That’s excellent work my friend. I also built the JD plasma table. After learning all the fails and trying to make it better, I ended up building an entirely new table. This CNC community is badass!
Most people probably don't need to give up on the 3D printed version. I printed mine in Inland PLA+. Scrapped one out because I forgot to put supports on for the slots, so I decided to test it. I was able to place it on a concrete floor like an upside down "v" and jump on it with one foot (I weight 215lbs). No damage, minor flexing.
@@ThyialIndustries I was really impressed at the time too. Gave me a lot of confidence to incorporate 3d prints in my projects. I actually dug up a video of it out of my text history-- sorry for the low quality. ua-cam.com/video/9ed1r0vspRk/v-deo.html
@@ThyialIndustries I was surprised too-- gave me a lot of confidence using 3d prints in my projects. Found and old video of it, sorry for the low quality-- ua-cam.com/video/9ed1r0vspRk/v-deo.html
I know everyone's probably mentioned this already, but print orientation, temperature, and wall counts are all very integral to the atrength of the 3D printed parts.
@@WaldoG-b9j really depends on the software you want to use. I have a custom build and use both solidworks and fusion 360. But I've also been using inkscape lately just to generate dxf's. And that's been my favorite so far
@@WaldoG-b9j 🤣 idk man. I think anything the meets the recommendation of the software should be fine. At the end of the it's better to just get started then wait or spend money on equipment
I have to defend 3D printing a little bit because: I literally dissected and made my own part (in precise metric measurements, since I'm european), aaand printed it from two parts! No weird weak L shape, just two beautiful plates bolted together. I also used PLA+ (PLA enhanced with other plastics) with which I do a lot of moving parts. Bolts are also threaded into robust brass inserts, where I could I replaced plastic threads with captive stainless nuts. It cost me just time. But yeah, I dream of having alu parts one day too 😂
I think if i really wanted... i could have made the 3d printed parts work. (More practice printing, and redesign). But i think i just liked aluminum way to much.
The 3d print should have been printed in its side, that way the layers are printed around the corner, stacking them on a weak point is asking for a break, also more skin layers 6 is a good starting point.. like what your doing keep it up..
thanks for the tip. I figured i did something wrong with that. I havent heard any one else complain. I've only used my printer a handful of times. still a lot to learn!
Sadly JD sell that on their website printed like you see here in the video. I decided to print it from two parts and bolt it together rather then printing on it's side because I was afraid holes won't be precise enough
@@mrkonrady22With certain materials and the right settings it doesn't really matter what orientation you print your parts. The part basically becomes a uniform crystal. When you break it you can't see the 3dp lines in it anymore.
@ThyialIndustries that's incredible. I'm about to smash that buy button on Amazon. Do you think it would be possible for me to make my cutting area 4x6 or do you think your design would be limited to 3.5x4.5?
@@danielwilbanks-z7o I think you might start running into problems with accuracy over that amount of length. Especially with the thinner walled square tubing. Maybe go to a fully welded frame?
I don't use the ones off of Amazon. stepper online is my preferred choice. If you go to the website they have kits available with drivers, power supplies and motors
@@danielwilbanks-z7o depends on what you want. I grabbed a 3-axis nema-23 kit and a smaller NEMA 23 single axis kit. Would recommend shipping from a US warehouse
I would be carefuil about the sparks burning and/or melting the belts... Perhaps you could add a metallic shield above the actual plasma tool? Or isolate the belts with some kind of metal tubing or glass tubing... or maybe polycarbonate.
@@ThyialIndustries Still, but I just had a potential idea for a solution. Some kind of cover along the sides, which the moving gantry then takes along with it. Yes, it would poke out at either far end of the machine, ofc, which could be awkward, but it would save you the little money that the belts do cost in the long run. A dollar saved is a dollar made. It can be as simple as clear acrylic, or clear polycarbonate. Or very, very thin sheet metal. Rectangular. If you do this, use material as light as possible to keep the speed up, ofc. Not too much wobble, though, as stiffness of the gantry increases the speed you can do just as much as lowering innertia.
Have you considered simplifying the design in order to reduce the price of that bearing block? I.e. Mounting the torch clamps directly to the block to remove a part and the slot on the face, using supported round rails on the gantry instead of the custom ball bearing setup to greatly reduce the machining required. If you switch to a 50x100mm / 2x4in (vertical) gantry, it would allow you to put two rails across the front, meaning that the "bearing block" is now just a flat plate that you could plasma cut out of thicker steel. (Then you can use some folded steel with a welded gusset for the motor support) That's the approach I'm leaning towards on my build, I just thought I'd point that out because the supported round rails are really cheap especially when you consider custom parts like this.
I've definitely seen that style before. But with this being my first build and all... i figured i would just try and get it done rather than trying to perfect each aspect. there's definitely a lot of improvements that can be made from cost to accuracy to ease of assembly. Im just taking one step at a time!
Man i shouldn't have watched now i want that not just the aluminum x,z part but the dual driven axis i like it all hmmmm very nice im with you on the 3dp stuff and i did print mine in petg at 100% infill i doubt it will last very long was thinking of trying to extend a shaft from one side to the other to tie the y's together either way i gotta build a complete other side all my electrical and electronics are done
Just buy the actual replacement components for a Langmuir. They are made in China and the company sells direct to consumer as those crazy machines are white labeled. The JD crap is nothing more than a total knock off 3d replica of a bad and overpriced machine.
you need a more volume, the set-up time it's long a lot a tool, a lot of set-up . you need try 50 or 100 pcs , the raw material it's pricy , come in 20 foot long i think i charge the bar for your job
Their ideas aren’t their ideas. JD directly copied (badly) the horrible Langmuir machine. In fact the Langmuir machine is actually a Chinese table once fraudulently branded as a USA machine. There’s not a single original component or design on the JD machine besides the swap from Langmuirs flimsy ACME screws to belts. Other then that they copied every single component including the linear bearing blocks.
There is such a misunderstanding of 3D printing strength and infill. Infill has very little to do with overall part strength. It does have an affect, but not like most people think. The main contributor to strength is wall thickness. The more wall layers you have the stronger the part will be. The material you use is also a major factor. PLA is for making cheap prototypes and benchy's to sit on a shelf. The parts need to be made of something better like ABS or PETG, etc. With that said, aluminum was definitely a good choice here though. I am going down the same road of making the plasma cutter exactly to their plans, then upgrade where I see downfalls
I think that's well said. I've been experimenting and researching more with my 3d prints and have five that to be true. But I still like the aluminum a lot more
That’s excellent work my friend. I also built the JD plasma table. After learning all the fails and trying to make it better, I ended up building an entirely new table. This CNC community is badass!
@@GroundedConceptsLLC agreed, everyone is super helpful, and definitely not shy in telling you want would work better! 🤣
Would you recommend building one of these or going with something else now that you’ve done it
@christopherkrammer9433 dlod your doing this for a hobby. I would build it. If you want to start making money buy the langmuir pro.
Most people probably don't need to give up on the 3D printed version. I printed mine in Inland PLA+. Scrapped one out because I forgot to put supports on for the slots, so I decided to test it. I was able to place it on a concrete floor like an upside down "v" and jump on it with one foot (I weight 215lbs). No damage, minor flexing.
@@Brandon.S123 if that's true. That's crazy lol
@@ThyialIndustries I was really impressed at the time too. Gave me a lot of confidence to incorporate 3d prints in my projects. I actually dug up a video of it out of my text history-- sorry for the low quality. ua-cam.com/video/9ed1r0vspRk/v-deo.html
@@ThyialIndustries I was surprised too-- gave me a lot of confidence using 3d prints in my projects. Found and old video of it, sorry for the low quality-- ua-cam.com/video/9ed1r0vspRk/v-deo.html
I know everyone's probably mentioned this already, but print orientation, temperature, and wall counts are all very integral to the atrength of the 3D printed parts.
@@ndog1234765 I have since figured this out. It dramatically improves print durability. But..... You get beat the aluminum piece. It's just to crispy
@ThyialIndustries If I had the capability for aluminium, I would join you immediately. But it's amazing how strong a 3D print can be.
What computer you recommend for cad cam and cnc programming what computer you use thanks great stuff
@@WaldoG-b9j really depends on the software you want to use. I have a custom build and use both solidworks and fusion 360. But I've also been using inkscape lately just to generate dxf's. And that's been my favorite so far
@@ThyialIndustries what desktop you use for those software
@@WaldoG-b9j it's a custom built pc
@ThyialIndustries what desktop you start with? If you could of started all over what desktop you recommend
@@WaldoG-b9j 🤣 idk man. I think anything the meets the recommendation of the software should be fine. At the end of the it's better to just get started then wait or spend money on equipment
I have to defend 3D printing a little bit because: I literally dissected and made my own part (in precise metric measurements, since I'm european), aaand printed it from two parts! No weird weak L shape, just two beautiful plates bolted together. I also used PLA+ (PLA enhanced with other plastics) with which I do a lot of moving parts. Bolts are also threaded into robust brass inserts, where I could I replaced plastic threads with captive stainless nuts. It cost me just time. But yeah, I dream of having alu parts one day too 😂
I think if i really wanted... i could have made the 3d printed parts work. (More practice printing, and redesign). But i think i just liked aluminum way to much.
I would like to buy the aluminum machined pieces, do you offer them, or a link to them
@@ttcnc3755 I'll be posting then on my website soon. Thyialindustries com
The 3d print should have been printed in its side, that way the layers are printed around the corner, stacking them on a weak point is asking for a break, also more skin layers 6 is a good starting point.. like what your doing keep it up..
thanks for the tip. I figured i did something wrong with that. I havent heard any one else complain. I've only used my printer a handful of times. still a lot to learn!
Sadly JD sell that on their website printed like you see here in the video. I decided to print it from two parts and bolt it together rather then printing on it's side because I was afraid holes won't be precise enough
@@mrkonrady22With certain materials and the right settings it doesn't really matter what orientation you print your parts. The part basically becomes a uniform crystal. When you break it you can't see the 3dp lines in it anymore.
What was the finished dimension? What is its capability?
3.5ish x 4.5ish and can cut up to 5/8" ca bon steel
@ThyialIndustries that's incredible. I'm about to smash that buy button on Amazon. Do you think it would be possible for me to make my cutting area 4x6 or do you think your design would be limited to 3.5x4.5?
@@danielwilbanks-z7o I think you might start running into problems with accuracy over that amount of length. Especially with the thinner walled square tubing. Maybe go to a fully welded frame?
I've ordered everything today and I'm down to the stepper motors. Can you let me know the exact ones to get or point me to an Amazon equivalent?
I don't use the ones off of Amazon. stepper online is my preferred choice. If you go to the website they have kits available with drivers, power supplies and motors
@ThyialIndustries I'm on thier website now. There are alot of options. Which ones do I need?
@ThyialIndustries I'm on thier site now. There are alot of options. Can you point me to the right one to buy?
@ThyialIndustries 3-DM542T-S30 is it this kit?
@@danielwilbanks-z7o depends on what you want. I grabbed a 3-axis nema-23 kit and a smaller NEMA 23 single axis kit. Would recommend shipping from a US warehouse
I would be carefuil about the sparks burning and/or melting the belts... Perhaps you could add a metallic shield above the actual plasma tool? Or isolate the belts with some kind of metal tubing or glass tubing... or maybe polycarbonate.
@@Luka1180 the betls are cheap enough that if the do break I can replace them very easily. But that's not a terrible idea
@@ThyialIndustries Still, but I just had a potential idea for a solution. Some kind of cover along the sides, which the moving gantry then takes along with it. Yes, it would poke out at either far end of the machine, ofc, which could be awkward, but it would save you the little money that the belts do cost in the long run. A dollar saved is a dollar made. It can be as simple as clear acrylic, or clear polycarbonate. Or very, very thin sheet metal. Rectangular. If you do this, use material as light as possible to keep the speed up, ofc. Not too much wobble, though, as stiffness of the gantry increases the speed you can do just as much as lowering innertia.
@@Luka1180 that could definitely work 🤔
Nice man! I need these Aluminum ones in my life. What’s the cost and can I order them from you vendor or you directly?
@@JPSTREETPERFORMANCE keep an eye out for a post on my community page or website. I should be listing it soon
@@ThyialIndustries awesome thanks man. Will do.
Please reach out, id be interested in seeing if i can help you with those parts..
The aluminum ones?
@@ThyialIndustries yes
Have you considered simplifying the design in order to reduce the price of that bearing block? I.e. Mounting the torch clamps directly to the block to remove a part and the slot on the face, using supported round rails on the gantry instead of the custom ball bearing setup to greatly reduce the machining required. If you switch to a 50x100mm / 2x4in (vertical) gantry, it would allow you to put two rails across the front, meaning that the "bearing block" is now just a flat plate that you could plasma cut out of thicker steel. (Then you can use some folded steel with a welded gusset for the motor support)
That's the approach I'm leaning towards on my build, I just thought I'd point that out because the supported round rails are really cheap especially when you consider custom parts like this.
I've definitely seen that style before. But with this being my first build and all... i figured i would just try and get it done rather than trying to perfect each aspect. there's definitely a lot of improvements that can be made from cost to accuracy to ease of assembly. Im just taking one step at a time!
@@ThyialIndustries That's fair, I look forward to seeing your next video and seeing your experiences as you put it to work.
@@yngndrw. Thanks I'll do my best
Man i shouldn't have watched now i want that not just the aluminum x,z part but the dual driven axis i like it all hmmmm very nice im with you on the 3dp stuff and i did print mine in petg at 100% infill i doubt it will last very long was thinking of trying to extend a shaft from one side to the other to tie the y's together either way i gotta build a complete other side all my electrical and electronics are done
Awesome! Sounds like you're almost there. And yeah having the larger cutting area has been awesome
Just buy the actual replacement components for a Langmuir. They are made in China and the company sells direct to consumer as those crazy machines are white labeled. The JD crap is nothing more than a total knock off 3d replica of a bad and overpriced machine.
Nice work 👍
Thanks you sir 🙏
Hey great video!
Hey, thanks!
you need a more volume, the set-up time it's long a lot a tool, a lot of set-up . you need try 50 or 100 pcs , the raw material it's pricy , come in 20 foot long i think i charge the bar for your job
@@monsieurb24 not at that point in business... But would love to get there some day
👍🏻🤜🏻
:)
Their ideas aren’t their ideas. JD directly copied (badly) the horrible Langmuir machine. In fact the Langmuir machine is actually a Chinese table once fraudulently branded as a USA machine. There’s not a single original component or design on the JD machine besides the swap from Langmuirs flimsy ACME screws to belts. Other then that they copied every single component including the linear bearing blocks.
This is exactly what I've been trying to tell everyone.
There is such a misunderstanding of 3D printing strength and infill. Infill has very little to do with overall part strength. It does have an affect, but not like most people think. The main contributor to strength is wall thickness. The more wall layers you have the stronger the part will be. The material you use is also a major factor. PLA is for making cheap prototypes and benchy's to sit on a shelf. The parts need to be made of something better like ABS or PETG, etc. With that said, aluminum was definitely a good choice here though. I am going down the same road of making the plasma cutter exactly to their plans, then upgrade where I see downfalls
I think that's well said. I've been experimenting and researching more with my 3d prints and have five that to be true. But I still like the aluminum a lot more
@@ThyialIndustries For sure. Aluminum is a perfect material if you plan to really run this machine hard.