From what I've researched, you need a low frequency with blowback plasmacutter. Also, I would remove the controller from the frame of the machine and put it on a piece of wood or plastic
I have a blow back plasma cutter touch cut-*****ds pro 70 psi postflow 110v 1/8 in metal and cant get the dam thing to keep a pilot arc when only cutting metal by it self.... the table is done with reply 12v 5v pmw single with content 5v Update there was a problem with plasma cutter machine replacement the machine and problem went with it...
I used to work for a company who laser cut a lot of steel, we used support slats for the material being cut, this was a strip of steel like yours with a series of spikes (like a series of conjoined triangles) this reduced the contact points with the material being cut, allowing the molten metal to get away from the cut line, reducing the slag build up. These support slats get eroded away (we replaced every month or so). This should give you a cleaner continual cut!
You got the hardware done, and excellently! For the relay you were so close. You have to know that you were wrong with measuring the 12V at the laser connector. These are digital signal controlled, meaning, it gives 5V but digitally, you have to look for a 5V PWM relay, hook that up to the laser connector and hook up your 2 trigger wires to your plasma cutter. Also, the controller is better removed from the frame, and lastly, ground your plasma table to your plasma cutter, this should clear up the RF interference. Please order the 5V PWM relay and you have a professional machine that will trigger at the right time!
You are so inspiring Sir! Audaciously creative. Reminds me of the movie Apollo 13 scene where NASA engineers created CO2 filter out of pile of junks. We need more of this can-do attitude! Bravo~~
I actually had this exact idea. This is down the road though. It'll be kinda convenient since I'm very good with Lightburn and so I will be able to use that for designing things. I've got a pretty good laser setup right now, next is a CNC for wood but after that a plasma cutter for metals. Thanks for showing me that my idea is actually doable! Nice work!
I love this. People are hating for whatever reason but its super innovative and works well enough. Plus its scaleable and upgradeable and is a perfect setup for starting out wirhout breaking the bank. Im going to use the hynade cnc which is non HF and see if i can get them to talk still.
Thank you!! That is exactly why I made this. It was simple enough and inexpensive. There are some hurdles to overcome but they are pretty straight forward. It sounds like you are off to a good start. Thanks for not being a hater : )
Yeah, it works and definitely better than nothing, but for just a bit more money you can have an excellent table with torch height control and lead in. Everyone should have a CNC plasma table. It's a game changer.
Cool I have an old 10 watt machine hanging on the wall not that I've bought a 70 watt laser. I might try this with my old laser and plasma cutter. I always thought that there needed to be a manual trigger for the plasma.
Thanks for sharing this project, I think that the quality of the cuts can be improved by the quality of the compressed air using an adequate filter. Nice simple and effective project I personally prefer not to weld the table slats in order to make them replaceable and to put a water tank underneath. Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
I agree with you on the air filter and having replaceable slats! The slats are already messed up from use. Making them replaceable would have been much easier.
Since watching your video I found JD garage. They really got on top of an arduino, right down to measuring current and setting torch height dynamically from it. You'll find them on UA-cam
Highly recommend a blow-back style low frequency plasma torch.. I’m using the Hynade with a pencil torch. On my second dedicated plasma build. The inverter is causing a lot of feedback and ground loop interference with the unshielded electronics on your cnc machine. Great work though buddy! Super awesome
Wow thank you so much! I'm just in here trying to make something out of nothing. I appreciate the advice and kind words. I am eager to make improvements to this machine : )
thank you for the interesting video. I've subscribed. Can you suggest me a welder machine please? And if Vevor has one of them in their catalog? Thanks
Hi! Thank you, there are many welder processes out there. I assume you are looking for a MIG welder. If you want an entry level machine that still has plenty of features, check out Bestarc. I made a video on one of their machines and I was happy with it.
You should draw a line leading into the pattern that you are cutting. Then a line leading away from the part that you cut. As for the parts, draw the shapes that match your parts instead of tracing over top of the image. You'll get perfect results. Congratulations on your build and excellent video. Sincerely Robert
excellent video, congratulations.... a question: Can you do something similar but with a laser cutter or does the cost increase too much??? I would like a laser that cuts up to 6mm
Sorry for how I write. I am Italian and I use Google Translate. Perhaps the relay problem could be caused by the absence of a diode that prevents the induced currents of the coil from returning to the machine. I have a plasma that cuts sheet metal up to 20 millimeters. The user manual says that when you do not use the 1 millimeter nozzle (for small thickness cuts), but you use the 1.2 or 1.3 millimeter nozzle, you must keep it raised by at least a couple of millimeters. This is to avoid damaging the nozzle, the electrode and to improve the quality of the cut. Also in your case, since there is no contact between the nozzle and the piece to be cut, you solve the problem of losing steps in the motors. I hope it can help you.
I built a machine very similar to this and it works phonemical. (relay works on my machine and happy to show you what it took.) I think your doing things the hard way on the software side of things. Fusion is an order of magnitude more powerful. Lemme know if you want a hand doing some of the more advanced stuff with it.
Cool! I wasn't sure if fusion 360 would compute over well with this setup. I am new to the CAD process which shows in my video. Im happy to take all the help i can get.
with the order of magnitude more power comes great complexity I've found Fashion 360 exceptional for 3d modelling and machining but in the 2 d space and profile cutting i find it heaps harder to use and not more capable than on shape Lightburn Inkscape.. the way inscape can trace an image into DXF is heaps better than anything similar in fusion the way light burn has a good control interphase with the machine is also terrific things like being able to rotate the part on the table 15 degrees just before you cut .. I'm interested to know what "more powerful" from fusion is of advantage in a profile cutting arrangement.
@@incolink I'm new to this and still trying to educate through my slow learning curve. I dont have any experience in cad drawing but I am interested in working with whatever product will work for me. I only brought up fusion because I "heard" it was a good product. Thank you for your input.
@@scantronsgarage yeh i feel its a good product in the particular scenario you are making more complicated 3 d parts with more complicated machinery .But my experience (limited yes) has been in the profile cutting set ups like this other systems are easier . So to make a single profile cut part i think fusion 360 is it horrible how ever if you want to make very elaborate full sheet metal rear subframe with self jigging tounge joints you can model the entire thing is fusion make parts with folds and fit them all together then unfold them and lay them out on a sheet and profile cut them then email out a handfull of shaft and other parts .But it takes a while to learn yeh there is heaps of training stuff on you tube you just have to put the time in
You know you can remove like 70% of the torch head if this is a dedicated setup the whole trigger section right up to the head would be very easy to remove.. Also you can easily super sized this 2x 8ft rails 3x 4ft rails and like 3 belts from a china website.. You would also have to make some minor firmware settings changes to accept the huge cutting area... Im thinking about building one myself
@@scantronsgarage It should be super easy just figure out how to do a update on it and tell it the increased bed size.. Theres a video supersized 3d printer where someone made a 1m cube printer.. Worst case you have to get the PN off of the control board and then search how to flash new firmware or updated firmware to it..
Yes it will cut it depending on the strength of your machine. The cut50 I am using will cut 3/8 no problem. You only need to slow the cut speed in the program. I am preparing to make some 3/8 suspension brackets with this machine next.
If I were you I would use onshape to design your parts. Its a free CAD that's almost exactly like solidworks, and you can export your part faces as DFX files to laser or plasma cut in lightburn. Also I thought it was funny how you were welding with no gloves at all haha
Oh! this is good information. Thank you for sharing. I will try doing this as soon as I get some time. Thank you. And, I wear welding gloves.....sometimes : /
You can get the two pin plugs online,look for two pin CB microphone plugs, I have done this for my tig welder trigger and the foot pedal. To stop the HF interference you need a choke and a couple of ferrite beads in the trigger line.
Thanks!!! I looked up these parts. I believe your wiring skills and knowledge is much higher than mine. I wouldn't even begin to know what to do with these components unfortunately.
I’m setting up something very similar, so very helpful video mate. One thing I can’t work out is how you compensate for the thickness of the cut in the software. I’d be using lightburn too, so any info would be great 👍🏻
In light burn, you need to just adjust the cut speed to compensate for the material thickness. I breezed over this in the video but I also have the cut speed recommendations listed in the video description for your reference. Good luck with your build and please tell me what you learn in the process so I can improve my machine. Thank you
This project occurred to me 2 months ago, but I didn't dare to start it yet. This video is a great help, thank you. But can't you make an additional video for this video so that you don't have to manually press to start the plasma cutter, but the plasma cutter starts when the laser is started by the factory machine itself?
You can use fusion360 for your designs and import them into light burn. Light burn has the worst design tools but it makes up for everything else. Also i found that if the controller box is always atleast 6 feet away from the machine it shouldn't malfunction or break.
Thank you for the information. Light Burn is certainly difficult to create with. Importing designs in sounds like an excellent idea. I also plan on moving the controller box away. You know how it is, I was too excited to try this out rather than making the additional needed changes first.
Fusion 360 screwed the hobbyists and I will never touch their product again. I think in the long run, a low frequency plasma cutter will take a lot less workarounds and provide better reliability. Yes, they cost more, but your time is worth something too.
I am about to order the laser engraver to get this setup going in my shop. Did you get the PWM relay added to your machine yet? If so, are you able to show which one you used and how it is wired? I greatly appreciate it. Guys like you make it better for guys like me that want a cheap/simple solution to a very costly process. Thank you!
I have not made the needed upgrades needed to make this fully automated. I have been busy cutting some addition parts needed and have just been using the thumb button. The upgrades are still on my to do list
The frequencies from the plasma cuter will end up playing hell with a lot of your control wiring. You can get back to the relay if you use shielded/grounded wiring like even old cable TV wire. Also look into optocoupled switches.
I think you could use a 5V relay switch or a Solid State Relay connected to the board Pin that is usually used to activate the laser´s air pump, and in lightburn just check the USE AIR option. You have to find the right pins on your board, but afaik all have one by default. In the laser cutter the air is used as soon as the laser is active, so this pin should trigger at the same time and can be used to activate the plasma tool.
ooh!! this sounds like a great idea! Thank you! I will try this with my revisions to the machine. Sounds a little over my head but I will work through it.
@ 15:18 play that back in slow motion u will see the sparks blowing back right into the belt that controls the machine. That will ruin the belt and or throw off the machine over time. Also without that. regardless how the hose for the plasma cutter is held its still way more resistance than a tiny floating laser engraving head on the hardware that moves it. Be sure to order lots of extra belts. Like your press i can defiantly see copying you in a few months but ill make darn sure i can get spare belts before i pick the brand. BTW the plasma cutter link you have is dead as of 12/23/24. awesome project
I noticed the p. Cutter jumping when either the air or the p cutter was activated. You might want th include a brace to the p cutter handle. Nice work on that idea.
As of yet no unfortunately. It seems I may have fried the trigger in the controller when first testing the machine. I should have shielded the wires and re located the controller prior to testing. I connected the laser head back on and this would not trigger either.
if it cuts a circle it should kick off the arc on the inside, in a waste portion, then move into the functional cut. you're getting some nasty blowout where the arc is sparking initially.
Not yet unfortunately. I may have fried the controller that drives the switch. I put the laser head back on and that would not trigger either. It seems I should have shielded the wires and moved the controller further away before testing the machine.
Nice!!! Thank you!! My free trial with light burn expired and has discouraged me from working with it. I will certainly try it! Thank you again Jonathan
Changing wiring later? Include that, work out all the bugs, make another video. I've done these jobs before the computer became integrated into most systems, but arthritis, multiple fused joints and cataracts, I'd need a complete video beginning to end with my gaps in computer knowledge. I understood the instructions, but not the changes you spoke of making off camera, or "later." Otherwise, I got it. Good video, just a bit incomplete to someone with limited computer savvy.
Thanks!!!! I am not computer savvy either which may explain my lapse in being able to explain the process any better. I guess the idea is you gotta play around with the program a bit to get familiar with it. As far as the wiring goes, I think the trigger switch is the way to go. It was simple and easy. Also, I hear you with the joint pain and arthritis. My hands are starting to give up on me which is wat motivated me to make this.
The relay didn't worked because you used the signal of the laser cutter on the same path as the signal that went into the machine, you should have the signal coming from the laser engraver to the signal of the relay, all grounds on ground, 12v to the relay and then power to the source (plasma cutter). It may sound confusing but if you follow the diagram of the relay you might understand it a bit better.
Your perce cut has to be on the outside of the line from the projected piece that you try to make. The bottom line as always, you get what you pay for...
to block the EMF noise try using some ferrite magnet cores around the the wiring that you suspect. Grounding is also key and you could try using foil shielded cabling
Your system will never be stable. You must use double shielded cable for all wires with drain wires running to common ground, dont use usb cable to drive system (very unstable), ground everything with a common ground point, low frequency blowback cutter etc. Unfortunately with cnc Plasma systems there is no cheap and easy way to get a system stable. Hypertherm got some good info how to ground your system.
The plasma cuts were very sloppy. The video was good but the plasma cutting should have been perfect with no gouging of the part. The cutting should have started in the non-part.
Rubber belts and plastic parts aren’t going to hold up long. Having used plasma for years your cut quality was really poor, the idea of using plasma is to have little to no cleanup of the parts cut. You could have done a lot better making a template and doing it by hand.
Got it. So buy a welder.....more money......buy metal ......... more money.......buy the plasma cutter $198 .......... buy laser engraver.........more money..........ha ha ha alot more than $300...........
From what I've researched, you need a low frequency with blowback plasmacutter. Also, I would remove the controller from the frame of the machine and put it on a piece of wood or plastic
Yes thank you. This is certainly going to get some future upgrades.
I have a blow back plasma cutter touch cut-*****ds pro 70 psi postflow 110v 1/8 in metal and cant get the dam thing to keep a pilot arc when only cutting metal by it self.... the table is done with reply 12v 5v pmw single with content 5v
Update there was a problem with plasma cutter machine replacement the machine and problem went with it...
I used to work for a company who laser cut a lot of steel, we used support slats for the material being cut, this was a strip of steel like yours with a series of spikes (like a series of conjoined triangles) this reduced the contact points with the material being cut, allowing the molten metal to get away from the cut line, reducing the slag build up. These support slats get eroded away (we replaced every month or so). This should give you a cleaner continual cut!
Yes! I will have to make that upgrade. I am already seeing the wear through on my slats. Thank you for your advice : )
nice. I used to do a lot of laser cutting on 24Kw fiber lasers. those things are insane.
We had removable slats, flip over when worn, then replace. Cut a "comb" to drop them in.
man i love it when i see ppl like him making their own tools
thank you so much!
You got the hardware done, and excellently! For the relay you were so close. You have to know that you were wrong with measuring the 12V at the laser connector. These are digital signal controlled, meaning, it gives 5V but digitally, you have to look for a 5V PWM relay, hook that up to the laser connector and hook up your 2 trigger wires to your plasma cutter. Also, the controller is better removed from the frame, and lastly, ground your plasma table to your plasma cutter, this should clear up the RF interference. Please order the 5V PWM relay and you have a professional machine that will trigger at the right time!
Awesome! I believe that was the information I was missing. Thank you for sharing! I am excited to try this.
@@scantronsgarage I am excited for you as well! Please keep us posted how it's going! I subbed!
@@makingcookingfixing I will! Thank You!
@@scantronsgarage
Hi
Is there any conclusion?
I have the same problem
@@sagimesalem6864 not yet unfortunately. I have just been using the machine with the thumb switch. I have other things I have had to work on lately.
That is so cool. To have a CNC plasma cutter in your home for under 500 bucks. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
It doesn't work.
You are so inspiring Sir! Audaciously creative. Reminds me of the movie Apollo 13 scene where NASA engineers created CO2 filter out of pile of junks. We need more of this can-do attitude! Bravo~~
Haha.. Thats too funny. It does remind me of that scene in the movie. Thank you so much : )
This is genius! Thanks for sharing your thought process. 🧠👏🏽
Thank you! and i'm happy you enjoyed the video !
I actually had this exact idea. This is down the road though. It'll be kinda convenient since I'm very good with Lightburn and so I will be able to use that for designing things. I've got a pretty good laser setup right now, next is a CNC for wood but after that a plasma cutter for metals. Thanks for showing me that my idea is actually doable! Nice work!
This should come easy to you then. Setting up the machine was easy. I spent more time trying to learn the program.
I build cnc router and laser machines. I saw all the mistakes you made, but all said i think you did a great job on a budget. WELL DONE!!!
Thank you! and yes I am totally new to this skill set
Vevor makes awesome tools. You sir, make awesome videos! Thank you
Yes they do and thank you for the compliment!!
Definitely an awesome idea I will have to try!
Yes. this was a fun project
thnx very much am looking forward to geting this set up
Awesome! Glad this helped you out
I see the punisher with the silver thin line. That’s what is used for corrections. Very nice 👍 retired C/O.
Yes it is! enjoy retirement. I got six more years left
Set an arc start point a few mm away from your profile to avoid the nick in the edge, which could lead to cracking on a stressed part.
ooh good tip. That would improve the outcome greatly. Thank you
Awesome idea. I love it when a plan comes together like this.
Me too!Thank you. I just have a few bugs to work out yet though
I love this. People are hating for whatever reason but its super innovative and works well enough. Plus its scaleable and upgradeable and is a perfect setup for starting out wirhout breaking the bank. Im going to use the hynade cnc which is non HF and see if i can get them to talk still.
Thank you!! That is exactly why I made this. It was simple enough and inexpensive. There are some hurdles to overcome but they are pretty straight forward. It sounds like you are off to a good start. Thanks for not being a hater : )
Great project thankyou for the upload
Glad you enjoyed it
Yeah, it works and definitely better than nothing, but for just a bit more money you can have an excellent table with torch height control and lead in. Everyone should have a CNC plasma table. It's a game changer.
You are absolutely right. The torch height control is worth the extra money
great project, love it !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool I have an old 10 watt machine hanging on the wall not that I've bought a 70 watt laser. I might try this with my old laser and plasma cutter. I always thought that there needed to be a manual trigger for the plasma.
Yes, Sounds like you have everything you need
Thanks for sharing this project, I think that the quality of the cuts can be improved by the quality of the compressed air using an adequate filter. Nice simple and effective project I personally prefer not to weld the table slats in order to make them replaceable and to put a water tank underneath. Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
I agree with you on the air filter and having replaceable slats! The slats are already messed up from use. Making them replaceable would have been much easier.
Great video. Thanks. Have a look at using an arduino instead of a relay. Please let us know when you make further mods
OOHHH.... Am Arduino! That is a great idea. I have no experience working with them but I will have to look into that.
Since watching your video I found JD garage. They really got on top of an arduino, right down to measuring current and setting torch height dynamically from it. You'll find them on UA-cam
@@GPZ_Biker I will check it out! Thank you!
Excellent start!
Thank you! With some added improvements, I think this will be great
Highly recommend a blow-back style low frequency plasma torch.. I’m using the Hynade with a pencil torch. On my second dedicated plasma build. The inverter is causing a lot of feedback and ground loop interference with the unshielded electronics on your cnc machine. Great work though buddy! Super awesome
Wow thank you so much! I'm just in here trying to make something out of nothing. I appreciate the advice and kind words. I am eager to make improvements to this machine : )
thank you for the interesting video. I've subscribed. Can you suggest me a welder machine please? And if Vevor has one of them in their catalog? Thanks
Hi! Thank you, there are many welder processes out there. I assume you are looking for a MIG welder. If you want an entry level machine that still has plenty of features, check out Bestarc. I made a video on one of their machines and I was happy with it.
You should draw a line leading into the pattern that you are cutting. Then a line leading away from the part that you cut. As for the parts, draw the shapes that match your parts instead of tracing over top of the image. You'll get perfect results. Congratulations on your build and excellent video.
Sincerely Robert
Thank you Robert. This is helpful information on a skill I am still learning. Thank you
Very helpful video.. Thanks....
What about relay? Any update for automatic switching the plasma..?
Not yet, I have been lazy and just using the thumb button
excellent video, congratulations....
a question: Can you do something similar but with a laser cutter or does the cost increase too much???
I would like a laser that cuts up to 6mm
Yes you could. I do not have a laser cutter at my disposal to experiment with though
Aw man i need this
Not a bad addition to the garage
Light burn also has an image tracing feature that will automate that part of your workflow.
cool! I will have to try that, thank you
Sorry for how I write. I am Italian and I use Google Translate. Perhaps the relay problem could be caused by the absence of a diode that prevents the induced currents of the coil from returning to the machine. I have a plasma that cuts sheet metal up to 20 millimeters. The user manual says that when you do not use the 1 millimeter nozzle (for small thickness cuts), but you use the 1.2 or 1.3 millimeter nozzle, you must keep it raised by at least a couple of millimeters. This is to avoid damaging the nozzle, the electrode and to improve the quality of the cut. Also in your case, since there is no contact between the nozzle and the piece to be cut, you solve the problem of losing steps in the motors. I hope it can help you.
Cool! to be honest with you, I didn't read the plasma cutter directions. But I will look into this. I would like to improve how this works. Thank you
You can set lightburn to do as many passes as you need and hit the trigger when your ready no pausing brilliant
Awesome! I still have to get better with the light burn program
I built a machine very similar to this and it works phonemical. (relay works on my machine and happy to show you what it took.)
I think your doing things the hard way on the software side of things. Fusion is an order of magnitude more powerful. Lemme know if you want a hand doing some of the more advanced stuff with it.
Cool! I wasn't sure if fusion 360 would compute over well with this setup. I am new to the CAD process which shows in my video. Im happy to take all the help i can get.
@@scantronsgarage Sure, just lemme know the best way to setup a call is.
with the order of magnitude more power comes great complexity I've found Fashion 360 exceptional for 3d modelling and machining but in the 2 d space and profile cutting i find it heaps harder to use and not more capable than on shape Lightburn Inkscape.. the way inscape can trace an image into DXF is heaps better than anything similar in fusion the way light burn has a good control interphase with the machine is also terrific things like being able to rotate the part on the table 15 degrees just before you cut .. I'm interested to know what "more powerful" from fusion is of advantage in a profile cutting arrangement.
@@incolink I'm new to this and still trying to educate through my slow learning curve. I dont have any experience in cad drawing but I am interested in working with whatever product will work for me. I only brought up fusion because I "heard" it was a good product. Thank you for your input.
@@scantronsgarage yeh i feel its a good product in the particular scenario you are making more complicated 3 d parts with more complicated machinery .But my experience (limited yes) has been in the profile cutting set ups like this other systems are easier . So to make a single profile cut part i think fusion 360 is it horrible how ever if you want to make very elaborate full sheet metal rear subframe with self jigging tounge joints you can model the entire thing is fusion make parts with folds and fit them all together then unfold them and lay them out on a sheet and profile cut them then email out a handfull of shaft and other parts .But it takes a while to learn yeh there is heaps of training stuff on you tube you just have to put the time in
You know you can remove like 70% of the torch head if this is a dedicated setup the whole trigger section right up to the head would be very easy to remove.. Also you can easily super sized this 2x 8ft rails 3x 4ft rails and like 3 belts from a china website.. You would also have to make some minor firmware settings changes to accept the huge cutting area... Im thinking about building one myself
Thats an awesome idea! Thank you! I dont know how to do the firmware part though
@@scantronsgarage It should be super easy just figure out how to do a update on it and tell it the increased bed size.. Theres a video supersized 3d printer where someone made a 1m cube printer.. Worst case you have to get the PN off of the control board and then search how to flash new firmware or updated firmware to it..
@@imridingwithstoopidohwaiti3948 Awesome! Thank you! I will look into that
It's great, but what about to cut 3/8" or maybe 1/2" gauge?
Yes it will cut it depending on the strength of your machine. The cut50 I am using will cut 3/8 no problem. You only need to slow the cut speed in the program. I am preparing to make some 3/8 suspension brackets with this machine next.
If I were you I would use onshape to design your parts. Its a free CAD that's almost exactly like solidworks, and you can export your part faces as DFX files to laser or plasma cut in lightburn.
Also I thought it was funny how you were welding with no gloves at all haha
Oh! this is good information. Thank you for sharing. I will try doing this as soon as I get some time. Thank you. And, I wear welding gloves.....sometimes : /
You can get the two pin plugs online,look for two pin CB microphone plugs, I have done this for my tig welder trigger and the foot pedal. To stop the HF interference you need a choke and a couple of ferrite beads in the trigger line.
Thanks!!! I looked up these parts. I believe your wiring skills and knowledge is much higher than mine. I wouldn't even begin to know what to do with these components unfortunately.
Gx aviation connector style
@@Evilslayer73 That is great information. thank you
I’m setting up something very similar, so very helpful video mate. One thing I can’t work out is how you compensate for the thickness of the cut in the software. I’d be using lightburn too, so any info would be great 👍🏻
In light burn, you need to just adjust the cut speed to compensate for the material thickness. I breezed over this in the video but I also have the cut speed recommendations listed in the video description for your reference. Good luck with your build and please tell me what you learn in the process so I can improve my machine. Thank you
This project occurred to me 2 months ago, but I didn't dare to start it yet. This video is a great help, thank you. But can't you make an additional video for this video so that you don't have to manually press to start the plasma cutter, but the plasma cutter starts when the laser is started by the factory machine itself?
Yes ! I hope to be able to make that update.
@@scantronsgarage I'm glad that this update is planned. I will wait for the video of it
You can use fusion360 for your designs and import them into light burn. Light burn has the worst design tools but it makes up for everything else. Also i found that if the controller box is always atleast 6 feet away from the machine it shouldn't malfunction or break.
Thank you for the information. Light Burn is certainly difficult to create with. Importing designs in sounds like an excellent idea. I also plan on moving the controller box away. You know how it is, I was too excited to try this out rather than making the additional needed changes first.
Fusion 360 screwed the hobbyists and I will never touch their product again.
I think in the long run, a low frequency plasma cutter will take a lot less workarounds and provide better reliability. Yes, they cost more, but your time is worth something too.
@@solarguy6043 Thanks for the info. . I hear that about fusion 360 now and I think I will avoid it
I am about to order the laser engraver to get this setup going in my shop. Did you get the PWM relay added to your machine yet? If so, are you able to show which one you used and how it is wired? I greatly appreciate it. Guys like you make it better for guys like me that want a cheap/simple solution to a very costly process. Thank you!
I have not made the needed upgrades needed to make this fully automated. I have been busy cutting some addition parts needed and have just been using the thumb button. The upgrades are still on my to do list
HiLetgo 2pcs 5V One Channel Relay Module Relay Switch with OPTO Isolation High Low Level Trigger set jumper to low
Is Vevor the new Mitsubishi? They making everything
It certainly seems that way
The frequencies from the plasma cuter will end up playing hell with a lot of your control wiring. You can get back to the relay if you use shielded/grounded wiring like even old cable TV wire. Also look into optocoupled switches.
Thank you for this information. I will definitely try this when I update the machine.
Yes octocoupler is the best you have no interference
Hello, what program are you using, the one where you put the picture
That program was light burn
I think you could use a 5V relay switch or a Solid State Relay connected to the board Pin that is usually used to activate the laser´s air pump, and in lightburn just check the USE AIR option. You have to find the right pins on your board, but afaik all have one by default. In the laser cutter the air is used as soon as the laser is active, so this pin should trigger at the same time and can be used to activate the plasma tool.
ooh!! this sounds like a great idea! Thank you! I will try this with my revisions to the machine. Sounds a little over my head but I will work through it.
You can use trace function to out line your part
I thought that was how I did it?
@@scantronsgarage Right click on the image and select the trace tool. Another window opens with more options. Lightburn will trace the image faster.
@@JamesBiggar That sounds way easier! thanks for the tip !
Where is the cut speed list that you said was in the comments I can't find it
It is in the information that I provided under the video not in the comments
@ 15:18 play that back in slow motion u will see the sparks blowing back right into the belt that controls the machine. That will ruin the belt and or throw off the machine over time.
Also without that. regardless how the hose for the plasma cutter is held its still way more resistance than a tiny floating laser engraving head on the hardware that moves it. Be sure to order lots of extra belts. Like your press i can defiantly see copying you in a few months but ill make darn sure i can get spare belts before i pick the brand. BTW the plasma cutter link you have is dead as of 12/23/24. awesome project
Thank you and good point. I can see how some spark shields would help to cover the belts. I still need to work out some kinks
There was a vid similar to this where simply moving the control box on the side of the laser table stopped the hf problem. Might help here Idk.
Yes thank you! That is on my list of improvements to make for this machine. I think I was just in a hurry to try it out.
I noticed the p. Cutter jumping when either the air or the p cutter was activated. You might want th include a brace to the p cutter handle. Nice work on that idea.
Thanks! I'm still working out the kinks.
hi.. did you find a solution for connecting the laser to the plasma trigger that does not cause disconnection..?
not a manual trigger..
As of yet no unfortunately. It seems I may have fried the trigger in the controller when first testing the machine. I should have shielded the wires and re located the controller prior to testing. I connected the laser head back on and this would not trigger either.
if it cuts a circle it should kick off the arc on the inside, in a waste portion, then move into the functional cut. you're getting some nasty blowout where the arc is sparking initially.
Yes. thank you, I still have some learning to do
ull probably have to run the digital Lazer signal through a arduino to trigger the tourch
Oooh! yeah Arduino is a good idea. I would have to learn more about to work with one. Thank you : )
Did you end up finding out how to mitigate the problem of High Frequency. Button is great but wont give you true automation
Not yet unfortunately. I may have fried the controller that drives the switch. I put the laser head back on and that would not trigger either. It seems I should have shielded the wires and moved the controller further away before testing the machine.
Instead of 360 try open cad it's free with a paid option but it's really easy to use to make dxf files
Nice!!! Thank you!! My free trial with light burn expired and has discouraged me from working with it. I will certainly try it! Thank you again Jonathan
Change the relay to a solid state relay and that is the solution
That is a great idea! Thank you, I will give that a try
You need a better support for your torch it put a lot of lateral force on the X axis and you gonna have a lot les stuttering and more precision .
Yes. That particular clamp allows the head to flex some
Changing wiring later? Include that, work out all the bugs, make another video. I've done these jobs before the computer became integrated into most systems, but arthritis, multiple fused joints and cataracts, I'd need a complete video beginning to end with my gaps in computer knowledge. I understood the instructions, but not the changes you spoke of making off camera, or "later." Otherwise, I got it. Good video, just a bit incomplete to someone with limited computer savvy.
Thanks!!!! I am not computer savvy either which may explain my lapse in being able to explain the process any better. I guess the idea is you gotta play around with the program a bit to get familiar with it.
As far as the wiring goes, I think the trigger switch is the way to go. It was simple and easy.
Also, I hear you with the joint pain and arthritis. My hands are starting to give up on me which is wat motivated me to make this.
@@scantronsgarage
Dang, dude, you look too young for that arthritis curse. Bone on bone ain't no fun...but we keep tryin', right?
@@monotheis6889 always do! medicine helps : )
The relay didn't worked because you used the signal of the laser cutter on the same path as the signal that went into the machine, you should have the signal coming from the laser engraver to the signal of the relay, all grounds on ground, 12v to the relay and then power to the source (plasma cutter). It may sound confusing but if you follow the diagram of the relay you might understand it a bit better.
ok. I will have another look at it.
belt and plastic rolers with plasma is at best one time use then will be fire ....... but nice project
yea... not an industrial model
Can not use a high freq start machine. Change your plasma and you will be all good
Good idea thanks!
Your perce cut has to be on the outside of the line from the projected piece that you try to make.
The bottom line as always, you get what you pay for...
oh ok. That is something I will have to work on. Thank!
Why don't you just use the trigger switch from the plasma machine? Just unhook it from the gun and get into the other machine.
Yes that is another good option
to block the EMF noise try using some ferrite magnet cores around the the wiring that you suspect. Grounding is also key and you could try using foil shielded cabling
Thank you! I considered the foil shielding but I did not even know about the ferrite magnet option. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
That same company that makes those Chinese diesel heaters to warm there shops or campers
How funny
Yea. they make about everything
Muito bom...
Thanks
Make your starts and stops in the area that will be welded and you will never see them.
That is a great tip! thank you for sharing : )
Hey, I have that same flag shirt 😂
Ha! 5 bucks at Khols LOL
Your system will never be stable. You must use double shielded cable for all wires with drain wires running to common ground, dont use usb cable to drive system (very unstable), ground everything with a common ground point, low frequency blowback cutter etc. Unfortunately with cnc Plasma systems there is no cheap and easy way to get a system stable. Hypertherm got some good info how to ground your system.
Thank you for the input. I will try to make these changes as I try to upgrade it further.
20 minute video, uploaded for 5 minutes... already thumbs up 🤔
Woo Hooo!!!! thank you much!!
7:23 😂
lol
You do not roll a plasma cutter in to the cut
I'm still learning
The plasma cuts were very sloppy. The video was good but the plasma cutting should have been perfect with no gouging of the part. The cutting should have started in the non-part.
Yes... I think this is the difference between a 300$ DIY and a 5 thousand dollar machine
Doing all the cutting with a manual trigger. Hell no
You are also dragging your torch. Be much better off with a table system with a Z axis and THC.
Thanks for the tip! And yes, that would be the way to go
No way those components are strong enough for suspension, unless you are putting them on a go cart.
Yes a big boy go cart
into music is way too loud. js
Thanks. I will note that for the future
How come you aren’t wearing gloves or sleeves to protect your skin from the harmful UV coming off of the mig arc?
I should be yes. I wear full protective gear when I'm doing big projects
There we go! I was wondering when the first safety troll woul show up. There's allways a safety critic commenting on this type of videos. Amazing!
@@fritzsmit6951 LOL!! Thanks
Rubber belts and plastic parts aren’t going to hold up long. Having used plasma for years your cut quality was really poor, the idea of using plasma is to have little to no cleanup of the parts cut. You could have done a lot better making a template and doing it by hand.
I will work on it
Got it. So buy a welder.....more money......buy metal ......... more money.......buy the plasma cutter $198 .......... buy laser engraver.........more money..........ha ha ha alot more than $300...........
Don't forget the cost of the cutting software : /
Its a PWM signal. Dummy
thanks. I am learning as I go
NICE BRO.....................
Thank you so much 😀