Why not start bead up and at the bilge use a double cove strip to switch it back? I haven’t seen anyone suggest this yet. Additionally you could use a piece of double cove scrap to put enough pressure down when using cove up method.
what I see happening is liquid glue is noncompressible inside a bead and cove that the feather edges touch the next strip but a gap exists filled completely with glue. A staple then locks the distances between strips. the glues dry and a gap not seen is formed. Latter sanding opens the gap. the deeper you sand the wider the gap. finally, it looks horrible and you want to fill it. the solution is to use so little glue it cant happen and not to use staples but to hot glue the strip to the mold and use Bungie to pull the strips together. the hot glue will creep as the Bungie moves the strip tighter to the next one. Anyway this was my solution. and it worked for me. i didn't have gaps between strips. i didn't use any filler.
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Why not start bead up and at the bilge use a double cove strip to switch it back? I haven’t seen anyone suggest this yet. Additionally you could use a piece of double cove scrap to put enough pressure down when using cove up method.
what I see happening is liquid glue is noncompressible inside a bead and cove that the feather edges touch the next strip but a gap exists filled completely with glue. A staple then locks the distances between strips. the glues dry and a gap not seen is formed. Latter sanding opens the gap. the deeper you sand the wider the gap. finally, it looks horrible and you want to fill it. the solution is to use so little glue it cant happen and not to use staples but to hot glue the strip to the mold and use Bungie to pull the strips together. the hot glue will creep as the Bungie moves the strip tighter to the next one. Anyway this was my solution. and it worked for me. i didn't have gaps between strips. i didn't use any filler.
TY