wish I saw this after wasting my money on this. Just needed a temp fix but it’s hard to connect a completely cut off flex pipe to the CAT converter
Nice thanks. I heard a lot of jb weld but didn't know there was a extremeheat version of it. I think you used high heat but extremeheat is what I'm looking for. Just using it to connect copper fittings to my modded (not-so)-aluminum bottle muffler on my 49cc kick scooter. And I could use a better real-aluminum can because the alloy bottle I have is melting.
Prep the area well with a wire brush and then spray it with brake parts cleaner and apply quickly idle for 10 minutes and then you will have a chance of a couple of days or more until you have to get it properly fixed by welding the new system 😀 👍 😉
$1200 for a new exhaust online (or $1800 locally), or $150 to jerry rig a cheap muffler with a side exit and wrapped the flex pipe. Dodge caravan with 380,000km, worth about $4500 if i fixed it proper and sold it. (Canadian, so prices are still completely insane for literally everything up here) 😮💨
My pipe fell off muffler 2 days ago on freeway. I'm sure pipe had to be sparking. I pulled off, went to gas station ask for a couple zip ties, used for wires. Zipped that pipe puppy up, still holding. Fix for $5 for zip ties...thx gas station 😊
Your advice is very good. More than likely the pipe will rust out in a different location. One quick look online for a Buick Century exhaust pipe (from the cat ) with mufler included, $200 canadian. Not bad
I dont think unrolling it in the water is necessary/ per instructions.?.? Could be wrong as Ive not used this type of stuff in decades . But I believe youre just suppose to submerge the whole roll as is for a specific time frame . Then squeeze out excess water and unroll as you apply it .... again I’ve not used this type of stuff in a dogs age ...& I’m a shade tree mechanic / hack at best 🤙🏼✌🏻
I think the wrap is a good cheap way to kick the can down the road I used it on my 92 Buick roadmaster and it worked perfectly until I hit the same speed bum 6 months later then I used it again and it held until I got rid of the car a year later
So on my 91 Volvo Wagon with most of the exhaust already replaced and a downpipe and cat very difficult to get this could work to buy time to get the parts I need to fix it right.
The product seems to be doing the job as intended. They're not claiming that it will last forever or imply that it's a permanent solution. I'm sure we all know that we'll have to replace the entire exhaust system, but the tape does seem to be a quick fix until you have the time and money for a more permanent solution.
I see heat wrap for what it is. A temporary solution to a problem. In NY as of last year... a loud muffler ticket went drom $100-200 to $1,000-2000. I had a muffler that I KNEW was rotting out. I couldnt afford a new muffler for a month or so. A loud muffler shows as a fix it ticket. You have until sundown of the next business day to fix the issue. I got my ticket, pulled into a parking lot, put a boatload of heat tape onto my muffler, and had it inspected for noise by my police officer neighbor. They signed off the ticket and I avoided a $2,000 fine. If I had the money for a new muffler, I would have spent it. Heat tape lets me temporarily fix a problem anywhere on my exhaust without having to OWN an entirely new exhaust system. WHILE I save for a genuine replacement. The part shown here is one that fully rotted through. 100% of the way around the pipe. Muffler tape wont work. Muffler tape should have been used MONTHS ago when the volume started picking up... while you saved for the parts. You should have had the entire exhaust saved for and replaces at lesst 6 months ago. You're putting a bandaid on a severed limb. Of course it wont work.
Would this work on a jetta diesel plastic turbo pipe, or does it only work on metal exhaust pipe ? Have a hole in the plastic pipe that leads out from the turbo, causing under boost loss of power.
Thats how I was feeling with my latest exhaust repair...."Man, I have $40 into this bullshit when the right fix would have been $150....Should have put that $40 toward the $150."
I don't understand how inexpensive car parts are in the US. It's almost like everything there is subsidized to keep the prices very low. $50 for an exhaust seems unreal. That would be a $300 touch in Canada.
The most important thing to getting hacks like this to work is not necessarily the product itself but it's the preparation that goes into preparing the repair area before applying said product. If you had use brake cleaner on the pipes prior and then grinded the outside sections of pipes to be wrapped down to clean bare metal with the grinder, you probably wouldhave gotten a lot way better and much better air tight seal.. not to mention a much more overall solid repair.. but since the preparation was done so badly I think that this video as a representation of the product and repair method should be null and void.
The other channel you've mentioned is mostly entertainment for me. However, he got a niche and can hustle. Who else can get 2.8M people to watch you wash and buff your car?
I agree his videos are very satisfying to watch and that is a skill that I will never have (or care to) but, plasma cutting a hole in your exhaust isn't reality. You want to really know how to buff? Watch Ammo NYC. Pay attention to Chrisfix when he 'super cleans' something. He plays with the color saturation in his thumbnails and video for the 'after' shots to make them pop. The trees in the background are 'cleaner' than when he started as well lol.
@@RepairGeek He "super cleaned" the trees too.🤣 Unfortunately, not many people has thirst for knowledge. The big channels are all entertainers without much substance. Don't change what you are doing Bro. I learn something from every video of yours, and it applies to reality.
Have you guy ever had any success using this type of stuff?
Links to the products in this video:
Fiberfix: amzn.to/3zC2m2W
JB Weld High Heat:amzn.to/3lsR4Bm
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Great video! HELP! I have a 1997 Mercury Cougar with PI Swapped polished and ported headers. I used the Mustang GT Shorty headers on my Cougar but the EGR Tube had to be relocated to drivers side exhaust manifold. My problem is that the EGR Tube is cracked by the flange. Can't seem to remove the nut. I was thinking of using the JB Weld High Heat paste and a shop vac hooked up to the exhaust to aid pulling the high heat paste through the crack in the flange. Do you recommend this? My last resort before using the High Heat paste is to use an impact chissel to try and knock the nut loose. It was changed in 2011 when I did the swap. I can get a 1-1/8" wrench on it but theres no room to actually turn the wrench.
I wonder if it’s possible to reuse the fiberfix if it doesn’t set the way you want it too
depends you have to sand the rust off & it has to be clean
Not this product specifically but yes, not in a high temp environment but it's still holding up 7 years later.
yes. good success. i even used a soup tin can and clamped it. it worked for few years
You think thats a mess, you should see my "y" pipe. It's in 7 pieces all held together with beer cans, clamps, duct tape, muffler tape, hose clamps, foil tape and stuff I don't even want to mention
does it still work?
seems a good hack is far cheaper than a shop bill
Makes me feel good about mine.
@@That_Blue_WJ long live common sense and clever hacks!
I wasnt hating. Lol. Mine looks like trash itself😂 ive got 3 different pipes clamped into smaller ones about every 2 inches apart😂😂😂
I've used that JB weld product before repairing a cracked metal radiator and it worked great. Couldn't believe it but it did. It was the top part of the radiator though. That product is good for some things. A friend repaired a hole in the bottom of his 2000 Silverado fuel tank and has held up for months
I'm wondering if I bought your car because mine has JB weld in the same place you're describing, although obviously I highly doubt it lol. Not an old Toyota, right?
@@MrBradshawbenjamin If it is his car, I doubt he'd want to admit it, because anyone would feel the new owner will blast them with all kinds of crap about the vehicle. LOL
I did the same thing to fix my radiator a while ago and I was also amazed how easy and cheap a fix it was until a year later it blew again on the freeway and roasted my engine before I noticed/had time to pull in somewhere. It was an older KIA with over 260k on it so not a huge loss but really shoulda just dropped a new radiator in in hindsight. Or at least realized it was a temp fix.
I think the fiber might be OK if the pipe is in general good condition. But as we saw here, your old pipe was failing overall everywhere. It's whack-a-mole to plug holes as new ones pop up.
Whatever your feelings about this stuff, it seems to do the job for which it's intended, though it's not exactly as "strong as steel", except when comparing it to very cheap steel. I would have added an intermediate section and more clamps, but what you did worked for as long as one would expect. I suspect it took a lot longer, even for you, to replace the whole pipe than it would have to put two bandages (or 3 or 4, or 5) on the existing pipe, so it's not an even comparison; for those of us without a lift or a welder, the time difference would be even greater. So, if you are dealing with a car that is already on its last legs, or leak in a system that is already due to be replaced at a later date (say, if you expect the catalytic converter to fail before the next inspection), this tape could buy enough time to make a big difference. In any case, the cost of the tape is trivial; it's more a question of what will make the car drive-able without throwing a lot of time and money into something that will soon end up in the junkyard.
PS: I'm now selling a 172,000 mile car with an exhaust leak and any real repairs would have no hope paying for themselves, so I'll patch it up and tell the buyer that it has been patched. He can decide when, or whether, it's worth it to "do it right" after he's lived with the car for a while.
Jkkk mmkkmmmmm I'm
Jkkk mmkkmmmmm I'm
How can you tell someone that it's fixed. It's like if you put a band-aid on someone's wound that needs to be sewn up and say that it's fine. Anyway, it's called fraud.
@@dusan.racicky It is not fraud if the fact is disclosed. As longer as buyer is given all the information he can decide for himself if he want to buy.
I kind of disagree with "just replace the rest of the pipe". First of all some parts of the exhaust system are very expensive and I know toyotas pretty much have one consecutive piece of exhaust that runs down most of the car with the catalytic converters attached so I would much rather try to patch the exhaust leak than buy a whole new exhaust. Also sometimes exhaust work is much harder In places that salt those bolts usually won't come out and you end up having to cut the exhaust and becomes a whole process meanwhile you could've patched the leak and could last a long time while saving time.
I like this video because of the honesty of it. I'm in a predicament right now where I want to do a quick fix on an exhaust. Usually quick fixes don't work that well. Haven't done one in many years but I remember back when I was young these types of products did not work all that well. I watched the video because I wanted to see if the technology has improved. It's good that we have Internet videos to see how it goes for other people before we go and waste our own time trying these products. It seems as though he didn't wait for the product to cure before revving the engine. I do really appreciate the honesty and realistic nature of this video. At the end it does give some good advice.
I'll also give you good advice to buy a new exhaust. This is a waste of money, time and nerves if it falls off somewhere along the way.
In Toronto Canada, drive an 04 Matrix for all four seasons, automated car washes, snow and road salt... 1 yr later and still going strong. I only got car ramps and jack stands. I figured an almost 20 year old car with a new pipe ranging in price from $150 - $200 plus labour... If I do the heat wrap 15 more years I'd still come out on top. Still going strong
I was blind in one eye and the heat wrap helped cure it
In all fairness this product never claimed to make the whole pipe "like new". If you use this stuff you should know that it is nothing more than a band aid that may hold until suitable repair can be made. In the case of Fixx's repair because of the location and pipe condition I would expect to get a long life of that repair. Great video.
Living in an apartment, with no home garage to work on things, I used muffler tape + a spliced aluminum can + wire to cob together a temporary fix. Likely saved me from a ticket until I could take it to my friend's garage and fix it proper.
That one liner about the exhaust writing checks was awesome! We cracked up. Nice video.
A good honest report , much appreciated.
In an ideal situation, the stuff works, especially if you are just trying to buy an extra year before replacing
No point even trying to wrap that pipe unless your sticking to the guidelines on the packaging. I've used it before with the right measurements and it works brilliant and when dried it has an almost solid hard texture to it so should last a good while.
Yes, on my Corolla the mid pipe is ~$1500 Canadian dollars. So in real money about 50¢. Still in Canada it's a lot of coin. Can buy a lot of heat/muffler tape for that money.
I appreciate your honesty and your attitude! You spoke clearly, the volume was good and the video was clear with good lighting!
I’ve spent $50 the last two years patching the exhaust on my shit car. Saved me over $500 that I’d have to spend on a new exhaust. 10% of the cost to get 2 years of driving out of the 4 years I’ve had it. Patching can be useful.
I'm going to try it on my Chevy 2500 HD, the leak is in the pipe with a build in catalectic converter, and believe it or not, that lousy 3' pipe is over a grand, BLOODY NUTS
If you're concerned about the tape holding then you should have used an old soup can. With both ends of the can removed you cut down the side of the can so you can wrap it around the pipe and put a clamp on it to hold it. I have used soup and soda cans to repair a few things on my cars. I used a soda can to repair the sway bar bracket on my Camry. Good video. Happy Motoring.
yeah right
The lowblow thrown at chris fix was funny. All mufflers and exhausts don't run the same price. So for someone trying to buy some time these patches arent totally useless. With that being said, you should know they wont last forever.
one thing you never wanna hear is that your package has comedic value.
My experience with that heat wrap stuff was that I would have been better off using an ace bandage and saving the $12. Mine got about as hard as a wet noodle. Very un-impressed.
Learn from this guys experience. Also, using a can cut in half to wrap around a hole and then a clamp on both ends works great on straight sections of pipe. Also, if your muffler is at th3 rear of your car, removing it qnd just running a length of flex pipe out the rear works fantastic, albeit a little loud.
I use JB WELD. Plus a can. cut length wise. put the can around the broken pipe and use metal clamps. Cause muffler shops charge too much.
Scotty has talked about this type of product before... I've used it as a temporary solution while I wait for my walker exhaust system
I guess he didn't watch Scotty K., talk about this a few years ago. Scotty, had the same package, he cleaned off the pipe using a metal brush and used a pot of water, and then he wet it again, squeezed the extra water out of it, wrapped the tape around the pipe with a big hole, and after it was on he put the silver tape over it. It works!
I DON'T watch Scotty and I'm smarter for it.
The tape does work I used furnace cement to repair a crack/hole but remember it's only a temporary fix this will be u some time to get it fixed properly u were right in saying what the shape of the exhaust is in b 4 u try something like this
Good video. Your car could use some oil type undercoating since it's starting to rust. Not sure if you live in an area that applies road salt in the winter. I saw your great video on undercoating materials and although I have applied Krown, Rust Check, and the Dominion Seal No-Drip in the past, I just tried the canola oil. Bought 16 litres at Costco for $22 (Canadian) and applied it liberally with a Titan paint sprayer. It applied well and was easy to blast into frame drain holes. The car dripped for 2 or 3 days and I guess time will tell how well it stays on.
Why canola oil ?
LoL!
Have you tried to wd40 it
@@reccocon3442 environmentally friendly
@@reccocon3442 I figured it was just a joke. I'd never do that. Lmao
I used something similar from autozone then took a band clamp and clamped it tight. Only half the radius of the pipe is cracked and I no if not the truck for 1500 2 years ago and this is my first repair so I’m not worried
Have Honda 2002 crv 320,000 miles runs great.. last night someone tried to cut out catalytic Convertor.. however the convertor is bolted to frame. they gave up now have cut tail pipe.
Think I'll give the wrap a try. Did that long time ago to Ford Pinto Muffler.. Worked Great lasted Years.
It's meant for patching holes to buy time until the budget allows for proper replacement.
Joining pipes is stretching it way beyond reason.
Yes You right it's depends the pipe
How old is???
I have a tiny hole on my manifold. Its a truck and not easy to get the part swapped out. Also, the rusty bolts in the head might snap off or not come out at all. So Im willing to try the high heat epoxy and maybe a wrap for now. If it was a tailpipe or muffler, thats a whole different thing and easy to change out.
I think the point of these is to buy time before replacing the entire exhaust system. Not everyone is a welder or can do it themselves and will have to pony up more than a few bucks to most shops. Let's face it, you say $50 or whatever to replace the pipe but we all know any shop is going to mark up even these simple parts quite a bit plus labor...just saying.
That said, based on your demo they seem to work in emergency or last resort type situations as a temp fix....anyone relying on tape and some goop to fix car parts of any kind is really hoping against hope at that point and probably just can't afford to pay for legit repairs.
A short length of exhaust tubing and some muffler clamps would have held up better for about the same money.
Great vid, very professional editing! Subbed Sir
I had a section of connecting pipe before the muffler rot out that looked like it was connected together with a joint? (Not sure what to call it). I went through a long and painful process of cutting that section out and replaced with a flex pipe. Watched many different videos showing different fixes. Eventually went with wrapping the pipe with the red muffler tape on one end and a jb weld wrap on the other end then secured with clamps. Seems to have done the job but only time will tell
that heat wrap looks way different then what was put on my manifold (header wrap) also known as heat wrap. And it wasn't for a hole, it was put on for other reasons, it looked and feels like fabric and stretches around the pipe like what you put on your body for a sprain or to cover wounds. It gave the 4runner a little better gas mileage plus helps with heat. Wasn't my idea, I had never heard of it before. My garage guy put in on. The 4runner was built for off road use and on road. Changed out the crap auto transmission for a 5 speed but kept the automatic axles which are geared different, (I think Toyota used 3 or so different ratios between 88 and 94?) The transmission was from an 89 pickup, the axles are original on the 94 4runner. Let's just say, 4-low is now more like 4-super low! Lots of torque not a lot of top end. Great gas milage. Also replaced the 3.0 for a newer 3.4 out of a 98 4runner limited rollover that I got for cheap. Sold the leather electric seats and that paid for the rollover, the rest I parted out as profit. They really shouldn't call what you got heat wrap, because there are heat wraps that are used in race cars and off road vehicles that increase performance. That stuff you got is more like repair wrap that is heat cured. Kinda different I think?
With fast hands like that I wouldn't need a girlfriend ha ha ha a lmao 🤣
😐
Clever
Pause? ⏸
Sus
@@YungEBT lmao
Got a couple small holes in my exhaust pipe from a welded on hanger pulling loose. Gonna try the putty in the holes and clamp the pipe back to the hanger. The rest of the pipe is still solid so this might last thousands of miles.
I have tried using the heat rap absolutely junk. It starts burning up immediately and within a few days. Your back where you start from repairing the exhaust .
Someone crudely cut out both of my cats in my Subaru Forester and I N-Rigged it with bendable sections of replacement pile from autozone, 4 sticks of JB weld putty, 1 liquid copper tube, Dollar Store Turkey aluminum pan where I cut out layers and 2 and 2.5 inch hose clamps. Three metal hangers to suspend it where it was most needed.. So i started with JB putty and really pushed into the hole and into any crease around Use a flat head screw driver to pis he it deeper. Then put liquid copper all over the putty and past it to exceed the putty and wrap the aluminum around the copper and putty like a pig in a blanket. 3 hose clamps on each section, 1 clamp on the end and one in the middle and tighten. And hour later you are good to go
I'm going to guess it will not hold over time at the muffler/res its not getting enough area to hold onto
If you have the lift to replace the exhaust it is better, without labor cost replacing exhaust is not that expensive. Replacing the whole thing with the car on a jack stand it a bit more dicey. I would also need to replace both O2 sensors also, and those are not coming out.
I like your videos you get straight to the point, keep it going and you had a new subscriber
Jb weld is amazing , for this , who knows.
Thanks for the info. No need to mention Chris Fox though
I don’t know if welding would have been any better. Probably would have done the same as the tape. Put strain on another part of the tube and blew a leak there.
My Mufflers Are Practically Brand New...Its My Exhaust Manifold that is Leaking above the Muffler connection & Between the EGR Tube.
great video. it's called "putting good money after bad."
Hey, I love that you brought up "hey guys", lol. Excellent video, thanks.
Hilarious ...
This is awesome ... Perfect example of an emergency hardwire fix ...
Done on purpose ... Great job ...
I’m going to have to try it now, got under my car to take a look at my wobbly exhaust system and I have a good sized rust hole. The rest of the the pipe has basically no rust so I don’t want to replace the whole thing. In the next few days I’ll try it
Is it holding up?
How’d it go ?
Did it work?
The picture on your package looked like it didn’t instruct you to unwrap the tape but to just soak it in water?
i like your garage hydraulic lifter and i want to buy one too. I wonder if you can introduce it a little, such as if it is hard to install into garage. how high the garage should be. Thanks.
First video I ever made: ua-cam.com/video/9u-e3okXpsI/v-deo.html
What about JB weld steel stick? Or JB weld high heat putty? I've heard good things about them
Ooooof wish I saw this after wasting my money on this. Just needed a temp fix but it’s hard to connect a completely cut off flex pipe to the CAT converter
Nice thanks. I heard a lot of jb weld but didn't know there was a extremeheat version of it. I think you used high heat but extremeheat is what I'm looking for.
Just using it to connect copper fittings to my modded (not-so)-aluminum bottle muffler on my 49cc kick scooter. And I could use a better real-aluminum can because the alloy bottle I have is melting.
Thanks so much for this informative video. I had no idea!
JB weld exhaust repair is the only thing that works besides a welder
I got an old x485 mower with a couple small holes. That blows the exhaust right on the engine so this may be useful for me.
Buy a used muffler from another mower.
I can weld (stick, MIG, TIG), but never welded exhaust. How do you weld such rusted pipe and how do you get a bead on the top area of the pipe?
Prep the area well with a wire brush and then spray it with brake parts cleaner and apply quickly idle for 10 minutes and then you will have a chance of a couple of days or more until you have to get it properly fixed by welding the new system 😀 👍 😉
$1200 for a new exhaust online (or $1800 locally), or $150 to jerry rig a cheap muffler with a side exit and wrapped the flex pipe. Dodge caravan with 380,000km, worth about $4500 if i fixed it proper and sold it.
(Canadian, so prices are still completely insane for literally everything up here) 😮💨
Second comment, I learn so much watching your car repairs. Keep up the great video's.
My pipe fell off muffler 2 days ago on freeway. I'm sure pipe had to be sparking. I pulled off, went to gas station ask for a couple zip ties, used for wires. Zipped that pipe puppy up, still holding. Fix for $5 for zip ties...thx gas station 😊
have used the jb weld, works good some places
I wish a new pipe was as inexpensive as you say it is. The cost here is way way more than that.
Your advice is very good. More than likely the pipe will rust out in a different location. One quick look online for a Buick Century exhaust pipe (from the cat ) with mufler included, $200 canadian. Not bad
I dont think unrolling it in the water is necessary/ per instructions.?.? Could be wrong as Ive not used this type of stuff in decades . But I believe youre just suppose to submerge the whole roll as is for a specific time frame . Then squeeze out excess water and unroll as you apply it .... again I’ve not used this type of stuff in a dogs age ...& I’m a shade tree mechanic / hack at best 🤙🏼✌🏻
Possibly could’ve been reason why it wasn’t as “strong as steel” lol
I think the wrap is a good cheap way to kick the can down the road I used it on my 92 Buick roadmaster and it worked perfectly until I hit the same speed bum 6 months later then I used it again and it held until I got rid of the car a year later
How much heat do you think it can really take I used the high heat jb putty on leaf blower muffler and it melted like gum after 5 minutes
If you blow into the gloves first they are much easier to put on
Tx so much, great video! Liked and subscribed
So on my 91 Volvo Wagon with most of the exhaust already replaced and a downpipe and cat very difficult to get this could work to buy time to get the parts I need to fix it right.
The product seems to be doing the job as intended. They're not claiming that it will last forever or imply that it's a permanent solution. I'm sure we all know that we'll have to replace the entire exhaust system, but the tape does seem to be a quick fix until you have the time and money for a more permanent solution.
Funny, I have the exact same problem on my Fit. Where do you get the exhaust pipe? Only ones I can find are Spoon lol
So if the rest of my pipe is good, the wrap will work? Because my pipe has no rust only a small leak which im planning to use wrap for
The VersaCHem HD exhaust bandage tape is way better. I used it on the end joint of a flex pipe. Its still going after a year
How about removing the corrosion on the pipes before trying to apply the tape?
Leave it as is.. You get more horse-power!
I see heat wrap for what it is. A temporary solution to a problem.
In NY as of last year... a loud muffler ticket went drom $100-200 to $1,000-2000. I had a muffler that I KNEW was rotting out. I couldnt afford a new muffler for a month or so. A loud muffler shows as a fix it ticket. You have until sundown of the next business day to fix the issue.
I got my ticket, pulled into a parking lot, put a boatload of heat tape onto my muffler, and had it inspected for noise by my police officer neighbor. They signed off the ticket and I avoided a $2,000 fine.
If I had the money for a new muffler, I would have spent it. Heat tape lets me temporarily fix a problem anywhere on my exhaust without having to OWN an entirely new exhaust system. WHILE I save for a genuine replacement.
The part shown here is one that fully rotted through. 100% of the way around the pipe. Muffler tape wont work. Muffler tape should have been used MONTHS ago when the volume started picking up... while you saved for the parts.
You should have had the entire exhaust saved for and replaces at lesst 6 months ago.
You're putting a bandaid on a severed limb. Of course it wont work.
Would this work on a jetta diesel plastic turbo pipe, or does it only work on metal exhaust pipe ? Have a hole in the plastic pipe that leads out from the turbo, causing under boost loss of power.
Nice garage bro!!!
Thats how I was feeling with my latest exhaust repair...."Man, I have $40 into this bullshit when the right fix would have been $150....Should have put that $40 toward the $150."
I don't understand how inexpensive car parts are in the US. It's almost like everything there is subsidized to keep the prices very low. $50 for an exhaust seems unreal. That would be a $300 touch in Canada.
Dammit, I need a car lift.
Good vid. Thanks for sharing.
Like the chriz fix thing he makes it look so to easy we all no its not
how do we fix a broken muffler with a missing stub to wrap the tape on?
Love your honesty thank you
should have used the JB on the first fix!
My Lexus exhaust costs $2000 and there's no cheap OEM replacements so I might use the tape.
Stuff does work just not easy wrapping it .
BTW, great Chrisfix impression.
I just tried this and drove around for a few minutes and the tape completely dissolved.
The most important thing to getting hacks like this to work is not necessarily the product itself but it's the preparation that goes into preparing the repair area before applying said product. If you had use brake cleaner on the pipes prior and then grinded the outside sections of pipes to be wrapped down to clean bare metal with the grinder, you probably wouldhave gotten a lot way better and much better air tight seal.. not to mention a much more overall solid repair.. but since the preparation was done so badly I think that this video as a representation of the product and repair method should be null and void.
Sorry I followed the instructions on the package?
Why did you have to weld on your new install? Did the new exhaust not match up with your old cat or did you find another hole?
Existing cat pipe had studs. Tried to remove the nuts and broke the studs off. Just easier to weld it rather than extract and drill 3 broken studs.
Maybe it would work well on a exhaust manifold/cat?
That is what I am thinking too. It needs heat to harden.
No, that tape only works up to 850°F, an exhaust manifold is hotter than that
I tried this on a hole in the bend of my exhaust . It lasted a day and a half before blowing out
The other channel you've mentioned is mostly entertainment for me. However, he got a niche and can hustle. Who else can get 2.8M people to watch you wash and buff your car?
I agree his videos are very satisfying to watch and that is a skill that I will never have (or care to) but, plasma cutting a hole in your exhaust isn't reality.
You want to really know how to buff? Watch Ammo NYC. Pay attention to Chrisfix when he 'super cleans' something. He plays with the color saturation in his thumbnails and video for the 'after' shots to make them pop. The trees in the background are 'cleaner' than when he started as well lol.
@@RepairGeek He "super cleaned" the trees too.🤣 Unfortunately, not many people has thirst for knowledge. The big channels are all entertainers without much substance.
Don't change what you are doing Bro. I learn something from every video of yours, and it applies to reality.
@@RepairGeek lmaoooo
How did you get new muffler so cheap I was quoted 900 bucks for parts
That in canada